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"

TO

Samuel L.M. Barlow, Esq.,

OF

NEW YORK CITY,

A

True Gentleman in Every Quality and Duty of Life,

THESE PAGES ARE DEDICATED,

AS A

SLIGHT TESTIMONY

TO THE

Unvarying Friendship borne by him for the author

PREFACE.

In offering this volume to the Public, the result of a year's experience and labor, I must indeed feel gratified, and more than rewarded, if any of those who may peruse its pages shall find in them a tithe of the pleasure which I enjoyed in journeying in and about the nooks, crannies, and curious places, of what may be justly called the greatest and most populous City of the Modern World.

Believing that a Metropolis of Three and a Half Millions of people should be observed and described, if observed and described at all, in a large and comprehensive sense, in order that a thorough knowledge of it may be obtained by those who will do me the honor of turning the leaves of this book, I have not hesitated to take my readers into places which they might shrink from visiting alone, and which are rarely or ever seen by the stranger, in London. Therefore have I sketched its Haunts of Vice, Misery, and Crime, as well as its fairer and brighter aspects, with no faltering in my purpose, so that the American people might see London as I saw it, and as it exists To-Day.

The material employed in making the book was gathered from personal observation, while acting as a Special Correspondent of the New York World, in London, and I cannot do less than make an acknowledgment of the kindness of its Editor, Mr. Manton Marble, by whose permission I have used some portions of the matter embodied in this work.

DANIEL JOSEPH KIRWAN.

Hartford, August 1st, 1870.

1 One More Unfortunate Frontispiece

2 Grand Staircase, Buckingham Palace—Illuminated Title-Page.

3  Bird's-Eye View of London,

4 Initial Letter,

5 The London Stone,

6 Thank you, Sir,

7 The Rock and Chain, Tail Piece,

8 Initial Letter,

9  Sword, &c., Tail Piece,

10 Entrance to Docks,

11 I Don't Think it Will Hurt me,

12 Forest, Initial Letter,

13 Buckingham Palace (Full Page,)

14 Portrait of Queen Victoria,

15 John Brown Exercising the Queen,

16  Fancy Sketch, Tail Piece,

17 Lion on Guard, Initial Letter,

18 Purty Bill Showing us in,

19  Wont you Take Something?

20 Snake Swallowing,

21 "Bilking Bet takes the Chair,"

22 "Teddy the Kinchin's Song,"

23  Explosive Materials, Tail Piece,

24 Initial Letter,

25 Cogers' Hall, Debating Club,

26 Snake in the Grass, Tail Piece,

27 Initial Letter,

28 Conservative Club House,

29 Carlton Club House,

30 Oxford and Cambridge Club House,

31 United Service Club House,

32 Architectural Sketch, Tail Piece,

33 Initial Letter,

34 Westminster Abbey,

35 Shakespeare's Tomb,

36 Tomb of Milton,

37 Tomb of Mary Queen of Scots,

38 Coronation Chair,

39 Gauntleted Hand and Sword, Tail Piece,

40 Initial Letter,

41 Victoria Theatre in the New Cut, (Full Page,)

42 Rag Fair,

43 A Cell Window, Initial Letter,

44 The Last Execution at Newgate,

45 Fetters and Chain, Tail Piece,

46  Broken Wheel, Initial Letter,

47 Doctors' Commons,

48 Eagle and Snake, Tail Piece,

49 Initial Letter,

50 A Bohemian Carouse,

51 A Water Scene, Tail Piece,

52 Tower of London (Full Page,)

53 Initial Letter,

54 Traitors' Gate,

55 The Crown Jewels,

56 Imperial Orb, Ampulla and other Jewels,

57 The State Salt-Cellars,

58 Cannon, Tail Piece,

59 Initial Letter,

60 The Cadgers' Meal,

61 Raft Timber, Tail Piece,

62 The Old Oak, Initial Letter,

63 Bathing in Hyde Park,

64 The Labyrinth,

65 The Crystal Palace,

66 The Promenade, Tail Piece,

67  Fort and Water Scene, Initial Letter,

68 Portrait of the Prince of Wales,

69 Prince and Cabman,

70 Broken Wagon and Dead Horse, Tail Piece,

71  Blood-Hounds in the Leash, Initial Letter,

72 Portrait of Lady Mordaunt,

73 Portrait of the Duke of Hamilton,

74 Portrait of the Marquis of Waterford,

75 Portrait of the Marquis of Hastings,

76 Mounted Cannon, Initial Letter,

77 Houses of Parliament (Full Page,)

78  Portrait of William Ewart Gladstone

79 The Legislative Bar-Maid,

80 Portrait of John Bright,

81 The Student, Tail Piece,

82 Initial Letter,

83 "Could you Make it a Tanner?"

84 The Speaker of the House,

85 First Lord of the Admiralty,

86 Portrait of Robert E. Lowe,

87 Gladstone Speaking in the House of Commons (Full Page,)

88 Landscape, Tail Piece,

89 Initial Letter,

90 The Pocket-Book Game,

91 Steam Frigate, Tail Piece,

92 A Broadside, Initial Letter,

93 The Sewer Hunter,

94  Blood-Hound, Tail Piece,

95 Island, Initial Letter,

96 Cats Receiving Rations,

97 The Great Porter Tun,

98 Initial Letter,

99 The Harvard Crew (Full Page,)

100 Bridge, Tail Piece,

101 Initial Letter,

102 The Oxford Crew, (Full Page,)

103 The University Race, (Full Page,)

104 Beautiful Craft, Tail Piece,

105 Initial Letter,

106  Hospital Ship "Dreadnought,"

107 Jonathan Wild's Skeleton,

108 Initial Letter,

109 Coke Peddler,

110 Bum Boatman,

111 "I Gets it for Cigar Stumps,"

112 Street Acrobats,

113 Punch and Judy,

114 Initial Letter,

115 Nelson's Monument,

116 Damaged Tree, Tail Piece,

117 Initial Letter,

118 Nursery in the Foundling Hospital,

119 Washing the Waifs,

120 Landscape, Tail Piece,

121 Initial Letter,

122 Breakfast Stall, Covent Garden Market (Full Page,)

123 The Orange Market,

124 Going to Market, Tail Piece,

125 Fancy Piece, Initial Letter,

126 Wild and Desolate, Tail Piece,

127 Initial Letter,

128  Foreign Cafe in Coventry Street

129 Canteen of the Alhambra,

130 The Old Sinner,

131 Rough and Ready, Tail Piece,

132 In the Haymarket,

133 Initial Letter,

134 St. Paul's Cathedral,

135 Sharp-Shooter, Initial Letter,

136 "Beautiful Miss Neilson,"

137 A Gin Public in the New Cut,

138  A Gallery of the "Vic,"

139 Putting on Airs, Tail Piece,

140 Initial Letter,

141 An Auction at Billingsgate Fish Market, (Full Page,)

142 Initial Letter,

143 Lincoln's Inn,

144 Fancy Sketch, Tail Piece,

145 An English Oak, Initial Letter,

146 Bankers' Eating-House,

147 The Bank of England,

148 "I Began to Perspire,"

149 Carpet-Bag, Tail Piece,

150 London Bridge, (Full Page,)

151 Forest Scene, Initial Letter,

152 Temple Bar, Fleet Street,

153 The New Blackfriars Bridge,

154 Bridge and Water Scene, Tail Piece,

155 Initial Letter,

156 Windsor Castle,

157 Tail Piece,

158 Initial Letter,

159 Loading the Prison Van,

160 Detective Irving,

161 Before the Lord Mayor,

162 Bible and Hand, Initial Letter,

163 Portrait of Spurgeon,

164 Portrait of Father Ignatius,

165  "Lothair" (Marquis of Bute,)

166 Ruins, Tail Piece,

167 Initial Letter,

168 "Scott's" in the Haymarket,

169 The Midnight Mission, (Full Page,)

170 "Skittles" and the Princess Mary,

171 A Row in Cremorne,

172 Sword and Purse, Initial Letter,

173  Portrait of "Mabel Grey,"

174  Portrait of "Anonyma,"

175  Portrait of "Baby Hamilton,"

176 Mabel Grey at Home,

177  Portrait of "Alice Gordon,"

178 Snake and Dove, Initial Letter,

179 A Meal at a Cheap Lodging House, (Full Page,)

180 "Damnable Jack,"

181 Statue of George Peabody,

182 Tail Piece,

183 Initial Letter,

184 Old "Smudge," the Cabby,

185 "A Hansom Cab,"

186 "One Hundred Rats in Nine Minutes,"

187 The Rat-Catcher,

188 "Paddy's Goose,"

189 Waiting for the Tide,

190 Ruins, Tail Piece,

191 "The Times" Office,

192 The Sub-Editors' Room, "Daily Telegraph" Office,

193 Portrait of James Anthony Froude,

194 Portrait of Algernon Charles Swinburne,

195 Portrait of John Stewart Mill,

196 Portrait of Benjamin Disraeli,

197 Portrait of John Ruskin,

198 Portrait of Charles Kingsley,

199 Portrait of Anthony Trollope,

200 Tail Piece,

201 Initial Letter,

202 Half-Penny Soup House, (Full Page,)

203 A Pawn-Broker's Shop,

204 A Third Class Railway Carriage,

205 Tail Piece,

206 Map of London,

CHAPTER I.
THE MISTRESS OF THE WORLD.
View from the Cupola of St. Paul's Cathedral—Population of London—Its Wealth and Poverty—Interesting Statistics,	17
CHAPTER II.
THE SILENT HIGHWAY.
The Thames Embankment—The Tunnel—The Subway—Tunnel Thieves—Pneumatic Railway,	24
CHAPTER III.
THE DOCKS, SHIPPING, AND COMMERCE.
Custom-House Duties—Immense Wine Vaults under the Docks—Hoisting and Discharging Cargoes—London and West India Docks—Opposition to the New Dock System—Dock Laborers,	28
CHAPTER IV.
PALACES OF LONDON.
St. James—Whitehall—Buckingham Palace—Magnificence of the Queen's Residence—The Grand Staircase—Queen's Library—The Famous John Brown,	42
CHAPTER V.
HIDDEN DEPTHS.
Underground Life—A Friendly Visit among Thieves and Pick-Pockets—The Midnight Feast,	58
CHAPTER VI.
DEBATING CLUBS AND COGERS' HALL.
Society of Cogers—The Most Worthy Grand—News of the Week—Interesting Debates—Irish Orator and Scotch Presbyterian—Liberals and Conservatives—"Where are we now?"—Farce and Tragedy,	76
CHAPTER VII.
CLUBS AND CLUB HOUSES.
Aristocratic Members—Entrance and Subscription Fees—How Managed and Supported—Architectural Splendor—Choice Wines and Luxurious Dinners—Interesting Statistics—A Model Kitchen—Heavy Swell Club,	92
CHAPTER VIII.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
Its Dimensions and Architectural Construction—Its Wealth and Immense Revenues—The Burial-Place of the Kings and Queens—Magnificence of their Tombs—Tomb of Shakespeare—Tomb of Milton—Tomb of Mary Queen of Scots—Coronation of William the Conqueror—The Massacre,	107
CHAPTER IX.
THE COSTERMONGERS AND RAG FAIR.
The New Cut—Heathenism of the Costers—Marriage Relation—Old Clothes District—Petticoat Lane—Congress of Rags—Modus Operandi of Selling,	128
CHAPTER X.
FROM NEWGATE TO TYBURN.
Dying for an Idea—Execution of Barrett—Man in the Mask—Famous Criminals—Pestiferous Prison—The Old Bailey Court—Hotel Regulations—Drinking from St. Giles' Bowl,	145
CHAPTER XI.
DOCTORS' COMMONS.
Marriage Licenses—Divorces—Ecclesiastical Court—High Court of Admiralty—Paying the Piper—Legal Scoundrelism—The Last Will and Testaments of Shakespeare, Milton, and of Napoleon Bonaparte—The Forgotten Sailor,	159
CHAPTER XII.
THE BOHEMIANS OF LONDON.
Carlisle Arms—A Pint of Cooper—Cockerell's Lodgings—Fitz and Dawson, or the Radical and Conservative Reporter—The Short Hand Reporter—Dawson's Story—A Song from the Speaker—Beautiful Potato,	167
CHAPTER XIII.
TOWER, PALACE, AND PRISON.
Its History and Dimensions—Council Chamber—Jolly Bishops and Royal Prisoners—The Traitor's Gate—Anne Boleyn—Princess Elizabeth—Heroism of Lady Jane Grey upon the Scaffold—The Crown Jewels—What can be seen for a Sixpence,	183
CHAPTER XIV.
CADGERS OF LONDON BRIDGE.
Under the Arches—Vagrancy and Pauperism—The Family Gathering—The Cadger's Meal—A Confirmed Vagrant—The Girl Molly—The Hopeful Son—The Cadger's Story,	207
CHAPTER XV.
THE LUNGS OF LONDON.
Regent's and Hyde Parks—Dimensions of the Public Parks and Gardens—What they Contain—Bathing in Hyde Park—Richmond Park with its Forests and Hunting Grounds—Hampton Court Park—Its Labyrinth—The Crystal Palace—Veteran Musicians—Greenwich Park—Grand Observatory,	216
CHAPTER XVI.
THE RAKES OF THE ROYAL FAMILY.
Vagabonds in Kingly Robes—Prince of Wales and his Personal Friends—The Prince and the London Brewer as Firemen—Lord Carington as a Coachman—His Cowardly Assault upon Greenville Murray—The Prince and Cabman—Infamy of the Prince—A Mad King,	226
CHAPTER XVII.
FAST YOUNG ENGLAND.
Lord Carington—Lady Mordaunt, Divorce Proceedings, and Interesting Testimony—Love Letters of the Prince—Duke of Hamilton—The Fastest Young Man in England—The Marquis of Waterford—Marquis of Hastings—Duke of Newcastle—Earl of Jersey—Lord Clinton and others,	240
CHAPTER XVIII.
LORDS AND COMMONS.
Westminster Palace and Houses of Parliament—Interior of the House of Commons—Bobbies and Cabbies—Strangers' Gallery—The Legislative Bar-Maid—William Ewart Gladstone—England's Greatest Commoner John Bright,	270
CHAPTER XIX.
LORDS AND COMMONS CONTINUED.
Reporters' Gallery—Dr. Johnson taking Notes—The Speaker and his Wig—Important Personages—First Lord of the Admiralty—Peers in the Gallery—Gladstone's Early Life—The Eloquence of the Premier—The Sarcasm of Disraeli—Ducal Houses—Upper House of Parliament—Privileges of the Peers,	285
CHAPTER XX.
LONDON POLICE AND DETECTIVES.
The Old Jewry—Central Detective's Office—Relics of Crimes—Inspector Bailey—Experience of Mr. Funnell—The Pocket-Book Game—New York a Precious bad Place—Police Districts—Expenses Attending them—River Thieves,	318
CHAPTER XXI.
HUNTING THE SEWERS.
The City Honey-Combed—2,000 Miles of Sewerage—An Unlawful and Dangerous Business—Prizes Found—The Hunter's Story—Great Battle with the Rats—Victory at last,	330
CHAPTER XXII.
BACCHUS AND BEER.
The English a Great Beer-Drinking People—Amount of Exports—Barclay and Perkins—A Princely Firm—Cats on Guard—The House of Hanbury, Buxton & Co.—Great Porter Tun—Libraries in the Establishments—Quantities of Beer used in London,	337
CHAPTER XXIII.
HARVARD AGAINST OXFORD.
Police Arrangements—Thomas Hughes, M.P.—Dark Blue and Magenta—On the Tow-Path—A Frightful Jam—Booths and Shows—Badges and Rosettes—The Dear Old Flag,	344
CHAPTER XXIV.
STRUGGLE AND VICTORY.
On Board the Press Boat—The Harvard Crew—Loring's Condition—Simmons the Pride of the Crew—The Oxford Crew—"Little Corpus," the Coxswain—The Start—Harvard Leads—Burnham's bad Steering—Oxford's Vengeance Stroke—The Last Desperate Struggle—Beaten by Six Seconds—Fair Play and Courtesy,	362
CHAPTER XXV.
CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.
"Domesday Book"—Oldest Books in England—Hospital Ship "Dreadnought"—A Gaudy Show—The Queen's Stage-Coach—Jonathan Wild's Skeleton—The Lord Mayor's State Coach—Installation of a London Sheriff,	382
CHAPTER XXVI.
STREET SIGHTS OF LONDON.
Street Hawkers—Venders of Old Boots and Shoes—The Dog Fancier—Bird Sellers—Coke Peddlers—Bum Boatman—Stock in Trade—How Dick gets his Porridge—"I Gets it for Cigar-Stumps"—Street Acrobats—Punch and Judy Show,	391
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE BRITISH MUSEUM AND NATIONAL GALLERY.
Its Origin—Laying the Foundation—Reading Room—Departments of the Museum—The Galleries and Saloons—The Three Libraries—What can be seen—Nelson's Monument—Pictures and Works of Art in the National Gallery—The Great Masters—Free to the Working People,	410
CHAPTER XXVIII.
NAKED AND NEEDY.
Infanticide—The Benevolent Captain—Foundling Hospital—Admission of Children—Great Numbers Received—How they Dine—How they Sleep—Washing the Waifs—Charitable Institutions—An Interesting Sight—Innumerable Bequests,	420
CHAPTER XXIX.
MARKETS AND FOOD.
Amount of Food Sold—Inspections—Metropolitan Cattle Market—New Smithfield Market—Covent Garden Market—Hot Coffee Girl—Vegetable Market—The Baked Potato Man—The Jews' Orange Market,	435
CHAPTER XXX.
SECRETS OF A RIVER.
Waterloo Bridge—The Pale-Faced Girl—Three O'clock in the Morning—Weary of Life—A Leap from the Parapet—Fruitless Attempt to Save—A Sad Sight—The Wages of Sin is Death,	452
CHAPTER XXXI.
INTO THE JAWS OF DEATH.
Leicester Square—Foreign Cafe in Coventry Street—The Abode of Sir Joshua Reynolds—The Residence of William Hogarth—Royal Alhambra Palace—The Great Social Evil—"Wotten Wow"—In the Canteen—The Old Sinner—The Tulip and the Daisy,	461
CHAPTER XXXII.
THE "ARGYLE," "BARNES'" AND "CASINO."
The Haymarket by Night—The Argyle Rooms—Fast Young Men—Paint and Jewelry—Silks and Satins—Free and Easy—Barnes'—"Holborn Casino"—A Magnificent Saloon—Good Night,	476
CHAPTER XXXIII.
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.
Its History and Dimensions—Destruction of Old St. Paul's—Annual Revenues—Prices of Admission—Monuments to Nelson—Burial-Place of Wellington—Nelson's Funeral—A Grand Sight—"I am the Resurrection and the Life,"	486
CHAPTER XXXIV.
GOING TO THE PLAY.
Beautiful Miss Neilson—The Lord Chamberlain a Censor—Royal Victoria Theatre—Covent Garden and Drury Lane Theatres—A "Gin Public" in the New Cut—The Gallery of the "Vic"—The Chorus of "Immensekoff,"	493
CHAPTER XXXV.
BILLINGSGATE FISH MARKET.
Profit on Fish—Oyster Boats—Number of Fishing Vessels—The Fish Woman—The Old Style of Dress—Breakfast at Billingsgate—Capital Invested—Immense Sales,	508
CHAPTER XXXVI.
THE INNS OF COURT.
Number of Students—Gray's Inn—The New Hall of Lincoln's Inn—Parliament Chamber—How to become a Lawyer—Procuring Admission—"Hall Dinners"—Cup of "Sack"—The Toast—Irish Students,	518
CHAPTER XXXVII.
BANK OF ENGLAND AND THE MINT.
Its History—The Riots—Ledgers and Money-Bags—A Powerful Corporation—Bankers' Eating-House—Great Panic of 1825—In the Vaults—Making Sovereigns—Marking Room—How the Coin is Tested—Celebrated Counterfeiters,	526
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
BRIDGES OF LONDON.
History of Old London Bridge—The Fire of 1632—Where Traitors' Heads were Suspended—Temple Bar—Traffic of London Bridges—Southwark and Waterloo Bridges—The New Blackfriars Bridge—Suspension Bridges—Acrobatic Feats—Scott, the American Diver,	547
CHAPTER XXXIX.
WINDSOR CASTLE.
Great number of Apartments—The Round Tower—The Audience Chamber—Throne Room—Visit to the Queen's Bedroom—An Elegant Apartment,	556
CHAPTER XL.
BEFORE THE MAGISTRATES.
The "Old Bailey"—Its Jurisdiction—The Lord Mayor's Court—The Trial of a Young Forger—The Judges' Dinner—Loading the Prison Van—The Mansion House—Detective Irving—The Forger Harwood—How Justice is Administered,	566
CHAPTER XLI.
CANTERBURY AND ROME.
Churches and Sects—Bishop of London—Archbishop of Canterbury—Spurgeon—"Apocalypse Cumming"—Church of England—Father Ignatius—Roman Catholic Lords—Marquis of Bute,	576
CHAPTER XLII.
LEGION OF THE LOST.
The Great Parade Ground—"Scott's" in the Haymarket—Oysters in every Style—Prostitutes and Abandoned Women—The Midnight Mission—Rev. Baptist Noel—Cremorne Gardens at Chelsea—A Row at Cremorne—"Skittles" and the Princess Mary of Cambridge,	587
CHAPTER XLIII.
SCARLET WOMEN.
Goodwood Races—Men of the Turf—Swarms of People—The Barouche and Four—Beauty of its Occupants—"Anonyma" and the Chestnut Mare—"Mabel Grey" and "Baby Hamilton"—The Race for the Goodwood Cup—The Itinerant Preacher—Mabel Grey at Home—"The Kitten"—Alice Gordon,	598
CHAPTER XLIV.
CHEAP LODGING HOUSES.
Eve of the Great Derby Race—Visit to Westminster—Lodging House of Jack Scrag—Four-Penny Beds—Unpleasant Bed-Fellow—Attacking the Enemy—A Lucky Escape—Crowded Buildings—Eminent Philanthropists—Model Lodging Houses—Munificent Gifts—George Peabody's Statue,	615
CHAPTER XLV.
A TRAMP IN THE BY-WAYS.
"Old Smudge," the Cabby—A "Hansom" Cab—Rates of Fares—A Convivial Pup—The Rat Pit—The Terrier "Skid"—The Match for £50—Skid Slaughters a Hundred Rats in 8:40—Paddy's "Goose," or "The White Swan"—Please Excuse me—Waiting for the Tide—Cured of the Blues,	626
CHAPTER XLVI.
LITERATURE AND JOURNALISM.
Work and Wages—Influence of London Journals—Management of the Press—Circulation and Delivery of Papers—Celebrated Writers—James Anthony Froude—Algernon Charles Swinburne—John Stewart Mill—Benjamin Disraeli—John Ruskin—Charles Kingsley, Anthony Trollope, and others,	636
CHAPTER XLVII.
THE POOR OF LONDON.
Half-Penny Soup House—The Little Cast-aways and Waifs Provided for—Visit to the Work-House of St Martin's—The Workers' Uniform—The Old Pauper—Daily Rations—Schools—Trades—Struggles and Trials of the London Poor—Pawn-Brokers' Shops—Third Class Railway Carriages,	655

CHAPTER I.

THE MISTRESS OF THE WORLD.

N the civilized world perhaps such another sight cannot be witnessed, as that which greets the eye from the great Cupola of St. Paul's, when the view is taken on a bright summer morning, after daybreak has settled on the leads and huge gilded cross of this, the most mighty of English Cathedrals.

I saw this vast expanse of brick, stone, and mortar, one delicious, but hazy September morning, from the outer circle of the dome, and I shall never forget that peopled metropolis which lay swarming below me like a vast human hive.

For a radius of ten miles, the roofs and spires of countless religious edifices, dwelling-houses, banks, the tall cones of storied monuments, the delicate tracery of a forest of slender masts, and the smoky chimneys of innumerable breweries, manufactories, and gas-houses, met my vision, which had already begun to weary long before any of the individual characteristics of the British metropolis had segregated themselves from the aggregate mass.

Directly before me, and almost at my feet, lay the turbid Thames, winding in and out sinuously under bridges, and heaving from the labor which the paddles of numerous steam craft impressed in its dirty yellow bosom. These small steamers were of a black and red, mixed, color, and it was only through a glass that I could discern where the two colors met and divided. Passing under the huge stone bridges, their smoke stacks seemed to break in two parts for an instant as they shot under an arch of the huge spans of London or Waterloo Bridges; gracefully as a gentleman bows to his partner in a quadrille, and then the black funnels went back to their original erect but raking position with great deliberation.

I had secured an eyrie in the top of St. Paul's at an early hour with the aid of a greasy half crown, which I had slipped to an old toothless verger with his silver-tipped wand, and he readily gratified my wish to allow me egress from the Whispering gallery which encircles the interior dome of the Cathedral, to a point where, giddily, I might lean out and look all over the great city.

"It's as good as my place is worth, sir," said he, "to let you look out here. A man who was a little light headed from drinking tumbled from this window some years ago, and was broken to pieces on the cobble stones below."

The danger did not prevent me from looking long and greedily at the splendid coup d'[oe]il.

THE LONDON STONE.

Far up the river to the left the queerly shaped toy turrets and massive ramparts and quadrangles of the Tower broke through the morning haze in shapely and artistic masses, and at the back of the green spot of grass which surmounts Tower Hill, the square, solid, and substantial looking Mint showed where Her Majesty's sworn servants were already at work employed in making counterfeit presentments of her features for circulation in trade and commerce. The Norman tower and flanking buttresses of St. Saviour's, Southwark, next came in range, followed by the long oval glass roof of the Eastern Railway Terminus, facing Cannon street, where is erected London Stone, upon which Jack Cade sat in triumph before the dirty, noisy, rabble, which had followed his fortunes; and now I can see Guy's Hospital with its hundred windows, the Corinthian Royal Exchange in Cornhill, the massive Guildhall where many a bloated Britisher has fed on the fat of the land; the Mansion House in which the Lord Mayor occasionally does petty offenders the honor of sentencing them to the Bridewell; and now the view enlarges to the southward, and the eye takes in the fine Holborn Viaduct, lately honored by the Queen's presence; Barclay and Perkin's massive caravanserai for the brewing of beer, and the gray stones of St. Sepulchre's where the passing bell is always tolled for the condemned Newgate prisoner just before execution. The square, gray blocks of this fortress of crime gloom in an unpitying way below me, and there now is the court yard of Christ's Hospital with the gowned and bare headed school lads at their morning game of foot ball, and their shouts peal upward, even up as high as the dome of St. Paul's, like the chimes of merry music. The great piles of Somerset house and the Custom House frown down on the busy river, and the sound of the bell of St. Clement Dane's in the Strand, striking six o'clock, mingles with the mighty thunder whirr of the incoming train from Dover, which dashes like a demon over the Charing Cross bridge and into its station. Structure after structure rises on the retina, the Treasury Buildings and Horse Guards in Parliament street, Marlborough House, the British Museum, Buckingham Palace, the University College, the Nelson and York Monuments, the splendid club houses in Pall Mall and St. James; Apsley House and Hyde Park with its lakes of silvery water, Westminster Abbey, the Clock and Victoria Towers surmounting the Parliament Houses which overhang the Thames, Lambeth Palace, the residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury, Chief Dignitary of the English State Church and Milbank Penitentiary down in dusty Westminster, and by the way this prison with its eight towers looks like a cruet stand and its towers certainly represent the caster bottles. With its parterre of trees in the central square, the quadrangles of Chelsea Hospital, and the dome of the Palm House in Kensington Garden next come under inspection, and finally I became weary in endeavoring to pierce the haze which the sun had broken into annoying fragments, and failing to penetrate farther than Vauxhall bridge, I give up the task and draw in my head after a last look at the Catherine and West India docks, bewildered and confused by the very immensity of wealth and population which is centered and aggregated below, under and in the shadow of St. Paul's, the Mother Church of Great Britain.

"THANK YOU, SIR."