Читать книгу Through Japan with Brush & Ink - Chiura Obata - Страница 10

§ 10. Izu-Kawana

At one time the summer villa of the late Baron Okura, the Kawana Hotel stands in the midst of a great estate of several hundred acres, including two beautiful golf courses. Because of its mild climate, tempered by its Pacific coastline, plus the views of Hatsushima, Oshima, and other islands off its shores, one can almost imagine himself at Carmel with its Seventeen-Mile Drive, looking eastward over the mightiest of oceans.

§ 11. Izu Bay from the Fuji Observation Point at Hakone

Lying beyond tier upon tier of mountain ranges struggling to harmonize with the panorama, Izu Peninsula lies dreamily remote.

§ 12. Looking at Mt. Fuji from Daikanzan

Throughout the four seasons with their subtle changes of the scene one enjoys boundless views of Mt. Fuji whether he stays in one place or moves from vantage point to vantage point around its massive base. Among such endlessly pleasurable views, the one from Daikanzan (Mt. Daikan) is certainly the most dramatic. Before one lies Ashinoko (Lake Ashi) from whose distant shore rise rolling hills in a crescendo toward Fuji's very summit. By late afternoon, light deepens into shadow in the distance, while the few remaining clouds drift idly by leaving Fuji standing in the clear, calm evening sky.

§ 13. In the Gathering Dusk at Ashinoko

On his way to Ashinoko, after passing Jikkoku Toge (Jikkoku Pass) the traveler encounters this tranquil scene lying far below him in the evening calm.

§ 14. Mt. Fuji from Ashinoko, Hakone

The steep slopes around Ashinoko afford the viewer endless enjoyment because of their constantly changing shades and tints. Above and beyond them all towers Fuji in the distance like a prima donna surrounded by her chorus.

§ 15. Lakeshore at Ashinoko, Hakone

Wakasagi means pond smelt. Here we see a smelt fisherman's boat near the northern shore, rising and falling drowsily in the morning sun.

§ 16. The Torii of Hakone Shrine on Ashinoko

As the excursion boat nears Ashinoko's northern shore, Fuji grows ever more resplendent. The traveler marvels at the vermilion torii rising out of the Persian blue surface of the lake with a Japanese cedar grove serving as its backdrop.

§ 17. The Ferry Landing on Ashinoko

Within an hour ride from the Fujiya Hotel lie the deep blue waters of Ashinoko, the famous crater lake. Boarding a chartered ferryboat on its southern shore, one cruises northward and is treated to numerous views of Mt. Fuji above the distant hills. Then, when the eye becomes wearied by such grandeur, one can let his glances fall on shady places along the lake's shore, where mandarin ducks swim peacefully.

§ 18. Mt. Fuji at Daybreak from Owakidani

If you are once so fortunate as to see Mt. Fuji at dawn from Owakidani, then count yourself a lucky person, indeed! The following saying is proverbial in Japan. "If one be born under a lucky enough star he might just possibly experience a perfect view of Fuji." For our own part, the best we can say is that we have been trying. Year after year, rain or shine (and more usually the former), we have risen at dawn, hastily thrown on some clothes and rushed down to ask the desk clerk to telephone immediately the Hakone Hotel on the shores of Ashinoko in order to find out whether the weather conditions are to be propitious. "Miete kimashita!" comes the reply: "We can see it now!" We hire a taxi and head toward this beautiful vantage point at Owakidani, Hakone!