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 CANDACE WHEELER. From the painting by her daughter Dora Wheeler Keith Frontispiece

 MOCCASINS OF PORCUPINE QUILLWORK. Made by Sioux Indians Facing 12

 PIPE BAGS OF PORCUPINE QUILLWORK. Made by Sioux Indians 12

 MAN'S JACKET OF PORCUPINE QUILLWORK. Made by Sioux Indians 14

 MAN'S JACKET OF PORCUPINE QUILLWORK. Made by Plains Indians 14

 CREWEL DESIGN, drawn and colored, which dates back to Colonial times 18

 TESTER embroidered in crewels in shades of blue on white homespun linen. Said to have been brought to Essex, Mass., in 1640, by Madam Susanna, wife of Sylvester Eveleth 22

 RAISED EMBROIDERY ON BLACK VELVET. Nineteenth century American 22

 QUILTED COVERLET made by Ann Gurnee 26

 HOMESPUN WOOLEN BLANKET with King George's Crown embroidered with home-dyed blue yarn in the corner. From the Burdette home at Fort Lee, N. J., where Washington was entertained 26

 CHEROKEE ROSE BLANKET, made about 1830, of homespun wool with "Indian Rose" design about nineteen inches in diameter worked in the corners in home-dyed yarns of black, red, yellow, and dark green. From the Westervelt collection 26

 BED SET, Keturah Baldwin pattern, designed, dyed, and worked by The Deerfield Society of Blue and White Needlework, Deerfield, Mass. 32

 BED COVERS worked in candle wicking 32

 SAMPLER worked by Adeline Bryant in 1826, now in the possession of Anna D. Trowbridge, Hackensack, N. J. 50

 SAMPLER embroidered in colors on écru linen, by Mary Ann Marley, aged twelve, August 30, 1820 52

 SAMPLER embroidered in brown on écru linen, by Martha Carter Fitzhugh, of Virginia, in 1793, and left unfinished at her death 52

 SAMPLER worked by Christiana Baird. Late eighteenth century American 54

 MEMORIAL PIECE worked in silks, on white satin. Sacred to the memory of Major Anthony Morse, who died March 22, 1805 54

 SAMPLER of Moravian embroidery, worked in 1806, by Sarah Ann Smith, of Smithtown, L. I. 54

 SAMPLER worked by Nancy Dennis, Argyle, N. Y., in 1810 56

 SAMPLER worked by Nancy McMurray, of Salem, N. Y., in 1793 56

 PETIT POINT PICTURE which belonged to President John Quincy Adams, and now in the Dwight M. Prouty collection 56

 SAMPLER in drawnwork, écru linen thread, made by Anne Gower, wife of Gov. John Endicott, before 1628 60

 SAMPLER embroidered in dull colors on écru canvas by Mary Holingworth, wife of Philip English, Salem merchant, married July, 1675, accused of witchcraft in 1692, but escaped to New York 60

 SAMPLER worked by Hattie Goodeshall, who was born February 19, 1780, in Bristol 60

 NEEDLEBOOK of Moravian embroidery made about 1850, now in the possession of Mrs. J. N. Myers, Bethlehem, Pa. 64

 MORAVIAN EMBROIDERY worked by Emily E. Reynolds, Plymouth, Pa., in 1834, at the age of twelve, while at the Moravian Seminary in Bethlehem, and now owned by her granddaughter 64

 MORAVIAN EMBROIDERY from Louisville, Ky. 66

 LINEN TOWELS embroidered in cross-stitch. Pennsylvania Dutch early nineteenth century 70

 "THE MEETING OF ISAAC AND REBECCA"—Moravian embroidered picture, an heirloom in the Reichel family of Bethlehem, Pa. Worked by Sarah Kummer about 1790 74

 "SUFFER LITTLE CHILDREN TO COME UNTO ME"—Cross-stitch picture made about 1825, now in the possession of the Beckel family, Bethlehem, Pa. 74

 ABRAHAM AND ISAAC. Kensington embroidery by Mary Winifred Hoskins, of Edenton, N. C., while attending an English finishing school in Baltimore in 1814 76

 FIRE SCREEN embroidered in cross-stitch worsted 78

 FIRE SCREEN, design, "The Scottish Chieftain," embroidered in cross-stitch by Mrs. Mary H. Cleveland Allen 78

 FIRE SCREEN worked about 1850 by Miss C. A. Granger, of Canandaigua, N. Y. 78

 EMBROIDERED PICTURE in silks, with a painted sky 80

 CORNELIA AND THE GRACCHI. Embroidered picture in silks, with velvet inlaid, worked by Mrs. Lydia Very, of Salem, at the age of sixteen while at Mrs. Peabody's school 80

 CAPE of white lawn embroidered. Nineteenth century American 84

 COLLARS of white muslin embroidered. Nineteenth century American 84

 BABY'S CAP. White mull, with eyelet embroidery. Nineteenth century American 86

 BABY'S CAP. Embroidered mull. 1825 86

 COLLAR of white embroidered muslin. Nineteenth century American 86

 EMBROIDERED SILK WEDDING WAISTCOAT, 1829. From the Westervelt collection 88

 EMBROIDERED WAIST OF A BABY DRESS, 1850. From the collection of Mrs. George Coe 88

 EMBROIDERY ON NET. Border for the front of a cap made about 1820 90

 VEIL (unfinished) hand run on machine-made net. American nineteenth century 90

 LACE WEDDING VEIL, 36 × 40 inches, used in 1806. From the collection of Mrs. Charles H. Lozier 92

 HOMESPUN LINEN NEEDLEWORK called "Benewacka" by the Dutch. The threads were drawn and then whipped into a net on which the design was darned with linen. Made about 1800 and used in the end of linen pillow cases 92

 BED HANGING of polychrome cross-stitch appliquéd on blue woolen ground 98

 NEEDLEPOINT SCREEN made in fine and coarse point. Single cross-stitch 98

 HAND-WOVEN TAPESTRY of fine and coarse needlepoint 100

 TAPESTRY woven on a hand loom. The design worked in fine point and the background coarse point. A new effect in hand weave originated at the Edgewater Tapestry Looms 100

 EMBROIDERED MITS 104

 WHITE COTTON VEST embroidered in colors. Eighteenth-nineteenth century American 104

 WHITE MULL embroidered in colors. Eighteenth-nineteenth century American 104

 EMBROIDERED VALANCE, part of set and spread for high-post bedstead, 1788. Worked in crewels on India cotton, by Mrs. Gideon Granger, Canandaigua, New York 104

 DETAIL of linen coverlet worked in colored wool 108

 LINEN COVERLET embroidered in Kensington stitch with colored wool 108

 QUILTED COVERLET worked entirely by hand 118

 DETAIL of quilted coverlet 118

 THE WINGED MOON. Designed by Dora Wheeler and executed in needle-woven tapestry by The Associated Artists, 1883 122

 SEVENTEENTH CENTURY DESIGN TAPESTRY PANEL 126

 THE MIRACULOUS DRAUGHT OF FISHES. Arranged (from photographs made in London of the original cartoon by Raphael, in the Kensington Museum) by Candace Wheeler and executed in needle-woven tapestry by The Associated Artists 130

 MINNEHAHA LISTENING TO THE WATERFALL. Drawn by Dora Wheeler and executed in needle-woven tapestry by The Associated Artists, 1884 132

 APHRODITE. Designed by Dora Wheeler for needle-woven tapestry worked by The Associated Artists, 1883 134

 FIGHTING DRAGONS. Drawn by Candace Wheeler and embroidered by The Associated Artists, 1885 140

 THREE SCENES FROM THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY 146

The Development of Embroidery in America

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