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The area of the flue should never be less than 8 inches in diameter if round, or 8 by 8 inches if square—unless for a very small heating boiler or tank heater. Nine or 10 inches round, or 8 by 12 rectangular is a good average size. The flue should generally have a little more area than that of the connecting smoke pipes.

Draft force depends very much on the height of the flue.

The chimney top should run above the highest part of the roof and should be so located with reference to any higher buildings nearby that the prevailing wind currents will not form eddies which will force the air downward in the shaft. Often a shifting cowl which will always turn the outlet away from the source of adverse currents will promote better draft.

The flue should run as nearly straight up from the base to the top outlet as possible. It should have no other openings into it but the boiler smoke pipe. Sharp bends and offsets in the flue will often reduce the area and choke the draft. The flue must be free of any feature which prevents a free area for the passage of smoke. The outlet must not be capped with any device which makes the area of the outlet less than the area of the flue.

The best form of flue is a round tile—in such there is less friction than in the square form and the spiral ascent of the draft moves in the easiest and most natural manner.

If the flue is made of brick only, the stack should be at least two 4-inch courses in thickness.

If there is a soot pocket in the flue below the smoke-pipe opening, the clean-out door should always be closed. If this soot pocket has other openings in it—from fireplaces or other connections—such arrangements are very liable to check the draft and prevent best action in the boiler.

The smoke pipe should not extend into the flue beyond the inside surface of the flue, otherwise the end of the pipe cuts down the area of the flue and injures its drawing capacity.

The inside of a flue should be smooth (pointed or plastered). When the courses are laid with the mortar bulging out from the joints the friction within the flue is very much increased. Often a troublesome flue is corrected by lowering some sharp-edged weight by a rope which should be worked against the sides of the flue until the clogging is scraped off.

A new chimney when “green” will not have a good drawing capacity. Short use dries out the mortar and better results follow.