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CHAPTER 2

WHY RESTORE YOUR BEETLE?

The definition of “labor of love” should include “car restoration” as part of the definition. This project you’re considering is going to test your patience, skills, wallet, and maybe even your marriage and other personal relationships. There are a lot of other ways you can spend the next several months or years. Even if you’re one of the best bargain hunters out there, you won’t come out of this project without it costing an arm, a leg, and maybe a couple of other treasured body parts.

And after all the blood, sweat, and tears you pour into this labor of love, the end result will still be a VW Beetle. Before you start dreaming of jaw-dropping numbers at a classic car auction, it’s important to face this reality: You may or may not ever get a return on your investment.

Still reading? Great! Because in return for all the work and money you’re about to spend on this project, you’re also setting out on the adventure of a lifetime. You’ll be bringing a piece of history to life. You’ll know your car inside out. You’ll develop skills and knowledge that will serve you well for as long as you have your car. And you may also wind up with a Beetle that draws stares and drops jaws.

Let’s make sure you know your options and have a few basic requirements covered so your project gets off to a good start.

Restoration Options

“I want to restore my Beetle.” It sounds simple enough, but that little statement can have many different meanings. It’s important to understand the nomenclature before you dig in. Here’s a quick and dirty glossary for restoration types:

DIY Restoration

Overall, you’re planning to do the work yourself. However, you might hire an engine shop, transmission specialist, or sandblasting service to take care of some of the tasks.

Pro Restoration

You entrust your Beetle to a professional restoration shop or even have the shop source a project car for you.

Resurrection Restoration

Your goal here is to do whatever is needed just to make sure your Beetle will run, go, and stop.

Partial Restoration

You’ll do a complete restoration on just some of the subcomponents, leaving the rest alone. Included here is the mechanical restoration, in which you leave the body and upholstery alone but restore the mechanical systems.

This 1975 Super Beetle convertible came in with a shocking surprise in the electrical system: all red wiring. It left the shop after a partial reconstruction rocking a new top, new brakes, and a refreshed engine. The electrical system was cleaned up from previous wiring hacks and contacts were cleaned, polished, and reconnected with the appropriate factory-spec wire.

A mild stock restoration was done to this 1970 Beetle. It had the stance and paint finish similar to how it rolled off the factory floor to go with its refurbished engine. The goal was to match the stock factory specifications as closely as possible.

Stock Restoration

The goal here is to get your Beetle as close to how it was when it rolled off the factory line.

Custom Restoration

If you’ve seen it done, or even just imagined it, you can probably do it to your Beetle. Remember that just because you can doesn’t mean you should. Many custom touches cause a domino effect. For example, that 1,914-cc engine you’ve been drooling over will require an upgraded suspension, transmission, and brakes.

For this 1965 Beetle’s custom restoration, the chrome molding was removed and the front turn signals were shaved and incorporated into the front lower fender. The paint finish was completely custom with the one-off paint formulations (Tuxedo Black and Jolly Rancher Green) created in-house. The decklid featured one-off custom airbrushed artwork. Even the interior was custom with Italian leather upholstered seats.

Body Restoration

Unless your Beetle is miraculously free of rust, you will probably want to restore the body. There are a few different options to consider:

Patina: Simply address any structural issues and then leave the paint alone to show off the ravages of time until it rusts into dust.

Candy Patina: Add a protective clear finish over that lovely patina to give it a bit of shine. That clear coat will slow the progress of the rust from the outside, but the body will still rust from the back side of the panels.

Shiny: There’s a lot of work that goes into shiny. You’ll want to get your panels as straight as possible, replace any areas that are rusty, and then paint and polish to show off your work. This restoration and finish is the best way to slow the rusting process significantly. You can’t stop rust because it’s a natural electrochemical process, but you can sure slow it down.

Tetanus is a 1956 patina Beetle that by all rights should not be on the road anymore. Held together by goodwill and positive thoughts, the rust particles of this patina Beetle cheat death on a regular basis.

Things to Consider

There are a few things to consider when deciding which type of restoration you want to do.

Boasting custom paint created in-house and countless hours of polishing and perfecting, Miss Mabel won People’s Choice at the 2015 Ultimate VW Build-Off in Las Vegas.

How Long Will It Take?

Asking how long your Beetle restoration will take is a bit like asking how long a piece of rope is. It all depends. A professional restoration shop can finish a fairly stock restoration in as little as three to six months, assuming the client’s cash keeps flowing and the build plan doesn’t get changed dramatically during the process. For a hobbyist, the same restoration might take as little as 18 months, or it could take decades. It all depends on how much time and money you can devote to your project and whether you’re going for a stock look or a full custom restoration.

Do You Have the Space You Need?

It’s best if you have at least a one-car garage you can use for this project. More space is nice of course. You need enough room to move around, store tools, and keep parts corralled and accessible.

How Handy Do You Need to Be?

The skills you have when you begin your project will pale in comparison to the skills you’ll have when you finish it. Probably the most important skill you’ll need is the ability to follow directions. While the aim of this book is to take you step by step through your restoration, you may have questions along the way. There are tutorials for nearly every task under the sun online. Go to enthusiast forums, live video tutorials, and social media to answer questions you have.

At least once during your restoration project, you’re going to be stumped, frustrated, or feel clueless. The best advice we can give is, “Don’t give up!” Restoration is just as much art as it is science. If you stick with the project and keep looking for solutions when you hit bumps in the road, you’ll figure out how to solve any problem you encounter.

What Tools Do You Need?

Having the right tool makes doing a job right a whole lot easier. Stock your work area as well as you can. Use the right tool instead of brute force and you’ll get better results and less muscle fatigue. As Spook says, “Finesse, not force.”

You could spend a small fortune outfitting your toolbox, but here are the basics you really need for your restoration:

While having an enormous workshop for your restoration project would be a dream come true for most hobbyists, all you really need is a one-car garage. It’s important to have enough room to move around and work without bumping into your project or the walls.

Air compressor: This is a must-have item. Buy the best, most-powerful air compressor you can afford. You want one that can handle the workload ahead.

Air files: You’ll connect this to your air compressor and use it on your initial pass to file away any body filler material you use, even in tight spots. It’s a lot faster than sanding by hand.

Air lines: If you’re using air tools and compressed air, you’ve got to have a way to connect them to each other.

Body hammers and dollies: If your project car has dents (and that’s nearly guaranteed), using a combination of hammer and dolly to move the steel back into place will give you the power to push low spots up and flatten high areas.

Breaker bar: You’ll need a 1/2 inch and a 3/8 inch, as well as sockets to use with them. Remember, the longer the breaker bar, the more leverage you’ll get.

Die grinder: This tool is an absolute must if you have rust or dents that require cutting out the area to fix the problem. They can reach areas a sander can’t, so they’re also useful for stripping painted surfaces to get to the bare metal.

An air line connects your air tools to the compressor. Spend a bit more on a good air line; a cheap one will break down and allow contamination in your project’s finish. Be sure to inspect your air line monthly.

Long-handle file boards: You’ll get better results when you shape by hand rather than using air files. The boards give you a flat, rigid surface so you can level surfaces more easily.

MIG welder: This is another must-have item, and you’ll want to invest in a good welder from a reputable manufacturer. A metal inert gas (MIG) welder creates an arc between the wire electrode and the metal you’re welding. The arc heats the surface, melting them enough to join them together.

Paint guns: You’ll be spraying sealer, primer, paint, and clear, so there will be a lot of opportunities to practice your paint skills. While you can buy inexpensive guns, it’s nearly guaranteed you will be disappointed with your results. Buy the best you can get. You won’t regret it.

Pry bars: Get a full set. They are excellent for pulling parts apart rather than trying to use brute strength, which is more likely to damage the surface and send you flying across the garage.

Hammers and dollies can be purchased in a basic kit, which will give you a range of sizes, shapes, and faces. You will also need die grinders and angle grinders, which are also available in kits and individual units. A set of stones, cut-off wheels, and a selection of sanding discs and pads will also be used during your restoration project.

Ratchets and sockets: Get a full set of metric ratchets and sockets.

Screwdrivers: A full set is needed. It’s a lot easier to use a screwdriver that’s the right size for the task at hand than trying to make one work that’s too big or too small.

Wrenches: Get a full set of metric open-end wrenches. You need metric because you’re working on a German-built car.

Drop light (optional): You don’t absolutely need this, but it will sure make your work easier. There’s a lot of work in tight spots and dark corners ahead. The light’s protective cage makes it nearly indestructible, and the hook allows you to get the light you need without having to hold it.

Long-blocks are available by special order from local auto parts stores or online. You will use them to straighten panels that should be straight and curve panels that should be curved. Get an assortment of sizes; kits are available.

Uni-spotter nail welder (optional): Using this tool to pull dents out from the outside is much more effective than trying to punch a hole in the metal. A good brand to look at is Stinger.

This isn’t an exhaustive list of the tools that you will need, but it should get you well on your way to getting the job done in an efficient manner. Keep tools organized, clean, and ready to use so you don’t have to hunt for them every time you need them.

How Much Will Your Restoration Cost?

Again, this is a question that’s hard to answer. It all depends on choices you make during the project. Beetle restoration at a high-end shop could cost a small fortune because you’re entrusting your ride to specialists who won’t settle for anything less than near-perfect work. That level of work is pricey.

If you’re doing the restoration yourself, you will save a bundle on labor costs, of course. Using your own labor means all you really need to budget for is parts. The great news is you don’t need to buy everything at once. Your project will take a while, so you can spread your parts purchases out along the way.

Sourcing Project Cars

If you don’t have a Beetle to work on, where can you find a project car to restore? That used to be a small challenge. Now, it’s much easier to find project cars.

Professional-grade paint guns and an air file are shown. The air file connects to a compressor and is used to level and straighten panels. Essentially, it is a pneumatic-powered long-block.

Visit enthusiast web forums, such as TheSamba.com, to start your search. This website has been around forever and will become one of your favorite online haunts from here on out. There are always vehicles for sale, but you’ll also find advice and tons of parts and accessories.

Online classified advertisement sites may turn up a great project car for you. Do your due diligence to make sure you’re dealing with a reputable seller. Your local newspaper’s classified advertisement listings may be online these days, or you could break down and buy a print copy. It’s not all that likely that you’ll find a Beetle in these listings, but if you’re in or near a city, especially in areas where classic cars are popular, you might find one.

Some auto restoration companies will help you source a project car. For a fee, they’ll handle locating a car, inspecting it, and reporting back to you. Some will even transport the car from the seller to you.

Another option is to attend car shows and look at what’s for sale. Many hobbyists find their cars at shows sponsored by local clubs. You’ll find cars that people bought with every intention of doing a restoration but never got around to. You’ll find cars that have been partially restored or even just disassembled. You might even find cars that have undergone restoration already, which could decrease or even eliminate your restoration work completely.

Here is a set of open-ended wrenches and sockets (metric), screwdrivers, clamps, and pry bars. This is an extended set of homeowner tools, giving you almost every size you will need.

Visit local scrap yards and wrecking companies. Most of the time, the cars they buy sit until someone buys it for replacement parts.

Finally, ask your friends. If you join a local VW club (and many hobbyists do), you’ll find a whole crowd of people who share your passion. They may know someone who’s selling a project car and will probably be willing to keep an eye out for a car you could buy.

Make a Plan

You’ve determined what type of restoration you want to do, you’ve gathered your tools, and you have your project car. Before you get started on that project, you have some planning to do. It’s time to put those ideas on paper so you can plan before you dive into the work of restoration. What works well is to create three different lists:

Parts Selection

There’s a tip that we hope you’ll hear loud and clear: buy the best parts and tools you can possibly afford. It’s always better to buy once rather than to buy cheaply and have to buy again. In some cases, it’s a matter of safety. In other cases, it’s more about durability. You’ll never regret buying well.■

Droplights similar to this cordless LED model are preferred. They are available online and from big-box retailers. Look for a model that is rechargeable and has a magnetic base so you can attach it to the car’s surface and have plenty of light as you work.

Got to Have: This list includes the repairs, replacements, and upgrades your Beetle absolutely must have so it’s safe, reliable, and no longer in danger of rusting into dust.

Nice to Have: This list includes the items from the Got to Have list and includes some extras. Add items it will take to make it more comfortable, faster, safer, and even better looking.

Money’s No Object: This list includes the first two lists, but then it goes a little crazy. Do you want to add air-conditioning, a custom interior, go-fast goodies, or an ear-splitting sound system? Whatever tickles your fancy, add it to this list. You never know when you might find a way to include some of these in your build. Including them on this list keeps them on your radar so you’ll remember to jump on the opportunity to get them.

When it comes to your project, for sure you’ll tackle all the tasks on the Got to Have list. You’ll pick through the items on the Nice to Have list and add whatever makes sense for your budget and skill set. Then, pick one or two items from the Money’s No Object list to add to your ride’s cool factor. The rest of the items may never make their way into the current restoration, but maybe someday you’ll do it all again, and it’s good to have a dream to chase.

Upgrades to Consider

When Beetles rolled off the VW factory lines, they were fine for their time. Today is another story. Surrounded by faster, bigger vehicles on the road, it’s a good idea to update a few items to make sure driving your Beetle isn’t ridiculously dangerous.

Switch Drum Brakes to Disc Brakes

Disc brakes weren’t available on Beetles until the early 1970s, although this was standard on Karmann Ghias a bit earlier. Reliable stopping power is not a luxury. With disc brakes, you’ll be able to stop with confidence.

Install a New Wiring Harness

Your original wiring harness has endured thousands of use cycles during its life. The insulation gets brittle with age, heat, and exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, environmental toxins, and chemicals. Ultimately, when two 12-volt circuits connect because the wiring insulation has failed, you wind up with a short and have to replace fuses constantly, or worse, have to put out a fire.

Evaluating Project Cars

The better the condition of your project car is from the start, the easier, faster, and less expensive your restoration will be. In other words, if you start with a rusting hunk of junk, you’re in for a bumpy and expensive ride. There comes a time when a classic car’s condition gets too rough to make restoration feasible. If you’re planning to restore a Beetle you already own, you’ll do whatever it takes to make it right. But if you’re sourcing a project car, you don’t have any emotional investment in the vehicle yet, so make sure you get the most solid project car you can.

If you know a lot about cars and automotive restoration already, you’ll probably feel comfortable evaluating a potential project car on your own. But if you’re new to the hobby or not sure what you’re looking at, you might want to get a second opinion before you buy.

Questions to Ask

• How complete is the car? Are all the parts there?

• How much rust does the car have?

• How many small, furry creatures have lived and died in that car? (They chew through the wiring, and you can get sick if you come in contact with their droppings during your restoration work.)

• How much damage has the car suffered? There are almost always dents, dings, and creases in cars this old.

• How well were those dents and dings repaired? You may run into some surprises along the way as you discover the many creative repair techniques that were used over the years. What’s important is to determine how hard or expensive it will be to fix those past repairs.

• What modifications have been made to this car? Do you like the mods? The more you have to correct, the longer and more expensive your restoration process will be.

As you hunt, keep in mind that nearly any vehicle that’s been around for decades is going to require a lot of work to restore. The ultimate creampuff (the car that someone’s grandmother bought and drove only to church, then parked in the garage for the next 40 years) is a myth.

How Much Rust Is Too Much Rust?

As relentless and powerful as it is, rust may be the ninth wonder of the world. No matter what preventative measure we take to protect steel, nature has its way. The chemical process of oxidization is unstoppable. The odds are slim that your project car will begin the restoration process completely rust-free.

When evaluating potential project cars, pay attention to the rust. Even extensive rust does not disqualify a car from being a good restoration candidate. Most enthusiasts would agree that rare models deserve restoration no matter what condition they are found in to start.

Don’t be scared off by rust, but take it seriously. That said, don’t bite off more than you can chew in the rust department. The more time and effort you need to put into the rust remediation process, the longer it will take to finish the restoration and hit the road. ■

A wiring harness was only meant to last 20 to 30 years. Push it too far and you’ll face electrical gremlins or worse. While you’re doing a restoration, it makes good sense to replace your harness both for safety reasons and to eliminate any incorrect fixes that have been done along the way.

Swap Incandescent for Halogen Lighting

Half of the secret of avoiding a nighttime collision is visibility. By upgrading your headlights to halogen, you’ll find it easier to see and be seen.

The original incandescent headlights produce a yellowish light that many drivers find too dim, either to see the road or to be seen by other drivers.

Add a Fire Extinguisher

With good maintenance, your restored Beetle is highly unlikely to catch on fire. That’s typically only an issue for people who have poorly maintained their engine or fuel delivery system. However, carrying a fire extinguisher is a smart idea in any vehicle. Be sure to get a carbon dioxide extinguisher available at any local auto parts store. A standard extinguisher will put out a fire, but the chemicals will eat your paint.

Install Ethanol-Rated Fuel Line and Components

Older rubber hoses will break down from the alcohol in ethanol, causing problems for your carburetor and engine.

Upgrade Anything Below a 1,600-cc Engine

In normal driving conditions, you’ll want an engine that can keep up with the other vehicles on the road. The little engines that came standard in Beetles were fine for their time and will probably serve you well if you only drive your car on special occasions. But if you plan to drive your Beetle regularly, a bigger engine is a safety must.

Ethanol eats rubber hoses. If you’d rather not have highly flammable fuel leaking through your fuel line in close proximity to a running engine, swap them for ethanol-rated hoses.

Check your friendly local auto parts store for a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher rather than a standard household version. Keep it in the front cabin of your Beetle so you can reach it if you need it.

Today’s vehicles are built to go faster than they were several decades ago. While you’re on the road in your Beetle, safety means being able to keep up in traffic. Now’s a good time to look at getting a bigger engine.

Install Three-Point Seat Belts

Most Beetles produced in the United States after 1969 include provisions for swapping in three-point seat belts for the original lap belts. Besides, do you trust 30-, 40-, or 50-year-old lap belts?

Happy Parts Hunting

You have a project car and you’ve made a plan, so now it’s time to find missing parts or upgrade parts. Whether it’s a door handle or a hood, you have a hunting adventure ahead as you gather all the parts your Beetle needs.

If you want original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts, check forums and online groups. Just be prepared to restore and possibly retrofit these parts. There’s some variation in production runs, so it’s no shock to find they don’t fit perfectly out of the box.

There are hobbyists who restore individual subcomponents to a detailed level. Search them out. They are great at what they do, and it will be well worth the price.

There’s also a large aftermarket parts industry. You can find a lot of what you need through aftermarket vendors. Purchase the highest quality you can manage.

If you aren’t set on a stock custom restoration, you might also consider repurposing parts from other vehicles for your project. There’s usually more than one way to use any object, and you can create a completely custom element for your project this way.

It’s worthwhile to check out small specialty parts retailers as well. Not all of them have websites, so you may need to visit in person. It is worth the trip if they have the parts you need, and even better if they have a VW parts manager who enjoys passing wisdom and lore along to other enthusiasts. You may find they’ve forgotten more VW knowledge than many folks ever know.

This banjo-style steering wheel is an example of a repurposed part. It was taken from an early 1960s Triumph and heavily modified to work in the Beetle. This is just one of the custom touches you’ll find in Miss Mabel.

Miss Mabel’s gauges are another example of creative recycling and repurposing. They are now housed in a set of 1950s Japanese microphones that were bought online, gutted, and repainted. They were a lot of work to refurbish, but it was well worth it.