Читать книгу Re-presentation Policies of the Fashion Industry - Eleni Mouratidou - Страница 16

This research falls within the disciplinary framework of the ICS. It is defined as a study of the rewriting and transformation of communication strategies and market mediation, the latter also being understood from an advertising perspective, i.e. “a relay between supply and demand, the advertiser and its addressees, products and consumers” (de Iulio 2016, p. 64, author’s translation) generating symbolic and economic stakes. Its grounding in the ICS also testifies to an interscientific approach and mobilizes as much research in the socioeconomics of the creative industries as in semiotics³¹ and discourse analysis. The aim of this analytical position is to bring together around the same object of study a socioeconomic approach to fashion and luxury as a creative industry and a semiotic and discursive analysis of the mediations of this industry, mediations which, let us recall, are understood here as re-presentational policies. These two approaches are considered from a complementary perspective. The semiotic and discursive analysis will illustrate the socioeconomic stakes that shape this industry. The socioeconomic analysis will shed light on the way in which the same models of luxury fashion engender, or even impose, certain re-presentational policies implemented by this industry. The objective is to situate the strategies and market mediations of the fashion industry in the gaps between the production of discourse here conceived as being “at the same time controlled, selected, organized and redistributed by a certain number of procedures whose role is to conjure up its powers and dangers, to control the random event, to dodge the heavy, formidable materiality” (Foucault 1971, p.11, author’s translation) and “industrialized cultural and informational productions both from the point of view of their production and their consumption as well as the complex modalities of their circulation in societies” (Miège 2017, p. 9, author’s translation).

Finally, this complementarity is based on the principle of “taking into account, in communication phenomena, that they are at the same time sociodiscursive, socio-anthropological, etc., and that consequently only inter-scientific approaches can give a relevant account of them” (Miège 2004, p. 52, author’s translation).