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Trips from San Antonio

San Antonio sits at the southern edge of one of Texas’s prettiest regions, the rising and falling dreamscape of lakes, rivers, and limestone caverns called the Hill Country. In the 19th century, Germans and Czechs, fleeing social upheavals in Europe and lured by the promise of free land, established several small towns here; other settlements go back to the region’s cattle-ranching past. Eventually, the Hill Country’s mild climate and abundant springs gave rise to health spas, summer camps, and guest ranches. Modern tourism, in turn, brought restaurants, shops, lodgings, and a resurgent wine industry.

Any of these towns makes an easy day trip from San Antonio; you might even be able to do two in one trip (stopping in Boerne, for example, on the way to Bandera). Fredericksburg has the most accommodations and things to see and do; it also makes a good base for touring the other towns and attractions, including LBJ country. For a full listing of Hill Country events, see the Travel Texas website: www.traveltexas.com/cities-regions/hill-country/events.

Most of the towns covered here lie northwest of San Antonio, but if you head northeast via I-35, you can also visit New Braunfels, Gruene, San Marcos, Wimberley, and other destinations detailed as day trips from Austin in Chapter 17.

Boerne

32 miles NW of San Antonio

From downtown San Antonio, it’s a straight shot north on I-10 to Boerne (rhymes with “journey”), located on the banks of Cibolo Creek. The little (2¼ miles long) town was founded in 1849 by freedom-seeking German intellectuals, including Jewish-German political writer and satirist Ludwig Börne (1786–1837), for whom the town was named. In the 1880s, Boerne became a popular health resort. It’s now the seat of Kendall County, with more than 16,000 residents. The Boerne Visitors Center, 108 Oak Park Dr., off Main Street (www.visitboerne.org; 888/842-8080 or 830/249-7277) is open 8am to 5pm Monday through Friday, 10am to 2pm on Saturday (it’s closed Sun).

Day Trips from San Antonio

Exploring Boerne

Close enough to San Antonio to be almost a suburb, Boerne is working hard to retain its small-town atmosphere—and its heritage. One of the things it’s known for is the Boerne Village Band, which occasionally holds concerts in the gazebo on the main plaza; it first oompahed in 1860, and bills itself as the world’s oldest continuously operating German band outside of Germany. A number of 19th-century limestone buildings cluster in the city’s historic district, called the Hill Country Mile; a free self-guided tour pamphlet is available at the visitor center.

Boerne’s biggest draw, however, is the antiques shops, art galleries, crafts shops, and clothing boutiques that line Main Street. The second weekend of each month, Boerne Market Days (www.boernemarketdays.com/boerne.html; 210/844-8193) draws artists, crafters, and musicians to the town’s main plaza. One of the best places anywhere to buy Mexican folk art is just 2½ miles north of Boerne; take exit 537 off I-10 W. to Cosas, 39360 I-10 W. (www.cosasonline; 830/249-1500). The store does most of its business online, but if you’re in town Friday or Saturday from 11am to 5pm, you can browse a warehouse full of south-of-the border treasures. Alternatively, call ahead to make an appointment.

Those who want to spend their time outdoors can explore four distinct ecosystems—grassland, marshland, woodland, and river bottom—at the Cibolo Nature Center, 140 City Park Rd., next to the Kendall County Fairgrounds (www.cibolo.org, 830/249-4616). Behind it, on 33 Herff Rd., restored Herff Farm is open to the public on Saturday mornings, when it hosts a bustling farmers market.

Beneath the Hills of Hill Country

One of Boerne’s most popular attractions is Cascade Caverns (www.cascadecaverns.com; 830/755-8080), an active cave with huge chambers, a 100-ft. underground waterfall, and comfortable walking trails. To get there, head 3 miles south of Boerne on I-10, take exit 543, and drive 2 miles east. It’s open year-round 9am to 5pm, with tours on the hour from 10am to 4pm. A 1-hr. tour costs $20 adults, $13 ages 4 to 11; reserve ahead if you want to take the 90-min. flashlight tour ($25 adults, $16 children) or the 2½-hr. adventure tour (adults only, $100). A little farther from town (11 miles northeast via Route 474 and Kreuzberg Rd.) lies the even more impressive Cave Without a Name, 325 Kreutzberg Rd. (www.cavewithoutaname.com; 830/537-4212), which has more chambers, a greater amount of living rock, and a wider variety of features. Hour-long tours are offered throughout the day. From Memorial Day through Labor Day it’s open daily 9am to 6pm, the rest of the year daily 10am to 5pm. Admission is $20 adults, $18 seniors and military, $10 ages 6 to 12.

A Taste of alsace in Texas

Just 20 miles west of San Antonio (via U.S. 90 W.), Castroville has become something of a bedroom community for San Antonio, but the center of town retains its heritage as an old Alsatian community. It was founded in 1842, on a scenic bend of the Medina River, by Henri Castro, a Portuguese-born Jewish Frenchman who had received a 1.25-million-acre land grant from the Republic of Texas in exchange for his commitment to colonize the land. Second only to Stephen F. Austin in the number of settlers he brought over, Castro recruited 2,134 immigrants, mostly from the Rhine Valley, especially from the French province of Alsace. A few of the oldest citizens still can speak Alsatian, a dialect of German, though the language is likely to die out in the area when they do.

For insight into the town’s history, visit the Landmark Inn State Historic Site, 402 E. Florence St. (www.thc.texas.gov/historic-sites/landmark-inn-state-historic-site; 830/931-2133), which counts among its attractions a nature trail along the river, an old gristmill, and a stone dam. The on-site History Store, open daily 10am to 5pm (opens at noon on Sun), which also serves as an informal visitor center to the town, leads guided tours through the buildings ($4 adults, $3 children and seniors). The park’s centerpiece Landmark Inn has eight simple but well-equipped rooms decorated with early Texas pieces dating up until the 1940s (rates are $120–$140 per night including breakfast). They’re only available Wednesday through Saturday nights and Sundays before Monday holidays.

For a delicious taste of the Alsace, visit Haby’s Alsatian Bakery, 207 U.S. 90 E. (www.habysbakery.com; 830/538-2118), which sells fresh-baked apple fritters, strudels, stollens, breads, and coffeecakes. It’s open Monday to Saturday, 5am to 7pm.

For additional information, contact the Castroville Chamber of Commerce, 1115 Angelo St. (www.castroville.com; 800/778-6775 or 830/538-3142), where you can pick up a walking-tour booklet of the town’s historic buildings, as well as a map that details local boutiques and antiques shops around town. It’s open 9am to 3pm Monday through Friday. Note: Downtown Castroville tends to close down on Monday and Tuesday, and some places are shuttered on Wednesday and Sunday as well. If you want to find most things open, come on Thursday, Friday, or Saturday.

Guadalupe River State Park, 13 miles east of Boerne via Hwy. 46 to 3350 P.R. 31 (www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/guadalupe-river; 830/438-2656), features 4 miles of river frontage at a particularly attractive section of the river, above Canyon Lake. You’ll find a number of excellent swimming spots and some hiking trails leading through beautiful, rugged hill country. Keep an eye out and you might spot white-tailed deer, coyotes, armadillos, or even a rare golden-cheeked warbler. Camping is available; make reservations on line. Check ahead for ranger-led interpretive tours. The park is open daily 8am to 10pm; the entrance fee is $7, free for kids age 12 and under.

More and more these days, Hill Country is also wine country, and it starts 12 miles north of Boerne on FM 1376, where Sister Creek Vineyards, 1142 Sisterdale Hwy. (www.sistercreekvineyards.com; 830/324-6704), is set in a converted century-old cotton gin on the main—actually the only—street in Sisterdale. The winery creates traditional French wines using traditional French techniques, but the attitude is Texas friendly.

Where to Stay & Eat in Boerne

Peggy’s on the Green, 128 W. Blanco (www.peggysonthegreen.com; 830/249-9954), created by Mark Bohanan, chef/owner of Bohanan’s steakhouse in San Antonio (p. 58), offers upscale Southern cooking—think chicken-fried quail—along with steak and seafood; entrees run from moderate to expensive. It’s open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday, brunch and dinner on Sunday. Peggy’s is the dining room for Ye Kendall Inn (www.yekendallinn.com; 830/249-2138), a Territorial-style boutique hotel fronting the main plaza. Opened as a stagecoach lodge in 1859, it now offers a variety of rooms, suites, and cabins in the moderate to expensive price range.

The more casual and less expensive Bear Moon Bakery, 401 S. Main St. (www.bearmoonbakery.com; 830/816-2327), is ideal for a hearty breakfast or light lunch. Organic ingredients and locally grown produce are used for the inventive soups, salads, sandwiches, and baked goods. You can watch ducks frolic in Cibolo Creek’s old mill pond when you dine at Dodging Duck Brewhaus, 402 River Rd. (www.dodgingduck.com; 830/248-3825). Sit out on the covered deck and enjoy lunch or dinner from an eclectic brewpub menu—everything from Cajun stuffed mushrooms to antelope burgers—as well as suds brewed on the premises. Prices are moderate.

Bandera

25 miles W of Boerne; 54 miles NW of San Antonio

Bandera is a slice of life out of the Old West, a town that could easily serve as a John Ford film set. Established as a lumber camp in 1853, the self-styled (and trademarked) Cowboy Capital of the World still has the feel of the frontier. Not only are many of its historic buildings intact, rodeos are still held here on a regular basis (major rodeos are on Memorial Day weekend and Labor Day weekend, but there are also frequent smaller rodeos in between). There’s a nod to contemporary attitudes—gun safety is discussed at the simulated shootouts that take place behind the visitor center, for example—but a lot of hunters live in the area, as evidenced by the taxidermist shops you’ll spot. In short, Bandera is not a Western theme park, but a real town.

Genuine hospitality and friendliness to visitors are part of the local ethos. For information about local events, outfitters, and activities, stop in at the Bandera County Convention and Visitors Bureau, 126 Hwy. 16 S. (www.banderacowboycapital.com; 800/364-3833 or 830/796-3045), open Monday through Friday 9am to 5pm, Saturday 11am to 2pm.

Exploring Bandera

Interested in delving into the town’s roots? Pick up a self-guided tour brochure of historic sites at the visitor center or head for the small Western Trails Heritage Park in the main square, across from the county courthouse. Historic markers commemorate the vast Texas cattle drives that once pounded through this area, which was on the Great Western Cattle Trail, immortalized in the book and movie Lonesome Dove.

Immigrant families from Poland settled Bandera in the 1850s; the church they built, the beautifully restored St. Stanislaus, 311 E. 7th St. (www.ststanislausbandera.com; 830/460-4712), is the country’s second oldest Polish parish. The small Frontier Times Museum, 510 13th St. (www.frontiertimesmuseum.org; 830/796-3864), opened its doors in 1933, an era when many museums were mainly showcases for curiosities. This one stays true to its original mandate—you’ll find a taxidermied two-faced goat and a medieval birthing chair among the exhibits—but it also offers a fascinating overview of the area’s history. The much newer (opened 2016) Bandera Natural History Museum, 267 Old San Antonio Hwy. (www.banderanhm.org; 830/328-5090), features displays of dinosaurs and ice age animals made by the same company that created the dinos for Jurassic Park. The educational exhibits include real full-body mounts of animals that the museum’s founder hunted, placed in replicas of their natural habitats.

BANDERA SHOPPING

If you stroll along Main Street, you’ll find a variety of crafters working in the careful, deliberate style of the past. The Leather Bank of Bandera, 318 Main St. ( 830-328-5080), is the outlet for distinctive Collins of Texas handbags (www.collinsoftexas.com), with styles ranging from vintage and bejeweled to contemporary. Thelma and Louize, 204 Main St. (www.themaandlouizebandera; 830/328-5060), carries a lot of brands beloved by contemporary cowgirls, including boho-chic Ivy Jane clothing and chunky J Forks jewelry. Housed in a 1908 building, the stocked-to-the-gills Bandera General Store, 306 Main St. (www.banderageneralstore.com, 830/796-8176), sells everything from boots to salsa. It has the only bookstore in town, as well as a fully functional 1950s ice-cream fountain serving malts, milk shakes, and banana splits. Western Trail Antiques & Marketplace, 200 Main St. (www.westerntrailantiques.com; 830/796-3838), brings together contemporary local crafts as well as things retro, from vintage boots to farm collectibles.

Off the Main Street drag, you can buy beautiful customized belt buckles, spurs, and jewelry at Hy O Silver, 1107 12th St. (www.hyosilver.com; 830/796-7961). Suzoo’s Wool Works, 584 Hwy. 16 S. (www.suzoos.com; 949/400-4225), is a magnet for knitters and quilters, who come for supplies and sign on for classes.

sports & Outdoor activities

You don’t have to go farther than Bandera Park (www.cityofbandera.org/2161/Park; 830/796-3765), a 77-acre green space within city limits, to enjoy nature, whether you want to stroll along the River Bend Native Plant Trail or picnic by the Medina River. Or you can canter through the Hill Country State Natural Area, 10 miles southwest of Bandera (www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/hill-country; 830/796-4413), the largest state park in Texas that allows horseback riding. Ask at the visitor center about outfitters for day rides; many guest ranches provide mounts.

About 20 miles southeast of town (take Hwy. 16 to R.R. 1283), Bandera County Park at Medina Lake (www.banderacounty.org/services/MedinaLakePark; no phone) is the place to hook crappie, white or black bass, and huge yellow catfish; the public boat ramp is on the north side of the lake, at the end of P.R. 37. Get a single-day license for nonresidents ($16) at the Bandera True Value, 1002 Main St. ( 830/796-3861), and bring your own gear. If you want to kayak, canoe, or tube the Medina River, contact the Medina River Company, 1114 Main St. (www.themedinarivercompany.com; 830/796-3600), which rents equipment and provides shuttle service.

Most people visit the Lost Maples State Natural Area, about 40 miles west of Bandera in Vanderpool (www.tpwd.texas.gove/state-park/lost-maples; 830/966-3413), in autumn, when the leaves put on a brilliant show. But birders come in winter to look at bald eagles, hikers like the wildflower array in spring, and in summer, anglers do their best to reduce the Guadalupe bass population of the Sabinal River.

Where to Eat in Bandera

If you’re looking for Tex-Mex or country cooking with lots of local atmosphere and little harm to your wallet, you’ve come to the right place. Typical is O.S.T., 311 Main St. (www.ostbandera.com; 830/796-3836), named for the Old Spanish Trail that used to run through Bandera; it’s been open since 1921. Check out the John Wayne room, covered in photos and old movie posters of “the Duke.” Brick’s River Cafe, 1105 Main St. (www.bricksrivercafe.com; 830/460-3200), behind the River Oak Inn at the north end of town, serves up down-home standards such as chicken-fried steak, fried catfish, and liver and onions. From a seat on the back deck (half enclosed, half open-air), you can look out over the Medina River. Mi Pueblo, 706 Main St. ( 830/796-8040), is known for its generous portions of dishes like enchiladas verde, carnitas, and breakfast burritos. The huge TJ’s at the Old Forge, 807 Main St. (www.tjsoldforge.com; 830/796-9990), which calls its atmosphere “modern Western,” has a nice selection of salads, fish, and lighter fare alongside its burgers and steaks. The two-tiered dining room has bars with TVs tuned to the latest games.

It’s worth the 13-mile drive northwest of Bandera, via gorgeously scenic Hwy. 16, to visit the little town of Medina, which calls itself the Apple Capital of Texas. Love Creek Orchards (www.lovecreekorchards.com; 800/449-0882 or 830/589-2202) on the main street runs the Apple Store Bakery & Patio Café, which sells apple pies and other fresh-baked goods, as well as apple cider, apple syrup, apple butter, apple jam, and apple ice cream. Not feeling fruity? The restaurant out back serves some of the best burgers in the area.

Staying at a guest ranch

Accommodations in the Bandera area range from rustic cabins and RV hook-ups to upscale B&Bs, but if you’re looking for lots of activities and/or a genuinely relaxing getaway, stay at one of Bandera’s many guest ranches. The Bandera website (www.banderacowboycapital.com) has a full listing of them; below are some of our favorites. Rates at all the following are based on double occupancy and, unless otherwise specified, include three meals, two trail rides, and most other activities.

Note that most guest ranches have a 2-night (or more) minimum stay, but honestly, you wouldn’t want to spend less time than that at a dude ranch—it’ll take at least half a day to start to unwind. Expect to encounter lots of European visitors; chat with them and you’ll learn about all the best beers in Texas—and Germany.

The Dixie Dude Ranch, 833 Dixie Dude Ranch Rd. (www.dixieduderanch.com; 800/375-YALL [375-9255] or 830/796-7771), is still a working ranch, run by a seventh-generation Texan. You’re likely to see white-tailed deer or wild turkeys as you trot on horseback through a 725-acre spread. The down-home, friendly atmosphere keeps folks coming back year after year. Rates are $150 per night for adults, $60 to $110 for children depending on age.

Tubing on the Medina River and soaking in a hot tub are among the many activities at the Mayan Ranch (www.mayanranch.com; 830/796-3312 or 830/460-3036), another well-established family-run operation ($170 per adult, $80–$100 per child). The ranch provides plenty of additional Western fun for its guests during high season—things like two-step lessons, cookouts, hayrides, singing cowboys, or trick-roping exhibitions.

The Silver Spur Guest Ranch, 9266 Bandera Creek Rd. (www.silverspur-ranch.com; 830/796-3037 or 460-3639), offers the best of both worlds: creatures and creature comforts. Horses, longhorn cattle, miniature donkeys, and pygmy goats are among the four-legged residents of the 300-acre spread, while a Healing Studio provides a serene space for treatments like aromatherapy. The ranch, which abuts the Hill Country State Natural Area (p. 138), also boasts the region’s largest swimming pool and a great kids’ play area. There are several different rates: You can go for all-inclusive ($130–$170 adults, $50–$95 children), non-riding ($110–135/$50–$85), or breakfast-only ($55–$105/$20–$55) plans.

Bandera Nightlife

Bandera has a lot of rustic, often loud, honky-tonks. If you’re in town on an off night, you can chew the fat in peace with some of the other patrons. On Friday and Saturday, there’s usually live music, so come prepared to dance.

One popular joint is Arkey Blue’s Silver Dollar Bar, 308 Main St. ( 830/796-8826), downstairs below the Bandera General Store. A well-known figure in Texas country music, Arkey has written songs for some of the biggest names in the state, including Willie Nelson. Sawdust is strewn on the floor to provide a better surface for boot scootin’. On a table in one of the corners, you can see where Hank Williams, Sr., carved his name. Just down the street, the Chikin Coop, 401 Main St. ( 830/796-4496), is so named because it used to have chicken wire in place of windows. It has live music on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, everything from rockabilly to Western swing. In addition to concerts, some by national recording stars, the 11th Street Cowboy Bar, 307 11th St. (www.11thstreetcowboybar.com; 830/796-4849), is known for its Wednesday steak nights: You bring your own meat, the bar provides the barbecue grills, utensils, and spices—and sells side dishes.

Comfort

16 miles NW of Boerne; 48 miles NW of San Antonio

Situated about halfway between Boerne and Kerrville, the quirky town of Comfort was founded in 1854 on the banks of the Cypress Creek by German freethinkers and agnostics (the town’s first church wasn’t built until 1900). The town’s founders were also opposed to slavery, and sided against the Confederacy in the Civil War. Look for the Treu de Union (Loyalty to the Union) monument in the center of town (High St., between Second and Third sts.), which honors 68 townsmen who were killed by Confederate soldiers in the 1862 Battle of Nueces.

The rough-hewn limestone buildings in the center of Comfort may contain the most complete 19th-century business district in Texas. Noted San Antonio architect Alfred Giles designed several of the structures. These days, most of the buildings, especially those on High Street, host an eclectic array of shops, such as The Elephant Story, 723 High St. (www.the-elephant-story.com; 830/995-3133), a nonprofit selling merchandise—everything from sleep masks to pen holders—to benefit elephant conservation in Asia. Christy’s Boutique, 704 High St. ( 830/995-2493), carries colorful, distinctive fashions, some imports, some local, at reasonable prices. Around the corner, The Tinsmith’s Wife, 405 7th St. (www.tinsmithswife.com; 830/995-5539), is the go-to spot for needlecrafters, knitters, and fabric artists of all types. There are antiques shops scattered all around town, but more than 30 dealers gather on High Street at the Comfort Antique Mall, 734 High St. (www.visitcomfortantiquemall.com; 830/995-4678). Hill Country Distillers, 723 Front St. (www.hillcountrytxdistillers.com; 830/995-2924) creates intriguing spirits crafted with cactus and jalapeño.

In all cases, check ahead for hours, but as in other small towns around here, expect lots of places to be closed Monday through Wednesday. For more information, contact the Comfort Chamber of Commerce, 630 Hwy. 27 (www.comfortchamber.com; 830/995-3131), open Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to 3pm.

Where to Eat in Comfort

Take a shopping break on the cheery back patio of Comfort Pizza, 802 High St. ( 830/995-5959), a converted gas station serving thin-crust pies. Toppings include everything from lime-chile spiced pineapple to fresh basil. The weekly changing menu at 814, A Texas Bistro, 713 High St. (www.814atexasbistro.com; 830/995-4990), might include grilled lamb chops with a balsamic glaze or sauteed salmon with spinach risotto.

Where to Stay in Comfort

If kicking back on a rocking chair overlooking a quiet courtyard sounds appealing, consider spending the night at Hotel Faust, 717 High St. (www.hotelfaust.com; 830/995-3030). A Texas Historic Landmark—it was built as an inn in the 1880s by Alfred Giles—the boutique hotel has six airy rooms ($185–$260), a log cabin ($260), and a cottage ($300).

Kerrville

25 miles N of Bandera; 18 miles NW of Comfort; 34 miles NW of Boerne; 65 miles NW of San Antonio

With a population of about 20,000, Kerrville is larger than the other Hill Country towns detailed here. Now a popular retirement and tourist area, it was founded in the 1840s by Joshua Brown, a shingle-maker attracted by the area’s many cypress trees (and a friend of Major James Kerr, who never actually saw the town and county named after him). A rough-and-tumble camp surrounded by more civilized German towns, Kerrville soon became a ranching center for longhorn cattle and, more unusually, for Angora goats; at one time it produced the most mohair in the United States. After it was lauded in the 1920s for its healthful climate, Kerrville began to draw youth camps, sanitariums, and artists.

Exploring Kerrville

Make your first stop the Kerrville Convention and Visitors Bureau, 2108 Sidney Baker (www.kerrvilletexascvb.com; 800/221-7958), where you can get a map of the area as well as of the historic downtown district. It’s open weekdays 8:30am to 5pm, Saturday 9am to 3pm, and Sunday 10am to 3pm.

A Bit of old england in the Old West

Several attractions, some endearingly offbeat, plus beautiful vistas along the Guadalupe River, warrant a detour west of Kerrville. Drive 5 miles from the center of town on Hwy. 27 W. to reach tiny Ingram. Take Hwy. 39 W. to the second traffic light downtown; after about a quarter of a mile, you’ll see a sign for the Historic Old Ingram Loop, once a cowboy cattle-droving route and now home to rows of antiques shops, crafts boutiques, and art galleries and studios. Back on Hwy. 39, continue another few blocks to the Hill Country Arts Foundation (www.hcaf.com; 830/367-5121), a complex comprising a theater, an art gallery, studios where arts-and-crafts classes are held—and a replica of Stonehenge. It’s not as large as the original but, this being Texas, it’s not exactly diminutive either. A couple of reproduction Easter Island heads fill out the ancient mystery sculpture group commissioned by Al Shepherd, a wealthy eccentric who died in the mid-1990s.

Then head to the restored downtown, flanked by the Guadalupe River and a pleasant park. Kerrville’s historic buildings, most of them concentrated on Earl Garrett and Water streets, host a variety of restaurants and shops, many selling antiques and/or country-cute knickknacks. Among the most impressive structures is the Schreiner Mansion Historic Site, 226 Earl Garrett St. (www.caillouxfoundation.org/schreiner-mansion; 830/895-5222), a mansion built of native stone by Alfred Giles for pioneer rancher and banker Capt. Charles Schreiner. The house is sometimes open for tours; call ahead. The 1935 post office now hosts the Kerr Arts & Cultural Center, 228 Earl Garrett St. (www.kacckerrville.com; 830/895-2911), which exhibits work by local artists, in addition to hosting large annual exhibitions like the Southwest Gourd Fine Art Show and the Texas Furniture Makers Show.

To view work by top sculptors and painters from the mid–20th century to the present, head just outside the main part of town to the Museum of Western Art, 1550 Bandera Hwy. (www.museumofwesternart.com; 830/896-2553), a high-quality collection housed in a striking Southwestern structure by O’Neill Ford. It also has an interactive children’s history gallery. Outdoor enthusiasts will enjoy nearby Kerrville-Schreiner Park, 2385 Bandera Hwy. (www.kerrvilletx.gov/318/Kerrville-Schreiner-Park; 830/257-7300), a 500-acre green space boasting 7 miles of hiking trails, swimming and boating on the Guadalupe River, campgrounds, and a variety of cabins for rent.

Military buffs and souvenir-seekers might want to drive 12 miles south of Kerrville on scenic Hwy. 173 to see Camp Verde, the former headquarters (1856–69) of the short-lived U.S. Army camel cavalry. The quixotic attempt to introduce “ships of the desert” into dry Southwest terrain never took off, due to widespread ignorance of the animals’ habits; the onset of the Civil War dealt the program a final blow. There’s little left of the fort itself, but the Camp Verde General Store (www.campverdegeneralstore.com; 830/634-7722), with its camel statue out front, is a popular tourist stop. Established in 1857 to serve the soldiers stationed nearby, the store has been revamped several times; the most recent overhaul scrapped most of the wonderfully tacky camel-related tchotchkes in favor of more tasteful gifts, and added a cheerful casual restaurant serving hearty sandwiches and sides; it’s open from 11am to 3pm.

Where to Eat in Kerrville

The setting—a beautifully restored 1915 depot with a lovely patio out back—is not the only thing outstanding about Rails , 615 Schreiner (www.railscafe.com; 830/257-3877), which serves some of the best food in the Hill Country. Everything, from the creative salads and Italian panini sandwiches to a small selection of hearty entrees, is made with fresh ingredients, many bought locally. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday, and prices are moderate.

The name is Italian, but the menu at Francisco’s, 201 Earl Garrett St. (www.franciscos-restaurant.com; 830/257-2995), is eclectic, with lots of nods towards Mexico. It’s housed in the 1890s Weston building. A downtown business crowd comes for soup and salad combos at lunchtime; many return on weekend evenings for such mix-it-up entrees as cilantro lime shrimp or teriyaki chipotle chicken. Francisco’s is open for lunch Monday through Saturday, dinner Thursday through Saturday. Prices range from moderate to expensive.

bats Along a Back Road to Fredericksburg

It sounds like something out of a horror flick: millions of bats streaming out of an abandoned tunnel on a Texas back road. But this phenomenon, which you can view under the supervision of the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department, is fascinating—and not at all scary. From Comfort, take Hwy. 473 N. for 5 miles. When the road winds to the right toward Sisterdale, keep going straight on Old Hwy. 9. After another 8 or 9 miles, you’ll spot a parking lot and a mound of large rocks on top of a hill. During the season (May–Oct), around dusk you can watch as many as three million Mexican free-tailed bats set off on a food foray. There’s no charge to witness the phenomenon from the Upper Viewing Area, near the parking lot; it’s open daily. If you want a closer view and an educational presentation lasting about 30 minutes to an hour, come to the Lower Viewing Area, open from Thursday through Sunday ($5 per person ages 4 and up, cash or check only). Children younger than 4 are not permitted in the Lower Viewing Area. There are 70 seats, filled on a first-come, first-served basis. Contact the Old Tunnel Wildlife Management Area (www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/old-tunnel/bat-viewing; 866/978-2287 [recorded information]) to find out when its occupants are likely to flee the bat cave.

Fredericksburg

25 miles NE of Kerrville; 23 miles N of Comfort; 70 miles NW of San Antonio