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THE TOOLS

CHIP CARVING KNIVES

I often refer to “the simplicity of chip carving” in the context of both the tools used and the execution of the various cuts. It wasn’t always simple. In earlier times, a variety of tools and knives were associated with the art, and the nationality of the carver generally determined which tools and methods were used.

Conventional carving knives are not suitable for chip carving because the blade does not have the appropriate angle (See Figure 2-1.). In the Netherlands, chip carvers used various razor-type blades; in Great Britain, they commonly used V-tools and single-beveled chisels and skews; and, in Scandinavia, they used various knives and chisels, in addition to picks, to clean out the bottoms of the cuts. One German tool manufacturer offers chip carving tool sets with as many as ten different shapes (See Figure 2-2.). Chip carving in these countries generally required the use of workbenches and holding devices, which obviously cut down on the portability of the art.

Figure 2-1. Conventional carving knives are not suitable for chip carving because the blade comes straight out from the handle without a downward angle.

The Swiss Influence

Though they initially offered multiple tool sets, the Swiss eventually refined their approach to include only two basic tools. The main tool is a cutting knife, and the second tool is commonly called a stab knife. Wayne Barton, an American who is a well-known authority on chip carving, trained in Switzerland using these two basic tools (See Figure 2-3 and Figure 2-4.).

Using just two tools surely made the art of chip carving much easier to learn as well as less expensive. Combine the simplicity of method with the fact that we require neither a workbench, nor clamps, nor a multitude of tools and aids generally associated with carving, and you can easily understand how chip carving grew in popularity.

However, the evolution of these basic chip carving tools did not stop here. Listening to the concerns and suggestions from hundreds of my students, I introduced a set of three tools in the early 1990s that was designed to produce maximum results with either the traditional or the more contemporary styles of chip carving.

Look at Figure 2-5 and examine the blade on knife 1. Notice how the radius has been reduced between the cutting edge and the back edge of the blade. The smaller radius means less metal in the wood while you are executing the cuts and, consequently, less chatter when you are carving curved chips. The handle was also made wider, giving the carver a greater, unobstructed viewing area in addition to providing a better grip. Knife 2 was added simply because the hands of a smaller person are smaller than those of larger carvers. While it may not seem like a big deal to many, having smaller tools can make a huge difference—just ask those with smaller hands! Other improvements to these U.S.-made knives include higher quality steel, reduced blade thickness, and precision grinding. These features mean that the knives will hold an edge well, will draw through the wood with less effort, and will require less sharpening time when brand new.

Figure 2-2. Seven of ten tools, specifically designed for chip carving, offered by a German company.

Figure 2-3. The Swiss eventually refined their approach to include only two basic tools—the cutting knife (1) and the stab knife (2).

Figure 2-4. Notice the downward angle of the blade as it comes from the handle of the main cutting knife. This blade angle was a huge innovation that helps in maintaining the consistency and proper angle for carving.

Figure 2-5. A set of three tools, introduced in the early 1990s, that was designed to produce maximum results with either the traditional or the more contemporary styles of chip carving.

Figure 2-6. Improvements to the Moor chip carving knives included a longer handle for knife 2 as well as more ergonomically shaped handles for knives 1 and 3.

Chip Tip

Moor knives are available either “pre-sharpened” or “unsharpened.” Whichever type you choose, you will need to keep them sharp. See Chapter Three: Sharpening for sharpening tips.

Figure 2-7. Notice how the ergonomic handle is designed for the proper grip.

Figure 2-8. Basic drawing tools: 0.5mm mechanical pencil with B lead, white polymer eraser, 12" T-square, and 6" bow compass.

Today’s Chip Carving Knives

The popularity of the original Moor knives did not mean there wasn’t room for improvement. Chip carvers discovered that the new small cutting knife (knife 2) was just the ticket for making those intricate and delicate chips (See Figure 2-6.). While carvers with smaller hands were delighted, those with larger hands asked for a longer handle. I also worked with the manufacturer to design an ergonomically shaped handle for knife 1 that would include precise features for the carver’s grip whether he or she is right- or left-handed (See Figure 2-7.).

Today’s chip carving knives feature a textured finish, technically referred to as “a coefficient of friction,” which means that they are easier to hold on to. The high-impact, synthetic handles are molded with interior fasteners, the blades are the same high-quality steel as the original Moor knives, and the knives continue to be made in the U.S.

DRAWING INSTRUMENTS

Chip carving is a fairly inexpensive carving style to practice due to the limited number of tools and drawing aids required. The new carver, therefore, is encouraged to purchase the best quality he or she can afford.

Basic Drawing Tools

A 0.5mm mechanical pencil with B lead for sharp and precise lines is a must (See Figure 2-8.). A 12" T-square that has both English or Imperial and metric markings is invaluable, as is a 6" bow compass. I use a white polymer eraser for removing or correcting pencil lines, and I buy them in bulk!

Chip Tip

A chip carver’s toolbox should include:

• 1 or 2 cutting knives

• stab knife

• 0.5mm mechanical pencil with B lead

• 12" T-square with both English or Imperial and metric markings

• 6" bow compass

• white polymer eraser

Templates

Another helpful tool is a border layout template (See Figure 2-9.). It will save you a great deal of time when drawing borders’ grids (See Figure 2-10.). Other templates (See Figure 2-11 and Figure 2-12.) that you may wish to add to your collection at a later date include a six-inch/metric plastic ruler that is flexible, a protractor for dividing circles into various sections, a radius template, a flexible marking guide, and a circle template (also ellipse template).

SAFETY

One very pleasant fact about chip carving is that it is a very safe carving style. Because of the way you hold the knife and because your hand rests on the wood, you should never cut yourself. Should you hold the knife improperly, however, then the possibility of “adding color to your work” becomes very real. We will talk more about this in the Chapter Four: How to Hold Chip Carving Knives.

You’ll also want to consider using a protective apron. Because we will be carving on our laps and not on a worktable, we’ll need to protect our laps. Why do we carve on our laps? There are a couple of reasons.

Figure 2-9. A border layout template.

Figure 2-10. You will often use these basic grid lines in borders.

Figure 2-11 and Figure 2-12. Other useful templates that you might want to add to your tools:

1) a six-inch/metric plastic ruler, 2) a protractor, 3) a radius template, 4) a flexible marking guide, and 5) a circle template, or ellipse template.

Chip Tip

Removing unwanted pencil lines once your carving is finished can be easier if you prepare the wood first. See here in Chapter Fourteen: Finishing.

Chip Tip

Holding your knife properly will help prevent the unfortunate experience of “adding color to your work” (mainly red)!

The first has to do with the position of our arms and how they bend at the elbow when we’re carving on our laps. You will soon discover that it is much easier to chip carve using your upper arm/body strength rather than your wrists. Not only is it easier, but you can also carve for longer periods of time without fatigue. Bending your arms at the elbow allows you to make use of your upper arm/body strength easily. If you place your work on a table or bench, you cannot use your upper arm/body strength as easily.

Figure 2-14. Notice how the apron’s work surface is reinforced with a heavy synthetic pad, protecting my leg or clothes from any stray cuts.

Figure 2-13. Because chip carvers often carve on their laps, they need to wear protective gear. Here, I am using a leg apron.

Second is the fact that consistent angles and chips are best obtained by holding your knife and workpiece in the same position all the time. Because chip carving is a very portable form of carving, you simply carry your knife and piece of wood with you, and then you can carve anywhere. Using different tables or benches at different locations would present a problem because they are seldom the same height as your work station at home. Your lap, on the other hand, is something you always have with you.

There are different devices you can use to protect yourself and your clothing while carving, such as a wooden tray or a leather apron. I use a leg apron (See Figure 2-13.) that was developed by the National Wood Carving School in Canada. It has a loop to hook onto your belt and three easy-snap straps to hold it in place. Because it bends at the knee, I can walk around or sit down while wearing it, and it isn’t as warm as a full apron. The work surface of the apron is reinforced by a heavy synthetic pad, which will prevent any stray cuts from damaging your leg or trousers (See Figure 2-14.).