Читать книгу Cycling in the Peak District - Chiz Dakin - Страница 9
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Cycling around a bend on a narrow moorland lane above Hathersage, I stopped briefly at a wider space on the lane to write up some notes from the route I was recceing. I’d only written a few words when the friend I was cycling with whispered, ‘Chiz, look over there – there’s a curlew on the ground!’ I dropped my pen and paper and shuffled over to a drystone wall, hoping that any movement I made would be hidden by the wall. Peeking over, there was not only one curlew but three, and they seemed to be in some sort of dispute – perhaps two males vying for the attention of a female!
Curlew flying over Bamford Moor (Route 16)
They were much larger than I’d imagined – previously having only ever heard them in the sky above – and by staying low by the drystone wall we were treated to a display of low-flying acrobatics for several minutes. Eventually one flew away over the fields below, one landed on the moorland nearby and one disappeared into long grass at the far end of the field. Such encounters are not common, but when they happen they are all the more special for their rarity – had we been in a car, we’d have whizzed past so fast we’d never have even seen the first curlew; walking, we’d probably have disturbed them with our movement before we got close.
Cycling, however, is the perfect way to experience the countryside: fast enough to cover a good distance over the ground, yet slow enough to really enjoy the sights, sounds and (mostly!) the smells. From the pungent aroma of wild garlic, the swathes of bluebells that carpet the floor of many woodlands in spring, the haunting cry of the curlew or joyful tweet of the skylark, to the purple blush of vetch in summer or flowering moorland heather in early autumn: on a bicycle the variety of the landscape can be appreciated in both detail and grander scale.
The Peak District needs no introduction to many – it has a string of firsts and mosts in England and the UK to its credit. It was the first National Park to be created in 1959; it’s the most central National Park and the nearest wild outdoor space to the largest percentage of the population. Its ‘Wonders’ were first eulogised by William Camden in the 16th century in Britannia (the first topographical and historical survey of Britain) and it is now one of the most popular National Parks in the UK.
While the honeypots of Castleton, Bakewell and Dovedale can get very busy at the height of summer, they can soon be left behind on the quiet lanes and tracks that criss-cross this wonderfully varied region. This guidebook aims to introduce the reader to some of these wonderful routes, covering between 15km (10 miles) and 65km (40 miles) in a day and leading up to a finale of the multi-day Tour de Peak District – a five-day route running roughly around the edge of this fantastic region and within the grasp of anyone of average fitness.
Typical limestone scenery in the White Peak (Cheedale, near Route 11)
Geology
The Peak District was once a shallow tropical sea, and had you been riding 350 million years ago you would have been close to the Equator and completely underwater (perhaps that’ll be more believable to those visiting on a dull wet day!). Fringed by coral reefs and sea lilies (crinoids) with shellfish swimming around, the calcium carbonate of their remains went on to form limestone.
Later on (325–300 million years ago) the tropical sea slowly drained away when a huge river delta to the north advanced slowly southwards. This river delta dropped first mud, then coarser layers of sand and grits, today known as gritstone.
These two types of rock – limestone and gritstone – are the main constituents of the Peak District. The differences in colour and the distinctive separation of the two types of rock – roughly gritstone to the northern, western and eastern fringes, and limestone in the central and southern areas – led to the popular names of ‘White Peak’ and ‘Dark Peak’ for the southern limestone and northern gritstone regions respectively. Gritstone is sometimes also called ‘millstone grit’ due its long-standing use for millstones.
Abandoned millstones at Lawrencefield (near Route 16) – a common use for gritstone, hence its alternative name ‘millstone grit’
There is also a third, lesser known type of rock: an area of shale, formed from the early mud layers deposited by the encroaching river delta. This is often exposed on the boundary between the older limestone and more recent gritstone – the ‘shivering mountain’ of Mam Tor (Route 17) is a good example of this intermediate layer.
More recently (geologically speaking) the region was lifted and folded to form a gentle dome. Overlying deposits of coal were eroded, followed by some of the gritstone and shales, revealing the weaker limestone beneath the higher parts of the region. Being weaker, this limestone has eroded more quickly, leaving behind gritstone edges such as Froggatt, Stanage (Route 16) and Windgather Rocks (Route 18).
Wildlife
There is a surprising variety of animals to be seen in Derbyshire and the Peak District. Aside from the ubiquitous Derbyshire sheep, llamas and alpacas are farmed at many locations across the region, and there are even a few ostrich farms. Wilder creatures such as deer, foxes and rabbits are all frequently seen, but quiet footsteps can also reward you with glimpses of startled stoats and even adders.
Other less common sightings are of mountain hares and red-neck wallabies. The original group of wallabies escaped into the wild from a private zoo near the Roaches (Routes 15, 20 and TdPD) in the late 1940s. Their descendants were thought to have become extinct around 2000, but recent sightings in the Roaches and Buxton areas suggest otherwise. At least one yak also escaped at the same time; it was last seen on the moorlands in 1951, so yaks are unlikely to be part of Peak District wildlife these days – but like Scottish wildcats, you never know!
Near water or hay meadows, dragonflies and all sorts of butterflies are frequently sighted. More rarely, water voles can sometimes be seen beside streams, and the strange sucker-mouthed river lamphrey exist in our waterways (although these are usually only sighted by experts).
Any cyclist interested in birdlife will find the Peak District a fantastic location, with a wide abundance of species, from the tiny goldcrest, the redstart and the brightly coloured siskin to curlews, buzzards and geese. Kestrels are frequently seen hovering over fields and moorlands, waiting to pounce on unsuspecting small mammals. Grouse are a common sight and sound on the moorlands, but more common still is the pleasant warble of the skylark, high above the ground; lower down, the weaving acrobatics of swallows also provide entertainment.
The bright yellow siskin can frequently be seen near the River Derwent; Finches, like this chaffinch, are a common sight
In the vales and dales, dippers are often seen bobbing alongside limestone streams. Ducklings, stonechats (named for their distinctive call which sounds like small stones knocking together) and finches of all descriptions are a common sight, especially in early to mid-summer, and the lucky viewer may get to see a kingfisher along the banks of the River Derwent. On the reservoirs and other larger bodies of water, goshawks often hover high above honking geese on Ladybower (Route 1), while osprey in the migratory season and lapwings in winter grace Carsington Water (Route 4).
Plants and flowers
While snowdrops are often the first to flower, it’s usually March before more wild flowers are in evidence, with daffodils being among the first (Route 19 has a surprisingly good display up the hill to Wessenden Moor). Soon after that, bluebells form carpets of blue for a few brief spring weeks (Grenoside woods, just north of Sheffield, is a good place to see these), and wild garlic often goes rampant, creating pungent swathes of white. (Both bluebells and wild garlic prefer limestone woodlands.)
Derbyshire bluebells
Come late spring/early summer, many fields explode into flower as hay meadows take advantage of increasing sunshine and one of the Peak District’s many rare species – the early purple orchid – comes into flower. A short detour into one of the many limestone dales will be rewarded with a view of this small purple flower: Monks Dale (near Route 11) is especially renowned for them. Meanwhile hawthorn trees create a profusion of white-flowered hedges.
Later on, the verges of many country lanes gain an infusion of pink (from rosebay willowherb, foxgloves, campion), blue-purple (vetch, cranesbill and harebells – especially towards Staffordshire/Cheshire), white (cow parsley and daisies of all sizes) or yellow (from humble dandelions and buttercups to poisonous ragwort). Many of the rough upland moorlands also turn shimmering white with cotton grass and the purple blush of moorland heather turning the harsh upland landscape into a much softer and more colourful scene needs no introduction to anyone who has seen tourist brochure images of the Peak District: this is best seen in late July to early September.
From August onwards, purple-stained fingers and lips give away those who have been enjoying the deliciously ripe wild bilberries (moorlands) and brambles (lower-lying lands); but nettles, brambles, bracken and butterbur (huge rhubarb-like leaves lining limestone dales) threaten to take over any path not frequently ridden.
Autumn then brings beautiful leafy shades of red, yellow and brown – especially on beech and chestnut trees, whose nuts are now ripe and falling before winter claims a harsh quietness in the floral world and the cycle starts once again in January.
History
Cyclists would be forgiven for thinking the Peak District was named for its abundance of hilly routes, but in fact this has nothing to do with topography, and everything to do with an ancient tribe called the Paec. These Paec-saetna were Anglo-Saxons from further south, who moved up the Dove and Derwent valleys and settled in what became known as the Peak District from roughly AD400. Over time they became a distinctly separate tribe from their southern, lowland cousins and the term Paec-saetna (or Pec-saetan) was used to distinguish them from other Dark-Age inhabitants of Mercia. (At this time England was divided into three kingdoms: Mercia formed the middle kingdom between Northumberland and Wessex.) The regional name of ‘Peak District’ is thought to come directly from this ancient ‘Paec’ tribe.
Going back much further in time, Creswell Crags is the most northerly site known to have been inhabited before the last glaciation: the site offers signs that nomadic hunter-gatherers reached the Peak District between 45,000 and 10,000BC.
More recently, many of the fringes of the Peak District were hotbeds of industrial revolution – with Richard Arkwright’s Mills giving the Derwent Valley UNESCO World Heritage status, and the Platt brothers of Saddleworth’s cotton-spinning technology a less well known but highly important part of the industrial history of the region. Railways blossomed, and industrial extraction of raw materials shaped the landscape as we see it today.
Art, culture and local festivities
The Peak District is a thriving region for artists and craft-workers of all disciplines, and their work can be found in studios, craft shops, galleries and performance venues across the region. However, Derbyshire and the Peak District are also home to a number of lesser-known traditions and cultural events. Well dressing is perhaps the best known of these, where a clay ‘tablet’ is pressed with flowers and other (usually natural) materials to make a picture. The dressing (sometimes locally also called a ‘well’), tends to be made by the locals of a village over the course of a week or so, and is then blessed and displayed near their water source. This custom is thought to have its origins in an ancient pagan ritual giving thanks for fresh water; the tradition is (almost) uniquely found in Derbyshire, although a recent revival is spreading into Staffordshire and other parts of the UK.
Well dressing at Carsington Visitor Centre (Route 4)
Other notable festivities include:
Shrovetide Football – an ancient town-wide game played over a ‘pitch’ of three miles on Shrove Tuesday and Ash Wednesday (Feb/Mar) in Ashbourne (Route 6)
Garland Day in Castleton – a celebration that originated in Charles I’s escape from the Roundhead army by hiding in an oak tree (29 May, Route 17)
Buxton Festival – a festival with its roots in new opera, that now encompasses literature, off-beat classical music and walking (July, Route 11)
Bakewell Agricultural Show (Aug, Routes 10 and 11)
Wirksworth Art and Architecture Trail Festival – an unusual but highly renowned art exhibition where many of the local houses become part of a town-wide art gallery for a weekend (Sept, Route 9)
Matlock Bath Illuminations – the inland town that believes it’s on the sea-front lights up the autumn (Sept/Oct, near start/end of Tour de Peak District, Route 21).
When to go
The best time to cycle in the Peak District is the summer. Days are longer, the weather is warmer (if not always sunnier!), and routes tend to be much drier and less muddy than in winter. On the downside, accommodation and transport are busier, more expensive, get booked up earlier and the honeypot centres such as Castleton and Bakewell can fill up – especially at the weekend. However, just a couple of kilometres away from these, peace and quiet can be found – even in midsummer. Many festivals, such as well dressings, take place in the summer.
Family of cyclists on the Manifold trail (Route 15)
Late spring and early autumn can also offer great cycling: the weather is often drier and sunnier (although also often windier) and the days are still reasonably long. Accommodation is cheaper and less busy, as are trains, planes and honeypot centres, but festivals are fewer.
Winter is not recommended for the novice cyclist; conditions can feel arctic at times, trails can be much rougher and days are short. However, for the experienced and prepared cyclist, winter offers a quiet, more adventurous angle to a cycling visit to the Peak District.
Getting there
Visitors to the UK from outside Europe are likely to arrive by air in London, Birmingham or Manchester. Regional airports such as East Midlands in the south of the region, Leeds/Bradford or Doncaster in the north tend to be served by low-cost and budget airlines, and will usually provide a better gateway for European visitors than London.
Trains run from London to Derby, Chesterfield or Sheffield, Stoke, Macclesfield and Manchester; from Manchester to Sheffield, Huddersfield, Leeds and Buxton; from Doncaster to Leeds or Sheffield; and from Leeds to Birmingham via Sheffield and Derby.
Hire cars are available from the usual corporate outlets – these days, price comparison sites such as www.moneysupermarket.com, www.holidayautos.co.uk, www.rentalcars.co.uk, www.skyscanner.net and www.lastminute.com are the way to search for a good deal.
Visas are needed by some foreign nationals – see www.gov.uk/visa-fees for more information. Short-term (6-month) tourist visas usually cost roughly £80–£100.
Crossing the high plateau of Abney and Shatton Moors (Route 17)
Getting around
In the first edition of this guidebook, railway stations were used as starting points wherever possible. However, due to a crackdown on non-rail user car parking at stations, some routes were left without any parking nearby, making access for everyone (however they get to the start) more problematic and a few route changes necessary (unfortunately less helpful to rail users).
If driving, a cycle rack on the back of the car, or an estate car (which can take bikes in the back) is useful for transporting bikes, especially if carrying more than one.
Trains
Readers who are accustomed to efficient and user-friendly facilities for taking cycles on trains in other countries should beware of Britain’s notoriously inconsistent and often user-hostile offerings! You may encounter the following issues:
there are several different train operating companies, who often have different and conflicting policies regarding cycles
a single rail route may be used by two or more companies with different policies
cycles are commonly limited to two per train
tandems are very rarely carried at all
cycles often need to be reserved in advance onto specific trains
internet and telephone services for general ticket sales are still frequently unable to perform cycle reservations – you may need to visit a station in person, with the ticket you bought online, to make a cycle reservation
some services, by contrast, are non-reservable, the spaces being filled on a first-come, first-served basis
a non-reservable first stage of your journey may jeopardise later connections requiring a reservation
even with a reservation, there is no guarantee the train service will take your bike on the day
oh, and by the way, don’t even think about taking a bike onto a bus!
However, having painted this grim picture, you will in practice find that long journeys can be successfully completed with a little patience, and that the strict company policies are implemented much more leniently by their staff on the ground.
www.cyclestreets.net is a useful website for planning otherwise fiddly urban routes from railway stations to the start (or middle) of routes where linking directions are not given specifically.
View over rolling dales near Royal Cottage (Route 15)
Parking
Visitors to the UK should be aware that parking in urban areas is strictly controlled. This can include:
time-limited free parking (on-street or designated car parks)
pay-and-display machine ticketed parking (on-street or designated car parks) at rates of up to £20 a day in urban areas
complete parking restrictions denoted by yellow lines or signs only.
In all cases, the precise governing rules may be discovered only by reading obscure signs, and these rules may change in a very short distance! Failing to follow the rules can be an expensive mistake, punished by fixed fines or extortionate clamping/tow-away operators.
However, it is often possible to find free on-street parking close to many routes – just ensure that your vehicle is parked with consideration for those who live nearby (and have to put up with visitors invading their world every summer) and doesn’t block any entranceway, driveway, road etc. Remember that farmers often need spontaneous access to apparently overgrown field entrances, and that agricultural vehicles may need a wide turning circle close to and opposite gates.
Car crime, usually meaning vehicle break-ins in pursuit of valuables, can be a minor problem, best avoided by following sound advice:
avoid leaving valuables (or simple evidence of a lot of luggage) on show
car crime is generally worse closer to larger towns
isolated locations can be risky – but remember to park considerately
‘safe’ daytime locations may become much worse overnight.
View along Ladybower Reservoir from Bridge End car park (Route 1)
Accommodation
It should be noted that although accommodation is widely available throughout the Peak District, many accommodation providers assume arrival by car, which isn’t always helpful for cyclists. More remote villages may have no or just one option for accommodation, but searching a few kilometres off-route can yield some pleasant options. See Appendix C for details.
Always check that any accommodation has a secure place for your cycle(s) overnight when booking and that there is somewhere near enough to eat/drink in the evening. Pubs with rooms often provide the most convenient option for both of these (they usually have a cellar or other secure storage place for bikes).
Single-base trip to the Peak District?
Good bases of a reasonable size from which to explore the Peak District are (roughly south to north):
Ashbourne (Routes 4, 6, 8, 9, 12, TdPD)
Wirksworth or Matlock (Routes 4, 6, 8, 9, TdPD)
Hartington (Routes 8, 9, 10, 12, 15)
Chesterfield (Routes 3, 7, 10, 11)
Bakewell (Routes 10, 11, 14, 16, 17)
Hathersage (Routes 1, 11, 14, 16, 17, TdPD)
Buxton (Routes 1, 10, 11, 14, 16, 17, 18, 20, TdPD)
Macclesfield, New Mills or Whaley Bridge (Routes 5, 11, 18, 20, TdPD)
Glossop (Routes 5, 11, 18, 19, TdPD)
Marsden, Meltham or Holmfirth (Routes 13, 19, TdPD)
Smaller villages with charm and more than one B&B or pub accommodation, plus a reasonable place to eat out in the evening (usually a pub), include: Monyash, Tideswell, Longnor, Litton, Bradwell (a quieter alternative to Castleton) and Edale.
Typical Peak District view of a small farm shed and tree in a hay meadow (Route 10)
Food and drink
As is to be expected of such a diverse region covering a number of counties, the Peak District has several distinct regional specialities, many of which are only found in certain parts of the area. Visitors to Bakewell should not miss the opportunity to make their own Bakewell Pudding at the Bakewell Pudding Shop (don’t make the mistake of calling it a Bakewell Tart – locally this is regarded as a highly inferior mass-produced product compared to the real thing).
Visitors to the west of the region may get the opportunity to sample the unique taste of Staffordshire oatcakes – particularly filled with hot melted cheese. To the north (and spreading increasingly south through the region), the Yorkshire Pudding often comes in giant form, filled with roast beef, sausages or lamb – the latter of which, one of Derbyshire’s best-known specialities, is on offer at many of the region’s pubs and restaurants. Lamb shank with rosemary washed down with a pint of real ale is a well-earned treat after a hard day’s cycling!
No food and drink section would be complete without mention of the vast array of real ales on offer in the region’s large selection of pubs and inns. As well as the region-wide offerings from the Marston’s Brewery (of which Pedigree is the most common), other regional treats include Stockport’s Robinson’s (Unicorn), mostly in the north-west of the region, and Theakston’s beers (XB, Best and Black Sheep) towards the north. More local micro- and not-so-micro-breweries such as Peak Ales (Bakewell/Chatsworth area), Thornbridge (Bakewell area) and Hartington’s Whim Brewery can also be sampled in many pubs. Even the YHA in Castleton has got in on the brewing scene with its own micro-brewery onsite!
Wine aficionados are not so well catered-for with local products, but Renishaw Hall (near Sheffield) held the distinction of being the most northerly vineyard between 1972 and 1986 and has produced award-winning wine since then. More recently, Holmfirth vineyard started up in 2009 and is winning awards. Fortunately, despite the general lack of locally grown offerings, restaurants and increasingly pubs are fairly clued up in their understanding of the best wines to import.
In this book, key places where refreshments can be found are noted in the information box at the start of each route. However, please note that places come and go over the lifetime of a guidebook, many pubs still shut between lunch and early evening (especially midweek), and not all places are open every day of the week. It’s worth checking current information online before relying on anything – especially for stop-offs in the middle of the afternoon, on a weekday or outside summer. A list of cafés and pubs currently known, with greater information on opening times, can be found at www.peakimages.co.uk under ‘Cycling’.
Money
You should be able to find a cashpoint (ATM) in most towns these days, but it is wise to carry sufficient cash for an overnight stay, a meal and a day’s supplies (say £50–£200 depending on your budget) as many villages do not have one and credit and debit cards are not universally accepted by smaller businesses.
Electronic payments such as Android and Apple Pay are still a novelty – only time will tell how well these become accepted in the future. Visa and Mastercard are widely accepted, although American Express often isn’t. Purchases of less than £5 or £10 may be refused if not in cash.
Accommodation is pricey in the UK and often costs in excess of £60 a room per night unless staying in shared (hostel) dorms.
Bike setup/Choice of bike
Riding along the Carsington Reservoir Dam Wall (Route 4)
The ideal bike for the rides in this book is a gravel bike (which is also known as an adventure road or adventure bike) – or any of its close variants such as a cyclocross bike, a hybrid (as long as it isn’t too heavy) or a lightweight 29er mountain bike with semi-slick tyres. These bikes provide the best compromise between fast and efficient progress over tarmac and the strength to go off-road on easy-to-hard trails and into the easier reaches of pure MTB territory. However, most bikes will be capable of the routes, other than lightweight road bikes. These, with care and a reasonably lightweight rider, may manage some of the gentler off-road and most of the trail sections, but riders will probably wish to take the ‘road detours’ mentioned in the text – especially for those on ultralight performance machines!
What is a ‘gravel bike’?
Not heard the term before? Don’t worry, it’s still fairly new. But it seems to be gaining popularity very quickly as it’s such a good idea.
In simple terms, a gravel bike is a hybrid bike which has wider (although moderately smooth) tyres and disk brakes like a mountain bike. But like a road bike, they tend to be relatively lightweight (especially when compared to many hybrid bikes) though still strong enough to venture off-road, and have drop-handlebars, which make longer distances (on and off-road) much more comfortable. (If you haven’t tried them and think they don’t sound comfortable, it’s well worth giving them a go. You may well be surprised!)
They also bear more than a passing resemblance to a cyclocross bike, but where the cyclocross bike’s gears and geometry are optimised for an hour’s race around a muddy field, gravel bikes are intended for all-day and multi-day use across a wide variety of terrains.
Gears
Many bikes with drop handlebars come far too highly geared for mere mortals on the average steep hill – let alone when overnight luggage weight is added to the equation! This being the case, you have two options. The traditional advice is that you don’t ride challenging routes until you’ve built up the necessary leg strength on flat and then gently increasing hills. However, this requires significant time and very frequent riding, which, sadly, can put people off before they’ve even started.
For many people, the best solution is to first of all change the rear cassette (set of cogs) for a mountain biking cassette. If this still doesn’t give low enough gears, change the front derailleur for a MTB triple. (Note that this is likely to require specialist help from a bike mechanic if you’re not a confident bike fettler, and may mean that 11-speed gears are no longer an option – but 30 useable speeds spread across three rings are far better than 22 across two rings that are too high!)
Alternatively (and this is my current preference), some gravel bikes come with the new SRAM 1x11 setup. This gives a rear range of 10–42 teeth with just a single front derailleur, which is lighter, easier to use and removes one derailleur from the trouble-making equation! I’ve swapped the standard 44-tooth front ring for a 38-tooth ring. This does limit my top-end pedalling speed, but means I rarely have to walk up a hill, even fully laden. And gravity means I can still reach speeds of 45mph on a decent descent!
Saddle height
Low saddle height may initially give confidence to a new rider, but it significantly reduces pedalling efficiency and leads to sore thighs and backs, particularly when riding uphill. It’s best to raise the saddle so that your leg is fractionally less than straight when sat on the saddle (with leg extended with the pedal at the bottom of its stroke). But if your knees end up locked-out, you’ve taken it too high!
Saddle
The best saddle is the most comfortable one! However, this is very hard to judge, especially when you’re new to cycling. As a general rule, men tend to need slightly narrower and longer saddles than women. For everyone, counter-intuitively, too much padding is as bad as too little as it soon deforms on longer rides and doesn’t give the required support.
Talking of support, it’s worth bearing in mind that the reason a saddle is called a saddle rather than a seat is that in normal riding your weight should ideally be spread equally through pedals, saddle and hands, with the core muscles preventing your body weight from resting too hard on the saddle.
The best way to find the right saddle is to try out a few and gradually hone down what your personal preferences are – ideally before committing to a multi-day route!
Looking back up Perry Dale (Route 14)
Cycle hire
Details of bike hire centres in the Peak District can be found at www.peakimages.co.uk (under ‘Cycling’ in the main menu). Proof of identity and a deposit may be required, and helmets may or may not be provided – check with the individual centre for more information. A pump and (perhaps) a limited toolkit (enough to change a punctured inner tube) should also be provided but you may need to ask for these. Prices vary according to spec of bike and location, and change over time.
Cycling technique
If you’re new to cycling, and particularly off-road riding, the following tips may help.
Off-road uphill
When riding uphill over rough ground, the most important factor tends to be maintaining just enough speed to overcome gravity on each rough rock or pebble. This can be fatiguing, especially if your gears or saddle are set too high or low respectively. Try and remain firmly sat on the saddle (weight here is an advantage against rear wheel spin, which is more of an issue if you stand up on the pedals), with legs spinning as fast as possible. As getting going again is much harder than keeping going on ground that you could have (just) kept moving on, try not to stop at all! If you do need to re-start, try using your second- or third-lowest gears, to avoid wheel spin.
Off-road downhill
There is no doubt that sharp brakes and wider grippy tyres add significantly to downhill confidence and comfort, but you can also help yourself with where you look and your position relative to the bike.
Always look where you want to go – not at the rock, rut or other obstacle you wish to avoid. The bike tends to magnetically follow your viewpoint, so staring fixedly at the thing you wish to avoid is almost guaranteed to result in hitting it, whereas staring at the line you wish to take regardless of obstacles to the side usually works well.
Stand up on the pedals with your knees bent flexibly, balancing your weight equally but fluidly between your feet. Move your centre of gravity backwards so that your bum is at the back of, or even partially behind the saddle, with your thighs loosely gripping the saddle for a bit of control. Keep your arms in a loose and flexible grip on the handlebars: the more you can allow your body’s position to compensate for the bike’s movement as it bounces underneath you, the more stable and relaxed the descent will feel (in other words, keeping your body stiff and rigid is a bad thing!) The bike knows where it’s going (well, mostly!) and if you let it get there you may well be surprised at what it (and you) can actually do!
Oh, and try to avoid turning and braking at the same time! Individually is best, but if you need to do both, try braking in a straight line then turning with the brakes mostly released and pedalling gently, then brake some more if needed.
On the High Peak Trail near Brundcliffe (Route 2)
On-road
Confidence comes with practice, but the following advice may help.
You should normally be cycling roughly 50–100cm from the kerb – ie ‘a drain and a bit more’ away. It may feel counter-intuitive, but this is much safer than being right in the gutter next to the kerb! Not only does this position keep you out of the worst of on-road debris and slippery drain covers, it also improves driver awareness of your existence.
You should not normally need to ‘claim the lane’ (where you make it impossible for other road users to pass) as this can antagonise drivers needlessly. However, if someone trying to pass would put you in danger (typically at busy junctions and in urban areas), this can be the safest position to ensure you have a clear route to complete your turn in. This is advanced technique, but worth looking up or getting tuition on if you’re not already aware of it.
When passing parked cars, be aware of the size of their doors, and allow sufficient room for one to open without knocking you off if they open as you pass.
Know who has right of way at junctions: in simple terms, if your movement will make you cross the straight-ahead path of someone else at a junction, then you normally have to give way to them. So if you’re exiting from a minor road, you have to give way to road users on the major road. If you’re turning right from a major road into a minor road, you have to give way to other users on the major road coming towards you, but you usually have right of way over someone turning out of the minor road. Again, if in doubt get some tuition – many county councils now offer a few hours’ free rider instruction by qualified cycling instructors.
Always be aware of other traffic around you, and look before making any changes to your direction or forward progress. That includes listening: your ears are surprisingly sensitive to direction and speed of other traffic. Earphones can be particularly dangerous for blocking out this sense of traffic.
Make sure you signal your intentions clearly and with plenty of time for other road users to see you and what you intend to do.
Always expect the unexpected!
What to wear
Newcomers to cycling would be forgiven for thinking head-to-toe Lycra in lurid racing team colours is essential, judging by the attire of some road cycling clubs. Fortunately this is not essential to your pedalling enjoyment, although there are certain items of clothing that will make your ride more comfortable and therefore more enjoyable. It is, however, fair to say that on multi-day tours the advantage of Lycra for speed of washing and overnight drying can’t be beaten. (Even if racing team adverts adorning it are entirely unnecessary!)
Jacket
The weather can change notoriously quickly in the Peak District, especially on higher ground, and a sunny day can very rapidly become windy and wet. A lightweight, breathable and quick-drying jacket that is both windproof and waterproof will make poor weather much more bearable. If it’s in a hi-visibility colour such as yellow or orange, with reflective patches, this can make you more visible on-road to other motorists in sudden downpours or poor light. Being breathable is important to allow sweat created going uphill (or into strong winds) to escape.
Cycling shorts
Cycling-specific (padded) shorts make the effort of cycling much more comfortable – particularly for those new to cycling or on longer routes. These only used to be available in close-fitting Lycra, but these days mountain biking versions in other fabrics can be much more stylish and loose-fitting. Many cyclists wouldn’t ride without them! Many also suggest that these should be worn ‘commando-style’ (without underwear); if this doesn’t appeal, then one secret to making underwear work under cycling shorts is to ensure it’s a wicking fabric (not cotton), side-seam free and with smooth edges.
Looking down towards the Harrop and Colne valleys from moorland above the Standedge cutting (Route 19; TdPD, Day 3)
Cycling gloves
These can make your arms more comfortable (especially gloves with gel-filled patches) – particularly on off-road sections, where vibrations through the handlebars are more intense – and will protect fingers to some extent if you’re unlucky enough to come off the bike.
Sunglasses/shades
These are extremely useful – even on a rainy day. As well as reducing glare from bright or low sun, they also keep flying insects, mud and driving rain out of the eyes. Some mountain-bikers wear ‘clear’ shades on every ride, just to keep the mud out of their eyes.
Breathable upper and lower layers
Enough for the time of year, little enough not to be overburdened – this is very much a personal preference, but a spare lightweight fleece or long-sleeved cycling top is often a good idea if setting out with minimal clothing. Rear pockets on cycling jerseys are surprisingly useful for stowing lightweight items that need to be accessed regularly, such as a route printout or packet of sweets.
Cycling shoes and SPD pedals
As you progress in your cycling and tackle longer and harder routes, you may find that clip-in (SPD) pedals become worthwhile. As well as holding the cyclist’s feet to the pedals on bouncy ground (which isn’t any benefit to a terrified novice but can be helpful to the experienced), these allow the rider to pull up with the feet on each revolution of the pedals as well as pushing down. This results in a more efficient use of energy – especially going uphill. To start with a pair of trainers with stiff soles will suffice (the stiffer the sole the better, as cycling a lot in flexible-soled shoes can lead to foot problems). Do make sure that any laces are securely tucked away from pedals though!
Adding SPD plates to specialist cycling shoes is best left until you’re sure it’s worth the outlay in money and the ‘getting used to’ time
What to take
Helmet
Although many hire centres will encourage you to wear a helmet, there is no requirement under UK law to wear one and this is entirely up to the individual rider to decide for themselves (although it is a particularly good idea for younger children, or if challenging your comfort zone on- or off-road).
Lock
A lock would be a good idea if you plan to leave your cycle unattended for longer periods of time, or in larger towns. Most indoor accommodation can usually provide somewhere reasonably secure to leave a cycle overnight (but do check before you book).
Toolkit
See Appendix D for more information.
Basic first aid kit
This should be just large enough to treat the basics if one of your party comes off their bike, without being overly heavy and cumbersome. For minor cuts, bruises and gravel rash, plenty of antiseptic wipes, antiseptic cream, plasters (various sizes), wound pads/dressings (5cm+ sizes), wound closure strips, small tweezers and painkillers should do the trick. Oh, and don’t forget some chocolate for the casualty to eat!
Water bottles
These (one or two, depending on route length) can be held in frame-mounted bottle cages.
Luggage
Although it is possible to carry day kit in a small rucksack, it is much more pleasant and comfortable to carry things in a handlebar bag, saddlebag, rear rack bag or panniers for larger loads. There is a growing trend for ‘bikepacking’ bags, which are smaller, more aerodynamic and lighter weight, but waterproofing is still rare and they are more awkward to access during the ride.
Handlebar bags with a clear top pocket to carry a map can be very useful. However, a combination of small waterproof pouch on the bar stem for a mobile phone (with electronic GPX route/map), plus a small barbag and/or a small ‘tri’ (triathlon) bag mounted above or below the top tube for snacks and other small items may now be a better option.
All luggage should be properly and securely fitted using appropriate brackets, with panniers also requiring a rear rack. Beware of wheels becoming snagged by loose straps or floppy panniers.
Maps
Hawthorn tree standing above limestone dales near Monsal Head (above Route 11)
Whereas paper maps used to be the norm for cycling, these days it’s hard to argue against electronic mapping on a smartphone – such as that provided by the Viewranger app (from app stores or www.viewranger.com/en-gb) or Memory Map (www.memory-map.co.uk). Both Ordnance Survey (OS) and OpenMapping (OpenCycleMap etc) are supported by Viewranger; just OS by Memory Map.
For those who still prefer paper maps, the OS 1:50,000 Landranger series normally offers the ideal weight-to-information compromise for cyclists (or if doing long-distance tours, the relevant pages taken from a 1:250,000 road atlas can be preferable). However, the Peak District is such a compact area, and the OS 1:25,000 Explorer series maps 1 and 24 cover so much of the region in just two maps, that these may well be the best choice for many routes.
The following Transpennine Trail maps may also be of use:
Map 1: West – Irish Sea to Yorkshire
Map 2: Central – Derbyshire and Yorkshire
Ordnance Survey maps can be found in good bookstores in larger towns or online, but often the relevant local sheets can be found in village stores. Transpennine Trail maps are best bought in advance over the internet.
HPT/TT on OS maps
Note that the High Peak Trail (HPT) and Tissington Trail (TT) are not marked as such on some maps. Instead they are both marked as Pennine Bridleway (PBW). HPT runs roughly south-east from Parsley Hay to Cromford; TT runs roughly south from Parsley Hay to Ashbourne.
Waymarking and access
Waymarking signs
Many of the routes in this book make use of Sustrans’ National Cycle Network routes (denoted as NCN68 etc). These are often waymarked via sticky signs on lampposts and other street furniture. Some waymarkers, however, are still the traditional metal signpost; in town centres it is important to reserve judgment, as they don’t always remain pointing in the correct direction!
Sustrans metal NCN waymarker sign
Cyclists have a right of way on bridleways, restricted byways (no motorised vehicles) and byways (all vehicles also allowed). They may also have rights on routes specially designated as cycleways or cyclepaths. They do not have a ‘right’ of way anywhere else. Concessionary bridleways allow cyclists, but (like concessionary footpaths) confer no specific ‘right’ of passage, and the concession can legally be withdrawn at any time by the landowner; it’s rare that concessionary footpaths also allow cyclists, but not totally unknown – signs should make this obvious.
Bridleways are usually marked with a blue arrow; byways with a ‘byway’ sign, or sometimes a red arrow; footpaths are usually marked with a yellow arrow. A yellow arrow is usually, but not always, an indication that cyclists may not ride. Concessionary paths (bridleways and footpaths) are often marked with a white arrow.
The situation with cycles on footpaths remains rather unclear at the current time. Legally you may not ride on a footpath, yet some newer cycleways use footpaths (and are marked as footpaths too!) and many urban footpaths have become shared pedestrian/cyclist routes. In practice, if there is a sign that indicates cycles are allowed, then you should be OK. With other paths (such as the linking track across from the top of Dirtlow Rake to the country lane), where the rights are either unclear, lost in time or in the process of change, they might be commonly used by cycles, and cyclists are not usually seen as a problem by the landowner, and are tacitly or even (rarely!) enthusiastically encouraged. However, you should always approach such areas – which are marked in the route descriptions – with caution, and if challenged be prepared to dismount or deviate.
Pushing a bike on a footpath is another contested issue. There is no law prohibiting the pushing of a bike on a footpath, and occasionally this is the best alternative to a busy main road or ‘broken link’. The Ramblers Association claims that ‘a bike is not a natural accompaniment’ (on a footpath), and you may hear Rights of Way officers echoing this, but CyclingUK (formerly the CTC – Cyclist’s Touring Club) maintains that this claim has been made only in a Scottish, not English, legal case – and even then was only a comment, not a legal ruling. However, common sense must also apply – you should not try to push a bike over a narrow single-file footpath where this would clearly cause inconvenience to walkers, and no route in this book will suggest otherwise.
Signpost marking the Thornhill Trail (Route 1a)
Road names in brackets
Sadly, not all road names are signed on the ground. Where a road name appears in brackets in the route description, this is the name of the road as found on a map (eg Google maps) rather than a sign that is visible as you pass by.
Recent developments
Since 2000, councils have all been required to develop and implement rights of way improvement plans, with the result that cyclists are gaining greater access rights to trails and bridleways. Future potential developments include the long-awaited White Peak Loop (whose large gaps have been partially infilled, and which is now described as far as possible at the time of publication in Route 11) and completion of the Matlock to Rowsley cyclepath.
THE CANAL AND RIVER TRUST TOWPATH CODE
Since the publication of the first edition of this guidebook, many waterway towpaths have become the responsibility of the Canal and River Trust, who generally allow cyclists to use towpaths in accordance with their access code:
1. Share the space – towpaths are popular places to be enjoyed by everyone. Please be mindful of others, keep dogs under control, and clean up after them.
(‘Duck lanes’ occasionally appear to remind all users of narrow sections, but aren’t marked everywhere it’s narrow.)
2. Drop your pace – pedestrians have priority on our towpaths so cyclists need to be ready to slow down; if you’re in a hurry, consider using an alternative route for your journey.
Some sections are very narrow, with limited visibility – in particular where the towpath goes under bridges, and some get very busy, especially on sunny summer weekends and school holidays. There are also extra hazards such as mooring bollards (which aren’t always easy to see) and mooring lines, fishermen’s rods, and the ever-dreaded doggy trip-wire). Also, it’s polite to slow down around pedestrians and say thanks to them for moving out of your way – just as we expect vehicles to do to us when on the roads!
3. It’s a special place – our waterways are living history, with boats, working locks and low bridges so please give way to waterway users and be extra careful where visibility is limited.
On the track near Harden Moss (TdPD, Day 2)
Emergencies and first aid
In a life-threatening emergency:
first priority: ensure that you and the casualty are not in further danger
next: call for help (999 or 112)
then: try and give whatever first aid is practical.
It is definitely a life-threatening emergency if the casualty is not breathing or is unconscious/unresponsive to their name.
The number for the emergency services is 999, although 112, which is commonly used across Europe, will also get you through. This will put you through to a combined control centre for ambulance, police and fire brigade services. They will find it easier and quicker to get to the casualty if you can give them a good indication of whereabouts you are – a GPS location reading or a grid reference (in the OS maps format such as SK 123 456) can be very handy for this – and what the problem is (for example: fallen off bike, hit head on kerb and is unconscious).
If you suspect the casualty has back or neck injuries, do not move them unless their life is seriously threatened if they remain where they are: any movement may worsen the risk of paralysis. If you have no choice but to move them, it’s important to support their head (particularly) and back (nearly as important) fully while moving them – this may well require the help of more than one additional person.
If the emergency is serious but not life-threatening, call the NHS non-emergency number: 111.
For minor injuries the first aid kit (you did bring it, didn’t you?) will come in handy. If there’s gravel or any other object embedded in a cut that’s bleeding significantly, do not press on the foreign body directly, but press at the sides of the wound to try and stem the bleeding. Then pile wound dressing on top of wound dressing with a bandage until blood flow from the wound becomes minimal, and seek help.
Using this guide
A summary of route grade, length, ascent and types of terrain can be found in Appendix A to help with route choice and planning. This is repeated on a route-by-route basis in the information boxes at the start of each route with additional information on start/finish points, and how suitable the route is for road bikes (with an overview of any diversions necessary). The information boxes also include brief information on nearby parking facilities, cycle hire, refreshment opportunities and any specific warnings for that route. However, please be aware that refreshment providers come and go and may have limited opening hours – especially pubs during midweek afternoons: it is worth checking online before relying on any particular refreshment stop (see Food and Drink for a weblink to an online list).
On the Monsal Trail near Millersdale (Route 11)
What sort of routes?
The routes in this book are intended for anyone of average fitness or better. They fall between gentle former railway trails at the easiest end to easy technical mountain-biking/A-road moorland riding at the hardest end – using many of the region’s great variety of trails available to the cyclist. There are narrow, winding and often hilly country lanes, bridleways and byways that use former turnpikes and ancient jaggers’ (packhorse drovers’) paths over rougher terrain.
Riders will need traffic sense, as the routes do use the open road, but most of the routes are suitable for families with older children who have mastered the rules of the road sufficiently to be safe in traffic. The routes are progressive in difficulty: the earlier routes in the book are more suited to those newer to riding (including older children who have passed Bikeability Level 2 then gained reasonable confidence and awareness on the road). The later ones are more suited to those who’ve gained good experience in a variety of conditions on- and off-road, sometimes in heavier traffic or on main roads.
Of course, there are occasions where the only route available to cyclists is on a busy A-road or crosses a short hard-to-ride section of technical off-road trail. In these instances the balance of quality of route, surrounding landscape, width and nature of road and length of difficult sections are all taken into consideration as to whether the route justifies it. In most cases it doesn’t, but for a rare few (for example Saddleworth Moor, or the descent from Lees Hill to Tintwistle) the compromise is worthwhile. Every effort has been made to ensure that A-road sections are downhill, keeping time on them to an absolute minimum, and that unavoidable technical off-road sections are not intolerably long.
Trail grading
The routes have been subjectively graded Easy, Moderate and Hard. However, everyone has different opinions about what makes a route hard: is it the length of the route, or the steepness of any uphills? Perhaps it’s the combined number of hills in a route, or the terrain underwheel? Perhaps it’s the inclusion of an A-road – whatever its nature – or the steepness of any descents? For the purpose of this guidebook I have adopted the following approach:
Easy routes are no more than 25km (15 miles) long, are not overly steep, have a maximum cumulative ascent of 400m and avoid using A-roads (although they may have to cross them). They should be suitable for someone who hasn’t previously ridden off-road, and will use trail-type surfaces as much as possible.
Moderate routes range from 18 to 50km (11 to 30 miles), have steeper (but not extremely steep) ascents and more hills in general (ideally less than 1000m total ascent over the route). They may have steep downhills, tackle busier roads where needed to join up parts of a good circular route, and will encounter rougher terrain – expect some mud, loose stones, lumpy but solid surfaces or sandy patches. These rough sections will never last too long, and (in dry conditions!) should be rideable by someone with limited experience of rougher surfaces than rail-trails.
Hard routes tend to be from 35 to 60km (23 to 36 miles) and rarely have less than 1000m of ascent over the route as a whole. (The Peak District is a hilly place!) Where mention is made of awkward or challenging sections, many riders may need to dismount and walk for a short distance, but although these may edge towards mountain biking in places (with the exception of TdPD Day 3), they are never unrelenting technical off-road challenges. They may contain short sections that some cyclists will consider unrideable and may involve substantial amounts of off-road riding (eg 25 or 30%).
One of the types of terrain a reader will encounter on a Hard route (Route 16)
Tour de Peak District: this route deserves a category of its own as riders should not underestimate the cumulative effect of fatigue on a multi-day route if they have never attempted one before, particularly where there is a considerable amount of off-road riding and/or hilly terrain (Days 2 and 3). It is recommended that riders have ridden the equivalent of all the moderate and hard routes in the guidebook before attempting such a route. At the other end of the scale, keen and experienced riders will probably wish to compress this route into a three- or four-day challenge.
A NOTE ON TERRAIN
Bear in mind that the surface of off-road trails can change surprisingly quickly – from newly resurfaced smooth trail to deeply eroded and unrideable. All off-road trails are described in dry (summer) conditions; outside dry weather they may be significantly tougher, or unrideable. In wet conditions, remember that braking distances are considerably extended on all surfaces and that potholes fill quickly into small ponds on off-road routes in the Peak!
Road bikes
Can the routes in this book be ridden on a road bike?
From Route 6 onwards (moderate and above) all route descriptions give on-road detours to avoid the more awkward off-road sections, although they do use Sustrans-like trails to avoid busier roads where the option exists. Unfortunately, a lack of viable easy-grade detours mean the ‘Easy’ routes are rather less performance road-bike friendly. However, both they and some later off-road sections may still be viable on a sturdier road bike, or if you don't mind walking short sections. Lighter riders will get away with more than heavier riders. Use the percentages, and any extra information given in the text, to judge whether you will be committing yourself to a long walk before you set out.
Conventions and abbreviations
Major and minor roads
These follow Bikeability conventions, so a major road is not a main road or an A-road but simply the one with right of way over the minor road at a junction. Following on from this, a major crossroads will be one where you have to give way to a major road, and a minor crossroads will be one where you have right of way (although it’s always worth checking that no vehicles are about to emerge!).
Level of detail and side-turns
As the routes become progressively longer, the detail decreases. Cyclists riding the more challenging routes should have less need to know in advance about A-bars (access-restricting gates designed to keep motorised vehicles out but allow wheelchairs through: their name comes from the shape of the obstruction they create), gates, track crossings, minor junctions etc, and omitting these makes the description significantly clearer, for most.
Likewise, for reasons of space and clarity, most side-turns are ignored in route descriptions unless they are particularly important to navigation. More information is given on these in the first couple of routes than elsewhere, but if no indication is given at a junction, then it is expected that you will stay on the major road and not turn off it. Of course, roads do occasionally change their priorities – especially on quiet country lanes. If in doubt, then the map is a helpful guide – as are place names that each road may be signposted to.
Gates
These are only mentioned where they are navigationally important. Over the lifetime of a guidebook, new gates can come and old gates go!
Sustrans National Cycle Network routes
These are abbreviated to, for example, NCN68 for National Cycle Route 68 or NCN54 for National Cycle Route 54. (This has been brought into line with commonly used standards since the first edition.)
Former railway lines
Many of these are now used as cycle trails, and major waymarked cycle routes are abbreviated in many places throughout the guidebook:
HPT – High Peak Trail
TT – Tissington Trail
TPT – Transpennine Trail
MW – Middlewood Way
TdPD – Tour de Peak District
TVW – Tame Valley Way
WPL – White Peak Loop
PBW – Pennine Bridleway
‘To’ or ‘towards’ a place
Where a signpost or route description says ‘to’ a place, the route directly goes there without further directions. However, if ‘towards’ is used, the place is either off-route or yet to be reached with further directions.
Key waypoints
Place names are shown in bold in the descriptions if they are identifiable on the route maps provided and are close to the route, giving you an ‘at-a-glance’ checklist of key waypoints on the route.
View over Peak District hills at dusk, near Hathersage (TdPD Day 1)
