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GENERAL PLAN AND OBJECTS.

The Expeditions of which the results are narrated in the following pages took their origin from a proposition made to Government by myself, in conjunction with Lieutenant Lushington,* in the latter part of the year 1836.

(*Footnote. Now Captain Lushington of the 9th Foot.)

At that time a large portion of the western coast and interior of the great Australian continent had remained unvisited and unknown; whilst the opinions of the celebrated navigators Captains Dampier and King, connected with other circumstances, led to the inference, or at least the hope, that a great river, or water inlet, might be found to open out at some point on its western or north-western side; which had then been only partially surveyed from seaward.

DESIGN OF THE EXPEDITION.

Anxious to solve this interesting geographical problem, we addressed a letter to Lord Glenelg, the Secretary of State for the Colonies, wherein we offered our services to conduct an exploration from the Swan River to the northward, having regard to the direction of the coast, so as to intersect any considerable body of water connecting it with the interior; and, in the event of such being discovered, to extend our examination of it as far as circumstances might admit.

The letter containing this offer also enumerated several secondary objects, to which we proposed to direct our attention, and which were ultimately comprehended in our instructions.

The offer and suggestions were favourably entertained by Lord Glenelg, and further communications invited; and, the project having been favoured by the support of the Royal Geographical Society, our services were finally accepted by the Government.

INSTRUCTIONS.

More mature consideration however led to a material alteration in the first plan; for whilst our principal object, namely, the search for a great river or interior inlet, remained the same, it was considered, for several reasons, more advisable that the exploration should commence from the vicinity of Prince Regent's River, on the north-west coast, and be directed towards the Swan. I shall pass over the various points of detail which occupied our time and attention until the moment of departure, as they offer no matters of general interest. It will be sufficient to say that everything suggested as likely to be conducive to the success and utility of the expedition was most liberally granted and supplied; and, when all was prepared, a letter of instructions dated the 16th June 1837 was addressed by Lord Glenelg to myself and Lieutenant Lushington conjointly; which embraced the following points:

1. We were to embark in H.M. sloop of war the Beagle, then fitting out for a survey of the coasts and seas of Australia, under the command of Captain Wickham, R.N.; and to proceed in that vessel either to the Cape of Good Hope or to Swan River, as might ultimately appear best suited to forward the objects of the expedition.

2. On our arrival at either of the foregoing places, we were directed to procure a small vessel to convey the party and stores to the most convenient point in the vicinity of Prince Regent's River.

3. After due examination of the country about Prince Regent's River we were instructed to take such a course as would lead us in the direction of the great opening behind Dampier's Land. From the moment of our arrival at this point our subsequent proceedings were left more discretionary; but the instructions continued: "You will use the utmost exertions to penetrate from thence to the Swan River; as, by adopting this course, you will proceed in a direction parallel to the unknown coast, and must necessarily cross every large river that flows from the interior towards that side of the continent."

4. That we might have an opportunity, in the event of any unforeseen difficulties occurring, of falling back upon the vessel conveying the party, she was not to quit the place where she might have been left by it until such a time had elapsed, from the departure of the expedition for the interior, as should be agreed upon; and, to ensure the observance of this condition, we were instructed to act by the advice of the local authorities of the colony where she might be engaged in drawing up the agreement, as well as in procuring guarantees for its fulfilment.

5. The main objects of the expedition were then specified to be: To gain information as to the real state of North-Western Australia, its resources, and the course and direction of its rivers and mountain ranges; to familiarize the natives with the British name and character; to search for and record all information regarding the natural productions of the country, and all details that might bear upon its capabilities for colonization or the reverse; and to collect specimens of its natural history.

6. It was directed that strict discipline should be observed, and the regulations by which our intercourse with the natives was to be governed were laid down; after which the instructions concluded with the following paragraphs:

No further detail has been given you in these instructions, for, as you have been made aware of the motives which have induced his Majesty's Government to send out the expedition, it is supposed each individual will do his utmost in his situation to carry these objects out, either by obtaining all possible information or by such other means as may be in his power.

Although the instructions regarding the expedition are addressed to you conjointly as conductors of it, it is necessary that the principal authority and direction should be vested in one individual, on whom the chief responsibility would rest.

It is to be understood that Lieutenant Grey, the senior military officer, is considered as commanding the party and the person by whose orders and instructions all individuals composing the party will be guided and conform.

1837.

All our preparations being completed, there embarked in the Beagle, besides myself and Mr. Lushington, Mr. Walker, a surgeon and naturalist, and Corporals Coles and Auger, Royal Sappers and Miners, who had volunteered their services; and we sailed from Plymouth on the 5th July 1837.

TENERIFE. AQUEDUCT AT SANTA CRUZ.

The usual incidents of a sea voyage brought us to Santa Cruz in Tenerife, where I landed on Wednesday 19th July 1837, about 2 o'clock in the afternoon. There was a sort of table d'hote at 3 o'clock at an hotel kept by an Englishman, at which I dined, and was fortunate in so doing as I met there a German and several English merchants who were principally engaged in the trade of the country. There was also a gentleman who had been from his earliest years in the African trade for gums, etc.; and he gave me many interesting particulars of the wild life the individuals so occupied are compelled to lead. In the afternoon I made a set of magnetic observations and then walked out to see the aqueduct; which at about three-quarters of a mile to the north-east of the town approaches it by a passage cut through a mountain. The execution of this work must have been attended with immense labour, for, although the design is grand and noble, the actual plan upon which it has been completed was by no means well conceived. The average depth of this cut is at least one hundred and twenty feet, its length is about one hundred and eighty, whilst its breadth in many parts is not more than four.

Previously to the construction of this aqueduct the town of Santa Cruz was very badly supplied with water, indeed so much so that the inhabitants were, at some periods of the year, compelled to send upwards of three miles for it; but no want of this nature has ever been experienced since its completion. The expenses of its construction as also of keeping it in repair are principally defrayed by a tax upon all wine and spirits actually consumed in the town.

The scenery of the country I walked through was bold and romantic but by no means rich; fig-trees grew wild about the mountains, and it seemed singular that, whenever I approached one, the peasants on the adjacent hills shouted out in loud tones. As far as I could understand the guide, this was done to deter us from eating the fruits now just ripe, and, upon my return to the town and making further enquiries, I found that such was their custom.

EXCURSION TO ORATAVA.

July 20th.

I started at six o'clock with Mr. Lushington for Oratava, distant about 30 miles from Santa Cruz. We were mounted on small ponies, admirably adapted to the wretched roads of the country, and accompanied by two guides who carried our carpet bags.

CAMELS, MATANZAS, THE GUANCHES.

The first town we came to was Laguna, which appeared to be of some importance; it is distant about four miles from Santa Cruz. On this road we passed many camels laden with heavy burdens; a circumstance which rather surprised me for I had always imagined that, owing to the peculiar formation of its foot, the camel was only fitted for travelling over sandy ground, whilst the way from Santa Cruz to Laguna is one continued mass of sharp rocks, utterly unworthy of the name of a road; yet these animals appeared to move over it without the least inconvenience.

After leaving Laguna the country for some miles bore a very uninteresting appearance; for, although apparently fertile, it was quite parched up by the extreme heat of the sun; our guides, who were on foot carrying our carpet bags, kept up with us by running, and, occasionally when tired, catching hold of the horses' tails to assist themselves along.

We halted for breakfast at Matanzas (or the place of slaughter) so called from a dreadful slaughter of the Spaniards which was here made by the Guanches, the aborigines of the island. I examined the spot where this occurred; it is a narrow defile, formed by a precipice on one hand, and perpendicular rocks on the other, and lies on the only route by which you can pass across the island from east to west; it was therefore well adapted for the purposes of savage warfare, and the Guanches here made the Spaniards pay dearly for the cruelties practised on themselves.

All traces of this interesting people, who were eventually extirpated by the Spaniards, have long since vanished, and, although I spared no pains, I could glean but little information about them, but to this subject I will advert again.

Before breakfast I made a set of magnetic observations, and then, swallowing a hasty meal, prepared to start. A difficulty however arose here, for neither Mr. Lushington nor myself spoke a word of Spanish, although we understood tolerably well what others said to us; the paying our bill became therefore rather a matter of embarrassment. One of the guides saw our distress and made signs that he would arrange matters for us; we accordingly gave him a dollar. With this he paid the bill and I saw him receive some change, which he coolly pocketed; I afterwards asked him for it, but he pretended with the utmost nonchalance not to understand me; so we saw no more of it.

SCENERY NEAR ORATAVA.

In the ride from Matanzas to Oratava the road is wretched but the scenery compensates for this. Upon arriving at the brow of the hill above Oratava, a beautiful prospect bursts upon the sight; directly in front rises the lordly Peak, whilst in the foreground are vineyards, cottages, and palm-trees; in the centre stands La Villa, the upper town of Oratava, encircled with gardens; on the right lies a rich slope running down to the sea which bounds the prospect on that side; and on the left rise rocky mountains, for the greater part clothed with wood.

We now spurred our horses on and, leaving the guides behind, soon reached La Villa, accompanied by a countryman who had joined us upon a pony; but, on getting into the town, the melancholy truth rushed upon my recollection that we could not speak Spanish: had we remained with our guides this would not much have signified, for they had been told at Santa Cruz to take us to a hotel.

EMBARRASSMENTS ON ARRIVAL THERE.

Nothing remained now but to do our best to open a communication; we accordingly accosted a variety of individuals in English, French, Italian, German--but in vain. Spanish alone was understood or spoken here; our friend, the countryman, stuck to us most nobly, he understood us not a bit better than the rest but saw that we were in distress and would not desert us.

We at last deliberately halted under a house where we could get a little shade, for the sun was intensely hot and, a crowd having soon collected, we harangued them alternately and received long answers in reply; but, although able to make out a great deal of what they said, we could not get them to understand a single word on our part. At length kind fate sent the guides to our rescue and they led us off direct to the hotel.

This however brought only partial relief to our wants; we opened our mouths, and pointed down our throats. So much was understood and a chicken instantly killed. We laid our heads upon a table, feigning sleep, and were shown to a wretched room; but here all converse terminated. Mr. Lushington desired to ascend the Peak therefore it became necessary that we should hit upon some means of making them comprehend this; but all efforts were in vain. At length they proposed to send for an interpreter, which was accordingly done; but he was at dinner, and could not then come.

At last the interpreter arrived, a Spanish Don who had been for some years resident in a mercantile house in New York; he was very dirty, but good-natured, and soon made the necessary arrangements for Mr. Lushington; who for eight dollars was to be provided with a pony, a sumpter mule, provisions and guides, taken safely to the top of the Peak and brought back again; which I thought reasonable enough.

After these arrangements I managed to scrape some acquaintance with this Spanish gentleman, who told me to my great edification that I was in a notorious gambling house. I had been informed at Santa Cruz that the inhabitants of those islands were dreadfully addicted to that vice, and I now, from personal observation, found this was too true.

After dinner I started to walk to the Port of Oratava, distant about three miles; there was beautiful scenery the whole way, and a tolerable road for the island. I called on Mr. Carpenter, the British Consul, to whom I had a letter, and he made arrangements for my being admitted to the botanical gardens at six o'clock the next morning.

On my return to La Villa all the roues of the town were assembled at our hotel to eat ices and gamble: I joined them in the former but not in the latter amusement.

SPANISH INTERPRETER. MANNERS.

The gentleman who had acted as interpreter for us was also there, but I could gain very little further information from him. He told me that they had just heard George the Eighth, the King of England, was dead (William the Fourth had just died) and his knowledge of the other European countries was much upon the same scale. I found that gambling was here carried on to an extent which was really deplorable.

July 21.

I started at half-past five for the botanic gardens, diligently inspected them, and afterwards made a set of magnetic observations; this occupied a large portion of the morning. I however still had time to geologise for about three hours, and then rode back to Santa Cruz, where I did not arrive till late at night.

STATISTICS OF THE CANARY ISLANDS. TABLES.

July 22.

In the morning I renewed my magnetic observations and, having dined at the table d'hote, I passed the afternoon in calling upon several persons, and collecting such information regarding the group of islands as I could pick up. Two statistical tables then given to me I have here inserted.

The first shows the extent of the seven larger islands and the average number of inhabitants in each. On these numbers I think dependence may be placed, as they nearly agree, in the total, with that given by Tarrente in the Geografia Universal (1828) who makes it 196,517, being about 12,000 above the number given by Humboldt for the gross population at the end of the last century.

The second table gives the quantity of the most important products raised annually in each island.

TABLE OF EXTENT AND NUMBER OF INHABITANTS OF THE SEVEN LARGER ISLANDS.

TABLE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PRODUCTS OF EACH ISLAND.

To these I have added a short table showing the mean heat of every month at Tenerife, as deduced from a continued series of daily observations by Dr. Savignon and Mr. Richardson, at Laguna between the years 1811 and 1818, to which is annexed another of the quantity of rain which fell during some months of the years 1812 and 1813.

The two gentlemen who had made these observations having since died, I was not able to obtain any of the actual thermometrical observations, but to the son of Mr. Richardson I am obliged for having allowed me to copy the results contained in these tables.

SUMMARY OF OBSERVATIONS MADE BY DR. SAVIGNON* AND MR. RICHARDSON, AT LAGUNA.

(*Footnote. Monsieur Savignon, Medecin du Gouvernement, se distingue par un caractere honorable et des connoissances etendues dans la profession. Voyage aux Terres Australes Tome 1 page 21.)

La temporatura media de la Laguna puedi considerarse de 63 de Fahrenheit, dentro las casas del centro de la Ciudad, en sombra y al ayre libre; segun resulta de 8 Anos de observaciones, no interrumpidas ni un solo dia desde 1811 a 1818.*

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AT ORATAVA AND SANTA CRUZ.

(*Footnote. The mean temperature of Laguna may be estimated at 63 degrees of Fahrenheit, within doors, in the middle of the town; the thermometer being placed in the shade, and exposed to the air. Result of eight years' uninterrupted daily observations from 1811 to 1818.)

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AT ORATAVA AND SANTA CRUZ.

A few observations taken on board the Beagle during the five days it lay at Santa Cruz seemed to give a mean heat of about 76 degrees; but it must be remembered that these observations were made in a vessel lying only about a quarter of a mile from the shore and exposed to the constant rays of the sun during six days of a season considered by the inhabitants to be a very warm one. I do not therefore think that the observations of Dr. Savignon and Mr. Richardson, taken under such very different circumstances at Laguna, which Von Buch estimates at 264 toises above the sea, could be far from the truth.

The annual mean temperature of Santa Cruz according to Von Buch is 71 degrees 8' Fahrenheit, or 21 degrees 8' of the centigrade scale.

OCCASIONAL VIOLENT STORMS.

From Mr. Cochrane, a very intelligent English merchant whom I met there, I obtained much information on various points, and he brought to my notice the violent storms of wind and rain which occur on the island occasionally during the rainy season, and cause great destruction and damage.

DAMAGE BY STORM OF 1826.

One had passed over in the month of March of the year I was there (1837) and I was fortunate enough to obtain an official account of the damage occasioned by another in November 1826, which is here annexed. A similar one was experienced, as will be seen by the table, in January 1812, when 5.24 inches of rain fell in twenty-four hours.

En la noche del 7 al 8 de Novembre 1826, se experimento un temporal de Viento y Agua, que causo on todas les Yslas muchos estragos. En 8 pueblos de la de Tenerife, se sufrion las des-gracias que manifiesta el siguente Estado.

[In the night between the 7th and 8th of November 1826 was experienced a storm of wind and rain which caused great ravages in all the islands. In 8 districts of Tenerife were sustained the losses enumerated below.]

COLUMN 1: PUEBLOS. Towns.

COLUMN 2: PERSONAS. Persons.

COLUMN 3: CUSAE DESTRUIDAS. Houses Destroyed.

COLUMN 4: ANIMALES. Animals.

COLUMN 5: CASAS ARRUINADAS. Houses Ruined.

Villa de la Oratava 104 144 591 75.

Puerto de la Cruz 32 31 23 6.

Realejo de Arriba 25 41 - -.

Realejo de Abajo 14 9 - 2.

Guancha 52 72 344 31.

Rambla 10 14 13 -.

Ycod 5 - - -.

Santa Ursula 1 - 38 -.

VOCABULARY OF THE CANARIAN DIALECTS.

Sunday July 23.

I procured a few words of the original languages of the Guanches from in old government manuscript, and as from this circumstance no doubt can exist as to its authenticity, I have inserted them.

Several of these will be found already published in the History of the Canary Islands by Glas (page 174) with occasional slight differences of spelling, whilst the rest, though few in number, are, as far as I am aware, now first given.

VOCABULARY OF TENERIFE, OF CANARY AND PALMA.

Such scanty vocabularies and some mummies from Tenerife, scattered through the cabinets of the curious in various parts of Europe, are the only existing records of the race which held possession of these islands on the descent of John de Betancourt, about the year 1400, and who were nearly exterminated within little more than a century after.

ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA GUANCHINESA O DE TENERIFE.

(Some words of the language of the Guanches, or of Tenerife.)

COLUMN 1: GUANCHEAN.

COLUMN 2: SPANISH.

COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.

Achamam : Dios : God.

Achano : Ano : A year.

Achicaxna (Achicarna, Glas.) : Villano : A peasant.

Achimencey : Hidalgo : A nobleman.

Ataman : - : Heaven.

Axa (Ara, Glas.) : Cabra : A Goat.

Banot : Vara Endurecida : A Pole hardened (by fire).

Cancha : Perro : A Dog.

Achicuca : Hijo : A son.

Cichiciquizo : Escudero : A Squire.

Guan (Coran, Glas.) : Hombre : A man.

Guanigo : Cazuela de Barro : An Earthen vessel.

Hara (Ana, Glas.) : Oveja : A Sheep.

Mencey : El Rey : The King.

Oche (Ahico, Glas.) : Mantera : A mantle.

Sigone : Capitan : A Captain.

Tano : Cebada : Barley.

Xerios : Zapatos : Shoes.

ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DE CANARIA.

(Some words of the language of Canary.)

COLUMN 1: CANARY.

COLUMN 2: SPANISH.

COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.

Ahorac : Dios : God.

Almogaron : Adoratorio : A Temple or place of worship.

Amodagas : Varos-tostados : Poles hardened (by fire).

Aramotanoque : Cebada : Barley.

Aridaman : Cabra: A Goat.

Carianas : Espuerta : A Rush or Palm-basket.

Doramas : Narices : Nostrils.

Gofio : Farina de cebada tostada : Flour of baked Barley.

Guanarteme : El Rey : The King.

Guaire : El Consejero : The Councillor.

Magado : Garrote de Guerra : Poles or sticks used as weapons.

Tahagan (Taharan, Glas.) : Oveja : A Sheep.

Tamaranona : Carne Frita : Roasted or broiled meat.

Tamarco : Camisa de pieles : A Garment or shirt of hides or skins.

ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA PALMESA.

(Some words of the language of Palma.)

COLUMN 1: PALMA.

COLUMN 2: SPANISH.

COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.

Abora : Deos : God.

Adijirja : Arroyo : A Rivulet.

Asero : Lugar Fuerte : A Stronghold.

Atinariva : Puerco : A Hog.

Aguayan : Perro : A Dog.

Mayantigo : Pedazo de Cielo : Heavenly.

Tidote : Monte : A Hill.

Tiguevite : Cabra : A Goat.

Tigotan : Cielos : The Heavens.

Yruene : El Diablo : The Devil.

OF THE OTHER ISLANDS.

ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DE FUERTEVENTURA Y LANZEROTA.

(Some words of the language of Fortaventura and Lanzerota.)

COLUMN 1: FUERTEVENTURA AND LANZEROTA.

COLUMN 2: SPANISH.

COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.

Aho : Leche : Milk.

Attaha : Hombre de Valor : A Valiant Man.

Elecuenes : Adoratorio : A Place of devotion.

Guanigo : Cazuela de Barro : An earthen vessel.

Guapil : Sombrero : A Hat.

Horbuy : Cuero : A Skin or Hide.

Maxo (Ma, Glas.) : Zapatos : Shoes.

Tabite : Tarro pequeno : A small earthen pan.

Tamocen : Cebada : Barley.

Tezezes : Varas de Acebucha : Poles of the wild olive tree.

ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DEL HIERRO Y GOMERA.

(Some words of the language of Ferro and Gomera.)

COLUMN 1: FERRO AND GOMERA.

COLUMN 2: SPANISH.

COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.

Aculan : Manteca : Butter.

Achemen : Leche : Milk.

Aemon : Agua : Water.

Banot : Garrote de Guerra : War Clubs.

Ganigo : Cazuela de Barro : An earthen vessel.

Haran : Helocho : Furze.

Fubaque : Reses gordas : Fat cattle.

Guatativoa : Un convita : A gathering to a Banquet.

Tahuyan : Bas quinas : A Petticoat of Skins.

Tamasagues : Veras largas : Long Poles.

GUANCHE BONE CAVE. AND REMARKS. MARINE BLOWING STONE. It was in the course of my enquiries for words of the Guanche language that I accidentally heard yesterday, from an old inhabitant, of the existence of a cave in the rocks, about 3 miles to the north-east of Santa Cruz, which it was impossible to enter, but which, when examined from the sea, could be observed to be full of bones. This cave, he said, was known to the old inhabitants by the name of La Cueva de los Guanches; and according to traditionary report it had been the burying-place of the original inhabitants of this island. Several English merchants of whom I made enquiries knew nothing of it, even by report, but the master of the hotel was aware of its existence and promised to procure me guides to it. Although this day was Sunday, yet, as I was to sail in the afternoon, the inducement was too strong to resist, and I started in a boat at 6 o'clock with Mr. Walker our surgeon, taking my geological hammer as I intended to return overland.

When we had proceeded about a mile and a half from Santa Cruz I was astonished to hear, from the rocks on the shore, a loud roaring noise, and to see large clouds apparently of ascending smoke. I landed to ascertain the cause of this, and found it arose from one of those hollow rocks which are sometimes seen on our own coast and are known by various names, such as blowing stones, boiling kettles, etc. etc. I had however never seen one at all to be compared to this in size. It was formed by a hole in the rocks through which the water is first poured as the waves rush in; and then is partly driven out with a loud noise through a hole far up, and partly returns, in the form of spray, by the opening through which it was at first impelled. By assuming a proper position with regard to the sun a most beautiful rainbow is seen in this spray as it is dashed high into the air, and the whole is well worthy of a visit. Having collected some shells and geological specimens we again embarked for the cave.

On reaching the spot we distinctly observed, from the shore, the mouths of two caves full of bones. As the Guanches were in the habit of embalming their dead I entertained hopes of obtaining from them a mummy, of which there are several preserved in the Canary Islands. Upon landing however I found that they were utterly inaccessible, being situated in a perpendicular rock about 150 feet above the level of high water mark, and a considerable distance beneath the summit of the cliff. I had indulged a hope of being able to swing into one of the caves by means of a rope suspended from the top, but, owing to a large rock which projects from above quite over their mouths, this would be very difficult. Several bones had been blown out of the apertures, which I collected and found them to have belonged to man, but otherwise displaying nothing remarkable.

I can scarcely entertain a doubt but these caves really were the burying-places of the ancient Guanches, yet how they were approached I cannot conceive; probably there might have been an entrance to them from the interior of the country. I searched but my time was short and I could find no traces of such. An interesting question here remains to be solved and I trust some future traveller may be induced to attempt it.

There is only one other supposition I could frame on this subject, and to this I am led from the fact of the bones lying so immediately in the caves' mouths. Could a party of the Guanches, when so oppressed and so cruelly treated by the Spaniards, have taken refuge by some means in these caverns, and afterwards, from their retreat being cut off, have found themselves unable to escape and have here perished miserably; looking out of the cavern to the last for that assistance they were never doomed to receive? If they had managed to enter these caves by a narrow pathway running along the face of the cliffs, which the Spaniards afterwards destroyed, such an occurrence might readily have taken place.

Having completed my examination I dismissed the boat and walked back to Santa Cruz, from whence we sailed at five o'clock this evening.