Читать книгу Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 2 - Central and Eastern Alps - Bill O'Connor - Страница 10
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
For most English-speaking skiers, there is probably only one high-level route – that between Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, often called the Haute Route. Most people are astonished to learn that long before it was skied in 1911, it was a recognised high-level hike established by members of the Alpine Club as a relatively quick, high-level crossing between the bourgeoning villages of Zermatt and Chamonix. They called it the High Level Road. Today, this route between Chamonix and Zermatt is arguably the most famous and sought-after ski tour in the world. It may therefore come as a surprise to many that regard it as the one and only Haute Route that there are in fact a whole host of outstanding high-level routes throughout the Alps.
Traversing the summit ridge of the Mittaghorn – the Aletschhorn is the peak beyond, with the Hasler Rib well defined on the left
In reality, the Alps are criss-crossed with stunning ski tours, many of which have gained a classic status. It is difficult to define what ‘classic’ means. It is certainly more than a matter of being popular. The skiing on a classic tour should, in my opinion, demand a range of skiing and mountaineering skills, call for good navigation, and be challenging but nevertheless remain logical as a ski tour. The need to carry skis should be an occasional and logical necessity, whilst the prospect of some outstanding downhill must be high. Once completed, a classic tour should leave you with a better understanding of an area's physical geography, and above all it should be an enjoyable journey. Each tour in this book is arguably the best of its kind and standard in a particular mountain area and epitomises what is best about ski mountaineering in that region.
The tours in this guide cover significant part of the Northern as well as the Central and Eastern Alps. They range across Alpine Switzerland from its north-west corner to its south-east tip, from Vaud to Graübunden, before sliding east, following the vast arc of the Alps into the Austrian Tyrol and South Tyrol of north Italy.
The mountains beyond Mont Blanc and the Pennine Alps trending eastwards tend, with the exception of Bernina, to be regarded by many climbers as less serious and more benign, with lesser climbs and smaller glaciers. It is true that to the east of the Urner Alps and the Rhöne/Rhine watershed there is only a single outlying 4000m peak, Piz Bernina. It is true that there are no glaciers that compare in length with the Grosser Aletsch or Mont Blanc's ice streams, but it would be wrong to underestimate these areas when it comes to skiing. In many respects, what they lack in size and fame (compared to, say, Mont Blanc and other regions of the Western Alps), they make up for in terms of their suitability for ski mountaineering. In this matter, they are equal in every respect to the Western Alps.
All the tours described in this guide are in areas that bristle with 3000m peaks, glaciers and extensive permanent snowfields. In fact, these are the very things they all have in common. The Central and Eastern Alps also have an enviable snow record, and in many instances can offer ski touring when other areas are waiting for better snow cover to fill crevasses and make travel on dangerous glaciers possible. This is especially true of the Western Bernese region along with the Urner and Albula Alps.
Within the two volumes of this guide are included some of the finest, most accessible Alpine ski tours in the world – only available, of course, to the complete mountaineer. None of the routes is extreme, although the conditions can be, and it's then that mountaineering judgement and sound decisions are all important. You do need to plan and prepare properly for these tours if you are to succeed.
The selection covers tours in the most important Alpine regions. They are also varied in length and difficulty, although most fit within a full week's touring. Of course, if poor weather or conditions prevail they can take a lot longer! The routes also include a mix of ‘circular’ tours, which are convenient for those wishing to leave car or equipment in one place, and ‘linear’ routes that journey hut to hut, even from country to country. These usually require a little more organisation with regard to logistics, travel and packing.
Crossing Konkordiaplatz at dawn with the sun appearing over the Grünhornlücke
The routes described are all Alpine – in other words, they require both skiing and mountaineering skills. While technical climbing ability of a high standard is not essential, the skills required to operate on steep slopes and glacier terrain, where cramponing, ropework and crevasse rescue may be necessary, are essential for safety, as are navigational skills. It goes without saying that avalanche awareness skills and knowledge are vitally important for everyone who intends to ski mountaineer.
Using this Guidebook
Each tour section in this book follows the same pattern.
An introduction provides a little about the mountaineering history of the area and gives some background on both the Alpine area and the tour itself.
To help simplify planning the following information is given at the start of each tour:
start
finish
duration
location
difficulty
best time for the tour
facilities (accommodation and supplies)
access
maps.
This is followed by route summary, detailing the key place names found on the map for each stage of the route. This is useful for plotting the route when used in conjunction with the recommended 1:25,000 maps.
The itinerary for each tour is broken down into recommended day stages. Each stage begins by giving details of:
ascent
descent
principal aspect
difficulty
time.
This is followed by a description of the day's stage. Describing a ski route is very different from describing summer climbs or walking routes. In summer, paths and features are clear and often waymarked. During the ski season many features including way-markings, outcrops, streams and paths will be buried under snow. Therefore ski-route descriptions are less prescriptive – snow conditions and ability will often decide the precise line of ascent or descent. Some routes are obviously determined by the terrain – say when it follows a valley, ridge or couloir – but the precise line will always be a matter of judgement or of following old tracks! When crossing untracked snow, the skier will have to call on skill and judgement to find the best line through crevasses or to make the most efficient and safest track on a snow-laden slope. Even if you know an area in summer, don't assume the ski track will follow the same route. Although maps and route descriptions can indicate crevasses, their precise position changes with the movement of the ice. At all times the ski mountaineer must be willing to make a judgement about route choice and snow stability – no guidebook can do that. One of the great things about ski touring is, no matter how popular the tour, after new snow you will always have a clean sheet to work with. At all times the ski mountaineer must be observant, paying particular attention to the critical factors of weather, terrain and snow conditions before committing to a specific route.
Details of the routes are summarised in a table at the end of the book.
Route-finding
The length and difficulty of a day stage as given in the guide can be changed. You may think the day too short or the ascent of a particular peak too demanding. With a little care it is always possible to alter the route to suit your needs and the prevailing conditions to ensure the safest route.
If you decide not to follow the route exactly as described in the guide, you may be tempted to follow an existing ski track not yet filled in by fresh or windblown snow. Before following it, however, be in no doubt that the track is leading where you want to go. Many a skier has followed a trail carelessly only to arrive at the wrong col or summit! As a skier you have the option of making fresh tracks, both in ascent and descent, especially if the track in place takes a bad line or climbs inefficiently. It is satisfying to look back at a well-made track and know it is your own. On the descent, if too many tracks have trashed a fine slope it may be possible to make new ones, thus giving you the satisfaction of looking back at a set of cleanly carved turns – or not. Of course there is wisdom in following an established track through difficult terrain, say on a crevassed glacier or after heavy snowfall.
Planning before setting off on tour
Maps and Diagrams
Accompanying each route description is a route profile, a diagram giving a clear indication of the ups and downs involved in each day's touring. Combined with the sketch map and description this should provide a useful impression of the rhythm of the day's stage.
The sketch maps of each tour will allow you to plan your route in conjunction with the route description and the recommended 1:25,000 or 1:50,000 maps. The sketch maps indicate cols, glaciers and significant spot heights mentioned in the text. They are not intended as a substitute for the recommended maps. They provide an indication of the route only.
For each tour a particular map or set of maps is recommended. Unfortunately several of the tours require numerous maps. Ideally use those at 1:25,000 scale. The Swiss, in conjunction with their National Ski Federation, have produced special ski maps at 1:50,000 scale. These have ski routes marked and also have a wealth of information about routes printed on the back of the map. These are very useful. For general planning 1:100,000 scale maps are recommended. Although useless for navigation, unless you are in a car, they are ideal for plotting the route and getting a feeling for the areas surrounding a given tour.
Huts and Other Useful Contacts
A list of addresses and telephone numbers for each tour, including the telephone numbers of the Alpine huts mentioned in the route, is given in Appendix 3. Specific details about huts have been included in the tour description where necessary. Also given at the end of each tour is contact information for tourist offices, police, rescue services and weather information.
On Tour
Always take time to consider the weather conditions, not just on the day you start but over the days and weeks before your tour. They will have an effect on the snowpack and your safety. The snowpack will, in turn, affect the difficulty of the route, the time a stage takes and the dangers that exist. No guidebook can cover all the variables. The descriptions are based on known routes done in stable conditions. Just occasionally conditions for a tour will be idyllic: perfect snow, few crevasses and a track in place, all of which will make for a direct route and a fast time. Much more likely is a varied mix of good and unskiable snow, blue sky and bad visibility, as well as easy or complex crevasse systems to negotiate. The key is to expect the unexpected and allow yourself time to deal with problems.
Remember, if you can't see the slope ahead, be it an icefall, cliff, couloir or valley, it is all but impossible to make an informed judgement about the dangers you face or to ski it safely. In these conditions the best option may well be to stay put in the hut, read a book or practise a few rope skills nearby.
Times and Conditions
The time given in the guide for any particular stage is an average one for a party of reasonably fit skiers moving steadily and climbing at around 300m per hour. Where appropriate they provide generous timings, rather than assuming a fast pace. The times given cannot take into account problems arising from poor fitness, skiing ability, navigation or conditions. In the unlikely event that any of these apply to your party you will need to adjust the tour accordingly.
If you arrive at the Alps tired after travelling, and with no acclimatisation, the first few days may well feel tough. If you haven't toured for a year your equipment may feel unfamiliar – and like your legs might not work very well! As a friend of mine says: ‘Don't let your enthusiasm make appointments your legs and lungs can't keep!’
Once on tour most skiers find they acclimatise quickly and become more efficient and familiar with their kit. It takes a while to fall into the delightful rhythm of skinning, carrying a rucksack and, of course, hut life. After a while you are likely to find that the times given in the guide seem more generous. However, that's as it should be. Remember, having time in hand means having a safety margin should problems arise.
By late spring, when the days lengthen, it is normal to arrive back at the huts in the early afternoon with plenty of daylight left. It can feel as if half the day has been wasted. In fact it is often the case that the snow by then is too soft or dangerous for enjoyable skiing. You can always spend the afternoon doing a transceiver search or crevasse rescue.
Remember, weather and snow can change rapidly on tour. A slope on which a party an hour or so ahead of you were able to make perfect linked turns may have become a nightmare by the time you come to descend it. It pays to plan ahead and think about slope aspect, weather conditions and timing.
Start Times
These vary throughout the season for the same route and will depend on a mixture of things: touring objective, party fitness, snow, weather conditions and, of course, the whim of the hut guardian. Most Alpine huts have a set breakfast period during the ski-touring season. Find this out from the guardian on arrival at the hut and plan accordingly. If you want to leave early let the guardian know. If you are lucky he might put a flask and some food out for you. On popular tours like the Haute Route you will invariably be involved in a massed start in the morning, which is all but impossible to avoid. Once underway in the morning groups quickly disperse, invariably coming together at bottlenecks such as steep climbs or abseil descents. If you want to get away quickly in the morning you need to get packed and organised the night before and get down to breakfast quickly!
Route-Finding and Navigation
It goes without saying that a 1:25,000 scale map, compass and altimeter, and the ability to use them, are essential for accurate navigation when ski touring. More and more skiers are using a Global Positioning System (GPS), and many maps provide a useful table of GPS co-ordinates to help plot waymarks quickly. Of course all maps have a grid system. Whatever tools you have, make sure you are skilful in using them. It is also advisable to spend time studying the map – mental rehearsal combined with map memory is a great benefit once skiing.
Altimeter
When skiing it is unusual to be able follow a direct compass bearing. Occasionally, on a well-covered glacier such as the Grosser Aletsch, it is possible, but normally crevasses have to be avoided and turns are essential. An altimeter when skiing is an indispensable piece of equipment for accurate navigation in poor visibility. Wristwatch-style altimeters that can be worn outside a jacket are particularly useful. They can be referred to whilst on the move without loss of time or rhythm. Trying to gauge your speed of descent when skiing in poor visibility is all but impossible. An altimeter will save the day and give your altitude, if not your exact position, on a particular slope. In addition, they act as a barometer, indicating pressure variation and therefore potential changes in the weather.
GPS
Global Positioning Systems are increasingly being used by skiers. They are not a substitute for good navigation, which is as much about good judgement and route choice as simply about knowing where you are. However, when combined with sound navigational skill they are very useful, and very reassuring in white-out conditions.
Drying out boots and skins on the terrace of the Konkordia Hut
The Alpine Hut System
One of the benefits of skiing in the Alps is the extensive chain of mountain huts available there. The building of huts began early in the history of Alpinism, and they serve us well. Above all they make it possible to enjoy extensive ski touring without the need to carry heavy camping, cooking and sleeping equipment, and food; the combined weight of which, for a long tour, would make touring unbearable, if not impossible, for many skiers. Alpine Huts have been built and are owned by various national Alpine clubs – namely the Swiss Alpine Club (CAS), French Alpine Club (CAF), Italian Alpine Club (CAI), Austrian Alpine Club (AAV) and German Alpine Club (DAV). Non-Alpine countries have contributed financially to some. There are also a growing number of private huts.
The huts are open to everyone, and usually offer mixed dormitory-style accommodation. Members of an Alpine club or organisations affiliated to the UIAA (International Union of Alpine Associations) may have reciprocal rights giving them discounted bed-nights at most huts. Non-members simply pay a little more. The huts currently represent very good value for money. Most huts are open during the main season, usually mid-March until the end of April or May, during which time a hut warden is resident who provides meals and advice.
There are huts and then there are bivi huts – just remember to close the door when you leave
Winter Rooms
Not all huts are open or guarded during the ski season. Those that are not usually have a ‘winter-room’ that is left open. This is usually quite a small space, with bunks and blankets, a stove and wood for fuel, although a few have gas stoves and a limited supply of utensils. They can have a great atmosphere, although most are pretty cold. To be on the safe side, I normally carry a stove and fuel when I'm using winter rooms, just in case I arrive at the end of a busy period and the fuel has run out.
Payment in Unguarded Huts
There is an honesty-box system for payment. Envelopes and a safe-box will be found on the wall inside the hut – fill in your details on the envelope and deposit your money in it inside the safe-box.
Hut Etiquette
If you use the winter room, remember to leave it tidy, fold all blankets and close all shutters and doors. There's nothing more depressing after a hard day's touring than to find the doors or windows open and the winter room full of snow and the blankets wet. If you decide to leave food for others to use, make sure it's sealed; don't leave half-used scraps that can go rotten. I've certainly been grateful in the past to find spare tea bags or packet of soup powder available.
Booking the Huts
It is recommended that you book your place at the hut in advance; this allows the guardian to plan meals and accommodation properly and thus avoid gross overcrowding. Failure to do so can make for watery soup and worse! Guardians make a great effort to find everyone a place; you will rarely be turned away. However, some huts get very busy during the holidays, particularly over Easter on the more famous haute routes. If you change your plans, let the guardian know so that your place can be made available to others. Guardians, if they are expecting you, may also be concerned about your non-arrival if you have failed to cancel your booking. Many skiers also phone ahead let the guardian know they are on their way. Most huts have radio-telephones, which you can use.
Meals
Many huts offer a near restaurant-style service throughout the day, although both the breakfast and evening meal are normally set menus. Food at huts is not discounted to members of any Alpine club. Vegetarians should make a point of informing the guardian before (or when) they arrive at the hut as meat is the norm. Vegetarian options are limited – eggs, cheese and pasta head the list. Breakfast remains light in most huts, some say slight. It is certainly traditional: tea, coffee or hot chocolate with bread, butter, jam and sometimes a little cheese. A few huts have improved their breakfast offering by providing cereal and yoghurt.
Most huts sell sweets, chocolates and a small selection of food items. Some will provide a simple packed lunch. However, if you need a packed lunch be sure to order it the night before and not during the morning rush.
Some huts allow self-catering, but you normally have to provide (which means carry) your own stove, fuel and utensils. Guardians will also cook simple food such as pasta and soup for you, charging a fee to do so. Understandably, they don't always like doing it, especially if the hut is crowded.
Water
Water is an obvious problem during the ski season. There is plenty of snow and ice, but hopefully it will remain frozen, which means that running water will be in short supply. Hut water supplies have to be melted from snow and ice, or in some cases helicoptered to the huts. It comes as a surprise to many hut users that water has to be paid for, and that during the ski season very few have running water for washing or lavatories. Be prepared to buy bottled water or to have hot water or tea in your drinking bottle in the morning. Some guardians fill water bottles the evening before so that they can cool before morning. It's not uncommon to see them being taken to bed to serve as a hot-water bottle!
Basic Advice for Hut Virgins
For the first-time visitor a busy Alpine hut can seem a bit daunting. However, once you have stayed in one and survived the system you will quickly get the hang of it. The organisation of the huts is basically the same through-out the Alps, although there are a few guardians who introduce idiosyncratic and novel variations.
Arriving at the Martin Busch Hut having traversed from the Hochwildehaus, Ötztal
Boot room
When you arrive, there is usually an ante-room to leave boots and rucksacks, skis and hardware such as axe and crampons. Try, if you are part of a large group, to keep your equipment organised and in one place. The same goes for ski boots – in the early hours of the morning it's easy to have a mix-up and find someone else wearing your plastic shells. It's a good idea to write your name on the plastic shell to help prevent mistakes. Most huts supply some kind of rubber hut shoe for you to use, but that's not always the case.
Book in on arrival
Once you have got your boots off, go to reception and book in officially. You will be asked to show (and perhaps deposit) your Alpine Club or reciprocal-rights card, if you have one. This is the time to let the guardian know if you are a vegetarian, and for you to ask about meal times and filling water bottles. Tell him your plans for the morning. At this time you will probably be given a room and bed number/slot.
Sleeping quarters
Some huts have bunks, and others have a matrazenlager – usually mattresses laid side by side on large bunk beds. Close-quarter sleeping is usually the order of the day. At busy times, expect to double up! You will normally get a pillow and a couple of rough wool blankets – of an uncertain age but invariably with a certain aroma. My wife describes it as blend of wet Labrador and men's locker-room. It's a good idea to carry a lightweight (silk) sleeping-bag liner; it is certainly more comfortable and hygienic, and many Austrian huts insist on you using one. A few huts have gone over to duvets, and they are certainly an improvement.
It's a good idea to make up your bed as soon as possible. You may be allowed to take your rucksack into the dormitory. Failing that there are often baskets available so that you can unpack your rucksack and keep essential items handy inside the hut. During the touring season breakfast is usually at a set hour, and it is normal to be woken by the guardian; in any case, set your alarm. You are expected to fold your blankets and leave your space as you found it.
Meals
Evening meals are normally served between 6 and 8pm. Food is usually brought to the table, and you serve it out with the others on the table. Evening meals are usually three courses: soup, a meat and veg/pasta dish, followed by a simple desert. You can buy wine, beer and other drinks at most huts, but it's better to get them before dinner is served, as the kitchen often gets frantic at meal times. At the end of the meal, you are expected to take your dishes back to the serving hatch to be cleaned. There is usually a bowl of water and cloth provided to wipe down the table after you have finished. In Austrian huts you have a choice of a simple, filling set meal, bergsteigeressen, which is quite inexpensive, or you can chose something more elaborate and expensive.
Breakfast is usually a bit of a rush, so you would be advised to organise yourself the night before. You will normally get a hot drink, bread, butter and jam, and in some huts cereal and juice.
Departure
Some huts like you to pay up the night before. Certainly if you want a quick start, it is a good idea. Remember to collect your club/reciprocal rights card if you were asked to deposit it and to ensure you have a full water bottle before you leave the hut.
Avalanche Awareness
When people and snowy mountains meet the potential for avalanches exists. Every skier should make it their business to understand avalanche phenomena. They are not an act of God; in fact about 80% of avalanche victims trigger the avalanche they get caught in.
Avalanche awareness – you have been warned
During a ski tour the risk of avalanche is a constant danger that must be faced whenever your skis are on the mountain. Assessing risk ultimately depends on your knowledge and the care you take in assessing the danger. The process doesn't need to be a lengthy one that will spoil a good day on the hill, but it does need to be a systematic one, both before and during a tour. A systematic approach will enable you to gather key information that will allow you to make an informed judgement about snow stability and avalanche hazard.
On tour, assessment of avalanche danger should be gained from gathering observed facts about the terrain, the snowpack, past and present weather, and from slope stability tests.
Ask yourself these questions:
What information do I have that makes me think this slope is stable?
What is the likely outcome for our group should the slope avalanche?
Do we have an agreed emergency proceedure in place if it does?
First, the good news is that, if the victim is alive after the initial impact, they have an 80% chance of survival if dug out in the first 12 minutes. But after that the news is not so good. It is thought that unless recovery is made within 30 minutes, an avalanche victim's chances of survival are less than 50/50.
The fact is that less than one-third of those buried survive, and this doesn't refer to deep burial. For those buried under less than 50cm of snow the survival rate is around 45%. At more than 2 metres only 1% survive, and below 3 metres…?
Best Practice
It is ‘best practice’ to:
avoid obvious avalanche danger
adopt safe procedures when travelling and, in the event of an avalanche, not to rely on others outside your group for rescue.
Rescue, if it is to be successful, must come from your own party, and speed is the all-important factor. Speed comes from planning, preparation and practice.
THE HARD FACTS
Here are some hard avalanche facts based on Swiss statistics.
Of skiers completely buried by an avalanche only 4 in 10 survive.
Over a recent period 1347 people were known to have survived partial or complete burial by avalanche. Of these:39% dug themselves out34% were dug out by survivors on the scene27% were recovered by rescue teams – but most of these were near ski resorts.
In that same period close to 1000 died – two-thirds by suffocation.
The Three Essentials
To maximise speed of rescue there are three ‘must have’ bits of equipment for every off-piste skier and ski tourer.
Transceiver – Owning one will not stop you getting caught in an avalanche, but if you are buried it is almost your only hope of being found – dead or alive. A transceiver is not a substitute for good practice, it is part of it. Route planning, route choice and constant avalanche awareness are the basic ways to minimise risk.
Every skier going off-piste or touring should have a transceiver. However, it is not enough to own one: you must wear it and know how to use it in an emergency. That skill only comes from practice, regular and realistic practice against the clock – remember the first 12–15 minutes are all-important. Get into the habit of turning your transceiver on when you put it on in the morning and leaving it on until you return in the evening. Never turn your transceiver off during the day to save the battery. It is all too easy to forget to turn it on again.
Having turned your transceiver on make sure you carry out a transceiver check both on leaving the hut and at other times during the day, especially after rest stops. Rather than standing around in a huddle and checking transceivers work when you are standing next to each other, get one person to ski away (say 30m) from the group with their transceiver in receive mode. Then one at a time the group members with their transceivers in transmit mode ski towards the person on receive. As soon as the person receiving picks up a signal they should signify it. This gives a good indication of signal strength, which seems to vary amongst different makes of transceiver. Someone should then check that the person on receive is also transmitting correctly. Everyone should carry spare batteries on a long tour.
Digging a snow pit and looking for weaknesses in the profile
Snow shovel – It is not enough to have one or two shovels in a group of four or six skiers. Everyone should carry an avalanche shovel. One reason why I like touring with North American clients is the size of their shovels! They carry big metal-bladed things that can shift snow fast, not flimsy things the size of desert spoons. This really is a case of size being important. Don't bother with tiny blades that attach to ice axes or ski poles that bend the moment they come into contact with hard snow. If you were buried what would you want your rescuers to use? A JCB!
Avalanche probe – Used in conjunction with a transceiver avalanche probes can quickly establish the exact position of a body before initial digging. For a final search or deep burial they are a must.
They are also useful for testing the snow structure by probing rather than digging once you know the snow profile on a given aspect. This can be particularly useful when on the move.
But it is not enough simply to carry these essentail tools, you have to know how to use them in an emergency. Practise regularly.
Assessing Snow Stability
Reusch block test
There is a lot you can do to assess snow stability before you go on tour. Snowpack is the result of past snowfall and weather conditions, and you need this information to understand how it has built up. Weather reports, avalanche bulletins (see the Avalanche Bulletins box below) and web sites provide an often detailed picture of what conditions have been and are now like on the hill. Tourist Offices and Guides Bureaus, as well as knowledgeable locals, can all provide additional information.
Once on tour you need to evaluate snow stability constantly because the slope aspect, altitude and conditions are always changing. To some degree ski mountaineers gain a feel for slope angle, snow and conditions – it's called experience. I find it helps to have a procedure when evaluating snow stability. Aim to gather targeted information that will help you build up an informed picture. Eliminate unessential information and go straight for the bull's-eye.
Above is a checklist for assessing snow stability similar to those used by British mountain guides and avalanche professionals around the world. I'm always surprised how easy it is to overlook obvious signs of both danger and stability. The checklist is useful as an aide-mémoire to help systematically observe, test and record pertinent information and so build up a profile of snow stability at a particular time and place. This information provides a more complete picture when the time comes to make a judgement about avalanche danger.
Obviously some techniques here depend on knowledge and skill. Snow profiling and various stability tests, including the shovel shear test and Reusch blocks, although quickly learned, require training in interpretation. Anyone committed to ski mountaineering would be well advised to attend some kind of avalanche awareness training course where they can learn these skills.
Crown wall over 2m high across a slope regularly traversed by ski-touring parties
Stability tests need to be carried out regularly. Although they can seem like a chore they do not take a great deal of time and they provide essential information. Once armed with the information in the chart above the picture of snow stability becomes a lot clearer. It may not be perfect, but it is better than a piece of seaweed or the ‘It must be stable because someone else has skied it’ approach to avalanche risk assessment.
Having made an assessment you can then modify your route or procedures on tour to maximise safety.
AVALANCHE BULLETINS
There is a wide range of information that can be accessed via telephone, fax and the internet during the ski season. The following list covers the major Alpine areas described in this book and will help you gather information before and during a tour.
France
Telephone: Dial International Code (0033) followed by 89 26 81 020 and the department number:
| Haute Savoie | 74 |
| Savoi | 73 |
| Isere | 38 |
| Hautes-Alpes | 05 |
| Alpes Haute-Provence | 05 or 06 |
| Alpes Maritime | 06 |
Website: www.meteo.fr/temps/france/avalanches
Italy
Telephone: Dial International Code (0039) followed by (0461) 23 00 30. When phoning from outside Italy leave the 0 off the number in brackets:
| Valle d'Aosta | www.regione.vda.it/bollnivometeo.nsf | (0165) 77 63 00 |
| Piedmonte | www.regione.piemonte.it/meteo.neve.htm | (011) 318 55 55 |
| Trentino | www.provincia.tn.it/csvdi.bolletino | (0461) 23 89 39 |
| South Tirol | www.provincia.bz.it/valanghe | (0471) 27 11 77 |
| Lombardia | www.regione.lombardia.itmeteonew.nsf/home/valanghe | (0478) 370 77 |
| Veneto | www.arpa.veneteo.it/csvvdi/bolletino | (0436) 79221 |
| Friuli-Venezia Giulia | www.regione.fvg.it/meteo/valanghe.htm | 800 860 377 |
| Meteomont service | www.meteomont.sail.it/meteo/neve/htm |
Austria
Telephone: Dial International Code (0043) followed by the number below.
| Voralberg | www.voralberg.at/lawine | (05522) 1588 |
| Salzburg | www.land-sbg.gv.at/lawinen | (0622) 1588 |
| Oberosterreich | www.ooe.gv.at/lawinenwarndienst/ | (0732) 1588 |
| Tirol | www.larwine.at/tirol | (0512) 1588 |
| Osttirol | www.larwine.at/tirol | (0512) 1588 |
| Steiermark | www.larwine.at | (0316) 1588 |
| Karnten | www.larwine.at | (0463) 1588 |
Switzerland
Dial International Code (0041) followed by number below.
| All regions | www.slf.ch/avalanche/avalanche-de.html | |
| www.slf.ch/avalanche/avalanche-fr.html | ||
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KEY POINTS IN AVALANCHE AWARENESS
Understand what causes avalanches, and learn to recognise, test and record these causes.
Understand weather and find out about past, present and future conditions that have and are likely to influence snow stability. Snowfall, wind and temperature all influence avalanche risk.
Appreciate the significance of slope angle and aspect to avalanche risk. Slopes between 25° and 40° are perfect for skiing on, but they also present the greatest risk.
Be observant. Conditions on tour change fast not only from day to day but from one slope to another and even on the same slope. Look for indicators of instability.
Ensure you are properly equipped and clothed, and that equipment is all in good working order.
Ensure you are prepared for emergencies and have a fast and efficient procedure in place to deal with them.
Choose your route with care, and avoid suspect slopes. Be prepared to change or abandon your route. Be aware of the danger presented by slopes above and below the one you are on.
If you have to travel through high-risk terrain do so with care. Be prepared at all times, make everyone aware of the risks and ensure they know what's expected of them in the event of an avalanche.
Organise your party for maximum safety. If possible let people know your route. On hut-to-hut tours this is relatively easy, as you move between huts and guardians are expecting you. If you change your plan let the guardian know. Don't simply fail to turn up at a hut where you have booked a place.
European Avalanche Hazard Scale
The European Avalanche Hazard Scale has been adopted throughout the Alps and is commonly used in conjunction with snow and avalanche reports. Often the degree of hazard existing at a given time is shown simply as level on a scale of 1–5 without further explanation. Understanding what the numbers mean is essential when weather reports are in a language you may not fully understand, but where a synoptic chart clearly indicates the level of hazard. The chart below provides a detailed explanation of the European Avalanche Hazard Scale.
Avalanche Accidents
What do you do if you get caught in an avalanche? The fact is that once an avalanche has been triggered, unless it really is minor it is almost impossible to do anything. Things happen very fast, and you need a fair amount of luck if you are caught in one. Call out to alert your companions and try to outrun it or ski off to the side of the avalanche if possible.
If you are caught:
try to release your bindings
release your ski poles
try to stay on top of the snow by adopting a swimming or rolling motion
before you are buried pull your knees up to your chest and cover your face in an attempt to create an air pocket
if you can thrust a hand up and out of the snow do so
try not to panic
pray.
If you are looking on:
keep an eye on the victim/s for as long as possible
point and follow the victim with your finger until they are buried – it's easy to lose track of them in a mass of moving snow
keep pointing until the position can be marked with a ski pole. This will speed up the search.
The Search
Appoint a search leader.
Stay calm.
Assess the whole situation and ensure the safety of the rest of the party. Visually scour the avalanche to see if you can see the victim/s – they may re-emerge lower down the slope. They may only be partially buried, in which case there's no need to instigate a transceiver search.
Organise the search based on observed facts, number buried, vanishing points and terrain.
Begin the search as soon as possible. Eyes and ears as well as transceivers should be used.
Switch off transceivers not in use if it is safe to do so.
Maintain a controlled search pattern. Don't give up – despite the statistics victims have been recovered alive after very long periods of burial. Ensure a total and thorough search of the area. The victim may not be in the obvious deposition zone.
Alert rescue services. They may be needed to evacuate victims, give medical help or search.
Immediate Response to Victims
Adequate primary care requires correct training in first aid. Ideally everyone should have this.
Free the head and chest of the buried victim as soon as possible.
Ensure they can and are breathing.
If not give artificial respiration (CPR). Continue resuscitation until medical help arrives.
Lay the person down correctly.
Treat injuries where possible.
Protect from further loss of body heat.
Continue to observe the victim for any change in status.
Evacuate to safety if required.
Helicopter Rescue
If there is an accident on tour that requires rescue assistance, helicopter is the recommended option. When someone is injured speed and safety are paramount. Trying to carry out self-rescue with an improvised stretcher, especially over difficult terrain, is complicated and slow, and may well result in further injury. It is important to know how to carry out such a rescue and be proficient at it, but it is not the best option when helicopter rescue is possible.
Helicopters have their limits, however, and require safe conditions to carry out a rescue. Poor weather conditions will restrict their safe operational use. In poor visibility, strong winds, and in snowy or icy conditions they may not be able to operate. However, the pilots of rescue helicopters carry out some remarkable missions. They should only be called in for an emergency or forced evacuation – do not endanger their lives unecessarily.
Insurance
Signalling to a helicopter: note the skier is kneeling in front of a large flat area, back to the wind, with arms raised in a Y
The cost of emergency rescue, medical treatment, and repatriation, if necessary, varies from country to country, and you will need appropriate insurance to ensure that you are adequately covered. The BMC (Tel. 0161 445 4747, www.thebmc.co.uk) and AAC (Tel. 01707 324835, www.hbinsurance.co.uk) both provide travel insurance: make sure it covers ski mountaineering, not simply piste skiing.
What Information Do Rescuers Require?
If possible write down your message before calling for rescue. The information you give needs to be accurate, precise and concise, and writing it down will ensure this. It should include:
name of person in charge/communicating with rescue base
your position with grid reference
your telephone number if phoning from a mobile
number of people involved
the name of the person/s injured
the nature of the accident/injuries
specific casualty requirements if known
weather conditions at the site of the accident, including wind speed, visibility, cloud level, precipitation, etc
information on whether a helicopter landing at the site is possible.
Safety Procedures on the Ground
Never approach the helicopter when the rotor blade is moving.
Do not approach the helicopter until told to do so by a member of the crew.
Stay low or in a kneeling position with your back to the wind.
Only approach the helicopter in the direction indicated by the pilot or crew member. It is usual to kneel up-wind, head on to the helicopter.
Never approach from the rear of the machine or out of sight of the crew.
Ensure that there is no loose equipment or clothing on the ground or on the person/s close to the helicopter.
The diagram above shows the ideal layout of the rescue site and the arm signals used to communicate with a helicopter.
In the mountains it is difficult to ensure flat ground. Remember a helicopter cannot land on steep slopes. It is important to stay below the pick-up area if the rescue is on a slope, since the helicopter may have to hover and winch the casualty aboard. The rotor blades may come very close to the slope above the rescue, so stay out of this zone. Stay below it and kneel.
Once inside the helicopter enjoy the view because it will be an expensive ride. Helicopter rescue is costly, so it is essential to have adequate insurance cover.
A Safety Strategy for Ski Mountaineering
As a mountain guide my own approach to safety is best summed up as the application of the three Ps: planning, preparation and practice. This may not be rocket science, but it is certainly a combination of science, common sense and experience, which translates quite simply into ‘best practice’.
Common Errors
Mountains can be dangerous – in winter and spring particularly so. But one of the great pleasures derived from ski mountaineering is the ability to journey safely over Alpine terrain that would be all but impossible without skis. Ski mountaineering accidents, alas, are all too frequent, with avalanches accounting for a high number of fatalities. By looking at the accident reports it is possible to identify a number of common errors (see box below). Hopefully we can learn from these.
COMMON ERRORS
Wrong stability evaluation – in one study, over a five-year period, over 60% of avalanche fatalities were the result of wrong stability evaluation.
Triggering the avalanche – most skiers caught in avalanches triggered the avalanche themselves.
Taking uneccesary risks – in particular being on the wrong terrain and discounting evidence of snow instability that was contrary to what the skiers wanted to believe.
Avalanching other members of the same group by triggering a slope above others.
Failure to snow profile – weak layers that were easily triggered went undetected.
Failure to identify dangerous accumulations of wind slab or appreciate the importance of past weather conditions.
Triggering a small avalanche which in turn triggers a major slope failure. Failing to realise that in a snowpack of medium hardness large avalanches may occur.
Triggering spontaneous and rapid release on sun-exposed slopes.
Triggering a release from couloirs after small changes in temperature, wind or sun angle.
Underestimating the power of a small slide – even small avalanches kill 42% of their victims.
Planning and Preparation for your Ski Tour
There area lots of things you can do before a tour to help make it successful. Pre-trip planning is like a reconnaissance, and time spent on it is rarely if ever wasted. A simple checklist which could form the basis of a pre-trip stategy is given in the box below.
Once on tour it is important to remain alert, and there are many simple procedures that will make travel more efficient and improve group safety. A simple checklist will help you, but ultimately only practice will ensure that these procedures become second nature in the mountains.
Safety Strategy on Tour
A list of procedures that comprise a safety strategy is given in the box below. There is no sequential order to these procedures – they are ongoing and invariably overlap. The important thing is that they are understood and done. Use the box as a checklist.
There are other aspects of safety that relate to group organisation (see box on Group Organisation below).
PREPARING FOR YOUR SKI TOUR
| Objective | Decide on the route/ski tour/mountain |
| Gather sources of information | Guidebooks, maps, articles and photographs all help build a mental picture of the tour. Tourist and Guides Offices are also sources of information. |
| Determine the terrain | Understand the terrain/slope angle. Is it rocky, glaciated, steep, couloir, forested, populated? Studying the terrain allows you to pre-empt problems. |
| Is it a known route or exploration? | Study the map carefully. Identify difficulties. Pre-empt problems. Don't assume a summer route is also the ski route. |
| How difficult is the tour likely to be? | Identify the specific difficulties/dangers. Does your party have the skill and fitness to handle the challenges? |
| Be properly equiped | What equipment is required for individuals and the group? Do you have it and can you use it? Can you repair it in an emergency? |
| Season and conditions | When is the best time of year for the tour? What effect will elevation and slope aspect have? How will these affect timing on the route? Being in the right place at the right time is often critical. |
| Weather/snow conditions – past, present and future | What have past weather conditions been? How have factors such as wind, precipitation and temperature affected the snow pack? What are the present conditions and what is forecast for the future? |
| Know what causes avalanches | Put snow and slopes together and the potential for avalanches exists. Learn about avalanche phenomena and the factors that contribute to avalanches. |
| Snow stability | How will poor weather and snow stability affect your options? Will you have route options or are you committed? Gather information about the snowpack from Guides offices, pisteurs, avalanche bulletins, personal tests. |
| Huts | Are there huts and are they open/wardened? If not, is the tour viable? Book accommodation in advance. |
| Contingency plans | What escape routes are possible once on tour? What alternatives exist in poor weather or dangerous snow conditions? |
| Emergency proceedures | Have information and a procedure in place relative to area of operation. Communications. Allow for the unexpected. |
SAFETY STRATEGY ON TOUR
| Equipment check | Ensure that you have all the equipment you need, that it works and is in order. Decide who carries what. First aid, repair kit, rope/s. What effect does this have on party organisation? |
| Make use of vantage points en-route | Take full advantage of spying out the route ahead and observing conditions and difficulties etc. Routes planned earlier may have to change in the light of new views and snow conditions. |
| Stay observent Gather information | Don't be afraid to ask hut wardens/guides and local experts for information. Stay alert. Take time to think about conditions and safety. |
| Effect of wind | Be observant. Look for the effects of wind. Cornices, slabs, drifting. How will it effect your route? |
| Avalanche activity | Be observant. Note old and new slides. What aspects and altitude as well as type. What affect will they have? |
| Hazards | Check out the route for unavoidable difficulties. What's the best option/route to overcome them? |
| Unseen hazards Terrain traps | Ensure that the route is not threatened from above or below by unseen/unnoticed dangers. Terrain traps. |
| Timings | In the light of conditions are the objectives and time available/allowed realistic? |
| Descents – think ahead | Should route be changed in the light of conditions during the ascent. Timing. Order of descent. |
| Options and escape routes | In the light of conditions will the route planned be possible? Can it be changed. What are the options? |
| Snow conditionsAspect | Are they as expected? Stability, quality. Does this affect safety? Are all aspects safe/dangerous. |
| Stability tests | Where and when to make them – if at all. If you feel unsure/unhappy about a slope ask yourself why? Check it out. Dig a pit and test your assumptions before you ski it. |
Putting in a Track
A good track is both efficient and safe in ascent and descent. A good route is not only safe, it should also be enjoyable skiing. It is not, however, always the shortest route, but should endeavour to:
minimise exposure to terrain traps – dangerous places which would make the consequences of an avalanche or fall even more serious (eg. traversing risky slopes above cliffs)
minimise travel over slopes where snow stability is poor and the risk of avalanche suspected or known
minimise kick turns, especially in exposed places where the consequences of a slip are serious
minimise bunching together, especially in areas of suspect snow stability. Don't overload the slope.
Going uphill, a safe and efficient track should:
avoid unneccesary kick turns, but not be too steep
be within everyone's ability
avoid cutting the slope above other members of the group
ensure rests and regrouping occur only at safe locations
use vantage points en route to plan and assess the route ahead
allow observation of snow transportation and accumulation to help build a picture of snow stability.
Going downhill a controlled and disciplined descent allows you to:
assess snow stability and be aware of changes casued by slope aspect, elevation and angle
ensure that safety measures are in place to minimise the dangers to the maximum number of skiers within the group – speed and spacing are all-important
communicate with all members of the group, and ensure all understand the hazards and what is required – have an agreed signal system
maintain organisation and discipline and not let the descent become a free-for-all
stick to your route or planned options – don't just ‘go for it’ into the unknown.
I began this section by mentioning the three Ps – planning, preparation and practice. Well, there should really be six Ps because – ‘Planning, preparation and practice will prevent a poor performance!’
GROUP ORGANISATION
Assess the ability of every member of your group – who is the weakest link? Is the proposed tour more than they can deal with? Don't let ambition outdo ability.
What safety measures and group organisation are needed for the tour, given the terrain and group size, ability, etc? How are you going to cross suspect slopes? How are you going to carry out avalanche procedures/tranceiver searches?
Choose an able leader. Appoint a competent tail-end Charlie – not the slowest/poorest skier! Invariably the best skiers want to be up front putting in fresh tracks.
Grading and Difficulty
There are several well-established systems used for grading ski mountaineering and off-piste skiing objectives. The Swiss, French, German, Italian and Austrian Alpine clubs have adopted these, or variations of them, for use in their guidebooks. Two widely used grading systems are the Blachère and Traynard scales, which are described below and have, more or less, been incorporated into this guidebook.
Blanchère Scale
On tours where skiing rather than Alpine climbing skills are required the following adjectival grades are used (see table below).
The Blanchère scale has been used in this guidebook. Invariably this means that the equipment carried must include rope, crampons, ice axe and the means to ensure safety on steep terrain and glaciers. This roughly relates to mountaineering grades as: SAM = F (facile); BSA = PD (peu difficile); TBS = AD (assez difficile). The mountaineering grades of D (difficile), TD (très difficile) and ED (extrêment difficile) were not covered by the Blanchère scale and have traditionally been relegated to the realms of Extreme Skiing.
Traynard Scale
As the skier's ability to ascend and descend steep slopes has increased, the need has arisen for a more precise scale to highlight difficulty – the equivalent of the ‘numerical grading’ given to rock climbs. The Traynard scale (see table) offers a way of highlighting a section of steep skiing. This is most useful within a tour where the general standard is suitable for someone with moderate Alpine and skiing ability (SAM), but where there is, for example, a short section S3 difficulty. A ski party may be capable of skiing S3 terrain but would prefer a more relaxed tour where the overall grade is less challenging, yet are prepared to ski a few steep sections. This scale allows for that specific difficulty to be recognised and highlighted.
It is essential to apply common sense when using this numerical scale, which quite reasonably is based on ideal snow conditions. On a good surface with stable conditions an S3 slope, 300m high, sounds inviting. However, the same slope in icy conditions is far less appealing, feels a lot steeper and can be quite daunting! Similarly a pitch or two of 40° skiing in a confined couloir can feel intimidating. My advice is, when using this scale, to consider the conditions and terrain and imagine how they will affect the slope and your skiing.
For pure climbing difficulty the established Alpine grading system using the following symbols has been adopted: F = easy; PD = not very difficult; AD = quite difficult; D = difficult; TD = very difficult; and ED = extremely difficult. This can be distinguished further by adding a + or – sign to the grade, giving PD+, AD-, etc. This grading system takes into account both the technical difficulty and overall seriousness of a climb and will be familiar to users of mountaineering guidebooks.
Thus a ski tour may be given a grade of: BSA. With the option of an AD+ ascent and involve sections of S3 steepness. Combined, these gradings hopefully provide the skier with a lot of useful information about the difficulty and demands of the route prior to setting out on tour.
TRAYNARD SCALE
| Grade | Angle of Slope | Description |
| S1 | Well-defined, easy-angle tracks | |
| S2 | Easy-angled undulating slopes and hollows | |
| S3 | 35° | Big slopes with low exposure. The ability to make controlled turns. |
| S4 | 45° | Big slopes with increasing exposure, or couloirs with limited turning space |
| S5 | 45–55° | The limit of possibility for even the good skier. Faces and couloirs. |
| S6 | 55°+ | Slopes with great exposure and seriousness |
| S7 | ? | ? |
Equipment List
Wer warm hat, färt besser…good advice in any language
This is the equipment list I use for my own ski tours. It is not a definitive list, but in my experience it covers the essentials for a hut-based, multi-day tour. There be items here you neither need nor want to carry, but the list can be a useful aide-memoire when preparing for a tour.
Given that you are not self-catering, your packed sack for a week-long ski tour, including your share of group equipment, should weigh between 8 and 12 kilos. Obviously there will be some variation in the weight and warmth of the clothing depending on whether you are touring early or late season and on anticipated weather conditions. If your sack weighs much more than indicated above, you need to take a close look at what you are carrying.
Personal Kit List
The Three Essentials
Shovel – ideally a large metal-bladed shovel suitable for digging in hard snow.
Transceiver – to be worn at all times when skiing. All transceivers should be a single-frequency 457kHz model. Some earlier models had a different frequency: avoid these. Take spare batteries.
Probe – 2 metre minimum.
Clothing
Base layers (x2) – one to wear and one spare. These should ‘wick’ moisture from your skin. Cotton is not a good base layer, since it absorbs moisture like a sponge and feels cold and clammy after a rest. Longjohns are a useful option early season.
Mid-layer – Shirt or roll neck top. Ideally this should also be lightweight and wicking.
Fleece jacket or sweater – I use a Mountain Equipment Wind-stopper fleece. Highly versatile, it allows me to ventilate well but also offers protection in windy conditions when a shell jacket may not be appropriate. Some skiers prefer to carry two lightweight fleece pullovers.
Touring pants – touring pants in a windproof stretch fabric are ideal. Available from a number of good Swiss manufacturers, or try Mountain Equipment's G2 pants or Stretchlite pants in the UK. They should be warm, and wind and snow proof. Some people are happy using stretch fleece pants under a light shell.
Shell jacket – lightweight gore-tex is ideal, offering protection against the elements. For touring I like a fully functional attached hood that provides both protection and good visibility and I use a Mountain Equipment Paclite Jacket. I like to be able to fit sleeves over the wrist opening of my gloves, especially in poor weather.
Shell pants – either lightweight gore-tex or another breathable fabric. If you opt not to use touring pants but instead prefer technical shell pants worn over fleece pants, then I would opt for full-zip zipped gore-tex pants with braces. These can then be zipped on and off even over skis. Because I use touring pants I carry only very lightweight full side-zipped shell pants (Mountain Equipment Drilite Pants) for emergency use only.
Socks (x2) – one pair to wear and one pair spare. With well-fitting ski mountaineering boots you need only wear one pair of socks. However, many skiers like to wear a sock liner, which is one way of keeping socks fresh!
Ski gloves (x2) – I carry one pair of technical ski gloves plus a lighter windproof fleece pair. Make sure gloves are not too tight fitting. Hands tend to swell when skiing, and when wet they are difficult to push inside tight gloves. Loose linings are also a bad idea, as they generally pull out when you take the gloves off and are difficult to refit.
Sun hat – ideally with neck protection – this is particularly important later in the season when the sun's strength can be enervating.
Warm hat – ideally this should protect ears and side of face, and stay on in windy conditions.
Neck/ear band.
Lightweight down vest or jacket – (optional). These are ideal for sitting around cold huts or simply to pull on during a rest or lunch break. They weigh little, and in the case of an emergency can make all the difference. My favourite is the Mountain Equipment Lightline or Dewline Duvet.
Blistered feet and sore ankles are a frequent problem on ski tours – well fitting boots, good socks and early treatment are the best form of prevention
Hardware
Skis – I prefer medium stiffness all-terrain skis with a wideish tip (circa 110) and a reasonable amount of side-cut offering a relatively short radius turn of about 20–22m. Wide, short and light seems to be the way to go.
Touring binding – I currently use the Fritschi Diamir binding, as they offer great performance and ease of use. There are others available, and those wishing to go very lightweight should look at Dynafit Tourlite bindings. I like to have ski stops fitted and to carry safety straps.
Harscheisen – removable crampons for your skis. They are usually specific to a given binding. It is possible to get by without them, but on icy mornings and for hard snow they save time and energy and increase safety. I always carry them.
Skins – I prefer stick-on skins with a toe and tail attachment. If you change to fatter skis you should also change your skins for optimum climbing performance. You can buy skins custom shaped to fit carving-style skis. Make sure you have a stuff-bag to carry them in, and ensure you keep them clean and sticky.
Ski poles – with powder baskets. I prefer one-piece poles, but two- or three-section poles are OK and pack away easily.
Ski mountaineering boots – these should have a full climbing sole. Whatever boots you get they need to be comfortable for hiking on skis. I use Scarpa Denali, which although not the lightest on the market offer a high level of performance as a ski boot yet remain comfortable for walking. Blisters and sore feet are a common problem on ski tours. Normal downhill boots are not suitable for the tours in this guidebook.
Custom liners – these provide optimum fit and performance if fitted correctly. I use them for ski touring.
Custom footbeds – correctly fitted, they offer optimum comfort and performance. Most boots are supplied with relatively poor quality footbeds as standard.
Rucksack – 45–60 litre with waistbelt and side attachments for carrying skis. Get a sack that holds all you intend to carry. Try not to have much attached to the outside apart from skis, ice axe and possibly a shovel – the risk of loosing things, especially in a fall is high.
Water bottle/Thermos flask/hydration system – 1 litre minimum. If you opt for a hydration system ensure that the tube is insulated against cold, as they have a tendency to freeze up, leaving you high and dry!
Mountaineering harness – this should be large enough to fit over shell clothing and, ideally, have fully adjustable leg loops. Some skiers like a full body harness, but I feel the disadvantages outweigh the benefits. With a modern sit-harness, inverting in a crevasse fall whilst carrying a rucksack is unlikely, especially when wearing skis.
Lightweight headtorch – plus batteries and spare bulb. I use an LED-style headtorch, which is light and energy efficient.
Ice axe – this should be suitable for self-arrest, belaying and whatever climbing the tour involves. Many lightweight axes are unsuitable for belaying and climbing but are ideal for self-arrest and ski races. You don't need a technical ice tool.
Crampons – that fit your ski boots. Clip-on variety are ideal. Once again, choose crampons that suit the route. Many aluminum models, although lightweight and suitable for walking on snowy slopes, are unsuitable for climbing or hard snow, ice or mixed conditons.
Ski/mountaineering sun glasses – high quality sunglasses that provide protection from light reflected off snow and are suitable for altitude.
Ski goggles – essential in poor conditions to provide full cover from wind-blown snow and ice particles.
Sunscreen with high factor (20+).
Lip cream.
