Читать книгу The Irish Farmers’ Market Cookbook - Clodagh McKenna - Страница 24

Belvelly Smokehouse is the oldest smokehouse in Ireland. Run by Frank Hederman, Belvelly is best known for its smoked wild Irish salmon, prized for the subtle flavours characterised by a unique balance in taste between the fish and the beechwood smoke. All the fish are wild and sourced locally, or have been cultivated to organic certification. When wild salmon is in short supply, Frank uses Glenarm salmon, an organic fish that is reared off the coast of County Antrim, where the strong tides ensure a good lean texture and a beautiful smoked product.

Frank with his delicious smoked mackerel.

Frank is a passionate advocate for the highest standards and quality in artisan food production. At the smokehouse he uses only the finest ingredients to craft his end product, which include smoked mussels, mackerel, eel and haddock, as well as his award-winning salmon.

Frank started out in the early eighties alongside many of the early cheese makers and other artisan food producers. His motivation for going into salmon smoking wasn’t passion (that came later), but an eye for a good business opportunity. He grew up in Cobh where there was a strong fishing – and fish processing – culture and he needed to make a living. Like the farmers who turned their surplus of milk into cheese, Frank saw smoking as a good way to add value to salmon and other fish.

In 1996 he started trading at his first outdoor market, the Coal Quay Market – now known as Cornmarket – although locals still call it Coal Quay. A year later he was one of the pioneers at Temple Bar (a market in central Dublin). In at the beginning of the food revolution with a great product, Frank soon had stalls in Holywood, Co. Down, and eventually at other markets around Co. Dublin. The English market was a natural progression as he developed retail outlets and grew the business. He took a stall when Midleton Market started in 2000 and still sells there, as well as at Mahon Point and Cobh. When I first started at Midleton Market, I didn’t have the cash to invest in a proper umbrella and stall, but Frank bought them for me without question and allowed me to pay him back when my stall got busier. It taught me that farmers’ markets aren’t just about making money but that they are also about camaraderie and community – may this ethos stay alive. I would like to take this opportunity to say thank you to Frank for his unquestioning support throughout my days at the markets.

Frank’s stall selling smoked fish and patés.

Belvelly is always looking for ways to develop new products. Recently they have produced smoked mussels marinated in vinaigrette, which are delicious just as they are, great in salads or on hot buttered brown toast canapés. The marinated mussels are also sold in pure olive oil, so that they can be used in hot dishes too. I think they are a fantastic idea for all cooks looking for that little extra inspiration. Rich and flavoursome, just two to four per person would flavour chowder, a risotto, or a leek tart.