Читать книгу The GR10 Trail - Brian Johnson - Страница 13
Оглавление1 HENDAYE-PLAGE TO ETSAUT
KEY INFORMATION
| Distance | 221km |
| Total ascent | 11,300m |
| Time | 68hr walking |
| Maps | IGN Carte de Randonnées 1:50,000 maps 1–3 |
The first nine stages to Sainte-Engrâce are over the steep rolling hills of the Basque Country. This is followed by a rapid transition to the steep limestone peaks of the High Pyrenees. This is the easiest section of the GR10, but in early season there could be problems with snow in the final stages.
Plateau de Lhers (Stage 12)
Getting to the start from Hendaye railway station
Head NE from the station, then turn left over the railway and follow the road all the way to the old casino on the seafront at Hendaye-Plage (40mins). If you are on a local train it is quicker to get off at les Deux Jumeaux station and then head N to the seafront.
STAGE 1
Hendaye-Plage to Olhette
| Start | Résidence Croisière (old casino), Hendaye-Plage |
| Distance | 21km |
| Total ascent | 1200m |
| Total descent | 1100m |
| Time | 6hr 5min |
| High point | N slopes of Mandale (530m) |
| Note | Although Coleman-style camping gas is difficult to find in Hendaye, all types of camping gas are available at the Decathlon store on the Txingudi commercial area at the southwest end of Irún near junction 2 of the A-8 autopista in Spain. |
Once Hendaye is left behind the GR10 provides easy walking, through a mixture of woodland and pasture, over the steep rolling hills of the Basque Country.
Hendaye has the international railway station and the main shopping areas while the beach resort of Hendaye-Plage, with its 3km sandy beach, has most of the accommodation and tourist facilities. There are toilets just along the seafront to the W of the start.
The town of Hendaye is only separated from the Spanish town of Irún by la Bidassoa river. The GR10 starts at the Résidence Croisière on the seafront. This magnificent building, built in 1885 in neo-Moorish style, was originally a casino but is now occupied by a selection of restaurants and tourist shops. For those who are travelling light, the E end of the beach is costumes-optional.
The old ‘casino’ in Hendaye-Plage
Head S down the Boulevard du Général Leclerc and, at a large roundabout, veer right down Rue des Citronniers to reach la Baie de Chingoudy. Turn left along the promenade, passing two sets of toilets and a waterpoint by a play area, to reach the Stade Bixente Lizarazu football ground. Veer left round the far end of the pitch, pass another waterpoint and go under the bridge to a roundabout. Keep straight on along a passage between flats and veer left up a minor road and along a footpath to another roundabout. Keep straight on up the Chemin de Biaténia which merges with the Boulevard de l’Emperor (30min). Turn right here if you need the large Intermarché supermarket (15min), which sells original and easy-clic camping gas.
Turn left for the GR10 and fork right up Rue Errondenia. At the top of the road turn right up the Rue de Pausoa and out of town. At the top of the hill turn left down a track, soon forking right and right again for your first wild camping opportunity (50min). Fork left to the top of Migeltxoenborda (132m) and veer left down to the D810 road (formerly N10). Turn left along the road and, after 100m, fork right down a track which soon becomes a path. At a junction, fork right along a track which becomes a small tarmac road. Then it’s left at a junction, fork right at the top of a hill, straight on at the next junction, sharp left, left again and next right to reach a tunnel which takes you under the A63 motorway. Ignore a sharp left turn and some tarmac drives to reach a junction at the top of the hill (1hr 40min).
Turn right if you want to visit the hamlet of Biriatou. There is a waterpoint in the hotel car park and public toilets with waterpoint near the auberge, below the church. If you visit Biriatou you can rejoin the G10 by following the signs rather than returning to the junction.
Turn left for the GR10, then fork right, turn left, fork right and climb. As the gradient eases, fork right and immediately left up a track (1hr 50min). Right and left forks bring you under powerlines. In bad weather the old GR10 route is preferable following the track traversing S to a 4-way junction. Take the right-hand of the two left turns and climb to rejoin the GR10 at Col de Poiriers (Pitara).
The GR10 goes left and immediately right to follow a path, which climbs to the right of the powerlines before reaching a viewpoint, with picnic table, under the powerlines at the foot of the rocky NW ridge of Xoldokogaina. After crossing the ridge fork right, right again and then turn right to regain the ridge above the crags. Follow the path easily up to the monument on the summit of Xoldokogaina (2hr 55min, 486m).
Descend roughly S to the Col d’Osin, veering left along a better track to the Col des Poiriers, which has good dry campsites and an ancient tumulus (3hr 15min, 316m). Follow the path, roughly SE, which climbs into the forest and reaches Col des Joncs (419m). Veer left up the ridge, fork right then turn sharp left back onto the ridge and turn right up the ridge.
The remains of an old hill fort, Redoute de la Baïonette, are worth visiting in good weather. They are reached by taking a sharp right turn onto the ridge and then following a good path northeast to the summit of Mandale. The remains are found at borderstone 9. After borderstone 10 veer slightly left to rejoin the GR10 for the descent to the Col d’Ibardin.
A stream below Col d’Ibardin
The GR10 contours the N slopes of Mandale (574m). The mountain ahead with the communications mast is la Rhune (905m). Eventually, at a switchback, turn right down a small path to reach Elizalde Restaurante at the Col d’Ibardin (4hr 5min).
The Col d’Ibardin has a multitude of bar-restaurants and supermarkets offering food and alcohol at Spanish prices. The Elizalde Restaurante offers accommodation. There are public toilets with water at the garage with a tourist office across the road.
Follow the road, which is the border between France and Spain, down to the actual col (317m). Turn left at the roundabout, down the D404. You soon fork right up a path, the Sentier des Mulets, turning right just before a gate and climbing steeply before veering right and turning left to descend on an increasingly good track to a barrier. Fork right along a path and turn right just before returning to the D404 (4hr 45min). Descend through woods to the left of a stream and eventually, just after a log bridge, turn right across the stream and follow another stream gently uphill. Stay on the right-hand side of the stream at a log bridge. You are on a Roman road originally built to serve the mining industry. Enter Spain at borderstone 18 to arrive at Venta Inzola (5hr 15min, 115m) which is a bar-restaurant.
Cross the stream immediately N of the Venta and follow the path as it climbs through the woods back into France to reach a complex junction at the Col du Grand Escarga (Deskargahandiko Lepoa) (5hr 35min, 273m). This col provides the last obvious campsites before Olhette. Follow the right-hand of the two paths, which goes straight on, veering left as it descends gently before forking left on a smaller path. After another left fork you arrive at the roadhead at Olhette (6hr 5min, 65m).
Olhette is a hamlet with two gîtes d’étape and one hotel. Gîte d’étape Manttu-Baïta is at the roadhead and the hotel and the Gîte d’étape Trapero Baïta are on the ‘main’ road about 500m further N. There is a waterpoint at the Gîte d’étape Manttu-Baïta.
FACILITIES FOR STAGE 1
Hendaye
Hendaye tourist office, east of the old casino: tel 05 59 20 00 34, www.hendaye-tourisme.fr
Camping des Deux Jumeaux, along the coast road near the east end of Hendaye-Plage: tel 05 59 20 01 65, www.camping-des-2Jumeaux.com
Selected accommodation close to the railway station:
Gîte du Littoral Côte Basque (gîte d’étape): tel 06 30 66 29 95
Hôtel de la Gare: tel 05 59 20 81 90, http://saintmartinmaite.pagesperso-orange.fr
Biriatou
Hôtel-restaurant les Jardins de Bakea: tel 05 59 20 02 01, www.bakea.fr
Auberge Hiribarren is a chambres d’hôtes with bar-restaurant: tel 05 59 20 61 83, www.auberge-hiribarren.com
Col d’Ibardin
Elizalde Restaurante offers accommodation: tel 0948 631 024 (Spanish)
Olhette
Gîte d’étape Manttu-Baïta has gîte d’étape and chambres d’hôtes accommodation. Tel: 05 59 54 46 72 or 06 20 43 49 25, www.chambre-d-hote-cote-basque-manttu.fr
Gîte d’étape Trapero Baïta offers accommodation, meals, a swimming pool and possibly camping in the garden. English spoken: tel 05 59 54 42 59, 06 66 08 56 95, leteich@hotmail.fr, www.facebook.com/Chambres-dhôtes-trapero-baîta-114558492050996
Hôtel-restaurant Trabenia: tel 05 59 54 01 91, www.hotel-trabenia.com
STAGE 2
Olhette to Ainhoa
| Start | Olhette |
| Distance | 21km |
| Total ascent | 700m |
| Total descent | 700m |
| Time | 5hr 25min |
| High point | Col des Trois Fontaines (563m) |
The stage starts with an easy climb to the Col des Trois Fontaines (Errepausuko Lepoa) from where it would be possible to climb la Rhune (905m), with its communication masts and station. There is too much road walking after Sare. The profile may look flat, but it is actually a succession of small ups and downs; don’t expect flat walking in the Basque Country!
From Olhette return to the roadhead, cross the stream, pass through the car park and take the path from the far left corner. You soon fork left, ignore turns to left and right, fork left again and turn right along a better track. Ignore assorted small paths and climb steadily until you fork left up a faint path immediately below the Col des Trois Fontaines.
The summit of la Rhune can be reached by following the main path, which veers right to gain the west ridge of la Rhune. Climb to the top by following the green arrows on a popular path. There are communications masts, a railway station, several bar-restaurants and tourist shops marring the summit. It will take 1½ hours to get there and back.
The GR10 continues to the col (1hr 30min, 563m). There is a small bothy, Arranoxola, about 300m N of the col, which was in excellent condition in 2015.
On the descent you cross a number of streams of dubious quality. Head E along the right-hand path veering right, roughly SE, to reach the rack railway which takes tourists from the Col de St-Ignace (NW of Sare) to the summit of la Rhune. Cross the railway track and follow the path, which descends gently to the right of the track. Turn sharp right at the second group of ruined farm buildings, then left after crossing a small stream. The track gradually improves before becoming a small tarmac road. Pass a waterpoint, turn sharp left at a farm and then down a path to the left of a house. Pass another waterpoint before turning right along a small road, which you follow down to the main road. Go half-left through the car park and right up a path, passing a large fronton, swimming pool and Spar supermarket (new in 2016) to arrive at the church at the centre of Sare (2hr 45min, 70m).
A fronton is the court for playing pelota – a Basque sport bearing some similarity to the game of squash. There are many variations to pelota, played with a ball using one’s hand, a racket, a wooden bat or a basket, usually played by teams of two.
Sare is a small village with a tourist office, campground and many small shops. Public toilets and a waterpoint are by the swimming pool. Hotels Arraya and Lastiry are in the centre of the village, with cheaper accommodation further along the GR10. There is a bus service from Sare connecting with the rail network at St-Jean-de-Luz.
The cobbled path leaving Sare
Turn right after the church. The road leads to a cobbled lane heading out of the village. Keep straight on up a tarmac road and up some steps to reach a road (3hr). Turn right for the Hôtel Pikassaria and Camping la Petite Rhune, which has a gîte d’étape.
The GR10 goes sharp left. Ignore several turns and keep straight on down a track, then turn right along a cobbled path. Pass a waterpoint before turning right along the D306. Almost immediately turn left across the river and veer left up a track at the end of the road. Turn right along a minor road and then fork left. Continue until a track forks left at Bordaberriko Borda. Follow this track which becomes a small road. Fork left, then go straight on down a track at a road junction. Turn left at a track junction and follow the border past borderstone 63. Shortcut left down a path, soon to rejoin the track. Cross a stream, then shortly afterwards turn left and follow a path along the stream. The path leaves the stream and crosses the track before joining a major track. Follow this alongside a large stream, cross the D4 road and follow a smaller track. Eventually turn left across a bridge and the track soon becomes a path. The waymarking is a little confusing (in 2015) but ignore right turns and follow the path as it climbs to join a small tarmac road. Ignore a sharp right turn to Dancharia and arrive at Ainhoa. Veer left to reach the tourist office, which is in the mairie, opposite the church (5hr 25min, 120m).
Ainhoa is a tourist village with three hotels and a campground with gîte d’étape. There are many small shops for the tourist but the only food available is bread, cheese and Basque specialities at tourist prices. There are toilets, with water, just down the lane from the tourist office. There is more accommodation at Dancharia, about 3km SSW of Ainhoa.
FACILITIES FOR STAGE 2
Sare
Tourist office: tel 05 59 54 20 14, www.sare.fr
Hôtel Arraya: tel 05 59 54 20 46, www.arraya.com
Hôtel-restaurant Lastiry: tel 05 59 54 20 07, www.hotel-lastiry.com
Hôtel-restaurant Pikassaria: tel 05 59 54 21 51, www.hotel-pikassaria.com
Camping la Petite Rhune, 300m from the GR10, also has a gîte d’étape. No meals but nearby bar-restaurant: tel 05 59 54 23 97, www.lapetiterhune.com
Ainhoa
Tourist office: tel 05 59 29 93 99, www.ainhoa.fr
Camping Harazpy also has a gîte d’étape. No meals: tel 05 59 29 89 38, www.camping-harazpy.com
Hôtel la Maison Oppoca: tel 05 59 29 90 72, www.oppoca.com
Hôtel Argi Eder: tel 05 59 93 72 00, www.argi-eder.com
Hôtel Ithurria: tel 05 59 29 92 11, www.ithurria.com
STAGE 3
Ainhoa to Bidarray
| Start | Ainhoa |
| Distance | 21km |
| Total ascent | 800m |
| Total descent | 800m |
| Time | 5hr 45min |
| High point | Col des Trois-Croix (510m), Col de Méhatché (716m) |
Wild camping is possible throughout this stage, which follows exposed grassy ridges typical of the Basque Country. The GR10 contours round most of the summits but, in good weather, you may prefer to take in up to four summits: Errebi, Atxulegi, Mont Bizkayluze and Gorospil. The descent to Bidarray is down an exposed, rocky mountain path that could take a long time for the inexperienced or overladen hiker, especially in bad weather. This is the most difficult descent on the GR10.
Follow the lane right, E, past the tourist office, veering left and right before turning right at a junction with a waterpoint and forking left up a dirt road. Climb steeply, passing nine large white crosses and a shrine with a waterpoint (running well June 2014 and 2015) before reaching the Chapelle de l’Aubépine (40min, 389m). Here there are multitude of small stone crosses and three large white crosses depicting the crucifiction of Christ. This is not the Col des Trois-Croix! Veer left past the crosses.
‘Crucifiction of Christ’ at Chapelle de l’Aubépine
In good weather you may prefer to take the obvious path over the summit of Errebi (582m), rejoining the GR10 at the Col des Trois-Croix (same timing).
The GR10 passes old mine workings as it contours round the N slopes of Errebi. Shortly after a right fork, turn right up a path and soon resume contouring, passing a barn and merging with a small track. Climb to a shallow col where you resume contouring on a bigger track before climbing gently to the Col des Trois-Croix (1hr 20min, 510m), which is marked by a single small iron cross!
You could traverse Atxulegi (617m) (taking about 15min longer) but the GR10 continues along the track round the S slopes, descending gently to an unnamed col with a complex junction. Head SE along the middle of the three tracks to another shallow col and continue on the track that veers right and climbs gently to the Col Zuharreteaco (2hr 10min, 566m) with a spring that was dry in June 2018.
In good weather it would be preferable to follow the ridge, roughly south, over Mont Bizkayluze (701m) and Gorospil (691m) to reach the border before turning left to regain the GR10 at Ferme Esteben.
The GR10 follows the track contouring the E side of the ridge. The track has become a path by the time you fork left as the end of the ridge is approached, then descend gently to reach a concrete track. Turn left and pass the back entrance to Ferme Esteben (2hr 50min, 580m), which is a gîte d’étape with a bar-restaurant.
The GR10 continues down the concrete track and goes straight on along a fence, when the track veers right. This path passes borderstone 77 and soon joins the tarmac access road to Ferme Esteben. Follow this road to a junction at the Col des Veaux (550m). There is a sign to Venta Burkaitz with bar-restaurant and accommodation, in Spain, which is about 300m S of the Col des Veaux.
The GR10 goes straight on up a track then follows the main track left at a junction and forks right up a path, veering left at the top of the fence to reach a tarmac road. In good weather you might like to climb the grassy Pic Iguzki (843m) to the E regaining the GR10 at the Col de Méhatché. The GR10 follows the road right along the N slopes of the hill to reach the Col de Méhatché (3hr 35min, 716m).
From the Col de Méhatché you could climb Artzamendi (926m) following the tarmac road to the communications complex on the summit or Pic Iguzki (844m) by its grassy northeast ridge.
The GR10 turns half-right, E, to reach a ridge which is followed past borderstone 82 and on to borderstone 83 at the Col d’Artzatey. Skirt left of the next top to the next col (3hr 55min, 630m). Before reaching the barn on the col, turn sharp right and descend steeply into a crag-bound valley. A rough rocky path then descends down the N slopes of the valley. There are now wires to protect the most exposed rocksteps.
Towards the bottom of the descent a small path goes steeply up to the left to the Grotte le Saint-que-Sue (Harpeko Saindua). Legend suggests that a young shepherdess was found ‘petrified’ in the rock. The cave became a shrine and site of pilgrimage with claims that the ‘holy water’ oozing through the cave would cure skin and eye diseases.
Eventually the path reaches a road (4hr 45min). Turn left along it before descending switchbacks to cross a bridge over Torrent le Bastan. Follow the road along or above the S bank of the river, passing a few swimming holes. About 20m before the road recrosses the river (5hr 20min), turn right up a steep path, then left along an old track. Fork right and then veer right round a ridge to reach a road by Gîte Urrizate. Follow the road, ignoring a sharp left turn, to arrive at the W end of Bidarray (5hr 45min, 150m). If you don’t need the facilities at Bidarray you could turn right here and start Stage 4. Head E down the road into Bidarray (5hr 45min, 150m).
The main facilities for walkers are in the upper village where there is a small shop in the bar-restaurant Iparla complex and the Hôtel Barberaenea. There is a waterpoint outside the church as well as public toilets and further waterpoints in the churchyard. Bidarray is on the railway line between Bayonne and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. The station and the Hôtel Noblia are in the lower village beside the river. Camping Amestoya is also on the D918, about 2km N of Bidarray.
FACILITIES FOR STAGE 3
Col des Veaux
Ferme Esteben, bar-restaurant and gîte d’étape: tel 05 59 29 82 72, www.gites-refuges.com/v2/detail-1868.htm
Venta Burkaitz, bar-restaurant, gîte d’étape and camping is possible but only open in high summer: tel 0948 393 000 (Spanish) or tel 05 59 29 82 55 (French)
Bidarray
Hôtel Barberaenea: tel 05 59 37 74 86, www.hotel-bidarray.com
Hôtel-restaurant Noblia: tel 05 59 37 70 89
Camping Amestoya: tel 05 59 37 25 81, www.camping-bidarray.fr
Arteka adventure school offers accommodation to hikers, if not fully booked: tel 05 59 37 71 34, www.arteka-eh.com
Gîte d’étape Aire Zabal (05 59 37 72 92) is also in upper village.
STAGE 4
Bidarray to Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry
| Start | Bidarray |
| Distance | 16km |
| Total ascent | 1300m |
| Total descent | 1300m |
| Time | 6hr 15min |
| High point | Pic d’Iparla (1044m), Buztanzelhay (1029m) |
The GR10 follows the magnificent border ridge over the Crête d’Iparla, reaching 1000m for the first time, before descending to Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry. It is probably best to assume there will be no available water until well down the descent to Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry. There are good, but exposed, campsites throughout the section. Waymarking is sparse in places along the ridge.
Follow the road SSW from the W end of Bidarray, forking right then taking the second right to reach the roadhead at Urdabordia. Follow the track to the right of the farm and veer right, up a path, to reach the ridge. Follow the path up the ridge to a junction at a saddle (1hr). Ignore the ‘tourist path’ going right and continue climbing fairly easily up the ridge on a rocky path, skirting left of the upper crags. The path now climbs gently up grassy slopes, veering left to Point 905. Continue along the edge of the steep escarpment. After the Col d’Iparla (2hr 20min, 950m) the path becomes rougher, passing borderstone 90 before the final climb to the summit of Pic d’Iparla, marked by a concrete pillar (2hr 45min, 1044m).
Pic d’Iparla, the first 1000m peak on the GR10
Continue along the ridge over two minor tops and descend gently, on a rough path, to the Col de Gapelu and over another minor summit, Pic de Tutulia (983m) and SW down to Col d’Harrieta (3hr 35min, 808m), which is easily identified as the trees cross the ridge. There is a waterpoint signed along a path 400m SSW from the col, but the water looks as if it needs filtering and the reliability of the spring is questionable.In bad weather there is an escape route signed E from the col down to Urdos from where you can follow roads to Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry.
Climb the ridge ahead, through the woods, skirting crags. Once out of the woods, the path climbs gently up the grassy ridge to a tiny cairn on Astate (4hr 15min, 1022m). Veer slightly right, following the ridge to descend to a col with the remains of an ancient burial mound and climb to the large summit cairn on Buztanzelhay (4hr 35min, 1029m). The path initially descends SW, to avoid crags, before veering SE to the Col de Buztanzelhay (843m). The GR10 forks left and descends steeply before veering right and contouring to a col (5hr 10min, 750m) on the E ridge of Aintziaga (905m). Cross the ridge and follow the path on the right flank before regaining the ridge at the head of a tarmac track.
Follow this track, shortcutting a couple of switchbacks on the right, pass a waterpoint (running well in June 2014 and 2015) and fork right on a path along the ridgetop, just before the track descends left. Eventually the path veers sharp left, at a shooting butt, and descends to a narrow road (5hr 50min). Turn right, and then fork left down a path which shortcuts switchbacks in the road. On regaining the road, fork right and continue down, passing the holiday village VVF. Turn right at the gendarmerie to arrive at the D948 road in Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry.
There is a bar-restaurant, toilets, pizzeria and tourist office where you reach the D948. Turn left and then right up the Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port road for the campground and the Intermarché supermarket, which stocks original and easy-clic camping gas.
The GR10 goes right to cross la Nive des Aldudes (6hr 15min, 162m). If you don’t need the facilities in the village you could turn left here to start Stage 5.
Turn right, W, along the river for a public park with water, toilets and picnic tables, the Spar supermarket, Gîte Gaineko Karrikan and the hotels. There is a bus service to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.
FACILITIES FOR STAGE 4
Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry
Tourist office: tel 05 59 37 47 28, www.pyrenees-basques.com
Gîte Gaineko Karrikan, with chambres d’hôtes, gîte d’étape and meals: tel 05 59 37 47 04 or 06 25 19 18 67, http://gitospit.free.fr
Villages VVF Iparla, aimed at tourists but will take GR10 hikers: tel 05 59 37 40 58, www.vvf-villages.fr
Camping Municipal Irouleguy: tel 05 59 37 40 80
Hôtel-restaurant Arce: tel 05 59 37 40 14, www.hotel-arce.com
Hôtel-restaurant Juantorena: tel 05 59 37 40 78, www.hotelrestaurantjuantorena.fr
STAGE 5
Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
| Start | Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry |
| Distance | 20km |
| Total ascent | 900m |
| Total descent | 900m |
| Time | 5hr 5min |
| High point | Munhoa (1021m) |
Much of the walking in this section is on farm roads or tracks. If the weather is fine climbing up Oylarandoy is well worth it. In bad weather you may prefer to follow the road to the west of Oylarandoy and continue along it until you reach the east ridge of Munhoa. There are several waterpoints on the route and exposed camping is possible on the ridges.
From the bridge over la Nive des Aldudes head E along a narrow road. Pass under the dismantled railway and immediately turn right and climb. Fork right after the second switchback and then fork left up a track to the left of a farm building. Keep straight on up a path at a junction and veer left when you meet a track. Ignore two left turns. The first campsites on the ascent are on the left by a third left turn (55min). Continue until you reach a narrow tarmac road, then turn right to a road junction (561m). Keep straight on up a track, then fork left and continue until the track levels off on the NE ridge of Oylarandoy.
