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© 2014 by Charles Morris
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Edit by Paul Johnson
Layout by Connie DeFlorin
ISBN 978-1-61325-118-8
Item No. SA281
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Morris, Charles R.
Ford Y-block engines : how to rebuild and modify / Charles R. Morris.
pages cm
1. Ford automobile–Motors–Maintenance and repair. 2. Ford automobile–Motors–Modification. I. Title.
TL215.F7M667 2014
629.25›040288–dc23
2013035436
Written, edited, and designed in the U.S.A.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Title Page:
A supercharged 322-ci Y-block is installed in this beautiful 1957 Ford Custom, which belongs to Rich Stuck of Brick, New Jersey.
Back Cover Photos
Top Left:
Here, the crankshaft is treated to a Magnaflux test for cracks. A magnetic powder is applied to areas of the crankshaft prone to cracks, such as oil supply holes, after which a magnetic field is introduced. The magnetic powder collects in any cracks; a crack in a crankshaft may not spell doom for the part. For a crankshaft the location, length, and depth of the crack are the determining factors.
Top Right:
With the piston and rod assembly seated against the crankshaft journal, remove the protective boots from the rod bolts. Check the connecting rod bearing clearance to be sure it is within specification. As done with the main journal, place a small piece of Plastigauge on the rod journal.
Middle Left:
The bowl areas under each intake and exhaust valve are blended. In doing so, you are not attempting to change the cylinder head’s original configuration, but merely seeking to improve efficiency for a better-running longer-lasting engine.
Middle Right:
With the timing chain and gears in place, properly aligned and tightened, and camshaft end play checked, slide the oil slinger onto the snout of the crankshaft.
Bottom Left:
Use a feeler gauge to determine the gap between the tip of the valve and the face of the rocker arm. Each rocker arm has an adjuster that is turned until the proper gap has been achieved. You can feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge when lash is correct. Valve lash is set again with the engine hot after initial start-up.
Bottom Right:
Although not lighter than the stamped OEM valley cover, this cast-aluminum cover looks great and is less likely than an OEM part to leak due to bending from being overtightened. Using a proper sealant and snugging the hardware without overtightening keeps the top of the engine dry.
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