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Diving in Malaysia

Where Rainforest Meets Reef

Up to the late 1980s, those adventurous travelers who made their way to Malaysia were rewarded with a rich culture and a lifestyle that had changed little over the centuries. Occasionally, they snorkeled the island coral reefs and even more occasionally dived the offshore waters. The attractions that the country advertised overseas were, however, largely on terra firma. Much of that has changed in recent times and scuba professionals have set up operations in a number of places in the country offering a good variety of services and dive options. With the help of some individuals in the private sector, the tourism arm of the government has made a conscious effort to attract overseas visitors to Malaysia’s marine attractions, with some success.

Malaysia lies entirely within the tropics and is divided into two main geographical areas. Peninsular Malaysia joins, on its northern boundary, Thailand, and on its southern shore the Republic of Singapore through a causeway linking the two countries. Some 650 km away, on the huge island of Borneo across the South China Sea, lie two more Malaysian states, the vast states of Sabah and Sarawak, separated by the independently ruled Sultanate of Brunei. The two states on Borneo complete the 13 states of Malaysia, ruled under a federal system from Kuala Lumpur on the Malay Peninsula.

Since the 1990s, like many of its Asian neighbors, Malaysia has made tremendous economic progress resulting in a large growth in population and a huge increase in urban development on both a commercial and domestic level.

A hard coral reef top around Sipadan Island, Sabah, where you will find an excellent selection of dive spots.

Located some 25 minutes north of Sipadan Island, Sipadan Water Village Resort in Mabul offers macro diving around Mabul and the Kapalai Islands and safaris to Sipadan Island.

The capital, Kuala Lumpur, has expanded both laterally and skyward, while Johor Bahru, the country’s second largest town and Singapore’s nearest neighbor, has similarly grown in size and population. Shopping malls, office buildings and international class hotels now decorate these skylines that once carried a silhouette of palm trees and thatched roofs.

Malaysia has two distinctive seasons, dividing the country climatically, though the temperatures at sea level do not vary radically with either season. You can expect a high that rarely exceeds 31° C on the coast, and a low that rarely drops below 22° C. Of course, in the highland areas temperatures are quite different. While the northeast monsoon lashes the eastern shores, dumping heavy rain from November to late February, the western parts of the country—and that includes the dive sites around Langkawi—enjoy drier, sunny tropical weather. Conversely, when the southwest monsoon picks up from May to October, it is time for the east coast dive sites, and those in Borneo, to enjoy sunny dry days—while the western shores get their torrential downpours.

Of the estimated 30 million inhabitants in the 13 states comprising Malaysia, 7 percent are ethnically Indian, 22 percent are of Chinese origin while the majority, approximately 60 percent, are Malays and aborigines. A number of minority groups make up the remainder.

The Malays, a Muslim population, have always been fishermen though perhaps not sailors. They know their coastal waters and have fished them for centuries. Unfortunately, with a growing population to feed, an active tourism industry and a worldwide interest in tropical fish for aquaria, their fishing techniques became more radical in the 1960s and 1970s. Dynamite and cyanide might bring more fish into their nets, but it also killed and maimed many more and did irreparable damage to the country’s coral reefs.

CREATION OF MARINE PARKS

In the mid-1970s, Sabah gazetted one of the first marine parks in the country, the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. Then, in the 1980s, answering a call from concerned environmentalists and divers, four further marine reserves were gazetted to protect the fauna and flora off Peninsular Malaysia’s coasts. These included Pulau Payar in Kedah and the three areas off the east coast of Malaysia. These last three marine parks together cover thousands of square kilometers of water and embrace some of the most picturesque islands and coral reefs anywhere, among them Redang, Tenggol, Kapas, Rawa, Tioman and Aur. It was no accident that Pulau Tioman was chosen as one of the sites for filming part of the movie South Pacific, an island that breathed the ingredients of a tropical paradise.

All of the east coast islands are reefed with coral and host a marine ecology that enthralls snorkelers and provides plenty of interest for divers. In addition, the outer islands are sufficiently far away from the effects of the mainland and deep enough into the South China Sea to boast a variety of large pelagics, although in recent years their numbers have been dropping.

These islands and the shores of the east coast generally are also, interestingly, one of the main breeding grounds for leatherback, green and hawksbill turtles. Traditionally, turtle eggs have been collected in Malaysia as they are believed, in some instances, to have aphrodisiacal qualities. This, and the killing of turtles for their flesh, has led to a huge decline in numbers. In an effort to conserve these harmless creatures, wardens and volunteers search nightly during the summer laying season for nests containing turtle eggs, incubating them in the safety of government hatcheries and releasing the young turtles into the sea. Similar schemes to ensure turtle survival operate on the three islands comprising Turtle Island Park off Sandakan, around the tiny isle of Sipadan, Sabah, and on Pulau Besar, near Melaka, off the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia.

Hawksbill turtles are commonly seen resting on the reefs of eastern Borneo.

If you see a cloud of juvenile fish or small cardinalfish like this one, look closely as there could be a frogfish lurking somewhere on the outcrop.

LOCATING MALAYSIA’S CORAL REEFS

On Peninsular Malaysia’s east coast, the best coral reefs are to be found in the nine islands that comprise Pulau Redang which, until the boom in tourism, were only inhabited by fisher folk. Redang’s natural beauty inevitably caught the eye of developers who created a golf course on the island and a hotel with scuba diving facilities. Nowadays, there is a choice of places to stay and dive. Fine corals, too, are to be found at fairly shallow depths around the two Perhentian islands and at Lang Tengah.

To the south, Pulau Tenggol has good coral formations in excellent condition and the only real wall diving in Peninsular Malaysia, while Kapas, with its exquisite white sandy beaches, offers shallow and pretty coral reefs.

Tioman, despite its beauty, is not the best place for corals. Overfishing, dynamite fishing and human influence have done much to destroy the nearby corals. Offshore and on submerged reefs the conditions are better. But because it is served by a small airport with daily flights to and from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore, and excellent sea connections, Tioman is a very popular resort for holidaymakers and divers, particularly over weekends. In the southern waters of the east coast lies the small island of Aur, which boasts good corals and some fine diving. Because of its proximity to Singapore, Aur also attracts plenty of weekend divers from the republic.

Nazri’s Beach on idyllic Tioman Island.

Although the formation of marine parks has helped limit the damage caused by illegal fishing, it can do nothing to prevent the run-off from the peninsula itself (deforestation has not been kind to the rivers and offshore waters), which has had disastrous effects on the mangrove swamps as well as inshore corals.

Hammerhead shark sightings are the number one attraction in Layan-Layang.

A green turtle hatchling reaches the surf, only to face many predators. The best place in Malaysia for sea turtle watchers is Sipadan Island.

The best areas for coral on the west side of Peninsular Malaysia are around the three islands that form the Pulau Payar Marine Park just south of Langkawi. Even though the visibility is not as good as that on the east coast of the peninsula, divers report that there is good coral and marine life.

In Borneo, the situation is far better. With the gazetting of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, the reefs around the five small islands off Kota Kinabalu’s shore have benefited enormously from the park’s protection over recent decades. Visibility is not always as clear as it might be, but the shallow reefs are a major attraction to holidaymakers in the area. Snorkeling and diving facilities are widely available to visitors.

But the best reefs lie, without a doubt, at Sipadan, a small mushroom-shaped island rising from the ocean floor situated some 25 km off the coast from Tawau. The reefs are in excellent condition, with a rating amongst the best in Asia, and when the waters are not filled with plankton the visibility can be good. Sharks are common as are large schools of fish. Dive permits (with limited availability) are required for diving around Sipadan and so booking in advance is essential.

The more remotely positioned Layang-Layang, some 240 km north of Kota Kinabalu, offers reefs that are in fine condition and provide divers with some fabulous encounters not only with reef life but with large pelagics.

MALAYSIAN LIVEABOARDS

For those who are not seeking a shore-based experience in Malaysia, divers have found that liveaboard dive boats offer an excellent alternative to land-based diving. Divers can also enjoy Sipadan and the Kunak group of islands north of Sipadan from the comfort of a liveaboard dive boat. Lastly, many dive trips to Malaysia, in particular those to the islands off the east coast, can also be organized from neighboring Singapore.

—Fiona Nichols/Sarah Ann Wormald

Sipadan

Memorable Diving from an Oceanic Isle East of Borneo

Access Boat times vary from Mabul, Kapalai and Semporna

Current Variable, 10–22 meters

Reef type Light, occasionally more

Highlights Generally good variety

Visibility Slopes and walls, cave

Coral Generally good numbers of big fish at best sites

Fish Hammerheads; Turtle Cave; turtles galore

The diving is always good at Sipadan and occasionally it can be superb. Good-sized pelagics and large schools of fish generally represent Sipadan’s main attraction to divers. While nothing is guaranteed, it’s not unusual for dives around Sipadan to be highlighted by one or more of the following: hammerhead and leopard shark sightings, barracudas in shoals of several hundred, a rumbling herd of many bumphead parrotfish, a manta or two, countless turtles and perhaps half a dozen white tip sharks.

Reef fish are present in fair numbers and variety, and perhaps most impressive are the quantities of medium-sized fish—between 25 and 40 cm—in relatively shallow waters. This is especially the case for groups of up to a dozen harlequin sweetlips, but also snappers, emperorfish, triggerfish, long fin batfish and a couple of species of unicornfish.

Macro lens wielders and those with acute powers of observation could spot an unusual crinoid, shrimp and tiny fish combination, all matching the host’s coloration, or a golden spotted shrimp on a very flattened carpet anemone. Some divers have found a patch of relatively tame spotted garden eels, elsewhere requiring the patience of Job to photograph outside of their burrow. Sharp eyes can also reveal a pink sailfin leaffish or a scorpionfish and nudibranchs.

It has been said that the reefs of Sipadan are less colorful than elsewhere in Southeast Asia. This is possibly due to the restricted visibility in the shallows (often of pea-soup quality) but also to far less aggregations of fairy basslets and other small fry. However, sponges are there in various shapes, especially enormous barrel sponges.

We find the dive spots live up to their names: White Tip Avenue, Turtle Patch, Staghorn Crest, Lobster Lair and Hanging Gardens (for soft corals).

Since 2005, when Sabah National Parks made huge efforts to protect the area, fish numbers have remained relatively stable and large numbers of fish are seen on most dives around Sipadan. There are no longer resorts based on the island. Divers must either stay at neighboring Mabul or the Kapalai Islands which are home to most of the upmarket dive resorts that offer trips to the park. For those on a tighter budget, accommodation is available in the cheaper area of Semporna and day boats also leave the harbor from there for day dive trips to Sipadan.

These sweetlips are accompanied by a swarm of tiny glassfish.

Diving in the Sipadan area is strictly regulated and operated on a permit basis. Only 120 divers per day are allowed to the island and dives must take place between 6am and 4pm. No night diving is permitted. Due to the limited number of permits available per day, booking in advance is essential. Permits are sold to operators who then, in turn, allocate them to guests. It is not recommended to arrive in the area without a prior booking. It may be that if you can wait around for a few days an operator may be able to free up a pass for you but it could take longer. In peak season, it may not be possible at all.

South Point On one trip we saw a school of 50 hammerhead sharks at South Point, a solid wall of barracudas stretching over 10 meters high, almost motionless in the current and relatively undisturbed by the gazes of fellow divers, and several dozen bumphead parrotfish in a herd, lazing just under the surface in dappled sunlight. These highlights require a touch of luck. But on every one of our 18 dives we saw green turtles—up to a dozen in a single dive—along with reef white tip sharks and always a fair variety of reef fishes.

Water bungalow-style accommodation gives guests direct access to the water for snorkeling at any time and certainly makes it easy to check the tides!

Barracuda Point There is one good reason to dive this spot—barracuda. Time after time they turn up in their hundreds, a shoal that turns the water into a glinting wall of fish. There are also sharks accompanying almost every dive, along with a shoal of bumphead parrotfish.

Hanging Gardens Coral lovers will be in awe at this beautiful dive spot. The soft corals hang like dripping wax from candles in a profusion of colors that can hardly be matched elsewhere. We have rarely had good visibility here (diving in the morning without sunlight is not the best) but the beauty of the sights compensates.

Schooling anthias are often found around hard coral heads in Sipadan.

Turtle Cave is one of Sipadan’s most famed sites.

Turtles While you tend to become blasé about green turtles, this is the one guaranteed highlight on Sipadan. It is claimed that these waters have the largest turtle population found anywhere. Just swimming close to one is thrilling. Or watching them tearing and chewing a chunk of soft coral. And almost nothing disturbs a mating pair, not even other males climbing on top hoping to get in on the action.

TURTLE FACTS

A large population of green turtles (Chelonia mydas) call Sipadan home. Their name comes not so much from their overall color, an olive brown, as from their greenish fat. We saw some of these turtles on every dive, with an occasional individual close to the species’ maximum size (140 kg) and a carapace length of over 1 meter. Turtles are one of the main reasons for Sipadan’s popularity.

The animals are almost exclusively vegetarian, feeding on sea grasses, algae, occasionally sponges and soft corals. While they are protected on Sipadan, elsewhere green turtles are killed for their meat, hide and oil. Turtles take their time copulating, and because of this some believe the eggs can increase male potency, especially if the first three of any batch are eaten raw. The slow rate at which turtles mature combined with low infant survival rates and pressures from illegal egg hunting and poaching have led to a general worldwide decline in their numbers.

Schooling fish are another reason for diving Sipadan. Barracuda and South Point are particularly good in this respect and we sometimes drifted down through four good-sized schools at the start of the dive. Anemones and their guest fish can be spotted on almost every dive, along with hefty sized solitary barracuda (usually in the shallows) and an occasional imperturbable crocodilefish, alias long-snout flathead. Moorish idols, often in pairs, usually accompany every dive.

DIVING BASICS

Sipadan diving is not for everyone. Currents are often present and shift during the course of a dive. At Barracuda Point, in particular, there is often 2 knots of current heading away from the reef and downward. There are relatively easy dive spots, but we found the most interesting were also the ones with the strongest current: Barracuda and South Point.

Sipadan Island lies not far but in splendid isolation from the continental shelf. While it is only some 12 km to Mabul Island on the edge of the shallow Sigitan reefs, the ocean plunges to almost 1,000 meters before rising abruptly.

The 15-hectare island, with its lush vegetation and white sand beaches, is but the tip of a marine outcrop. To walk the surrounding beach would take around 30 minutes, and there is much nature to observe along the shoreline.

The pier at Pulau Sipadan where most tourists arrive.

On the north east coast, where the reef top extends less than 10 meters from the shore, the turquoise waters abruptly turn dark blue at the edge of a vertical wall. Elsewhere, the shallow reef extends as an irregular fringe, over 500 meters off South Point. A dozen or so dive spots dot the edge of the reef, all above vertical walls.

The discovery of Sipadan only goes back to 1984. While on a commercial job on a nearby grounded ship, Borneo Divers checked out the island and liked very much what they saw. After obtaining all the necessary permits, the company started bringing clients to the island in 1985. Divers were initially put up in tents until a small resort was constructed. Following this, two more resorts opened up in the same area. However, the three resorts were only open until 2005 when Sabah Parks recognized the need to protect and conserve an area of such outstanding natural beauty. Since 2005, the resorts have been closed and staying on the island is not permitted, and diving is restricted in order to allow the area to continue to flourish.

Mabul Island has crystal clear waters surrounding its picturesque pier.

Prior to 2005, the island received a boost at international level when Jacques Cousteau spent several weeks there to shoot his film, Ghost of the Sea Turtles. While Cousteau claimed the discovery of Turtle Cave, he and his team were allegedly taken there by Borneo Divers, who had already surveyed the site.

MABUL AND KAPALAI

If you are staying in either Mabul or Kapalai, the highlight of your trip will be diving around Sipadan Island. However, due to the permit system, you should not expect to be doing so every day. If you purchase a diving package for less than a week it may be that only one day of this is on Sipadan (a day trip to Sipadan usually includes 3–4 dives, depending on the operator). Check when booking how many Sipadan days versus non-Sipadan days are included in your package.

Most Mabul and Kapalai operators will strongly suggest that you first dive the sites around the island on which you are based. This gives the operator the opportunity to access your skills prior to venturing over to Sipadan, which is renowned for having currents.

Mabul offers some fantastic muck diving with critters galore and plenty of macro life ranging from blue ringed octopus, ghost pipefish and seahorses to a range of nudibranchs. Like Sipadan, Mabul also has a healthy turtle population and eagle rays are also known to pass through the area.

Kapalai offers relatively easy diving and a range of sloping sandy reefs that are home to numerous creatures and critters, including pipefish, stonefish, crocodilefish, cuttlefish, mandarinfish, frogfish, ribbon eels and nudibranchs.

—Kal Muller/Sarah Ann Wormald

Layang-Layang and Kota Kinabalu

Diving off Sabah’s Northwestern Coast

Access 5–15 minutes by boat

Current Good, 10–25 meters

Reef type Light to moderate

Highlights Excellent condition

Visibility Walls and reef crests

Coral Good numbers and variety of big pelagics

Fish Hammerhead sharks, dog tooth tuna, mantas, turtles

Two world-class possibilities exist for diving from the East Malaysian state of Sabah on the island of Borneo. About 300 km northwest of Kota Kinabalu (KK), in the midst of the South China Sea, lies the Layang-Layang Atoll, which translates literally as “Swallows Reef”, part of the group of atolls that make up the Borneo Banks. Layang Layang Island Resort is the only diving operator and hotel accommodation available, so booking well in advance is highly recommended.

The majority of the atoll here lies underwater with the exception of rocks that are exposed at low tide. The reefs drop in walls on all sides to depths of up to 2,000 meters. There are some excellent dives at all depths with healthy corals and good diversity. Without a doubt, though, the main reason for visiting Layang-Layang is the opportunity to see schools of scalloped hammerheads.

A GATHERING OF PELAGICS

Layang-Layang’s diving season is from March until September. It is, above all, famous for schooling hammerhead sharks, and they are there in abundance until July, but as the water warms up the sharks go deeper. The best diving is around the northeastern end of the atoll, followed closely by the southwestern end.

The eastern point of the atoll is called Dogtooth Lair, and in addition to the tuna that the site is named after, this seems to be the spot for hammerheads. Normally swimming at depths of 40 meters or more, we once encountered a school of sharks in the 10-meter-deep waters of the coral gardens. Schools of barracuda populate the reef and wall. A huge school of jackfish hang out at 10–15 meters and manta rays are also frequent visitors here.

The Gorgonian Forest is a continuation of the wall at Dogtooth Lair, so it is not uncommon to see schooling hammer-heads on this dive either. But this site is famous for its sea fans. From 20 meters down, the wall is covered in multicolored sea fans (gorgonians) of impressive size—great for wide-angle photography.

Navigator’s Lane, next along the wall, is where sea fans give way to an impressive display of soft corals. The site was visited by hammerheads during our dives, and invariably there were grey and white tip sharks circling around off the wall. Tuna cruise up and down the drop-off in search of any unwary reef fish among the schools along the wall.

At the southwestern end of the atoll is a site called D-Wall, a wall so impressive because it is so sheer and so deep. Even at 50 meters there seems to be no end to its vertical drop. The wall is festooned with colorful soft corals that entice the diver deeper. On one dive, while photographing soft corals at some 35 meters, a school of 40 hammerheads swam by. Although not sighted as often in this area, they were here! White tip sharks, tuna and clouds of reef fishes populate the wall to make a great dive site.

At the end of D-Wall is a site aptly named Shark Cave, for at 20–25 meters there is a deep cave extending under the reef where a group of white tips can often be found sleeping. Here we found 10 sharks piled up like logs on the left side of the cave and a school of about 50 snappers hanging around the entrance on the right side of the cave. Down current, the reef is flatter with rolling terrain. This area is generally swept by currents, and consequently is often favored by large fishes.

Yellow snappers in Layang-Layang.

Despite their formidable teeth, pufferfish are docile.

TUNKU ABDUL RAHMAN PARK

If sharks are not your idea of fun diving, Kota Kinabalu, capital of Sabah, has an alternative. Twenty minutes by boat from the center of KK lie five islands that make up the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, offering secluded beaches and reefs just offshore, which are perfect for snorkeling and diving.

Mid Reef near Manukan Island is a good site. The reef is generally round and slopes off on all sides from 5 to 20 meters. The top of the reef has good hard corals. Dropping down to 15–29 meters, you encounter a garden of black coral trees. A small school of yellow fin barracuda are frequently present on most dives and juvenile leopard sharks can often be seen here on night dives.

Clement Reef, closer to Sapi Island, is also a sloping reef that ranges from 12 to 18 meters, with the exception of a small finger that juts out from the reef and reaches 25 meters in depth. This finger is covered with sea fans, sponges and soft coral, attracting schools of snappers and abundant reef fish. In February and March, whale sharks migrate through the area and are sometimes seen.

Mamutik Island is home to the Borneo Divers dive center, which offers dive trips and PADI courses from introductory to instructor levels.

—Bob Bowdey/Sarah Ann Wormald

Terengganu

The Best Diving in Peninsular Malaysia

Access By bumboat from coastal towns and from island resorts

Current Fair, 8–20 meters

Reef type Usually negligible to light

Highlights Good condition, fine variety in most places

Visibility Usually coral gardens

Coral Schools, reef fish, pelagics

Fish Occasional whale shark and manta ray sightings; wall at Tenggol

From its northern borders near the small coastal town of Kuala Besut to the sandy shores of Kemaman in the south, the Malaysian east coast state of Terengganu boasts 225 km of nearly uninterrupted coastline and a score or so offshore islands, many offering excellent coral reefs that form part of a marine park.

The state of Terengganu is a traditional Muslim one with a pretty capital town, Kuala Terengganu, at the mouth of the river. Fishing, palm oil and agriculture were traditionally the mainstay of the economy. When oil was discovered offshore, the fortunes of this state changed radically, and it became one of the wealthiest in the federation. Today, tourism now plays a major role in the state’s economy for its beaches and offshore islands have been discovered by sun lovers and divers. Divers flock to the Perhentian Islands (Besar and Kecil) for the beaches and reefs. Redang Island also offers good diving opportunities and some more upmarket accommodation.

Kuala Terengganu airport (Sultan Mahmud) has a few daily flights from Kuala Lumpur and from there it is around a 2–3 hour drive to Kuala Besut, the main entry point to the Perhentian Islands. However, transit through Kota Bharu in Kelantan offers better connections to Kuala Besut by both train and air. If you are planning to stay on Redang Island, then Merang is the main ferry point.

Nemanthus annamensis, more commonly known as the gorgonian wrapper or whip coral anemone, on a gorgonian host.

PERHENTIAN ISLANDS

The two islands of Perhentian lie some 23 km offshore from Terengganu and are accessible by ferry from Kuala Besut. Perhentian Kecil (the smaller island) has a range of accommodation and dive centers for every budget and is a popular choice with young backpackers. Perhentian Besar, with its beautiful white sandy beaches, also has numerous places to stay and dive operators but is generally a little more upmarket.

Perhentian Island is accessible by ferry and has accommodation and dive centers for every budget.

In the dry season (May to September), diving from Perhentian can be excellent, and the waters on the South China Sea side of the island are quite clear. The reefs are generally fairly shallow, although they extend deeper on the northern sides of the islands. There are some hard corals, though not that many, plenty of beautiful soft corals and some impressive gorgonians on the outer reefs.

On a good dive you can expect to come across schools of trevallies, jacks, glass-eyes and rainbow runners. There are some black tip reef sharks in the area as well as a good population of green turtles. Visibility here averages 12 meters, though it can fall. Among the pelagics often encountered around the Susu Dara group of isles just northwest of Perhentian—probably the best dive location—are several species of sharks, but barracudas and large groupers are also common.

LANG TENGAH

Some 15 km south of Perhentian lies the 120 ha island of Pulau Lang Tengah, another good spot for diving. Whilst accommodation is available on the island, it is not yet as developed as the neighboring Perhentian Islands.

Because of the surrounding deep waters and its isolation, Lang Tengah has good corals, both hard and soft, hosting a proliferation of marine life. There are a number of good dive sites in the area, including one with prolific Dendronephthya and another of table corals. On a regular 15-meter dive, you should find schools of jacks and trevallies, yellowtails and rainbow runners. Late afternoon is a particularly good time for diving and turtles. Shovelnose rays and bamboo sharks have been known to frequent the area on occasions. For macro photographers, there are some great nudibranchs and the night diving around the island offers a range of crustaceans and critters. The best time to dive here is in the dry season, from May to October.

REDANG

The premier dive spot on the east coast, Redang comprises nine islands. It is accessible from all the coastal towns mentioned earlier, with Merang Jetty being the most popular departure point. Check with your operator if transfers are included and where they depart from. Once home to a few fishing families, Redang is now one of the country’s best known tourist destinations. Its powdery white sandy beaches and excellent coral reefs are a powerful magnet, and divers who want to explore the nearby reefs and islands further afield should book for at least five days to do the area justice.

The reefs around Redang have suffered the least amount of damage over the years because of their relative distance from the mainland. Thus, the reefs offer a fine variety of both hard and soft corals that host a wealth of marine life.

Around the southeastern end of the main island there are some small offshore isles, Kerengga Kecil and Kerengga Besar, Pulau Ekor Tebu and the large rock known as Ling. The reefs here are shallow in depth and you’ll encounter a veritable forest of mushroom corals on the southwestern tip of Kerengga Besar. A huge area of finger coral, rising over 5 meters from the seabed, is a favorite dive site around Ling, while staghorn corals are also predominant. The main island has some good shallow patches of coral, ideal for snorkeling or a repeat dive, which drop to deeper levels on the east coast.

Redang Island is home to numerous friendly species of small reef fishes, notably sergeant majors, butterflyfish and silver monos.

There are several decent dive sites amongst the reefs off the northeastern part of the main island and also around Pulau Paku Besar and Pulau Paku Kecil. A bit further eastwards, Pulau Lima has deep coral reefs, while the reefs around Pulau Pinang are very shallow and suffer from the run-off from the Redang River.

In season (April to November, before the monsoons arrive), you can expect to see schools of jackfish, golden trevally, grouper, coral trout, snapper and barracuda. Macro photographers should keep their eyes open for Spanish dancers—pink, purple and orange delights. The seabed is the place to find stingrays (there are plenty), while pelagic highlights include several species of shark. Another highlight of the diving in Pulau Redang is an encounter with turtles. Huge, lumbering leatherbacks often lay their eggs on the beaches of the islands, and can also be spotted swimming offshore. It’s worth looking out for them at night, too, when they come ashore to lay their eggs in the sand. As mentioned elsewhere, turtles are a protected species in Asia and any encounter is a truly fascinating experience.

Although the diving is good in Redang throughout the summer months, it can be especially good in early November and in late April. Visibility averages 10–15 meters, occasionally to 18 meters.

KAPAS

Accessible from Kuala Dungun, the beautiful island of Kapas is better known for its white, sandy beaches than for its diving opportunities. However, it does have pretty corals in the shallows and this appeals particularly to snorkelers. The reef shelves gradually from 3 to 12 meters but it is symptomatic of the reef’s condition that you’ll find plenty of sea urchins! Look out for clownfish and their host anemones, small nudibranchs, damselfish and sergeant majors.

The yellow barred parrotfish is one of a number of parrotfish species found around Perhentian Kecil.

The Clark’s anemone is a host of clownfish, which are recognizable by their two white bands, finely outlined in iridescent blue.

TENGGOL

The island of Tenggol is situated further south from Redang and some 20 km offshore. It comprises one main island with a beautiful sandy beach of fine white sand and two small isles. On the western side of the island lies a sheltered bay.

However, the big attraction at Tenggol is wall diving, for the island has steep rocky cliffs on its eastern South China Sea side, which drop dramatically to the seabed. In addition, there are some pristine coral formations and a number of submerged rocks with excellent coral growth on them. Diving at Tenggol goes down to 48 meters, to the seabed, and divers who are more interested in fish than in corals and tunicates will find bumphead parrotfish, lizardfish, large schools of jacks and even the possibility of some white tip sharks. Occasionally, a whale shark or manta ray has been known to pass through and ghost pipe-fish are among some of the smaller fish known to make their homes here.

—Fiona Nichols/Sarah Ann Wormald

Tioman and Aur

A Playground for Divers and Holidaymakers

Access By bumboat from Tioman or liveaboard boats from Mersing and Singapore Fair, average of 9 meters; Aur averages 12 meters

Current Variable

Reef type Fair in Tioman; good in Aur

Highlights Coral gardens

Visibility Schooling fish, corals

Coral Good numbers, fair variety

Fish Beautiful beaches; corals around Aur

From the very first glimpse of its white sandy beaches, azure waters and often mist shrouded mountains, the island of Tioman exerts an almost mystical pull. Since the late 1950s, it has delighted film-goers, especially fans of South Pacific, and it continues to delight romantics today. Tioman has become renowned as a great place to holiday. Indeed, during the late April to September season, visitors arrive from Kuala Lumpur, Johor and Singapore, so it is essential to book in advance.

Tioman is not a divers’ paradise, but rather a paradise in where divers can dabble in their favorite sport. The once pristine corals show evidence in places of previous illicit dynamite fishing. The general effects of being a popular resort are also visible. Rubbish can be an issue although projects are now underway to deal with this.

In 1985, however, the waters around Pulau Tioman were designated part of a large marine park where sustainable fishing is permitted but dynamiting, cyanide poisoning and spear fishing are outlawed. Similarly, the islands off the coast of Johor—Rawa, Tinggi, Besar, Sibu and Aur—at the bottom of the peninsula were put under protection.

Tioman is known mainly for its white sand beaches although there are a number of good dive sites off shore within an hour’s ride by boat.

Although the visibility is usually in the region of 8–9 meters, it can very occasionally reach 30 meters. On an average dive, you’ll meet schools of jacks, trevally, coral trout, pufferfish, a few stingrays and a number of moray eels. The crown-of-thorns starfish, which has caused much damage to the reef in the past, seems to be less prolific nowadays. We’ve heard stories about meeting a dozen hammerheads on one dive, but such sightings are unusual. There are sharks—black tip reef sharks usually—but nurse sharks are also not uncommon.

There are numerous dive spots around Tioman, most accessed in less than an hour via converted fishing boats.

Magician Rock is the place for schooling fish to hang out but currents here can be strong so it is best suited to experienced divers. There are also plenty of large fans for the photographers. Off the east coast, Juara is a good spot to see barracudas, snappers and stingrays, and to enjoy the hard corals. There is a submerged pinnacle here that attracts plenty of fish. Off the northeast, Sri Buat is renowned for its beautiful hard corals and some exceptionally tall soft corals.

Adjacent islands with good coral include Labas and Tulai. Check out the Napoleon wrasses at Tulai Island (it has a beautiful beach, too), and look out for the schools of trevally and barracuda. There are angelfish and coral trouts for the keen eyed. Labas is also a favorite due to its rock formations, swim-throughs and passing barracudas, stingrays and reef sharks.

Tiger Reef has two huge pinnacles where there are schools of yellowtails, angelfish and snappers. Nurse sharks are often sighted here. There are also some impressive sea fans and lovely soft corals. Diving is also good on the Jubilee Shoals, but as they are further away many operators do not journey out this far or will only do so with a minimum number of divers.

Tioman offers interesting rocks and swim-throughs such as this one.

AUR

This small island, located 65 km from the Malaysian coast, was traditionally home to a small fishing community. Together with the neighboring islands of Dayang and Lang, Pulau Aur is a great favorite with divers as the distance from the mainland has ensured its corals remain in good condition while its relative remoteness contributes to a better-than-average visibility for this part of the coast. Accommodation is available on both Pulau Dayang and Aur and access is usually via the town of Mersing.

This nudibranch (Nembrotha kubaryana) is one of many colorful species found in this area.

Expect to find trevallies, sweetlips, coral trout, wrasses, plenty of parrotfish, anemones and a wide variety of nudibranchs. Night diving in the main bay is also fun. Further from the shelter of the island, currents can be strong, especially on the surface, but as a compensation there are more big fish and the possibility of larger schools.

—Fiona Nichols/Sarah Ann Wormald

Langkawi

The Marine Reserve at Pulau Payar

Access 5 minutes to upwards of 1 hour to more distant sites

Current Fair, 2–10 meters

Reef type Negligible

Highlights Best variety in Malaysia

Visibility Coral gardens, artificial reef

Coral Fair variety

Fish Ease of access; great for snorkelers

This marine park encompasses four islands, Pulau Payar, Pulau Kaca, Pulau Lembu and Pulau Segantang, and is located 30 km south of the island of Langkawi and 65 km north of Penang. The park’s pride lies in its wide variety of habitats and the largest number of coral species in the country, including the most colorful soft corals.

The Marine Park was conceived to protect the natural marine wealth, while specific zones have been marked for research and educational activities as well as for recreation.

Coral Garden At the southwestern tip of Pulau Payar, this site offers a scenic dive with multicolored soft corals, mainly Dendronephthya. The panorama is one with steep gullies and crevices that hide plenty of jacks, titan triggers, moray eels, blue ringed angelfish, lionfish, porcupinefish and many barrel sponges. Don’t expect gin-clear visibility—it’s around 10 meters usually, but can extend up to 16–20 meters.

Grouper Farm This is a reef that bottoms out at around 15 meters. It is named after the large number of groupers that dwell here. This nearby site also provides a home to mangrove snappers (Lutjanus argentinaculatus) and barracudas. Visibility, unfortunately, is usually very poor and only reaches 10 meters on a good day. However, the groupers, and the small schooling fish, are worth coming to see.

The anemone fish Amphiprion perideraion in the magnificent anemone Heteractis magnifica. The larger fish of an anemone fish pair is the female.

Sriwana Beach At the southeastern side of Pulau Payar, a shallow coral reef at a depth of between 6 and 8 meters is a great place for a snorkeler or diver to explore coral. Look out for the staghorns (Acropora nobilis, formosa and florida), brain and Montipora corals. There are also sponges, anemones with their associated anemone fish, jacks, black tipped fusiliers, groupers and Moorish idols. Keep an eye open also for young black tip sharks. The fish life here is more abundant than at the other sites nearby.

Kaca Sunken Boat Point An artificial reef has been created off the southern tip of Pulau Kaca by the sinking of confiscated fishing boats. These have proved a haven for hard corals and fish life. Japanese jacks, lionfish, mangrove snappers (Lutjanus argentimaculatus) and giant groupers are all frequently encountered, while you’ll also come across nudibranchs and a range of critters and crustaceans.

This leaf scorpionfish is a master of camouflage!

Fish feeding still occurs in parts of Malaysia, pictured here on Payar Island.

Apart from the anemonefish living in anemones, it is not unusual to find porcelain crabs as well.

Tyre Reef The steep vertical walls at Tyre Reef extend down to 20 meters before sloping down gently to a sandy bottom depth of 26 meters. Fish life is plentiful, with large shoals of barracudas, sergeant majors, red snappers, mangrove snappers, jacks and rabbitfish. Sea fans, black corals, and wire and whip corals are common in the deeper waters.

Anemone Garden Sea anemones cover the surface of most of the rocks and boulders on the northern side of the island. Helmet shells, spiny lobsters, a range of critters and moray eels are all common.

A wide range of transfer and dive boats are available around Langkawi, including speedboats such as this one.

Pulau Segantang Two rocky outcropings rise up out of the sandy bottom from around 20 meters. This site boasts some decent hard coral as well as sea fans at around 15 meters. Visibility here is usually slightly better than that around Langkawai and Pulau Payar, which makes for nice scenic diving. On good days here, nurse sharks are known to pass through as well as barracudas, and amongst the corals look out for moray eels, nudibranchs and other critters.

—Danny Lim/Sarah Ann Wormald