Читать книгу Sophie Conran’s Pies - David Loftus - Страница 7
ОглавлениеPastry is as easy as pie. It really is a doddle. It’s just a simple mixture of flour, fat and liquid to bind.
Use a nice fine flour; the best you can lay your mitts on. I like to use natural fats in my pastry, avoiding anything containing hydrogenated vegetable fats such as margarine and some shortenings. Admittedly, these do make pastry easier to work with, as they melt at a higher temperature and don’t become as oily, but they’re difficult to digest and I personally think they taste foul. Butter and suet, on the other hand, are whole foods. The body recognises them and can digest them easily. I use butter for shortcrust pastry, which makes a wonderful, light, biscuit-like pastry. Suet makes a pastry that’s really easy to handle. I’ve found it holds its shape the best too as it does not shrink or crumble. If you’re a novice try a suet crust as it is pretty foolproof.
Pastry is usually made up from approximately two-thirds flour, one-third fat and enough liquid to bind it. The quantities you will need may vary as may the type of flour, fat or liquid used. Have a play. You can also add any flavour you like: spices, cheese, herbs, horseradish, mustard (English mustard powder is great mixed into a cheesy pastry; grainy mustard adds a great texture), and even vegetables or bacon can be added to savoury pasty, just like bread. For sweet pastries, try sugar, honey, spices like vanilla, cinnamon or nutmeg, rosewater, dried fruit, or herbs such as lavender and even crystallised petals. Let your imagination be your guide, but make sure what you add complements the filling and enhances the flavour. When adding an extra ingredient be mindful of the consistency of the pastry – some ingredients can dry it out, while others make it too sticky. This can be fixed by adding either a little flour or a little liquid.
Stay chilled
Keeping everything as cold as possible (including bowls, hands and ingredients) makes for the best pastry. That said, I have a warm kitchen and warm hands, supposedly two of pastry’s biggest enemies, but I still manage to make perfectly decent pastry. Some people suggest putting everything in the fridge for an hour before starting. If the fat becomes too warm it will melt and be absorbed into the flour too much, which prevents the flour from absorbing enough water, and the result is pastry that’s too crumbly and difficult to roll. This is particularly the case if you are working with a pastry with a high fat content, like puff pastry.
If the pastry is greasy and heavy once cooked, you will have overworked it, or it got too hot before cooking and the fat melted. Body heat and overworking can cause the fat to melt, so keep cool and handle it as little as possible. One way to avoid this problem is to mix the pastry in a food processer, which is also super speedy. I still love making pastry by hand, though; rubbing the butter into the flour is really therapeutic. My daughter, Coco, loves measuring out ingredients and getting her little hands stuck into the flour.
Watch your liquid
The more liquid you add, the more the pastry shrinks when cooked. So, if you take it out of the oven and it’s done just that and is also quite tough, you’ll know how to solve it next time: just reduce the amount of liquid. On the other hand, pastry needs liquid to react with the flour to lengthen the gluten strands, so if you haven’t added enough it will crack and crumble when you roll it.
Time to relax
For a similar reason, pastry is best made the day before and kept in the fridge. This gives the gluten strands in the flour time to relax; they become less elastic and the pastry will be easier to roll out. If your pastry shrinks but isn’t tough you probably didn’t chill it enough.
Wrapped in cling film, pastry will keep happily enough in the fridge for up to three days, or in the freezer for up to three months, ready for an emergency pie moment. Store it as a flatish disc, as this will make it easier to roll out when you want to use it. Pastry is easiest to work with at room temperature, so take it out of the fridge half an hour before you use it.
A note about “soggy bottoms”
Soggy bottoms are something I detest but, it seems, this is a matter of taste: soggy bottoms have their fans too. To avoid the dreaded soggy bottom of a tart or pie, the pastry case needs to be cooked (blind baked) before filling. To do this, line your pie dish or tart tin with pastry and prick the base a few times with a fork. If you have time, let him have a little rest in the fridge for about 10 minutes, as this reduces shrinkage of the pastry shell. Cover with baking (greaseproof) paper or foil and for puff pastries fill with a layer of dried beans, pulses or rice to stop the base from literally puffing up and making it impossible to fill. To crisp the base further, remove the foil and beans and pop it back in the oven for 5 minutes. If the edges look like they may burn just cover with foil. Bake according to recipe.
Soggy bottoms can also effect pie tops. A pie funnel will prevent this by supporting the pastry so it doesn’t sag into the filling and boil rather than bake. In addition, the funnel forms a vent through which the steam that builds up under the crust during cooking can escape (this also helps to stop the filling boiling over the edges). To use a pie funnel place it in the centre of the pie dish before spooning in the filling mixture around it. Cover with pastry in the normal way, making a hole with a knife through the pastry into the top of the funnel.
Funnels are not absolutely essential, however, and you can achieve much the same result simply by ensuring the pie dish is the correct size for the amount of filling, which should be piled full to keep the pastry elevated; then cut a small hole in the middle of the pastry to allow the steam out.
Choosing the right pie dish
Pie dishes come in all shapes and sizes, from wide shallow dishes to deep pudding basins. Where I’ve not given you a size, you can use any shape you like – all you need to do is use an oven-proof vessel of the right volume. You should allow approximately 350ml (12fl oz) per hungry adult.
Pie dishes often have the volume listed on the bottom, but if yours doesn’t you can measure it using a measuring jug. Do this by pouring water from the jug into the dish and counting up, not the other way round! It’s important to fill your pie dish to the top, so if needs be choose something a little too small rather than too big. If you have leftover filling you can always freeze it and use it for your next pie.
Individual pie, dishes approx. 350ml (12fl oz) each
4 people, dish approx. 1.5 litre (2¾ pints)
6 people, dish approx. 2 litres (3½ pints)
8 people, dish approx. 2.8 litres (5 pints)
SHORTCRUST PASTRY MAKES 300G (10OZ)
100g (3½oz) unsalted butter, straight from the fridge
200g (7oz) plain flour, cold if possible
a pinch of salt
1–2 tbsp chilled water or one small beaten egg
SWEET SHORTCRUST PASTRY MAKES 300G (10OZ)
100g (3½oz) unsalted butter, straight from the fridge
150g (5oz) plain flour, cold if possible
1 tbsp caster sugar
1–2 tbsp chilled water or one small beaten egg
Less is more
Restrain yourself when it comes to decorating the top of your pie, as over-decorating can make the lid soggy because of the double thickness (keep an eye on your kids here as they love the decorating bit and sometimes get carried away).
If this all sounds a little ominous and off-putting don’t worry! These things are easy to get right with the tiniest amount of practice. Everyone should have their own way of making pastry; these are only my personal preferences. As my mother used to say there’s more than one way to skin a rabbit. Have I enthused you yet? I hope so. It’s easy peasy. Give it a go.
Shortcrust pastry
The recipe opposite gives the amount of flour, butter, liquid and salt you’ll need for making 300g (10oz) of pastry. It is best made the day before. First, cut the butter into cubes, and put it into a food processor with the flour and salt. Using the cutting blade, blitz until it resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the chilled water or egg a little at a time. The amount of liquid you need will always be an approximation, as all flours are slightly different. If it is a very damp day, you will need even less liquid in the mixture. Pulse the mixture until it binds together into a ball. Scoop it out of the food processor and dust it with flour. Form the dough into a thick disc. Cover with clingfilm and chill for a minimum of 1 hour in the fridge. Allow the pastry to come back to room temperature before rolling out on a floured board.
How thinly you roll out your pastry is a matter of preference, and will depend on your choice of pie dish and the type of pastry you’re using. I tend to use a thickness of 3–5mm / ¼ in, so if you’re starting out, I would go with this.
Sweet shortcrust pastry
For sweet shortcrust pastry, you’ll need to reduce the amount of flour and, once you’ve mixed the flour and butter to breadcrumbs, add 1 tablespoon of caster sugar. Then pulse until mixed.(See the panel opposite for the amounts required for making 300g [10 oz].)
Vanilla pastry: replace some of the water with ½ teaspoon of vanilla extract.
Rosewater pastry substitute a tablespoon of water with a tablespoon of rosewater.
Cinnamon pastry add a teaspoon of ground cinnamon with the flour.
Filo and puff pastry
I should probably try to make filo pastry. Apparently it is an art form that takes generations of experience to perfect, so I stick to the shop-bought stuff as it’s usually excellent.
Puff pastry is the other kind of pastry for which there’s no shame in buying from the shops. Making from scratch requires so much rolling and refrigerating that it can seem far too time-consuming unless you are dedicated.
Baking in an Aga
I love my Aga. I love the way it gently breathes and warms the kitchen. Every pie in this book has been cooked on and in my Aga.
My basic method for cooking a pie involves first preparing the filling and then baking the filling in a pastry case or just covering with pastry. I tend to cook the filling on a simmering plate, using a large cast iron or ceramic casserole dish. If it is cooking too fast I put a coin under the pan. When it comes to baking, I usually pop the pie on the grid shelf on the lowest set of runners, in the roasting oven, then check after about 15 minutes and cover with foil if it looks like the pastry is brown enough. Below is a general guide to converting the temperatures used in this book for your Aga.
