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partOne

HIAWASSEE AND LITTLE TENNESSEE WATERSHED

TUSQUITEE CREEK

Tusquitee Creek heads up in Nantahala National Forest and runs along south of the Tusquitee Mountains. It flows primarily through a pastoral region before confluencing with the Hiawassee River downstream from Hayesville. The trip can be extended 2.5 miles by continuing on to the Hiawassee and paddling downstream to the second bend, coming close to CR 1300. Take out at the junction of CR 1345 with CR 1300.

MAPS: Shooting Creek, Hayesville (USGS); Clay (County)

length: 5.2 mi.

time: 2.5 hrs.

gauge: Visual

level: –5 in. & above

permits: No

gradient: 27

scenery: A–B

CR 1330 BRIDGE TO CR 1300 BRIDGE

DESCRIPTION: There are no difficulties. This is primarily a series of small rock gardens interspersed with an occasional ledge; however, be on the lookout for downed trees blocking the passage.

SHUTTLE: Take Tusquitee Street north out of Hayesville across the Hiawassee and bear northeast on CR 1307 to the gauge. Go beyond the gauge approximately 3.5 miles to CR 1330 and south to the bridge. To reach the takeout, take Tusquitee Street across the Hiawassee and bear northwest on CR 1300 approximately 1 mile to the takeout bridge.

GAUGE: It’s located on the southwest side of the CR 1307 bridge at the junction of CR 1326. The minimum level for a solo run is 5 inches below the bottom of zero. The river can be run almost all year, except during dry spells.

HIAWASSEE RIVER

The Hiawassee heads up in the vicinity of Unicoi Gap in the Chattahoochee National Forest in north Georgia and runs north until the impoundment at Lake Chatuge, where it enters North Carolina. It flows generally west to the backwaters of Hiawassee Lake west of Murphy.

MAPS: Hayesville, Peachtree (USGS); Clay, Cherokee (County)

length: 11.5 mi.

time: 2.5 hrs.

gauge: Visual

level: n/a

permits: No

gradient: 11

scenery: A–B

RECREATION AREA ON CLAY CR 1140 (MEYERS CHAPEL ROAD) TO CLAY CR 1302 BRIDGE

DESCRIPTION: There is some fairly heavy water at the shoals about 0.5 miles below the mouth of Fires Creek. This spot can swamp the unwary paddler quite easily. At lower levels there are many rock and boulder gardens throughout the stretch. The trip can be extended 1.5 miles by continuing on CR 1140 south to CR 1146, putting in at Barnard Bridge below the dam.

SHUTTLE: Take US 64 east from Hayesville and turn right into the recreation area on CR 1140. The takeout is reached by going west on US 64 from Hayesville and turning right on CR 1302 to the bridge.

GAUGE: None. The TVA plant at Lake Chatuge is generally in operation throughout the week, and under certain conditions runs on weekends. It is easy to see if there are no mud flats along the river. The operation schedule is not known until after 8 p.m. the night before. Call (800) 238-2264 after that time. The paddling times given on both sections are estimates and apply when power is being generated. When it is not, add at least 2.5 hours to section A and 1.5 hours to section B.

length: 9.5 mi.

time: 3 hrs.

gauge: Visual

level: n/a

permits: No

gradient: 14

scenery: A–B

CLAY CR 1302 (SHALLOWFORD) BRIDGE TO US 64 WEST OF PEACHTREE

DESCRIPTION: Mission Dam, located about 1.5 miles below the put-in, should be approached cautiously. There is a log boom below sand flats on the right, which can be crossed to a fairly easy takeout. Portage about 75 yards down the old road to a well-worn path and then another 50 yards below the fence to a short path to the dam race. The dam, operated by Duke Power, only runs when power is being generated at Lake Chatuge. The shoals below the dam are best scouted at this time. The trip can be extended 2.8 miles by taking out at the access area above the Frank Forsyth Bridge on Hiawassee Street in Hayesville.

SHUTTLE: Take out alongside US 64, about 0.5 miles west of CR 1550, west of Peachtree.

GAUGE: See Section A.

CULLASAJA RIVER

The Cullasaja rises in the Nantahala National Forest and drops over many falls and cascades before slowing down and entering the Little Tennessee. Three of the better-known falls are Bridal Veil, Dry Falls, and Cullasaja. The latter drops some 400 spectacular feet to a point about 0.5 miles above the put-in. US 64 follows alongside the river throughout most of this area. It is well worth a drive up through the gorge toward the resort village of Highlands.

MAPS: Scaley Mountain, Corbin Knob (USGS); Macon (County)

length: 5.3 mi.

time: 2.5 hrs.

gauge: Visual

level: 2.3 ft.

permits: No

gradient: 23

scenery: B–C

CR 1678 BRIDGE TO CR 1668

DESCRIPTION: Watch for a fairly steep cut through a rock garden, about 150 yards down from the put-in, followed by a series of ledges. At higher water levels it would be best to scout this stretch.

SHUTTLE: From Franklin, drive east on US 64 to CR 1678 (Peeks Creek Road) and go south to the bridge. To reach the takeout, travel on CR 1668 west off US 64 (just south of the US 64 bridge) 0.4 miles to CR 1698.

GAUGE: The USGS gauge is on CR 1524 (Sugar Fork Road) about 40 yards above US 64 on the east bank. The minimum for a solo run is a reading of 2.3.

LITTLE TENNESSEE RIVER

The Little Tennessee first appears to the traveler on US 23/441 south of Franklin as a small creek. One will wonder how such a small stream can grow to a full-size river between here and Iotla. It flows generally north between the Nantahala Mountain Range to the west and the Cowee Range to the east before reaching the impoundment at Fontana.

The riverside alternates between farmlands and woodlands in Section A, while below Lost Bridge it becomes heavily forested, except where CR 1114 occasionally hits it. The area near Franklin and around much of Macon County is widely known for its great mineral deposits and is certainly a rock hound’s heaven.

The “Little T” is one of the few rivers in North Carolina that lends itself to overnight canoe camping. Generally speaking, there is enough water to carry gear, while the rapids aren’t so formidable that the paddler is likely to finish the day with wet provisions. Unfortunately, there aren’t many streams remaining that can claim both these qualities. The good ones have either been dammed, leaving nothing but flat water, are too shallow to carry the necessary equipment, or are too rough to maneuver through rapids with the extra weight in the boat.

Be aware that much of the land along the Little Tennessee is in private ownership, so paddlers should seek permission before camping. The Needmore tract is managed by the Wildlife Resources Commission.

MAPS: Franklin, Alarka, Wesser (USGS); Macon, Swain (County)

length: 10 mi.

time: 4.5 hrs.

gauge: Visual/ phone

level: n/a

permits: No

gradient: 5

scenery: A–B

NC 28 BRIDGE AT IOTLA TO LOST BRIDGE

DESCRIPTION: There are no difficulties. The first several miles are flat with an occasional riffle. There are a few shallow ledges in the latter part of the section.

SHUTTLE: Drive north on NC 28 to the bridge at Iotla, about 4 miles north of Franklin. To get to the takeout, continue on NC 28 to Lost Bridge.

GAUGE: The USGS gauge is on the left bank 0.8 miles north of Needmore and approximately 6.8 miles below the Lost Bridge Road bridge. Only following the very rare extreme dry periods would the “Little T” be too low to run.

length: 13 mi.

time: 4.5 hrs.

gauge: Visual

level: 350– 2,000 cfs

permits: No

gradient: 14

scenery: A

LOST BRIDGE, OFF NC 28, TO US 19 BRIDGE

DESCRIPTION: There are several ledges that should be approached cautiously at higher levels. When Fontana is quite low, there is a series of ledges that runs for close to 250 yards. At the end of this rapid, the river, which has previously been up to 300 feet wide, narrows down to rush through an area no wider than 20 feet. Before Fontana Dam flooded the river, this part was known as The Narrows.

The Narrows should definitely be scouted before you attempt to run, especially in higher waters when the entire rapid can be quite formidable. The standing wave created at the bottom of The Narrows can reach 5 feet at higher levels. At lower levels, scout on the left; at higher levels, scout on the right.

The water level of Lake Fontana is generally lowered during the winter in preparation for the spring rains. Paddle beyond the US 19/NC 28 bridge to the right bank, to a small “goat path” that cuts back up under the bridge. This steep path isn’t recommended for potential coronary victims, but even paddlers with healthy hearts may second-guess their decision to work this section.

SHUTTLE: From Lost Bridge, continue north on NC 28 to US 19/NC 28; turn left and park at the bridge over the Little Tennessee.

GAUGE: See Section A. The lower section can have dangerously high water levels when Lake Fontana is low. To check on the stream flow, call the TVA at (800) 238-2264. The minimum reading is about 350 cfs, whereas the maximum will be approximately 2,000 cfs.

ALARKA CREEK

Alarka Creek heads up into Nantahala National Forest on the slopes of the Alarka Mountains. It is a small, fast stream flowing over ledges under low-hanging branches. It might carry through a backyard and seconds later through impenetrable laurel thickets that completely enclose the paddler.

On one trip a copperhead dropped into the bow of a canoe passing downstream, so the heavy foliage also bears watching. This is the only hitchhiking snake the authors have observed or heard of, so don’t let it discourage what can be a most delightful trip.

MAPS: Alarka, Bryson City (USGS); Swain (County)

length: 4.5 mi.

time: 2 hrs.

gauge: Visual

level: 2.5 ft.

permits: No

gradient: 44

scenery: A–C

CR 1140 BRIDGE TO OLD CR 1309 BRIDGE

DESCRIPTION: The narrow passages and low overhanging branches can present problems. There are two ledges that should be scouted. They are easily recognized. As with all small streams of this nature, watch for strainers. For those into running waterfalls, there are two located in the 3 or so miles before you reach the backwaters of Lake Fontana. The first, a 12-footer, is about 200 yards below the recommended takeout. The banks are extremely steep, making it very difficult to carry. At a level approaching 3 feet, one may well be committed to run it without the option of scouting. If so, enter left of center, moving to the right immediately, then stay right. The fall is located at the rear of a private home, so do not trespass to scout. J. Johnson Falls, an 8-footer, is 1.5 miles below the CR 1307 bridge. It can be scouted on river left.

SHUTTLE: From Bryson City, drive south on US 19 to CR 1140 and turn left (southeast) onto the first bridge crossing the creek west of the community of Alarka. Return to US 19 and turn left; then drive 0.1 miles and turn right (northwest) on CR 1309 to the old CR 1309 bridge and take out.

GAUGE: The USGS gauge is below the CR 1307 bridge (0.8 miles below the takeout). The minimum for a solo run is a reading of 2.5. The creek can be run in later winter, spring, and early summer except after an unusually dry spring.

WHITEOAK CREEK

Whiteoak Creek is born high in the Nantahala National Forest between Split Whiteoak Ridge and Rocky Bald Ridge, a few miles west of Nantahala Lake. From its origin it tumbles steeply for a few miles, slows (somewhat) through a short valley, then picks up steam once more before joining the Nantahala. This last section is described below. Because of its small watershed, this run is available only after a long, heavy rainfall.

MAPS: Topton, Hewitt (USGS); Macon (County)

length: 2.4 mi.

time: 1.5 hrs.

gauge: Visual

level: n/a

permits: No

gradient: 216

scenery: A

WHITEOAK DAM ON CR 1310 TO JUST ABOVE CONFLUENCE WITH NANTAHALA RIVER

DESCRIPTION: You’d better be strapped in tightly and extremely focused before slipping out of the put-in eddy, because you’re about to dance a 2.4-mile waltz with Captain Gravity. With vital statistics including a 216-foot-per-mile drop, a stream width of 30 feet, deadfalls and/or overhanging branches every 50 feet, small to nonexistent eddies, and two huge, kidney-reducing drops, Whiteoak Creek has everything the jaded hair-head could want. Actually, the gradient is very steady and generally unblocked and boat-scoutable, with a few exceptions.

You’ll often find yourself going a little faster than your comfort level would allow as you paddle into a semi-blind turn, with little hope of catching an eddy. About two-thirds of the way into the run, watch for a 10-foot drop that is best run in the center. Just downstream is a 25-foot, Class 5.2 drop consisting of four ledges practically piled on top of each other. None have particularly clean landings, though a route down the right center is barely feasible. This is serious full-contact boating. Hospital air. Scout or carry on the right. Below here the river resumes its steady downhill gradient for about 0.5 miles. The last drop above the confluence with the Nantahala is 28 feet of mega-gnarl that we’ll call Mean Mistreater. Make sure to take out at least 50 yards above this, as there isn’t much of an eddy to depend on closer to it. Then tiptoe carefully around and put in for a sane run down the Cascades, if you’ve got the energy. Mean Mistreater has been run, but not by people who put their skirts on like you and I do.

SHUTTLE: From Nantahala Outdoor Center, take US 19/74 south to CR 1310. Take a left onto CR 1310 and go 6.6 miles to Whiteoak Dam on the right. Take out just above the confluence with the Nantahala River on CR 1310.

GAUGE: None. Assuming a normal dam release, a level of 4.5 feet on the Nantahala River gauge may be a good indicator of enough water.

NANTAHALA RIVER

The Nantahala heads up just inside the edge of Nantahala National Forest before entering Nantahala Lake, reportedly the highest lake in North Carolina. From there some water is piped down the mountain to the power plant 0.25 miles above the Section C put-in. Sections A and B only run after heavy, extended rainfall, which results in dam spill-over from Nantahala Lake and heavy feeder-stream influence up high. The piped water meets the natural flow just above Section C, one of the most popular whitewater runs in the country. The water temperature on this stretch is generally 45° F due to the diverted water being pulled from the bottom of the lake. While Section A is recommended only for experts, Section B is challenging for high-intermediate and advanced boaters. Section C is suitable for intermediate-level paddlers and ends just above the Class V Wesser Falls. Below is Lake Fontana. Nantahala, meaning “land of the noonday sun,” was the name given to it by the Cherokee Indians because the deep gorge shuts out the sun for most of each day.

The cold water can create an unusual phenomenon on a very warm day. A fog rises about 3 feet above the water, sometimes cutting visibility down to a few feet. There is continuous whitewater from Patton’s Pool to the takeout below Nantahala Falls. A bailer—make that a big bailer—is a necessity for the canoeist running the Nantahala.

Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC) is located at the takeout below Nantahala Falls, and they conduct paddling clinics and raft trips down the river beginning in the spring and continuing into the fall. This is an excellent way for the uninitiated to try the river for the first time. NOC also has restaurants, stores, and motel accommodations. For those who wish to camp, Lost Mine Campground, which is privately owned, is located on CR 1103 only 1 mile from Wesser.

MAPS: Topton, Hewitt, Wesser (USGS); Macon, Swain (County)

length: 1 mi.

time: 1.5 hrs.

gauge: Visual

level: 4.2 ft.

permits: No

gradient: 210

scenery: A

CR 1310 (GRAVEL ROAD TURNOUT 4.2 MILES ABOVE FOREST SERVICE PUT-IN) TO FIRST BRIDGE DOWNSTREAM ON CR 1310

DESCRIPTION: This section, known to the local boaters as the Cascades, is user-friendly only for confident experts. Though not in the top echelon of hard-water runs, this 1-mile stretch will test anyone’s skills. After a brief 0.3-mile warmup, you come to the first Class V rapid. Horns of Gods is a two-stage drop of 16 feet. The upper drop has one obvious slot while the second ledge has a bit more margin for error. A short way downstream is the largest, most difficult rapid on this run. Big Kahunah has a total drop of 22 feet. The line is down the right, blasting off the 9-foot ledge to finish. Almost immediately downstream is Chinese Feet, the last major rapid. Chinese Feet (the name has to be blotter influenced) is best run by hammering into the eddy on the left at the top and then running the 8-foot slot to the left of the boulder that splits the river. From here to the bridge, there is a lot of interesting, though less significant, whitewater. The run can only be done after extended rainfall and generally has a window of two days at best. The road parallels the river on this section allowing for easy scouting, portaging, and aborted trips.

SHUTTLE: From Nantahala Outdoor Center, take US 19/74 south to CR 1310. Take a left onto CR 1310 and go 4.2 miles to a small dirt road on the right where you can park. Take out at the first bridge downstream.

GAUGE: The USGS gauge located just upstream of Ferebee Park on Section C should read 4.2 at a minimum. This assumes a normal release of 3.2 feet from the power plant. See the gauge for Section C below.

length: 3.2 mi.

time: 2.5 hrs.

gauge: Phone

level: n/a

permits: No

gradient: 100

scenery: A

CR 1310 BRIDGE TO FOREST SERVICE PUT-IN FOR STANDARD (SECTION C) RUN

DESCRIPTION: This section is solid, continuous, boat-scoutable Class III water. There are no major difficulties for the boater who can handle those conditions. The road, as on Section A, follows the river pretty closely.

SHUTTLE: From Nantahala Outdoor Center, take US 19/74 south to CR 1310. Take a left onto CR 1310 and go to the fifth bridge across the river. Take out at the Forest Service access area at the intersection of CR 1310 and US 19.

GAUGE: See Section A.

length: 8 mi.

time: 2.5 hrs.

gauge: Phone

level: n/a

permits: Yes

gradient: 33

scenery: A–B

POWER PLANT TO WESSER

DESCRIPTION: Below the put-in at the forks, Patton’s Run begins. The rapid is named after Charlie Patton of Brevard, North Carolina. He was an avid paddler of the Nantahala despite the fact that he had practically no use of one arm. He died after a trip down this, his most beloved river.

Patton’s Run is a long Class III, requiring the paddler to stay to the inside of the bend. This is heavy, fast water. It, as well as most of the river, can be scouted from US 19, which follows the river very closely throughout the run. Scout this one from the pulloff on the highway before launching.

The river continues along its fast course with little letup for the next 7.5 miles.

Nantahala Falls, which is about 400 yards above Nantahala Outdoor Center, is a Class III, which at higher levels easily becomes a Class IV. There is a short quiet pool above it where one can pull over easily—either to scout the falls or to pull out. Look for the concrete apron on the right with a well-marked path. The entrance and approach to the falls is rather difficult and can put a lot of water in the boat before one hits the falls. Be sure to empty the boat before attempting to run. The entrance is generally where the novice or low-intermediate-skilled paddler gets in trouble, only to be finished off in the falls.

The falls consist of two ledges. The top one doesn’t extend all the way across the river, and the passage is just on the left end of it. The paddler must then cut back hard to the right to catch the tongue on the lower drop. With higher water the upper ledge can be run straight through on the right, thereby lining you up for the tongue below. This is about 3 feet off the large boulder on the right.

In the event one swamps or dumps in the falls, get control of the craft immediately. Wesser Falls, which is 0.25 miles downstream, will only spew out little pieces.

SHUTTLE: Go north on US 19 from Wesser and NOC to Macon CR 1310 on the left; turn left into the National Forest Service (NFS) access area. Take out just above the NOC store.

GAUGE: This section can be run only when the power plant is operating, which is generally the case during the week and more often than not on weekends. Phone (866) 332-5253 to determine whether or not the plant is in operation (see “Explanation” section in Introduction).

SNOWBIRD CREEK

Snowbird Creek has its origin high in the Unicoi Mountains, and within Nantahala National Forest, which ensures excellent water quality. The Snowbird Mountains form the southern rim of the gorge. The upper portion of the creek is very remote and flows through three sections of falls named Upper, Middle, and Big, all of which are well upstream of the sections described. The river becomes less remote as Snowbird winds its way to its inundation at Santeetlah Lake. The creek is only runnable after heavy rainfall and has at best a two-day window.

MAPS: Santeetlah Creek, Robbinsville (USGS); Graham (County)

length: 2.8 mi.

time: 1.5 hrs.

gauge: Visual

level: n/a

permits: No

gradient: 143

scenery: A

JUNCTION TO FIRST BRIDGE DOWNSTREAM

DESCRIPTION: This section of Snowbird Creek is extremely tight and technical, but there are no major drops. Extreme hazards exist if the water is very high (read Class V screamer) and/or you are any less than an expert boater. This creek has more moves than a downtown street hustler. Be aware of several boulder and log strainers. Creek Meister Jim Holcombe has carried in and run as high as 3 miles above Junction, where it is steeper. You may want to consider this ageless Bob Dylan lyric before following suit: “How far do you want to go? Not too far, but just enough so’s we can say we been there.”

SHUTTLE: From Robbinsville, drive north on US 129 and turn left onto CR 1116. At the next intersection, turn right onto CR 1127. Turn left at CR 1115 and continue to CR 1120. Go right on CR 1120 to the dead end. This is known as Junction. Take out at the first bridge over the creek downstream of Junction.

GAUGE: None. This is runnable only after extended rainfall.

length: 8.5 mi.

time: 3 hrs.

gauge: Visual

level: n/a

permits: No

gradient: 42

scenery: A–B

FIRST BRIDGE DOWNSTREAM OF JUNCTION TO CR 1127 BRIDGE

DESCRIPTION: There are no difficulties. Watch out for the 3-foot lowhead dam on the lower part of this section.

SHUTTLE: See Section A for the put-in. The takeout is located at the first bridge over the creek on CR 1127, just past CR 1116.

GAUGE: None. This is runnable only after extended rainfall.

CHEOAH RIVER

The Cheoah River is normally a dry streambed that runs from Santeetlah Dam to the Little Tennessee River, It enters the Little Tennessee within spitting distance of the Cheoah Dam. The TVA pipes water from Santeetlah Lake into the Little Tennessee/Lake Cheoah inundation for the obvious reasons, leaving the resultant dry stream-bed. The Cheoah below Santeetlah Lake is just west of the Cheoah Mountains in southwestern North Carolina. The river generally runs only after extended rainfall. If the lake is spilling over the dam, there may be more water on the last 2 miles than most paddlers want. As of September 2005, there will be water releases to allow for 16 to 18 days of boatable flows. Most of the run can be seen from US 129 north of Robbinsville.

MAPS: Tapoco (NC/TN), Fontana Dam (USGS); Graham (County)

length: 9.2 mi.

time: 4.5 hrs.

gauge: Visual

level: 4 ft.

permits: No

gradient: 70

scenery: A

SANTEETLAH DAM TO US 129 BRIDGE (JUST BELOW CHEOAH DAM)

DESCRIPTION: The first 7 miles of this run are primarily Class II–III. The water here is flowing over small-to-moderate boulder fields and through shrubs and small trees, as the riverbed is normally dry. There is one 4-foot ledge just downstream of the overhead pipe carrying water to Lake Cheoah. The more enjoyable run for advanced boaters is to put in 3 miles above the takeout. This section picks up volume (because several creeks enter) and gradient quickly. The action here is more continuous, with only a few flat stretches. The boulders are larger and the view is often blocked. At moderate levels, everything can be boat-scouted, with the exception of one 10-foot drop, best run on the far right. The last 2 miles drops at a rate of 100 feet per mile. At higher levels (water spilling over the dam), the extra push would make for some Class V drops.

SHUTTLE: There are any number of places to put in on this run, as US 129 follows the river for most of its length. For those wanting to do the entire run, take US 129 north of Robbinsville to the Cheoah Point Recreation Area and scramble down to the base of the dam. To take out, follow US 129 north of Robbinsville to the bridge over the Little Tennessee River (just downstream of the Cheoah Dam).

GAUGE: The USGS gauge is near Bearpen Gap on the bridge for the put in of the lower section. The minumum level for a run is 4 feet.

SANTEETLAH CREEK

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