Читать книгу California Coastal Access Guide, Seventh Edition - California Coastal Commission - Страница 14
ОглавлениеSONOMA COUNTY
Map
Stillwater Cove to Russian Gulch
Russian River and Willow Creek
Photos
Along the Sonoma County coast are numerous highway pull-outs and parks that provide views and access to beaches and trails. Between Jenner and Fort Ross, Hwy. One climbs to an elevation of over 600 feet above sea level, among the loftiest points anywhere on California’s scenic coastal roadway. From this vantage point the sea seems larger than ever. The Sonoma coast is unstable ground; if you look closely you can see evidence of past landslides, some of which have resulted in periodic closure of Hwy. One.
Photograph wildflowers
In springtime, the forest near Salt Point is brightened by huge pink blooms of native rhododendrons scattered among the redwood, Douglas-fir, grand fir, and tanbark-oak trees. Some of the rhododendrons themselves are tree-like in size. A particularly good display can be found at Kruse Rhododendron State Natural Reserve, located less than one-half mile east of Hwy. One on Kruse Ranch Road. A major forest fire burned the area over a century ago, letting in bright sunshine and encouraging the rhododendrons to grow and bloom more vigorously. Second-growth redwoods and other trees have gradually shaded the forest floor, as part of the natural succession of plant species. State parks managers have thinned the tanbark-oaks to offset this effect, however, and the floral display remains spectacular, with May being the peak month. Five miles of trails await visitors; dogs are not allowed, and the narrow entry road is not recommended for RVs.
From late winter into spring, blue or purple Douglas iris are in bloom seemingly everywhere along the Sonoma coast. Along blufftop trails at Salt Point State Park are miniature flower gardens of golden California poppies, yellow tidytips, sea pinks, scarlet Indian paintbrush, and blue lupine. Flowers on the ocean bluffs are generally low in stature, due to prevailing breezes. For taking photos of wildflowers, a dewy, overcast morning can provide better results than a windy afternoon with sunlight and strong shadows. A delightful vantage point, with wildflowers scattered about, is reached from the main parking area at Bodega Head. Hike north on the Overlook Trail; high ground provides great views of the rocky coast and Bodega Harbor.
Salt Point State Park
Hike the coast
Hiking is excellent in state and county parks on the Sonoma County coast. Some destinations, in fact, are reachable only by trail. Start at Stump Beach Cove and proceed down to the rocky beach, backed by cliffs. In springtime, pelagic cormorants nest in niches on the near-vertical walls and can be seen skimming over the water in search of fish. Hike north along the trail to Fisk Mill Cove, a distance of two miles. Or skirt south of Stump Beach Cove and take the Salt Point Trail to Gerstle Cove, about one and one-quarter miles.
Trail north to Stump Beach Cove
Another fine hike starts at Goat Rock within Sonoma Coast State Park. Proceed south to Shell Beach, where the choice is to either continue along the bluff to Duncans Landing or head east, up and over Red Hill, into the Willow Creek watershed. At Bodega Head, a mile-long loop trail overlooks offshore Bodega Rock, where sea lions haul out and pelagic and Brandt’s cormorants roost. Hikers can also head north via trail through Sonoma Coast State Park as far as the Salmon Creek area. Parts of the Sonoma Coast can be reached only on a docent-led hike. The Upper Willow Creek watershed, slated for eventual addition to Sonoma Coast State Park, is open to hikers on a permit basis through the nonprofit LandPaths; call: 707-524-9318. Access to the Jenner Headlands Preserve is through the Wildlands Conservancy; call: 707-328-8539 or 707-696-3263.
See striking rock formations
The rocks exposed along the shoreline at Salt Point State Park reveal dramatic changes through time. These rocks were deposited 40–60 million years ago in a deep marine basin located some 350 miles south of their current position. They were transported to their present location by movement along the San Andreas Fault over the last 15–20 million years. The rocks consist of sediments that were cemented together by heat and pressure. The nature of the rocks depends on the size of the sediment grains: pebbles and gravels become conglomerates, sand becomes sandstone, and mud becomes shale.
Along the Salt Point Trail north of Gerstle Cove the layers of sedimentary rocks line the shore, with giant blocks tilted like building foundations gone askew. In fact, stone was once quarried here for use in construction projects in 19th-century San Francisco. Weathering of the sandstones has resulted in a beautiful, honeycomb-like formation known as tafoni, especially prominent at Gerstle Cove.
Sandstone tafoni, north of Gerstle Cove
Paddle a canoe
Canoeing on the Russian River is a long-time tradition. Burke’s Canoe Trips in Forestville rents equipment for summertime self-guided canoe tours up to ten miles downstream with pickup and return by shuttle; call: 707-887-1222. Or you can rent a kayak or arrange a trip with WaterTreks at Jenner, either to start at the mouth of the river or via shuttle upriver followed by a lazy paddle downstream. For information, call; 707-865-2249. Canoes, kayaks, and other watercraft can be rented also from vendors in Forestville, Guerneville, and Duncans Mills.
Other attractions
The Bodega Bay Fisherman’s Festival, now in its fifth decade, includes a festive boat parade and blessing of the fleet in recognition of the dangers of going to sea. The event is held in April, traditionally the opening of the ocean salmon fishing season. Musical entertainment, Coast Guard rescue demonstrations, and food and wine-tasting are part of the festivities, all to benefit local community services. For information, see: www.bbfishfest.org/.
Information about whale-watching trips and fishing excursions for salmon, halibut, rockcod, lingcod, or crabs is available at the Sportfishing Center next to Porto Bodega in Bodega Bay. To contact Bodega Bay Sport Fishing, call: 707-875-3344; for Miss Anita Fishing Charters, call: 707-875-3474.
Sonoma County
Northern Sonoma County
GUALALA POINT REGIONAL PARK: Hwy. One, 1 mi. S. of Gualala. The park’s day-use facilities are west of Hwy. One. Visitor center with changing exhibits is open weekends, Memorial Day–Labor Day. Fee for day use and camping. For park information, call: 707-785-2377.
▪ The park’s campground, including a hike or bike campsite, is east of Hwy. One. Coin-operated hot shower available; no RV hookups. For camping reservations, call: 707-565-2267.
▪ Access to the beach at the Gualala River mouth and to Sea Ranch Blufftop Trail
▪ Wheelchair-accessible trail leads seaward from visitor center parking area
SALAL TRAIL: Hwy. One, .2 mi. S. of Gualala Point Regional Park entrance. Trail leads along a thickly vegetated creek to the bluff above the ocean, intersecting with the Sea Ranch Blufftop Trail. No parking at the trailhead on Hwy. One.
SEA RANCH BLUFFTOP TRAIL: W. of Hwy. One starting at Gualala Point Regional Park. Trail winds south along the bluff edge from Gualala Point Regional Park a distance of three miles to the Walk-On Beach Trail. Sea Ranch residences are nearby; respect private property.
▪ Spectacular views of the rocky coast
▪ Del Mar Landing State Marine Reserve lies offshore; all living marine resources are protected
Keep in Mind
Beaches at Sea Ranch belong to the public. Trails provide access to the beaches.
Trails within the development that are open to public use are marked, and other trails are private.
All roads in the Sea Ranch are private; do not trespass.
WALK-ON BEACH TRAIL: Hwy. One, 2.5 mi. S. of Gualala. Trail leads one-quarter mile from the parking area to the bluff near Walk-On Beach. Due to bluff erosion, access to Walk-On Beach is not available. The Sea Ranch Blufftop Trail leads north to Gualala Point Regional Park. Call: 707-785-2377.
SHELL BEACH: Hwy. One, 3.7 mi. S. of Gualala. Half-mile-long trail leads to a fine sand beach. Offshore rocks shelter the ocean waters here.
▪ Harbor seals haul out on the beach
STENGEL BEACH: Hwy. One, 5 mi. S. of Gualala. Small parking area; beach access via short trail and wooden stairs.
PEBBLE BEACH: Hwy. One, 6.7 mi. S. of Gualala. Small parking lot next to Hwy. One. Quarter-mile-long trail leads to a secluded beach, paved with fine pebbles.
BLACK POINT BEACH: Hwy. One, 8.1 mi. S. of Gualala. Trail leads one-quarter mile to bluff edge. High wooden stairs provide access down the cliff to a long curving sandy beach.
Sonoma County
Salt Point to Ocean Cove
SALT POINT STATE PARK: Hwy. One,18 mi. N. of Jenner. Day-use and camping facilities on 6,000 acres, with mixed-conifer forest, grasslands, rocky shore, and sandy beach. There is even an underwater park. Salt Point State Park includes all the land between Hwy. One and the sea for a distance of six miles, as well as much of the area inland to the top of the ridge. In the campground RVs are limited to 31 feet long; trailers to 27 feet. Family and group campsites can be reserved; call: 1-800-444-7275. Hike or bike sites and overflow camping are first-come, first served. For information on park facilities, call: 707-847-3221.
▪ Twenty miles of trails for hikers, mountain bikers, and equestrians
▪ Unusual pygmy forest with stunted cypress, pine, and redwood trees
▪ Fishing and abalone diving allowed except at Gerstle Cove and Stewarts Point State Marine Reserves
HORSESHOE POINT: Hwy. One, .5 to 1.5 mi. N. of Fisk Mill Cove park entrance. Trail at Hwy. One milepost 43.06 leads to the ocean bluff through bishop pine forest.
▪ Spring and summer wildflowers grow on the bluffs
▪ Near Horseshoe Cove is a surf break known as Secrets
FISK MILL COVE: 2.7 mi. N. of Gerstle Cove park entrance. Wind-sheltered picnic areas. A viewing platform atop Sentinel Rock is at the north end of the parking area.
STUMP BEACH COVE: Hwy. One, 1.2 mi. N. of Gerstle Cove park entrance. Sandy cove beach ringed by sandstone cliffs. Picnic tables near the parking lot.
▪ Pelagic cormorants nest in springtime in niches on the cliffs
GERSTLE COVE: Hwy. One, 7 mi. N. of Fort Ross. Picnic and day use facilities. A mile-long trail leads north along the bluff to Stump Beach Cove. Trails also connect to the much larger area of the state park east of Hwy. One. The inner cove is part of a state marine reserve where no marine life may be taken or disturbed. Visitor center open weekends, April–October.
▪ Harbor seals haul out on the rocks offshore
▪ Tafoni, a honeycomb-like sandstone formation, is prominent at Gerstle Cove
OCEAN COVE: Hwy. One, 5 mi. N. of Fort Ross. Privately owned bluff and beach with a boat ramp and campground. Some 100 RV or tent campsites are on the ocean bluff or in the forest; firepits, picnic tables, hot showers, and chemical toilets. Reservations taken for group campsites. Pay camping and day-use fees at the grocery store. Closed in winter. Call: 707-847-3422.
▪ Fishing
▪ Diving
Sonoma County
Stillwater Cove to Russian Gulch
STILLWATER COVE REGIONAL PARK: Hwy. One, 4 mi. N. of Fort Ross. Day use and camping inland of Hwy. One; an unpaved trail leads to the beach. Campsites are in the forest, including a hike or bike site. Some sites improved for disabled access. Coin-operated showers for use by campers, electrical outlets, and a dump station; no RV hookups. For camping reservations, call: 707-565-2267. For park information, call: 707-847-3245.
▪ A pull-out one-quarter mile north of the Stillwater Cove Regional Park entrance adjoins an unimproved park area. A path leads along the bluff edge, with views of the coves below.
▪ Kayak launch at the cove
▪ Half-mile trail leads to the historic Fort Ross schoolhouse, built around 1885
TIMBER COVE CAMPGROUND: 1 mi. N. of Fort Ross. Privately operated campground and beach access point. Kayak launch spot; bait and tackle. Call: 707-847-3278.
▪ Nearby Timber Cove Inn is the site of a Beniamino Bufano statue, Peace
WINDERMERE POINT: Off Hwy. One, .1 mi. W. of Fort Ross Store. Gravel parking and blufftop views. Part of Fort Ross State Historic Park.
FORT ROSS STATE HISTORIC PARK: Hwy. One, 11 mi. N. of Jenner. More than 3,000 acres of coastal bluff, beaches, and forest, along with the settlement site of native peoples and 19th-century Russian traders. Fort Ross State Historic Park includes the Russian fort and several other reconstructed structures. The Rotchev House, built in 1836, is original construction. The visitor center contains exhibits on local history and a bookstore with a collection on Russian history; call: 707-847-3437.
Day-use beach access is near the fort in the coves where Ross Colony workers built ships and ranchers once shipped out bulk cargo using a 180-foot-long chute from the blufftop. Inland of Hwy. One, Fort Ross Rd. climbs 1,400 feet up the ridge, past the old Russian orchard of apple, plum, and pear trees and the Stanley S. Spyra Memorial Redwood Grove. For park hours and information, call: 707-847-3286.
▪ Picnic sites are near the visitor center, in the fort, and next to the historic Call Ranch House
FORT ROSS REEF CAMPGROUND AND BEACH: Hwy. One, 10 mi. N. of Jenner. Campground entrance is 1.6 miles south of the main entrance to Fort Ross State Historic Park. Primitive campsites with tables, stoves, and food lockers; drinking water available. No reservations taken. Large RVs not advisable, due to limited turning space. Separate day-use parking area; trail to rocky beach.
VISTA TRAIL: Hwy. One, 4.5 mi. N. of Jenner. High-elevation views from a paved loop trail. Picnic area.
RUSSIAN GULCH: Hwy. One, 3 mi. N. of Jenner. Cove beach bounded by cliffs, reached by a short trail. Call: 707-875-3483.
Sonoma County
Russian River and Willow Creek
JENNER HEADLANDS PRESERVE: E. side of Hwy. One, N. of Jenner. Open space managed by the Wildlands Conservancy. Access only by docent-led hikes; call: 707-328-8539 or 707-696-3263. Construction of California Coastal Trail segment and parking facilities anticipated by late 2014.
NORTH JENNER BEACHES: W. side of Hwy. One, N. of Jenner. Sonoma Coast State Park includes the coast from Russian Gulch to the Russian River. Pull-outs at Hwy. One milepost 23.17 and 23.82 lead to unimproved trails across the bluff, but no safe beach access. Pull-outs farther south provide access down a low bluff to a river-mouth beach.
JENNER VISITOR CENTER: Hwy. One at mouth of Russian River. Volunteer-run center with displays about the Sonoma coast and a bookshop. Open most days, 10 AM–4 PM. For information, call: 707-865-9757.
▪ Small-boat launch area
▪ Picnic tables
VISTA POINTS: Hwy. One, Jenner to Bridgehaven. Pull-outs along Hwy. One offer views of the Russian River estuary and Penny Island.
▪ Ospreys nest in the tops of trees along the river banks and can be seen fishing at the river mouth
DUNCANS MILLS CAMPING CLUB: Hwy. 116, Duncans Mills. Private, membership-only campground on the north bank of the Russian River. Public day use of the river beach allowed; fee charged. Park outside the campground and walk in. Call: 707-865-3181.
CASINI RANCH FAMILY CAMPGROUND: Moscow Rd., .75 mi. E. of Hwy. 116, Duncans Mills. Privately operated facility offers camping and river beach access on the south side of the Russian River. Picnic tables and restrooms are at the beach. Campground includes tent sites and RV sites with hookups. General store, playground, and recreation hall. Call: 1-800-451-8400.
WILLOW CREEK: Willow Creek Rd., off Hwy. One. Turn east off Hwy. One just south of the Russian River bridge to reach the Willow Creek area of Sonoma Coast State Park. Willow Creek and Pomo Canyon environmental campgrounds are open seasonally, first-come, first-served; for current status, call: 707-875-3483. Willow Creek campground is on Willow Creek Rd. near a rocky river beach, one-half mile east of Hwy. One. Pomo Canyon campsites are two miles farther along Willow Creek Rd. in a redwood grove. At Pomo Canyon, campers must carry gear from the parking area, about one-quarter mile. One campsite near the parking area is wheelchair accessible. Picnic tables and fire rings; running water nearby.
▪ Three-mile-long trail from Pomo Canyon Campground over the hills to Shell Beach
▪ Upper Willow Creek watershed is open to hikers on a permit basis through the nonprofit LandPaths; for event line, call: 707-524-9318
Sonoma County
Sonoma Coast State Park
GOAT ROCK: Goat Rock Rd., off Hwy. One. Part of Sonoma Coast State Park. Two parking lots are at the end of Goat Rock Rd., one at Goat Rock and another at the mouth of the Russian River. Blind Beach is south of Goat Rock and has its own parking area off Goat Rock Rd.; the Kortum Trail leads south to Shell Beach. Leashed dogs allowed only on Blind Beach.
▪ Harbor seals haul out at the river mouth; stay well back to avoid disturbing the animals and their pups
SONOMA COAST STATE PARK: Off Hwy. One, from north of Jenner to Bodega Head. Twelve miles of coast with numerous beach access points. At some beaches, dogs are allowed on a leash of no more than six feet; check local signs. For park information, call: 707-875-3483.
▪ Picnic sites at many locations
▪ Campgrounds are at Wright’s Beach, Bodega Dunes, and Willow Creek
Keep in Mind
Unpredictable waves can reach up onto beaches or rocks; always keep an eye on the ocean.
SHELL BEACH: 3.5 mi. S. of Jenner. Stairs to beach. From the parking lot, the Kortum Trail leads north to Goat Rock and south to Wright’s Beach. Hike east on the Dr. David C. Joseph Memorial Trail to Pomo Canyon Campground.
WRIGHT’S BEACH: Along Hwy. One, 6 mi. N. of Bodega Bay. A picnic area and campsites are located near the beach. There is running water; no shower facilities.
DUNCANS LANDING: Along Hwy. One, 5 mi. N. of Bodega Bay. Parking and picnic tables on the bluff; stairs lead to a small sandy beach south of the promontory.
GLEASON BEACH: Along Hwy. One, 4.5 mi. N. of Bodega Bay. Blufftop pull-outs at Gleason Beach and Duncans Cove.
▪ Good views of seabirds roosting on offshore rocks
CARRINGTON COAST RANCH: Coleman Valley Rd., .3 mi. E. of Hwy. One. Open space area with hiking entry via permit. Call the Sonoma County Open Space District at 707-565-7360 or the nonprofit LandPaths at 707-524-9318.
NORTH SALMON CREEK BEACH: Hwy. One, 2.5 mi. N. of Bodega Bay. Parking area off Hwy. One on a low bluff north of Salmon Creek; stairs to beach. A separate parking area at the end of Bean Ave. has been covered by encroaching dunes.
BODEGA DUNES: Hwy. One, .5 mi. N. of Bodega Bay. Part of Sonoma Coast State Park. Day-use parking area near the ocean includes a wheelchair-accessible boardwalk. Campground near Bodega Harbor offers 98 campsites, hot showers, and trailer sanitation station. Campsites are wind-sheltered by trees and dunes. Leashed dogs allowed in the Bodega Dunes Campground only.
▪ Campfire center
▪ Hiking and equestrian trails through the dunes
Sonoma County
Bodega Bay
MASON’S MARINA: 1820 Westshore Rd., Bodega Bay. Private marina with berths, docks, fuel, marine supplies, and snack shop. Call: 707-875-3811.
SPUD POINT MARINA: 1818 Westshore Rd., Bodega Bay. The 244-slip marina is shared by commercial and recreational boats. Twenty-four-hour fuel dock, commercial flake-ice machine, hoist, laundromat, and showers.
▪ Breakwater serves as a public fishing pier where a fishing license is not necessary although catch limits apply
WESTSIDE REGIONAL PARK: Off Westshore Rd., Bodega Bay. Day-use boating area with launch ramp; campground with 48 sites, picnic tables, and coin-operated showers. For camping reservations, call: 707-565-2267. For park information, call: 707-875-3540.
BODEGA HEAD: End of Westshore Rd., Bodega Bay. The road to Bodega Head forks at the end to two separate parking lots. At the ocean parking lot, take the half-mile trail north to the Horseshoe Cove overlook, the highest promontory on the peninsula.
From the eastern parking lot, follow the trail past the restrooms one-half mile to a dramatic view of wave-washed Bodega Rock offshore.
▪ Pelagic and Brandt’s cormorants nest on Bodega Rock
▪ Memorial to fishermen lost at sea is along the trail
▪ Whales pass offshore from November to early May
CAMPBELL COVE: End of Westshore Rd., Bodega Bay. Sheltered bay beach at the mouth of Bodega Harbor.
PORTO BODEGA: 1500 Bay Flat Rd., Bodega Bay. Facilities at the marina include 77-berth boat dock and launch, 57-space RV park with hookups, restaurant, and tackle shop. Call: 707-875-2354.
LUCAS WHARF: 599 Coast Hwy. One, Bodega Bay. Fresh fish market and restaurant; public viewing area on the wharf.
BIRD WALK COASTAL ACCESS: W. of Hwy. One opposite No. Harbour Way. Picnic area and trails; one trail leads to Doran Beach Regional Park.
▪ Look for songbirds, shorebirds, and waterfowl
DORAN BEACH REGIONAL PARK: Doran Beach Rd., Bodega Bay. Access to the ocean beach and to the harbor; picnic areas, trails, and boating facilities. Campground open year round; coin-operated showers and trailer sanitation station. Dogs must be leashed. For camping reservations, call: 707-565-2267. For park information, call: 707-875-3540.
▪ Fishing off the rock jetty at the end of the sandspit
▪ Boat launch ramp
PINNACLE GULCH AND SHORT TAIL GULCH TRAILS: Mockingbird Dr., Bodega Harbour subdivision. Take S. Harbour Way off Hwy. One, then left on Heron Dr. to Mockingbird Drive. Fee for parking. Half-mile trail to beach. Walk from Pinnacle Gulch parking area one-half mile to Short Tail Gulch trailhead on Osprey Dr.; half-mile trail to beach.
Gerstle Cove and visitor center
North Jenner Beach, Russian River mouth
Kortum Trail, north of Shell Beach
View of Duncans Cove from Duncans Landing
