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INTRODUCTION

The Gta Trek

Clocking in with approximately 633km (393 miles) distance, 44,000m in ascent (and the same in descent), a low of 295m and a high of 2804m above sea level, and crossing 62 passes, the Grande Traversata delle Alpi entails a full 47 days on the trail, taking 248hr 40min. Striking out a mere stone’s throw from the Italian and French Riviera on the Mediterranean coast, it embarks on a remarkable journey across one third of Italy’s alpine arc, the western sector. Mighty stone giants line the way, monumental landmarks that take turns supervising breathtaking backgrounds on what is probably Italy’s most rewarding long-distance walking route. Arduous mountain passes where the eye gazes over boundless horizons of rugged rock and snowscapes are encountered on a daily basis. Following on are emerald meadows spread with glorious wildflowers in peaceful val eys where age-old pastoral activities are still practised, part of a traditional way of life in far-flung hamlets. One of the many beauties of the GTA is that it drops into inhabited settlements on an almost daily basis, giving walkers a privileged look into alpine communities where ageing farmers still don cloth caps and cords, their womenfolk often clad in timeless black.

Pathways can be enjoyed in peace and quiet for days on end as the itinerary is little trodden – unless herds of chamois, comical marmot families and impressive birds of prey are taken into account. In between outstanding stages the occasional link stretch can be less exciting, but such days give time to meditate on past experiences without risking ‘overload’ and being overwhelmed by an excess of brilliant alpine scenery! Few parts of the Alps can guarantee such a memorable kaleidoscope of experiences for walkers.

Italy’s Western Alps

Have I discovered a district that exceeds all others in beauty? Or do the Alps become more beautiful to us at each succeeding visit? Or is it that after an absence of nearly two years I beheld them with the eyes of the exile who is restored again to his beloved home? Whatever be the reason, I am like a man who has found a treasure, and whose avarice cannot check his longing to declare it.

(R.L.G. Irving, 1911)

The western sweep of the Italian Alps traversed by the GTA embraces distinct mountainous groups, and walkers cannot fail to notice the changes in the landscape as the trek progresses. On the map the curvaceous reliefs resemble an outstretched hand, the spaces between the fingers representing the valleys branching off exponentially as they climb. Starting closest to the Mediterranean and topped by 2651m Marguareis are the Ligurian Alps or Alpi Ligure, cause of Irving’s wonder. Characterised by smooth pale mountains they consist mainly of limestone, a sedimentary rock deposited some 200 million years back in a warm tropical sea, but gradually shaped into karst terrain by the dissolving effect of rainwater. Of the extensive limestone cave systems over 500 have been recorded to date by speleologists, but exploration is ongoing; the most extensive has 13 entrances, is 40km long and 950m deep. Since 1978 a good 6700ha have been protected under the well-run Parco Naturale Alta Val Pesio e Tanaro.

Argentera, the highest peak in the Maritime Alps

As of the road pass Colle di Tenda on the border with France, the Ligurian Alps are followed by the Maritime Alps or Alpi Marittime, which feature stocky 3297m Argentera. D.W. Freshfield observed them at length from the Côte d’Azur: ‘Day by day, in the clear winter sunshine, I had seen from the hills round Cannes the snowy chain’, later noting that they gave access to ‘views… of surpassing beauty’. On the other hand the rugged core was described for its ‘crests that are all exceedingly precipitous and narrow, sharp as knives and jagged as saw blades’ by Austrian naturalist Fritz Mader (1895). These dramatic mountains of igneous-metamorphic origin assume shades of grey, orange, Prussian blue and purple, while intense patches of red (due to the presence of iron) can even interfere with a compass. Granite is predominant alongside gneiss, from intrusions of ancient lava. A handful of modest ice and snowfields survive, and glacial modelling is widespread both here and in the following groups. The notably abundant wildlife is monitored by the competent Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime, which traces its origins back to 1855 when land was donated to the Italian king for the purposes of a game reserve; the largest park in Piedmont now covers an impressive 28,000ha.

That chain is succeeded by the Cottian Alps, or Alpi Cozie, beginning in Valle Stura and boasting the spectacular isolated 3841m Monviso (Monte Viso), clearly visible from the city of Turin in northwest Italy. Bound for Cuneo by train D.W. Freshfield wrote (1880): ‘The rich vineyards and campanili of the plain form a shifting foreground, while against the sky towers, solitary and sublime, the noble pyramid of Monte Viso, fulfilling beyond all other Alpine peaks our childhood’s ideal of a mountain’. At its foot is the 465ha Riserva Naturale Speciale Pian del Re, encompassing the source of Italy’s most important river – the Po – then extending the entire course of the waterway. The Monviso is composed of relatively young metamorphic rock with a good percentage of so-called ‘greenstone’, while the southern reaches of the Cottians mean a predominance of limestone. Here lies the Gran Bosco di Salbertrand; 70% of this forestry reserve is cloaked in magnificent fir and larch woodland, and is home to a large deer population. The Cottian range purportedly took its name from Marcus Julius Cottius, a contemporary of Augustus and Roman ruler of the Susa valley, which marks their border with the neighbours.

Climbing towards Passo d’Orgials (Stage 9)

According to legend the appellation for the Graian Alps, or Alpi Graie, commemorates the passage of mythical Greek hero Hercules (Ercole Graio) over the Piccolo San Bernardo pass, allegedly between labours. Extensive glaciers and nevées overlie metamorphic formations here, the result of volcanic material transformed during the raising of the Alpine chain in the Tertiary period 54–57 million years ago. U-shaped valleys and armchair cirques are widespread, as are curious ‘roches moutonnées’, polished stone humps emerging from the ground, so-named for their resemblance to sheep. The Graians take in Europe’s highest mountain, Mont Blanc, as well as the superb 4061m Gran Paradiso peak, which gave its name to Italy’s very first national park. The 70,000ha Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso (mostly in the Valle d’Aosta region) dates back to 1922 when King Vittorio Emanuele III handed over this former hunting reserve, which boasts surprising concentrations of wildlife along with 450km of paved tracks.

Lastly, as of the Valle d’Aosta the GTA enters the realms of the Pennine Alps or Alpi Pennine, located on the edge of Switzerland. Known as the Central Alps, they are crowned by the magnificent glaciated 4634m Monte Rosa, Europe’s second summit after Mont Blanc. The range also includes the Matterhorn and the Parco Naturale Alta Valsesia; clocking in at 6500ha it calls itself the highest park in Europe.

Monte Rosa peaks at 4634m

Piedmont

All these mountain ranges are situated in the Italian region of Piedmont – Piemonte in Italian – which aptly means ‘foot of a mountain’. It assumed strategic importance in the Roman era, providing easy access to Gaul and the transalpine provinces. As a border region it has also played host to an intriguing range of ethnic and religious groups over the ages. The vast swathe from the Ligurian to the Cottian Alps is still home to 200,000 people claiming to belong to the curious Occitan cultural group. Originally hailing from central France and the Spanish Pyrenees, they boast a distinctive red/yellow flag and recently revived Franco-Provençal dialect, the language of the troubadours. Their thriving folk music and traditional dances star the ghironda or ‘wheel fiddle’ akin to a laptop hurdy-gurdy (a stringed instrument played by turning a handle).

On the other hand the Waldenses, a local Protestant group, have a terrible history of persecution. They are known in Italian as the Valdesi after their founder Valdo, a wealthy 12th-century merchant from Lyon who gave away all his worldly goods and turned to evangelism. Attracted by the simple values, many Piemontese joined his ranks. However, all followers were excommunicated by the Catholic Church and, despite the Reformation, were massacred in Italy’s Valle Pellice in 1655. Dubbed the ‘Piedmont Easters’ the episode drew indignation and solidarity from Protestant groups throu ghout Europe, prompting Cromwell to dispatch an ambassador to Turin to protest, and inspiring John Milton to compose ‘On the Late Massacher in Piemont’:

Avenge O Lord thy slaughter’d Saints, whose bones

Lie scatter’d on the Alpine mountains cold.

During the so-called ‘Glorioso Rimpatrio’, ‘glorious return home’ from exile in Switzerland in 1689–90 – a fortnight-long march across treacherous alpine passes – a 370-strong group held out all winter long on a ridge above Balsiglia. Trapped in a treacherous circle by 4000 enemy troops equipped with cannons, the Waldenses were saved by thick providential fog. Only days later the Italian king allied his country with Protestant Austria and England and broke with Catholic France, making life somewhat easier for the Waldenses, estimated at 30,000 in Italy today. As of late medieval times, Piedmont was the stronghold of the expanding Savoy dynasty, a prosperous and powerful regime that at a much later date (1861) provided modern Italy with its very first king, Vittorio Emanuele II.

Piedmont played a key role in the latter years of the World War II conflict. After 1943 – when the authoritarian regime in Italy capitulated and the armistice was signed with the Allies – military chaos broke out in Italy as troops were temporarily leaderless. Many took to the hills to form companies of partisans as the resistance movement grew. Due to its northerly location Piedmont was amongst the last places to be liberated (in 1945) by the Allied advance. Its mountains provided perfect hideouts and protected bases for operations designed to disrupt the Nazi occupiers and their local fascist partners. Air drops of essential material by the Allies helped the effort. In one example planes flew from bases in North Africa to the Pesio valley outside Cuneo, as part of the operation led by the UK Special Forces and known as ‘Mission Charterhouse’.

Typical Walser house in Val Vogna (Stage 41)

Little by little the post-war period in Piedmont witnessed population shifts from the uplands to the Po plain, drawn by jobs as industrial development got underway, peaking in the 1950–60s. Turin, for instance, meant the Fiat automobile factory, and Ivrea Olivetti office technology. Hand-in-hand with the growth came a dramatic increase in demand for power. The abundance of water on hand in the Alps made hydroelectricity a natural choice. Dams, gigantic conduits and hydroelectric plants dating back to the 1950–60 period – its heyday in Italy – are encountered across the Graians and the Maritime Alps.

The spread of industry notwithstanding, ancient farming and agricultural practices have survived. South-facing slopes were shaped into terraces for cereal and grape cultivation. There are ingenious examples of exploitation of the sun’s heat, with vines draped over trellising leaning on dark rock faces; this can still be seen in the Susa and Aosta valleys. Moreover, though the Piedmont Alps are dotted with ghost villages and abandoned hamlets, a surprising number of hardy shepherds and herders endure spartan conditions for months on end so their flocks can indulge in summer grazing on high. Milk from the sheep, cows and goats is skilfully transformed into high-quality dairy products. Where feasible, butter is packed into wicker panniers loaded onto mules or horses and accompanied valleywards on a weekly basis. Otherwise – as mains electricity is a rare commodity – there are ingenious age-old systems of refrigeration such as the crutin in the Gran Paradiso area, whereby a cooling stream is channelled through a low hut, ensuring a constantly low temperature. In the Ligurian-Maritime Alps are curious sella or trüna: built on a sloping hillside and partially underground, they boast a vaulted roof of turf, an efficient insulator. Cheeses are brought to slow maturation in ancient low-slung stone huts, often half-dug into the mountainside.

Visitors with an interest in rural architecture will be intrigued by the variety of buildings. Rudimentary shelters make the most of sloping land, natural rock overhangs and huge fallen boulders, natural anti-avalanche barriers. A balma is a simple type, a cave at best with a low protective wall of loose stones; the shepherds’ summertime residence or gias continues to be the most widespread. From the Latin iacere (to rest), it ranges from a lean-to overlaid with branches and corrugated sheeting to a more comfortable stone hut.

Substantial village settlements are generally composed of slender multi-storeyed dwellings sporting narrow jutting balconies, with ground-floor accommodation for chickens and cows. In southwestern Piedmont the roofing more often than not is rusty corrugated sheeting lashed down with branches and wire. The traditional system, sadly all but disappeared, employed straw thatching using locally grown cereals such as rye. Low cost (if rather high maintenance) the dried grass was, however, especially vulnerable when marauding invaders lit blazes. Few here had access to – or could afford – longer-lasting material such as ardesia slate stone, known as lose or piode, widespread in the valleys further north. In the districts with copious quarries, its use dates back to the 1400s. Skilled craftsmen are required to cut and lay the hefty slabs in artistic overlapping scales. Valle Bellino di Varaita, Valle d’Aosta and Valsesia are justifiably proud of their graceful constructions in local stone.

Shepherd at Alpe Chiaromonte (Stage 35)

Walking the Gta

The GTA was created by a group of Italian enthusiasts in the 1970s to mirror a French itinerary, though the first highly informative guidebooks are long out of print. Since the mid-1980s Piedmont devotee Professor Werner Bätzing of the University of Erlangen-Nürnberg has been convincing a steady stream of German-speaking hikers to embark on the route from north to south, essentially Monte Rosa to the Mediterranean. It is probably due to their passage that the route still exists and hostels in out-of-the-way places continue to function. This English-language guide follows the original south–north direction with the aim of adding to the mammoth Sentiero Italia route (see Cicerone’s book on the GEA Trekking in the Appennines).

Not everyone has a full 47 days available to dedicate to the entire GTA (though the chances are that walkers who complete any section will be tempted back to continue with successive stretches). In order to make planning more manageable, in this guide the trek has been divided into four parts of approximately two-week lengths. Each is made up of one-day stages, concluding at a village or refuge where accommodation, meals and often transport are available.

Sticking to these divisions is by no means mandatory; places suitable as intermediate stopovers are listed, as are exit points to enable walkers to either leave or slot in as desired. Fit walkers – or those in a hurry – can combine the occasional shorter stages.

The trek follows good paths and does not demand special alpine expertise. Nothing more than a decent level of general fitness and willpower is required to deal with the lengthy hauls.

 Part I (Stages 1–11) starts at Viozene and traverses the Ligurian and Maritime Alps, concluding at Pontechianale in Valle Stura.

 Part II (Stages 12–23) begins at Pontechianale and crosses the Cottian Alps, ending at Susa in Valle di Susa.

 Part III (Stages 24–36) strikes out from Susa across the Graian Alps, reaching Quincinetto in Valle d’Aosta.

 Part IV (Stages 37–47) commences at Quincinetto and moves off through the Pennine Alps, terminating at Molini Calasca in Valle Anzasca.

Highlights

Thanks to the abundance of links with transport hubs, a variety of rewarding circuits can be worked out. Suggestions concentrating on the highlights and suitable for shorter one-week holidays are given here. Each begins and ends at a location served directly by – or within reasonable distance of – public transport.

 6 days Through the heart of the magnificent Maritime Alps from Limonetto (Stage 3) to the Terme di Valdieri, followed by a loop via Rifugio Questa and Lago di Valscura, returning to the Terme (Stage 8).

 7 days Approaching the Monviso from Valle Varaita (Stage 15) and traversing the Waldense/Occitan valleys as far as hospitable Usseaux (Stage 21), in the proximity of the massive 18th-century fort of Fenestrelle in Val Chisone.

 6 days Starting out from Susa (Stage 24) at the GTA’s entry into the Graian Alps, a series of stiff climbs across high scenic passes, destination the Gran Paradiso National Park. Noasca (Stage 29) is a suitable point to bail out.

 7 days From Piedicavallo (Stage 41) in pretty Valle Cervo, the GTA hones in on Monte Rosa, each day offering new angles on the glaciated massif. Picturesque Walser villages are visited and the trek’s conclusion incorporated (Stage 47).

Main peaks

The GTA encounters an impressive string of major alpine peaks, each a worthwhile objective in its own right. Walkers with basic climbing experience can tackle the Marguareis and Rocciamelone, while the Argentera, Monviso, Gran Paradiso and Monte Rosa are reserved for experienced mountaineers or those accompanied by a guide. Mid–late summer is the recommended period for ascents so as to minimise chances of encountering icy conditions. For further details see Appendix II.

When to Go

As is the rule throughout the Alps the midsummer months from late June to mid-September are ideal for this trek. From early July the highest passes will normally be snow-free and – most importantly – all accommodation will be open. Typical summer conditions will enable you to walk in a T-shirt, shorts and sunhat, the heat tempered by occasional downpours and storms; but ‘once-in-a-blue-moon’ dumps of snow – even in August – should not be discounted. The ranges on the very edge of the Piedmont plain are sometimes enshrouded in insidious mist that rises from the lower altitudes where it forms in midsummer. Visibility is obviously spoilt and vigilance essential to keep on the right track. (Bottom line: be prepared for everything!) The onset of autumn can bring gloriously clear skies (if chilly air), a wonderful time for those used to bivouacking under the stars when needs be. Late spring is also suitable for self-sufficient experienced walkers prepared to deal with substantial snow cover. Many posto tappa hostels adjoining a restaurant or hotel are open all year round, and make perfect bases for day excursions out of season.

The busiest period for Italian holidaymakers is the first half of August. In addition to the Christmas–New Year–Epiphany period and Easter, there are public holidays on 25 April, 1 May, 2 June, 15 August, 1 November and 8 December.

Getting There

See the general map (p.7) for rail and road networks.

By air

Thanks to the proximity of international airports in northwestern Italy and neighbouring France and Switzerland, access to the GTA – and away at its conclusion – is straightforward. (See table on opposite page.)

Handy for the trek’s conclusion, the city of Domodossola has both a direct train service to Geneva airport (3hr) as well as a special shuttle bus to Milan’s Malpensa airport (reservations essential at 0324 240333 or www.comazzibus.com). There are also frequent trains to Milan.

By rail

Northwest Italy is served by scores of long-haul international trains from France and Switzerland, the majority calling at Milan or Turin. Unless travelling on an international route or long-distance at peak times, seat reservation is not necessary and fares reasonable. Note The FS Italian Rail is now introducing cheap fares on some routes – for special offers check out the web site www.trenitalia.com, also useful for timetable information.

By road

Several major toll-paying autostrada arteries feed into northwest Italy from France via the Mediterranean coast and Ventimiglia; further north from Modane via Bardonecchia to Susa; through the Mont Blanc tunnel and a motorway down Valle d’Aosta. There are also myriad minor roads crossing passes from Switzerland.

To the start of the GTA

Trains from Turin’s Porta Nuova station run south to Ceva, where a change must be made for the single-track line to Ormea. Services from the Italian Riviera via Savona also stop at Ceva, as do those from Cuneo via Fossano or Mondovì. Ormea can also be reached by road thanks to the Imperia–Cuneo coach. From Ormea a July–August shuttle bus covers the final 15.4km to the actual start of the GTA at Viozene, but check with the local Tourist Office 0174 392157 as it does not run daily; you may need to call a taxi ( 0174 391503).

Access to the start for Parts II–IV is detailed in the route description, as are the many exits.

FLIGHT DESTINATIONS FROM THE UK

Both low-cost and regular airlines from the UK fly into the following destinations (check the individual airport’s web sites if flights from other countries are needed).

 Turin (Torino): Caselle Airport (www.aeroportoditorino.it) to the north of the city has flights from British Airways (www.britishairways.com), Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com). Trains then convey passengers to the centre of Turin in 20min; the coach takes twice as long.

 Milan (Milano) has two airports, both included on www.sea-aeroportimilano.it: Malpensa is served by Alitalia (www.alitalia.it) and British Airways. The best way to cover the 50km into town is by bus to Gallarate station then train to Milano Centrale. Better placed is Linate: with flights by Alitalia, British Airways, British Midland (www.flybmi.com) and Easyjet, it is linked by regular buses to central Milan (7km away), from where ongoing trains reach Turin in just under 2hr.

 Genoa (Genova, www.airport.genova.it) has flights operated by Alitalia, British Airways and Ryanair. Buses run to Genova Brignole railway station every 30min for the 3–4hr trip via Savona to Ceva (or Cuneo).

 Just over the border in France, Nice’s Côte d’Azur airport (www.nice.aeroport.fr) is served by British Airways, British Midland and Jet2 (www.Jet2.com). After the short bus trip to the railway station Nice Ville, passengers embark on a scenic 3hr trip via the Roya valley to Cuneo.

 The airport at Geneva in neighbouring Switzerland (www.gva.ch) has flights by British Airways, Easyjet and Jet2. A convenient train heads south for the 4.5hr trip via Domodossola to Milan, from where there are plenty of runs for Turin. (It is only marginally faster but more complicated to change at Domodossola for connections via Novara to Turin.)

Local Transport

The alpine valleys traversed by the GTA are served by a decent network of buses and the odd train, aiding walkers who need to enter/exit at intermediate points. Information is given at the relevant stages in the route description, and contact details for the transport companies are listed below in the order encountered on the GTA.

Assistance concerning public transport for the whole of Piedmont can be obtained at toll-free 800 990097 (011 6910000 from a mobile phone) or www.regione.piemonte.it/prontotrasporti.

Italian State Rail is 892021 or www.trenitalia.com.

The bus companies:

Viani 0174 391161 operates the Imperia–Cuneo coach service via Ormea.

Minazzo 0174 391503 does the Ormea–Viozene summer bus.

Val Pesio 0171 734496 serves Val Pesio and covers the midsummer Terme di Valdieri run.

Benese 0171 692929 means the Limonetto–Limone bus, the Entracque and Terme di Valdieri services, Acceglio in Valle Maira, all connecting to Cuneo.

ATI ( 0171 67400 or 0175 43744 or www.atibus.it operates the year-round lines from Cuneo to Pontebernardo and Valle Stura, also lines from Saluzzo to Pontechianale and Paesana in Valle Po.

Parola Viaggi 0171 940711 operates the Valle Varaita midsummer run serving S. Anna and other villages in Valle Varaita di Bellino, and extending to Casteldelfino.

SAPAV 800 801901 or www.sapav.com does the Bobbio Pellice to Torre Pellice run as well as proceeding to Pinerolo and Usseaux. Moreover it operates from Perosa Argentina in Val Chisone to Ghigo di Prali in Val Germanasca, as well as the twice-weekly Perrero-Didiero and Balsiglia services in summer; it also covers Valle di Susa.

SATTI 800 990097 or www.satti.it (click on ‘extraurbana’) does Usseglio to Lanzo (trains connections to Turin) as well as Valle Locana, namely Ceresole Reale via Noasca to Pont Canavese, and branch lines to Talosio, Ronco Canavese and Piamprato. It is also responsible for the Ivrea–Traversella run.

SADEM 800 801600 www.sadem.it serves the Valle d’Aosta including Ivrea, Quincinetto and Aosta.

ATAP 015 8408117 with runs from Biella to Oropa and Valle Cervo, also Varallo to Alagna Valsesia and Rimella, as well as to Rima and Carcoforo both via Rimasco.

Comunità Montana Strona e Basso Toce 0323 87022 or www.vcoinbus.it is responsible for the Valstrona service from Forno to Omegna and the Novara–Domodossola railway line.

Comazzi 800 011404 or www.vcoinbus.it connects Domodossola (on the Milan-Sempione railway line) with Molini di Calasca and Macugnaga on a daily basis.

Bus tickets should usually be purchased beforehand – often from a café, newspaper kiosk or tobacconist in the vicinity of the bus stop, and stamped on board. Where this is not possible just get on and ask the driver, though you may be charged a modest surcharge.

USEFUL TRAVEL AND TIMETABLE TERMINOLOGY

biglietto di andata (andata-ritorno)	single (return) ticket
cambio a	change at
coincidenza	connection
feriale	working days (ie Monday to Saturday)
festivo	Sundays and public holidays
giornaliero	daily
sciopero	strike
scolastico	schooldays
soppresso da… a…	no service from… to… (date)

How to use this Guide

During the route description the term ‘track’ is used for a vehicle-width lane that is unsurfaced. A ‘path’ is narrow and means pedestrians only, whereas a ‘road’ is sealed and open to traffic. Directions include compass bearings (N, SW, NNW and so forth) in addition to right (R) and left (L). Useful landmarks are given in bold type with their altitude in metres, abbreviated as ‘m’ (100m = 328ft). The Route Summary at the end of the book is helpful for planning purposes and includes accommodation, grocery shops and local transport.

Timing given in stage headings does not include extra time for resting, taking photographs, responding to the call of nature or indulging in picnics, so be flexible and always allow for extra when planning the day. Groups cannot expect to travel faster than the pace of their slowest member.

Ascent/descent or height gain and loss, ie how much you climb and drop during the walk, is given in metres above sea level, and abbreviated as ‘m’. In the Alps overall metres ascended and descended in a given day is of much greater significance than distance as it indicates how strenuous the route is. On moderately steep terrain it takes 1hr on average to ascend 300m (approx 1000ft) or descend 500m.

Distance is given in both kilometres and miles, intended only as a rough indicator of the length of each stage.

Difficulty on a scale of 1–3 is given to grade the stages of the trek:

 Grade 1: a straightforward footpath with a moderate slope, suitable for all walkers.

 Grade 2: fairly strenuous but not especially difficult.

 Grade 3: requires experience on mountain terrain, can entail exposed stretches and require a head for heights, if not difficulty with orientation.

In general the GTA rates mostly as Grade 2, the odd difficult part Grade 3, and the even rarer easy sections Grade 1.

Dos and Don’ts

‘When one starts early one hurries to gain all possible benefit from the shade, but a late start renders such haste futile; so we dawdled from the start’ enigmatic advice from W.M. Conway (1895)!

 Do start out as early as possible in the morning to allow for any necessary route detours due to landslips, flooded streams, damaged bridges and the like, not to mention getting lost, fatigue and so forth. Early starters also increase their chances of seeing wildlife, and decrease the likelihood of being caught out in storms which tend to come in the hottest part of the day, not to mention the disorienting fog which rolls in late morning.

 Do find time to get fit before embarking on the trek as it will maximise your enjoyment. It’s a pity if exhaustion interferes with appreciation of the wonderful scenery, and in any emergency healthy walkers will react better.

 Stick with your companions and never lose sight of them. Remember that a group’s rate is set by the slowest member.

 Don’t be overly ambitious; tackle stages suited to your capacity. Read the route description carefully before setting out.

 Don’t overload your rucksack. Weigh your pack on the bathroom scales (10kg absolute maximum). Don’t forget the extra weight of drinking water and food, and remember that as the afternoon wears on and the hut seems ever further away, your pack will inexplicably get heavier! Once you’ve packed the essentials, don’t be tempted to pop in anything that is not strictly indispensable. Your state of exhaustion in the evenings will almost definitely preclude reading – and therefore carrying – that paperback! Take lightweight gear, and transfer shampoo and so on to small plastic containers.

 Avoid walking in brand-new boots to reduce the chance of blisters; on the other hand, old worn boots may have insufficient grip and be unsafe on slippery terrain. Select your footwear carefully.

 Do check the weather forecast where possible – hut guardians are in the know. For Piedmont log onto www.regione.piemonte.it (click on ‘meteo’), otherwise 0171 66323 or 011 3185555. Be prepared to take a rest day or modify your itinerary if the conditions so dictate. Adverse conditions such as thick mist, icy rain or snow can transform even an easy Grade 1 path into a problem-fraught route. Should you be caught out in a storm, keep warm but stay away from metallic fixtures, dispose of your trekking poles for the time being, and avoid rock overhangs or prominent trees for shelter as they tend to attract lightning. Lying flat on the ground or curling up in a ball is usually recommended.

 Do sign the register at the refuges and include your next day’s destination; the information could be essential in case of a rescue operation.

 Don’t expect refuge staff to expend energy and resources on waste; take any rubbish to villages and towns where it can be disposed of appropriately.

 Be considerate when making a toilet stop. Keep away from watercourses, don’t leave unsightly paper lying around and remember that derelict buildings and rock overhangs could serve as a life-saving shelter for someone else.

Emergencies

‘Help’ is aiuto (pronounced eye-yoo-toh) and Ho bisogno di aiuto means ‘I need help’. Experienced staff at refuges can be relied on for help whenever necessary.

It is essential for all walkers to have some sort of insurance. Members of the European Union – with the addition of Australia – need the E111 form (usually available at post offices, although this system is due to change at the end of 2005); this ensures health cover and hospital care. All other nationals need separate insurance. It’s also a good idea for everyone to take out an additional policy for mountain activities and rescue operations, as these can be costly. Members of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) and the many affiliated groups with reciprocity agreements are automatically insured in case of accident. Residents of Britain can join the UK branch of the Austrian Alpine Club www.aacuk.uk.com 01707 386740, or the British Mountain eering Council www.thebmc.co.uk 0870 010 4878, which has a supplementary policy.

Getting assistance

118 gets you an ambulance or will put you through to soccorso alpino, the mountain rescue service that can send in qualified mountaineers and a helicopter if necessary. 113 is Italy’s general emergency number. Call 1515 to report incendi boschivi (forest fires).

A mobile phone can be extremely useful for alerting emergency services. Reception is not guaranteed in many alpine regions, though high passes tend to have a better signal than deep valleys. An old-fashioned whistle (or torch after dark) may be the best option. Use the internationally recognised signals: the call for help is SIX visual or audible signals per minute, to be repeated after a minute’s pause. The answer is THREE visual or audible signals per minute, to be repeated after a minute’s pause. Anyone hearing a call for help must contact the nearest refuge or police station as soon as possible.

When communicating with the rescue service, be prepared to provide the following information: your name, where you are, the nature of the accident, how many people need help and what type of injuries, exact location – altitude, landmarks, atmospheric conditions, any obstacles for the helicopter (eg overhead cables).

Waymarking and Maps

A good part of the GTA route is signed with official red/white waymarking – usually painted stripes on rocks or prominent landmarks, if not signposts. However, lengthy stretches are not, and local numbering is sporadically referred to, where present. It varies wildly.

Village fountains are common

Note At the time of writing a new waymarking campaign was being launched in the Province of Cuneo, accounting for the substantial initial section of the GTA. Consequently there may be the odd small discrepancy between the route description and the situation on the ground. Differences may also crop up due to the reintroduction of appellations in local dialects. A good rule is to trust waymarks rather than putting your faith in the map.

Special GTA waymarking

Local waymarks

As cartography goes an excellent general road map is the 1:200,000 Touring Club Italiano Piemonte e Valle d’Aosta. Walkers should have the detailed individual walking maps covering the stages they intend to trek. The simplified sketch maps provided in this guide are only intended to give the route and major landmarks. A commercial 1:50,000 or 1:25,000 map showing contour lines, landscape features, settlements, minor roads and mountain huts is priceless in case of bad weather, problems with orientation and exit routes (not to mention identification of far-off landmarks, a great source of satisfaction). The IGC, Istituto Geografico Centrale, is the main mapmaker for Piedmont – unfortunately unremarkable for accuracy, updating and graphics. Their 1:50,000 series have been used as the principal references for this guide. However, the initial stages for the GTA are also covered by excellent 1:25,000 maps by Blu Edizioni (www.bluedizioni.it). Lastly, several sheets of the new and exorbitantly priced ‘Alps sans Frontière’ 1:25,000 series can be used.

The IGC maps are available at leading map stores and outdoor suppliers in the UK, USA and Australia. Italian booksellers also do online orders: Libreria La Montagna, Turin www.librerialamontagna.it. Otherwise you can purchase them in local bookstores, newspaper stands and Park Visitor Centres once you’ve arrived. The Italian for ‘walking map’ is carta dei sentieri or carta escursionistica.

Recommended maps

Stages 1–8 IGC ‘Alpi Marittime e Liguri’ 1:50,000 sheet 8

Stages 1–2 Blu Edizioni ‘Alpi Liguri, Parco Naturale Alta Valle Pesio e Tanaro’ 1:25,000, cartoguida 2

Stages 3–8 Blu Edizioni ‘Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime’ 1:25,000, cartoguida 1

Stages 9–14 IGC ‘Valli Maira Grana Stura’ 1:50,000 sheet 7

Stages 14–19 IGC ‘Monviso’ 1:50,000 sheet 6

Stages 19–24 IGC ‘Valli di Susa, Chisone e Germanasca’ 1:50,000 sheet 1

Stages 24–28 IGC ‘Valli di Lanzo e Moncenisio’ 1:50,000 sheet 2

Stages 29–33 IGC ‘Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso’ 1:50,000 sheet 3

Stages 33–41 IGC ‘Ivrea, Biella, Bassa Valle d’Aosta’ 1:50,000 sheet 9

Stages 41–46 IGC ‘Monte Rosa, Alagna e Macugnaga’ 1:50,000 sheet 10

What to Take

The right gear is essential for a perfect walking holiday. A check list with suggestions follows:

 Sturdy walking boots, preferably not brand new, with non-slip soles and ankle support; trainers do not protect against sprained ankles.

 Comfortable rucksack and plastic bags for organising contents.

 Lightweight sleeping sheet (bag liner), essential for refuges and hostels.

 Waterproofs: jacket and overtrousers, or an ample poncho that covers your rucksack. A lightweight collapsible umbrella is indispensable for people who wear glasses.

 Telescopic trekking poles: handy for fording streams, boosting confidence during steep descents, easing weight off your back, hanging out washing, discouraging dogs, opening up passages through thick undergrowth, lowering branches of laden wild fruit trees…

 Sun protection: hat, glasses and ultra-high-factor cream – remember that the intensity of UV rays increases by 10% with each 1000m in altitude.

 Layered clothing to deal with bitter cold and snow through to sweltering sunshine: windproof jacket, fleece or pullover, wool hat and gloves, T-shirts, shorts, long pants (jeans are unsuitable).

 Swimming costume as cascading torrents and picturesque lakes abound; also useful if you take time out at one of the spas.

 Lightweight sandals or flip-flops for evenings in huts.

 Compass, maps, altimeter (optional but helpful), camera and film/batteries.

 Whistle, torch or headlamp (with spare batteries).

 Water bottle: plastic mineral-water bottles widely available in Italy are perfect.

 Plastic covering for map-reading in the rain.

 Salt tablets or electrolyte powders (such as Dioralyte from chemists) to combat depletion through sweating and prevent dehydration.

 First aid kit including Compeed (skin-like plasters for thwarting blisters if boots rub), antiseptic cream for nettle stings and insect bites, broad spectrum antibiotic.

 Lightweight towel + personal toiletries.

 Pegs or safety pins for attaching laundry to rucksack.

 Extra food such as muesli bars (hard to find in mountain village stores).

 Optional: lightweight stove and pan so you can prepare hot drinks, enabling you to get away early in the morning without having to wait for breakfast.

 Plentiful supply of euros in cash. Automatic Teller Machines (ATM) or cash dispensers are listed in the route description.

Accommodation

Walkers will enjoy some marvellous overnight stays, thanks to memorable Italian hospitality. There is a wide range of accommodation available:

 Small-scale comfortable hotels in villages

 Special walkers’ hostels, known as posto tappa

 High-altitude alpine huts, rifugio

 Unmanned bivacco shelters

 Your own tent.

The First three can – and should – be booked in advance: one day ahead is usually sufficient at off-peak times, but even months before is recommended for groups. The majority of the posto tappa establishments are family-run affairs so need a little advance warning to prepare evening meals. Refuges can be busy on Saturdays with local mountaineering groups, for example on Monviso. The middle fortnight of August is peak holiday season in Italy, so plan ahead for hotels. All necessary accommodation details are given in the walk descriptions, as are phone numbers for contacting the nearest Tourist Office. If your Italian is not up to scratch don’t hesitate to ask staff where you are staying to phone to book your accommodation for you; it is a common practice. However, all efforts at speaking Italian will be greatly appreciated, not to mention essential in some places: English-speakers in the isolated valleys of Piedmont can be counted on one hand! French can come in handy as it is widely understood and spoken. On the phone try:

Dormitory at Campello Monti posto tappa (Stage 45)

Pronto, vorrei prenotare un posto/due posti letto per domani sera Hello, I’d like to book 1 bed/2 beds for tomorrow night.

Parla inglese? Do you speak English?

Quanto costa? How much is it?

Grazie Thank you.

The posto tappa hostels, based on the excellent French gîte d’étape system, are located in hamlets or villages and are usually (but not always) more spacious and comfortable than the rifugi. Designed for walkers, guests stay in small dormitories, usually with an adjoining bathroom and hot shower. Some offer clean sheets and towels for a modest fee, and the odd one accepts payment by credit card. Self-caterers will occasionally have access to a kitchen; cooking facilities are listed when available, as are village grocery stores. It is a good idea to buy your supplies the afternoon you arrive rather than waste precious time the following morning waiting for shops to open. On the other hand Sunday openings are common in summer, and freshly baked bread may be available. It is a good idea to carry a supply of tea bags, condensed milk and biscuits.

Rif. Gardetta (Stage 12)

Several villages en route have modest hotels. Should you yearn for freshly ironed sheets and a large clean bath towel – not to mention privacy – it’s often no more than a few euros’ difference between staying at one of these or at the posto tappa.

RIFUGIO NORMS

 Boots are left on a rack at the entrance, where flip-flops are often provided.

 Service ceases from 10pm to 6am, which also means ‘lights out’ (the generator goes off).

 Unless otherwise indicated, payment is only accepted in euros cash.

 Remember that the majority of rifugi rely on costly helicopter transport for delivering supplies, once or twice per season. Fresh produce is rare.

 The dedicated staff have to be capable of dealing with everything from a blocked toilet, frozen pipes, refilling a diesel-powered generator, lugging firewood and provisions up steep stairs, repairing pumps and solar panels, organising rescue operations for walkers… and are expected to be gourmet chefs as well!

Cooking polenta at Rif. Arlaud (Stage 22)

Facilities at a rifugio are a little more spartan. These marvellously situated high-altitude huts owned by the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) are, more often then not, open to all walkers and mountaineers, whether members (who enjoy discounted rates) or not. They are only accessible on foot and are manned through the summer. Dormitories are again the rule, though bathrooms may be outdoors. If there’s no hot shower (doccia calda), there’s always a (cold) water tap and wash basin. Toilets range from hygienic if awkward ‘hole-in-the-floor’ WCs referred to as gabinetti alla turca (Turkish toilets), to the more usual sit-down types.

Half-board tends to be the rule everywhere; it makes life easier for the establishment and is generally a great deal for customers. Mezza pensione entails bed, a hot shower (occasionally charged extra), breakfast and dinner – pretty reasonable at around 30 Euros. Generally speaking continental-style breakfast (colazione) consists of a choice of caffè latte, tè or cioccolato caldo (hot chocolate) with bread, butter and jam (pane, burro, marmellata). Dinner (cena) on the other hand is a three- or four-course affair – a pasta dish or soup followed by meat and vegetables, dessert and/or cheese. As a rule drinks are billed separately. Many places will prepare packed lunches if given sufficient advance warning – ask for a pranzo al sacco or a simple panino con formaggio/prosciutto (roll with cheese/ham).

The majority of CAI rifugi also have basic winter premises, ricovero invernale, intended for emergency use when the hut is closed. These generally have bunk beds – hopefully with blankets – and some sort of cooking/heating facilities. Users need to bring their own food and sleeping bag. Experienced walkers who don’t mind roughing it can therefore embark on the GTA even when the rifugi are closed for business.

The bivacco is a small, unmanned hut that is always open. It has bunk beds, not necessarily blankets or heating, occasionally cooking facilities and usually easy access to water. A handful are encountered during the GTA.

Serious consideration should be given to the camping option. Anyone prepared to carry the extra equipment and weight is guaranteed a magnificent – not to mention cheaper – experience. Alternating wild pitches with hostels and rifugi is the perfect way to tackle the trek and get the most out of it. However, it does entail an extra burden so think carefully before loading up with tent, sleeping bag and cooking equipment. (Note Camping Gaz canisters are forbidden on planes but are widely available in Italy at city sports stores and main resorts.) Numerous stages entail gargantuan climbs to wonderful passes and wild high mountainous zones where it would be great to linger, rather than hurry away on the quest for comfortable accommodation in valley locations. A little advance planning (such as purchasing food in villages – though don’t forget that the shepherds often sell dairy products) can result in memorable alfresco dinners. Several of the resort villages on the GTA route have camping grounds (mentioned in the route description where known). With the exception of the protected parks and reserves, where pitching a tent is strictly forbidden, there are endless possibilities for nights out in spectacular isolated valleys.

Telephones

To phone Italy from overseas, use the international dialling code 39 before the number. When calling within Italy always include the area code and the initial 0, even if it’s local. Exceptions are toll-free numbers – which mostly start with 800 – or mobile phones, which begin with 3. When calling from a public phone a prepaid card can be handy as very few accept coins. A carta telefonica can be purchased from tobacconists and shops; remember to remove the dotted corner before use. A mobile phone can also be useful during the trek (recharger and adapter essential), although reception in the alpine valleys of Piedmont is only available about 50% of the time.

Gourmet picnic

Food and Drink

A wonderful array of local dishes is encountered at the guesthouses and refuges along the GTA. Be adventurous and ask for local specialities: Qual’é la vostra specialità?

A common way to begin a meal in Piedmont is with antipasti, starters. Unfailingly worthwhile and varied, they range from home-pickled vegetables to cold meats and cheeses. In addition to the ubiquitous prosciutto cotto or crudo (normal ham or ‘raw’ cured ham), there are infinite varieties of salami including cinghiale (boar), suino (pork), and even asinello (a type of donkey)! Leaner and more delicate is sliced mocetta: originally made with ibex meat nowadays it contains beef, marinated in spices, brandy and honey. In the Cuneo valleys hunt out caiet, a type of chunky salami that has been cooked with herbs. Unusual accompanying bread is dark pane all’acqua, a blend of cereals and malt.

A unique savoury dish from the Piedmont plains is bagna cauda: diners help themselves from a platter of raw or partially cooked vegetables such as peperoni (capsicums) which are dipped into a delicious warm sauce made from huge quantities of garlic (formerly soaked in milk), anchovies and olive oil.

In terms of the First course (primo piatto) soup could be minestrone, a mixed vegetable hotpot or minestra di legumi, a thick brew with pulses. In Valsesia they serve up warming traditional skilà, broth with cheese and rye bread, whereas the Canavese valleys offer soupa coüssot, a thick baked affair with soft bread, sausage and corgette. Straightforward pasta dishes such as pasta con ragù (meat sauce) or pomodoro (tomato) are widely available. In the valleys of the Maritime Alps keep an eye out for ear-shaped cruzet moistened with melted butter and sage. Agnolotti, bundles of home-made pasta bulging with a mix of minced meats often come in a drizzle of oily sauce from roast meat, whereas finely chopped noci (walnuts) may be used on ribbon tagliatelle. Traditional Occitan fare may mean raviolas de Blins, tiny dumplings from the Bellino valley, or sebos abausos, onions stuffed with rice, egg and minced meat.

Speciality sausages

Valle Tanaro (at the walk start) is known for polenta saracena, so-called for its main ingredient, tartary buckwheat, dubbed ‘Saracen’ in Italian for its dark colour, reminiscent of the long-ago invaders. Potato is blended with flour, and served with a sauce of milk, leeks and wild mushrooms. The Valle Varaita offers a simpler version known as polenta de trifolas e fromentin. More widespread is polenta concia, steaming yellow cornmeal smothered in either funghi (mushrooms), formaggio fuso (melted cheese) or spezzatino in umido, stewed meat. Game (selvaggina) is not unusual and menus offer capriolo (roe deer) or cervo (venison). A must for gourmet carnivores (not put off by the name) is fragrant brüscitt, minced beef simmered in red wine with cloves. Continuing with the second course (secondo piatto), you will occasionally be offered fresh trout (trota), especially in the Valsesia where fly-fishing is popular. Unconsumed fish are then fried and pickled in onion, herbs and vinegar, to produce flavoursome trota in carpione.

Piedmont cheeses deserve a guide all to themselves. In general, farm-made cheeses are called toma and produced from either latte di mucca/vacca (cows’ milk), pecora (sheep), capra (goat) or a combination. The smaller, more pungent, rounds are tomini, sprinkled liberally with chilli powder or aromatic herbs. One notable cheese from the Ligurian valleys is raschera, made from cows’ milk, usually in traditional square forms and originally flavoured with grape residue. Connoisseurs will also appreciate testun, whose ochre-coloured crust protects a well-seasoned sheep’s cheese. A sister to the mighty Gorgonzola is Murianengo, produced in the Susa valley. The Valle d’Aosta boasts a milder but full-fat creamy cheese known as fontina which comes in oversized 15–20kg rounds and is delicious melted in risotto or fonduta. The Canavese valleys produce curious brüs, a highly peppered cottage cheese, while Valsesia boasts fragrant delicate rounds of piodino made from cows’ milk as well as the unusual salugnun, a fresh cheese flavoured with pepper and cumin. Ricotta, a fresh soft cheese that is totally unsuitable for rucksack travel, demands consumption on the spot.

Desserts are topped by luscious bônet, vaguely reminiscent of crême caramel but flavoured with rum and amaretti, bitter almond cookies. Somewhat similar in taste are baked apricots topped with the same crushed biscuits plus chocolate. The ultimate for the sweet-toothed is to indulge in the renowned, unbelievably rich chocolates invented in Cuneo and appropriately called Cuneesi. These are treacherous masses of soft dark cocoa mass moulded around an unbelievably rich soft centre of rum-flavoured cream, the classical flavour al rhum, though they also come with hazelnut fillings. (The best come from elegant café Pasticceria Arione in the city’s main square.)

Cheeses maturing at Alpe Maccagno (Stage 41)

On the wine front, Piedmont is arguably Italy’s leading region for the production of memorable vintages, dominated by reds. While very drinkable house wines (vino della casa) are normally served, special occasions warrant splashing out for a bottle. Sturdy tannic Barbera, prestigious Barolo and Nebbiolo rank among the top reds, with Freisa and Grignolino not far behind. Another favourite is softer Dolcetto. In a class of its own is excellent Gattinara, which hails from the vicinity of Varallo. Little-known wines include Ormeasco, a light fresh young red from near the GTA start, while deep-coloured Carema from the lower Valle d’Aosta is gaining attention for its quality. There are fewer white wines, but noteworthies include Chardonnay and lightweight special Blanc de Morgex from the Valle d’Aosta region.

Strong liquors made with aromatic alpine herbs with digestive properties range from Genepy to Arquebuse (so-called in France as it was used to treat wounds inflicted by firearms!). A common Italian after-dinner spirit is fiery grappa, made from grape lees. Flavoured with everything from rue to violet and gentian root it also comes with uvetta, sultanas bloated from months of steeping in the highly alcoholic liquor.

If you’re part of a group a memorable – and warming – experience on a chilly day is to order a coppa dell’amicizia aka grolla. Hailing from the Valle d’Aosta (but believed to be of German origin with links to none other than the Holy Grail) it consists of an attractive hand-carved wooden bowl with numerous spouts. Participants take turns sipping the piping hot spicy blend of coffee and grappa. A highly recommended non-alcoholic alternative is heart-warming cioccolata calda, divinely rich thick hot chocolate that only the Italians seem capable of producing.

Mineral water (acqua minerale) is available but hardly necessary in a region so rich in natural springs –at eateries it is usual practice for a carafe of water (acqua dal rubinetto) to be brought to the table. Birra is available, and a refreshing version similar to shandy is panacea, a 50/50 mix of beer and lemonade. Otherwise there’s fruit juice (succo di frutta). Coffee comes as a tiny cup of strong black espresso, or topped with frothy hot milk as cappuccino, or in a long glass (or bowl at breakfast time) as caffè latte. Tè is usually served black with limone unless you specify con latte (with milk).

Vegetation

The early stages of the GTA are characterised by plants and flowers typical of the Mediterranean – the sea is a mere 40km to the south. Bushes of scented golden broom are abundant, as is divine French lavender, which grows as high as the 1500m mark. Pungent thyme, on the other hand, can be found along the entire trek. Its name derives from the Greek for ‘burn, sacrifice’, a reference to ancient funeral customs.

One group of aromatic – if rather nondescript – plants are the widespread wormwoods or artemisia, the scent of their clustered, woolly-looking flowers reminiscent of an anaesthetic. Varieties known as genipi are keenly sought after for their medicinal properties; an aromatic oil is extracted from the leaves, while flowered tips are left to steep in spirit for the renowned drink. Pickers need to have a permit, as over-enthusiastic gathering means it is now rare, and therefore protected. It can still be spotted growing in pockets in out-of-the-way valleys up to the 2000m mark. One rare type of wormwood used to be the essential ingredient in the yellowish-green aniseed-flavoured liqueur absinthe, which turned cloudy when water was added. Fashionable in the 1900s, it was banned once its toxicity was discovered; it was believed to cause hallucination and mental disorders! The popular French drink Pernod was manufactured in 1918 to act as a substitute. A similar flower, but with larger whitish or sandy-coloured heads, is a type of sneezewort of the Achillea family whose namesake – the Greek hero – was familiar with its therapeutic properties.

Another curiosity endemic to the Ligurian-Maritime Alps is the wild and moderately poisonous marmot plum, also known as Briançon apricot. The stone of its yellow fruit was crushed to produce an oil that was once used to extract the active ingredients from rhododendron galls, which in turn went into an ointment for treating rheumatism. The confusing name ‘marmot oil’ gave rise to the mistaken belief that the fat of the animals has anti-rheumatic properties, leading to senseless marmot hunting in the 19th century!

Only extremely lucky visitors to the Maritime Alps will have the opportunity to admire the endemic saxifraga florulenta, known grandly in English as the Ancient King. A cactus-like plant with a sizeable basal rosette, it produces an ostentatious pink-reddish 20cm high bloom just once in its lifetime, after 20–30 years, hence the Latin appellation ‘slow flowering’; it expires immediately afterwards.

Superb alpine flowers carpet the grassy slopes in midsummer. One of the earliest, the slender fringe-petalled alpine snowbell, can reasonably be expected in thawing snowfields. The heat released by the pale purple-bloomed plant as it breaks down carbohydrates actually melts the snow. Legend has it that the flower was a young girl who lived for spring and wasted away during winter.

Mountain cornflower

Gentians come in myriad varieties: blazing blue trumpets, tiny cerulean stars, tallish unwieldy plants bearing spotted yellow or wine-red flowers reminiscent of miniature tulips, and even a slender lilac type that flowers through autumn. Meadows shelter special treasures in the shape of elegant wine-red martagon lilies, and attractive purple and yellow orchids, if not the smaller exquisite insect types spotted by keen eyes only. Nearby may be alpine flax, whose attractive blue flower resembles the commoner periwinkle, and delicate pale yellow buckler mustard, its Latin name biscutella a reference to the double shield-like seed pods. Attractive pink spears of bistort grow in concentrations in sheltered depressions, while foxgloves come in a delicate pale lemon yellow hue. Alpine bartsia, a rather anonymous mint-like plant with downy leaves and dark purple tips, was dubbed the plant of grieving by the great Linnaeus, in memory of a young medical friend who lost his life in Surinam in 1738.

Rock soapwort

Type of houseleek

Moss campion grows in lovely round cushions of pointed bright green leaves dotted with tiny pink blooms, known by mountain-dwellers as ‘marmot bread’! It grows especially slowly, producing veritable miniature trees over a lifespan of 20–30 years. The dainty lacy-edged parsley fern (cryptogramma crispa from crypto, ‘hidden’), a type of rock-brake fern, can be found sheltering beneath stones at high altitudes. Low-lying hardy pink alpenrose, a type of rhododendron, often grows in association with woods of larch and bilberries.

Marshy zones are unfailingly interesting, with fluffy-topped cotton grass and bright marsh marigolds. A less apparent plant, with lilac-white blooms, is fascinating insect-devouring butterwort, its Latin name pinguicula a derivation of ‘greasy, fatty’ due to the viscosity of its leaves which double as insect traps. Victims are digested over two days, unwittingly supplying nitrogen and phosphorous for the host’s growth. In contrast dry sun-beaten hillsides are often home to succulents, chiefly the houseleek or sempervivum – a bit like a Triffid – along with a yellow variety of stonecrop.

Yellow foxgloves

Notable trees include the red-hued Arolla pine, an attractive conifer recognisable for its clusters of spiky needles. A slow developer, it can grow as tall as 25m and survive on exposed stony slopes up to 2500m, though often deformed by lightning strikes. On a smaller scale, but also at high altitudes, are miniature trees such as dwarf willow. Hailing from the Arctic regions, it forms resistant ground-hugging mats. It has been calculated that a 7mm trunk could be 40 years old, and one growth ring smaller than a tenth of a millimetre. Nature even beats the bonsai masters!

Of culinary interest is the plentiful wild fruit that rewards late summer walkers. Delicious sweet wild strawberries, raspberries and tiny round bilberries are the best known and easiest to identify. Take care not to consume lookalikes, which could be poisonous. Leave wild mushrooms to the Italian connoisseurs, as the vast range of multi-coloured funghi includes numerous deadly varieties.

Wildlife

Be warned that even in these high-tech times the mountains and valleys of Piedmont continue to be populated by mischievous spirits, fairies and even witches. The latter, known as masche, are renowned for playing harmless tricks on people as well as holding riotous dances, though the odd incident with kidnapped children has been recorded! Furthermore upper Valle Pellice, halfway through the GTA, is the haunt of the curious Daü. Somewhat hard of hearing due to its stubby ears, the mythical creature also has trouble keeping its balance because of its uneven limbs, and is likely to take a tumble down the mountainside if frightened by onlookers.

Somewhat easier to spot are shy chamois, mountain goats in amazing herds composed mostly of females with their young. They inhabit the vegetation band around the treeline, and if disturbed the dainty creatures take flight and dart up impossible rock faces with enviable ease. Sporting a fawn coat, they can be identified by their crochet-hook horns. Old males lead a solitary existence, wandering and ‘crying’, a sad, high-pitched sound. Chamois benefit from the protection afforded by a string of parks. There are 4500 alone in the Parco Naturale delle Alpi Maritime, while well over 7000 live in the Parco Nazionale Gran Paradiso.

Herd of Chamois