Читать книгу Architectural Plants - Christine Shaw - Страница 14
ОглавлениеFerns are delightful additions to any garden. They do not flower, but their wide variety of leaf shape and their different shades of green bring something special to planting schemes.
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The foliage of Pteris cretica consists of delicate evergreen ribbons.
There are hundreds of different ferns generally offered for sale, but this chapter concentrates on the few that could be described as the most architectural, either because of their size and shape or because they are evergreen. All ferns have a certain presence and charm, but those giving year-round colour obviously have more benefit in the garden.
There are several categories of evergreen fern discussed in these pages. There are Tree Ferns such as Dicksonia antarctica and Dicksonia squarrosa, which have such a stately and imposing shape that they could easily be planted as single special specimens in any garden. Then there are the smaller ferns such as Pteris cretica and Blechnum spicant, which look especially effective in large numbers. There are also large, low-growing ferns such as Blechnum chilense and Polystichum munitum, which look fine planted singly in smaller gardens but would look very impressive in groups if you happen to have the luxury of larger grounds.
Ferns enjoy moist, shady conditions in corners of the garden where there is little wind and high humidity. They love being on sloping ground, where the water can drain away immediately without collecting around the roots. Although they need plenty of moisture, boggy places are not suitable.
Ferns are easy to maintain. They need little extra food, and pests and diseases are rare if the cultivation notes are followed. This is just as well because the foliage of ferns is often too delicate to cope with being sprayed with chemicals. If anything is found nibbling on ferns, it is better to remove the problem manually, as insecticides often cause more damage than the bugs.
A whole new language has been constructed around ferns, and some of the terms deserve explanation. The leaves are referred to as fronds. The new season’s growth is tightly coiled up before gradually straightening out as it matures, and its curly stage is rather imaginatively referred to as a crozier (think of the large metal crooks, or staffs, brandished by bishops when they are in full regalia). Ferns don’t have flowers or seeds or seed pods. They are propagated from spores, which is powdery dust contained in little sacs called sori. There are also fern societies to join if you’re really keen, and these are referred to as pteridological societies. Unfortunately, I get the word pteridological mixed up with pterodactyl, which conjures up all sorts of mental images of the people attending their annual meetings.
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Dicksonia antarctica adds a loud presence to any fernery.
Some fern collectors take their hobby as seriously as stamp collectors, delighting in obtaining as many different types of fern as possible. This is fine for a botanic collection, but no use at all for the amateur gardener or landscapes Ferns look so much better if planted out in larger numbers. The effect is far more dramatic if ten of the same fern are planted together, rather than one each of ten different species.
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Polystichum munitum is tough enough for the coldest of gardens.
Most ferns prefer to be planted in areas of the garden where many other plants refuse to grow, which makes them useful as well as desirable.
This group of plants adores soil containing lots of peat. The light texture suits their root systems admirably. With the natural sources of peat being stripped away, it seems irresponsible recommending such material. But, having tried many peat substitutes, there is nothing as good as the real stuff – not yet, anyway. Hopefully, this is something the compost industry is working towards. It would be wonderful to find something that is as cheap and pleasant to use, produces excellent results and doesn’t have to be shipped from halfway around the globe using fuel-hungry means of transport.
The propagation of ferns is a tricky subject. Some ferns such as Asplenium scolopendrium conveniently form clumps as they mature. These can usually be divided up to obtain extra plants. Others such as Woodwardia radicans form baby ferns on the upper surface of mature fronds. These fronds can be pegged down over compost until the babies have formed their own root system. They can then be separated and grown on singly. The main method of fern production, though, is by using spores. These spores are stored on the backs of mature fronds usually in formal lines. The procedure of gathering spores, which are the size of tiny dust particles, sterilizing every piece of equipment you use, fiddling around with seed trays, using polythene covers to retain humidity, watching green slimy substances form, followed by microscopic plants, which have to be separated from all the sludge that has formed, is all too much for most gardeners, who are sensible enough to leave it to the experts. Apart from the Tree Ferns, most other types of fern are not expensive enough to warrant such a chore.
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Woodwardia radicans has huge jungly fronds up to 1.8m (6ft) long.
Asplenium scolopendrium
Hart’s Tongue Fern
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Asplenium scolopendrium is a rather un-ferny-looking fern with entire fronds instead of the usual filigree style of foliage associated with ferns.
The fronds of Asplenium scolopendrium are fresh apple-green with a waxy surface and wavy edges. The undersides are often well covered with thick rows of chocolate-coloured sori (spore cases). It is not a large fern, reaching a maximum height and width of only around 6ocm (2ft). In spacious gardens it can be planted in groups for more impact, although it is quite noticeable as a single specimen.
This evergreen fern is extremely tough and can cope with very low temperatures and a wide range of conditions that many other ferns would not tolerate. Large amounts of lime or chalk in the soil cause no problems at all. It also copes with more sun and less water than would normally be expected from a fern. I have a small plant that has grown from a spore blown by the wind into a tiny space between a concrete path and the bottom of a terracotta pot. I’m not sure what it lives on, and its size is certainly somewhat diminished, but it has lived there quite happily for three years.
Although this fern is tolerant of less than perfect conditions, much better results will be achieved with a light, alkaline soil, frequent watering and a shady, well-drained planting position. Ferns must be planted into the ground very gently, as the roots hate to grow through soil that has been heavily compacted. Fern roots are idle things that enjoy an easy journey.
Feeding is usually unnecessary unless the soil is really poor. A generous helping of leaf mould would help, but this isn’t always easy to obtain. Alternatively, add a small amount of really well-rotted crumbly manure to the surrounding area, or add some liquid seaweed food to a watering can and use this mix every six to eight weeks during spring and summer.
Propagation from spores is best left to the experts, but large clumps of this fern can often be divided quite successfully. The best time for this would be early spring, just before the new season’s growth commences. Pests and diseases are rarely a problem, especially with the straight form. There are lots of cultivars available, with fronds of varying widths and with different degrees of wavy edges. Some are quite acceptable, but they are generally less robust and less vigorous than the basic Asplenium scolopendrium.
Blechnum chilense
Seersucker Fern
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The surface of the fronds is rough to the touch, and puckered like seersucker, hence its common name.
A great beast of a fern, essential to all jungly and leafy planting schemes. Given the right conditions, it could easily reach a height and spread of more than 1.2m (4ft).
Ferns can be fussy plants, and Blechnum chilense is no exception. Shade is essential to keep the fronds a good colour. Although low temperatures can be coped with, milder climates are preferred. The most vital factor for achieving ferns of colossal proportions is a super-abundance of water. The largest specimens of this Chilean monster are nearly always growing on the edges of ponds or streams, where the roots have constant access to water. Waterlogging won’t be tolerated at all, though, so good drainage is important. Planting on a slope or bank in a high rainfall area out of the wind would be a perfect choice.
Soil should be light and crumbly, but using peat on its own won’t be enough to sustain Blechnum chilense. An ideal mix would be equal quantities of leaf mould, peat (or peat substitute) and loam. Leaf mould is a bit of a luxury and not always easy to acquire, but the search is worth the effort. All ferns are happiest planted directly into the ground, but if this is not possible, use a very large container and never let it dry out. Watering ferns is never an easy undertaking, as they need constant moisture without ever becoming too boggy.
When planting, firm the roots in very gently. Fern roots prefer their journey through the soil to be made as easy as possible. Humidity is appreciated, but try to avoid getting the fronds too wet in very cold weather, as this can cause them to blacken. Feeding is not usually required, but the addition of some very old, well-rotted crumbly manure to the surrounding area in spring would be beneficial, especially to poor soils. The only other maintenance to consider is the removal of any older fronds that have turned brown with age. Cut them off with secateurs to keep the plant looking green and healthy.
Propagation is again best left to the experts, but even skilled propagators have trouble with this one, as the spores must be really fresh to succeed. Pests and diseases aren’t usually a problem, although large green caterpillars occasionally feed on the fronds.
Blechnum spicant
Hard Fern or Deer Fern
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The leaf formation resembles the shape of a fish skeleton. This fern is a familiar sight in English woodlands.
The bright emerald-green fronds of this fully hardy, evegreen fern add a bit of cheer to a dark corner of the garden, especially in winter. They also have an attractive glossy sheen to them. Individual clumps can spread very slowly to cover eventually only about 6osq cm (2sq ft), and the maximum height is unlikely to be much more than 45cm (18in). Because of its relatively small stature, planting just one single specimen gives no effect at all to a garden. Blechnum spicant must be planted in much larger groups to give visually pleasing results. In decent-sized gardens, a whole bank or border planted up with just these ferns would look splendid. In smaller gardens, there is still usually enough room to accommodate generous groups of them. Anything less than five would, in my opinion, look rather miserly.
These ferns should never be removed from their natural habitat, tempting as this may be. Apart from the responsible conservationist attitude, they tend not to appreciate being hauled out of the ground and transplanted elsewhere. The chance of damaging their roots and harming the plant is quite high. Instead, always purchase them from a reputable and reliable nursery where they have been propagated professionally and grown on site. Propagating these ferns is quite tricky and is best left to the experts. If you enjoy a challenge, try growing them from freshly ripened spores removed from the parent plant in early autumn.
This fern is happiest in the shade, grown in moist peaty soil with a bit of leaf mould added. Although shade and moisture are preferred, this tough little fern can cope with drier conditions, and will even put up with some sunshine. Neutral to acid soil is necessary – chalk or lime in the soil will give very poor results.
If you can, give this plant a slightly sloping site, so that excess moisture can run away immediately. The planting area should never be allowed to dry out, but boggy conditions would be unsuitable. This is an exceptionally easy fern to grow, providing it has been planted correctly. No annual feeding is needed, and pests and diseases rarely cause problems. The only annual maintenance is removing any older brown fronds. Cut them off as far into the plant as possible with secateurs.
Dicksonia antarctica
Tasmanian Tree Fern
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Dicksonia antarctica is everybody’s favourite tree fern.
Tree ferns are fabulous plants to own. Few plants are more exotic than this leafy giant. A thick, fibrous chocolate-brown trunk is topped with huge deeply cut fronds 2.2m (7ft) long. Dicksonia antarctica starts to form a trunk after five years, which then grows at only 30cm (1ft) every ten years, so buying a baby plant will need a lot of time and patience to see it develop into something spectacular. A plant this slow would be fine in a container for several years as long as the compost is kept moist at all times. Container-grown specimens look wonderful in a shady conservatory.
There are lots of mature plants offered for sale at nurseries and garden centres, and many thousands of Dicksonia antarctica are imported from forest clearance sites in Tasmania and Australia. Please buy from a reputable nursery to ensure that these plants are not illegal imports. If there is any doubt at all as to their origin, leave them where they are and buy from somewhere else.
This fern is extremely fussy in its requirements – it is almost like buying a pet. Shade is essential for the very best results. A sheltered position is also important, not only shelter from the wind but also from anyone brushing past it. Humidity is necessary too – ideally, the trunk should be sprayed twice daily during the hot summer months.
The best soil is peat, or peat substitute, mixed with leaf mould and silver sand for drainage. This is usually not difficult to organize if the fern is being planted into a container, but it is a little unrealistic for most gardens. It will, in fact, grow in any light soil that holds some moisture without ever being boggy. Enrich it annually with either leaf mould or kitchen waste from the compost heap.
Watering should be done regularly to keep the soil just about moist. The occasional application of a balanced dilute feed poured into the top of the trunk can have a remarkable effect on how many new fronds are produced – twice the normal number can be expected. Feed weekly from mid-spring until mid-summer.
The fronds should remain evergreen for several years, but if ideal conditions cannot be met, they are quite likely to go brown. If this happens, cut them off at their base and try to treat next year’s fronds with a little more care. Propagation is difficult and best left to a specialist fern propagator. Pests and diseases are rarely a problem.
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A bird’s-eye view of a tree fern is an excellent way of appreciating the foliage.
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In winter, a handful of straw pushed into the crown keeps the frost away from the most delicate part of the plant.
These plants are reliably hardy only in mild inner city gardens or those near the coast. In colder gardens, some winter protection will be needed. Tucking a handful of straw or fleece into the top of the trunk will be enough to protect next year’s new fronds (see photograph, right). Push the straw down gently into the hollow bit where new fronds emerge. It should stay there without being fastened down.
The existing year’s fronds can be allowed to frost and turn brown, and then be cut off at their base. A much better plan, however, would be to protect the fronds by wrapping them in horticultural fleece for the winter. Having several years’ worth of fronds on a tree fern makes it even more lush and splendid to look at.
To wrap Dicksonia antartica for winter, all you need is a ball of hessian string, a roll of horticultural fleece and, unless you are around 2m (6½ft)tall, a stepladder. Instructions for winter wrapping, together with some useful tips, are given on the opposite page.
1. Scoop the fronds up vertically and tie them together firmly with hessian string.
2. Tie one end of the roll of horticultural fleece to a leaf stem to act as a starting point.
3. Wrap the fleece around all the foliage several times.
4. Once you have wrapped the fern completely, fold some of the fleece over the top of the fern to protect the leaf tips, and secure it in place with string. Tie string around the fern in several more places to secure the rest of the fleece.
5. This photograph shows the finished ensemble.
Some points to remember
• Tie the string firmly but not too tightly to allow for its easy removal during the winter if a warm spell of weather approaches. The fronds would also appreciate a bit of fresh air now and again.
• Instead of using horticultural fleece, after tying up the fronds with string, stack straw bales around the whole plant instead. This looks more aesthetically pleasing than fleece, although obtaining straw bales isn’t always practical if you live in a large town or city.
• If you use straw bales, remove them the minute the weather warms up. If they are left on for more than a couple of months at a time, the heat generated by the straw can cook the fronds, turning them into a mushy mess, which rather defeats the whole point of wrapping them up in the first place.
• If your tree fern is being grown in a container and not in the ground, the roots will need a bit of protection from the frost too. Either move both the plant and its pot into a shady porch or conservatory for the winter, or wrap it all up as described in the steps and, in addition, wrap a large thick blanket around the pot. Rolls of bubble wrap could be used instead, if preferred. This will keep everything – roots, fronds and next year’s new growth – cosy for the winter.
Dicksonia squarrosa
New Zealand Tree Fern
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A beautiful tree fern with chocolate-brown veins across the back of the fronds.
A sumptuous-looking tree fern from New Zealand that is more delicate in appearance and less well known than the more familiar Dicksonia antarctica described on pages 71–73. The trunk is quite slim and of the very darkest chocolate-brown. The same colour is also found on the underside of each frond, running the length of the leaf veins and, unfortunately, hidden from view for most of the time. The fronds are large and spread out gracefully from the top of the trunk. These can easily be 1.5m (5ft) long.
Although home-grown tree ferns can be obtained as small specimens produced from spores, virtually all those sold commercially are imported from New Zealand. They usually arrive in huge quantities packed into containers and shipped across to retailers who are eager to get their hands on large, mature plants. Unfortunately, these fabulous plants are not as hardy and easy to grow as is often implied, and around 90 per cent of them end up dead, which is a sad end to something that has been growing happily for fifty or so years in its native country. Before buying a Dicksonia squarrosa, please spend some time thinking about its growing requirements to ensure that it has more than a sporting chance of survival.
A perfect soil mix would consist of peat (or peat substitute) with some leaf mould and silver sand mixed in, but most types of light, well-drained soil would be okay. Avoid very chalky soil, not because it particularly hates alkaline conditions, but because of this soil’s inability to retain enough moisture. A quiet, shady, humid position, sheltered from wind is essential. Leave enough space around it for the fronds to spread out fully without touching anything. Keep the soil just moist. Humidity is vital, not just for the leaves, but also for the trunk, which should be sprayed regularly in hot weather. This fern could be kept in a large pot for many years, but much better results would be gained from planting directly into the ground. Pour diluted liquid feed into the top of the trunk every month throughout the growing season.
Leave propagation to the experts. Pests and diseases do not usually cause problems. Unless your garden is very mild, winter protection will be necessary. Use exactly the same methods as described for Dicksonia antarctica.
Polystichum munitum
Western Sword Fern
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This evergreen fern is so hardy that it has even been seen growing in parts of Alaska, which sounds almost unbelievable.
Another huge fern that is evergreen and fully hardy. It grows in the traditional fern shape, resembling a massive shuttlecock bursting out of the ground. Long, leafy fronds can reach 90–120cm (3–4ft) if the growing conditions are perfect. The spread of each plant can also reach the same dimensions.
These massive ferns look wonderful if planted as giant groundcover beneath moisture-loving trees such as Eucalyptus aggregata or Eriobotrya japonica. The effect looks very natural, as it would in any jungly environment where the ground is usually totally concealed. The canopy of the trees would provide enough shade to keep any fern a good healthy colour.
A sloping site is preferred so that any rain can immediately drain away without collecting in puddles around the plant’s base. Waterlogging would quickly lead to rotting, but ample supplies of water are essential to keep this fern happy enough to reach its maximum size. A site on a shady riverbank or by a pond would also make a good planting position. This plant must be kept out of the wind, which is true of most ferns, but particularly of larger ones. Also, avoid planting where people might brush past the foliage, as this is not something that will improve its appearance.
Make sure the soil is light enough to enable the roots to penetrate easily. Peaty soil on its own is not enough to retain adequate supplies of moisture, and very light, poor soil should be enriched every spring. Either use large quantities of leaf mould or spread well-rotted, crumbly manure throughout the surrounding area.
If moisture is allowed to gather in the crown during the colder months, the fronds can become discoloured with fungal disease, which eventually leads to rotting. Spraying with fungicide should be avoided. Instead, chop the whole lot down to the base and let it start again. The following season, it will grow like mad and produce masses of new croziers. By the end of the season, its former glory will have been regained. This treatment can also be adopted if it has been allowed to dry out and the fronds have become tired and brown.
Propagation is best left to the experts. Apart from the fungal problems already mentioned, pests are not usually a problem.
Polystichum polyblepharum
Polly-polly
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The fronds of Polly-polly have a lovely glossy sheen to them.
A fern with such a ridiculous Latin name, I was tempted not to include it. But it is such a pretty plant and so popular that it couldn’t possibly be omitted. It is quite a small fern, growing to no more than 6ocm (2ft) in height and width. The fronds are dark green in colour and have a lovely sheen to the upper surface. Their glossy finish makes them very noticeable.
Forget about planting just one or two of these ferns – they must be planted in large swathes for maximum effect. Large groups of the same type of fern always look more natural. The effect is far from boring. In fact, it looks restful and serene.
This Japanese native fern enjoys the usual requirements expected of this group of plants. Light, crumbly soil with some leaf mould added to provide moisture retention and nutrients is ideal. A shady position is best, and shelter from strong drying winds is essential. It has no special requirements as to soil acidity, but avoid very chalky or sandy soils, as these tend to be too thin and well drained to satisfy such moisture-loving plants. Polystichum polyblepharum should never be allowed to dry out. It needs a constant supply of water that can be allowed to drain away almost immediately. Water collecting around the roots or crown of the plant can lead to rotting.
Annual feeding is not normally necessary, but very poor soils can be enriched with more leaf mould or some well-rotted manure that has reached the crumbly moisture-free stage. If just a few ferns are being added to a place in the garden that is already planted up, they will have to be happy with whatever soil is there. If whole new areas or borders are being planned, then it is better to enrich all the soil thoroughly before any planting begins. If the soil is heavy, then dig in lots of peat or peat substitute to help with the drainage and to lighten the soil texture. If the soil is poor or very light and sandy, digging in lots of extra loam will help retain moisture and provide nutrients. Finish off by digging in either small amounts of manure or heaps of leaf mould, which really is as valuable as gold dust from a fern’s point of view.
Propagation is by using the dreaded spore method. Pests and diseases are rarely a problem.
Polystichum setiferum
Soft Shield Fern
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The lovely arching shape of each frond gives the whole plant a very architectural quality almost unmatched in the fern world.
This European fern’s appeal in both looks and size creeps up slowly on unsuspecting gardeners. For the first couple of years, it is a perfectly satisfactory addition to any garden. It is a fine evergreen fern that is well suited to those damp and shady corners that can sometimes be a bit of a challenge.
By year number three, it starts to get much more attention during the daily promenade around the garden. With the arrival of year number four, it suddenly becomes one of the most beautiful plants in the garden. By this age, its spread is almost 90cm (3ft) across. Its massive fronds unfurl out of tightly rolled-up fluffy, white balls, which are attractive in their own right. Each frond is very finely cut into a delicate filigree pattern. It is usually during late spring in its fourth season that you suddenly wonder why you didn’t plant loads more.
There are masses of cultivars of this fern; some of the ‘Divisilobum’ and ‘Plumoso-divisilobum’ ones are particularly attractive with lots of soft, feathery fronds, which are excellent plants even when young. But for sheer bulk and splendour, the straight form remains a favourite. Although propagation of this fern is generally done using spores, some of the cultivars conveniently produce baby ferns along the surface of adult fronds.
When planting out Polystichum setiferum, make sure there is plenty of room around it to reach its mature size without being crowded. Ferns hate being transplanted and if too many have been placed closely together, plants may have to be thinned out and disposed of. They are unlikely to survive being replanted once their roots have been disturbed.
The usual fern requirements also apply to this species. Lots of moisture without waterlogging is essential. A quiet humid spot in the garden is also preferred, although this fern is quite forgiving of less than ideal conditions, coping reasonably well with the occasional dry spell. Light, peaty soil enriched with leaf mould would be a good planting medium; shelter from strong winds to prevent the tips of the fronds from drying out is also important. Pests and diseases are uncommon, although excess water gathering in the crown could lead to rotting.
Pteris cretica
Ribbon Fern or Table Fern
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Pteris cretica used to be thought of as a tender plant and was bought mainly for indoor use. but it is tougher than it looks and can tolerate surprisingly low temperatures.
At first sight, this pretty little fern looks more like a miniature bamboo. The fronds are quite flimsy ‘ribbons’ that are a fresh bright green in colour. Its height at maturity won’t exceed much more than 6ocm (2ft). It is a lovely fern to possess and makes a complete contrast to most others.
It can cope with more sun than many other ferns, but still prefers a shady aspect. Too much sunshine, particularly midday sun, would scorch the fronds and the fresh green colour would take on a yellowish tinge. Light shade would be perfect. It can also cope with more wind than many ferns, but a sheltered position would still be best. This fern seems to manage with less water than most too. Keeping the soil constantly moist would give better results, but if it dries out occasionally, no great harm seems to happen to it. Most soil types suit Pteris cretica, but avoid very heavy clay, which makes it hard work for the roots to penetrate, and poor chalky ones, which dry out too quickly. This fern is so forgiving, that once settled in the garden, little fernlettes will appear out of cracks in nearby paving or between the pointing of damp brick walls. If spores blow into such places, they can mature quite happily, living on virtually nothing except the odd shower of rain.
Pteris cretica is another fern that deserves to be planted in large numbers. Groups of this beautiful foliage growing together look very effective. They provide excellent groundcover for planting underneath moisture-loving trees and make a good job of brightening up dark and dull corners of the garden.
Slugs and snails adore the foliage and can completely ruin the appearance of all the fronds. If your garden is prone to these slimy beasts, use a slug repellent regularly throughout spring and summer. If the fronds become too tatty, cut the whole plant back to its base. New croziers will soon grow up to regain the fern’s former glory. The new spring growth is an added attraction – its colour is even more striking, and new fronds are produced in plentiful amounts.
Propagation can be done from spores, but there is an easier method. As the plants mature, they start to form large clumps. Where there is enough material on substantial older plants, bits can be sliced off and separated in the same way as for other clump-forming plants.
Woodwardia radicans
Chain Fern
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The luxuriant foliage needs lots of space to display itself.
A magnificent evergreen fern, with massive arching fronds up to 6ft (1.8m) long, which would love a mild, jungly garden to lounge in. Alternatively, it can make a dramatic addition to a steamy bathroom if suspended from the ceiling in a large hanging basket. As Woodwardia radicans needs very little heat, it would also make a fine plant for a cool conservatory.
This fern tolerates higher light levels than many ferns, but still needs to be protected from direct sun. It should never be allowed to dry out and, if grown indoors, appreciates frequent misting to keep the air around it humid. Plant in a sheltered spot. The huge foliage would fare badly in a windy position. An ideal soil mix would be one part peat (or peat substitute) one part loam, one part leaf mould and a handful of silver sand mixed in to help with the drainage. This is fairly easy to provide for indoor use, but for outdoors, any rich, light, moisture-retentive soil would give perfectly good results.
Older specimens planted outside can produce little fernlettes at the end of each mature frond. As they increase in size, they weigh the parent frond down so it touches the ground. In time, the baby fern will be tempted by the compost directly underneath it to send out some roots. Eventually, the new plant will become self-sufficient until it matures enough to repeat the process with another generation. In the wild, they could cover quite a wide area using this method, with lots of ferns all linked together. Presumably, this is what gives us the common name of Chain Fern. Another explanation is that the sori (spore cases) form a pattern like a chain on the backs of the fronds, but that theory is a bit dull for my liking. Fortunately, as many of us would object to having the entire garden covered with giant fronds, the baby plants can be removed at any time and grown on separately.
Very little annual maintenance is needed, apart from removing the occasional older brown frond. Cut these right back into the plant so the cut end isn’t visible, using secateurs. Pests and diseases are rarely a problem, especially if grown outdoors. The most important thing to worry about is the watering. Too much will lead to rotting; too little will cause the fronds to shrivel. Rainwater is preferred, particularly if you live in a hard water area.
