Читать книгу Journal of the Elder Exploring Expedition, 1891 - David Lindsay - Страница 3

FINAL REPORT.

On my arrival at Warrina I found that Mr. Leech, the second officer, had the evening before when wrestling sprained his knee.

The medical officer next morning reported that if a bed could be arranged on a camel during the march and perfect rest allowed Mr. Leech while in camp, for about three weeks, there would be no risk in taking him on, and that he did not consider the injury serious enough to necessitate Mr. Leech being left behind.

Arrangements were made for Mr. Leech's comfort on the march and in camp, and five weeks later he was able to dispense with the crutches.

The death of poor Bowden, at Cootanoorinna, a week after the expedition left Warrina, was an unfortunate loss to the expedition, as he was a man of long experience in the bush and with camels, and might have given valuable help in the troublesome times which followed.

We left Warrina on the 2nd May, 1891, were detained seven days in the vicinity of Cootanoorinna by rains, a week at Arcoellinna Well through the stupidity of the Afghans in losing seven camels.

We followed Chamber's pad and road to a few miles north-west of Chamber's Bluff, when we left it and travelled straight for the Everard Ranges, distant about thirty-six miles, which were reached on the 2nd of June.

Mount Illbillie, the highest point in the Everard Ranges, is a trigonometrical station, and the point decided upon as the starting point, from where, according to the printed instructions, we were to proceed "thence on a westerly course into the section of unexplored country marked (A) on the plan." Formation, granite with diorite dykes. The country was in good condition owing to recent rains. Water in nearly every gully.

From Illbillie we proceeded westerly, examining and fixing the position of all hills, and marked the southerly limit of the hills. Flying parties were detached at various points, as shown on the map, until we reached the province boundary, where we expected to find a range of mountains thirty miles long. At the position assigned to this range—the Blyth Range—only a group of detached hills was found, with a few rockholes in granite outcrops four miles to south and south-west.

Having left the country which had been visited by rains and entered a region so dry as to lead us to the conclusion that no rain had fallen for two or three years, we went on to the range of which Skirmish Hill forms the south-western end in the hopes of finding water, but again met with disappointment, for the country Was still drier; even the spinifex, or, more properly speaking, the porcupine, was dead and the mulga nearly so. Mr. Wells here rejoined us, and reported that the country to the south was all sandhills and sandstone ridges, with small quantities of water in rockholes. We now considered our best course was to go to Fort Mueller and Bailee Spring, form a depôt, according to our printed instructions, from which to detach parties northerly into block B to search for Gibson, and southerly into block A, exploring and searching for water. Fort Mueller being absolutely dry, I went west and found at Forrest's rockhole, and at some holes unseen by the previous explorers, a fair supply of water, while the sandhills were covered with the green waterbush (Pollechia Zeylanica). After watering the camels at a rockhole found near Borrow's Hill we moved on and formed a depôt, sending the spare camels some fifteen miles back to depasture on the waterbush.

From the depôt; (camp 33) Mr. Wells went south-west; Mr. Leech north-west into block B to look for traces of Gibson—owing to the lapse of years it was not surprising that the search proved fruitless; I and Mr. Streich rode around and through the Barrow Ranges, only finding one small rockhole. Then Dr. Elliot and I went west, visiting Barlee Spring, which was practically dry, and all the watering places discovered by Giles and Forrest to the west side of the Warburton Ranges; when, finding all the waters dried up and all the. rockholes empty and evidences of the thought having been long continued, I concluded that no water would be found at the Sutherland Ranges. 100 miles further on, and that Alexander Spring would certainly be dry also, I decided to return to the depôt. I have since learnt from Mr. W. W. Mills that in 1883 he found Alexander Spring dry.

Mr. Wells returned, reporting miserable country with only very few small rockholes. At one place, 130 miles south-west, he left 300 gallons of water in a hole. Our position was somewhat perplexing, as we had not enough water to give the camels a drink and to fill up our casks; there was none for a reasonable distance behind us. The few natives we saw were living on the rockholes, and those, with whom we got speech said no water to the south and south-west. But as a good number of natives had made towards Mount Squires from all directions, and as there were evidences of rain having fallen on that mountain during the last three months, we considered it likely that a closer search in the gullies and gorges would result in the discovery of some waters. After full consideration we decided that if we could get enough water in the neighborhood by emptying all the rockholes, to go across to Queen Victoria's Spring by way of the rockhole found by Mr. Wells.

We proceeded south to Mount Squires, having brought in the camels, which had been now three weeks without water, and after searching found abundance of water. Gave the camels a drink, sent water twenty-five miles on the intended course, gave the camels another drink, filled all our water vessels and headed for Queen Victoria's Spring on the other side of the Great Victoria desert and distant about 400 miles. My journal and map give full details of the country. No sign of minerals so far.

When we reached the rockholes found by Mr. Wells we found a mob of natives camped there and the quantity reduced to 90 galls. of very dirty water. Gave it to the camels and proceeded over a useless country of sandhills and sandstone ridges all through to Queen Victoria's Spring. The fine growth of Eucalyptus endesmioides (desert gum) extending for over 100 miles gave the country a very pleasing aspect, but there were very few stock bushes and no grass. In latitude 29° 20', 270 miles from Mount Squires, the eastern edge of good pastoral country was touched. The geologist expressed his opinion that water would be found by sinking, and he also reported "an extinct mound spring", the position of which I have shown on the map. The average height of the plains is about 1,600ft. or 1,700ft., while the mountain tops reach to a height of 2,500ft. above sea level; the lowest noted flat was 750ft. above sea level and Queen Victoria's Spring is 836ft., showing a very considerable fall.

Queen Victoria's Spring was reached on the twenty-fifth day at a distance of 393 miles from Mount Squires, and found to be dry. Our position now was somewhat critical, for the camels had been twenty-five days without water and were not only thirsty, but leg-weary. To go north back into the desert was not possible, and the only safe course to take was to make for the nearest certain water, which, after consulting the map, was found to be at Fraser Range, 125 miles distant. It was questionable whether the camels would travel another week without water. A well was sunk 15ft. deep and 60 gallons of water obtained, to which we added 40 gallons out of the casks, enabling the camels to have 2½ galls. each. When about half way to the range we passed out of spinifex and entered a good country of rich red soil, producing many good stock bushes, including saltbush and bluebush, but all extremely dry. Fine forests of high mallee and eucalypti were passed through. At twenty-nine miles we crossed a belt of country worthy the attention of prospectors.

On the thirty-fourth day we reached Fraser Range, having travelled 537 miles from Mount Squires without loss of camels or equipment. One camel died the day we reached Queen Victoria's Spring from urinic poisoning. Up to this point we had travelled 2,710 miles, of which 1,813 miles were through unexplored country.

From October 4th to the 2nd November the party was encamped at Fraser Range, during which time I went on horseback to Esperance Bay, 160 miles distant, to report progress by telegraph to the council of the Royal Geographical Society. I obtained the consent of the council to go viâ Hampton Plains, when, if no water was found there, to go west until water was found.

On the 2nd November we started again, and travelled ninety-eight miles through new country to Mount Monger, and then twenty miles to Hunt's slate well. All the country very well adapted for stock, but no surface waters, and now suffering from a long drought. The inability of our native guides to show us any water, and the camels having been seven days without water, and eating saltbush every clay, it was absolutely necessary to go west along Hunt's route to find water. When Hunt was exploring here in 1864 he sank wells, constructed dams and tanks at which to form depôts, and it was at some of those wells that I hoped to find water. All the officers saw the gravity of our position, for our camels were really looking worse than when we reached Fraser Range, and the weather was very hot. All agreed as to the necessity of again making for known water. I did not consult them on the matter, as there were only two courses to pursue—one leading on to certain destruction and loss of the whole party, and the other the course we followed, which took us to within thirty miles of Southern Cross township before sufficient water was obtained, viz., at Karoling. Unfortunately there was only a limited amount of camel food and an abundance of Gastrolobium—a dreaded poison bush, which prevented us remaining more than one day.

Karoling is about 250 miles from the edge of the unexplored country, and it was quite impossible for us to attempt to go there. The country was suffering from drought, and all our camels were in a very low and weak condition, as was clearly shown when a week later, at a suitable spot, I had to order a fortnight's rest for them.

Our only course now was to make our way as direct as possible to the Murchison through the outer edge of the settled country, where we could get water at moderate stages from the settlers' wells, doing away with the necessity of carrying large quantities of water. We had a stage of ninety miles without water, from Elichapatten to Pindeburra Well, which occupied us, owing to the dense thickets and the weak state of the camels, seven days. We then followed a dray track to Broad's Station, fifty-three miles. Then across country a day's stage to the Nalbaralla, Well, when a dray track served us for half a day, when we again made across Country to Watson's Station, from where a new track was followed to Coodardy Station on the Murchison-Geraldton road.

As soon as I established a depôt at Annean Station and made necessary arrangements for supplies, &c., I started for Geraldton to place myself in direct telegraphic communication with the council. The journey of 330 miles was accomplished in ten clays, and after a few telegrams had passed between the council and me I was much distressed at receiving imperative instructions to return to Adelaide to consult with the council. I felt that a loss of time and much needless expense would accrue.

Before leaving Geraldton I wrote full instructions to Mr. Wells what to do during my absence. Fortunately for him, the night after he left with a light party to examine the unexplored country lying to the east of our depôt, in accordance with my instructions, the three years' drought broke up and splendid rains fell all over the country, so that he was enabled to send the water team back to the depôt and travel fast and far, accomplishing in the six weeks he was away a very important work; he travelled 834 miles, discovered some fine ranges and bids, a large extent of pastoral country and some auriferous country, but no permanent surface waters.

Briefly, the country traversed is from Welbundinum Well (the depôt camp), which is about forty miles east of Annean station, for fifty miles, good pastoral country, crossing the Montagu Range, 2,260ft. above sea level. Then a narrow belt of sand ridges with spinifex was crossed (fourteen miles in width), when good pastoral country was again entered, extending for 170 miles to the eastward; at fifty miles (in the good pastoral country) auriferous country was met with, extending for 100 miles easterly, the lay of the country being northwest and south-east, with fine hills and ranges and two large gum creeks, in one of which, the Erlistoun, Mr. Wells considered a permanent soakage exists. There can, I think, be very little doubt that water is to be obtained at reasonable depths, making this country worthy the attention of the pastoralist. Then sixty miles of sand ridges were traversed, when auriferous country was again met with. Then for forty miles the hills and ridges and good pastoral country broken by belts of sandy spinifex country continued, when the edge of the Great Victoria Desert was entered upon, and nothing could be seen to the east but sand ridges whose spinifex-covered surface was relieved by the bright green foliage of the desert gums and by black patches of mulga. Mr. Wells then travelled north-east over sand ridges for sixty-two miles, when he turned west for twenty-four miles to a long range (the Ernest Giles) having a north and south trend and an elevation of 2,170ft. above sea level, surrounded by good stock country. Descending the western slopes a belt of sand ridges, broken by mulga-covered hills, continued for twenty-eight miles to a long narrow salt lake (Lake Wells), which is surrounded by high hills and splendid pastoral country, extending for 120 miles westerly, and as far north as could be seen; small patches of sandy country to be seen to the southward. Then twenty-two miles of sandy country was crossed and good pastoral country was entered upon, extending for 160 miles to the depôt at "Welbundinum Well", passing at thirty-six miles a spot where permanent water is considered to exist.

The pastoral country discovered is equal to that now occupied by settlers on the Murchison, and no doubt will ere long be taken up and stocked with cattle. The auriferous country will probably be found capable of supporting a fairly large population, which will hasten on and render profitable the stocking of those extensive valleys which, according to the description given, consist of "rich chocolate loam covered good stock mulga, acacias, saltbush, and grass."

Immediately on Mr. Wells' return to the Murchison he proceeded, in accordance with the instructions awaiting him, to disband the expedition, which was most unfortunate, as the drought having now broken up all over Western Australia, the remainder of the unexplored regions in Australia could have been quickly and easily examined.

NATIVES.

Of the natives little need be said, as no doubt the medical officer will hand in his full report. During the whole expedition very few were met with. Four men in the vicinity of the Everard Ranges were the first seen; they were friendly, and travelled with us for some weeks. Then one old man was seen, and then about 110 miles from the Everard six men visited us speaking the same language and practising the same rites of circumcision and incision. These left us quickly, and a week later we had thirteen natives in the camp, friendly and with the same habits and customs, medium stature, but strong and healthy and in good condition. No women or children were seen. For the next sixty miles we had with us numbers varying from three to thirteen. Many footprints of women and children were seen. At Pernamo Hill they refused to go any farther, saying there was no more water. The next natives seen were an old man and old woman near Skirmish Hill; the next at camp 33, in the neighborhood of which between fifty and 100 or more were living at the different rockholes. Women and children were seen, but all were so frightened that no Communication could be held with them. The men, fine fellows some of them, were very afraid and excited and wanted us to leave their district, but they showed no hostility to us. Mr. Wells saw a few on the sandhills. Mr. Leech surprised some in block B, and I saw some to the westward. At Mount Squires we were visited by twelve men, most of them of fine physique, who were very frightened. I gave them some presents, and they left. Next seen were in the sandhills at a rockhole, where they attacked Mr. Wells and myself, but we were able to overcome their hostile intentions and hold friendly intercourse with them. At the rockholes 120 miles south-west of Mount Squires we surprised a mob, who were inclined to attack us, but were overawed by our numbers and the camels. After a little trouble we talked with the men and gave them some red handkerchief's. So far as we could ascertain in the few minutes we had with them their language and customs were still the same as those seen farther back. No more natives were seen until we reached Fraser Range Station, where many were employed by a dam sinker. The dialect spoken was quite different, and they were an inferior type, being smaller and not so well formed. A woman and a man—brother and sister—were seen, both having six toes on each foot and six fingers on each hand. From Fraser Range on to the Murchison natives were only seen at the stations. As many words as possible were obtained from them on every opportunity, and I beg to attach a list of words as obtained by Mr. Wells and myself. Mr. Wells saw one woman east of the Murchison, but she was too afraid to give any information.

SUMMARY OF WORK DONE.

From May 2nd to June 2nd, 1891. we travelled to reach starting point, 255 miles. From June 6th to October 3rd, 1891, we travelled through unexplored country, 1,813 miles; through explored country searching for water, &c., 306 miles; flying trips same routes afterwards travelled by caravan, 336 miles. From October 4th to November 2nd, 1891, in depôt at Fraser Range. From November 2nd to November 26th, 1891, through new country, ninety-eight miles; looking for water in explored country, 225 miles. From November 27th to December 7th, 1891, resting camels near Golden Valley. From December 7th, 1891, to January 3rd, 1892, travelling through mapped country, 412 miles. From January 4th to February 22nd, 1892, resting camels, taking stores from Moorowie to Murchison, and shifting depôt. From February 23rd to April 4th, 1892, flying trip (by Mr. Wells) through unexplored country, 834 miles. Total, 4,279 miles, which gives an average rate of travel for eleven months, that is from May 2nd, 1891, to April 4th, 1892, including all stoppages, of nearly fifteen miles per day. Area explored and mapped, over 80,000 square miles. Total mileage through unexplored country, 2,745 miles.

In conclusion, I unhesitatingly affirm, without fear of contradiction, that the course pursued under the circumstances of prolonged drought was on each occasion right and proper. When at Mount Squires had we spent any more time in searching for water the camels would have been unfit for the long journey to Queen Victoria's Springs, and the weather would have been so hot that the camels would have been unable to do such a long distance without water. Had we returned from Mount Squires and gone northwards we should still have had the drought to contend with, much time would have been wasted, and all the arrangements upset.

With the training our camels had undergone, I considered the risk of going the 400 miles to Queen Victoria's Spring was a fair one to take—every member of the party was with me in that decision; and the fact that I was able to lead the whole caravan 150 miles further without any loss of camels and equipment was a sufficient proof that my judgment was sound, and that had Queen Victoria's Spring not failed us we should have easily, from there as a depôt, completed the examination of block A, and been only two or three weeks' behind time at the Murchison depôt. When on the western side of the desert we found that the drought had been on for three years, and the natives living on water obtained out of roots; it would have been madness to have attempted to take the caravan across direct to the Murchison. And the camels were quite unfit to be sent out searching for water.

The vicinity of Fraser Range was not a suitable place for a lengthened stay, as the bushes were very dry and provisions for the party could not easily be obtained. That, when Hampton Plains failed us, the course followed of going to the Murchison, where was plenty of feed and water for the camels and provisions for the party, and from where the remaining portion of block A could be easily attacked and examined by lightly-equipped parties, was the proper one, was proved by after events. Even if the drought had not broken up I could, as I advised the council from Geraldton, have gone on with the work and completed the exploration of Australia. But when the drought broke up we were in a splendid position, and all our camels were fat and fit to go on, and if I had been allowed to fill the vacancies in the party and continue the work I have no hesitation in saying that not only would block A have been examined and probably new goldfields opened up for Western Australia, but blocks B, C, and D would have been explored by this date.

The abandonment of the expedition was a terrible disappointment to me. That men who had so little sense of their duty to their leader and to their generous employer should have been the primary cause of the break up of such a splendidly-equipped expedition, causing the opportunity of completing in such a thorough manner the exploration of those extensive unknown regions in Australia to be lost, is a matter that not only those intimately associated with the expedition, but geographers throughout the world, must ever regret.

I desire again to place on record my full appreciation of the splendid loyalty and assistance of Mr. L. A. Wells, the surveyor, and afterwards second officer, and also of the loyalty, good behaviour, and willing attention to his duties shown by Alfred Warren.I have, &c.,

DAVID LINDSAY.

Adelaide, October 4th, 1892.