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INTRODUCTION

A typical eastern Cotswold view over ripening corn and rolling hills – near Chadlington (Route 9)

The track in front of me was smooth, dry and flat and there wasn’t another soul in sight. To my right the mirror-calm water reflected the blue skies overhead, with a few fluffy white clouds adding extra interest. Splashes of colour from brightly-painted canal boats and tall, motionless green spikes of bankside vegetation added to the tranquil scene. I was on the Stroudwater Canal near Slimbridge (Route 16) and had stopped to take some photos of the peaceful early-morning scene. A moment later I was particularly glad I hadn’t just hurtled by at speed...

A swan was snoozing quietly in the shade of tall reeds, all curled up with her sinuous head buried beneath a wing, now and again raising it drowsily at some gentle background noise. As I was about to edge past her, another early-morning cyclist arrived rather abruptly, seeing the swan (and me waving my arms) only at the last minute. He then rode carefully past this sleepy queen of the canal, keeping as far away as he could. But we needn’t have worried: she was far more concerned about catching up on her beauty sleep than hissing territorially at either of us.

On another occasion I was pedalling as fast as I could up a steep but short slope; that day I was on an off-road section of Akeman Street (Route 18), grinning from ear to ear as I overcame a challenge that looked more difficult than it was in practice.

Such is the variety of terrain in the Cotswolds, from quiet lanes and challenging tracks to thriving (and busy) villages and town centres. And unexpected wildlife encounters seem far more common when travelling by bicycle – the quiet but relatively fast approach on two wheels allowing you to get a bit closer than perhaps by any other means of transport, including feet.

Cotswold stone houses beside the River Eye in Lower Slaughter (Route 4)

The Cotswolds are deservedly one of the most popular Areas of Outstanding National Beauty (AONB) in the country, and its honeypot (and honey-coloured) limestone villages and wool towns such as Bourton-on-the-Water, Broadway and Bibury are the embodiment of ‘olde-worlde’ rural England. Although summer tourists can make these places very busy, the bustle can soon be left behind on the quiet lanes and tracks that criss-cross this wonderfully varied region, passing such delights as purple lavender fields and swathes of wildflowers peppering the unimproved limestone grassland.

These, and the relatively gentle terrain, really lend the Cotswolds to cycling. But make no mistake: it’s not flat! There are plenty of hills here, often gentle and rolling in nature, although some are surprisingly steep – they just don’t ascend to such lofty heights as some of the more renowned hilly areas of the UK.

The routes in this book cover between 14km (9 miles) and 64km (40 miles) in a day, leading up to a 208km (130 miles) four-day route that visits many Cotswold highlights.

Geology

In the Jurassic Period (roughly 200–145 million years ago), the land that now forms the Cotswold Hills was in the tropics and completely underwater. The depth of these tropical seas varied over time, with the deeper waters producing thick clays and the shallower seas forming limestone from the shells of marine creatures living and dying in the waters.

Rolling hillside east of the scarp edge near Snowshill (Route 22, Day 2)

More recently (geologically speaking) the land has tilted, leading to a steep scarp slope on the northwest edge of the region and rolling hills towards the south and east. This is illustrated in the steep slopes above Cheltenham (Route 20) and the gentler, plateau-like terrain above the Slaughters (Route 4).

The clay rocks are known as ‘Lias’ – a term invented by 18th-century quarry workers to describe the layered rock, and adopted by William Smith, a canal-building engineer who went on to become the ‘Father of Geology’ (See Route 9 for more on William Smith). The limestone is Oolitic – where the regular structure of spherical crystals looks like a collection of eggs. This is divided into two groups: Inferior Oolites are the older of the two, and tend to be found on the scarp slopes of the northwest Cotswolds; Greater Oolites are more typically found on the gentler slopes outside the north west, and form the region’s traditional honey-coloured building limestone, the colour being typically more pronounced towards the north of the region. Its evenness of grain (enabling it to be cut in any direction) and durability made it the preferred building stone for many prestigious buildings, such as St Paul’s Cathedral.

Glacial and post-glacial meltwater rivers have also contributed to the sometimes surprisingly hilly nature of the Cotswolds – with the Stroud valleys (Routes 19 and 22) being good examples of deeply-incised river valleys in the region.

The greater presence of clays to the south end of the Cotswolds means there is a greater chance here of encountering boggy, slow-drying ground; when these begin to ‘bog out’ or flood, routes in the north are more likely to still be rideable.

Wildlife, plants and flowers

This heron on the Kennet and Avon Canal seems remarkably unafraid of humans (Route 6)

The Cotswolds area is of national importance for some of the smaller and shyer species of wildlife. The watercourses in particular are among the last remaining strongholds of the nationally scarce water vole, although even here it is a rare sighting. Otters are beginning to make a comeback along the headwaters of the Thames; dragon and damselflies are rather more common sightings.

On dry land, hares and fallow deer are frequent sightings; less common are glimpses of weasels, badgers and foxes. Unimproved grassland, hay meadows and common areas are often host to sunbathing adders and all sorts of butterflies, including several varieties of fritillary and blue butterflies.

Birdwatchers may get frequent sightings of the red kite, or a more commonplace buzzard circling overhead. Skylarks warble high in the sky, with swallows performing acrobatic displays at a lower altitude, and herons can sometimes be seen on the banks of canals and rivers.

Ancient beech woodland can be found along the scarp slopes near Winchcombe; other common trees throughout the Cotswolds include oak, ash, hawthorn, willow, maple and hazel. Traditionally these (willow in particular) were coppiced or pollarded.

The fields near Snowshill (Route 22) are transformed when the lavender comes out in late summer

In spring, pungent white flowers of wild garlic or a blue-purple carpet of bluebells (often both together) cover the floors of limestone woodlands. Come summer, prolific wildflowers such as blue meadow cranesbill (wild geraniums) and orchids, and common buttercups and daisies, adorn the grassy verges. In fields, green or golden cereals and the bright yellow of oil-seed rape are commonplace, with two less-common crops being the purple flowers of flax and lavender. If you’re lucky you may see bright splashes of red where poppies have grown among the crops.

History

The Cotswolds have a long history of human settlement, with a few early finds dating back to the Stone Age. However, the earliest records of widespread settlement in the region begin around 4000BC in the Neolithic era (the late Stone Age). Some places, such as Salmondsbury Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) near Bourton-on-the-Water (Routes 4 and 7) are thought to have been farmed continuously since that time. Burial chambers from Neolithic to Roman times are commonplace – such as the long barrows of Belas Knap (near Route 22, Day 1) and Hetty Pegler’s Tump (close to Route 16).

The Romans left many signs of their presence in the 1st to 5th centuries: Corinium forms the basis of modern-day Cirencester; the remnants of several Roman roads such as the Fosse Way and Ryknield Street still criss-cross the region; and archaeological evidence suggests several wealthy Romans had villas in the region. When the Romans eventually went south, Angles and (more often) Saxons moved in, with Alfred the Great (of Wessex) and Aethelstan (the first King of England) being of notable mention.

Northleach was granted a market charter in AD1227 (Route 18)

During the late Dark and early Middle Ages the region became wealthy from sheep-farming, particularly after fuller’s earth – a local type of clay rich in silica – was discovered to be excellent for removing grease from raw fleece. The wool merchants spent some of their considerable wealth on restoring or rebuilding the market towns and churches of the region.

In the 18th and 19th centuries transport routes by canal and railway grew rapidly across the region, but little new industry was attracted as the area had no nearby source of coal for power. Nowadays the major industries are tourism and agriculture.

Art, culture and local festivities

One of the organisers of the Tetbury Woolsack Races lifts the 60lb woolsack onto his upper back – the position most contestants use to run with it

With the home of Shakespeare to the north and the Georgian grandeur of Bath to the south, it should come as no surprise that the Cotswolds are home to a thriving cultural scene. Tourist information centres and online websites (see Appendix E) are good sources of information for current events. Local magazines such as Cotswold Life also highlight upcoming events.

The more unusual events in the region include:

 Tetbury Woolsack Races (May), where contestants race between two pubs, up and down a hill with a 1:4 gradient, while carrying a 60lb sack of wool.

 Robert Dover’s Cotswold Olimpicks (May), where the highlight of events is shin-kicking. This version of the Olympic games has been going for over 400 years.

 Cooper’s Hill Cheese Rolling Festival (May/June), where contestants chase a Double Gloucester cheese down a hill whose gradient approaches 1:1.

 Bourton-on-the Water river football (August), where the shin-deep river forms the pitch and goalposts are set up under the bridges.

 Morris dancing can be seen throughout the year, often in busier tourist towns and villages. Its origins are lost in time, but two main theories suggest either it started as a fertility ritual or as a war dance.

 Stow-on-the-Wold’s Gypsy Horse Fairs in May and October.

 Levellers Day in Burford (May) celebrates a 1649 pro-democracy demonstration against Cromwell by some of his New Model Army.

Food and drink

In a region that owes much of its former prosperity to wool, it should come as no surprise that lamb is a local speciality. The ‘Cotswold Lion’ sheep, introduced by the Romans, produces very fine-quality wool, and its meat tends to be milder and less ‘gamey’ than other breeds. Another speciality is Gloucestershire Old Spot pork, whether as a sausage cob from Huffkins in Burford (Route 18) or as a full-blown pork belly dinner at the Slaughters Country Inn (Route 4).

On the northern edge of the Cotswolds is the Vale of Evesham, widely regarded as the fruit and vegetable basket of Britain. Asparagus and soft tree fruits are specialities that make their way into many Cotswolds recipes.

The olde worlde Englishness typical of Cotswolds villages lends itself to a time-honoured tradition: the cream tea. A well-earned treat after a good workout on the bike!

Local treats worth burning some calories for: asparagus, a Cotswold cream tea and a pint of local real ale

The region has a thriving real ale scene with too many microbreweries to mention. Wychwood and Hook Norton are the larger and better-known breweries (Wadworth’s also historically brewed in Burford). Lesser-known breweries include Donnington (near Stow), Goffs (near Winchcombe), Cotswold Lion (near Cheltenham) and Stroud (in Stroud, naturally).

As usual in the UK, wine aficionados have few local choices, but of note is the Co-op’s recent (2010) establishment of a vineyard near Cirencester, beside woods believed to be a former Roman vineyard. Their first batch of wine is due to market in 2014.

Getting around

By train

Travellers intending to use trains to get around the region should read Appendix C for more information on relevant train operating companies and their main requirements in relation to carrying bikes. The main routes run from Birmingham to Bristol (via Cheltenham); Swindon to Cheltenham; Oxford to Worcester; Birmingham to Stratford; and Worcester to Stratford.

By car

Parking in the Cotswolds is strictly controlled in many places, both in pay and display car parks and on the roadside. However, it is often possible to find free parking close to many of the routes – just ensure that any vehicle is parked legally and with consideration for residents, who have to put up with visitors invading their world every summer! Also remember that farmers often need spontaneous access to apparently overgrown field entrances, and that agricultural vehicles may need a wide turning circle close to and opposite gates.

Individual route descriptions suggest parking options available locally. Further parking information can be found online at Parkopedia www.parkopedia.co.uk.

When to go

In autumn, the leaves of many of the local trees turn a fantastic shade of red. These are Acer (maple) trees at the world-renowned Westonbirt Arboretum near Malmesbury (near Route 21)

The best time to cycle in the Cotswolds is in early summer. Throughout the summer, days are longer, the weather is warmer (if not always sunnier!) and routes tend to be much less muddy than in winter. On the downside, accommodation and transport are busier, more expensive and get booked up earlier; vegetation begins to invade paths; and popular centres such as Bourton-on-the-Water, Broadway, Bibury and Winchcombe can get heaving (especially at weekends). However, peace and quiet can be found just a couple of kilometres away from these places – even in midsummer.

Early autumn and late spring can also offer great cycling: the weather can often be dry and sunny (if windy); the days are still reasonably long and vegetation is less of an issue. Accommodation is cheaper and less busy than in summer, as are trains and tourist centres, but festivals are fewer.

But beware the Jekyll-and-Hyde nature of off-road surfaces. When dry, the trails are hard-baked and although they may be bouncy or even bone-shaking they usually offer a relatively easy-going surface. Light or short-lived rain will not have a major effect on this once the ground has dried out in spring. Once wet-through, however, the surface can acquire the thick gloopy consistency of a bog, and may flood.

Unless you like thick, clarty, dauby sticky stuff, winter is definitely not recommended for the novice cyclist, and even the more experienced cyclist may wish to stick more to the roads. However, for the experienced and prepared cyclist, particularly one who enjoys a thoroughly muddy off-road challenge, winter offers a quiet and adventurous angle to a cycling visit to the Cotswolds.

All of the route descriptions in this book assume dry summer conditions.

Accommodation

Accommodation is widely available throughout the Cotswolds, although there are only a few hostels. Due to its popularity with tourists, the region’s hotels and B&Bs can seem quite expensive, especially in the summer season. The high demand for rooms during this time means it’s best to book your bed well in advance.

Many accommodation providers in the more remote areas assume arrival by car, which isn’t always helpful for cyclists. It’s also worth bearing in mind that some of the smaller villages may have just one option, or even none at all, for accommodation and refreshments. Appendix E contains details of websites that are useful for researching and booking accommodation in the Cotswolds, including websites that provide information specifically on cycle-friendly accommodation. A number of establishments in the area have cycle-friendly accreditation, but wherever you decide to stay it’s advisable to check before booking that there will be somewhere safe to store your bike overnight and facilities for drying wet gear.

Bases of a reasonable size from which to explore the Cotswolds include (roughly south to north):

 Bath, Bradford on Avon or Bristol (Routes 6, 10 and 15)

 Cirencester or Stroud (Routes 8, 12, 13, 14, 16, 19 and 22)

 Bourton-on-the-Water or Stow-on-the-Wold (Routes 3, 4, 7, 9, 17, 18 and 22)

 Cheltenham or Tewkesbury (Routes 5, 20 and 22)

 Chipping Campden or Shipston-on-Stour (Routes 1, 2, 7, 17 and 22)

 Stratford-upon-Avon (1, 2, 11 and 22).

A good starting point for your accommodation search is www.cyclistswelcome.co.uk – the Cyclists’ Touring Club’s (CTC’s) list of cycle-friendly accommodation. For a more general search try www.cotswolds.com.

What to wear

Newcomers to cycling would be forgiven for thinking head-to-toe Lycra in lurid colours is essential, judging by the attire of some road cycling clubs. Fortunately this is not the case, although there are certain items of clothing that will make your ride more comfortable and therefore more enjoyable.

Cycling shorts

Cycling (padded) shorts make life on the bike much more comfortable, particularly for those new to cycling or on longer routes. These do not need to be your only layer – they easily fit underneath most pairs of more stylish and loose-fitting shorts (many shorts aimed at mountain bikers are designed in this way). You can also get padded cycling underwear if you prefer the two-layer approach. Most cyclists wouldn’t ride without some form of proper cycling shorts!

Breathable upper and lower outer layers

The British weather can change notoriously quickly, especially on higher ground, and a sunny day can quickly become windy and wet. The number and type of layers you should wear will depend on the time of year, but be careful not to overburden yourself. This is very much a personal preference, but as a minimum a lightweight, breathable and quick-drying jacket that is both windproof and waterproof will make poor weather (expected or not) much more bearable. If it is also in a hi-visibility colour such as yellow or orange, with reflective patches, it will improve your safety for no extra weight. Breathability is important to allow sweat created going uphill (or into strong winds) to escape.

Trouser legs should ideally be close-fitting, particularly around the ankles, to avoid catching in the chain ring. If they are not, tuck them into your socks.

Cycling gloves

Shock-absorbing patches in the palms offer more comfort to your arms, particularly on off-road sections where vibrations are more intense. Outside the summer season your hands will chill surprisingly quickly in wet or cool conditions; full-fingered waterproof gloves are therefore preferable.

Shades

These are extremely useful – even on a rainy day. As well as reducing glare from bright or low sun, they also keep flying insects, mud and driving rain out of your eyes. Some cyclists wear clear shades on every ride.

Cycling shoes/clip-in pedals

Stiff cycling shoes are useful, but adding SPD plates to ‘clip in’ is best left until you’re sure it’s worth the money and the time getting used to them

It’s worthwhile wearing cycle shoes. They may look like normal trainers or leisure shoes, but they have stiffened soles that prevent foot pain and long-term problems associated with the concentrated pressure of cycling.

As your cycling progresses and you tackle longer and harder routes, clip-in pedals may become worthwhile. These positively lock your feet to the pedals, requiring a heel-twist to unlock. Besides keeping feet secure on rough ground, they allow you to pull up on the pedals as well as pushing down.

Most cycle shoes feature attachment points for the shoe cleats, which are supplied with the pedals, so clip-in pedals can be added later. However, the ‘locked-in’ feeling can be unnerving if you are not used to it, so only make this progression when you are confident.

What to take

Which type of bike?

All the routes in this book could be done on road bikes, in which case you will need to follow the on-road detours marked on the maps and highlighted in the sidebar beside some route descriptions. But you’ll have more fun, and be able to explore quieter trails and tracks, if you’re prepared to take a mountain bike or a hybrid (or ‘sturdy’) bike, which will manage the off-road sections fine in dry conditions. In wet conditions, the best bike to take, if you wish to tackle the off-road sections, will be a mountain bike.

Other basic equipment

Reputable cycle hire centres will usually provide you with a lock, pump and helmet free of charge. Most will also provide a small repair kit (enough to change an inner tube), but you may well have to ask for this. A lock is a good idea if you plan to leave your cycle unattended.

Although many hire centres will encourage you to wear a helmet, there is no requirement under UK law to wear one and it is entirely up to individual cyclists to decide for themselves. Parents should bear in mind younger children’s vulnerability and instability; protective gear comes in all shapes and colours these days and will not necessarily seem ‘uncool’ or off-putting to young people.

Toolkit

Appendix D contains detailed information about the tools you might need on a cycle trip – including a step-by-step puncture repair guide.

Water bottles

These (one or two, depending on route length) can be held in frame-mounted bottle cages.

Luggage

Although it is possible to carry day kit in a small rucksack, it is much more pleasant and comfortable to carry things in a handlebar bag, rear rack bag or (for larger loads) panniers. Handlebar bags with a clear top pocket to carry a map can be particularly useful. If you use electronic rather than paper maps you may prefer the type that securely holds a small tablet. Smartphone apps (such as Strava or MapMyRide) for cycling are becoming increasingly common; they provide electronic mapping and a log (along with stats) of your route, and they may well become the norm in the future. But beware: satellite GPS eats batteries. Many cyclists also complain of poor visibility in bright light, and smartphones are expensive to replace if damaged by rain, mud or falls.

All luggage should be properly and securely fitted using appropriate brackets, with panniers also requiring a rear rack. Beware of wheels becoming snagged by loose straps or floppy panniers.

Maps

The size of this book constrains the scale of mapping that can be used within it; as such, it is advisable to take with you some form of larger-scale mapping, such as Ordnance Survey (OS) 1:50K Landranger or 1:25K Explorer sheets. (Downloaded electronic versions are good, but beware of relying on online-only versions such as Open Street Map or Google Maps, as these require a strong mobile signal, lots of battery power, a clear view of the sky and phone-based satellite GPS.)

 Explorer: sheet 45 covers much of the northern Cotswolds; elsewhere you will need sheets 155, 156, 167, 168, 179, 180, 191 or 205

 Landranger: sheets 151, 163, 164, 172 or 173

Relevant local sheets seem to be becoming less commonly available in local village stores and petrol stations, and are perhaps best bought in advance of a visit.

Waymarking and access

Gates

Gates are very common in the Cotswolds – expect to find one at each end of every field and across any nice off-road downhill

Gates abound on entry to/exit from and between fields, particularly on bridleways (rather than byways). I have only mentioned gates where they are vital for navigation, but if you assume there will be a gate at the start and end of every field and across any good downhill off-road trail, you won’t go far wrong!

Waymarking signs

Many of the routes in this book make use of Sustrans National Cycle Network routes. These are often waymarked with bright blue stickers on lamp posts and other street furniture – places where the signs are easy to spot and harder for bored kids to remove or redirect than conventional fingerposts. They can be very useful, particularly in built-up areas.

Rights of way

Cyclists are permitted on bridleways, restricted byways (no motorised vehicles) and byways (all vehicles allowed).

Bridleways are usually marked with a blue arrow; byways with a ‘byway’ sign, or sometimes a red arrow; footpaths (which cyclists may not legally ride on) with a yellow arrow. However, it is generally accepted that you can dismount and walk with your bike over a footpath, as is required for a short section of Route 6. Clearly, common sense must also apply: you should not try to push a bike over a narrow single-file footpath where this would cause inconvenience to walkers.

To confuse the situation, however, there are some footpaths you may ride on. These are typically in urban areas, where many footpaths have become shared pedestrian/cycle path routes (and should be marked with a blue bicycle symbol, sometimes with and sometimes without a pedestrian symbol).

For some other paths the rights are either unclear, lost in time, or (again, particularly in urban areas) in the process of change. They might be commonly used by cycles without landowner opposition, or (occasionally) with landowner encouragement. You should always approach such areas with caution, and if challenged be prepared to dismount or deviate.

Cycle path etiquette

This is particularly important when the route is busy and shared with pedestrians.

 It’s fine to go fast if the way is clear, but always slow down to a gentle pace when nearing and passing pedestrians or slower cyclists, or on narrow sections of route.

 Sound your bell as you get close to pedestrians and slower cyclists if you wish to pass them, as this is easiest for other path users to comprehend on a busier route.

 When passing other cycles or pedestrians, use normal road sense: cycle on the left when meeting oncoming people, and don’t overtake if the way ahead isn’t clear!

 Be extremely cautious when cycling under bridges and tunnels – these are often very narrow with restricted headroom at one side, and visibility is often limited.

 Take great care passing dogs (or lone walkers whose dogs may be hidden in the undergrowth), as these can unpredictably change direction or run out in front of you, sometimes with a long ‘tripwire’ lead between them and their owner.

Cycling efficiently

The routes in this book are intended for anyone of average fitness upwards. You do not have to be an athlete by any means, but you will need a basic level of fitness. The following advice may help with hills and off-road sections if you are new to cycling.

Uphill cycling

Uphill through Upper Swainswick village (Route 10)

I regularly see novice (and not-so novice!) cyclists struggling to push a bike up a steep hill, when just a few simple tips could turn a frustrating slog into a fun challenge (well, OK… perhaps the fun really comes from overcoming the ascent rather than the uphill effort itself). It’s so much more enjoyable when you can stay on the bike uphill as well as downhill.

 Use all of your lowest gears. That particularly includes those found on the smallest ‘hill-climbing’ front ring, which so many people ignore. Selecting a low gear in good time and moving gently uphill is far more efficient than standing on the pedals in too high a gear, or going too fast at the start and running out of steam later on.

 Set your saddle to the correct height – too low is a very common mistake for novices, resulting in pain and unnecessary fatigue in the thighs. The saddle should be roughly hip-height and your leg should be almost (but not completely) extended at the bottom of the stroke.

 If there is room and it is safe to do so, use the width of the route to zigzag. This eases the gradient and also helps to relieve monotony.

Off-road cycling

Grassy bridleway near Chavenage House (Route 19)

It takes time to get used to off-road riding but the following tips may help those who are new to the fun.

 Initially set the saddle a little lower than usual – this lowers your centre of balance and psychologically feels safer.

 The bike generally heads to the point you are looking at, so look at where you want to go (the route around the obstacle, not at the obstacle itself).

 Stay loose, grip the saddle lightly with your thighs, and let your knees and arms act as natural shock absorbers. Allow the bike to move around underneath you; in time you will find you act as a natural counterbalance to it.

 Often a bit of speed helps – but not so much that you couldn’t stop or swerve out of the way if something (or someone) is unexpectedly encountered.

 Bike geometry makes a difference and it’s worth reading up on this. I personally found a longer-than-usual frame length made a great difference to my off-road skills; other people prefer the fast response of a more ‘twitchy’ shorter-framed bike.

How hard are the routes?

Descending on the bridleway near Berryfields Farm

Everyone has different opinions on what makes a route difficult. Some people consider long distance the hardest thing, others the gradient or length of the steepest hill, or maybe the roughness of the surface underwheel or the use of A-roads. The information boxes at the start of each section in this book help to show the overall difficulty of individual routes.

Terrain

The terrain statistics shown in the information boxes at the start of each route give some clue as to the amount of off-road involved.

‘Trails’ are purpose-made traffic-free cycle routes, such as Sustrans-style routes. Such sections tend to be gently graded with a smooth, firm (gravel or tarmac) surface.

‘Off-road’ is any other non-road (or sometimes a former road) section, which may be steeper, rougher and muddier – or just an unclassified bit of road. In technical terms, it’s a middle ground between ‘out and back’ totally car-free cycling and that which more properly falls into technical mountain biking. Hybrid bikes (often referred to as ‘sturdy’ bikes, although this term includes any road bike that isn’t too narrow-tyred or fragile to be taken off-road) should usually manage most off-road routes in dry conditions, except for rough sections. Most of these are highlighted in the route description, but remember that the condition of the ground is variable depending on prevailing weather conditions. Also see additional notes in the information box at the start of each route.

The routes use many of the region’s quiet lanes, bridleways, byways and ancient paths. You will need traffic sense as the routes do use public roads, but most are suitable for families with older children who have mastered the rules of the road sufficiently to be safe in traffic.

Grades

For the purpose of this guidebook I’ve graded the routes Easy, Moderate or Challenging according to the following criteria. However, while the harder routes tend to include more challenges, the terrain statistics show that the easy routes aren’t devoid of them!

‘Easy’ routes are relatively short (less than 25km), not overly steep and should not climb one hill after another (cumulative ascent no more than 300m). They only travel along A-roads for very short sections in urban centres (although they may well have to cross them, and other minor roads can be surprisingly busy). They will not usually have much off-road terrain; any off-road tends to be easier than that found on harder routes, but short sections may seem unrideable if you have limited experience of off-road cycling.

‘Moderate’ routes can be longer (14km to 45km), have steeper ascents and more hills in general (cumulative ascent no more than 500m); they may also have very steep downhills. They may tackle short sections of A-road (sometimes outside of urban areas) where needed to join up parts of a good circular route, and may encounter rougher terrain on a more frequent basis or for a longer duration (eg lumpy but solid surfaces, mud and loose stones). These more challenging sections will never last too long, but again, short sections may seem unrideable if you have limited experience of off-road cycling.

Everyone has their own opinion on what makes a route hard – here the off-road climb is tough but short (Route 2)

‘Challenging’ routes may feel noticeably harder than the other routes in the book. They are the longer routes (35km to 60km) and typically have more than 500m of cumulative ascent. Although they’re likely to include short sections of technical mountain biking (Routes 21 and 17 in particular), they are never out-and-out technical off-road routes. However, they may contain short sections that many riders will consider unrideable on an otherwise great route.

Day route vs multi-day route

Although no stage in Route 22 is tougher than a ‘challenging’ route, riders should not underestimate the cumulative effect of fatigue on a multi-day outing. On the other hand, its relatively few off-road sections are optional and it is well suited to all types of bike. Keen, fit and experienced riders, particularly those on road bikes, may well wish to compress this route into a two- or three-day challenge.

Wet conditions

After prolonged rain (and often in winter) many routes change character completely from their hard-baked summer surface. Woodland bridleways in particular are notoriously slow to dry. Some route descriptions give suggestions for on-road detours to avoid more awkward off-road sections; it is recommended that you use an OS map in conjunction with these. A few of the routes may be simply impractical in very wet conditions due to the amount and state of the off-road. On all surfaces, remember that braking distances should be considerably extended in the wet.

Using this guide

The bridleway between Aston Somerville and Childswickham (Route 5)

This guide describes 21 day routes and one multi-day route, arranged roughly in order of difficulty from easy through to challenging. To find a route to suit your location and your ability, check the table in Appendix A. Timings are not given for routes because the variation between those who like to amble along enjoying the scenery and those who want to do the route with head down and flat out is simply too great. Also, your speed on any given route or day will vary based a whole variety of things such as terrain, poor weather (including it being too hot or facing a headwind) and fatigue.

As a vague rule of thumb, the day routes in this book are designed to occupy from a fairly leisurely half day (easier/shorter routes) to a full day (moderate/challenging, longer or particularly off-road routes), with stops for refreshments.

At-a-glance information is provided in a box at the beginning of each route: start/finish (OS map reference and place name); distance; total ascent and descent; grade; terrain (percentages of road/trail/off-road); refreshment, parking and cycle hire options; suitability for road bikes; details of connecting routes; and any additional notes relevant to the route. Route 22 (multi-day) also includes accommodation options. Clear route maps at 1:100,000 (1cm to 1km) and also simple profiles accompany each route description and GPX files are available for every route at www.cicerone.co.uk/CyclingCotswolds. See the back of this guide for full details.

Staying on-road

Where the main route described goes off-road, an on-road alternative is described in the margin and marked on the map with a dashed route line.

Warnings

Warnings, including comments about tricky terrain, are also highlighted in the margin on coloured panels to make them hard to miss.

Conventions and abbreviations

Routes on the Sustrans National Cycle Network are abbreviated to NCN followed by the route number, for example National Cycle Network Route 5 is NCN5. Long-distance cycle routes, such as the Avon Cycle Way, are also abbreviated to their acronyms (ACW).

‘Towards’ or ‘to’

Where a signpost or map direction takes you towards a place (such as Bibury), but you will turn off before getting there, it is described as ‘towards Bibury’. Where it takes you all the way there, it is written as ‘to Bibury’.

Key waypoints

Places and features are highlighted in bold in the route description if they are shown on the accompanying route map, giving you an at-a-glance checklist of key waypoints. OS Grid references are given in a few places where there is no other suitable landmark/map feature available.

Turnings and junctions

Generally, ‘bend’ is used to describe the course of the road, not a junction. For junctions, ‘bear’ or ‘fork’ means a deviation of noticeably less than 90°, whereas ‘turn’ means roughly 90° and a ‘sharp turn’ is more than 90°. ‘Dog-leg’ is used to describe a turn (with or without a junction) one way, closely followed by a turn in the opposite direction, to end up on roughly the original course.

Side-turns, minor, major and main roads and crossroads

In keeping with Bikeability conventions, this guidebook sometimes makes use of the terms ‘minor road’ and ‘major road’. These terms do not give any indication of size or traffic volume, but refer to the priority of traffic at a junction, with traffic (which includes bicycles) on a minor road having to give way to traffic on the major road.

Priorities are only mentioned where it is useful for navigational purposes or where they are deemed essential (for example a minor road meeting a major road on a steep descent or round a blind bend), but everybody will have a different opinion as to which priorities are important and which aren’t. It’s also worth bearing in mind that road layouts change over time.

I’ve also extended the terms to crossroads, so a ‘minor crossroads’ is one where you are on the major road and are crossing over minor roads, and a ‘major crossroads’ is one where you are on the minor road and have to give way to the major road.

A ‘main road’ is usually an A-road. I try to avoid these as much as possible, but the Cotswolds are riddled with them, and crossing over them, or using them for very short sections, is often unavoidable. In such cases these sections are kept as short as possible, and are ideally in areas of lower speed limits (for example within villages) or on a downhill stretch. There will, of course, always be the occasional exception to this – for example within Bath City Centre (Route 6).

Should you come across a junction that isn’t mentioned (these tend to be insignificant side-turns or a series of minor roads crossing over the major road in a short space of time), just remember the route will always take the major road (and usually continue straight ahead) if no other mention is made.

Sunset over the scarp edge looking down towards Winchcombe