The Tribes Triumphant: Return Journey to the Middle East
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Charles Glass. The Tribes Triumphant: Return Journey to the Middle East
CHARLES GLASS. The Tribes Triumphant. RETURN JOURNEY. TO THE MIDDLE EAST
DEDICATION
EPIGRAPH
CONTENTS
MAP
ONE. Imperial Wars
11 September 2001
Slow Boat to the Levant
Dreams on Maps
TWO. Aqaba, Fourteen Years Late
Port of Entry
My First Evening
A Ramble with Staff Sergeant Amrin
An Oriental Garden
THREE. Royal Cities
Seeking the Nabataeans
Ancient Philadelphia
Welcome to Amman
Notables in Exile
A History Lesson
The Grand Vizier
Farewell to Amman
FOUR. Over Jordan
On the West Bank
Daughter of the Final Solution
Daughter of the Revolution
Palestinian Neighbours
Defending the Doomed
Hidden Treasure
The View from the Convent
The Room Down
Hitch-hikers and Taxis
An Interrupted Lunch
FIVE. O, No, Jerusalem!
Peace for Sale
Do-gooders
The Producer
The Hill of Evil Counsel
Lovely Lily
Death in the Family
Return to the Asylum
Living Within the Walls
An Incident After Dark
Refuseniks
An Émigré Returns
In the Think-Tank
The Artist and his Stones
SIX. Gaza
A Foreign Field
Entry
The Paediatrician
Fearless in Gaza
The Honourable Member for Khan Younes
Day Trip to Khan Younes
A Young Man of Business
Morning by the Sea
Civil Society
Back to the Think-Tank
SEVEN. Jerusalem, from the West
Yom Kippur
The Anniversary of the Mosque
The Only Democracy in the Middle East
Bookshops, Cafés, etc
Histories
The Older Battle
Digging in the Files
EIGHT. Return to Gaza
The Same, but Worse
Gaza’s Grand Old Man
Reunion with Dr Jawad Tibi, MP
Balfour Day
NINE. The Desert
A Secular Shrine
An Inn in the Desert
The Anthroposophists
Wandering Tribes
A Deadly Sea
The Gorgon’s Head
TEN. Jaffa and Suburbs
A Viennese Library
The Tanner’s Well
Dear Hill, Spring Hill: The First All-Jewish City
The Last Warrior
After the Cleansing
ELEVEN. The North
Baring All For Strangers
An Abnormal City
Another Haifa Writer
The Druze Hinterland
A Military Vocabulary
TWELVE. Damascus Is Burning
The Road Up and the Road Down
Thawing Alaska
Back to the Beginning
SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY
INDEX
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
ALSO BY THE AUTHOR
COPYRIGHT
ABOUT THE PUBLISHER
Отрывок из книги
‘When the government is unable to provide for their safety, they will band themselves into tribes.’
SIR JOHN BAGOT GLUBB,
.....
I felt the paper and looked at Arabic words come to life. Why was Usama Khalidy content to leave the medical school to the next generation of instructors and to allow his daughters to choose their husbands and not to tyrannize his family or those exiled Jerusalem Muslims who might look to a Khalidy for leadership? What made tribal chiefs, family patriarchs, kings, policemen and dictators cling to power until death? What drove out or suppressed the most interesting, the most creative and the most original within the Arab family? Why did the Arab world fight against its best self?
Did Usama, who felt these questions in a more profound way than a visitor like myself, despair? He thought for a few seconds and said, ‘No.’ Why not? ‘We’re passing through a funny phase. At the same time, one has to remark that the Arabs are probably the world’s oldest living tradition. A child can read something written in Arabic fifteen hundred years ago and enjoy it. You cannot do that in English, for example. A child today cannot understand Chaucer and would have problems with Shakespeare. Our tradition is there. It has survived. It will survive. It’s getting much poorer, of course.’
.....