Читать книгу 100 Places in Cuba Every Woman Should Go - Conner Gorry - Страница 23

DON’T BOTHER ASKING YOUR TAXI driver or waiter how to get to the Jardín Japonés (also known as the Isla Japonésa); this is one of Havana’s best kept secrets, unknown even to many lifetime locals. Tucked behind the imposing 19th-century mansion housing the unremarkable Restaurante 1830, this little seaside hideaway is perfect for when you need some peace and tranquility mixed in with your hectic Havana days and nights. Constructed entirely of coral, rocks, and seashells, the turrets, bridges, benches, and diminutive caves here are marvelous for beholding a sunset while a trumpeter or two practice their chops in the Moorish cupola overlooking where the Almendares River empties into the sea. I was literally brought to tears the first time I explored this site—granted I was wracked with grief at the time and a friend suggested I head here for some solace. This artificial island officially named Koisima Isla Japonesa (love island) emits a rejuvenating energy that is hard to put into words. Indeed, after I swiped the tears away and headed back home, I discovered I’d lost my keys somewhere amongst the shells and coral and caves, but didn’t even care.

No cost was spared in constructing this idyllic isle: the tiles for the mini-mosque were imported from La Cartuja in Seville, Spain and the cupola crown was brought piece by piece from India. Local lore holds that the Jardín Japonés was contracted by the mansion’s owner, Carlos Miguel de Céspedes, to keep tabs on his lover who lived across the way, in the mansion known as the Casa Verde, distinguished by its green gabled roof. Perhaps apocryphal, the towers here do provide a direct view of the Casa Verde, a short rowboat ride away, adding weight to the story. Carlos Miguel (who is no relation to the father of Cuban independence, Carlos Manuel de Céspedes) was Secretary of Public Works under President Gerardo Machado, a dictatorial figure who spilled blood indiscriminately. Céspedes oversaw the construction of major projects including the Capitolio, the Carretera Central, the Prado, the Hotel Nacional, and this mansion. Thursday and Saturdays, the patio of Restaurante 1830 facing the Jardín Japonés hosts live salsa bands with raucous dancing and plenty of willing partners. The Torreón de la Chorrera (the stone tower just east of “1830” as it’s known here) is a popular seaside spot for beers packed with Cubans at all hours and hosts occasional electronica raves as well.