Читать книгу Box-Making Projects for the Scroll Saw - Gary MacKay - Страница 9

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BOX-MAKING BASICS

Making boxes is a rather simple prospect—once you understand a few basic principles. In this chapter, we’ll explore the basic elements of box making. You’ll learn about the types of wood recommended for these projects, the tools you’ll need to make them, and tips to adding some finishing touches.

WOOD

I used 11 different wood species to make the boxes featured in this book. Some of the woods were ones that I’ve used many times before, like cherry, poplar, and walnut; others, like alder and sassafras, I used for the first time.

“Machine-ability,” or how a wood cuts on the scroll saw, is the most important factor in choosing wood for your boxes. For example, red oak and maple are more difficult to cut on a scroll saw than some of the other woods. If you are new to using a scroll saw, you’ll want to start with wood that is softer than red oak and maple.

In addition to the degree of difficulty in cutting the wood, you’ll also want to consider its color. By using contrasting woods to create the patterns, you will make your boxes really stand out.

The finished look of the wood is another consideration when you are choosing wood. All of the boxes in this book are given a natural, or clear, finish to show off the grain of the wood. A fancy jewelry box is an ideal candidate for a highly figured and beautifully colored wood like cherry or walnut. A heart-shaped keepsake box for a small child would be best made out of a durable wood like red oak. If you plan to paint your box, you’ll want to choose an inexpensive wood that will sand very smooth, like basswood or poplar.

One final consideration is cost. I used some of the more expensive woods, like cherry, mahogany, and walnut, on the thinner front and back pieces for some of the boxes in this book. Using these woods in limited areas helped to cut down on the cost of the woods but still gave the boxes a high-class, expensive look.

You’ll want to consider machine-ability, color, grain pattern, and cost when choosing wood for your boxes. Shown here are four of the woods used in this book—alder, poplar, red oak, and walnut.

In addition to a scroll saw, box making requires several types of clamps, a simple jig, a few varieties of adhesives, and some common household items.

TOOLS

You don’t need a lot of tools to make boxes on a scroll saw. In fact, in addition to a scroll saw, all you will need are some clamps, a simple jig, and a few different types of adhesives.

SCROLL SAW AND BLADES

You can use any scroll saw to make boxes. I recommend that your scroll saw have a dust blower to keep the pattern lines free of dust. A light with a magnifier will help you see the pattern lines when you are cutting. You do not need a scroll saw with a speed control or quick-change blade clamps to make boxes because all of the boxes in this book can be cut on one speed and do not require frequent blade changes.

For cutting boxes on your scroll saw, I recommend the following blades:

• #5 reverse-tooth blade for woods ¼″ to ½″ thick

• #7 reverse-tooth blade for woods ¾″ thick

• #12 reverse-tooth or thick-wood blade for woods greater than ¾″ thick

OTHER TOOLS

Of the other tools that are useful in box making, clamps are some of the most important. At a minimum, it is a good idea to have two screw-type clamps, two quick-grip clamps, and several 2″ spring clamps.

A band saw with a ¼″-wide blade is an optional tool that can be used on some boxes to cut the outside profile. (The same cuts can be made with a scroll saw; however, they will be more difficult. Use a #12 reverse tooth or a thick-wood scroll saw blade and proceed slowly.)

Another optional but handy tool is the stationary belt sander. I recommend this tool because of its ease and speed of use. You can get the same results, however, with a handheld power sander or with several grits of sandpaper wrapped around a wood block or dowel and some elbow grease.

JIGS

When making boxes, it is very handy to have a simple jig made from wood that you can use as a flat, square surface for gluing up wood. In this book, a gluing jig will be used for gluing lami-nations, box lids, and boxes. The jig allows you to clamp the wood together to create a tight wood joint (see the sidebar, “Making a Gluing Jig,” at the right).

Always protect the surface and rails of your gluing jig from glue squeeze-out with a single sheet of old newspaper as shown in the top right photo.

GLUES, ADHESIVES, AND TAPES

Glues, adhesives, and tapes are important materials in box making. Don’t try to omit their use from your project. The few minutes it takes to add packaging tape over a pattern or to position and reposition glued, clamped wood will pay off in the end with a nicer finished project.

Wood glue: I use wood glue for all of the boxes I make. I always place a single sheet of old newspaper on a flat surface when gluing pieces of wood together. Be sure to check for glue squeeze-out and remove it with a flathead, or slotted, screwdriver or a rag.

When gluing two pieces of wood together, apply glue to both mating surfaces. With glue, as soon as you apply pressure on the first clamp, the mating surfaces will slide out of position. You may need to unclamp and reposition your pieces several times before they stay in the position you want.

A simple gluing jig gives you a flat, square surface for gluing up wood.

MAKING A GLUING JIG

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Wood glue

Square

1 to 2 screw clamps

STOCK

One piece ¾″ × 18″ × 24″ pressboard, MDF (medium-density fiberboard), or plywood

One piece ¾″ × ¾″ × 17″ oak rail

One piece ¾″ × ¾″ × 22¼″ oak rail

Three pieces ½″ × ¾″ × 3¾″ scrap wood clamping blocks

Glue the two rails to the piece of ¾″ × 18″ × 24″ pressboard, MDF, or plywood that is used for the base at 1″ from the base edges. Use a square to ensure a 90-degree angle.

Don’t apply too much clamping pressure to a glue joint or you will force all of the glue out of the joint. Apply just enough pressure to produce a small amount of glue squeeze-out.

Spray adhesive or glue stick adhesive: Use spray adhesive on larger patterns and glue stick adhesive on smaller patterns. I have found that you need to adhere the pattern to your workpiece just before you do your cutting. Some patterns adhered overnight become loose with time.

Packaging tape: Cover your patterns with clear packaging tape after the patterns are applied to the wood. The packaging tape serves as a blade lubricant. The tape can be applied before the pattern if light glare is a problem.

Double-sided tape: I like to use several thin strips of double-sided tape when adhering two pieces of wood together prior to stack cutting for making laminations. When using double-sided tape, separate the release paper using a pin.

A pin can be useful for centering a pattern, especially on laminated stock.

TECHNIQUES

Two special scroll sawing techniques are used to make the boxes in this book. These techniques are also common woodworking practices, but they have been altered so they can be done on a scroll saw. One is stack cutting; the other is laminating. I also use a technique called precision pinpoint pattern placement to center patterns perfectly on the stock.

STACK CUTTING

Stack cutting is simply placing two or more pieces of wood together to cut the same pattern. The result of this technique is that you will have several pieces of the same shape. Stack cutting is a time-saver if you need to cut multiple pieces. You can cut the same kinds of wood or different kinds in a single stack. By cutting two different kinds of wood, you can also ensure a perfect fit when you are cutting a pattern like the pinwheel box.

LAMINATING

Laminating involves gluing two or more pieces of wood together before a pattern is scrolled. One reason to laminate a board is to get a thicker or wider piece for scrolling. Another reason to laminate wood is to create a pattern. By gluing together different types of wood and cutting the laminated piece into strips, you can create checkerboard and diamond patterns.

PRECISION PINPOINT PATTERN PLACEMENT

A pin can be used to accurately center a pattern on your workpiece. This is what I call “precision pinpoint pattern placement.” First, mark the center of your workpiece. Next, apply spray adhesive to your pattern. Then, stick a pin through the center of the pattern and slide the pattern all the way up to the head of the pin. Now, stick the point of the pin in the center of your workpiece and slide the pattern down the pin. Finally, press the pattern into place and remove the pin. Your pattern is perfectly placed.

FINISHING

All of the boxes in this book have been finished with a natural finish. I prefer a natural finish to paint or stain because it allows the natural beauty of the wood to show through. Many hardwoods have beautiful grain patterns and lovely colors for box making.

To finish a box, I first sand the entire box to 220 grit or finer. Many finishes have been ruined by dried glue spots, so I like to apply a light coat of paint thinner after I finish sanding to detect any dried glue spots on the box. I use a pencil to circle any areas of dried glue. Once the thinner evaporates, I sand off the pencil circles.

My first coat of finish is boiled linseed oil (tung oil or Danish oil are two other choices) applied with a rag, as it really brings out the wood grain. After the box has dried for two days, I use a 1″ brush to apply a coat of clear shellac. When the shellac has dried, I sand the box with 320-grit sandpaper, and then apply a good paste wax to the box.

LINING BOXES WITH FELT

Lining box compartments of all shapes with felt is easy. Here is the “no bake” recipe.

You will need wood glue, poster board, and felt. Place a sheet of newspaper on a flat surface, apply wood glue to the poster board, and roll the felt evenly onto the poster board. Cover the felt with a piece of newspaper, and place some heavy books or magazines on top. Leave it overnight to dry. Use a pencil to mark the size of the compartment you are lining on the poster board. Cut out the lining with sharp scissors.

Place a few drops of tacky glue on the poster board prior to inserting the lining into the compartment. Sheets of felt that have been glued to poster board tend to curl, particularly if it is humid. Gluing the felt-covered poster board directly to the wood of the compartment will prevent this tendency.

If you will be lining an odd-shaped compartment, like a heart shape, be sure to save the cutout from the compartment with the pattern still adhered. Place the cutout pattern-side down on the poster board, and trace the shape on the poster board with a pencil.

SAFETY

Staying safe is key to enjoying your craft. Remember the following as you are working:

• Use safety goggles to protect your eyes.

• Remove any loose clothing or jewelry.

• Work in a well-ventilated area, and use a mask or an air cleaner to protect your lungs.

• Work in a well-lighted area.

• Keep your hands away from the blade.

• Don’t use a scroll saw when you are tired or unfocused.

Boiled linseed oil applied as a first coat really brings out the grain. A coat of shellac, applied after the linseed oil is dry, helps protect the box.

Backing felt with poster board makes it easier to line your box compartments.