Читать книгу Heavenly Fragrance - Carol Selva Selva Rajah - Страница 7
ОглавлениеIf your childhood memories are stirred by the gentle aromas of parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme, as well as by a Simon and Garfunkel ballad, then you are clearly a child of the West. If, on the other hand, memories of your mother’s kitchen are summoned by the citrusy perfume of kaffir lime, the freshness of Chinese celery, the peppery blast of basil, the comforting softness of coriander, and the pepper and lemony aromas of curry leaves and sweet lemongrass, then you are a child of the East. It is the variety of herbs, the leaves and flowers of plants, that separates the cuisines of Europe and Asia.
I think the place to understand the strident tones that tropical herbs create is in an Asian market. Everything is loud, colorful and “in your face” here. A gaggle of geese, ducks in cages, the flower lady advertising her wares in her loudest voice—hoping to drown out the hot tofu seller next door. Walk past the fish stall, and above the cacophony of market calls you will hear the screech of the auctioneer. Stand still and breathe deeply. There is nothing subtle about this at all. It is raw and vocal. So are the herbs—strong, pungent, perfumed, aromatic and unforgettable—there is nothing bashful about the herbs of the tropics. You are reminded of countless curry meals in the roadside stalls of Thailand and the fried kway teow hawkers cooking their noodles with abandon in the night markets of Malaysia. Bunches of herbs are plucked hastily and thrown into a mee krob salad, or into a biting-red chili crab dish.
The Asian cook blends many ingredients together to make a dish. Imagine the cook as a builder starting from the foundation and working upwards, with garlic and hot oil forming the base of the structure. From there, as each ingredient is browned and releases its fragrance, other contrasting ingredients such as onion or chili are added. And so different aromatic layers and enticing flavors are added—one on top of the other—to provide an extraordinary blend.
In the West, flowers are cut for decoration and their perfumes waft through the house. In the East, flowers are more likely than not cut for the kitchen, and their fragrance is distilled and decanted into foods and dining rooms. It is true that in the West one might find candied violets by a grandmother’s bedside, or peppery-tasting nasturtium leaves in the salads of Vogue readers—but the former is rarely seen these days and the latter is subject to the whims of fashion. In Asia, banana blossoms and ginger flowers release their floral grassy or cinnamon-like gingery scents, always distinctive, into fish sambals and krabu herbal salads on a daily basis. These dishes are as commonplace and as widely prepared as a Western Caesar Salad, a Salad Nicoise or a Lebanese Tabouli.
A wise cook once told me that the main difference between spices and herbs is that you go out to buy spices whereas you grow herbs in your garden. In other words, herbs are more accessible and freshly available if you grow them in a pot or devote a tiny garden bed to your most commonly used varieties. I believe the most beautiful herb in the world is the statuesque “Jerry Hall” of herbs—the ginger flower, locally known as bunga kantan. It grows tall and straight, blossoming out and facing toward the sun, then curving inward again, like hands cupped in prayer. The aroma is unbelievably subtle—containing the perfume of ginger and roses, slightly peppery, with a touch of cinnamon, jas-mine and sweet chilies. The ginger flower has a stunning cherry-colored heart that slowly lightens into pink, fading into warm creamy-yellow petals.
A shrimp sambal or a salad cooked with chopped ginger flower makes all these wonderful aromas come alive at once in the mixture. I have witnessed an amazing Balinese salad called babi guling —roast suckling pig with many herbs and vegetables including chopped ginger flower. The ginger flower perfume was so infused into the dish that diners couldn’t resist bending forward to inhale the wondrous scents as the dish was served. Now wouldn’t you think a ginger flower is something worth exploring?
Lemongrass grows in a prolific clump like tall grass. The root clump divides into many individual stalks and each one produces a fat, juicy, lemony, fragrant bulb that can be harvested and used to perfume your curries, or ground into aromatic sambals, drinks and teas. Vietnamese mint grows like the Triffids spreading their minty, peppery roots into any available space! You will find that most herbs can grow in a semi-tropical or Mediterranean climate, and when disturbed by the wind, gives you that wonderful aroma evocative of the Tropics, that is certainly worth cultivating if you can.
Fresh herbs, especially the trusty lemongrass and ginger, are unbelievable in their aroma, intensity and staying power. Even after being cooked, a sauce or sambal made with fresh herbs can always be picked out and a trained palate can always distinguish between the crunch of lemongrass or the bite of curry leaf or even the sweet, suffering touch of pepper-like Vietnamese mint.
Although I may wax lyrical about fresh herbs, I realize that in many communities, and even in the large cities, they may not be available, especially in winter. So feel free to use dried herbs if you must, making sure you check the use-by date. It’s better to use a dried herb than no herb at all. Enjoy an herbal experience whenever you can and enjoy their perfumes in your food and in your life!
Asian basils ~
On my first trip to Thailand many years ago, I attended a class with Charlie Amatyakul, the chef at the Oriental Hotel Cooking School. Charlie’s set-up was ideal—small groups of students, an extensive working space and exclusive attendees. While I wondered what I would be doing, in came the ingredients in large bowls and we started touching, feeling, smelling and sorting them. Soon the whole classroom turned into an aromatic atrium filled with the fragrances of aniseed, mint, citrus and rose. It was a shock to the system although I had used most of these herbs in my cooking before. But never in such profusion or variety. Basil was the first herb I picked up and held to my nose with my eyes closed. The scent of the leaves was comforting, sharp and almost healing—I had never taken notice of such a strong aroma from this herb. I looked again; this was what Charlie called Thai basil: red veins giving way to dark purple florets and firm green leaves. This was the beginning of my own love affair with Thai basil, the herb that is used whenever Thai food is cooked. The bite of the leaf produces a surprising flavor and aroma at the back of the throat; pleasant and memorable.
A bunch of fresh dark green basil sprigs held in your hands and pressed to your nostrils to release the peppery aniseed aroma is about as close as you can get to the aroma of hospitality. It is one of the oldest herbs in cultivation, used by many of the world’s cooks both in Europe and Asia. There are many different basils used in different regions of the world. The European basil is slightly different, with hairier stems and droopy leaves.
Asian basils come in three different varieties. The most common of the three has an intense aroma and is generally known as Thai basil (horapa in Thai; daun kemangi in Malaysia and Indonesia). Lemon-scented basil (manglak in Thai) is usually cooked rather than eaten raw. Holy basil or kaprow in Thai has a strong, sharp aroma and is used only in a few dishes. It is so called because the Hindus consider it sacred. A basil plant brought to a new home brings blessings, said a Croatian friend of mine when she walked into my new house—a good indication that traditions of herbs in food are found both in the East and West dating back to ancient times.
Purchasing: Look for brightly-colored, fresh basil with leaves that stand firm, without any hint of wilting. If you press a leaf between your fingers, this should release a strong aroma.
Culinary uses Used in stir-fries, in salads with each leaf picked and tossed together with other ingredients, or as a garnish for steamed fish. A Basil Pesto is easy to prepare: process 1 cup (40 g) of chopped fresh basil, 1/2 cup (125 ml) of olive oil, 2–3 cloves of garlic and 2 green finger-length chili peppers (deseeded) with 6 macadamia nuts in a food processor until smooth, then season with salt and pepper to taste. This Pesto may be used as a stir-fry starter with garlic and ginger, or added to a curry paste for an extra “bite,” or served as a dip with cheese and yogurt.
Preparation: Wash and dry the leaves well. Tender leaves can be used but separate the leaves from the harder stems.
Storing: Wrap the leaves (still on the stems) in paper towels and refrigerate in a covered container or sealed plastic bag for 2–3 days. If the stems droop, refresh them in ice cold water for a couple of hours before using.
Substitutes: European basil is a good substitute though it may not have as much bite and aroma as the Asian basil. And you may have to use more than the required amount or grind it for more aroma and flavor.
Banana leaves, flowers and stems ~
Every part of the banana plant can be used: the leaves, flower, fruit and stems. The banana leaf—dark green and about 3 feet (1 meter) long—grows like a long and wide palm leaf and is commonly used to cover or wrap foods in Asia. It has a light grassy and wax-like aroma that transfers to any food cooked in it and is used as the natural “aluminum foil” of the East. In Asian homes, banana leaf is a sensual steaming wrapper for rice, fish or meat smeared with some lemongrass, garlic and other herbs. The steaming cooks the food and imparts the subtle perfume of the light, grassy leaf which adds an unmatched aroma.
A common dish of rice cooked with coconut milk and garnished with curried shrimp, then folded and steamed in a banana leaf has an unmistakable perfume that is irresistable to the diner. The many aromas of this dish, called nasi lemak, coalesce to form an unforgettable moment of sensory indulgence. By contrast, the unopened male flower of the banana plant is a popular vegetable throughout tropical Asia, like a fragrant cabbage. It can be found in specialty stores outside Asia, particularly those stocking Vietnamese and Thai ingredients.
Purchasing: Both banana leaves and flowers are obtainable from Asian markets. Look for the leaves wrapped in large bundles. They are usually sold by weight, with the thick center ribs removed and the leaf portions folded. The flowers should be fresh and firm, without any wilting.
Culinary uses: Because of their natural wax content, banana leaves make ideal wrappers for food and are even used to provide a wax coating on irons, to make ironing easier! They are also used as decorations for the table and as plates. In Indian vegetarian homes and restaurants, banana leaves are the preferred service platters because no meat has previously touched them. According to Indian etiquette, the rib edge should be placed at the head of the table setting, away from the diner. After eating, the leaf is folded away to indicate that you have finished eating. If you fold it the other way it means you want a second helping. Cooked banana flowers are often made into salads in Southeast Asia. Blanched fine shreds can be added to dressings and soups, or simmered in seasoned coconut milk.
Preparation: Remove and discard the thick central rib of the banana leaf and use only the flat leafy part. Before using it to wrap food, blanch the leaf in a basin of boiling water for a few seconds or heat it directly over a flame to make it pliable for easy folding. A toothpick or skewer threaded through the end is often the only thing needed to hold wrapped parcels together. To prepare the banana flower, pull off the outer petals and the long, narrow yellow blossoms until the pinkish white inner heart is revealed. Then use the heart as instructed in the recipes.
Storing: The leaves and flower will keep in a loosely packed plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Substitutes: Bamboo shoots or cabbage can be used in place of banana flower for a crunchy texture. A good substitute for wrapping purposes is lotus leaf or aluminum foil.
Coriander leaves ~ cilantro
The coriander leaf, almost mandatory in Asian cooking, has the most complex of herb flavors: it is spicy, citrusy with hints of lime, and almost pungent and curry-like, all at the same time. Fresh coriander leaves are invigorating— warm and minty in flavor and perfume—although the roots are peppery and bitter.
Someone not familiar with the aroma of coriander leaf may find it overpowering. When I was a child, we used it copiously in our home, but I would shy away from the aroma. The warm and minty herb reminded me of the stinkbug, and as I later found out, the name “coriandrum” indeed means stinkbugs, which perhaps explains the aversion I had to the herb!
It is a popular herb used in all types of Asian dishes, from soups to salads. It’s a useful herb to have in the garden and is readily available in both Eastern and Western markets since the Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Mexican cuisines all use it copiously. All parts of the coriander plant are used. The leaves are used as a garnish or in curries, the seeds are used in curry pastes in Creole and Mexican cooking, and the pungent roots are mainly ground into Thai curries. This was the original heat enhancer for “spicy” foods along with ginger and pepper before chili peppers came to Asia.
To sniff deeply of a coriander plant is a refreshing experience as the aromas of pepper and lime combine with the lingering aroma of aniseed. I have noticed that a simple steak cooked with a bit of garlic and onion is transformed into something special when a few coriander leaves are thrown into the pan just before the meat is done. The same goes for chicken dishes. There is a lightness in coriander leaves that lifts the meat. Yet when it is used with seafood, a different kind of aroma is produced, raising an awareness of lemon this time. Perhaps this happens unconsciously, as we often think of mixing lime and lemon with seafood. However when I add coriander stems, leaves and ground roots to a green shrimp curry, the final result always astonishes my guests.
Purchasing: Always buy the whole plants with roots attached, as they keep better that way. The leaves should be fresh and bright, not droopy, and the stems should be firm.
Culinary uses: Fresh leaves are often chopped and added to salads and fillings in Asia cuisines, or ground and added to spice pastes in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. They are also commonly used as an edible garnish in soups and noodle dishes. To use the leaves, do not chop them unless you want the flavors to diffuse with the cooking. They are best added just before the end of the cooking as the leaves are the most pungent and flavorsome then. Try not to use the stems. When stems are ground into a curry, especially green curry, David Thompson refers to the result as “muddy.” The Thais use the roots in their curries because of its pungent peppery flavor.
A simple recipe for Coriander Leaf Pesto: Storing Process 2 cups (80 g) chopped coriander leaves, 1–2 deseeded green Asian finger-length chili peppers and 1 cup (100 g) grated coconut to a smooth paste in a food processor, then season with the juice of 1 lime and add sugar and salt to taste. Use it as you would a regular pesto, or turn it into a sauce for steamed or baked fish by adding some coconut milk to it.
Preparation: Wash and dry the leaves well, then use them either whole, chopped or ground, as instructed in the recipes.
Storing: Wrap the plants loosely in paper towels and store in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. Store any leftover leaves or roots in the freezer in foil. To refresh a droopy plant, soak it in ice water before using. In a mild Mediterranean climate, it is possible to grow this herb in pots which can be picked fresh for your enjoyment as needed.
Substitutes: Dried coriander leaves do not have the wonderful flavor and aroma of fresh ones, although they can be used.
Curry leaves ~
A relative of the orange blossom, these leaves have a distinctive lemon-pepper fragrance with tinges of lime and ginger that may contribute to the impression that it is “curry-like.” It is today associated with South Indian and Southeast Asian curries, especially in combination with coriander, cumin, fennel, ginger and chili peppers.
The curry leaf plant grows only to the height of a small bush in equatorial Malaya, but can grow much taller in more temperate regions. I remember being quite confused as a child when I read about explorers traveling through the forests of north India. Their elephants reached up to chew on some aromatic branches which filled the forest with the perfume of curry, lime and pepper. It was difficult to imagine this as our curry leaf plant at home in tropical Malaysia barely reached 2 feet (60 cm)! It was only when I grew a curry leaf plant in my backyard in Sydney that I realized the plant positively thrives in temperate climates, perfuming the surrounding area with its seductive aroma.
There are different ways to use the curry leaves to vary their aroma and flavor. Dried curry leaves have very little flavor compared to fresh leaves, and should only be used when fresh leaves are unavailable. Reconstitute the dried leaves by soaking them in warm water, then add them to curries, omelets and salads. Another way to heighten the flavor is through the Indian trick of heating some oil and frying the curry leaves very quickly so they crisp and infuse the oil with flavor. When they are shallow-fried with onions and added to omelets and other dishes, they release a different flavor, which is just as effective, yet lighter in aroma.
Purchasing: Fresh almond-shaped leaves are generally sold on the stem, and are sometimes picked and packed in plastic bags. Look for green and firm, fresh-looking leaves.
Culinary uses: Curry leaves may be chopped or ground into a simple pesto (page 30) and are used in many traditional Southeast Asian and Indian dishes. To enhance the flavor of curry leaves, cover them with 2 teaspoons of oil and microwave or fry for 2 minutes until crisp. These crispy-fried leaves are ideal as a garnish for curries, salads and Indian dal recipes.
Preparation: Wash and dry the sprigs, then pull the leaves off the stems before using.
Storing: Wrap in several layers of damp paper towels and refrigerate in a covered container for up to 2 weeks. Freeze in the same way as coriander leaves.
Substitutes: Dried curry leaves, though not as fragrant, can be used, or substitute fresh coriander leaves instead.
Garlic chives ~
Also known as Chinese or Asian chives, this vegetable is indigenous to Siberia, Mongolia and northern China. As its name implies, garlic chives have a strong garlicky aroma and flavor. Regular garlic chives resemble coarse, flat blades of dark green grass. An exception to this is flowering chives, which have an unopened flower or bud at the tip of their long, slender stalks.
Sliced garlic chives, with a hint of garlic and grassy flavors with a peppery edge, are the perfect addition to any noodle dish. For an awesome aromatic hit, uncover noodles which have “sweated” in a wok full of garlic chives, and you will be struck by a wave of grassy garlic and crisp-frying onion aromas.
My favorites are the dark-green, flat-stemmed garlic chives, which are quite unlike the tiny, round-stemmed chives common in Western cooking. Their garlicky aroma, the main ingredient in the Malaysian char kway teow noodle dish and Chili Crabs, makes this an invaluable herb in my vegetable garden. Light green garlic chives are cultivated by covering the plant with black plastic bags to prevent the sunlight from reaching them. This reduces the chlorophyll in the plant and produces a lighter color, but does not affect the flavor.
Garlic chives can be domestically cultivated in large pots if you find yourself as addicted to the herb as I do. The chives may be used instead of green onions in any dish. I use them finely chopped in omelets instead of fried garlic and onion. Garlic chives also form the aromatic basis for many Chinese dim sums such as pork dumplings, which are commonly found in yum cha trolleys, and in the chive pancakes cooked in northern China.
Purchasing: Garlic chives are normally sold in bunches. Look for bright green ones. They should be firm and dry, with crisp lower ends that snap if bent. Avoid any that have rotted and become “slimy.”
Culinary uses: Garlic chives are used mainly in Chinese and Korean cooking. They have a strong flavor when raw but become more delicate after cooking. The pale, golden type called yellow chives, are prized for their delicate flavor. They are often added to soups, noodles and stir-fries, or minced and added to dumpling fillings. Flower chives are stir-fried and used as a garnish because of their decorative appearance.
Preparation: Take the whole bunch apart and look at each stem. Discard any stems that are brown or wilted. Rinse well and drain. Trim the hard bottom portions of the stems and use the rest as instructed in the recipes.
Storing: Store garlic chives in the refrigerator for 1–2 days, wrapped in paper towels or sealed in plastic bags or in airtight containers to prevent their strong garlic aroma from impregnating other foods.
Substitutes: Green onions or Western chives can be substituted for garlic chives but they will not give the same distinctive garlicky aroma and flavor.
Ginger flower ~ bunga kantan
This edible flower bud is an amazingly perfumed herb— statuesque, beautifully colored and well-proportioned, with exquisite aromas of floral ginger and lemony rose and a musk-and-strawberry sweetness. With its startling pink, red-edged leaves reaching up to a sharp point with yellow flame-like streaks, it is not only one of the most attractive of Asian herbs but the most aromatic as well, with a perfume that remains even when it is chopped into salads or ground into a curry paste.
The ginger flower has a stem as thick as a man’s thumb with leaves pointing to the sky like a pair of folded, praying hands. And the aroma? Think of ginger ale, lemony rosewater from the sharbat drinks of Persia, and a whiff of jasmine as you breathe in deeper. This spectacular flower is very uncommon in countries outside the tropics, although it has been growing sucessfully in sub-tropical Darwin and Queensland (Australia) for several years. It flowers along with the other gingers used in Queensland for desserts and pickling, although this particular ginger is not used in Western food. The Thais, Malaysians and Laotians use it quite a lot—ground up into curries and chopped up in salads—where the aroma is unmistakable in its fresh form. It seems almost a desecration to chop up something so beautiful, if the ginger flower arrives fully-formed in the kitchen, although by the time they have arrived at the markets of Asia, you will find some of the petals marked, damaged and blackened through rough handling. Sometimes soaking them in a solution of sugar water helps restore the shape and the quality of the flower. However, for eating, it does not matter if the flower reaches you slighty damaged, as it is either going to be chopped up or processed.
The torch ginger plant is one of the many varieties of ginger flowering plants. It produces the pink flower in the midst of long, thin sheaths. The entire plant can grow up to 16 feet (5 meters) in height, so expect to find large ginger flowers up to about 8–12 in (20–30 cm) long and 3 in (8 cm) thick. You may find smaller ginger flowers in the market, but treat them all in the same way. Scratch the surface of the flower and sniff it—if you get a strong, perfumed gingery aroma, you are on the right track.
Purchasing: Look for this flower in Asian markets. I was surprised to find it in that Ali Baba’s cave of shopping, the Ka De Wa in Berlin, sitting alongside fresh lemongrass stems, galangal roots and a durian, of all things. Choose fresh-looking buds without too much wilting or browning at the edges.
Culinary uses: This flower is an essential ingredient for many Malaysian and Nonya salads, curries, rojak and laksa, and also for the Thai nam prik mixture (a spicy dip) and many Vietnamese dishes. It is best to add chopped ginger flower at the end of cooking, so its flavor and aroma are retained.
Preparation: Wash the buds and in between each of the stems that make up the central core, then halve and slice each bud finely, discarding the stems.
Storing: The ginger flower has a shelf life of about a week. Wrap it in several layers of paper towels and store in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. You can freeze the flower, but bring it to room temperature naturally, not in a microwave. However, freezing destroys some of the flavor and aroma. Substitutes: A mixture of lemongrass and young ginger slices.
Kaffir lime and lime leaves ~
Words of wisdom from Amah (nanny) hinged around the fact that the sweetest and tastiest things in life are always thorny. And we learned that lesson early in our lives with the thorny durians—the thorniest fruits invariably produced the sweetest flesh. It was therefore easy to infer that the thorniest kaffir lime leaves were the most flavorful. My kaffir lime tree has survived three transplants and is still producing the glossiest and most perfect hourglass-shaped leaves with as many thorns as leaves.
Kaffir lime leaves are prized for their distinctive incense-like aroma and sharp citrus oils. When the leaves are pressed together between the fingers, sweetish lower notes of orange and clove underpin the immediate top notes of citrus and lime, giving way to a wonderful blend of aromas that translate into flavors when they are used as garnishes and in curries. They can also be crushed or ground to release the oils for use in sambals and sauces, especially Thai green curries and Malaysian laksas, adding top notes to the coriander and pepper garnishes used.
Kaffir lime leaves are versatile in their uses, adapting to Western as well as Eastern recipes. You can use them as fine garnishes in seafood salads and pastas; their strong citrus flavor will give a perfect balance in any recipe where lemon or lime are required.
Purchasing: Kaffir lime leaves are easily spotted for their distinct female hourglass figure. Look for plastic packets of fresh, green and glossy kaffir lime leaves in Asian stores. Don’t buy them on the stems as you will be paying for extra weight. Although dried or frozen leaves as well as essence and powder are available, try to use fresh leaves for their superior aroma and flavor.
Culinary uses: Kaffir limes are small limes with a very rough and intensely fragrant skin, but virtually no juice. The rind or skin is often grated and added to dishes as a seasoning. The fragrant leaves are added whole to soups and curries, or finely shredded and added to salads or deep-fried fish cakes, giving a wonderfully tangy taste to these dishes.
Preparation: When cutting fine strips as a garnish, first remove and discard the central veins of the leaves. Roll several of them into a tight cylinder and slice them very thinly using a very sharp knife. These fine strips are attractive when used as a garnish on salads, seafood dishes and even on lime ice cream or a Lime and Mint Granita Sorbet (page 77). I use kaffir lime shreds to garnish onion and garlic omelets and laksa. When flavoring curries, use whole leaves and add them during the last minute of cooking. Mincing or finely chopping the leaves may overpower the other delicate flavors in the dish.
Storing: Freeze fresh leaves in a plastic bag. Even though they will lose their dark-green color and turn a muddy brown when frozen, the flavors are retained and are just as effective for daily use. Kaffir lime tree can be potted successfully in both tropical and temperate climates, but grow better in the ground. The leaves may wilt or turn yellow and drop in winter, but they grow back green and glossy in spring.
Substitutes: Dried kaffir lime leaves are a poor substitute. Young lemon, lime or even grapefruit leaves may be used as a last resort.
Lemongrass ~
Dig into a thick lemongrass stem and the sweet and effervescent aroma of citrus-lime obliterates everything else. It is a comforting and lingering perfume reminiscent of the kitchens and gardens of tropical Asia. Although it can be used in many combinations, care should be taken not to overpower this scent with too much shrimp paste or other invasive aromas.
The lemongrass I was familiar with at home was the one we grew in our backyard in Malaysia. As a child, I helped to prepare the pastes used to make curries, long before I set off for school. A favorite chore of mine was to cut one or two plump stalks from the clump, remove the outer skins and then grind them in a mortar. The strong scent of this herb would fill my nostrils and cover my hands, leaving the citrusy oils on my palms for the rest of the day. What a wonderful difference from the sharp aromas of garlic and ginger that I normally had to work with! I often wore the perfumes from my garden to school. Lemongrass was naturally my favorite scent.
When I moved to Australia, my mother couldn’t bring in fresh lemongrass. She used to brine the stalks and bring them in as salted pickles so that we could make curry pastes from these brined herbs. This was never satisfactory but we managed as best we could. Imagine my delight and surprise when I whiffed the delicious citrusy scent of lemongrass as I walked past the school ground—one of my Vietnamese students in Canley Vale was savoring a bowl of noodles with the aroma of fresh lemongrass. It used to surprise me when I found out that people in Perth drank lemongrass tea.
Lemongrass has been in Asia for centuries, growing wild on the fringes of the tropical forests. Locals must have discovered their scented lemon aroma, perhaps by brushing against the leaves of the main clump that would have grown like tropical elephant grass. Today, this citrus-scented, lemony herb is used all over the world wherever Thai and other Southeast Asian foods are cooked.
The fragrant grass grows in clumps to a height of 20 in (50 cm). The lemony aroma comes from the tightly-packed, creamy-colored lower part of the stem and up to 4 in (10 cm) of the stalk; these have the most flavor and aroma. Lemongrass should be used when fresh and juicy; once the stems dry out they lose their aroma and flavor and appear woody. The thinner top leaves may be used for tea or for a soup stock (as I found out a long time ago). If lemongrass is your favorite herb, you can grow it in pots and use it throughout the year.
Purchasing: Choose firm stems that end in fat bulbs with no signs of wilting.
Culinary uses: Lemongrass is ground with garlic, galangal, onion and chili pepper into a paste used to make curries and soups. Its distinctive aroma is best complemented with the use of coconut milk. Very finely-sliced lemongrass is often used raw in salads and bruised lengths of the stem are also added to some soups and curries for flavoring. The entire stem, trimmed to a point, can also be used as an aromatic skewer for grilling meats and seafood. In Thai, Cambodian and Laotian temples, lemongrass tea has been served for years as a calmative. Dried lemongrass stems are also used in cupboards and meat safes as an insect repellent. Replace after two months.
Preparation: Use only the inner part of the thick bulb of the stem (the bottom one-third of the stem). Peel off and discard the tough outer leaves to get to the portion, then bruise, slice, chop or grind as directed in the recipe.
Storing: Stand the stems in a glass with their ends in water and keep in a warm place, or wrap stalks of them in paper towels and refrigerate. Lemongrass keeps for 2 weeks in this manner. Do not freeze them.
Substitutes: Sliced lime leaves or sliced lime or lemon rind can be substituted.
Mint ~
A breath freshener and a touch of spring—all in a mint leaf. As one of the most favored herbs—I have found mint invaluable when cooking Indian food—it is not only used in pharmaceutical products such as toothpaste and mouth-fresheners, lotions and bath soaps, but has even invaded the massage tables of spas. It is impossible to imagine that mint has taken on such importance from being a humble aromatic herb that grows wild near taps and garden hoses. Unchecked mint plants can become invasive in temperate gardens. For a long time, mint has always been a very useful and prized herb in Asia, used not only in cooking but also as an insect repellent and potpourri in the cupboards of Nonyas (Straits Chinese) in Malacca.
There are many varieties of mint; peppermint and spearmint are the most common. Peppermint has a strong, true mint flavor and is used mainly in pharmaceuticals and candy. Asians prefer the type of mint which has dark-green, crinkly round leaves, sometimes called Moroccan mint. Asians also use spearmint—the Vietnamese add them to bowls of pho noodles while Thais use them for stuffing fish or cooking shrimp. In this book, spearmint is used in the recipe for Grilled Beef Parcels with Thai Herbs (page 34).
Purchasing: Look for fresh leaves on green stems, with strong aromas of mint.
Culinary uses: Mint often forms a part of Asian table salads and is used as a garnish for laksa and curries, especially those made with fish. It is also an ingredient in Vietnamese spring rolls. Mint Pesto (page 30) can be made with mint as the main ingredient instead of curry leaves. You may have to use a dash of lime juice to keep the refreshing flavors intact. Mint is also a well-known calmative and a cure for nausea. A little mint infused in hot water for 2 minutes is an ideal drink to have when you’re stressed.
Preparation: Pull the leaves from the stems just before using and always garnish with whole leaves unless otherwise stated in the recipe.
Storing: Mint leaves keep well when left on the stem. Wrap the mint leaves in paper towels enclosed in a plastic bag and refrigerate as you would other herbs.
Substitute: Use 1 tablespoon dried mint leaves in place of 1/4 cup (10 g) fresh leaves.
Pandanus leaves ~ daun pandan
Pandanus leaves, described as the “vanilla of the East,” have been used for generations because their subtle grassy fragrance combine with the freshness of mint and rich coconut. Though a member of the pandanus palm family, this plant is a far cry from the stiff and thorny cactus-like spikes of the pandanus. The glossy green domestic pandanus leaves are narrow, spear-like and pliant, with a firm central vein. Their distinctive and subtle grassy aroma is only released when the leaves are bruised, twisted or ground into a paste.
Pandanus leaves grow in small clumps in domestic gardens in Southeast Asia, where they are used in a variety of dishes—from drinks, jellies, meat and fish dishes to rice dishes and desserts—and also in many domestic applications. Asians are fond of green colored foods and drinks dyed with pandanus juice pressed from the ground pandanus leaves. As a child, I used to be intrigued by my mother’s Nonya friends and their pandanus-perfumed face powder. The powder was made from rice flour ground in an intricate process until it was so fine it could pass through the finest muslin. The pandanus juice was then added and the strained drops piped onto sheets of greaseproof paper where they would be dried in the sun. To use it, they mixed a little bit of water with a drop of the rice powder and spread it on the face. You could always tell a true Nonya lady from the subtle perfume of the pandanus rice powder that she wore. In my memory, this is the aroma of hospitality, of New Year cakes and good cooking.
The Fragrant Pandanus Coconut Rice (nasi lemak — see page 103) served with various sambals in Malaysia, Indonesia and the rest of Southeast Asia is often perfumed with the addition of pandanus leaf, which is added to the rice as it cooks.
Purchasing: Pandanus leaves are usually sold in a bundle in Asian markets. But they are either sold frozen or in powdered form in other parts of the world. When buying, always look for firm glossy-green, juicy leaves.
Culinary uses: In Southeast Asia, pandanus leaves are mainly used for their fragrance in desserts and meat and rice dishes, while the green juice is also used to provide a bright green color to foods. Whole pandanus leaves are also used as wrappers or containers for food. They are folded into elaborate origami-like containers to hold coconut custard cakes which are steamed to create a delightful perfumed dessert. In many exotic street markets, it is possible to find streets stalls which offer grilled seafood snacks wrapped in pandanus leaves. You don’t have to look for these snacks, the aromas will lead you to them!
Preparation: For maximum effect, always rake the leaves by holding them flat on a work surface and running a fork down their length so the juice is released, then tie each leaf into a knot before adding it to a dish. To prepare pandanus juice, slice several leaves and grind them in a mortar or food processor until fine, then strain, squeezing out the juice.
Storing: The leaves keep for a week in the refrigerator, wrapped in paper towels and sealed in a plastic bag. You may freeze them to keep for a longer period.
Substitutes: Use fresh pandanus leaves whenever possible; commercial pandanus essence does not give a true pandanus aroma or flavor. If they are unavailable, the closest substitute would be lemongrass.
Perilla or shiso leaves ~
My first encounter with perilla or shiso was on a visit to Japan where I studied the art of sashimi cutting. I watched a sushi master chef nonchalantly wrap a piece of tuna with an almost perfectly heart-shaped green leaf and place it on a wooden tray. I was curious what the leaf was, so I asked for one and tentatively bit in. Wow! The flavor was a mixture of mint with beefy aniseed aromas. The combination with the piece of tuna and a lashing of wasabi lit up my palate and the aroma sent up from my mouth to my nose was unmatched. Later I found out that the leaf is called the “beefsteak” herb in Japanese. As I could not bring the seeds home, I continued to look for this plant in Japanese restaurants. I finally found it in Cabramatta, where red perilla is used as a garnish for Vietnamese pho soups.
Perilla is native to China and Burma. There are two varieties, red and green, and both are heart-shaped with serrated edges. They have a refreshing minty and slightly beefy and aniseed-like aroma—one of the reasons why the name “beefsteak” herb has often been used. Red perilla is doubled colored, with dark green on one side and reddish-purple on the other, and the green is bright and flat. This variety of perilla is used in Japan for making ume boshi, a kind of pickled plum paste. The green variety is used in soups. The Japanese use these leaves extensively in cooking. The leaves, the small stems of the flowering seed pods (hana hojiso), and the sprouts of the plant (mejiso) are all used as an edible garnishes for sushi and sashimi—the leaves are used as sushi wraps and sometimes deep-fried as tempura. The Vietnamese and Japanese also value this plant for its antibiotic properties. Perilla has been used by Asian herbalists to relieve the effects of fish poisoning and to treat influenza and coughs.
Purchasing: Look for packets of perilla leaves in Japanese stores. Soft, floppy leaves can easily be refreshed by soaking their stems in water.
Culinary uses: Perilla leaves are an integral part of Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine. The larger leaves are finely sliced and used in salads or as a wrapper for barbecued meats. I have used red perilla for cooking beef stir-fries with great success. Chopped red perilla should be added just before the cooking ends.
Preparation: Wash, dry and use the leaves as instructed.
Storing: Wrap in damp paper towels and keep in the refrigerator for 2–3 days. Perilla should not be kept for too long or the aromas will be lost.
Substitutes: Vietnamese mint or basil.
Vietnamese mint ~ laksa leaf or polygonum
Accidentally trample on a bed of Vietnamese mint and you will receive a burst of herbaceous aromas: minty, peppery, lemony and aniseed with a hint of bitter basil in the back notes. Crunch a leaf and you will get the tart, sharp-tasting bitterness that lends a distinctive quality to this versatile herb, which is not only used in Vietnam but in the rest of Asia in countless ways. This leaf is not really a mint but a closer relative to basil than to coriander or mint. The dark-green, almond-shaped leaves are long and tapering with a bright green color and a distinctive dark red or green “arrow” shape in the center.
As a child, I always had a bush of Vietnamese mint or daun kesom in my backyard, growing among the pandanus and lemongrass beds. The chickens scratched among these herb beds and they were often trampled upon when we looked for wayward shuttlecocks from the badminton court near-by, but the mint plant never died. This was the mint we used for a special sour tamarind-broth laksa that came from the north of Malaya, which bore a striking similarity to the hot and sour tom yum soup from across the border in Thailand.
Whenever we used this mint in any of our laksas or a soup dish from Indonesia called soto, the kitchen was filled with aromas that gave everyone an appetite in eager anticipation of dinner. This is a mint that I choose when I want to impress my guests in a salad or spring roll. It is an unusual little herb that can go undetected until it is crushed and scattered over a salad or soup, when it can light up the palate and create wonderful combinations of aromas and tastes.
Fish for instance, when cooked with Vietnamese mint, can suddenly taste minty or peppery. Squid stuffed with Vietnamese mint and a very finely ground pork mixture changes the flavor of the squid. My laksa sauces are renowned for their flavor, and I believe the secret lies in their combination of onion, garlic and a bit of lemongrass with this quiet little herb. It is a plant that grows easily so anyone can have fresh Vietnamese mint on hand and it could be used in any culinary situation where mint is called for.
Purchasing: Look for dark green leaves in firm bunches with a fresh aroma. They should look plump and fresh, without any signs of bruising.
Culinary uses: Vietnamese mint is used in Vietnamese and Laotian table salads and in laksas, especially Penang Laksa. You should try some leaves in a ham or chicken sandwich or with boiled eggs mashed with a dash of home-made mayonnaise.
Preparation: Strip the leaves and tender stalks from the central stem before using.
Storing: Wrap in a damp paper towel and keep refrigerated in a plastic container. Place the stems in a glass of water and they will root easily, after which they can be planted in pots. A wilted bunch may be revived by soaking them in iced water.
Substitutes: Equal parts of mint and coriander leaves or Asian pennywort.
8 oz (250 g) fresh tuna or salmon fillets, poached and flaked with a fork
2 medium potatoes (8 oz/250 g), peeled, boiled and mashed
1 onion, finely diced
1 green onion, chopped
2 tablespoons minced curry leaves
1 teaspoon amchoor mango powder
1 teaspoon bottled sweet chili sauce
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup (125 ml) oil, for frying
1 egg white, beaten
1/2 cup (30 g) breadcrumbs
CURRY LEAF PESTO
1 cup (40 g) curry leaves
2 Asian shallots
2 cloves garlic
3 tablespoons dried unsweetened grated (desiccated) coconut
1 green finger-length chili, deseeded Salt, to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh lime juice, mixed with 1/4 cup (60 ml) water
1/4 cup (60 ml) oil
Salmon fish cakes with curry leaf pesto
The delicate flavor of salmon added to the tantalizing and assertive fragrance of cumin and amchoor green mango powder provide a rich and sensuous aroma. This is a refreshing new take on the ubiquitous crab cakes served around the world today. Serve them as an appetizer, a party food or as part of a meal. If you cannot get curry leaves for the Pesto, use coriander leaves or mint leaves instead—both are equally wonderful!
Prepare the Curry Leaf Pesto by processing all the ingredients to a smooth paste in a blender, adding the lime juice a little at a time, and adjusting the seasonings to your taste. Transfer to a serving bowl and set aside.
Combine the flaked fish and mashed potato in a mixing bowl. Add all the other ingredients except the eggs, oil and breadcrumbs, and mix well. Add the lightly-beaten eggs and mix until well blended.
To make the fish cakes, grease your hands with a little oil. Scoop 2 heaping tablespoons of the fish mixture and roll it into a ball, then flatten it slightly into a patty. Continue to make the fish cakes in the same manner until all the remaining fish mixture is used up.
Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Working in batches, dip the patties in the egg white then roll them in the breadcrumbs until well coated. When the oil is hot enough, fry the coated patties in the hot oil for 3–4 minutes, turning from time to time, until golden and crispy on both sides. Remove from the heat and drain on paper towels.
Arrange the fish cakes on a serving platter and serve hot with the Curry Leaf Pesto on the side.
MAKES: 20 cakes
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins
COOKING TIME: 15 mins
8 fresh medium shrimp (7 oz/200 g)
8 dried rice paper wrappers, each 10 in (25 cm) across
8 lettuce leaves
7 oz (200 g) cooked roast beef, pork or chicken, thinly sliced
2 handfuls (4 oz/100 g) dried rice vermicelli, soaked in hot water until soft
8 (or more) garlic chives
CHILI LIME DIP
3 tablespoons hoisin sauce
1 tablespoon bottled sweet chili sauce
2 teaspoons fish sauce or soy sauce
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon chopped red finger-length chili pepper (optional)
Vietnamese rice paper rolls with chili lime dip
There are many versions of this popular Vietnamese dish. The simple rolls with lettuce leaf, roasted meat and shrimp inside is best made and served as soon as they are prepared. Use the freshest fillings and the best dried rice paper wrappers that you can find—available in Asian food stores in plastic packets of 10 sheets. It is well worth the effort.
Half-fill a saucepan with water and bring to a boil, then poach the shrimp for 1–2 minutes until pink or just cooked. Remove from the heat and drain, then peel and halve each shrimp. Divide the rice vermicelli into 8 equal portions.
To make the Rice Paper Rolls, briefly dip a rice paper wrapper in a bowl of water until soft, then place it on a dry work surface, smoothing it with your fingers. Place a lettuce leaf on the bottom third of the wrapper, top with several slices of roast meat and a portion of the rice vermicelli. Fold the bottom end of the rice paper over the filling, then fold in the sides and roll up tightly halfway. Place 2 shrimp halves, end to end, in the fold and continue rolling up firmly. Before reaching the end, place a garlic chive (or more if preferred) along the fold with one end protruding and then continue rolling up until the edges seal. Make all the rolls in the same manner with the remaining ingredients.
Combine the Chili Lime Dip ingredients in a serving bowl and mix well, adjusting the seasonings as desired. Arrange the Rice Paper Rolls on a serving platter and serve with the dip on the side.
MAKES: 8 rolls
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins
COOKING TIME: 5 mins
3 sheets frozen puff pastry (9 1/2 in/24 cm), thawed
1 egg, beaten
SWEET POTATO FILLING
1 tablespoon oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 small onion, minced
2 sweet potatoes (10 oz/300 g) peeled and diced to yield
2 cups, then blanched until soft
1 cup (100 g) finely sliced green beans or fresh or frozen green peas
1 tablespoon chopped Vietnamese mint
1 1/2 tablespoons curry powder
1 cup (250 ml) water
1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper (optional)
1 teaspoon sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
Sweet potato curry puffs with vietnamese mint
A twist on the familiar vegetarian curry puffs, this great party dish is a pure vegetarian version with rich mint and onion aromas that are released with each bite into a savory parcel. Serve the puffs with Mint Pachidi Chutney (page 243) if you like.
Prepare the Sweet Potato Filling first by heating the oil in a wok and stir-frying the garlic and ginger over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the onion and stir-fry until transparent. Stir in the cooked sweet potato, green beans or peas, mint and curry powder, and add 1 cup (250 ml) of water. Cook the ingredients for about 2 minutes, season with the red pepper, sugar and salt. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
Preheat the oven to 360˚F (180˚C). On the lightly floured work surface, cut each puff pastry sheet into 9 equal squares. To make the puffs, brush two opposite sides of a pastry square with the beaten egg. Place 1 1/2 tablespoons of the Sweet Potato Filling in the center of the pastry square and fold the pastry diagonally over the filling, forming a triangle, and then crimp the edges to seal. Place the puff on a baking pan and brush the top with the beaten egg. Continue to make the puffs in the same manner with the remaining ingredients.
Bake the puffs for about 20 minutes until golden and serve immediately.
MAKES: 27 puffs
PREPARATION TIME: 20 mins
COOKING TIME: 40 mins
8 fresh witlof or betel (chaplu) leaves, or any other leafy lettuce leaves, rinsed and dried, to wrap the parcels
1 small jicama or baby cucumber (about 8 oz/250 g), peeled and cut into matchsticks about the length of the witlof leaves
1 onion, sliced into rings
1 stalk lemongrass, thick part only, outer layers discarded, inner part chopped
Sprigs of coriander leaves (cilantro)
Thinly-sliced red Asian chili peppers(optional), to garnish
FILLING
8 oz (250 g) grilled beef sirloin (medium rare) or chicken breast, sliced into long strips the length of the witlof leaves
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fish sauce, or to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
1/4 cup (10 g) chopped fresh spearmint or mint leaves
Grilled beef parcels with thai herbs
A David Thompson-inspired morsel, the slightly bitter witlof or betel leaf beautifully wrapped around tender beef strips impresses the palate, while the fresh lime and lemongrass aromas engage the senses. By contrast, the jicama provides a sweetness and crunch in this ideal party food. Grilled chicken breast works equally well, and any leafy lettuce leaves can be used to wrap the parcels.
Prepare the Beef Filling first by combining the beef strips, sugar and lemon juice in a bowl and mix until the sugar is dissolved. Add all the other ingredients except the mint leaves and mix until well blended, adjusting the taste. Set aside for 10 minutes to marinate, then stir in the chopped mint leaves.
To assemble, divide the Beef Filling into 8 equal portions. Place 1 portion of the Beef Filling with 1 (or more, if desired) jicama stick and onion ring on each betel leaf. Sprinkle with chopped lemongrass and garnish with coriander sprigs and sliced chili (if using). Arrange the assembled wraps on a serving platter and serve immediately.
MAKES: 8
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins
FILLING
1 tablespoon oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup (4 oz/100 g) ground pork
1/2 cup (4 oz/100 g) ground chicken
5 fresh or canned water chestnuts, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and coarsely grated
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 tablespoons plum sauce
10 green beans, very thinly sliced
2 tablespoons chopped Vietnamese mint
1 handful (50 g) dried rice vermicelli, blanched in hot water until soft, drained
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
Pinch of ground white pepper
14 square Chinese spring roll wrappers
1 egg, lightly beaten
Oil for deep-frying
ORANGE CHILI SAUCE
1 tablespoon Sambal Oelek Chili Paste (page 240) or other sweet chili paste
1/2 cup (125 ml) fresh orange juice
Spring rolls with orange chili sauce
A classic spring roll recipe that has all the flavors and aromas of Asia rolled into one bite. Crispy chopped garlic and water chestnuts provide a pleasing crunch and a peppery burst of Vietnamese mint reminds you of Asia.
Prepare the Sambal Oelek Chili Paste by following the recipe on page 240.
Prepare the Filling first. Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the garlic over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the ground pork and chicken and stir-fry until they change color, breaking the meat up as you stir. Stir in the water chestnut, carrot, oyster sauce and plum sauce, and simmer covered for 5–7 minutes until tender. If the mixture appears dry, add some water. Add the green bean slices, mint and rice vermicelli, and stir-fry for another 1 minute. Season with the salt and pepper to taste, and remove from the heat. Set aside to cool.
To make a Spring Roll, spoon 2 heaping tablespoons of the Filling onto the center of a spring roll wrapper. Fold a corner of the wrapper diagonally over the Filling, then fold in both sides and roll up tightly. Before reaching the end, brush the edge of the wrapper with the beaten egg, then continue to roll up tightly, pressing the end down to seal. Make all the spring rolls in this manner with the remaining ingredients.
Heat the oil in a wok until very hot, then deep-fry the spring rolls in batches over high heat for about 3 minutes, turning often, until crispy and golden on all sides. Reduce the heat to medium, continue to deep-fry for 1 more minute and remove the rolls from the hot oil. Drain on paper towels.
Make the Orange Chili Sauce by mixing all the ingredients in a serving bowl. Arrange the spring rolls whole or halved on serving platters, garnish with Begonia flowers (if using) and serve with the Orange Chili Sauce on the side.
Note: The spring rolls may be prepared earlier and refrigerated until you are ready to deep-fry and serve them. To reheat, bake in an oven at 320˚F (160˚C) for 10 minutes. If you like, the same amount of ground shrimp can be substituted for the pork.
MAKES: 14 rolls
PREPARATION TIME: 45 mins
COOKING TIME: 20 mins
1 tablespoon oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
2/3 cup (100 g) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (100 g) rice flour
Pinch of baking powder
Pinch of salt
Pinch of ground white pepper
1 1/2 cups (375 ml) water
1 small green chili pepper, deseeded and chopped finely
1 cup (200 g) dried channa dal (split peas), soaked overnight to soften, then boiled for 2 hours and drained, or 2 cups (400 g) canned garbanzo beans, drained and mashed
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, dry-roasted and ground, or 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 egg, beaten
Oil, for deep-frying
SWEET CHILI DIP
2 tablespoons Sambal Oelek Chili Paste (page 240) or other sweet chili paste with shrimp paste in it
1 tablespoon balsamic or Chinese vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
2 kaffir lime leaves, minced
Vegetarian fritters with sweet chili dip
Shallow-fried crispy onions and inviting garlic tease out the flavors in this recipe. You may include anything else your imagination devises, for instance roasted dried shrimp, so travel that path for a fragrant result. These simple fritters may be served on their own with a dipping sauce or chopped and add to a summer salad for crisp texture.
Prepare the Sambal Oelek Chili Paste by following the recipe on page 240.
Prepare the Sweet Chili Dip first by combining all the ingredients in a bowl and mixing well. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a wok or skillet and sauté the garlic over medium heat until golden brown and fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and drain on paper towels. In the same pan, sauté the onion for 1–2 minutes in the same manner.
Sift both types of flour into a mixing bowl. Add the baking powder, salt, pepper and water, and whisk the mixture until smooth. Add the sautéed garlic and onion, and all the other ingredients to the flour mixture and mix well, then leave the batter to stand for 15 minutes.
Heat the oil in a wok or saucepan until very hot. Spoon 1 tablespoon of the batter mixture, roughly shape it into a patty with your fingers and then lower it into the hot oil. Deep-fry the patty for 3–4 minutes, adjusting the heat and constantly turning it, until the fritter is golden brown on all sides. Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. Continue to deep-fry the rest of the Fritters in the same manner. Serve them hot with a bowl of Sweet Chili Dip on the side.
Note: Instead of using channa dal or garbanzo beans, substitute 1 cup (100 g) soaked green beans mixed with 1 cup (200 g) mashed potato. You can also add 1 cup (7 oz/200 g) of fresh shrimp or dry-roasted dried shrimp in place of the dal for a non-vegetarian version.
SERVES: 4–6
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins
COOKING TIME: 20 mins
1 cup (200 g) canned or cooked garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained
1 cup (200 g) canned or cooked red kidney beans, rinsed and drained
8 baby potatoes (about 10 oz/300 g total), boiled and quartered
1/2 cup (75 g) raw almonds, dry-roasted then roughly chopped or ground
2 green apples, skin on, sliced into eighths and rubbed with 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (30 g) watercress or mint leaves
1/2 cup (20 g) chopped coriander leaves (cilantro)
2 ripe tomatoes, sliced into wedges
1 onion, halved and thinly sliced
1–2 small green chili peppers, deseeded and chopped
1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper or dried chili flakes
Sprigs of coriander leaves (cilantro) or basil, to garnish
TAMARIND HONEY DRESSING
1/2 cup (125 ml) vinegar
1/4 cup (60 ml) tamarind juice (prepared by mixing 2 tablespoons tamarind pulp with 1/3 cup (100 ml) hot water, mashing and straining to obtain the juice)
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons honey
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
Pinch of ground white pepper
Mixed bean and potato salad with herbs
Colorful, healthy and minty, the main strength of this dish lies in its simplicity. The aromatic punch of herbs like coriander, mint and basil sprinkled over the salad speaks for itself. Garbanzo and kidney beans, sliced potatoes and tomatoes are the staples of a salad often served in tiny puffed breads called chaat puri or bhel puri by Mumbai street stalls. Indians have managed to stay healthy as vegetarians because they understand the importance of maintaining a balanced diet of lentils and vegetables.
Prepare the Tamarind Honey Dressing first by combining all the ingredients in a bowl and mixing well. If preferred, bring the Dressing to a boil and simmer uncovered for 1 minute in a saucepan and then cool.
Assemble all the ingredients (except the beans, red pepper and garnish) in a large salad bowl and add the beans. Drizzle the Dressing over and toss well to combine. Sprinkle the salad with red pepper or chili flakes, garnish with coriander or basil sprigs and serve immediately.
Note: This salad is often eaten as is or used as a filling in tortilla, wraps or bread. Canned beans are much quicker and just as tasty.
SERVES: 4–6
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins
24 young asparagus spears
24 wonton wrappers
12 slices square gruyère or cheddar cheese, cut in half
1 1/2 tablespoons Sambal Oelek Chili Paste (page 240) or other sweet chili paste with shrimp paste
Fresh basil leaves
4 tablespoons water mixed with
4 teaspoons cornstarch to form a paste
2 cups (500 ml) oil for shallow-frying
DIPPING SAUCE
1/4 cup (60 ml) mayonnaise
2 tablespoons bottled sweet chili sauce
1 tablespoon chopped mint
2 tablespoons capers, drained and chopped
Asparagus spears in crispy wonton skins
The wonton “apron” wrapped around the asparagus is stuffed with cheese and exotic basil that releases a heady aniseed aroma contrasting with crunchy vegetable. For maximum effect, flash cook and serve at once.
Prepare the Sambal Oelek Chili Paste by following the recipe on page 240.
Cut off the bottom one-third of each asparagus spear and discard. If using large asparagus, bring 2 cups (500 ml) of water to a boil in a saucepan and blanch the asparagus for 1–2 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain well.
Place a wonton wrapper on a flat work surface. Dab a half of a cheese slice with Sambal Oelek and place it on the wrapper with a basil leaf along the side nearest you. Place an asparagus spear on top of the cheese, parallel to the edge of the wrapper. Fold the edge of the wrapper over the asparagus and roll up firmly around the asparagus, sealing the inside of the far edge with a dab of the cornstarch paste. Continue to wrap the remaining ingredients in the same manner.
Heat the oil in a skillet until hot and pan-fry the wrapped asparagus spears over medium heat until golden and crispy on all sides, about 1 minute each. Remove from the heat and drain on paper towels.
Combine the Dipping Sauce ingredients in a serving bowl and mix well. Arrange the fried asparagus on a serving platter and serve hot with the bowl of the Dipping Sauce on the side.
MAKES: 24 asparagus rolls
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins
COOKING TIME: 5–10 mins
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 leek, trimmed and coarsely chopped to make 1 cup
1/2 onion or 3 Asian shallots, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 medium potatoes (preferably Pontiac), peeled and thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
1 stalk lemongrass, thick part only, outer layers discarded, inner part bruised
2 cups (500 ml) Chicken Stock (page 245), or water
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/4 cup (60 ml) sour cream
1/4 cup (60 ml) yogurt, plus extra to serve
Dried chili flakes (optional)
Chopped chives, to garnish
Leek and potato vichyssoise with lemongrass
This summer soup, served by my good friend Martin Morrison, whose years in Malaysia have influenced the flavors, has a romantically light aroma. The potato and leek become infused with the fresh, citrusy aroma of lemongrass—producing a lemony perfume that makes this interesting soup unusual and addictive. A must-have for summer entertaining!
Prepare the Chicken Stock by following the recipe on page 245.
Heat the olive oil in a wok and stir-fry the leek and onion over medium heat until the onion becomes transparent, 2–3 minutes. Add the garlic and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Stir in the potato slices, bay leaf and lemongrass and pour in the Chicken Stock, then bring to a boil. Simmer uncovered for about 30 minutes until the potato and leek are very tender. Season with the salt and pepper, then remove from the heat and cool.
Remove and discard the bay leaf and lemongrass, then process the soup to a purée in a food processor, adding the sour cream and yogurt gradually. Chill the soup before serving. Ladle into 4 individual serving bowls, sprinkle with chili flakes (if using), garnish with chopped chives and serve with a bowl of extra yogurt on the side.
Note: This is a very flexible recipe. Celery or other vegetables can be added in place of or in addition to the potato, then cook and process as instructed. You can vary the proportions of the various ingredients to suit your taste.
SERVES: 4
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins
COOKING TIME: 40 mins
1 banana flower or 1 1/2 cups (200 g) sliced cabbage
Salted lime juice water (prepared by combining 1 tablespoon salt, 1/2 cup [125 ml] fresh lime juice and 8 cups [2 liters] water)
1/4 cup (25 g) freshly grated coconut or dried unsweetened (dessicated) coconut
1/2 ginger flower (about 4 oz/100 g) or
2 stalks lemongrass, finely chopped
1/2 tablespoon freshly grated galangal root
7 oz (200 g) roast or barbecued pork, cut into strips, or 5 thick slices of prosciutto fried until brown and then sliced into strips
1/2 finger-length chili pepper, deseeded and cut into thin strips
Crushed pork cracklings or crisp bacon bits, to garnish
Mint leaves, to garnish
DRESSING
1 tablespoon Sambal Oelek Chili Paste (page 240) or other sweet chili paste
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
2 tablespoons crème de menthe (optional)
Tropical salad with barbecued pork
A palette of perfumes you can really eat. A bowl of this Balinese babi guling salad is brimming with the floral scents of banana flower, coconut and lime. Added to this are the refreshing rose-like fragrance of ginger flower and shavings of galangal with a spike of mint on top.
Prepare the Sambal Oelek Chili Paste by following the recipe on page 240.
Prepare the banana flower by pulling off the outer petals and the long narrow yellow blossoms until the pinkish white inner heart is revealed. Halve the heart lengthwise with an oiled knife to avoid the sticky sap clinging to it and soak the halves in a pot of salted lime juice water for 1 hour. Remove and drain. Squeeze the soaking liquid from the heart and slice finely into thin shreds.
In a skillet, dry-fry the grated coconut over low heat until fragrant and golden, 10–15 minutes. Alternatively, microwave on medium for a total of 5 minutes, removing and stirring every 2 minutes.
Just before serving, combine the banana flower (or cabbage), ginger flower or lemongrass, galangal, pork, bacon, chili strips and grated coconut in a large salad bowl. In a small bowl, combine the Dressing ingredients and mix until the sugar is dissolved. Drizzle the Dressing over the salad and toss thoroughly until well combined. Spread the pork cracklings or bacon bits on top of the salad and serve with steamed rice, garnished with mint leaves.
Note: This salad, like rojak, has herbs instead of vegetables with the pork as the hero. A few teaspoons of my Sambal Oelek (page 240) could be the spike that adds aroma and a chili hit.
SERVES: 4
PREPARATION: 20 mins + 1 hour to soak the banana flower
COOKING: 15 mins
1/4 cup (60 ml) oil, for frying
12 wonton skins, cut into thin strips
1 lb (500 g) beef tenderloin
1/2 cup (20 g) mint leaves, torn
1/4 cup (10 g) coriander leaves (cilantro), torn
1 stalk lemongrass, thick bottom part only, outer layers discarded, inner part minced
1/2 cup (125 g) grated green papaya
1 onion, halved and sliced into thin strips
1 mandarin orange, peeled and segmented
Lettuce leaves, washed and torn
1 sheet nori, thinly sliced into strips
TANGY THAI DRESSING
5 cloves garlic, peeled
1–2 green finger-length chili peppers, halved lengthwise and deseeded
1 tablespoon fish sauce
3 tablespoons Chinese black rice vinegar
4 tablespoons shaved palm sugar or dark brown sugar
Beef salad with thai herbs and mandarin orange
The wild aromas of Thai mint, lemongrass and coriander leaves join forces to form a herbal mélange in this recipe. This is the first Thai salad I ever made, under the tutelage of Charlie Amatyakul of the Bangkok Oriental Cooking School, and it has been my favorite since. Here I have added more texture with crispy wonton skins and nori strips for a swirling festive dish, great for New Year’s parties with fireworks as a backdrop.
Heat the oil in a wok and fry the wonton strips over medium heat until they curl up and become crispy, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and drain on paper towels. Drain off most of the oil, reheat the wok until very hot and sear the beef for 1 minute on each side. Remove from the heat and cool, then slice into thin strips across the grain.
Prepare the Tangy Thai Dressing by grinding the garlic and chili peppers in a mortar or process in a food processor until fine. Transfer to a bowl, add all the other ingredients and mix well.
Place all the ingredients except the orange, lettuce leaves, nori and wonton strips in a salad bowl. Drizzle the Dressing over them and toss well to combine. Arrange the lettuce leaves on a serving platter and spoon the beef salad on top. Garnish with the orange segments, wonton strips and nori strips and serve chilled.
SERVES: 6
PREPARATION TIME: 45 mins
COOKING TIME: 5 mins
1 lb (500 g) fresh jumbo shrimp
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1 teaspoon melted butter
1 small onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 carrot, cut into matchsticks
1 green tomato, halved and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons dried channa dal, soaked overnight, drained and dry-roasted
1/2 cup (40 g) besan or chickpea flour, dry-roasted in the microwave for
1–2 minutes on high
5 kaffir lime leaves, sliced into thin shreds Sprigs of coriander leaves (cilantro), to garnish
CRISPY FRIED GARLIC
2 tablespoons oil
3–4 cloves garlic, minced
PLUM DRESSING
1 tablespoon Garlic Oil (page 56)
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon bottled Chinese plum sauce
1 teaspoon dried chili flakes
Fragrant shrimp salad with plum dressing
Burma, now known as Myanmar, lies at the confluence of two major cuisines—those of India and China. This dish combines Indian and Chinese influences—with the aroma of young kaffir lime leaves and the richness of buttery shrimp. Crayfish or lobster may be substituted for the shrimp, if you prefer.
Prepare the Garlic Oil by following the recipe on page 56.
Prepare the Crispy Fried Garlic first by heating the oil in a skillet and sautéing the garlic over medium heat until golden and crispy, about 1 minute. Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. Alternatively, cover the garlic with 1 tablespoon of oil in a heatproof dish and microwave for 1 minute on high, then stir and microwave for another minute.
Combine the shrimp, salt and butter in a large bowl and mix well. Set aside to marinate for 5 minutes, then grill the shrimp on a preheated pan grill or under an oven broiler until pink and just cooked, 1–2 minutes on each side. Remove from the heat and cool. Peel the shrimp, leaving the tails on.
Place the shrimp in a large salad bowl with the onion, carrot, tomato, roasted channa dal, besan flour and kaffir lime leaf shreds. Combine the Plum Dressing ingredients in a small bowl and mix well, then pour it over the salad and toss until well blended, adjusting the seasonings as desired. Sprinkle with the Crispy Fried Garlic and serve immediately, garnished with coriander sprigs.
SERVES: 4
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins + overnight soaking
COOKING TIME: 20 mins
1/2 cup (100 g) dried chickpeas (split peas)
1/2 cup (100 g) dried urad dal
4 cloves garlic, sliced
1 jicama (1 lb/500 g), peeled and sliced into thick strips
2 small green mangoes (7 oz/200 g total), peeled and pitted, flesh thinly sliced
10 cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 onion, sliced
1 tablespoon roasted peanuts
1 tablespoon roasted cashew nuts
1 tablespoon roasted sesame seeds
4 fresh shiso or perilla leaves, chopped
2–3 bird’s eye red chili peppers, sliced (optional)
PICKLED TEA LEAVES
1/4 cup (10 g) dried green Chinese tea leaves
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups (500 ml) boiled and cooled water
CHILI OIL
4 dried red finger-length chili peppers, stems removed, broken into small pieces
1/4 cup (60 ml) oil
DRESSING
Fresh juice of 2 limes
2–3 tablespoons Chili Oil (see above)
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1/2 cup (125 ml) fresh pineapple juice
1/2 cup (125 ml) coconut juice
1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
Tea leaf salad with green mango and cashews
The serving of this pickled tea leaf salad, known as laphet thoke in Myanmar, is a social custom—a peace offering and a palate cleanser. Old folks chew pickled tea leaves to keep their teeth strong. Young Burmese usually serve it in a lacquer tray with the individual compartments containing the ingredients that make up the salad. The dressing is served on the side. Guests are then invited to toss their own tiny portions of scented and crisp salad with garlic, onion and perfumed green mango together with pickled green tea leaves and dressing to suit their personal taste. This is a recipe sent to me by my friend, Daul Mien Sin Sin.
Make the Pickled Tea Leaves first by combining all the ingredients in a jar, then cover tightly and shake the jar until the ingredients are mixed well. Allow the tea leaves to soak for at least 2 days, a week is better. Before using, drain the tea leaves and squeeze out the liquid.
Make the Chili Oil by dry-roasting the dried chili pepper in a skillet over low heat until fragrant and light brown, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and grind finely in a mortar then add to the oil. Alternatively break the dry-roasted chili peppers into small pieces and return them to the pan, then pour in the oil and leave to marinate for 30 minutes, then simmer over medium heat for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and cool. Store the unused Chili Oil in a bottle.
To prepare the salad, soak the dried chickpeas and urad dal, separately, in water for several hours until soft, then drain and dry-roast them in a skillet over medium heat for 3–4 minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside. In the same skillet, sauté the garlic in 3 tablespoons of oil over medium heat for 1–2 minutes until crispy. Combine all the salad ingredients with the Pickled Tea Leaves in a mixing bowl and toss well.
Combine the Dressing ingredients in a small bowl, then drizzle it over the salad and toss thoroughly until the salad is coated well. Transfer the salad to a serving platter and serve immediately. Alternatively serve the salad with a bowl of Dressing on the side.
SERVES: 4–6
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins + time to prepare the Pickled Tea Leaves
COOKING TIME: 30 mins
2 tablespoons oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup (50 g) diced tempeh
2 dried sweet Chinese sausages (lap cheong) or other sweet sausages, thinly sliced (optional)
3 cups (150 g) sliced bok choy or other Chinese greens
2 packets instant noodles Sprigs of basil leaves, to garnish
DRESSING
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1/2 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1 teaspoon bottled sweet chili sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 ground white pepper
1/2 tablespoon oil
Quick tossed asian noodles
Tossed, not stirred! Build the ingredients, flavors and aromas as you create your own masterpiece. Great cooking is all about control. Work with a hot pan, the freshest ingredients available, and keep the food moving. This recipe works well as a vegetarian noodle dish but sweet sausage slices can be added if you like. You can also use a fried omelet—rolled up and shredded—as a garnish, together with some crispy fried garlic and onions.
Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the garlic over medium heat until golden and fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and set aside. In the same oil, stir-fry the tempeh until golden brown and crispy, 2–3 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain on paper towels, then stir-fry the Chinese sausage slices until crisp.
Combine the Dressing ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Set aside.
Half-fill a saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Blanch the sliced greens until tender, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and drain the blanched greens. Set aside.
In the same saucepan of water, cook the noodles following the instructions on the packet until soft. Do not use the flavoring sachet. Remove the noodles from the pan and drain well. Transfer the noodles to the bowl of Dressing, add the blanched greens and toss well to combine. Divide the noodles equally in 2 serving platters and top with the stir-fried garlic, tempeh and Chinese sausage. Garnish with the basil leaves and serve immediately.
SERVES: 2
PREPARATION TIME: 20 mins
COOKING TIME: 10 mins
4 cups (400 g) cooked rice
3–4 betel leaves, soaked in water (enough to cover) mixed with 1 tablespoon sugar for 2 hours, then drained and cut into thin shreds
1 onion, finely sliced and stir-fried until golden in 1 tablespoon oil
1 cup (50 g) dried shrimp, rinsed and dry roasted until crisp
1/2 turmeric leaf, rolled and thinly sliced
2 sprigs curry leaves, chopped
3 sprigs Vietnamese mint, chopped
1 cup (40 g) Thai basil leaves, chopped
1 cup (40 g) mint leaves, chopped
2 kaffir lime leaves, cut into fine threads
1 small sprig fresh thyme, chopped
1/2 tablespoon grated fresh galangal root
1 cup (250 g) grated green papaya
10 peppercorns, roasted and crushed
2 tablespoons tamarind pulp, mashed with 4 tablespoons boiling water and strained to obtain the juice
Salt, to taste
PICKLED CUCUMBER
4 baby or Lebanese cucumbers
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (250 ml) vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 cups (225 g) sliced cucumber
Rice salad perfumed with herbs ~ Nasi ulam
This rice dish originates from the east coast of Malaysia where it is served cold during the fasting month by the Muslims. The fast is broken with a sweet rosewater drink to slake the thirst, followed by this aromatic herbal rice, searingly hot and tart with fresh lime juice, with a spicy sweet sambal on the side. Herbal rice is said to aid digestion, cleanse and refresh the body. It is served in many parts of Asia, including Myanmar and Indonesia. The Indians serve a similar Ayurvedic-influenced tamarind rice salad believed to “cool” the body.
Prepare the Pickled Cucumber first by thinly slicing the cucumbers with a mandolin as shown. In a large bowl, mix the cucumber slices with a little salt and set aside for 5 minutes. Squeeze the liquid from the cucumber slices, then rinse quickly, drain and dry on paper towels. Combine the vinegar and sugar in a bowl and mix until the sugar is dissolved. Add the sliced cucumber and mix until well coated. Allow to marinate for 2 hours, then drain and set aside.
In a large bowl, combined the cooked rice with all the other ingredients except the tamarind juice and salt. Gently toss the mixture until well blended, adding the tamarind juice a little at a time. Do not use all the tamarind juice; add just enough to separate the rice grains. Season with salt to taste, transfer to a serving platter and serve immediately with the Pickled Cucumber on the side. This dish goes well with pickled limes too.
SERVES: 4–6
PREPARATION TIME: 45 mins + 2 hours to marinate
COOKING TIME: 5 mins
1 lb (500 g) fresh rice stick noodles, or 8 oz (250 g) dried rice stick noodles
4 dried sweet Chinese sausages (lap cheong), finely sliced
8–10 fresh medium shrimp (5 oz/150 g), peeled and deveined, or freshly shucked cockles or oysters
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon salted black beans, mashed with the back of a spoon
2 tablespoons Sambal Oelek Chili Paste (page 240) or other sweet chili paste
1/2 teaspoon dried shrimp paste, dry-roasted and crumbled
3 tablespoons thick sweet soy sauce (kecap manis)
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1/4 cup (60 ml) water or as needed
1 bunch garlic chives (about 30), washed and cut into short lengths
3 cups (150 g) bean sprouts, trimmed
Fresh lime juice, to taste
Pinch of salt, to taste
Pinch of ground white pepper, to taste
CRISPY PORK CRACKLINGS
1/4 cup (50 g) diced pork fatback
1 tablespoon water
Bean sauce noodles with shrimp and sausage
Char kway teow is a traditional dish that never fails to please with its hot and smoky aromas of spluttering pork fat deliciously browned in spicy black bean sauce. And when the rice noodles and emerald garlic chives are finally thrown in and tossed with the glistening dark sweet soy, the scents are complete in a dish with memorable aromas that linger long after the taste.
Prepare the Crispy Pork Cracklings first. Heat a skillet until hot and sauté the pork fatback for 2 minutes, then pour in the water and let it sizzle. As the water evaporates, the fat is rendered. Continue stirring until the pork fat becomes golden and crispy. Turn off the heat, transfer the Cracklings to a platter and reserve the oil for stir-frying the noodles.
If using dried rice stick noodles, half-fill a saucepan with water and bring to a boil, then cook the rice noodles for 2–3 minutes until soft. Remove from the heat and drain well.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the pork oil in a deep wok and stir-fry the sausages and shrimp over medium heat for 1 minute. Move the sausages and shrimp to the sides of the wok to make a well in the center, add the garlic and stir-fry for 30 seconds until fragrant, then add the black beans, chili paste and shrimp paste, and continue to stir-fry for 1 more minute. Combine all the ingredients in the wok and mix well. Add the noodles, a little at a time, and toss well. Drizzle in both soy sauces and toss until the noodles are coated evenly with the sauce—you may need to add a little water to mix the sauces evenly. Finally stir in the chives, bean sprouts, Crispy Pork Cracklings, lime juice, salt and pepper to taste and toss well. Remove from the heat, transfer to individual serving plates and serve immediately.
SERVES: 4–6
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins
