Читать книгу Cool Caravanning, Updated Second Edition - Caroline Mills - Страница 12

Sleningford Watermill

North Yorkshire

Pitches alongside the River Ure

You don’t have to be mad keen on canoeing to stay at Sleningford Watermill, but it helps. In fact, the chances are that even if you had no intention of performing a barrel roll in the water when you arrived, you’ll at least be dipping a big toe in before you leave. And if you’re not a canoeist of any kind (and by canoeist, I mean anyone from the age of 3 to 103 who might like to have a go even if they’ve never stepped foot in one before), be prepared for those who are, because the rainbow of canoes, kayaks, inflatable dinghies and anything else that floats is unmissable around the park.

Like so many attractions, it’s the lure of the water that draws people to Sleningford Watermill. In this instance it’s the River Ure, which rises way back in the far west of the Yorkshire Dales and by the time it reaches the now defunct but beautiful watermill is wide enough and frothy enough to provide some serious entertainment. There’s a long stretch directly in front of the campsite that appeals to canoeists of all abilities, as well as to fishermen throwing a fly. While there is a touch of torrential white water to attract hardened experience, just a matter of feet away is the polished calm of a water tamed, ready to accept young hopefuls and paddlers alike who just want to splash.

It is without doubt a fantastic campsite. Far away from the road, down a long private drive, the first pitches are raised above the entrance and are for seasonal touring caravans. They are, rather alarmingly at first, in a neat row, so that everyone gets a view of the river, but this is the only part of the site that’s uniform. In the extensive centre of the park is the old watermill and a series of stone barns and stables that have been converted into changing rooms (for canoeists) and camping facilities, as well as the reception and shop. This is the hub of the site, busy with ice-cream eaters and campers going about their daily business. More pitches are set up on the grass directly in front of the river and the watermill. Known as ‘The Riverside’, it is the best place to pitch if you want to be in the centre of it all but not if you’d prefer some peace.

Canoeing on the River Ure at Sleningford Watermill

Behind the reception is ‘The Millhouse Field’, the quietest of the three campsite areas; totally enclosed by hedges and trees; here you can find a peaceful corner as there is no through access. It tends to be the area totally given over to ‘vans because every pitch has access to hook-ups. But by far the most picturesque and natural area of the site is ‘The Island’, a vast parkland meadow right next to the river where you can select a pitch with or without hook-up. Nothing is defined here – just choose a spot you happen to like, whether it’s by the water’s edge, under a giant oak tree or tucked up against the hedges. The meadow is brimming with wildlife and plants. In between the areas mown for campers to pitch and along parts of the riverbank, large swathes of grass are kept long, where wildflowers erupt and dragonflies dance. Secret paths weave their way beneath the wild shrubs and trees, trodden down by eager river-seekers.

It’s here where many of the canoeists stay, as well as nature lovers, as it’s furnished with bug hotels and hidey-holes for creatures and is where birds look for nests from which to rear their young. A small sandy beach, from where the intrepid enter the river, is overlooked by an eroding cliff on the other side that has more holes than a pack of Polo mints and is home to a colony of migrating birds. As the canoeists try to paddle upstream, fighting against the white water, the sand martins dart at full speed in and out of their makeshift nests, dipping and diving above the water as if to increase the pace of the activity below.

I happened to be on site at its busiest time of year and even then, when the giggles and resonating laughter of happy children fill the pure Yorkshire air, there were still quiet places to pitch and solitary spaces to hide oneself away, where you could close your eyes under a midday sun and soak up the sound of the river, oblivious to all but the breeze through the trees.

Sleningford Watermill

North Stainley, Ripon, North Yorkshire, HG4 3HQ

01765 635201

www.sleningfordwatermill.co.uk

sleningfordwatermill@gmail.com

Opening times: Beginning of April to end of October

Facilities: Three contrasting pitching areas, hook-ups, free hot showers, toilets, disabled facilities, laundry, dishwashing, recycling, shop selling local produce plus camping equipment, fly-fishing, canoe/kayak river access. Dogs on leads welcome.

How to get there: A1(M)/A1, come off at turning for B6267, signed Masham. Follow road for 3 miles, turn left, signed West Tanfield. In village, turn left onto A6108 and cross river bridge. Site is half a mile from West Tanfield on left.

Food & drink: The Staveley Arms (tel.: 01765 635439) in North Stainley has a good menu, local ales and is within walking distance of the campsite.

Nearby attractions: As well as canoeing and fishing on the river, head to the lovely village of Masham and visit one of two breweries, Theakston Brewery or the rival Black Sheep Brewery, set up by a Theakston family member.

Alternative campsite: The Black Swan (www.blackswanholiday.co.uk, tel.: 01765 689477). Good old-fashioned village pub in Fearby with a campsite at the rear and great views of the Dales. Six miles from Sleningford Watermill.

Top Left: Camping at Sleningford Watermill; Top Right: The old watermill; Bottom: The River Ure