Читать книгу Wild Garlic, Gooseberries and Me: A chef’s stories and recipes from the land - Denis Cotter - Страница 27

‘Farro’ is the common name in Italy for a very old wheat variety. It is sometimes translated as ‘spelt’, though some references suggest it is not the same grain but a similar and equally ancient variety. It is often sold in a semi-pearled state, which means that most of the husk has been polished off. This makes it very useful for making a rustic but strongly flavoured risotto-style dish, hence the name ‘farrotto’. It needs long, slow cooking, longer than the 20 minutes the pack might say, to get a rich, creamy finish. I like to make it with a lot of onion, both for flavour and texture.

The intense flavour of sprouting greens makes a great match for farrotto, as indeed do mushrooms. The recipe calls for a hard sheep’s cheese, and I generally use Cratloe Hills, from County Clare, whenever I need that tangy sweetness. Italian Pecorino or Spanish Manchego would be good too.

Bring the stock to the boil in a large saucepan then turn down the heat and keep at a low simmer.

Serves 4
3 tbsp olive oil
500g (18oz) purple sprouting broccoli
1 medium red onion,halved and thinly sliced
1 fresh hot red chilli, halved and sliced,seeds included
4 tomatoes, halved and sliced
salt and pepper

FOR THE FARROTTO
1.5 litres (2 3/4 pints) vegetable stock
3 tbsp olive oil
250g (9oz) leeks, washed and thinly sliced
250g (9oz) shallots, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
leaves from 1 sprig fresh thyme
1 tbsp chopped fresh sage leaves
200g(7oz)farro
100ml (3 1/2fl oz) white wine
100g (3 1/2oz) butter
85g (3oz) hard sheep’s cheese, freshly grated

In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil and cook the leeks, shallots and garlic for 5 minutes over a medium heat. Add the herb leaves and the farro, and cook again for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, to toast the grains. Add the wine, lower the heat and simmer for approximately 5 minutes until it has been absorbed. Pour in a ladle or two of hot stock and simmer, stirring occasionally, until it has been absorbed. Carry on adding stock in this way until the grains are soft and chewy. This may take 40-50 minutes.

As the farrotto nears the end of its cooking time, heat two tablespoons of the olive oil in a pan and cook the sprouting broccoli, red onion and chilli for 2 minutes over a medium heat. Add the tomatoes and the remaining olive oil, and cook for 2 minutes more. Then add a few tablespoons of stock and some salt and pepper, and cook for 1 minute.

When you are happy with the texture of the farrotto and all the stock has been absorbed, stir in the butter, cheese and some salt and pepper. Serve the sprouting broccoli with the farrotto, pouring the juices from the pan over each portion.