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CHAPTER 2

PREPARATION AND REMOVAL

Before getting started, I’d like to quote a simple statement that, in my experience, will make this and any other automotive job an easier, more pleasant, and rewarding undertaking for you: “Plan your work and work your plan.”

When deciding your degree of involvement in your engine rebuild, consider two things: first, the time and expense of having someone else perform all the work and, second, the satisfaction of being directly responsible for a job well done. A word of caution here: While I’m as entertained as the next red-blooded American male by Hollywood’s rendition of engine rebuilding and automotive restoration, there is little resemblance between what you see on the flat screen and what awaits you out in the garage. In the real world, the task of removing, rebuilding, and replacing the engine in your car or truck cannot be accomplished in an hour and will result in you getting a tad dirtier and being a bit more challenged than the guys on your favorite automotive show.

Engines are rebuilt for various reasons, ranging from noticeable loss of power and efficiency due to high mileage (just plain worn out), to the quest for more power (you want to go faster). In a worst-case scenario, a rebuild may be necessary due to failure of internal engine components (you don’t have much choice). Whatever the reason, you have decided to proceed with removing and rebuilding your engine. But before the first wrench is turned or the first knuckle skinned, there are questions to be answered and logistics to be arranged.

It’s not a pretty sight, but that shaker scoop atop the air cleaner on this engine indicates that something special might be below. Not only does the shaker rest on a 429 Cobra Jet engine, but the engine sits between the fenders of one of just a handful of specially built 1970 Torino NASCAR pace cars. This engine rebuild will be part of a total restoration of this rare car belonging to Mike Parrotta of Columbus, New Jersey.

First, to what level do you want to take this rebuild? Keep in mind that there are various types or levels of rebuild from just freshening it up with new piston rings and bearings throughout to the modifications required for all-out competition.

The purpose of this book is to cover all aspects of an engine rebuild, focusing on stock but also featuring high-performance modifications. The term “stock rebuild” refers to restoring the engine to factory specifications using new original or correct replacement components in order to restore power and efficiency.

The next level on the rebuild continuum consists of internal modifications that allow the engine to retain a factory appearance while providing improvements in performance and reliability.

Last but not least is the dedicated performance buildup that not only includes aftermarket internal parts and modifications but also external changes from oil pan to air cleaner.

The logistics and the support required to successfully complete the project are also important considerations in any engine rebuild project. So let’s get started planning our work in order to work our plan.

Research

Know your subject, read, and ask questions. By reading this book in advance of beginning your rebuild, you will gain insight into the task at hand, know what steps to follow, the tools and services that will be required, and recognize the differences between the Lima series engines and others.

Facilities

While accomplishing a successful rebuild relying on a handy tree limb for a hoist and the dirt floor of an old chicken coop for an assembly room is probably stretching it, many fine running engines, including some used in all-out competition, have been assembled in the home shop. Experience has taught me that a clean, well-lit workplace is of the utmost importance when assembling an engine. And the degree to which you choose to outfit your home shop will directly affect the ease with which the task at hand will be accomplished. But keep in mind that a garage full of woodworking tools won’t take you too far in automotive applications.

Tools Required

The phrase “may be installed with common hand tools,” is routinely encountered in the directions that accompany parts (and yes, it’s probably a good idea to read them before proceeding). Suffice it to say that a home shop that is well stocked with high-quality hand tools is a great place to start when rebuilding an engine. When I say quality tools, I’m not advocating you flag down the nearest Snap-On truck and hand over your credit card, but by the same token, the tools in the 99-cent bin at your local home-improvement emporium are definitely not a good choice. Over the years I have had great luck with Craftsman tools, and in terms of quality for the price and availability they can’t be beat.

I recommend buying a good floor jack and jack stands, as they are not only necessary for the task at hand but will ultimately prove useful for a great many home auto repairs. And while a hoist, engine stand, and certain other specialized tools will be required for your rebuild, it isn’t always necessary to purchase them outright. Many auto parts stores will rent you what you need and, of course, being acquainted with someone who has a well-equipped home shop doesn’t hurt either. You should have at your disposal complete sets of ratchets, extensions and sockets, both standard and deep, in 3/8- and 1/2-inch drive; a quality torque wrench; a full assortment of screwdrivers, hex tools, punches, and drifts; and combination wrenches in sizes from 1/4- to 1¼-inch at the very least. Hammers of various types and a pry bar or two will come in very handy as well. Also, the luxury of an air compressor and pneumatic tools will make the job easier and quicker to accomplish.

There are some special tools that aren’t very expensive and will be very helpful during the rebuild, and therefore should be considered for purchase. Simple tools such as a ring compressor, ring filer, ring expander, vacuum gauge, timing light, remote starter switch (especially handy for vintage Fords like ours), and others will not only make the job easier but will be handy to have for future rebuilds as well.

If your garage has the luxury of an air compressor, congratulations, as this will allow the use of air tools. Fear not, you can still accomplish most automotive tasks without air tools, it will just require a little more muscle power.

Important!

Think safety! Having a fire extinguisher handy when working with flammable materials is always a good idea. And don’t wait until you are faced with a need for the extinguisher to read the operating instructions. The extinguishers state of charge should also be noted periodically.

Sockets, both standard and deep-well, along with various hex ends are a must when rebuilding your engine.

A set of line wrenches will save valuable fuel and air-conditioning lines from damage during removal.

This type of puller is necessary to remove the vibration damper from your engine. Do not attempt to force the damper off by other means, as serious damage may occur.

Several types and sizes of hammers may be required to coax parts that have been in place and exposed to the elements for many years.

A good assortment of pliers and side cutters will prove themselves useful with this and most auto projects undertaken in the home shop.

Parts cleaners and rust-penetrating sprays are perhaps the most important products to purchase before undertaking an engine rebuild. Bolts and nuts to be removed during your project should be liberally soaked well in advance of wrenching.

A 3/8-inch-drive ratchet and set of extensions in varying lengths will handle many tasks on your rebuild.

A 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar is a must for the heavy work, and a good old-fashioned speed wrench will help remove multiple fasteners, such as oil pan bolts, a lot quicker if you don’t have the luxury of air tools.

A complete set of quality screwdrivers (these are Craftsman Professional series) in flat and Phillips heads will prove superior to bargain brands and give years of service.

Specialized tools such as this hex set are not always necessary but can prove handy on many automotive projects.

You will find many uses for a good set of drifts, punches, and chisels on your rebuild project.

I have used this bottle jack as an inexpensive supplement to my floor jack for many years. While not particularly recommended for the real heavy work, a bottle jack will fit into areas that a floor jack can’t reach.

Craftsman sells inexpensive tap and die sets such as this one, which has saved me time and money countless times on engine rebuild projects. It’s a good investment indeed.

Safety glasses are a must in the home shop when working on or under the car. (Summit Racing)

Bolt out nut and bolt extractors are designed to grab even the most rusted and rounded-off hardware. Once you’ve dealt with a nut or bolt rounded off by someone skimping by with the wrong socket or wrench, the need for quality tools becomes crystal clear.

A set of combination wrenches in graduated sizes between 1/4 and 1¼ inches are sure to get a workout on your engine rebuild project.

Extensions of varying lengths provide reach and leverage to make your ratchet or breaker bar more effective.

Air tools are a bit pricey, but they speed up the job considerably while saving wear and tear on your arms and hands. I depend on air tools very infrequently with the exception of engine removal and teardown, which I find go much quicker with air. I do not make it a practice to use air tools during the assembly phase of my projects, since this is not a time for speed but care and attention to detail.

A click-type torque wrench (top) is one item you cannot do without when assembling an engine. The swivel head ratchet (middle) assists getting into tight spots while removing nuts/bolts. The 1/2-inch breaker bar and ratchet (bottom) will help you deal with larger, tighter fasteners.

It’s a good idea to clearly label the containers if you are temporarily storing drained fluids, especially if they once held another product. This should help avoid any mishaps.

A timing light is a useful diagnostic tool when determining if your engine needs a rebuild and an absolute necessity for properly tuning your newly rebuilt engine. Improper ignition timing can cause damage in very short order. The timing light will also indicate if the vacuum and mechanical advance functions of your distributor are working properly. (Summit Racing)

A vacuum gauge is a simple diagnostic tool that can help you pinpoint a number of simple problems that will very often masquerade as major engine malfunctions. I once witnessed an electronic analysis performed on a mid-1970s car that indicated internal engine damage when the cause was actually two deteriorated vacuum hoses that were part of the car’s emissions equipment. A vacuum gauge diagnosed the problem in short order.

A cooling system pressure tester can also reveal internal engine problems, such as leaking head and intake manifold gaskets, as well as issues with the car’s cooling system.

A remote starter (right) allows one person to crank the engine over from under the hood while conducting a compression check, adjusting valves, setting ignition points, or finding TDC.(Actron)

A compression gauge is a must-have for diagnosis work and can reveal or eliminate several potentially costly engine problems. A compression check and comparison of all the engine’s cylinders, performed with the engine at normal operating temperature, is one of the first and most important steps in the diagnosis stage.

A simple and inexpensive 12-volt test light can be used to perform a number of diagnostic tasks relating to the engine’s electrical and ignition system.

A multimeter is a more sophisticated means of checking the electrical system’s function that still carries a reasonable price tag.

A dial caliper is an inexpensive and valuable addition to your toolbox. It will allow quick, accurate measurements of smaller parts.

Feeler gauges are used for setting valve lash, ignition breaker points, and measuring the end gap of piston rings.

Often the piston rings purchased for your rebuild will not have the required end gap when installed in the cylinder bores. In such a case, you will need a specialized tool called a ring filer to remove material from the ends of the individual ring until the gap is correct.

An air-gun attachment for your compressor hose will aid in drying all the nooks, crannies, and bolt holes in your cylinder block after they have been cleaned with soap and water. In a pinch I have used canned air designed for dusting electronic equipment, but that gets expensive quickly.