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heroes’ outpoured blood.”

A walk along the Grande Allée, and on St. John and St. Valier Streets will be rich in interest. Palace Hill, too, and the old streets of St. Paul and St. Peter are full of character; while in the cluster of old-town streets, alleys and passageways that extend from below the eastern ramparts to Little Champlain below Dufferin Terrace, the visitor will find the quaintest sights the new world has to show. Mountain Hill, Sous-le-Fort and Sous-le-Cap are streets the like of which may be seen nowhere out of Quebec. St. Louis Street, the Esplanade and St. Roch’s will repay close intimacy and examination.

Sous-le-Cap Street, Quebec

In a ramble that has for its object an inspection of the chief public and historical buildings of the city, the ruins of the Intendant Bigot’s old palace claim attention. They are at the foot of Palace Hill and are now used as ale and porter vaults.

Bigot was a high-placed scamp of the worst description. The times in which he lived were somewhat loose, but even then he excited much unfavorable criticism by living with a woman to whom he was not married. One evening he got drunk, a not infrequent event with him. Stumbling homewards he lost his way in the woods, where he slumbered away some of his drunken stupor. Unfortunately for her a pretty French-Algonquin maiden was passing when he awoke. He saw and admired her, and like more than one of the royal masters of France he built a bower for his Caroline in the woodland depths. It is claimed she was his unwilling prisoner. The Intendant’s pseudo wife soon learned she had a rival hidden away somewhere. Driven mad by jealousy she stealthily followed the unsuspecting Bigot and found his retreat. She returned to the city and said nothing, but soon after that a scream aroused the 49 sleeping Intendant while spending the night in his sylvan bower. He rushed to Caroline’s room and found her lying there, murdered, with a knife in her heart. There are many versions of this terrible affair, and in this connection the novel of William Kirby is well worth reading.

Over the Post Office there is an effigy known as the ‘Chien d’Or,’ or ‘Golden Dog,’ which has excited much interest on account of its enigmatical inscription, a translation of which here follows:

“I am a dog gnawing a bone,

While I gnaw I take my repose.

The time will come, though not yet,

When I will bite him who now bites me.”

The stone tablet bearing this effigy and inscription was originally in the walls of the old house owned by one Philibert, which house formerly stood on the post office site. When the old house was demolished, the tablet was saved and incorporated in the new building. A story of murder and revenge appears to be connected with the strange inscription, but like most of the old traditions it is a matter of dispute. Kirby’s ‘Golden Dog’ gives one version that makes interesting reading.

A beautiful maiden of Quebec was nearly the cause of closing the naval career of the great Nelson. Had it not been for the interposition of a true friend, the young sailor, who visited here in the Albemarle, man-of-war, at the outset of his great and glorious life, would probably have been lost to England, and Trafalgar would have been unfought. Fortunately the insane determination of the young sailor to stay and woo his inamorata, and abandon his ship when it was ordered to India, was overruled by Davison, his true friend. Whether persuasion or bodily force brought about the result, after Nelson—having said ‘good-bye’ to his distinguished and lovely young sweetheart—secretly stole ashore again, is uncertain. What is known is that he was persuaded to adhere to his duty—and the world knows the sequel.

The Parliament Buildings are on the Grande Allée, and a splendid view of the fine pile may be had from almost any point, so well chosen is the site. From the main tower of the building the grand view of the superb surroundings should be seen. The interior corridors and chambers are very attractive, while the bronze groups and heroic 50 figures of the great in Canadian history, by Hebért, in recesses along the façade are splendid in conception and execution. There is an excellent library where valuable archives of olden times are preserved. Americans will be interested in the two hickory trees sent from General Andrew Jackson’s old home in Tennessee and which are growing on the Grande Allée to the south.

Spencer Wood, with its leafy, winding roads and shady avenues, is at the extreme western end of the city’s suburban extension, not far from Wolfe’s Cove. The delightful, old roomy mansion to be seen there was formerly used as a Governor-General’s residence. It is now occupied by the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province.

The Château Frontenac stands on a site of such prominence, and commands such a glorious view, that few places in the world may compare with it. The delightful architectural presentment of all that is picturesque and graceful in old-time buildings, carries us easily back to the fourteenth century, and even to prior times. From its turrets, dormers, pierced towers and hundreds of windows a prospect meets the eye that is uplifting and irresistible in its appeal to those who love that rare combination, man’s work at its best and nature in her grandest mood. The panorama of the great river carrying its proudly floating ships to and from the ocean, the Lévis shore, the citadel, the terrace with its ever-varying throngs, the old town away below in the giddy depths, the mountains, the distant country dotted with its white houses, the fleecy clouds, the shimmering haze and the far away perspective of varied beauty; all these make a picture upon which the gaze may be intently turned, without weariness, again and again.

As is befitting, the plan of the structure is irregular, and, in the olden way, the principal entrance is through an interior court of considerable size. The Château is built of Scottish brick and grey stone, roofed with copper. Over the main entrance is a shield bearing the arms of Frontenac who lived in the old Château St. Louis—as did Champlain and others—that stood on this very site. In plan it is more homelike and comfortable than the usual palatial hotel, and there is an absence of the customary annoying rush, public promenading in corridors, etc., found in the large hostelries of the American continent. In fact the general plan is that of a 51 sumptuous and princely castle-mansion of olden times, sufficiently modernized to give all necessary comforts for those who stay here. The interior decorations, panel effects, tapestries, heraldic and symbolic ornamentations, and the artistic furnishings will commend themselves to all. There is so much to be seen, that all visitors to Quebec should introduce themselves to the courteous management and take the opportunity of making a thorough examination of the Château interior. Do not hurry; avoid the modern detestable rush and indigestion of sights, scenes and ideas. Make a preliminary tour of all public places in the building, and then go through it at leisure, making notes of all the numerous features that in themselves, alone, are an education.

Laval University is famous for its treasures of art and splendid library. It has a fine picture gallery and museums. A beautiful and extended view of the surrounding country may be had from the promenade on the roof of the building. In the smaller seminary adjoining were confined the American officers who were taken prisoners at the time of Arnold and Montgomery’s attack on Quebec in 1775. The buildings contain many things of interest for the general visitor, and here a whole day may profitably be spent.

The Ursuline Convent, Hotel Dieu, and Cardinal’s Palace are also places of great interest. In the chapel of the convent the remains of the brave Montcalm are interred. Here may be seen the monument erected to his memory, bearing an inscription prepared by the French Academy. A second memorial, erected by Lord Aylmer, has an inscription of which the translation reads:

“Honor to Montcalm!

Fate in depriving Him of Victory

Rewarded Him by a Glorious Death!”

The Hotel Dieu, or hospital, is the oldest institution of the kind in all America. It was founded in 1689 by the Duchess d’Aguillon, who was a niece of the great Cardinal Richelieu. Some of the oldest houses in Canada originally stood in this locality. The Hotel Dieu contains some very excellent paintings and valuable relics of the early Jesuit missionaries who were martyred by the Indians. While in Quebec read the story of this terrible martyrdom, and learn what incredible suffering was endured by those brave men who assisted in opening up the heritage we now enjoy so complacently.

The Cardinal’s Palace at the crest of Mountain Hill Street is worthy of a visit to inspect its fine apartments and reception chamber.

The English Cathedral and the Basilica are the two principal churches of the city, although there are, of course, many other churches well worthy of a visit. On the site where now stands the English Cathedral formerly stood the ancient church and convent of the Recollêt Fathers. The last survivor was pensioned by the British Government. He was well known for his wit. It is recorded that he was once asked if he knew that a priest had arrived in town who was noted for his appreciation of the good things of the table, but who, ever ready to be a guest, never entertained others. The good old Father replied. “I saw him to-day, ‘going about seeking whom he may devour.’”

The Cathedral contains splendid monuments, a fine chancel window and a silver communion service of exquisite design and superior workmanship. It was a present from King George III. What is frequently seen in Europe, but rarely in America, is the decoration of a church interior with old battle-torn regimental flags, and here the former colors of the 69th British regiment are draped over the chancel. In the Cathedral enclosures once stood a precious elm under which Jacques Cartier is believed to have assembled his followers on their first arrival in this part of Canada. It was blown down over a half-century ago. The treasures contained in the Cathedral will be appreciated by all who wish to understand Quebec and its past.

The Basilica is venerable with age, dating back to the year 1647. Two years previous to that, twelve hundred and fifty beaver skins had been set aside to commence a fund for the building of this Cathedral. Although it has suffered much from fire and siege, the foundations and parts of the walls are those of two-and-a-half centuries ago. Champlain’s ‘Chapelle de la Recouvrance’ was in the rear of the Basilica, and traces of its walls are still visible. The edifice contains many beautiful paintings and it is also rich in memorials of great historic value. In fact many of the works of art seen here are almost priceless. Rare gifts from the ‘Grand Monarch,’ Louis XIV. may here be seen; and the building contains enough of interest to occupy a good portion of a rainy day.

Many pleasant spots are in the immediate neighborhood of Quebec, and some that are also intimately connected with events 53 of the past. A drive through the pretty village of Charlesbourg and beyond, and some four miles east, may terminate at the ruins of the Château Bigot, known as Beaumanoir, and also called the ‘Hermitage.’ It was here the tragedy in connection with the beautiful maiden of French and Algonquin extraction took place; for it will be remembered that this was the woodland bower or country house of the infamous Intendant Bigot whose city residence was the palace at the foot of Palais Hill. The building was originally a very extensive one, with many secret passages. Until within recent years the burial place of poor Caroline was marked with a flat stone that had the letter ‘C’ chiselled on it.

Indian Lorette may be reached by carriage, or by a short run on the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway. The country through Charlesbourg is very pretty, mountainous and splendidly wooded. There is a grand fall of water at the Indian village where the Lorette courses along a romantic bed and dashes madly through wild and rocky gorges. Huge masses of stone have fallen from the cliffs, and in places small trees have gained a foothold on the apparently bare tops of these rocks. They often assume odd forms, and particularly so when they grow sidewise from the perpendicular clefts in the face of the rocky banks. The bottom of the gorge is rugged and striking. Huge table rocks slant upwards, and the torrents of water dashing against them rear up and pass over or around the obstructions. The volume of water precipitated over the fall is very great, and the whole scene as the eye follows the river bed is most striking. It is a novel experience to stand or sit on a ledge fronted by a huge boulder in the middle of the narrow channel or gorge. The Lorette gaining here in depth rushes down with great force, and as the river is deflected it rises up a seething pillar of water, so that, at only arm’s-length the curious sight may be viewed. Nearly everyone feels the fascination of a waterfall like this, with its ever-changing form and merry, boisterous song. The romantic descent into the ravine is something to be remembered—nothing could be wilder or so touched with Nature’s art. Just above the village is the Château d’Eau, from in front of which the water is conveyed by conduits to Quebec. The scenery on 54 the river above the Château is charming, and a boat or canoe trip may be taken to Lake St. Charles through a most delightful sylvan country.

The Hurons live in the Indian village. They are industrious and peaceable, carrying on the manufacture of snowshoes, moccasins, and basket work, etc. In the height of the summer a good number migrate to the populous resorts of Murray Bay and the Lower St. Lawrence.

There is a fine view to be obtained by going up the eminence on which stands the attractive French village of Lorette.

Lakes St. Charles and Beauport, the Jacques Cartier River, Lake St. Joseph, and the river Ste. Anne are all delightful objectives, and they are within convenient reach of the city.

Quebec is fortunate in the possession of beautiful environs, and at Montmorency Falls there is a spectacle of grandeur that in itself is worthy of a pilgrimage of hundreds of miles to behold. Montmorency is about eight miles from the city, and it may be reached by carriage over the St. Charles River and by way of Beauport, or by the electric railway. The cataract has a fall of over 250 feet. The roar of the waters, the fascination of the billowy masses of white foam, and the rainbow-like play of colors in the dashing spray all hold the spectator spellbound. A fine general view is obtained from the station of the electric railway; but no adequate conception of the real grandeur of the sight may be formed until the view is taken from the observation platforms. A full descent should be made to the bottom of the steps that have been provided, and the view should be seen from the upper platforms or terraces as well.

The piers of the old suspension bridge are still standing near the brink of the falls. The bridge gave way and swept to destruction a farmer and his family who were driving across at the time.

Another good view of the falls may be obtained by crossing the Montmorency Bridge to the park on the eastern side of the river.

The natural steps in the solid rock of the river bed, about a mile above the falls, are no longer visible since the height of the river at that point has been much increased by the dam below. They were hewn out by the action of the rushing water of past centuries. While they were visible thousands of people were attracted there to wonder over the strange sight. The Fairy River nearby should also be seen, and a walk through the fields to the power-house will bring a reward in the grand view of towering rocky banks and the bridal-veil of water that falls over the height.

STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRÉ

1. Main Street2. Pilgrims Buying Relics3. Church of Ste. Anne de Beaupré4. Waterworks at Lorette5. Ste. Anne River

Near where Montmorency village stands was fought the first battle between Montcalm and Wolfe, this engagement being the prelude to the great attack on Quebec that resulted in the death of both illustrious generals and the permanent addition of Canada to the British Empire.

Governor Haldimand’s fine old mansion, the Kent House, where the Duke of Kent once lived, is now a delightful hostelry of that ideal kind where a semblance of home life may be enjoyed amidst restful and picturesque surroundings. There is a glorious view in every direction from the breezy highlands, and no one should miss the picture of Quebec seen from this vantage ground.

The Falls of Montmorency have not the breadth or extent of the celebrated Falls of Niagara. Their height, however, is much greater; and the rural and picturesque environment, as well as the graceful and lofty character of the waterfall, combine in a splendid prospect that has no equal anywhere.

Of the pleasant recreations in and about Montmorency, the Zoological Gardens maintained by Holt, Renfrew & Co., of Quebec, afford never-ending occupation for young and old alike. The numerous animals, etc., are well arranged for purposes of observation, and the interesting collection shows animal life in a way that is sure to bring many hours of enjoyment to those who ramble along the pleasant paths that have been laid out in various directions.

Everyone has heard of Ste. Anne de Beaupré, the quaint and medieval village, some twenty miles from Quebec, where the celebrated Church of La Bonne Ste. Anne is situated to which pilgrimages are ever being made by the faithful, and which is so full of interest and local color for those who merely go there to enjoy a pleasant excursion.

If an early riser, it is a good plan to take the electric limited train, known as the “Fast Pilgrimage,” at 6 a.m. This train stops first at the Church of La Bonne Ste. Anne and discharges nearly everyone of its passengers at the pretty little park-station in front of the church. The train then runs on a few hundred yards to the village of Ste. Anne de Beaupré, where that particular run terminates. Those 57 who go to worship will, of course, pass into the church at once in time for the early mass. As they do so they will not fail to notice that nearly every passenger goes direct to the church. One or two sightseers—for the hour is early—will saunter about and enjoy the delightful air and very foreign surroundings to pass away the time before having a country breakfast at one of the numerous hostelries with which the neighborhood is provided.

The Church of Ste. Anne presents a fine appearance, both within and without. The style of architecture is very pleasing, and the church stands in the midst of beautiful and well-kept surroundings. The interior, with many quaint decorations and numerous little chapels, is especially interesting, while a never-failing attraction for all is the huge pile of crutches and other appurtenances of bodily suffering or infirmity that have been thrown away by their happy owners who, it is stated, were miraculously cured here after making their devotions at the shrine of the celebrated Ste. Anne.

There is so much that is novel to be seen here—indeed it is the only place of the kind in the whole continent—so much beauty in the surroundings, and so much of the grandeur of nature everywhere, that he whose heart is not actively stirred must be too dead and inert for the wonderful appeal to move him.

With no stretch of the imagination the district may be called American Alpine, and almost equal to the Swiss Alps in real interest. In fact this is an older civilization, and all the accessories of race, customs and manners, and country lend themselves naturally to the production of the strangest effects. What quaint narrow streets are here; and see the overhanging balconies at almost every story of the foreign-looking houses that are placed at the foot of the steep hills, nestling close to them.

Almost every building in the village is a hotel, restaurant, or store for the sale of relics, curios, novelties and souvenirs. Everything contributes to the general fete or holiday-like appearance of the place.

In addition to the constant stream of visitors coming from Quebec, etc., by electric trains, special trains arrive at Lévis and Quebec that come from all parts of the provinces, quite frequently. Sometimes as many as four and five trainloads will be here in one day—all brought out to the church by the comfortable electric cars.

There is no better way of seeing the beautiful valley of Beaupré than by walking from the Church of Ste. Anne to the village of St. Joachim, a distance of something less than five miles. The high mountain-sides are liberally wooded with noble trees to near the roadway, where banks that are clear of wood slope more gradually, and not too steep to climb with a little effort. The daisies are so profuse in many places that the effect is nearly like that of a snowstorm. Particularly so where the young orchard is springing up, the spaces between the rows of trees being quite white.

No country could be richer in waterfalls of all sizes, from the precipitous and mighty fall of Montmorency down to the dashing cascade that starts out from the mountain side. In some places they may be heard but not seen, until in looking beyond the road a tiny stream is seen to be making riverwards, and further examination reveals a charming fall in some leafy copse on the other side of the road. The tones of these waterfalls, cascades, rivulets and springs are musical, grateful and soothing to ear and spirit beyond the power of words to describe; while the water, sparkling and clear, is pure and refreshing to the thirsty wayfarer.

Wildflowers are very prolific, sweet-scented and a constant joy to the eye.

“In the cool and quiet nooks,

By the side of running brooks;

In the forest’s green retreat,

With the branches overhead—”

will be found the iris, violet, trillium, water lily, and, at times, delicately colored orchids; while crowning the neat white fence of many a humble cottage festoons of trailing roses gladden the way.

There is a pleasant walk at Château Richer, up to the mill by the bend of the rippling Rivière à la Puce. The still water above, the 59 dark shade and the peaceful calm, all repay the little detour necessary to visit this charming spot. This is surely the land of the waterfall, for the falls of St. Fereol, Ste. Anne, Seven Falls and the fall of La Puce are all romantic and wonderfully picturesque. Though difficult of access, they are like hidden jewels—well worth the effort necessary to reach them.

So precipitous are the mountain heights hereabouts, and so well wooded, that although there are houses on the very brinks above the roadways, nothing can be seen of many of them from below save chimney tops and curling wreaths of smoke. A near view of the chimneys shows them to be of generous size, and in appearance like the old-fashioned stoves or ranges with the lids off—the orifices, however, being oblong, and not round.

Bake-ovens of huge proportions are often found in the gardens, under the protection of a few boards to give shelter to the cook from rain and sunshine. Owing to frequent subdivisions of the farms, as sons grew up and had a strip allotted to them by their fathers, some of the fields are so narrow that there is barely room to allow a horse and plough to turn.

All along the road the prevailing feature is the Alpine-like scenery, the towering heights and the white houses nestling in the mountain side at dizzy heights. Many houses are approached from the road by steps and a narrow walk between two habitations. On the next rise the same rule prevails, and so on up to the highest point. There is seldom an attempt at a hill-side street—it would be useless, because impossible to ascend without steps. A substitute for steps, however, is sometimes found in a sloping pathway that passes obliquely from the front of one house to the rear of the next, and so on until it reaches the top.

The old manner of laying out or planning a house still prevails. The kitchen generally runs the whole length and breadth of the house—often a kind of half-basement effect is seen, open in front on the road, but closed entirely by the hill behind. Here cooking, washing, spinning, sewing and the general household work of the industrious habitants is carried on, and here is where dinner is generally served. The whole activity of indoor life centres here; and so much was this the case in one house that a dog and five puppies occupied the hearthstone, a cat sat in the window nipping the green leaves of a plant, and a playful pet lamb frisked about unrebuked while four people were in the midst of preparations for serving the dinner. The houses are generally of substantial construction, and capacious barns are a noticeable feature in passing along the country side.

Montmorency Falls

Riviere Ste. Anne

A favorite trip for those living or staying in Quebec is that on the ferry steamers to the Isle of Orleans, originally called Isle de Bacchus by Jacques Cartier on account of the rich clusters of grapes that lined its shores when he cast anchor near. The island was occupied by Wolfe at the time of the fall of Quebec. There are many summer residences here, and it is a favorite place in summer for many who like to enjoy the cool river breezes.

The Falls of the Chaudière, not far from the railway junction of that name, should be seen by everyone coming anywhere 62 near this locality. They are within easy reach of Quebec by steamboat or railway, being only about nine miles from the city.

The river has a considerable width and falls gently over the dam in a long line of silver. Passing then towards its lower channel it falls beautifully in two, and sometimes three, cascades into the depths below. There is a great volume of water in motion, and the swelling sound of the roaring and foaming plunge makes pleasant music. A climb down into the deep channel is very novel, and the additional views thus obtained are quite striking. Here is slate enough to supply schoolboys the world over for many a century to come. There is a good foothold, when once in the river bed, on the inclined and shelving stratification; and by going to the edge of the principal fall, the war of waters against rock may be seen in all its intensity, and, in addition, the seething depths below will cause a shudder as the full meaning of the word Chaudière, “the cauldron,” comes to mind.

The country is beautiful and well wooded. There is a charm in the whole view when seen from the high bank from under the shade of the noble trees: it can never be forgotten. Enough has not been made of this district and all that it contains. It has been overlooked in the wealth of beauty that surrounds Quebec. It is so easily reached from either Quebec or Lévis that everyone should include the Chaudière in their round of beautiful sights. Nothing could be more enjoyable on a fine day than to take a luncheon and enjoy a picnic in the fine woods by these famous falls.

It was by the valley of the Chaudière that Montgomery came from New England when he made his disastrous attempt on Quebec.

Instead of returning to Quebec by steamer or railroad, the electric car to St. Romuald and Lévis may be taken. The Church of St. Romuald is one of the most important on the whole St. Lawrence River. It has some magnificent paintings, fine altars and choice wood carving.

As the car speeds along, the freshness of the verdure and the bright gold of the buttercups will call for notice. It would be impossible to toss a cent out of the window without causing it to lodge in one of those gorgeous yellow cups. Nature asserts her sway over man’s inroads, for the railway embankments are covered with beautiful parterres of purple, white, yellow, and blue blooms, with here and there a cluster of rich, wild lupine. No more beautiful country could be found, and the view of the great St. Lawrence, the village-capped heights, the gentle sloping mounds nestling for protection under the shelter of the high mountain chain, and the romantic cuttings through the chain of hills nearby—all these make a strong appeal to lovers of the beautiful. The little river running off to the south-east is the Etchemin, and in it there is a pretty waterfall.

Scenes in the Militia Camp at Lévis

From the opposite shore of Lévis one of the finest views of Quebec may be had. In fact, for miles up and down the south shore some of the grandest standpoints for extensive views may be found. The massive forts at Lévis, auxiliary to the fortifications of Quebec in the general scheme of defence, are worth seeing. It was from the Lévis heights that Wolfe’s artillery destroyed Quebec previous to its capture. The three solid structures that now constitute a strong line of defence are said to be very similar to the celebrated forts of Cherbourg. The Government Graving Dock is well worth a visit, especially at a time when a large vessel is docked there; for by descending the steps, walking along the bottom and then looking up at the great mass above, some adequate idea may be formed of the huge proportions of the modern “leviathan of the deep.”

Too much cannot be said of the grandeur of scene, the beautiful wood and dale, and the extensive panorama of country to be viewed from the vicinity of the Engineer’s Camp at St. Joseph de Lévis. The characteristic and charming view of the Montmorency Falls, with the beautiful St. Lawrence in the foreground, should be seen by everyone.

A military camp for general drill and evolutions is held here every summer, and in an amphitheatre of finely-wooded hills and gentle slopes running down to an almost level campus or plain, the citizen soldiers have ample room for comfortable quarters and extensive operations.

On a recent occasion six regiments of militia were encamped here, the 17th, 18th, 61st, 87th, 89th and 92nd. No better spot for the purpose could well be imagined. The tents on the slopes, open at the side for the air, and disclosing tastefully-grouped flags and other interior decorations, were all well placed to take advantage of shade and other natural advantages. In the officers’ quarters were mess tables comfortably placed in an annex or wing. The tents of the men gradually reaching down and on to the margin of the plain, the groups amusing themselves, preparing for the afternoon muster, fixing and cooking rations, etc.; and the orderlies and others passing from group to group all made a busy picture. An impromptu concert was in progress on a shady knoll where an artist on the accordeon 65 was sweeping the air in long curves as he sent music in every direction. Men were playing quoits, or reading books and writing letters under the cool shade of the maple trees. The post office at the entrance of the encampment, the sentinel, the quarters of the staff below, the clean hospital, and, at the foot, the view of the broad St. Lawrence with its receding background of bold mountains, all made the scene a stirring and well-remembered one.

Group of Officers, Militia Camp, Lévis

The energetic Colonel-Commander and his efficient aides had plenty of work before them in conducting the evolutions, and the men—many of whom were doubtless in camp for the first time—did very well indeed. And now the band formed, some regiments closed up their ranks, formed columns and marched off up the slope for skirmishing and outpost drill; while lower down other troops going through manual drill sent gleams of light from their gun barrels into the dark fir trees as the sun’s rays were deflected with brilliant effect. That persistent waving of flags on yonder distant knoll has its explanation in the corresponding signals that are being transmitted across the width of the broad amphitheatre from the edge of a clump of maples just behind us.

Colors were to be presented to one of the regiments, and a preliminary drill was being held for that occasion on the morrow. The ceremony, a very impressive one, takes place in the centre of a hollow square, the troops facing in; and to the imposing and patriotic strains of the national anthem the colors are unfurled.

To write that a peregrination through this whole country is beautiful and inspiring is to feebly express the charm of it all. The pleasure, too, of spending a day in the field with our citizen soldiery in the midst of such magnificent and heart-stirring scenery is great; and it brings a satisfaction and uplift to the mind that should cause thousands to visit this neighborhood.

Those who sojourn in Quebec, whether for weeks or months, will find no want of varied amusements. There are walks too numerous to mention where wild flower, the song of the bird and the music of the gushing rill and rocky fall enliven every step of the way. Boating may be carried on almost everywhere, and canoes may be placed on dozens of waters that are either quiet or rippling; according to choice. The interior lands of this district are the very best for hunting purposes; and many of the larger rivers are splendid salmon waters. In all of the surrounding streams and in the pure waters of the adjacent lakes lovers of trout fishing will find ample occupation and unstinted reward. Motor-boating, automobiling, golf, tennis, and all the sports of the field may be enjoyed here to their full; while as a centre or starting place for railroad and steamboat trips and tours in every direction Quebec assuredly takes first place.

Murray Bay River