Читать книгу Early History of the Colony of Victoria, Volume I - Francis Peter Labilliere - Страница 10

The Lady Nelson—Her departure from England—Adventures of the voyage—Instructions for her proceedings—Stay at and departure from the Cape—Grant's remarks "on coming in with the land of New Holland"—He discovers and names chief points on Victorian coast west of Port Phillip—Observations in passing Wilson's Promontory—Arrival at Sydney—First ship from England through Bass's Strait—Governor King's account of Grant's and other discoveries in the Straits—Curious conjectures about an Australian Mediterranean.

THE discoveries of Lieutenant Grant, in command of the Lady Nelson, are next in order of date. An account of them was published in London in 1803.* The particulars contained in this chapter are; derived from that work, except where other sources of information are indicated. Grant begins by dilating upon the advantages of the sliding keels possessed by the Lady Nelson—an invention which he informs us was made in America, during the War of Independence, by his friend Captain John Schank, "of the Royal Navy, formerly one of the Commissioners of the Transport Board." The name of this gentleman is borne by the well-known Cape in Victoria. A very good plate of the Lady Nelson is given in the work; and certainly everything connected with this historical little craft—her achievements and ultimate fate—deserves to be bound up with the history of that important territory of the Empire, so large a portion of the coasts of which were first discovered and made known to the world by her officers and crew.

[* The title of the volume is "The Narrative of a Voyage of Discovery performed in his Majesty's Vessel the Lady Nelson, of Sixty Tons Burden, with Sliding Keels, in the Years 1800, 1801, and 1802, to New South Wales. By James Grant, Lieutenant in the Royal Navy." Published 1803.]

It appears that on the thirteenth day of the present century, "the Lady Nelson hauled out of Deadman's Dock into the river, having her complement of men, stores, and provisions on board," and that the latter "were of the best kind," and "calculated for fifteen men for nine months, and the water for six months." She was also "supplied with abundance of anti-scorbutics." His ship arrived at Gravesend on the 16th, and Grant expresses satisfaction at her working so well, but, he adds, "few who saw us pass that did not say something against so small a vessel destined for a long voyage. The general appellation we got was that of his Majesty's Tinder-box."

The Downs were reached on the 20th, where a very large convoy had been lying at anchor nearly a month, detained by westerly winds. There, on the night of the 23rd, the little vessel gave good promise of her capabilities to encounter the storms she had to meet, by riding out a gale which drove six of her companion ships on shore; on the 26th she rode out another, and then ran into Ramsgate harbour, where she was detained till the evening of February 7th. Spithead was reached on the 8th, and Portsmouth harbour on the 9th. At Gosport she received four "brass carriage guns. . . . from three to four pounders," in addition to the two on board, and was so fully furnished with small-arms, ammunition, provisions, supplies, &c., as to become very deep in the water, "insomuch," says Grant, "that we had only two feet nine inches clear abreast the gangway. Many people who saw the Lady Nelson reckoned her unfit for so long a voyage, which gave me much trouble to keep the crew together." Grant, however, observed to Captain Schank, who visited the ship before her departure, "that a short time at sea, with the consumption of fuel and provisions, would bring us to the proper equilibrium."

Having from this cause, and from the demand for their services, lost some of his crew, Grant left Portsmouth on March 17th, with a convoy under Captain Durham of the Anson, and on 18th they took their departure from Dunnose in the Isle of Wight. On the 20th, the convoy fleet got away from the Lady Nelson, and she was taken in tow by "the Brunswick, East Indiaman, commanded by Captain Grant," but on the 23rd, in consequence of the increase of the wind, the ships were disconnected, the people on board the Brunswick supposing that Grant intended returning to Spithead, "as deeming it impracticable to go on."

There was not much reason to apprehend danger from enemies' ships, as appears from the first of the three following letters ** of instruction. It is dated Whitehall, February 21st, 1800, and addressed to Grant:—

[** In the Record Office.]

"SIR,—I transmit to you, enclosed, the open Instructions which, by his Majesty's commands, I have given to the Governor of New South Wales, and which are to be followed in making the surveys and discoveries for which the Lady Nelson, under your command, has been fitted out and provided. As vessels fitted out for this purpose have always been respected by the nations of Europe, notwithstanding actual hostilities may at the time have existed between them; and as their country has always manifested the greatest attention to other nations on similar occasions, as you will perceive by the letters written in favour of vessels employed in discoveries by France and Spain, copies of which you receive enclosed, I have no apprehension whatever of your suffering any hindrance or molestation from the ships of either of those nations, should you fall in with them; with this view and the better to secure you against all hostility or interruption, the instructions enclosed, as well as this letter, are both left open, and you are to keep them so. You are also, on pain of his Majesty's utmost displeasure, to refrain on your part from making any prize of, or from detaining or molesting the ships of any other nation, although they may be at war with his Majesty.

"I am, &c.,

"PORTLAND."

The Duke's next letter, of February 26th, 1800, to the Governor of New South Wales, is important as directing the movements of the Lady Nelson, not only on her outward voyage, but in her subsequent explorations. The instructions are:—

"SIR,—You will receive this by the sloop, the Lady Nelson, which has been constructed and fitted out for the purpose of prosecuting the discovery and survey of the unknown parts of the coast of New Holland, and of ascertaining, as far as is practicable, the hydrography of that part of the globe. "The Lady Nelson is provided with a complete set of instruments, and every other article necessary for the attainment of that object, which are consigned to you, and are conformable to the enclosed list. "You are to take care to furnish the officer employed under you in this service with the necessary instructions, wherein you will particularly take care that he be directed to examine with diligence, and to survey and plan, with as much accuracy as circumstances will permit, all such coasts; and you will order him to take and lay down upon his chart all such soundings as he shall think likely to prove useful for the guidance of those who may navigate along those shores in future, to pay especial regard to the examination and accurate delineation of all such harbours as he shall discover and judge to be commodious for the reception of shipping, and also of such shoals and other dangers as he may from time to time meet with; to fix in all cases, when in his power, the positions, both in latitude and longitude, of remarkable headlands, bays, and harbours by astronomical observations; also to observe the variation of the needle and the right direction and course of the tides and currents, and to record all such observations in his journal with the most minute exactness. "The survey of the Southern or South-Western coast of the country appears to be of the most immediate importance. The probable benefits of the whale fishery, and the shortening the passage through the Straits, which are discovered to exist between the main and the group of islands known at present by the name of Van Diemen's Land, would be of high importance. The group of islands, themselves affording (as one of them is known to do) an excellent harbour, is worthy of particular attention. When any considerable river is discovered, you are to order him to navigate up the same as far as the Lady Nelson can proceed with safety, carefully planning the course and the banks of it, and noting the soundings as he proceeds, and to land as often as he sees reason to suppose that any considerable variation has taken place either in the productions of the soil or the customs of the inhabitants, and to examine the country as far inland as he shall think it prudent to venture with the small number of persons who can be spared from the charge of the vessel, whenever there appears to him a probability of discovering anything useful to the commerce or manufactories of Great Britain. He will note in his journal, in all places where he shall land, either on the sea coast or the banks of a river, his opinion of the comparative fertility of the soil, which may best be judged of by the size of the trees and the degree of vigour with which trees, shrubs, and plants appear to him to grow; as also such articles of the produce of the soil and the manners of the inhabitants as he shall deem worthy of notice; and in all places which appear to him of any importance to Great Britain, either on account of the shelter for shipping or the probable utility of the produce of the soil, he is to take possession in his Majesty's name, with the consent of the inhabitants, if any, under a discharge of musquetry and artillery, and to record the whole proceedings at length both in his log-book and his journal; and, if uninhabited, to set up some proper inscription as first discoverer and possessor. He is to plant such seeds of fruit-trees and useful vegetables as he shall be supplied with, near to such landing-places as he may discover, in which a safe and commodious anchorage and easy landing render it likely that ships may hereafter frequent, and where the soil appears most fertile and productive; and to collect in all places such seeds of trees, plants, shrubs, and grasses as he shall find in a state of maturity, and judge to be worthy of notice, either from their beauty, their particularity, or their possible utility; and to collect such specimens of vegetables, animals, and minerals as he shall think likely to prove interesting to naturalists at home. "In case of any person being sent with him to assist him as a collector of natural history, he will confine himself in some degree to the more immediate business of the naval department, and at all times, when he can be usefully employed in the business of surveying, he is to leave the collecting and preparing of seeds and specimens to the care of the collector. "He is to assist the collector, as much as the nature of the service will permit, by sending him in boats to such places as appear likely to be productive of curiosities, and by sparing men both to assist him in carrying such heavy articles as he may have occasion for on shore, or as he may think proper to bring on board; as also to accompany him for his defence against the natives, and to facilitate, as much as possible, all such researches as tend to procure a knowledge of the natural history of the country, the customs of the inhabitants, and the advantages of the produce to the trade and manufactures of Great Britain. He is, however, to deliver to you on his return the original journals in which his proceedings of all kinds have been minuted, and the plans, charts, drawings, and sketches he has made tending to illustrate the hydrography, geography, or natural history of the country; and also all such seeds of plants, trees, and specimens of animals, vegetables, or minerals, and such articles of the dresses and arms of the natives as you shall think worthy the attention of his Majesty's Ministers or of the Royal Society, to be transmitted by you to his Majesty's Secretary of State for the Home Department.

"I am, &c.,

"PORTLAND."

But, to notice the leading incidents of the voyage before the Lady Nelson reached the fields of discovery—two days after parting from the Brunswick, she was chased by the Hussar frigate, in charge of a West Indian convoy, on suspicion of being an enemy's cruiser, and next day some of the ships of the convoy, in like manner, mistook the Lady Nelson, and did their best to get out of her way, "One of them," says Grant, "much to his credit, hove to and fired a shot, almost plump on board of us. After hoisting his colours, I showed him ours, when he stood on. Another vessel, the Hope of Liverpool, I could hardly keep clear of; for the more I endeavoured to avoid him, the more he attempted to get near me, insomuch that we were near running on board each other. He asked me very haughtily who I was and where I came from; I replied by hoisting my pendant and colours. Nevertheless, he was not satisfied, and, as he had no force, I believe he intended, if he could, to have run me down."

On April 13th, Grant put into St. Jago, which he left on the 27th. Here two lads of the crew made off with one of the boats, but were captured by the Portuguese authorities and conducted into the town, "both riding on one ass," amidst "the ridicule of the inhabitants". The second mate, who had sown the seeds of disaffection, was delivered to the Governor to be put on board the first British vessel. With the Governor's permission, also, there were "entered on the ship's books two young men, making up the crew to twelve in all." Grant afterwards speaks of his sailors as "young and inexperienced lads," but says "they had become so alert and attentive . . . . as to demand my highest praise." He describes an unsuccessful expedition he made in the island to shoot wild guinea-fowl.

During the progress of the voyage to the Cape, a brig was met, whose captain came on board, and, Grant records, "asked one of my men whether I was not a little mad, for he could not credit the story, I told him of our going on a voyage of discovery." On July 8th, anchor was cast in Table Bay, and on 17th in Simon's Bay. Though upwards of a hundred days out, the Lady Nelson sustained no loss or damage of canvas, spars, or boats, but her sliding-keels were broken off.

Before she left the Cape, a ship called the Wellesley arrived with Government stores. Having parted from her convoy, she was attacked, but with the aid of the passengers beat off a French vessel. Grant mentions that the Wellesley brought directions to him to proceed through Bass's Straits, and they are doubtless those contained in the letter, the date of which, being subsequent to the sailing of the Lady Nelson from England, at first puzzled the author, when he procured this copy of the document at the Record Office:—

"Whitehall, 5th April, 1800.

"SIR,—Having received information from Port Jackson, in New South Wales, that a navigable strait has been discovered between that country and Van Diemen's Land, in latitude 38°, which has been lately passed through by a lieutenant of the Reliance, who afterwards returned round the South Cape, it is his Majesty's pleasure that you should sail through the said strait in your way to Port Jackson, by which means you will not only shorten your voyage, but will have an opportunity of more minutely surveying the said strait, and of applying your instructions, as far as circumstances will admit of it, to this part of your route.

"I am, &c.,

"PORTLAND."

Grant says that, while at the Cape, he "was often teazed with groundless fears and apprehensions formed by idle people, on account of the seas which so small and singularly constructed a vessel as mine had to encounter in the run from the Cape to New Holland. However, the winter passage we had already made with so much safety, joined to the good opinion the crew entertained of the Lady Nelson, and their determination not to quit me, brought us many visitors and numbers of volunteers from different ships in the bay." He, however, declined all offers, "to the disappointment of many," except of an eccentric Dr. Brandt, whom he received on board, together with his baboon and dog, and also a carpenter, of whom he was in need. To oblige Admiral Sir Roger Curtis, he also consented to convey a Dane, who was sentenced to transportation to New South Wales, but whose emancipation he obtained soon after his arrival—the man having behaved remarkably well during the voyage.

On October 7th, Grant took his departure from the Cape, having "bid adieu to many who came down to see the little vessel depart, most of whom entertained doubts of our ever reaching New South Wales."

November 2nd, the Island of Amsterdam was passed, an ineffectual attempt being made to gain the anchoring ground.

The long. on November 23rd was 130°E., lat. 38° 31' S. They "had now crossed Captain Vancouver's track, which is the farthest eastward of any laid down in this parallel of latitude." In the evening of December 2nd, "one of those long flies, known by the name of horse-stingers, came on board, and," Grant says, "was a stronger proof of land being near than any we had yet seen." At eight next morning it was visible "right ahead, appearing like unconnected islands, being four in number, distant six or seven leagues." Grant calculated the western point of land to lie in 142° E.

The following is a copy of the original report of the discovery of an extensive portion of the coast of Victoria, furnished by Grant to Governor King. Although published by the former in his account of the voyage, it is desirable that it should be reproduced, as the work is old and scarce, and there is some little difference between it and the MS. report. It will be observed that many of the names originally given by Grant are still retained, though some have disappeared from the map of the Colony. A pen and ink chart is attached to the MS., similar to that printed in Grant's book. A blank is left in the coast-line in the vicinity of Port Phillip; the gulf or bight immediately outside it is marked Governor King's Bay, and the gulf from Wilson's Promontory to Western Port is called King George's Sound—a name which Grant, in the account of his subsequent voyage to Western Port, says it scarcely deserved. The gulf extending between Cape Otway and Wilson's Promontory is represented as forming a much deeper indentation of the coast than actually exists.

"Remarks *** on board the Lady Nelson, by Lieutenant James Grant, on coming in with the land of New Holland:—

[*** N. S. Wales Correspondence, Record Office.]

"December 3, 1800.—At daybreak, made all possible sail, judging myself to be in latitude 38° South.* At 8 a.m. saw the land from N. to E.N.E., the part that was right ahead appearing like unconnected islands, being four in number, which, on our nearer approach, turned out to be two capes and two high mountains, a considerable way inshore, one of them being like the Table Hill at the Cape of Good Hope; the other stands further in the country. Both are covered with large trees, as is also the land, which is low and flat as far as the eye can reach. I have called the first of these hills Schanks Mountain, and the second Gambiers Mountain. The cape I call Cape Northumberland. Also another smaller but conspicuous jut of the land, which we plainly saw when abreast of Cape Northumberland, I named Cape Banks. When Cape Northumberland bears N.W. by W., distant eight or nine miles, Schanks Mountain bearing north, and Gambiers N. by E. from you, Schanks Mountain loses its table form and appears like a saddle. There does not appear to be any harbour so far, but there may be shelter under Cape Northumberland from N. and N.N.W. winds, as also between Cape Banks and it from easterly winds. The shore is in general a flat sandy beach, the sea at present making no breach upon it.

[* In margin—"Longitude worked back 141° 20' E."]

"December 4.—As we stood along the shore, steering east, saw the land as far as we could see, bearing S.E.; hauled close up for it. This forming a conspicuous cape, I named it Cape Bridgewater in honour of his Grace the Duke of Bridgewater. At seven, little wind and a heavy sea. The shore is a sandy beach, from where we made the land to this cape, and flat land covered with brushes and large woods inland. Found we could not weather Cape Bridgewater. Tacked occasionally, and got four oars on the lee side, which I kept employed all night; a heavy swell and baffling light winds from S.S.W. to S.E. In the morning, by day-break, weathered the cape six or seven miles, when another cape appeared bearing east by north about fifteen or sixteen miles distant, forming, with Cape Bridgewater, a very deep bay, and to appearance had shelter for anchorage, though much heavy swell. I was anxious to examine whether it was safe to enter in or not; the land appeared beautiful, rising gradually, full of woods. I being in doubt of clearing the shore, made me more anxious. I accordingly out boats and took with me two hands armed; there was then little wind but much sea, with gloomy weather. After getting in-shore about five miles, I found there was no shelter from southerly winds, and very deep water apparently all the way in. The ship had now hove to with a fresh wind at W.S.W., and, being very likely to blow with rain, I put back. The wind did not stand, and presently we plainly saw several fires on the shore. The sea still being very heavy, and no wind, got the launch ahead to tow. At noon it was a great matter of doubt whether I should not be forced to anchor; the bay being very deep, I could hardly clear it with a steady breeze. Our latitude was 38° 21', Cape Bridgewater then bearing N.W. by W. twelve or thirteen miles. I called the other Cape Nelson, after the ship. At one a light breeze, which, with the boat ahead, got us clear of the shore. "December 5, P.M.—Light airs and a very heavy rolling swell in upon the shore; saw several fires. We being rather too far into the bay, which is very deep, I was for some time very doubtful whether we should not be obliged to trust to our anchors—the boat still ahead, towing. A light breeze springing up, we got our head to the southward and shot out. The western cape of this bay I called Cape Bridgewater, and the eastern cape, Cape Nelson. This is a very deep bay, and, with southerly winds, ought carefully to be avoided. Cape Nelson bears from Cape Bridgewater E.N.E. fifteen or sixteen miles. The country is beautiful; apparently fine soil, plenty of grass, and full of wood. Towards evening, saw many fires a little way inland. A number of seals about, and porpoises. At six in the evening we had a moderate breeze from S.S.E., Cape Bridgewater bearing north by east four leagues, and Cape Nelson E.N.E., distant six leagues. Got in the boats. Tacked occasionally during the night, working to windward. At 5 a.m. saw another cape, which forms not unlike the Dedman in the Channel of England; it runs a considerable way into the sea, and makes its appearance, when to the westward, like a very long barn, as it appears arched on the top with a high bluff end towards the sea, not unlike the gavel of a house or barn. This I called Cape Solicitor.** Off this cape are two small islands; the largest makes like two distinct islands in two hummocks, joined by a neck of low land, which is not seen until pretty close, when a smaller island is seen a little further within the first. These I called Lawrence Islands.***

[** In his "Voyage" Grant says, "I named this land Sir William Grant's Cape."]

[*** In his book he adds, "after Captain Lawrence, one of the Elder Brethren of the Trinity House."]

"As they will be an excellent mark for making this part, and save much trouble to those who have not an opportunity to keep far enough to the northward to make Cape Northumberland, and as they are very remarkable, navigators will know where they are. As you draw abreast of these islands, the largest being to the southward, and which made in two hummocks, you will have its outer end from the shore appear like a square-topped tower, very high, and a particular white spot in the middle of it, which I take to proceed from the birds. The other end also is very high. This island will appear exactly as here described when it bears north or north by west half north, when you have an offing of ten or twelve miles from it. They bear from Cape Solicitor S.E. or S.E. by S. twelve miles distant, and there appears no danger between them and the shore. Cape Solicitor now loses its long form as you get to the eastward, and its particular shape, which was discernible when to the westward, hides itself now in a high bluff point, steep and inaccessible. The land round is moderately high; much wood, and apparently very pleasant; many fires about this cape. From Cape Solicitor the land runs to the northward as far as the eye can reach or discern from the mast-head, and forms a very large and deep bay. I now wished for the wind from the northward, so that I might explore it. There must, I think, be harbours in it, but, having the wind light from S.S.E., varying every quarter of an hour to E.S.E., it would be folly to spend so much time at present as that would require. The bottom of this bay is hardly discernible from the mast-head.

"December 6, P.M.—Light breezes and cloudy weather. Tacked occasionally, keeping the shore on board. At three, made a considerable large island, high and inaccessible on the sides. We had an opportunity of seeing apparently a good soil with grass on it, but no trees. This island bears about E.S.E. from Cape Solicitor. By a good observation at noon following, I made its latitude to be 38° 29' S., longitude by my account (reckoning from Cape Northumberland, which I suppose to be in 142° 30' E. of Greenwich) I make this island lay in 144° 40' E., it bearing from me, when the observation was taken, N.N.W., distant eighteen or twenty miles, my latitude observed being 38° 45' S. This island I named Lady Julian's Island, in honour of Lady Julian Peircy. Observed that we ran faster along the land than our distance from log would give us. I presume there is a considerable drift to the eastward. "December 7.—By the mean of four azimuths and amplitudes the variation is 2° 50' E. We had now fresh breezes and cloudy weather. I ran under a commanding sail during the night—the wind at S.S.W. and S.W. At daylight we saw the land making in a cape ahead; hauled up to clear it. This cape is due E.S.E. with a moderate offing from Cape Solicitor—distance, per log, 70 miles. As it is the eastern promontory of this deep and extensive bay, I named it Cape Albany Ottway, in honour of my much respected friend, William Albany Ottway, Esq., Captain Royal Navy, one of the Commissioners of the Transport Board. Another very high and considerable cape, bearing E.N.E. from Cape Albany Otway, I named Patten's Cape. This cape is from Albany Otway distant eight or ten miles E.N.E. ½ E. I also distinguished the bay by the name of Portland Bay, in honour of his Grace the Duke of Portland. The land about here is truly picturesque and beautiful, and resembles much the land about Mount Edgcomb, near Plymouth, which faces the Sound, as any I can compare it to.* It abounds in wood, very thick groves, and large trees; it is moderately high, but not mountainous. We saw no fires, most likely from the shore being inaccessible, and much surf breaking on it. From Cape Albany Otway, E.N.E. ten or twelve miles, lays another point of land, which shows, as you round Albany Otway to the eastward, to have a clump of trees regularly planted on its brow. It is rather high land, and I was inclined to think, from its projection, we could find anchorage under it, as we had a commanding breeze now at W.S.W. I bore it pretty close; but, as I approached it, I found several heavy breakers off at least six miles from shore; no rocks are to be seen. I called it Cape Danger and hauled off. In getting to the eastward I found no shelter nor any place where there was any likelihood of anchoring; but from the number of little juts and low points of land further to the northward and eastward, I was determined to try if any such place could be got, for I never saw a finer country, and the valleys appeared to have plenty of fresh water in them, which though not particularly in want of at present, yet it would be very acceptable. Firewood is rather scarce with us, therefore I wished to get some. At 11 a.m., after having read prayers to the people, it being Sunday, I out boats, manned and armed the launch, and went in search of a place to land in, if not to anchor the ship. I got within a cable's length and a half of the shore, and found the surf breaking so heavy that it was not at all prudent to attempt it. The shore was a sandy beach, with small rocks interspersed here and there. Even now I had no soundings with the hand lead-line, so that I verily believe the beach is steep too. I was very much disappointed to be so near, and obliged to go on board without setting my foot on this beautiful spot. It resembles the Isle of Wight as near as possible in appearance from the water, therefore I called this part of the coast, which falls into the bottom of the small bay from Cape Danger to the very low land which is distinguished by a long ridge of breakers off it, Wight Land, in honour of my friend Captain Wight, son-in-law to Commissioner Schank. I now returned on board, got the boats in, and by observation found the latitude to be 38° 52' S., about eight miles from the shore—Cape Danger bearing N.N.W., distant ten or twelve miles.

[* In the margin, beside this sentence is the following in Governor King's handwriting:—"Mr. Black in the Harbinger was close in with this land, and describes it nearly the same as Lieutenant Grant.—P.G.K."]

"December 8.—At half-past 12 p.m., bore away from the land, the wind being W.S.W. At one, having got sufficient offing, hove and got the boats in, and made sail to the eastward. At 8 p.m., Cape Albany Otway bearing west eighteen or twenty miles, we now made a very high and lofty cape, covered with trees down to the water's edge, as all the country round is. From this cape the land breaks short round to the northward, further than we can discern from the mast-head. I had now a fair wind, and might have done a great deal this night; but I had my doubts whether this land, which fell off to the northward, should not have been followed and kept on board, as from a small chart, which was given me by Sir Joseph Banks, which I have on board, I find, from the southernmost point of the Straits as far as they had then been surveyed, the land trained off to the northward in the same form, nearly as it did here from Cape Patten, with this difference, that the cape I allude to on the chart had several islands off from it, neither did the latitude exactly correspond, and the land which it gave, running to the northward, was low and bushy. The land here is high, with large forests of trees, and there are no islands to be seen; I therefore chose the middle road. I made snug sail and ran sixty miles E. I judged that, if it was a bay, I would see the eastern extreme of it. At daylight, however, we could see nothing anywhere but the looming of the land we had left from the mast-head. "I now bore up and ran N. by W., and at six I saw the land again ahead, forming a very deep bay, which I could not see the bottom of from the mast-head. At eight I saw the land bearing from me E.S.E., extending further to the southward than I could see. I now, being certain of my route, hauled up E.S.E., and named this bay Governor King's Bay. It is one of the longest we have yet met with. Cape Albany Otway forms the westernmost headland, and the South Cape the easternmost headland; the distance of about 120 miles due E.S.E. At noon it fell calm, the sun very sultry. Observed, in 39° S., mercury at 73° and 74°.**

[** The following note is in the margin:—"If such a deep bay as this actually exists, it favours the idea of New South Wales being insulated by a Mediterranean Sea; however, this the Lady Nelson must determine in the voyage she is now gone on.—P.G.K."]

"December 9, P.M.—Light airs, inclinable to calm. At 4 p.m. we could see several islands bearing E.S.E. The mainland seemed to have an opening in it to the northward of these islands, which I stood in for, but found it was another bay with low land. This bay runs into the main nearly east, the northermost cape of which I called Cape Liptrap in honour of my friend John Liptrap, Esq., London. The main now showed extending a considerable way to the southward, with several islands off the cape. I judged this was the point of land I looked for, from the colour of the water. I sounded; had fifty fathoms water, fine sand. South Cape distant nine or ten miles; the land abreast of the ship appearing to be no great distance off, and being stark calm, I got the boats out and sent the launch ahead to tow, while I, thinking I should have the pleasure of setting my foot on this fine country, certainly in such fine weather, set off for the nearest land, with two hands in the gig, ordering the ship to tow in after me, and, when the breeze sprang up, to get the launch in, and stand in for me. At noon, calm, hazy weather. Sounded in forty-one fathoms— sand and shells. "P.M.—Calm. I pulled in-shore for some islands laying off from the main at the western side of the South Cape, and made for the largest of them, which appeared to be most fertile, having taken some seeds to sow on it, if I should be able to land. I could not have believed the distance was so great as it proved to be—at least twelve miles from where I left the ship, and which, for some time before we had got in with the shore, we had lost sight of. At last we got in with the island, but, although not a breath of wind, we found it impossible to land on that side of it at least, it being steep, and a surf running very heavy on it; therefore, having no more time, as the ship was not insight, and it being two in the afternoon, I judged it prudent to get on board as fast as possible, which we effected by four o'clock. We had now a light breeze from the eastward; the weather was intolerably close and sultry, the mercury standing at 72° and 73°. Got in the boats and made sail to the southward. At seven, the wind at east freshened into a strong gale, and at eight it blew a thunder-storm with much heavy forked lightning; but, it being from a weather shore, I kept close at the wind in order to get to the southward of the islands laying off this cape, when on a sudden the wind shifted due west, very dark with heavy rain and lightning, which continued all night, the wind abating at twelve at night. In the morning it was calm, with hot, sultry weather. Again, at noon, I had a good observation in latitude 39° 30' S., the south part of the main or South Cape bearing N.W. by N., distant twenty miles, and longitude 147° 18' from a good lunar observation taken on the 8th. All round the western side, and even this far south of the cape, there is fifty fathoms, forty-five, and forty: white sand and broken shells. I called that space laying between Cape Liptrap and the South Cape, King George's Sound,*** and I have no doubt but there is a good harbour in the bight to the northward, eastward of the south cape, in the western side of which Cape Liptrap makes the northern head of. The land here is high, and the mountains covered with wood. Cape Liptrap is low and flat, as is the land in this bight, where I judge there is shelter. There is an island bearing from the western part of the South Cape, south, a little easterly about twelve miles from the shore; it is round and inaccessible on all sides, it bearing from me now N.W. by W., distant twenty miles. The above-mentioned island I called Redunder,* from its resemblance to that rock—a set of breakers to the southward and eastward of that rock, on which, though calm, the sea breaks much. Bearing now from me N.N.W. ¼ W., distant six miles. Islands to the eastward of me, there are five in number, the largest of which, from its resemblance to the Lion's Mount at the Cape of Good Hope, I called Sir Roger Curtis Island; it is high and inaccessible on the N.W. side, and is covered with small bushes to the top. The body of the same bearing from me now E.S.E. seven or eight miles, other two forming like hay-cocks, only with higher and more perpendicular, which stand at a considerable distance from each other, the largest of which bearing from me S.E. ¼ S., distant sixteen or seventeen miles. The smallest bearing from me S.E. by E., distant ten miles, and is nearly shut in with the S.E. end of Sir Roger Curtis Island. The fourth is a rock standing a considerable height out of the water, nearly in a position between the two sugar-loaf or haycock islands, bearing from me S.E. ¼ S. The fifth is a high, perpendicular, barren cliff, which is, as you get almost abreast of, formed like two joined at the bottom, rising to a sharp edge, and rugged at the top; it makes like a large tower or castle. I called it the Devil's Tower, it bearing from me E. by N., distant ten or twelve miles. An island in with the shore, bearing N.N.W., distant eighteen miles, which I named Moncur's Island; and another, bearing N. by E., sixteen or seventeen miles. Land, apparently an island, we can just see from the mast-head. It is here to be observed that these bearings were taken at noon, and, it being stark calm, the ship was nearly stationary. By a good observation the latitude was 39° 30', longitude 147° 18' E. of Greenwich, calculated from a lunar observation two days before. But I take the correct longitude to be 147° E. from my making the Ram Head, according to the best charts; therefore the bearings are laid down on my chart from 147° E. Sultry, close weather.**

[*** At the side of this sentence is the following:—"Certainly no sound or opening exists here, as Mr. Bass coasted it close in-shore in a whaleboat and landed.—P.G.K."]

[* "Rodondo" in the book.]

[** This note, like all King's others, is in red ink in margin:—"Mr. Bass, from whose authority Lieutenant Flinders has ascertained the position of Wilson's Promontory, places it in 38° 56' S., Lieutenant Grant in 39° 17', and Mr. Black in 39° 08'. As Mr. Bass's latitude is log computation, from his then in the whale-boat, which might be liable to error, I think a preference may be given to Lieutenant Grant's position, as he had the advantage of a very good sextant.—P.G.K."]

"We now having made the cape, which I presume is that laid down in the chart I have from Sir Joseph Banks, seen by Mr. Flinders, any further observation is unnecessary, as I find the land training along to the northward exactly as it is described by him.

"To his Excellency Governor King, &c. &c. &c., from his obedient servant,

(Signed)"JAMES GRANT.

"A true copy.

"PHILIP GIDLEY KING."

Grant informs us in his book that on the 10th he endeavoured, but unsuccessfully, to land from a boat on an island off Wilson's Promontory, which point is conspicuously marked on his chart "South Cape". One of the islands is described as "an immense rock, on one side perfectly round, with a large hole in the other, in the form of an arch, with a breastwork rising high enough above the level of the sea to preclude the water from getting into it; the hollow appeared as if scooped out by Art instead of by Nature. I gave it the name of the Hole in the Wall; and to the range of islands stretching along the main, Glennie's Islands, after Mr. George Glennie, a particular friend of Captain Schank's, to whom I was under personal obligations. On the summit of all these islands there was a thick bush growing, whereas the land of Cape Liptrap, already mentioned, exhibited a fine level country."

The Lady Nelson, having left England March 18th, entered the heads of Port Jackson at six in the evening of December 16th, after a passage of seventy-one days out from the Cape. She let go her anchors in Sydney Cove at half-past seven.

Grant may well be allowed to express "the satisfaction of" his "being the first vessel that ever pursued the same track across that vast ocean; as we have no traces of its being done, particularly from the Island of Amsterdam, viz., between the degrees of lat. 38° and 39½° S., until the Lady Nelson made the coast of New Holland in lat. 38°, and steering to the eastward along a tract of land nearly four degrees to the westward of any seen by Messrs. Bass and Flinders. . . . I now," continues the hero of the expedition, "reflect with much pleasure that I had conducted my little vessel safely out, which many judged impracticable, both in England and at the Cape, without any damage either in rigging, masts, or spars, besides fulfilling the Duke of Portland's orders to search for a passage through these Straits. Many able officers and seamen at the Cape thought it too hazardous an attempt in running down the land in such a high southern latitude, where, in general, heavy S.W. winds are constantly blowing, and where I might, from the long range of coast, not be able to extricate myself. . . . The peevish and ignorant railed altogether at the attempt in such a vessel to make the voyage to New South Wales, and scrupled not to say we should have a long drift of it, as it was impossible to run or scud, the sea being too heavy for such a purpose. . . . Having, however, conquered all these difficulties of the imagination, I felt thankful to God for the great success we had met with, and the protection He had shown us throughout the whole voyage."

The Lady Nelson, in entering upon her eventful colonial career, certainly did that which alone ought to immortalize her name—she was the first ship that ever sailed parallel to the entire southern coast-line of Australia, passing through Bass's Straits. Grant records the arrival from the Cape of Good Hope, on January 11th, 1801, of the second ship through the Straits, the Harbinger brig, commanded by Mr. Black, and on February 7th, of the brig Margaret from England, commanded by Mr. Byers; the former made land "about Cape Albany Otway and Cape Patton", and the latter "nearly in 38° 20', about Cape Bridgewater." Mr. Black sighted and named King's Island. In a printed sheet of "Observations upon the Chart of Bass's Straits, combined under the direction of Captain G.P. King, Governour of New South Wales, by Ensign Barrallier", in the British Museum,* it is stated that "the South Point and Reefs" of King's Island "were seen by Mr. Reid in 1798."

[*** See add. MS., 11,803 E.]

Governor King, in a paper ** or minute entitled the "Present State of H.M. Settlements in N. S. Wales," and dated March 1st, 1802, reports:—

[* New South Wales Correspondence, Record Office.]

"Much has been done towards exploring the coast to the southward by Captain Flinders and Mr. Bass, but I can observe nothing, in either of their narratives, to conjecture that a more eligible situation exists, on every account, for forming the principal settlement at than Port Jackson, nor can I discover from their observations any other place proper to fix another settlement at to the southward of this, unless in the Straits, either at Port Dalrymple on the south, or Western Port on the north side. Perhaps the former would be the most eligible place, on account of the prevailing winds, which are from the south to west Since the discovery of Bass's Straits and the chart published by Arrowsmith, the following vessels have gone through them, and from their observations the charts that accompany this are formed:—The Lady Nelson passed through, coming from England, in December, 1800. She made the land in latitude 38°, longitude 141°, and kept along the New Holland shore. In January, 1801, a small brig from the Cape of Good Hope, commanded by Mr. Black (a person of good abilities as a surveyor and navigator), passed through, and, keeping more to the southward, made Cape Albany Otway, and, standing across to the southward, made an island lying in the centre of the west entrance of the Straits, which he named King's Island, and afterwards passed through the centre of the Straits. A few days after, a brig from England made King's Island, and, having met with an uncommon easterly wind, was ten days getting through. She worked from the north to the south side, and passed through Banks's Straits. Since then two vessels have been for six months together sealing at different times of the year, and have attempted to get to the westward of Western Port, but could not succeed, owing to the constant west and south-west winds, which blow with scarce any interval, and send a very great sea quite through. As these vessels were extremely well found and persevered greatly, I am led to the belief that a passage to the Cape of Good Hope through these Straits, if not impracticable, would be very unadvisable to attempt; but, for ships coming from the westward, these Straits are certainly most happily situated, as no ship need go higher than 39° 30' S. Every seaman knows the difference there is in the weather in that latitude and in 46°, which ships must necessarily get into to round Van Diemen's Land. It is true that the wind is constantly from the west and south-west until the distance of the south cape, when it invariably comes from the north-east, which causes nine ships out of ten to be from ten to fourteen days getting to Port Jackson, after having rounded the cape, all which is avoided by passing through the Straits, which are sufficiently wide. The distance from Cape Albany Otway to King's Island not being more than sixteen leagues, the parallel of 39° 15' takes a ship clear of all. The latitude and longitude of Wilson's Promontory, from many coinciding observations and by chronometers, is 39° 10' S. and 146° 52' E. The chart that accompanies this is not meant as a conclusive one, as much additional information is expected from the Lady Nelson's present voyage of survey, which she sailed on in November last; nor can a chart be considered as perfect until Captain Flinders has examined the Straits. Still the one now sent may be published as a sufficient guide for any vessels using the common precautions on their way hither. The conjecture of New South Wales being insulated from New Holland still remains undecided. Lieutenant Grant, in the Lady Nelson, saw no land at the bottom of Portland Bay in passing it, but his survey of Wilson's Promontory and Western Port does away the supposed opening between these points, which was presumed might be the south entrance of such a separation, as it lies nearly in the meridian of the Gulf of Carpentaria."

It is difficult to realize that only seventy-six years have elapsed since it was conjectured that Australia might be penetrated, or perhaps intersected, by a Mediterranean Sea.