I learned to cook by watching skilled home cooks. I have never forgotten a long-ago Thanksgiving when my husband’s Aunt Beanie matter-of-factly began her turkey gravy by simply placing the roasting pan directly on the stove’s burners. Or when I saw a friend’s mother start her hard-boiled eggs in cold water. Or when a French friend of mine showed me how to clean mussels. Without these friendly guides, so much of cooking becomes the purview of the expert, the supremely trained chef. This book does not assume or require mastery; instead, it invites you to learn, to be inspired, and hopefully to continue on your own cooking journey.

HOW TO CARE FOR KNIVES

It is worth investing in a good set of knives. If you care for them, they will last a lifetime. Quality stainless steel knives are made so that the blade continues through the length of the handle. Another indication of quality is blades made of multilayered steel. A sharp knife is a pleasure to use. Knives need to be sharpened regularly, either by you or a professional sharpener. You will sharpen them more frequently if you can do this in your own kitchen. Acquire a two-grit diamond stone, 600 on one side and 1200 on the other. Push the blade edge down the length of the stone, beginning with the 600 grit. Hold the blade fairly flat (about ten degrees). You should be able to slip three quarters under the highest point of the back of the blade. Do your best to hold this angle to avoid rocking back and forth as you grind off the edge. Switch over to the fine 1200 grit, using the same motions but maintaining a slightly higher angle (four quarters instead of three). In both stages, you must press hard enough so that you are grinding away metal. You should feel the bite of the stone as it removes metal from the edge of the knife. You will know it is sharp when you delicately place the edge of the knife on your thumbnail and it catches instantly. A sharp edge has matching angles on each side. A sharpening steel acts as a repair mechanism between sharpenings by straightening the edge of the blade. It does not sharpen edges. It is a long, thin tool, cylindrical in shape, that comes with good-quality knife sets. Knives should be hand washed, dried immediately after use, and stored in a slotted countertop or drawer holder. Never put knives in a dishwasher.

HOW TO CUT MEAT AGAINST THE GRAIN

Roasts are basically muscle and thus have a grain to them. Most cuts are muscle that runs up and down the leg or along the backbone of the animal. Therefore, in order to serve tender, easily cut slices, it is necessary to cut across the grain of the muscle fiber. If the roast is on the tough side, then cut thinner slices. Fibers are tough, so shorter segments will be easier to chew. Thin or thick, presentable slices of even thickness require a sharp carving knife, preferably one with a long, straight, thin blade.

HOW TO CARVE FOWL

Begin by placing fowl breast-side up on the carving board. Carving fowl, whether a chicken, turkey, or something more unusual, begins with identifying the joints. For a large fowl such as a turkey, the breasts and thighs may be carved into slices as well. Unlike beef roasts, slicing fowl is always done with the grain.

Loosen the legs by cutting the skin between the thigh and the breast with the knife tip. Pull the thighs away from the breast toward the cutting board. Find the joint where the thighbone attaches to the carcass and cut straight down to remove the whole leg. Repeat with the other leg. Then wiggle each leg to find the joint between the thigh and the drumstick. Cut straight down on that joint and place those pieces on your serving platter. Repeat with second leg.

To remove the breasts from the carcass, cut down on either side of the breastbone until you feel the resistance of the cartilage beneath. Using that cartilage as your guide, run your knife down either side of the bird until the breast is separated. Do the same on the other side. Place breasts on the cutting board, skin-side up, and pull wings outward. Cut down at the second joint. Transfer wings to serving platter as is, or remove the wing tips by cutting at the joint. Serve breasts whole, cut each into two pieces, or slice and fan meat out. Dispose of the carcass or simmer it to make your own broth (see pages 34 and 35).

Some of my favorite and most-used cooking tools: sharpened knives, cook’s tweezers (great for frying), and my brother-in-law’s beautiful handmade wooden spatulas.

HOW TO COOK PASTA

5 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 tablespoon salt

1 pound pasta (any kind)

METHOD

– In a large pot that can hold at least 3 quarts of water, heat water on high until a rolling boil is reached.

– Add salt and pasta.

– Quickly stir, making sure the water covers pasta and all pieces are separated.

– Reduce heat, but maintain a low boil.

– Cook, uncovered, according to package directions.

– Test for al dente (not crunchy, but not mushy; the pasta should have a bit of a bite to it).

– Drain in a colander, reserving a small amount of cooking liquid in the pot.

– Do not rinse with water—you want to keep the starch that has accumulated on the pasta; it will help thicken the sauce you will add later.

– Return pasta to the cooking pot with the small amount of water.

– Add butter or any warmed sauce you wish.

FOOD SOURCES: Until now, I could not find even a close second for the taste of homemade pasta, and then I tried Semolina Artisanal Pasta in Pasadena, a little storefront pasta-making enterprise where we retail customers can enter, buy, and swoon. This pasta is a whole different animal; it has texture and taste, and holds its chewiness. Otherwise, Eagle Rock Italian Bakery and Deli and Roma Italian Deli and Grocery have found a sweet spot between good-quality flour, variety, and value.

HOW TO COOK LONG-GRAIN RICE

Rice inspires strong preferences among rice-eating cultures, suggesting the great, wide world of variety beyond this very basic recipe. Short-grain Cal Rose, long-grain basmati and jasmine, the tiny Kala Jeera, and carnaroli or arborio, a foundation for risotto, are just a few examples. Shorter-grain rice contains more starch, which becomes almost creamy when cooked slowly. This recipe works for long-grain basmati or jasmine, and produces fluffy, drier rice with separate grains.

Makes 2 cups

INGREDIENTS

1 cup white long-grain rice

1⅓ cups water

METHOD

– Wash the starch from the rice. Start by placing the rice in a large bowl; fill the bowl with cold water and swirl the grains through your fingers. Tip out the starchy water, making sure the rice is held back, and repeat until the water runs clear. I use a sieve for the last rinse to make sure as much water as possible is drained.

– Combine rice and 1⅓ cups water in a pot large enough for the rice to double in volume as it cooks. A good rule of thumb is that rice and water are no higher than halfway up the pot.

– Bring water to a hard boil over high heat. Stir with a wooden spoon, making sure that no grains stick to the bottom of the pot. Turn the heat down to low, cover the pot, and continue cooking for 15 minutes. Turn the heat off and let the rice rest for an additional 10 to 15 minutes. If the rice is still a bit too moist, remove the cover and let sit a few minutes longer.

FOOD SOURCES: To experiment with rice varieties, try markets that cater to rice-eating cultures, such as Bhanu Indian Grocery and Cuisine and H Mart. Claro’s Italian Markets, Eagle Rock Italian Bakery and Deli, and Roma Italian Deli and Grocery carry rice that is ideal for risotto. Cookbook and Marukai Market feature Koda Farms Heirloom Rice. This rice is a revelation; it has a delicate perfume and a sturdy texture, even when used for porridges and risottos.

HOW TO POACH EGGS

With wisdom and contributions from Doug Herman.

INGREDIENTS

1 or 2 eggs per serving

1 tablespoon white vinegar

METHOD

– Fill a medium nonstick, fairly deep skillet or saucepan three-quarters full with water. Add vinegar.

– Heat until barely simmering. Crack the eggs into a small bowl, one at a time, and then slide each egg into the simmering water.

– Cook for a few minutes. As the egg whites start to become opaque, begin ladling the hot water over the top of the eggs.

– Cook slowly, ladling carefully to ensure that the tops of the eggs are not undercooked.

– Cook until the egg yolks begin to become slightly firm and then carefully, one at a time, remove the eggs with a slotted spoon to a folded-over paper towel.

– Carefully pick up the paper towel and flip the egg over onto a piece of buttered toast or onto the prepared tortilla and beans of Sunday Quesadillas (see page 99).

FOOD SOURCE: Okay, I am saying it: Fresh, organic eggs, raised humanely, taste better and are worth the difference in cost. What am I talking about? Twenty-five cents versus fifty or seventy-five cents per egg. Pasture-raised eggs are delicious, because the eggs are fresher and the hens manage their own diet of mostly grubs and grass. I love the almost saffron yolks and the firmer whites. Try your local farmers’ market, and don’t be afraid to ask about what their chickens eat and where they hang out. Culture Club 101 and Cookbook both carry high-quality eggs. You can find pasture-raised eggs at your local supermarket, but check the date of expiration on the carton. The more days left before expiration, the fresher the eggs.

HOW TO MAKE GREAT CHICKEN OR TURKEY BROTH FROM LEFTOVERS

Best after roasting a large chicken or a turkey. Use in Vegetable Soup—One Recipe, Ten Versions (see page 116) or any other soup recipe.

Makes 1 to 3 quarts, depending on poultry size

INGREDIENTS

Roasted carcass of a large chicken or small turkey

1 raw onion, peeled and studded with 3 to 4 cloves

2 raw carrots, peeled and cut into 3 large pieces per carrot

Salt and pepper, to taste

METHOD

– Place roasted turkey or chicken carcass in a soup pot; cover with cold water.

– Add onion and carrot.

– Heat mixture until boiling. Reduce to simmer.

– After 5 to 6 hours, strain the broth through a sieve.

– Throw away the carcass and vegetables.

– Add salt and pepper, to taste.

– Pour the broth into a large bowl.

– Cool for about 30 minutes, then cover broth with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator overnight.

– Skim off all fat.

– Pour broth into storage containers. Best to store in freezer unless you are going to use immediately.

NOTE: Diehards freeze the chicken fat to use in a number of rich dishes, including pâtés, chopped liver, and as the fat for roasted potatoes.

HOW TO MAKE CHICKEN BROTH THE EASY WAY

Makes 3 quarts

INGREDIENTS

6 pounds chicken necks and backs

METHOD

– Cover chicken with cold water in a large 6-quart soup pot.

– Heat water to boiling.

– Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 4 to 6 hours or more (I usually simmer the broth all night).

– Drain broth through a sieve and capture it in a large bowl.

– Cool for about 30 minutes, then cover the broth with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator.

– Remove layer of fat. (See Note facing page.)

– Ladle broth into freezer containers, label, and freeze. Use as needed.

NOTE: This broth is made without salt, allowing for a neutral flavor for the most versatility in cooking. I add salt and other seasonings to the broth, depending on the requirements of the dish.

FOOD SOURCE: Fish King sells more than just fish—chicken parts, too!

PANTRY SUPERCHARGERS

Experienced cooks are organized. This not only means they collect and measure ingredients for a dish before beginning to cook, it also means taking a bit of time to invest in making what I call pantry superchargers. These are homemade ingredients that add much to the flavor of a dish without a great deal of work. These pantry superchargers have a reasonable shelf or refrigerator life, so they are available as an addition or substitution for a great many dishes. I have included some suggestions for their use throughout the cookbook. See Try This notes, but don’t hesitate to experiment on your own.

CLARIFIED BUTTER

To clarify butter, place 1 pound of good-quality unsalted butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Cook over low heat until the butter is melted. It will separate into a bright yellow liquid and white foam. Remove from heat. With a large spoon, carefully remove the foam and discard. Pour the bright yellow liquid into a storage jar and use whenever you are cooking with butter. If you want to be thorough, pour the liquid through a fine sieve lined with several layers of cheesecloth. Store in the refrigerator. Clarified butter does not smoke or burn nearly as easily as untreated butter. It is also called ghee and is a consistent ingredient in Indian cooking.

FOOD SOURCE: Armen Market in Pasadena sells solid blocks of Challenge Butter called “chef’s cut” at a very reasonable price, usually less than four dollars a pound. I don’t see any reason to pay extra for wrapped sections of butter.

YOGURT CHEESE AND RICOTTA CHEESE SPREADS

Yogurt Cheese and Ricotta Cheese Spreads make a great foundation for lowfat cheese spreads. Just add your favorite seasonings, such as fresh herbs with garlic or spicy roasted chiles.

YOGURT CHEESE

Makes 2 cups

INGREDIENTS

2 cups lowfat or full-fat plain yogurt or Greek yogurt

Handful delicately flavored herbs, minced (chives, mint, basil, tarragon—you choose) Up to 1 tablespoon kosher salt, to taste

METHOD

– Pour yogurt into a cheesecloth-draped colander or sieve that is sitting in a large bowl. If using Greek yogurt, skip this step and go straight to the herbs and salt.

– Place in refrigerator overnight. Whey (the liquid) will separate from curds (the solid).

– Add the herbs to the yogurt and stir until just combined.

– Add salt sparingly and taste after each addition. Store in the refrigerator, in a covered jar, up to 3 weeks.

RICOTTA CHEESE SPREAD

Great on Crostini (see page 61)

Makes 2 cups

INGREDIENTS

About 2 cups good-quality whole-milk ricotta cheese from an Italian deli

3 to 4 tablespoons minced fresh herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, basil, chives, and thyme

Kosher salt, to taste

METHOD

– Mix together ricotta cheese and herbs. Add salt sparingly, tasting after each addition.

– Store in the refrigerator, in a covered jar, up to 1 week.

FOOD SOURCES: Cookbook, Eagle Rock Italian Bakery and Deli, Roma Italian Deli and Grocery.

CRÈME FRAÎCHE

This is an ingredient you will want to have around. It is easy to make, delicious, and much less expensive than the purchased version. I use it on nearly everything that tastes better with a creamy tang; it is yummier than store-bought sour cream, as its texture and flavor are more delicate.

Makes 2 cups

INGREDIENTS

2 cups heavy cream (avoid the ultra-pasteurized version, as it may never thicken and has a lot of the nutritional quality blasted out of it)

½ cup buttermilk

METHOD

– In a tall pitcher or other large container, whisk together cream and buttermilk until incorporated.

– Cover container with a light cloth or a couple layers of cheesecloth and leave at room temperature. The mixture will thicken within 1 to 2 days, depending on the room’s temperature, often only 1.

– Before using, give the crème fraîche a good whisk.

– Store in the refrigerator, covered, up to 2 weeks.

FOOD SOURCES: Great dairy products are becoming more and more available. Try Cookbook or Sprouts Farmers Market for a variety of good dairy choices. Straus Family Creamery is one example of a resource for high-quality milk and cream.

AGHOIAN FAMILY YOGURT

This particular version of yogurt is the simplest I have ever encountered—and it is delicious, too. Jack Aghoian’s family’s yogurt starter began generations ago; you can start yours today! (See Jack’s profile on page 139.) As in most cooking, the ingredients make a difference. Use good-quality whole milk and yogurt for your starter. When purchasing yogurt for your first batch, avoid yogurt with added ingredients, and avoid ultra-pasteurized milk, as the high-heat process can kill some of the enzymes that create yogurt and can affect the milk’s nutrients as well.

Makes 2 quarts

INGREDIENTS

2 quarts whole pasteurized milk

2 to 3 tablespoons whole-milk plain yogurt (to be used as a starter)

METHOD

– Heat milk in a generous-size, heavy-bottomed cooking pot over low heat until frothy. Continue cooking until the milk “rises.” Do not let the milk boil. Milk temperature will be about 180°.

– Remove the steamed milk from heat and allow it to cool to 115° to 120°. One way to cool the milk a bit more quickly is to pour it into a bowl. Cooling takes longer than you might expect.

– In a small bowl, combine yogurt with 1 cup warmed milk to equalize the temperature.

– Add yogurt mixture to remaining warm milk and stir until incorporated.

– Cover the pot or bowl with a lid or plate, then wrap with a towel to hold in the warmth, and place in a warm, draft-free spot. Jack places his yogurt on top of his O’Keefe and Merritt stove, where the burners are warmed by a pilot light. Jack’s mother, Mary, just wraps her yogurt in a towel and places it in the oven. There is no pilot light to maintain warmth, but it is draft-free. I use a simple yogurt maker, which is basically a single-temperature slow cooker. In this case, the milk and yogurt mixture is transferred to the bowl of the yogurt maker.

– Yogurt is ready in 4 hours; longer if you prefer a bit more tang.

– Reserve ½ cup yogurt to start your next batch. It will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

TRY THIS: Jack suggests a number of ways to enjoy yogurt. Add a dollop on a puréed soup for tang and presentation. Prepare a simple salad by dicing a half dozen Persian cucumbers and adding a tablespoon or so of yogurt, a minced garlic clove, a pinch or two of dried, crumbled mint leaves, and salt to taste. Or use your homemade yogurt as a base for fruit lassis and smoothies.

FOOD SOURCES: Garni Meat Market has excellent homemade yogurt, which could be used as a superior starter. Cookbook, Culture Club 101, Sprouts Farmers Market, and many farmers’ markets sell high-quality milk and yogurt products.

PESTO THREE WAYS

Pesto is one of the most flexible of recipes, relying on a combination of nuts or seeds, oil, fresh herbs, salt, and garlic. Classic and Country-Style Pesto are delicious on sliced tomatoes, on buttered pasta, spread on crostini, or as a flavorful addition to a sandwich.

Each recipe makes about 1½ cups

CLASSIC PESTO

INGREDIENTS

1 cup pine nuts (taste to make sure they are fresh)

¼ cup good-quality olive oil

2 generous bunches basil leaves, about 1 ½ cups (remove the stems, as they are bitter)

1 large clove garlic, pressed

Kosher salt, to taste

METHOD

– Blend the first 4 ingredients in a food processor or blender. Add a scant teaspoon of kosher salt and taste, adding more if necessary. Blend again until the pesto is very smooth.

– Pesto keeps up to 2 days, covered, in the refrigerator.

COUNTRY-STYLE PESTO

Substitute walnuts for pine nuts. Blend all ingredients until coarsely chopped.

CILANTRO PESTO

I like to serve this as an appetizer with tostados, or mixed into hot, buttered soba noodles.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups chopped cilantro, leaves only for a smoother texture

⅓ cup safflower or vegetable oil

⅓ cup toasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds)

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 clove garlic

¼ teaspoon salt (the cotija cheese is salty already, so you may choose to omit the salt)

2 jalapeños, with or without seeds, depending on desired heat level (optional)

2 to 4 tablespoons grated cotija cheese

METHOD

– Combine all ingredients but the cheese in a food processor. Add 2 tablespoons cheese and blend. Add up to 2 tablespoons more cheese, depending on your preference.

FOOD SOURCES: Pesto will taste good only if the ingredients are high quality and fresh. Try Aladdin Nuthouse for nuts; farmers’ markets for herbs and olive oil; Nicole’s Market & Café for olive oil; La Mayordomia Market, Super A Foods, and Vallarta Supermarkets for pepita seeds, cheese, and tostados.

MARIO MAKES SALSA

I think it must be all of the faux salsas I have been exposed to in my life that made Mario Rodriguez’s version a revelation. Please don’t chuckle, those of you who grew up eating the real deal. Its simplicity and versatility is the genius of this salsa. (See Mario’s profile on page 103.)

Makes about 1 cup

INGREDIENTS

6 jalapeños, whole

2 medium cloves garlic, unpeeled

1 medium tomato, whole

1 teaspoon, or more salt to taste

METHOD

– On a comal or in a medium, heavy-bottomed frying pan—cast-iron works well—roast jalapeños, garlic, and tomato over medium high heat. Turn the vegetables occasionally until softened and blackened in a few places. This takes a bit of time but little attention.

– Remove the vegetables from the pan; place them in a plastic or paper bag and close the bag.

– When the vegetables have cooled, remove them from the bag and peel them. Wear gloves, as the capsaicin oil in the jalapeños can burn.

– Though Mario’s mom, Lupe, taught him to peel the vegetables, you can also leave them as is, without peeling—with the exception of the garlic, which is always peeled.

– For the traditional method of blending, add the peeled garlic cloves to a mortar and pestle, or molcajete, and mash until they turn into a paste.

– Add the tomatoes and continue mashing; then add 1 jalapeño at a time until all of the vegetables are incorporated.

– Add salt and mix with a spoon. Taste, and add more salt if desired.

– For a smoother texture, use a blender in place of a mortar and pestle, and blend until smooth. Mario uses a blender to save time when making a large amount of salsa.

– Pour salsa into a glass container and store in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 3 days.

NOTE: This salsa is hot; if you can’t stand heat, remove some or all of the seeds from the jalapeños. These chiles vary in heat level; chiles with striations on the surface are especially hot. I recommend a quick taste after each jalapeño addition.

TRY THIS: Salsa makes a fine side sauce for scrambled eggs or tamales and is a key ingredient for huevos rancheros.

FOOD SOURCES: El Mercado de Los Angeles, La Princesita Carnicera y Tortilleria, Super A Foods, Super King Market, Vallarta Supermarkets.

SIMPLE SYRUP

I make simple syrup for a number of purposes, including canning fruit (such as Tart Pie Cherries, see page 77) and as a base for sodas. An interesting variation is the herbal simple syrup, below. Simple syrup is also a more elegant way to sweeten hot or iced tea.

THIN (FOR CANNING)

2 cups sugar to 4 cups water. Stir well before heating and bring slowly to a boil. Continue to boil for about 10 minutes, until the sugar is completely dissolved.

MEDIUM (FOR CANNING AND FLAVORING SOFT DRINKS)

3 cups sugar to 4 cups water. Prepare as for thin syrup.

HEAVY (FOR DESSERTS)

4½ cups sugar to 4 cups water. Dissolve and stir very carefully to prevent crystallization and scorching.

FLAVORED SYRUP FOR HOMEMADE SODAS AND LOVELY TEA

Use medium simple syrup as the base.

Herbs for a delicious summer drink: Take a large handful of fresh herbs, such as basil, thyme, and mint—or whatever you have in the garden. Sage and rosemary should be used in moderation, as these are quite strong. Add to the hot syrup and simmer for about 10 minutes, until the scent of herbs is obvious.

Ginger for a refreshing soda or hot tea: Peel and dice 1 large piece of ginger (about ¼ pound); add to medium simple syrup. Boil, then reduce heat and cook over medium heat for about 15 minutes.

Orange for a delicious soda: Zest 2 medium oranges and add to the syrup, along with juice squeezed from the oranges. Cook 10 more minutes. Let cool. It is great as a sweetener for iced tea or with soda water for a light orange soda.

To finish all syrup flavors: Pour mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, reserving the syrup and discarding the solids. Pour the flavored syrup into a tightly covered bottle and store in the refrigerator.

To make an herbal, ginger, or orange soda: Pour 1 tablespoon or more syrup into the bottom of a tall drinking glass. Add a few inches of bubbly water and stir. Add ice cubes and pour additional bubbly water until the glass is nearly full. Stir again.

To make ginger tea: Add 1 tablespoon or more ginger syrup to a mug. Pour in barely boiling water and stir.

EVERYDAY VINAIGRETTE

Great on butter lettuce or other soft lettuce. Sherry vinegar is often from Spain and can be purchased in most quality markets.

Makes about ¾ cup

INGREDIENTS

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup or more vinegar (my favorite is a good-quality sherry vinegar)

Large pinch kosher salt

Several grinds black pepper

Small pinch sugar

2 to 3 cloves garlic—use garlic press or mince very finely

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

METHOD

– Combine all ingredients and whisk until thickened.

– Taste and adjust for seasoning; add more oil if too vinegary.

– Serve at room temperature but store in the refrigerator.

TRY THIS: A delicious variation of Everyday Vinaigrette requires just a few ingredient substitutions. For a lighter version, replace olive oil with ¼ cup olive oil and ¼ cup grapeseed oil. Replace the Dijon mustard with the juice of half a blood orange. Replace the sherry vinegar with ¼ cup balsamic vinegar (avoid the aged syrupy version). Add 2 additional cloves garlic, pressed or finely minced. Mix all ingredients but the oil together and taste. Drizzle the oil in while mixing; this will help the mixture emulsify for a thicker dressing. The dressing should be very garlicky with a sweet undertone.

FOOD SOURCES: Extra-virgin olive oil means it is unrefined; that is, produced without chemicals (a good thing!). Look for oil that is packaged in glass bottles, which prevents chemicals from leaching into the oil. First press means nothing, as there is no second press, but check the pressing or packaging date for freshness. California-produced olive oils score well on comparative taste tests, so try your farmers’ market producers. Now, for vinegars: a confusing array if there ever was one. I change up my vinegars depending on the type of salad made; they last indefinitely, so it is reasonable to have several types on hand. Frequently used vinegars for salads are sherry or champagne vinegar, which offer a bit of sweetness to vinegar’s tang. Nicole’s Market & Café and Surfas Culinary District carry a good selection of vinegars and olive oils. And last but not least is honey. For a real education, visit Victor Jaramillo, “the oldest beekeeper in the country.” He sells gorgeous honey made from his hives in El Sereno (see page 231).

WALNUT OR HAZELNUT DRESSING

Best used for “sweet” salads, such as mixed greens, dried cranberries, and goat cheese.

Makes ¾ cup dressing

INGREDIENTS

¼ cup hazelnuts or walnuts, toasted

½ cup grapeseed oil (if using hazelnuts, hazelnut oil adds great flavor)

¼ cup champagne or sherry vinegar

2 cloves garlic, pressed

1 tablespoon honey

Large pinch kosher salt

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

METHOD

– Place hazelnuts or walnuts in large mortar and pestle and mash.

– Add oil, vinegar, garlic, honey, salt, and mustard and whisk until thickened.

BLUE CHEESE SALAD DRESSING

Best on romaine lettuce with ripe tomatoes; it is excellent with additional crumbles of blue cheese.

Makes about 2 cups

INGREDIENTS

4 ounces Roquefort or Maytag blue cheese, chopped or crumbled

1 cup mayonnaise

1 cup heavy cream or ½ cup plain Greek yogurt

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar or 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

METHOD

– Place Roquefort or blue cheese, mayonnaise, cream or yogurt, vinegar or lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl.

– Mash with a fork until relatively smooth. Store in a covered jar in the refrigerator. For chunkier dressing, reserve a third of the cheese, break into small chunks, and add after mixing.

FOOD SOURCE: It is not necessary to purchase expensive Roquefort or blue cheese for this recipe. I often go to Armen Market for their gorgonzola.

A SAMPLING OF MINH’S PANTRY ESSENTIALS

Minh Phan’s beautiful food usually starts with a base, such as her signature porridges, whose subtle taste allows for the addition of more intense flavors that come from personally crafted pantry items. Her judicious and informed use of simple-to-make ingredients yields unique and complex flavors. I have found that these ingredients serve as a kit of parts, interchangeable and applicable to my own food as well.

MINH’S NEGI OIL

Makes approximately 1 cup

INGREDIENTS

1 bunch Negi (Japanese onions) or green onions, finely sliced, green sections separated from white

1 cup grapeseed oil, divided

METHOD

– Place the white sections of the onions in a medium heat-proof bowl.

– In a small pan over a medium flame, heat ¾ cup oil.

– When the oil is hot (around 350°), remove pan from heat and add the remaining ¼ cup oil. The temperature of the oil will reduce to about 250°.

– Pour the oil over the white onion slices; let stand for 1 minute.

– Add the green sections of the onions.

– Cover the bowl and let onions steep at room temperature for 24 hours.

– Strain the oil into a pourable container, discarding the onions.

– Store Negi Oil, covered, in the refrigerator, for use as needed. It will last up to 2 weeks.

MINH’S MAKRUT COMPOUND BUTTER

Makes an 8-ounce roll or a small bowl

INGREDIENTS

⅓ cup cream

Salt to taste (Minh suggests Jacobsen’s salt)

12 to 15 makrut leaves, washed, dried, and sliced into thin strips

Zest of 1 makrut lime (optional, as it is hard to find the limes for purchase)

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

METHOD

– Place cream and 1 or 2 pinches of salt in a 3-quart saucepan. Add the makrut leaves and steep over low heat for 5 to 10 minutes.

– Let mixture cool; remove makrut leaves, reserving a few strips if you don’t have zest.

– Mash cream and a pinch more salt into butter. Add zest, if available, or makrut strips.

– Place butter mixture on an 8-inch square of parchment paper, form into a roll, and twist the ends shut, or press mixture into a small bowl.

– Keep makrut butter in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 weeks.

Minh Phan’s “mise en place”: shallots, ginger, lemongrass, habanero chiles, fennel fronds, and amaranth, used for dishes such as Vegan Porridge (see page 130) and her other imaginative recipes.

MINH’S GERANIUM PICKLED BABY ONIONS

These are not only delicious, but absolutely beautiful, resembling tiny rose petals on a plate.

Makes 1 cup

INGREDIENTS

1 cup rice vinegar

¼ cup sugar

Pinch salt

½ cup water

½ cup rose geranium leaves, packed

¼ pound baby red pearl onions, outer skin peeled, and cut in half

METHOD

– In a 3-quart saucepan over high heat, stir rice vinegar, sugar, salt, and ½ cup water until sugar and salt are dissolved.

– Place geranium leaves in the bottom of a clean 16-ounce glass jar.

– Add onions, then pour hot vinegar mixture over onions and geranium leaves.

– The onions will become flavorful within 3 to 4 hours. Keep in the refrigerator, covered, up to 4 weeks.

MINH’S HABANERO AND KUMQUAT SALT

When prepping hot chiles such as habaneros, it is necessary to wear gloves.

Makes 1 cup

INGREDIENTS

10 kumquats, peels only

2 habanero chiles, cut in half, stem and seeds removed, cut into ¼-inch strips

1 cup kosher salt (Minh suggests Jacobsen’s salt)

METHOD

– Place kumquat peels and chiles on a rack set onto a half-sheet baking pan for air circulation. Place the pan in a warm oven overnight.

– Grind the kumquat peels, chiles, and salt in a mortar and pestle or pulse in a food processor to combine.

– Pour salt mixture onto a parchment-lined baking pan; place on your kitchen counter to dry overnight.

– Store salt in a tightly sealed jar. It will keep indefinitely.

FOOD SOURCES: Negi at Thao Family, T & D, and Yasutomi farms, which have booths at the Hollywood Farmers’ Market. Makrut limes and leaves are at most Asian markets, including 168 Market, H Mart, and Marukai Market. If you don’t have access to geranium leaves, any edible floral leaf or floral substitute, such as citrus, marigolds, jasmine, and basil flowers, will work. I rely on neighborhood foraging, with permission.

ROASTED PEPPERS

Preheat oven to 450°.

INGREDIENTS

6 to 8 red, orange, and yellow sweet peppers

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil to coat the peppers

Good-size pinch kosher salt

METHOD

– Slice off the top of each pepper or twist off stem and remove the pith and seeds by pulling these out through the top of the pepper.

– Cut each pepper into 6 to 8 pieces lengthwise. Combine with olive oil and salt in a large bowl so that peppers are lightly coated (I mix all by hand until combined).

– Spread on parchment-covered half-sheet pan. Place pan on middle rack of oven and roast for 20 to 30 minutes. The peppers’ skin should be wrinkled and brown in some places, and the peppers should have shrunk as their juices released.

– Remove from oven. Tip peppers into a bowl and cover with plastic wrap.

– When they have cooled, remove the skin by pulling it off carefully. Store peppers in a covered jar. These keep up to a week in the refrigerator.

TRY THIS: These peppers make a delicious addition to a sandwich (goat cheese with Roasted Peppers, for example, or on top of an open-face melted-cheese sandwich); to a salad with goat cheese and arugula or other spicy greens; or to pasta with butter and parmesan. They also make an excellent accompaniment to roasted chicken or pork.

You may use the same method for roasting poblano or other chiles with heat. These are great with quesadillas or other Mexican-influenced foods. Wear rubber gloves when peeling hot peppers, as the capsaicin oil in these peppers can burn your skin, eyes, and anywhere you touch.

FOOD SOURCES: I often rely on Armenian or Mexican markets. The peppers are gorgeous, fresh, and of a variety rarely seen. Don’t be afraid to ask a friendly store clerk or shopper about heat level and use. I have learned a lot from these folk. Armen Market, Super King Markets, and Vallarta Supermarkets are all great places for peppers and for produce in general.

TAKA’S PICKLES

As you can probably tell, I like pickles. One of my favorites is the Japanese pickle called Tsukemono. This recipe has history, coming from my friend Taka Suzuki’s mother. These are delicious as a light salad on their own or served as a contrast to a rich protein, such as salmon or black cod.

Makes 6 pints

INGREDIENTS

3 pounds Persian cucumbers, cut into spears

6 tablespoons salt

10 cups water, divided

6 cloves garlic, crushed

6 generous slices fresh peeled ginger

6 whole dried red peppers (Tianjin red chiles are a good choice)

1 cup white vinegar

8 tablespoons sugar

METHOD

– Sterilize 6 large-mouth pint Mason jars (I run them through a cycle in my dishwasher).

– Place cucumber spears into a large heat-proof bowl.

– Place salt and 2 cups water in a 3-quart saucepan; bring to a boil over high heat.

– Pour the hot, salted water over the cucumbers and let sit, uncovered, for 1 hour.

– Drain cucumbers.

– Into each sterilized jar add 1 clove garlic, 1 slice ginger, 1 dried pepper, and as many cucumber spears as will fit.

– Combine vinegar, sugar, and 8 cups water in a large bowl; mix until sugar is dissolved.

– Pour pickling mixture into each jar and affix lid.

– Refrigerate immediately. Store pickles for up to 1 month.

TRY THIS: Add 5 to 6 thin slices peeled ginger or 3 to 4 sprigs fresh dill per jar.

FOOD SOURCES: Armenian and Asian markets such as 168 Market, Armen Market, H Mart, and Marukai Market have good Persian cucumbers for a reasonable price.

MARGIE’S SWEET AND SOUR CUCUMBERS

My stepmother Margie’s Scandinavian heritage is revealed in this recipe.

Makes 1 quart

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