Читать книгу The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained - E. A. Posselt - Страница 2

PREFACE.

HISTORY OF The Jacquard Machine .

The Jacquard Machine.—General Arrangement and Application.

Illustrations of the Different Parts of the Jacquard Machine.—Method of Operation, etc.

THE FRAME.

THE PERFORATED BOARD.

THE PLUNGER.

THE CATCHES.

THE GRIFFE.

THE HOOK.

THE NEEDLE.

THE BATTEN MOTION.

THE CYLINDER.

THE HAMMER.

THE NEEDLE-BOARD.

THE JACQUARD CARDS.

THE JACQUARD HARNESS.

The Comber-board and Methods of Figuring for it.

Comber-boards Made of a Solid Piece of Material.

The Changing of Solid Comber-boards for Different Textures.

Comber-boards made in Strips and Adjusted afterwards in a Frame.

Divisions of the Comber-board.

Heddles for the Jacquard Harness.

The “Leasing” of the Harness.

TYING-UP OF JACQUARD HARNESS.

1. The Straight-Through Tie-up.

1st. The Jacquard Harness threaded on the machine in the direction from Front to Rear.

2d. The Jacquard Harness threaded on the machine from Rear to Front.

3d. The Straight-Through Tie-up on the English System.

II. Straight-Through Tie-up for Repeated Effects, in one Repeat of the Design.

III. Straight-Through Tie-up of a Jacquard Loom having Front Harness Attached.

IV. The Centre Tie-up.

V. “Straight-Through” and “Point” Tie-ups Combined.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.

VI. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Two Sections.

A.—Using machine and comber-board in two equal sections.

B. Using two machines and a comber-board having equal sections.

C.—Using one machine and one comber-board: the machine unequally divided and the comber-board equally divided.

VII. Tying-up a Jacquard Harness for Figuring Part of the Design with an Extra Warp, (part for Two Sections, part for Single) .

VIII. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Three Sections.

IX. The Point Tie-up in Three Sections.

X. Combination Tie-up in Two Sections. (“Tie-up Amalgamate.”)

XI. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Four Sections.

XII. Tying-up of Jacquard Looms with Compound Harness attached.

The Kind of Heddles Required for Compound Harness.

Working the Compound Harness by a Separate Machine.

Number of Compound Harness to Use.

Positions of Compound Harness During Weaving.

A few Different Weaves for Working Compound Harness.

XIII.—Tying-up Jacquard Looms for Gauze Fabrics.

Modifications of the Single Lift Jacquard Machine.

I. Double Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard Machine.

II. Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquard Machine.

III. The Substitution of Tail-cords for Hooks.

Tying-up of Jacquard Harness for Two-ply Ingrain Carpets. With a General Description of the Working of the Loom and Construction of the Fabric.

I. The Straight-Through Tie-up for Ingrain Carpets.

II. The Point Tie-up for Ingrain Carpets.

APPENDIX.

Preparing and Stamping of Jacquard Cards.

I. Dobby Card Punching Machines.

II. Piano Card Stamping Machines.

The Stamping of Cards.

III. Repeating Jacquard Pattern Cards by the Positive Action Repeater.

The Lacing of Cards.

A. Lacing of Jacquard Cards by Hand.

B. Lacing of Jacquard Cards by Machine.

PRACTICAL HINTS TO LEARNERS OF JACQUARD DESIGNING.

Squared Designing Paper for the Different Textile Fabrics Executed on the Jacquard Machine.

Practical Use of the Heavy Square in Designing Paper.

Selection of Designing Paper for Single Cloth.

Selection of Designing Paper For Double Cloth.

Selection of Designing Paper for Two-ply Ingrain Carpets.

Selection of the Proper Brush for the Different □ Designing Papers.

Colors used For Painting Textile Designs.

Preservation of Textile Designs.

Sketching of Designs for Textile Fabrics to be Executed on the Jacquard Machine.

Methods of Setting the Figures.

Size of Sketch Required.

Enlarging and Reducing Figures for Sketches.

Transferring of the Sketch to the Squared Designing Paper.

Outlining in Squares.

Rules for “Outlining in Squares” Inside or Outside the Drawing Outline.

Illustration of a Sketch.

Design for Damask Fabrics to be Executed on a Jacquard Loom, with Compound Harness Attached.

Designs for Two-ply Ingrain Carpet.

Designs for Dressgoods Figured with Extra Warp (one end Ground, one end Figure) , and Executed on the Double Section Tie-up.

Designs for Figured Pile Fabrics.

The Shading of Textile Fabrics by the Weave.

Rule for Shading with Satin Weaves.

Glossary and Index.