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ОглавлениеIntroduction.
fertile savannas and forests, teeming with game of all sorts, gave the Kalahari the character of a hunter’s paradise, instead of the barren desert which it has always been represented to be. Furthermore, he assured me that he knew a certain place where he had found diamonds—one weighing 188 carats. At first I did not quite credit this statement, but later on going through some of the Earthmen’s things, looking for poison, I found several diamonds, a fact which, to a certain extent, corroborated old Kert’s tale. A change of climate being necessary to recoup my health, I decided to go to Africa and take old Kert with me, and test his story.
But such an expedition could not well be undertaken without the aid of a trustworthy companion, and I knew of but one upon whom I could rely with implicit confidence. This was the person who figures in the following pages under the name of “Lulu.”
The public requires no introduction to Lulu,” who some years ago startled them with several novel feats of skill and daring; and who is now following his profession of portrait painter and photographer in Bridgeport, America.
At the time when I determined on my trip. Lulu was with me in America; and it was with much difficulty that I persuaded him to agree to accompany me. When, however, I represented to him what splendid opportunities he would have of obtaining new photographic views and effects, he entered heartily into the idea, and secured all the latest improvements in portable photographic appliances, sketch-books, &c.;
Introduction.
and we sailed without delay for England, and thence for Cape Town.
Before leaving America I visited my cattle-ranche, when one of my partners hearing me repeat Kert’s glowing description of the Desert, suggested that I might do worse than secure a large tract of land there for cattle-ranching purposes. Here, then, was a fresh inducement to visit the country; and diamonds and cattle-ranches thus became the motive of my journey and the basis of this book.
We obtained letters of introduction to all the leading men of the colony, including Sir Hercules Robinson, K.C.M.G., Sir Charles Warren, G.C.M.G., Colonel Schermbrücker, and others; but, finding that somehow or other Kert’s story about the diamonds had leaked out, we took our passage under assumed names.
This expedition afforded us the further advantage that it gave us an opportunity of hearing very frank expressions of opinion about ourselves from different passengers on board the Roslin Castle, One gentleman in particular told me a story of how he had made “that stingy fellow, Farini, stand drinks; a thing he had never been known to do before”—a story which natu- rally gave me a much worse opinion of Farini than I had previously entertained.
On the way out, we made the acquaintance of the charming Misses Sauer, and their married sister, the accomplished Mrs. Caldecott; and on our arrival at Cape Town were introduced to Dr. Sauer and Mr. Caldecott, and to Colonel Schermbrücker, the Minister for Public Works, to whom I had a letter of recom-
Introduction.
mendation from Sir Charles Mills, K.C.M.G., the Agent-General for Cape Colony in London, and who gave us an open letter of introduction to all the Com- missioners and Magistrates of the districts we might pass through, requesting them to afford us all the assistance in their power.
Our few days’ stay in Cape Town was spent most pleasantly. Dinners were eaten and visits were paid everywhere. The drives were very enjoyable when the “south-easter” did not blow. One of the most pleasant was over the ironstone road to Constantia, to pay a visit to Mr. Cloete, the celebrated wine-grower—one of the old-style Dutch, and a most charming host,—who has the best kept and cleanest place I saw in all Africa. Another delightful drive was along the foot of the Lion’s Back Mountain to the residence of Captain Morrison, the jolliest Scotchman I ever met, and one of the institutions of “ Malayville,” Cape Town.
Meantime Lulu spent many days on Table Mountain, and obtained some very beautiful views, which, along with many others taken during the ,trip, were exhibited at the recent Photographic Exhibition in London, and afterwards at the meeting of the Berlin Geographical Society, on November 7th, 1885, when I read a paper, in German, on m}^ journey through the Kalahari, as well as before the Royal Geographical Society of England, on March 8th, 1886, when my paper was read, with the Marquis of Lorne in the chair.
The whole of the illustrations in this book are from photographs taken by Lulu, with the single exception of that showing the great “Hercules” Fall, on the
Introduction.
Orange River, at high water, which, as explained in the proper place, is from a drawing made by him under the most extraordinary circumstances.
I may, perhaps, be permitted to add that, besides resulting in the performance of the great gymnastic and photographic feat of taking views of the largest and most inaccessible Falls in the world—the Hundred Falls on the Orange River—my expedition has com- pletely disproved the long-prevailing notion that the Kalahari is a barren wilderness.
The satisfaction with which I am enabled to record these two principal results of my journey more than repay all the risk and trouble with which it was accompanied.
In conclusion, in order not to make the book too dry for the general reader, I have put into an appendix description of the fauna and flora of the Kalahari, together with a key to the accompanying map.
G. A. FARINI.
March, 1886.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Introduction..................................................................................v
CHAPTER I.
By rail from Cape Town —Over the hills—Drought in the Great Karroo—No rain for three years—An ostrich farm—A well-built railway—The Orange River terminus—Close packing—Crossing the Orange River—Team-driving in South Africa—”Det es nie hotel nie”—Froude’s “Honest Boer”—An oasis—Disappointing “mine host”—Fording the Mud River—Tin-can houses—”Tin Town,” alias Kim-
| berley ................................................................................................1 |
CHAPTER II.
Laying in stock—The story of the first diamond—How the mine was discovered—Shady customers—Cheating the revenue—”Diamond cut diamond”—Welcoming the ladies—The “I.D.B.”—Bubble companies—Evils of the detective sys-
| tem—Martyrs to civilization……………………..…………………………..……..17 |
CHAPTER III.
The blasting of the blue—Down the crater—Searching the blacks—The washing-grounds—How the diamonds are un- earthed—The sorting-tables—Judging the weight of a stone—Who are the diamond thieves?—Life in Kimber- ley—Its climate and its moral atmosphere—The mining
| pioneer………………………….……………………………………………………..…30 |
Contents.
PAGE
CHAPTER IV.
A dangerous experiment—A mimic volcano in eruption—Pack- ing up—Starting for the Kalahari—A Bastard encamp- ment—A big bag of partridges—Making friends with the Boers—A good investment—A South African Crusoe—
| “Lots of trees”—A massacre of the innocents………………………………….42 |
CHAPTER V.
Something like a hot day—How it rains in South Africa—Our first antelope—At Campbell—An aged Griqua chieftainess —Mr. Bartlett’s garden—”Born Tired”—A talk with Mr. Virtue—Farmers’ troubles in South Africa—Shooting a koran—After the spring-bok—Sunday morning at Griqua Town—A Boer’s homestead—Interviewing the Commis- sioner—The ex-Chief of the Griquas—We visit the “oldest
| inhabitant “ —The country drying up…………………………….………………55 |
CHAPTER VI.
Killing two stein-bok at one shot—The “Honest Boer “ again —Reinforcements—Dining à la Bastard—Watering at Abram’s Dam—Jan is lost—Stuck fast in the sand—A terrible road—Water at last—A “creamery” at Kheis— How to harness an ox-team—Police duty in Korannaland On the verge of the Kalahari—Oxen v. mules—An ungrate-
| ful mule—Kert among his relations.....………….………………………..……..79 |
CHAPTER VII.
A Bastard’s family—A Bushman’s tent—Jan returns half dead —The story of his adventure—Botanizing in the desert— The sama, or wild water-melon—Bushman’s rice—A bonne- bouche—Collecting insects—Stuck in a sandhill—A dream of Golconda—Searching for diamonds—Shooting pheasants and wild geese—Latest Paris fashions—Nature’s dress-im- prover—A Mantalini of the desert—A primitive pumping-
| engine—A parti-coloured family………………….………………………………..99 |
Contents.
PAGE
CHAPTER VIII.
Jan gets into trouble—My best horse is drowned—Hurrah for life on the desert!—Stuck again!—Swapping mules for oxen—News from Khartoum—A “clever” trader—Riding on Ox-back—A visit from the Hill Bushmen—A sculptured cave—A native dance and concert—Hunting and eating the hyena—A day among the wild fowl—A floral “desert” —Digging for water—We organize a big hunt—Chasing an ostrich I lose my way—A supper of ostrich-meat—A
| night in the desert with Death for a bed fellow………………..…………….117 |
CHAPTER IX.
Lost on the desert—Death from starvation and fatigue—Eating a poisonous root—The agonies of death—A prey to wild beasts—I am given up for dead—A funeral procession—A runaway knock at death’s door—Milk-and-water—Cafe à la Kalahari—Delicious water—Grass and sama in plenty —Kuis—The chief “Make Haste”—An extortionate chief —Adventures of a desert trader—I enter into partnership
| with two Bastard hunters—How to cook sama…….………………………..137 |
CHAPTER X.
Lion’s spoor—Kert astonishes the natives—Making a night kraal—A novel manger—A grass- covered “desert”—Col- lecting grass-seeds—A herd of gems-bok attacked by lions —Dirk and Klas run away—In pursuit of Leo—A narrow escape—We find the lion impaled on the gems-bok’s horns —Skinning our booty—A lonely night-watch—A strange
| intruder—I am called on a mysterious errand………….……………………153 |
CHAPTER XI.
Rescuing a dying man—The sick German tells his story—Trea- cherous Hottentots—Left to die on the desert—The ever- lasting sama—A wilderness of beautiful flowers—Spring-
Contents.
PAGE
bok bewitched—Taking stock—A sea of grass—A night alarm—A visit from a party of Bechuana traders—A fan-
| tastical witch doctor………..…………………………………..………………………170 |
CHAPTER XII.
The witch-doctor’s séance—The oracle prophesies good luck— Turning the tables on the conjurer—Nonplussing the nig- ger—On the borders of the K’gung Forest—A remarkable birds’-nest—A terrible disappointment—Making the best of it—Digging for water—A deserted Balala camp—A lion springs into our camp—How the natives make leather— Native water-bearers—At Lihutitung—A present from
| Mapaar—Our first bath……………………………………….……………………..189 |
CHAPTER XIII.
An interview with the chief—A royal beggar—Marriage made easy—A visit to Mapaar’s garden—Curious beverages— Mapaar enjoys a drink of eau-de-Cologne—House-building spider— Mapaar invites us to a hunt—I offend my Black Beauty—How to make thick milk—Hunting the gems-bok
| —The disappointed photographer—Distributing the spoil……..……..207 |
CHAPTER XIV.
A family misunderstanding—I am put on my defence—Verdict “not guilty”—Out of the frying-pan into the fire—I turn weather-prophet—An awkward dilemma—A bag of teal— “Won, but not wooed”—My prophecy comes too true— Once more I am put on trial—Chopping logic with Ma- paar—All’s well that ends well—Farewell to Mapaar—In
| the forest—On the lions’ track…………….………………………………………225 |
CHAPTER XV.
Surprising the lion asleep—A lucky shot—A delicious shower- bath—Milking the cows—The cattle drink to bursting
Contents.
PAGE
point—Catching a scorpion—A novel euro for scorpion sting—Charged by a rhinoceros—Bombarding the baby— A sweet-smelling bug—The Kaffir water-melon—The haunt of the pigmies—The M’Kabba tribe—Truffles à la pigmy—Making poisoned arrows—A visit to their camp—
| The dwarfs promise to come with us to England………………………..…239 |
CHAPTER XVI.
An elephant hunt—A beautiful tree—Some realistic music— In ambush for the elephants—Charged by the pachyderms —A wounded elephant doctoring himself—A convenient ladder—Kert has a narrow escape—We sup off elephant’s feet—A happy release—Hunting the buffalo—More frightened than hurt—A grand cattle-grazing country—In luck again!—A herd of zebra—A fortune waiting to be caught—A puzzle for an antiquary—A substitute for po- tato—Evidence of the gradual elevation of the country—
| Curious customs of the Damaras………………………………..……………….257 |
CHAPTER XVII.
Through the lion’s territory—From Ochimbunde to Kerses— Another way of making thick milk—An Englishman in- cog.—A city of huts—Dirk Verlander the chief of the Bastards-—In a quandary—How Verlander became “cap- tain”—Time reckoning and money equivalents among the Bastards—Bastard customs—A cattle ranche—Going to meetin’—Master-beggars—The private secretary—We start on a hunting expedition—A twilight reverie—Trapping a
| jackal………………………………………………………………………………………..273 |
CHAPTER XVIII.
Defying the poison-berrie—A ride after a girafle—A tall beast —Hints on giraffe hunting—Charming away the lions and vultures—A desert delicacy—I spend a night alone in a tree— A descent of vultures in force—A monster vulture- Nocturnal visitors—The “lion’s scavenger” versus “lion’s
Contents.
PAGE
provider”—The hyena enters a caveat—In dreamland—A curious bird—Three lions appear on the scene—Photograph- ing Leo at home—A foolhardy experiment—Camera versus
| gun—Death of the king………………………………………………….…………..290 |
CHAPTER XIX.
A lion’s leap—Qui s’ excuse s’ accuse—Watching the wildebeests —After the giraffe—Astonishing the natives—Photograph- ing the dying giraffe—Catching a baby giraffe—Cutting up the booty—Making biltong—Stalking the ostriches—A night of feasting—A two-legged lion—A nocturnal adven-
| ture—How the poisoned arrows work………………….………………………310 |
CHAPTER XX.
Butterfly-hunting—A chameleon—Mixing the poison-pot— Smearing the arrows—How the arrows are made—“ Honey- beer “ — How the wild-bees’ nests are made—Honey gather- ing—Chewing the grubs—Making honey-beer—A drunken orgie—A false alarm—A tragic sequel to the feast—
| Friends not enemies………………………………………………………………..…333 |
CHAPTER XXI.
The Vaalpens or Kattea tribe—A “Christian” Kaffir—White- washing the darkies—A drink of nectar—A Kattea hunt— Running short of provisions—In the slave-market—Up- ington our pole-star—Bitten by a snake—A new mountain —A wonderful wall—An archssological discovery—Collect- ing water-insects—A bird’s-nesting snake—Our laundry— In straits for want of food and water—A moonlight scene —A fresh team—A lucky find—Death of “Lady Anna”
| —Bitten by a snake—Similia similibus curantur…….…………………….349 |
CHAPTER XXII.
At Mier again—The private secretary becomes confidential—A war of extermination—Terrible confessions—A trustworthy councillor—A garden at Mier—A fertile soil—The “born-
Contents.
PAGE
tired” disease—An antidote to snake poison—An enter- prising Boer—A Bastard family—Making the calves use- ful—Exchange and barter—A raid on the water-fowl
| — K’ Abiam Pool………………………………………………………………………..368 |
CHAPTER XXIII.
Down the banks of the Orange River—A settler from Canada —The waggon overturned—Surgery under difficulties— Engineering the road—Exploring the river-banks—Cross- ing the rapids—First glimpse of the Falls—A waterfall out of the solid rock—A whirlpool—A beautiful scene—A flowery bower—Pride has a fall—Photographing the rapids
| —Freaks of nature—Reconnoitring the Hercules Falls…………………..383 |
CHAPTER XXIV.
An acrobatic enterprise—Photographing the Hercules Falls—A sudden rise in the river—We make a raft—Pheasants, guinea-fowls, and rock-pigeons—Discretion the better part of valour—Descending the precipice—Farini Towers and Falls—A magnificent sight—A narrow escape—Mudlarks —A well-earned supper—An underground stream—The Diamond Falls—Surprised by the flood—”The Hundred
| Falls”……………………………………..…………………………………………………399 |
CHAPTER XXV.
Imprisoned by the flood—A night in mid-stream—A baboon for breakfast—Escaping from prison—We are welcomed with smiles—A visit from a poetical Bastard—Bushman Precipice—Hippopotamus-shooting extraordinary—A civi- lized dinner—An enterprising settler—A tobacco factory—
| An island estate—Hottentot doctors……………………………………………419 |
CHAPTER XXVI.
At Upington—The pleasures of civilization— A fair gardener and a garden fair—A notable irrigation work—A Bushman’s
Contents.
PAGE
bonne-bouche—A happy family—A dangerous ford—Pati- ence and perseverance—A sharp trader—A grand tea-party —A Boer wedding party—Catechized about the Queen— Prieska—Hard lines for the Bushmen—Fronde’s “honest Boer” at last!—Hope Town again—A sale by auction—
| Honest Boers— “Interviewed” —General conclusions……………………434 |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
| The Author Lulu, the Artist | } | . . . . . . . . Frontispiece | |
| View of Kimberley . . . . . . | to face | 18 | |
| The Diamond mine . . . . . . | “ | 44 | |
| House where Livingstone first saw Mary Moffat . | . . | 58 | |
| Mr. Bartlett’s house at Campbell . . . . | . . | 59 | |
| A Boer’s homestead . . . . . . | . . | 69 | |
| Old Mission House, Griqua Town. . . . | . . | 77 | |
| Old Kert, my guide . . . . . . | . . | 97 | |
| Crossing the Kalahari. . . . . . | . . | 108 | |
| Riding on Ox-back . . . . . . | . . | 123 | |
| Wall drawings in Hill-Bushmen’s Cave . . . | . . | 124 | |
| Some Kalahari wild fowl . . . . . | . . | 129 | |
| View of the Desert near Kuis . . . . | . . | 146 | |
| Dirk and Klas to face . . . . . . | to face | 150 | |
| A group of Kalahari flora . . . . . | . . | 180 | |
| Nest of Grosbeak . . . . . . | . . | 196 | |
| King Mapaar and wife. . . . . . | to face | 223 | |
| Vaalpens . . . . . . . . | “ | 237 | |
| Camping by the way . . . . . . | . . | 241 | |
| The M’Kabba dwarfs to face . . . . | to face | 255 | |
| Our laundry on the Desert . . . . . | . . | 270 | |
| Dirk Verlander. . . . . . . | . . | 276 | |
| Death of the Giraffe . . . . . . | . . | 293 |
List of Illustrations.
| PAGE | ||
| Lions eating the Giraffe . . . . . . | to face | 307 |
| Shooting a Giraffe . . . . . . | . . | 321 |
| Drying meat . . . . . . . | . . | 325 |
| Stalking the Ostrich . . . . . . | . . | 330 |
| Kattea tribe . . . . . . . | . . | 350 |
| Ruins on the Kalahari Desert . . . . . | . . | 358 |
| The first bath for many months . . . . | . . | 361 |
| Dirk Verlander and his “groot-men” . . . | to face | 369 |
| Watering the cattle by moonlight . . . . | “ | 377 |
| A Bastard family . . . . . . | . . | 378 |
| K’Abiam pool . . . . . . . | . . | 381 |
| Rock Drift . . . . . . . | . . | 391 |
| Gorilla Rock . . . . . . | to face | 397 |
| Lulu Falls and Chasm . . . . . . | . . | 397 |
| Book Rock and Falls . . . . . . | to face | 398 |
| Farini Falls and Towers . . . . . . | “ | 405 |
| The Anna Falls . . . . . . . | . . | 409 |
| The Scott Gorge and Falls . . . . . | to face | 413 |
| The Diamond Falls . . . . . . | “ | 414 |
| The Schermbrücker Falls . . . . . | “ | 415 |
| The Hundred Falls . . . . . . | . . | 416 |
| The Hercules Falls at half flood . . . . | . . | 425 |
| PLAN of The Hundred Falls of the Orange River . | to face | 428 |
| Map of the Author’s route . . . . . | at end |
