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Basic Ingredients

Almond essence is often used in desserts that contain ground almonds to bring out the flavor of the almonds. Concentrated almond essence is sold as a clear liquid in small bottles. Use sparingly.

Agar-agar is a thickening agent obtained from seaweed. It is widely used to thicken soups, sauces and desserts, for it sets without refrigeration. Commonly sold in small packets of fine white powder, agar-agar is also available in the form of bars, strips and flakes. Powdered gelatin may be used as a substitute although it gives a slightly different texture. Dried forms of agar-agar will keep indefinitely in an airtight container.

Banana leaf is indispensable as a food wrapper, used to wrap food for steaming or grilling. The moisture within the banana leaf makes a difference to the texture and flavor of the food, but if you can't find fresh or frozen leaves, use aluminium foil. Before using to wrap food, the leaves should be softened for easy folding, either by soaking in hot water for 5 to 10 minutes or briefly heating over a low flame.

Black beans are small beans with a shiny black coat. They have an earthy flavor and a mealy texture and are commonly used in Thai desserts. Both dried and precooked canned black beans are available throughout the year.

Cassava or tapioca is a root with dark or light brown skin and ivory white flesh. The starch extracted from cassava root is commonly sold as tapioca starch or tapioca flour, or shaped into small balls known as tapioca pearls. Mature cassava is boiled as a vegetable, while very young roots are grated and used in desserts. Choose small young roots, as the texture will be better, and make sure that they smell fresh. Cassava can be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for 2 to 3 days, but is best used as soon as possible.

Coconut cream and coconut milk are used in desserts and curries. Fresh coconut cream is made by grating the flesh of 1 coconut (this will yield about 4 cups of grated coconut flesh), adding 1/2 cup of water, kneading a few times, then straining with your fist, or with a muslin or cheesecloth. This should yield about 1/2 cup of coconut cream. Thick coconut milk is obtained by the same method, but the water is doubled to 1 cup and it should yield about 1 cup of thick coconut milk. Thin coconut milk is obtained by adding 1 cup of water to the already pressed coconut flesh a second time and straining again; this should yield 1 cup of thin coconut milk. You may also obtain thin coconut milk by diluting the thick coconut milk with water. Coconut cream and milk are now widely sold in cans and packets that are quick, convenient and tasty. Canned or packet coconut cream or milk comes in varying consistencies depending on the brand, and you will need to try them out and adjust the thickness by adding water as needed. In general, you should add 1cup of water to 1cup of canned or packet coconut cream to obtain thick coconut milk, and add 2cups of water to 1cup of coconut cream to obtain thin coconut milk. Many of the recipes in this book call for thick coconut milk. If the more diluted Thai brand is used, purchase packets that are labeled "Thai coconut cream."

Dried lotus seeds are commonly used in desserts. Most lotus seeds are sold with the bitter central core or endosperm already removed (if so, the seeds will have a narrow slit on both sides). Sometimes, there are a few rogues with the cores still intact, so check and if you see a dark greenish center at the top of the seed, split it open and flick out the core. Lotus seeds should be stored in an airtight container in the cupboard; they keep for many months.

Glutinous rice is a variety of short grain rice which is sticky when cooked. Used in a number of dessert recipes throughout Thailand, it is also eaten as a staple with normal meals in North and Northeast Thailand. Two types of glutinous rice are commonly used: white and black. Glutinous rice needs to be soaked in water overnight or for at least 3 hours before boiling.

Glutinous rice flour is made from white glutinous rice grains that are ground into a powder. It is stickier than normal rice flour after being cooked. Because of its chewy texture, glutinous rice flour is a favorite base for dumplings, buns and pastries. Glutinous rice flour made from black sweet rice is black or dark purple.

Jackfruit is a large tropical fruit, often over 30 cm (12 in) across and over 50 cm (20 in) long, with a rough, bumpy skin. The unripe fruit is eaten as a vegetable and cooked in curries. The sweet ripe bright yellow fruit is eaten raw or cooked in desserts.

Mung beans are small beans with a bright green seed coat. An important ingredient in Thai desserts, mung beans have a pale yellow seed inside. Mung beans are commonly used to make bean sprouts and as a source of starch for cellophane or glass noodles. They are most often sold shelled and sometimes split in dried form. Before using, soak the beans in cold water for several hours and then boil until tender.

Palm sugar is made from the sweet sap harvested from cut flower buds of sugar or coconut palm trees. Palm sugar varies greatly in color, consistency and sweetness. This ranges from the soft, gooey and creamy beige type which is sold in plastic jars to the crystallized hard and dark brown palm sugar sold in round disks or blocks wrapped in clear plastic or dried leaves. The dark brown palm sugar is generally sweeter and more fragrant than the others, although all types can be used for most recipes. If you cannot find palm sugar, replace with dark brown sugar or maple syrup. Hard palm sugar should be shaved or grated into small chunks or melted in the microwave oven to measure before using. Store palm sugar in the same way as normal sugar.

Pandanus leaves are long and slender blade-like dark green leaves of a member of the pandanus palm or screwpine family. They impart a sweet floral fragrance that is popular in Southeast Asian desserts. Their intense green color is also used as a natural food coloring. Look for fresh leaves. Pound or process a bunch of pandanus leaves in a blender with a little water, then strain through a fine sieve to obtain pandanus extract. Bottled pandanus essence is also available. The Thais use pandanus in the same way Westerners use vanilla in their cooking. Rose or vanilla essence can be used as a substitute.

Rice flour is made from uncooked rice grains that are ground to a powder. It is used mainly in desserts. Fresh rice flour may be made by soaking rice grains overnight and then grinding it slowly in a blender. Dried rice flour is readily available in packets.

Taro root is a starchy tuber that looks like and is used like a potato. It has a brown and hairy outer skin that must first be removed before cooking. Its flesh may be white, pink or purplish inside with the texture of a potato but a unique taste and flavor. It is normally boiled, baked, fried or steamed. In making Thai desserts, taro root is often boiled or steamed and then mashed into a paste. There are two kinds of taro—a larger one the size of a baseball and a miniature taro similar in size to a baby potato. Choose taro root that is firm and hairy. It may be stored in a cool and dry place for up to a week.

Water chestnuts are tubers that resemble chestnuts in color and shape. They lend a sweet flavor and white crunchy texture to many dishes, especially desserts. This firm and crisp Chinese vegetable is available fresh, processed and canned. Choose firm, unblemished ones and peel off the black outer skin before using. Fresh water chestnuts can be stored refrigerated up to a week covered in water.