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CHAPTER I. PAU.

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Trains and steamers—Bordeaux and its hotels—Lamothe—Morcenx—Dax—Puyoo—Orthez—First impressions of Pau—The hotels and pensions—Amusements—Pension Colbert—Making up parties for the Pyrenees—The Place Royale and the view—The castle of Pau and its approaches—Origin of name—Historical notes—The towers—Visiting hours—The tapestries—The wonderful bedstead—The delusive tortoiseshell cradle—The "Tour de la Monnaie"—The park—The Billères plains—Tennis and golf—The Route de Billères and the Billères woods—French sportsmen—Hunting—Racing—Lescar and its old cathedral—Fontaine de Marnières—The bands—The Parc Beaumont—Ballooning—The Casino—Polo—The cemetery—The churches of St. Martin and St. Jacques—The "old world and the new"—Rides and drives—to Bétharram—The start—Peasants and their ways—Vines trained by the roadside—Sour grapes—The "March of the Men of Garlic"—Coarraze—Henry IV.'s Castle—Bétharram—The ivied bridge—The inn—The "Via Crucis"—Assat and Gélos—The Coteaux—Perpignaa—Sketching with a donkey-cart—Over the Coteaux to Gan—The drive to Piétat—Picnicking and rejected attentions—The church—Feather moss—Bizanos—Carnival time—"Poor Pillicoddy"—"Idyllic Colbert."

'Twixt France and Spain

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