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INTRODUCTION

‘The land of the vendetta, the siesta, complicated political games, potent cheeses, wild pigs, chestnuts, succulent blackbirds and ageless old men who watch life go by’

R. Goscinny and A. Uderzo, Asterix in Corsica

Add to the above rugged mountain ranges, crystal-clear rivers, turquoise coves, romantic forests, the unforgettable scents of the maquis scrub, easygoing people, comfortable hostels and refuges, together with a host of well-marked paths, and you have, in a nutshell, an unparalleled paradise for walkers.

Its shores lapped by the Tyrrhenian and Ligurian seas, Corsica is the fourth largest island in the Mediterranean after Sicily, Sardinia and Cyprus. It has a surface area of 8682km² (3352 square miles), is 183km (113.7 miles) long and 83km (51.5 miles) wide, and is blessed with a stunning 1000km (621.3 mile) coastline. Moreover, some two-thirds of the land mass is taken up by an ancient mountain chain punctuated by a good 20 peaks well over 2000m (6500ft), while one-fifth is forested, and since 1972 a sizeable regional nature park has covered a vast 3500km² (1351 square mile) central swath of the island.

Corsica – or Corse in French – is administered by France, despite the fact that it is closer to Italy in both cultural and physical terms. A mere 90km (56 miles) separate it from the Tuscan coast, not to mention the narrow 11km (7 mile) strait with Sardinia, while it lies 170km (105 miles) from the Côte d’Azur in the south of France. The population of approximately 260,000 includes large numbers of mainlanders, along with a sizeable percentage of people of North African and Italian origin, drawn by work. In contrast it is said that due to unemployment more native Corsicans live in France than on the island itself.

Fanciful tales abound to explain the island’s name. Phoenicians, the first seafarers to arrive, apparently referred to it as Ker-Cic (‘slender promontory’). The Greeks came a little later and for them it was Kurnos (‘covered with forests’). Legendary Greco-Roman hero Heracles put in there after labouring to fetch the golden apples at the world’s end. He left one of his offspring, Kyrnos, in charge – hence the name. Perhaps the most colourful story comes courtesy of Roman mythology, wherein it belonged to a maiden called Corsa who had swum across from Liguria in pursuit of a runaway bull! Continuing the worldwide need for an explanation for events and naturally occurring phenomena, to this day island life is infused with incredible accounts of miracle-working native saints at odds with ghostly spirits and the gruesome acts of the devil.

View to Girolata and Capo Senino from Punta Literniccia (Mare e Monti)

Corsica’s very first inhabitants are believed to have migrated from north Italy around 7000bc. These hunters and gatherers developed into herders, and were joined by later arrivals responsible for the prehistoric menhirs and dolmens dotted through the hills. As is the fate of settled islands, vulnerable by their very nature, Corsica was raided periodically by Saracens and Barbary pirates, then occupied at length by the Pisans, who left some lovely Romanesque churches, and the Genoese, who stayed from the 13th century through to 1768, when they ceded it to France at a price, leaving a heritage of memorable citadels, watchtowers and bridges. In the meantime island-wide rebellions had produced an enlightened period of autonomy under Pasquale Paoli (1755–69), concluding curiously at the same time as the birth of Napoleon Bonaparte at Ajaccio. There were also limited stretches under English sovereignty, as well as occupation by the forces of Italy and Germany during the Second World War when soldiers all but outnumbered locals. The ongoing independence movement, fiery at times, has dropped off considerably of late. It won 24% of votes in 1992 but a mere 16% in 1999. A 1990 French statute gave the island limited autonomy, however a greater measure was narrowly rejected in a historic 2003 referendum. There continues to be occasional violence from Corsican separatists.

Corsica is catching up with the rest of France and Europe in leaps and bounds in terms of standard of living, though figures remain marginally lower in terms of income, schooling and employment. The lack of industrial development, a negative factor in the past, is now turning into an advantage as visitors are attracted to this unspoilt paradise. Tourism is rapidly becoming a major factor in the economy, alongside livestock and agriculture, with cork, tobacco, wine, citrus fruit and olive oil all being produced for export.

When to Go

Any time of year is suitable to walk the coastal routes, thanks to the typical Mediterranean climate (although in winter there are fewer hotels and hostels open). In midsummer, however, you’d need to start out very early and take a break during the heat of the day. July and August can be unbearably hot in lowland areas, although proximity to the coast is unfailingly accompanied by a cooling sea breeze. The spring period from March/April through to May can be simply divine, and will more than satisfy wild flower enthusiasts. This flowering period extends well into June for the mountainous interior. Once the winter snow has melted and paths are freed, the higher altitudes are at their photogenic best and provide a deliciously cool contrast to the heat elsewhere. July boasts the highest monthly average in terms of sunshine, with 11.9 hours per day! However, combined with August it also sees 70% of the tourist influx, so accommodation in popular spots must be pre-booked. On the other hand, these peak months do offer the advantage of more frequent public transport. One aspect of midsummer requires a warning note – walkers need to be aware of the unfortunately frequent danger of forest and scrub fires (see ‘Dos and Don’ts’ below).

Corte’s citadel (Mare-Mare Nord)

For the weather forecast (météo in French) call 08 92680220 or log onto www.meteo.fr and click on Corsica.

This ancient Corsican proverb may come in handy:

Arcu da sera, tempu si spera.

Arcu da mane, acqua à funtane

which translates roughly as ‘Rainbow in the evening, hope for good weather. Rainbow in the morning, fountains of water’ (rain!).

Getting to Corsica

Air

Most flights to Corsica entail a stopover in France before flying into either Bastia or Ajaccio. Some charter companies also fly into Figari near Bonifacio in the south, or Calvi on the west coast (perfect for the start of the Mare e Monti trail).

Sea

Ferries ranging from gigantic container-like vessels through to sleek, fast catamarans link the French mainland ports of Marseille and Nice all year round with Bastia and Ajaccio. These are supplemented by summer services to resort towns l’Île Rousse and Propriano on the west coast, along with Porto-Vecchio in the east. The majority carry vehicles as well as passengers. From Italy the main ports of departure are Genoa and Livorno, with ferries bound for Bastia and Porto-Vecchio. The main shipping lines are Corsica Ferries (www.corsicaferries.com), the Societé Nationale Corse–Méditerranée (www.sncm.fr) and Moby Lines (www.mobylines.it). Advance booking for vehicles is essential in summer.

Local Transport

Corsica is fairly easy to get around by public transport if you’re not in a great hurry and don’t mind the odd delay. A long list of private companies run mini-buses and long-distance coaches (referred to as autocars or simply cars) all over the island. Tourist offices in key tourist centres such as Bastia and Ajaccio distribute exhaustive sheets summarising all the lines relevant to their region. In minor towns the companies are usually based at travel agencies, where destinations and departure times will hopefully be on display. Otherwise try the local café – people are invariably helpful. Fares tend to be pretty steep and tickets are generally sold on board. Punctuality is another story, so don’t plan a tight schedule if you have a plane or ferry to catch. The helpful website www.corsicabus.org has many bus routes and timetables.

Hitch-hiking is a piece of cake; depending on traffic flow, you rarely have to wait long for a lift from benevolent tourists or locals, particularly if you look like a hiker and are carrying a rucksack. However, as is the rule the world over, it is inadvisable for women to hitchhike on their own.

Most villages have a taxi service, but drivers seem to require lengthy advance warning and do not come cheap.

The following glossary will help in deciphering timetables:

quotidien, tous les jours	daily
sauf	except
seulement	only
jours fériés	Sunday and public holidays
lundi	Monday
mardi	Tuesday
mercredi	Wednesday
jeudi	Thursday
vendredi	Friday
samedi	Saturday
dimanche	Sunday

Train

The Chemins de Fer de la Corse, alias U Trinighellu or the micheline, is a marvellous narrow-gauge railway line that runs through the mountainous centre of Corsica connecting Bastia and Ajaccio with a branch line to Calvi on the west coast. It originally extended down the eastern seaboard to Porto-Vecchio, but the track was damaged by bombing in the Second World War and unfortunately never rebuilt. The train is handy for walkers heading for Calvi and the Mare e Monti trail, and is the perfect leisurely means of transport to reach Corte, strategically located for many mountain routes. A must for train buffs and others alike, it makes for a memorable rattling trip and is irreverently referred to as the island’s TGV – Train Grande Vibration! Pocket timetables are widely available, otherwise call 0800 000080 or visit www.ter-sncf.com. Remember that this service is not renowned for its punctuality either.

The most thrilling stretch of track negotiates the narrow valley between the stations of Corte and Vizzavona, with a spectacular succession of viaducts, switchbacks and tunnels, looping back on itself for the climb to the 1000m mark. Renowned French civil engineer Gustave Eiffel was responsible for the 1888 design of the noteworthy steel girder bridge in the proximity of Vivario station.

Car

Car rental agencies are plentiful in the main towns and ports, though of course you can bring your own car on the spacious ferries (with the appropriate paperwork and insurance). The French road identification system uses the letter N for the more important nationale routes and D for relatively minor départmentale roads, plus a distinguishing number. There are few straight routes on the island, so getting from A to B will take longer than you’d think. Visitors will find they spend a lot of time on twisting narrow roads, not often equipped with a guard rail and frankly hair-raising at times. Don’t hesitate to sound your horn at blind corners in the interests of safety. The locals tend to ignore bends in the road so their vehicles often need dodging too. A further potential hazard for drivers is posed by wandering livestock, who deposit skid traps on the tarmac for unwary motorists.

Walking

This guide is intended to give a taste of the paradise Corsica offers walkers with its wonderful network of pathways. Three time-tested long-distance routes are described in detail, as is a selection of shorter walks designed as day-trips. However, it will quickly become clear to enterprising visitors that anyone suitably equipped and armed with a good measure of common sense, together with the appropriate detailed map, can ‘do their own thing’ and explore the multitudinous well-marked paths independently.

Walking in Corsica covers a vast range of the terrain – rough stony mountainsides and exposed airy ridges, slippery rock slabs, easy earth-based paths in wood and grassy pasture, sandy beaches and multitudinous river crossings – fords more often than not. A bit of everything!

How to Use this Guide

Most paths have clear waymarking, though numbering is rare. This is generally a regular succession of painted stripes on trees or prominent rocks, occasionally accompanied by an arrow and name of a landmark ahead. During the walk descriptions in this guide, ‘track’ is used to refer to an unsealed vehicle-width lane, while a ‘path’ is narrow and for pedestrians only. A ‘road’ is sealed, and traffic can be expected.

The individual route descriptions include the altitude (metres above sea level) of useful landmarks along the way (altitude is abbreviated as ‘m’ and given in brackets; minutes is abbreviated as ‘min’). Compass directions as well as directional instructions ‘right’ and ‘left’ are supplied as an extra aid.

Hanging bridge between Marignana and Evisa (Mare e Monti/Mare-Mare Nord)

At Bocca Rezza (Mare e Monti)

The timing given at the start of each walk does not include rest breaks or time out for taking photographs, so always add extra when planning your day’s load. On level ground an averagely fit person will cover 5km (about 3 miles) in 1 hour. Timing given during the walk description is partial (ie. from the last reference point), unless otherwise specified. Some walkers may wish to combine some of the day stages in the long-distance walks in line with their fitness and availability of accommodation.

An entry for height gain and loss (ascent/descent) can be found in each walk heading (except where the ground is mostly flat) and is an important indicator of the type of itinerary. Combined with the distance covered, it furnishes an idea of the effort required. Generally speaking, 300m (about 1000ft) in ascent is feasible in 1 hour. For the long-distance routes, these details can be found under the individual day headings along with the distance. Moreover, for anyone who finds it more convenient to follow them in the reverse direction, estimated times have been included in the ‘Route Summaries’ at the end of the guide, together with information about transport, accommodation and shops.

Place names will be encountered in varieties of French–Corsican– Italian, and disparities are regularly encountered between maps and actual signposts. Small villages and hamlets are important landmarks especially on the long-distance trails, however few have identifying signposts and there isn’t often anyone to ask. One unfailingly reliable system for finding out where you are is to locate the cenotaph, as each village sent its sons to the conflicts France was engaged in, and the village name appears there.

Several stretches of the long-distance walks described in this guide have been adapted as day-walks with a return to base, and are described separately. However visitors with two cars at their disposal can follow virtually any stretch of the long-distance routes with a little advance planning. More ambitious, experienced walkers may want to undertake the renowned long-distance route the Grande Randonnée GR20, which traverses the island from Calenzana in the northwest to Conca in the southeast in 15 stages. It entails countless scrambles as the route climbs amidst top mountain scenery, but the ‘downside’ is that walkers need to be experienced as well as largely self-sufficient in terms of water, food and sleeping gear. Paddy Dillon’s detailed guide GR20 Corsica – The High-Level Route is available from Cicerone.

In addition to the selection of walks described in this guide, interesting suggestions can be found in the brochures ‘Balades en Corse – Sentiers du Pays’, put out by the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse and available at local tourist offices. However they give no route details and a map is essential. Many routes are signposted at the very start then you are quickly left to your own devices.

Difficulty

A scale of 1 to 3 has been used to grade the walks in terms of difficulty.

Grade 1 indicates fairly easy going on mostly level ground, a broad track or clear path. Unless otherwise specified, it is suitable for all age groups and abilities.

Grade 2 is average, involving a fair amount of height gain and loss: basic orienteering skills may be required.

Grade 3 is challenging and is intended for seasoned walkers with stamina. Some experience on rocky terrain and exposure is recommended, along with orientation and map-reading skills.

Dos and Don’ts

Walking boots should be neither too new (blisters!) or too old (insufficient grip on stony terrain).

Don’t overload your rucksack, as a sore back can spoil your holiday. An excessive load can also put you off balance on exposed ridges or during steep descents. Be honest – are you really going to have the time or energy to read that novel? Are those extra clothes really essential? (Corsica is a relaxed holiday destination and the need for ‘dressing up’ is rare.) It’s enlightening to weigh your pack before setting out on long-distance routes – if it exceeds 10kg, think again.

Take both weather forecasts and fire warnings seriously and be prepared to modify your walk route if needs be. In the unfortunate event that you experience one of the island’s infamous violent summer storms, complete with unbelievably torrential rain and potentially dangerous lightning, keep well away from prominent trees, rock overhangs, caves and metal fixtures (get rid of your trekking poles), and curl up on the ground keeping your head down. If on the other hand you are caught out by fire, take cover if possible in a watercourse, or on a high point where rescuers can spot you easily. If you notice a fire burning alert the authorities by phoning 18 (the pompiers, fire brigade) or 112 (general emergency number). Remember that lighting a fire out in the open is strictly forbidden from July through to September, though a total fire ban may be in force for a longer period.

Take care when fording rivers after heavy rain. Even the most sluggish watercourse can swell in a surprisingly short time and produce an impetuous flow. A stick or trekking pole will aid balance.

When crossing suspension bridges, one person at a time is the best rule, and the same goes for aided rock passages with fixed chain.

Don’t plan your walk in too rigid a manner, as it will limit your flexibility. Allow for rest days and breaks for detours to places of interest instead of rushing straight through.

Carry plenty of drinking water at all times of year. When settlements are touched on, you’ll nearly always get a refill, as true to farming tradition it’s a very rare village that has no public drinking fountain or tap. Natural watercourses abound; however, so does grazing livestock, so drinking from streams is not always advisable.

Never proceed too far without checking for waymarking, as lack thereof may mean a wrong turn onto one of the many hunter’s or boar trails. The long-distance routes are especially well marked with orange paint stripes.

Be considerate when making a toilet stop. Keep away from watercourses and never leave unsightly paper or tissues lying around. Derelict buildings or rock overhangs are also out – remember that they could serve as emergency shelter for someone!

Residents in the EU should take with them the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaces the E111 and entitles the holder to reciprocal health treatment in France. A ‘Health Advice for Travellers’ leaflet is available at post offices in the UK. Travel insurance covering a walking holiday is also recommended, and is essential for non-Europeans.

Last but not at all least behave as a responsible walker and leave nothing behind you except footprints.

Walking boots take a bashing in Corsica

In case of danger

Call the general emergency number 112. The French for ‘help!’ is ‘au secours!’

What to Take

sturdy walking boots with ankle support and non-slip soles

a comfortable rucksack and a supply of plastic bags to keep everything dry

T-shirts and shorts

pullover and windproof jacket

long trousers to protect your legs from the scratchy maquis shrubs

waterproofs – either a voluminous poncho or separate jacket, over-trousers and rucksack cover. A lightweight fold-up umbrella will be appreciated by walkers who wear glasses

sandals or flip-flops for beaches, dormitory wear and fording rivers

sleeping sheet and towel

sun-block cream, lip salve and a wide-brimmed hat

trekking poles, preferably telescopic, handy for discouraging the odd over-enthusiastic dog, balancing on stepping stones during river crossings and hanging out your washing, not to mention diverting your rucksack load onto your arms

first-aid kit, including antiseptic cream to treat grazes from brambles and maquis, and the odd nettle sting

salt tablets to combat excessive sweating and fatigue

a compass and even an altimeter, combined with the appropriate walking map, are a great help should you inadvertently stray off the track

swimming costume and goggles or mask

Cucuruzzu affords lovely views over the Alta Rocca area (Walk 15)

Maps

A detailed contour map is an essential aid to any walk undertaken in Corsica. The sketch maps provided in this guide are limited by space and graphics and are not intended as substitutes. Excellent maps published by the France’s Institute Géographique National (IGN) are referred to in the heading of each walk described in this book. The blue Top 25 1:25,000 series are on sale all over Corsica in newsagents and even supermarkets, not to mention outdoor and map shops overseas. An orange 1:50,000 series has also been published, handy for the long-distance routes, however they are inexplicably unavailable on the island and can only be purchased at official IGN outlets in France, through specialist distributors in other countries or online at www.ign.fr. At a stretch the green IGN 1:100,000 series could accompany a long-distance route and be used for identifying distant ranges and landmarks including villages, though they won’t be much help if you get lost.

Accommodation

Price list at a gîte d’étape

The wonderful French invention the gîte d’étape, walkers’ hostel, is widespread in Corsica. Unfailingly great places to meet people, they provide a shower and multi-course evening meal at the end of a day’s trekking. The gîtes offer good basic accommodation – usually 4–6 bed dormitories with comfortable bunk beds – along with shared bathroom facilities. Guests take meals together, often at long trestle tables which make for a great atmosphere. Servings are unfailingly generous and some establishments even include wine at no extra charge. Prices start at around €15 for bed only, up to the €28–32 range for demi pension or half board, which means accommodation plus a full dinner then continental breakfast. This is generally a bowl of café au lait, thé or chocolat (milky coffee, tea or hot chocolate), served with pain, beurre and confiture (bread, butter and jam).

Refuge de Ciottulu i Mori (Walk 8)

In addition, unless otherwise indicated in walk descriptions, all of the gîtes d’étape listed have self-cooking facilities (coin cuisine), for which a small fee applies. A panier-repas, or packed picnic lunch, is another possibility if you ask ahead.

The only drawback occasionally encountered at the gîtes d’étape is late opening in the morning. Should you require petit-déjeuner (breakfast) before the official time, don’t hesitate to ask, as some helpful places will lay out the food beforehand and leave you to make your own hot drink. In any case it’s always good practice to settle your bill in the evening to save precious time the day after.

You’ll need a sleeping sheet (though they can occasionally be rented) and your own towel – hot showers are always available. Book at least one day ahead (phone numbers are given in each walk description), more at peak holiday time. Most places are family-run affairs and they need due warning in order to be able to plan meals. A smattering of French will go a long way, especially when booking accommodation on the phone. (Italian won’t go amiss either, as it is similar to the Corsican language itself.) Don’t arrive too early as doors may not be opened until around 4pm. Some gîtes even offer to transport rucksacks for groups to villages ahead at a modest price.

Carry plentiful cash (euros) with you on the long-distance routes as the gîtes normally do not accept credit cards (not that they are widely accepted in the island’s hotels or restaurants, for that matter). Eurocheques are not smiled upon either as they entail a hefty surcharge. ATMs are plentiful in tourist towns, mostly on the coast, but are rare as hen’s teeth in the inland villages – as are banks. Be warned!

Before you set out it’s also a good idea to purchase a prepaid phone card as the public telephones no longer accept coins. Most villages have a public phone, though a shop selling cards may be harder to find.

Modest hotels abound in tourist spots and have been listed where relevant to walks. After many nights in the communal hostels you may feel the need to treat yourself to some luxury.

Dotted along the high mountain paths are also refuge huts run by the PNRC, Corsica’s Park Authority. They are open year-round, but manned only from June to October, when there is radio contact for emergencies. They charge a fee for dormitory-style accommodation, shared cooking (fully equipped kitchen) and washing facilities (WC and solar-heated shower), and wood-fuelled heating, but provide no meals or bedding. Basic food supplies are sometimes on sale. Refuges operate on a first-in first-served basis. Several are touched on during the itineraries in this guide and details given.

If you don’t mind the extra weight, a tent and sleeping bag can spell a really cheap holiday. Wild camping is not permitted along any of the long-distance routes or in the realms of the National Park, but for a modest fee you can pitch in the immediate vicinity of both the gîtes d’étape and refuges, and have full use of the facilities. Corsica also has a multitude of camping grounds dotted around the island. Contact the local tourist offices listed for details.

Food and Drink

The island’s cooking is basically French in the main tourist centres, but has retained its local flavour in the mountain villages and out-of-the-way places. On the coast you’ll hopefully be offered the taste sensation soupe de poisson (fish soup), a delicate smooth seafood mixture served with croutons which are to be rubbed with fresh garlic and floated with a mayonnaise-mustard sauce, topped with grated cheese. Civet de sanglier or boar stew needs to be tasted at least once. The island’s unusual cheeses are many and varied. Invariably tangy, either the richer ewe’s milk brebis, smothered in dried maquis herbs, or the drier fromage de chèvre (goat) are must-try experiences. They may be served with fig conserve and even walnuts to cut the saltiness. Another cheese variety is soft white brocciu, flavoured with wild mint, which is melted in pastries or cannelloni.

The islanders have made some commendable adaptations to French paté, with the well-sung paté de merle traditionally made with blackbirds – though supposedly outlawed nowadays. In the charcuterie range, figatellu or pork liver sausage should be on your list too.

Most villages have drinking fountains

Vegetarians will have a little trouble, as the majority of Corsican dishes are meat-based. However, try asking ‘Est-ce qu’il ya quelque chose sans viande?’ (‘is there anything without meat?’) or tell them ‘Je suis végétarien’ (végétarienne if female). Crudités will get you a plate of fresh vegetables; otherwise omelettes are regular fare. Corsican soupe is another good bet, invariably a hearty garlic-laden bean and vegetable number.

Sweet-toothers will enjoy the delicate dry canistrelli biscuits with aniseed. Many desserts incorporate châtaignes or chestnuts, the flour used effectively in concocting luscious crèmes. One unusual speciality is confiture d’arbousier, jam made from the fruit of the strawberry tree, which grows abundantly in the island’s maquis.

Tap water all over the island can be drunk safely (potable), unless you feel the urge to fork out for eau minérale. Some great beer is brewed on Corsica these days, otherwise there is no shortage of French brands. Wine on the other hand is either imported from the mainland or hails from the modest but interesting coastal vineyards. Wine growing was launched in the 1960s with the arrival of skilled labourers from Algeria, which had just won its independence from France. ‘Appellation Contrôlée’ is a guarantee of quality.

Food supply points for walkers on the long-distance routes are listed in the appropriate place in the route descriptions and shown on the summaries at the end of the book. Sometimes the gîte d’étape sells basics, however it’s always a good idea to have durable reserves say of crackers, cheese and sweet biscuits to carry you over in case the awaited shops are closed. Many out-of-the-way villages without grocery stores are served by enterprising travelling bakers and greengrocers who announce their arrival in the main square with plenty of horn blowing. While they are unpredictable, they do mean a great opportunity to stock up on fresh fruit and bread, not to mention unfailingly luscious pastries.

Contacts

The Tourist Offices (Office de Tourisme or Syndicat d’Initiative) in the principal towns are:

Ajaccio 04 95515303

Bastia 04 95559696

Bonifacio 04 95731188

Calvi 04 95651667

Corte 04 95462670

Porto 04 95261055

Porto-Vecchio 04 95700958

Propriano 04 95760149.

Other useful offices are listed under individual walks, distinguished by the symbol .

The international dialling code for France is 33, and is needed for calls from overseas.

The Parc Naturel Régional de Corse can be contacted at

2, Rue Casalonga

20000 Ajaccio

Corse

France

04 95517910

e-mail: infos@parc-naturel-corse.com

Its information-packed French-language web site is www.parc-naturel-corse.com.

Plant Life

Habitats on Corsica range from wind- and wave-lashed rocky coasts through to sun-baked plains, dense woodland and up to inhospitable snowbound mountain ranges, all home to well-adapted Mediterranean vegetation with everything from salt-resistant poppies to high-altitude crocus. But the majority of visitors to the island are struck by two things in particular: the pungent maquis and the noble Corsican pines.

Clump of broom in rock cranny

The ever-present scrub cover (maquis) spells subtle background scents that blend rosemary with endemic thyme, fennel, myrtle and much else besides. It leaves a lasting impression on all visitors, literary and non-literary figures alike. For Paul Theroux (1995) ‘It smells like a barrel of potpourri, it is like holding a bar of expensive soap to your nose, it is Corsica’s own Vap-o-Rub. The Corsican maquis is strong enough to clear your lungs and cure your cold.’ Guy de Maupassant (1881) noted that it made the air heavy, while for Dorothy Carrington, steaming towards the island for the very first time, ‘This is the scent of all Corsica: bitter-sweet, akin to incense, heady, almost, as an anaesthetic after rain… it is a perpetual and potent enchantment’.

The hardy, woody maquis shrubs that thrive on sun-baked earth have hidden generations of bandits, and there is even a historical record of Roman soldiers hopelessly losing their way. Predominant is the cistus or rock rose, a straggly bush with small leathery leaves and surprising papery blooms in pastel colours of mauve, pink and white. A curious parasite plant, Cytinus hypocistis, often grows at its base, its attractive yellow–red sheath resembling a mushroom. Another maquis standard is the strawberry tree, a type of arbutus. This evergreen is easily identified by its ball-like fruit reminiscent of strawberries in appearance, though not exactly in taste, and glossy leaves that resemble laurel. A member of the heather family, it is known in Corsica as a symbol of loyalty: according to legend the shrub hid Christ when fleeing from his enemies. However, the traitorous heather did not hesitate to give him away and he was captured. The charitable strawberry tree was blessed with fruit, while the heather was condemned to flower without ever producing fruit. Its woody stem, however, is prized for pipe-making.

Other notables are the widespread shady evergreen holm oak, with tiny glossy leaves and small acorns, as well as the dark-green-leaved lentisc with clusters of red berries. The bright myrtle shrub has delicate blooms like hawthorn, and its wood is still used for basketmaking.

Pretty rock roses

Cytinus hypocistis, parasite on rock rose shrub

At a similar low–medium altitude vegetation band are native Mediterranean cork oaks. Still important to the island’s economy, they are a common sight half stripped of their bark, leaving the bare trunk blushing bright red in its exposed state. The tough covering is non-flammable, a natural protection from summer bush fires.

Another curiosity is the Indian bead tree, planted in villages. It features lilac blossoms and orange woody ball fruits, which gave it its name.

One landmark tree for Corsica is the chestnut. Under Genoese domination in the mid-16th century they became the island’s mainstay. Later, a grand total of 35,000 hectares under cultivation was recorded in the 1800s, though it was destined to decline with the first blight in the early 1900s. A mere 4000 hectares are productive nowadays. The nuts were dried slowly in the typical double-floored séchoir huts over a fire burning day and night. They were later milled for flour.

Many of Corsica’s mountains have their lower 800–1800m zones cloaked in magnificent forests of endemic Corsica or laricio pine modelled into weird sculptures by wind action on exposed passes. Reaching up to a maximum of 40m in height they account for a good 50,000 hectares, including the Aïtone, Vizzavona and Bavella forests, and were highly prized by the Romans as masts for their galleys. Easily confused with the maritime variety, the Corsican pine has short rounded cones and dark bark with sizeable rough patches. The maritime, in contrast, features deeply fissured bark, often crimson, while its cones are large and pointed.

In terms of flowers, April is the best time for a visit on the coastal belt, though this will be postponed if the spring rain is late in coming.

Down at sea level many beaches are scattered with curious soft spongy brown balls, remnants of a flowering seaweed Posidonia oceanica (‘king of the sea’). As they detach from the plant and die, the broad fronds are broken up by the waves, which then roll them up and wash them onto the coast. They are quite effective for removing tar stains, an unlikely predicament. Other seaside habitués include the showy yellow horned poppy, with blue-grey leaves, and the widespread crimson Hottentot fig, a native of South Africa as the name suggests.

Old chestnut trees reach remarkable dimensions

Not far away is the inland habitat of highly perfumed French lavender, its tasselled head distinguishing it from the better-known variety cultivated commercially. The divine scent of an astonishing variety of yellow broom is another constant on Corsica. More perfume comes from sweet honeysuckle draped over walls and other shrubs. It comes in a deep red version as well as the more common creamy gold. An eye-catcher on otherwise bare rock surfaces is vivid purple and pink stonecrop.

Prickly pear cactus or the Barbary fig keeps a low profile, producing bright papery flowers in spring, followed by edible fruit for anyone patient enough to peel off the insidious spiky needles. Christopher Columbus is believed to have introduced it to the Mediterranean from South America. In the past the leaves were applied to wounds to stop bleeding. Giant fennel or ferula is a common sight towering over arid hillsides. Its tall dried stalks were once crafted into modest furniture and walking sticks, as well as serving as reliable, slow-burning torches. A sure sign of exhausted over-grazed terrain is the presence of the asphodel, tall lily-like plant with white flowers. The Greeks called it the ‘flower of death’, but in Corsica it was known as the ‘poor people’s bread’, as the bulb, rich in starch, was eaten widely until the introduction of the potato in the late 1700s. The dried plant is still used in rituals, and is widely held to be a powerful protector as well as an effective cure for warts.

Higher up, wet zones around mountain streams often feature pretty lilac butterwort, their sticky leaves ready to trap insects. There’s also the odd orchid, mainly the modest serapias, better known as the tongue orchid, rather nondescript burgundy-cream with pointy elongated petals. A more striking orchid look-alike is the violet-green thick-stemmed limodore. Other notable wood-dwellers include pretty crimson-purple cyclamens and the endemic toxic Corsican hellebore, with attractive drooping lime green flowers. Its broad leaves were used by shepherds to keep their cheeses fresh, while the roots produced a valuable disinfectant for livestock.

Lastly, two glorious showy flowers found in mountainous zones: a striking white lily similar to amaryllis and sea daffodil, the Pancratium illyricum, is endemic to both Corsica and Sardinia and is commonly encountered. Much rarer in the springtime are the bright pink peonies that grow wild on the edge of forests.

Flowers of the Mediterranean by Oleg Polunin and Anthony Huxley (Chatto & Windus, 1987) makes a valuable and enjoyable companion.

Wildlife

Thick woodland and impenetrable maquis do not facilitate observation of wild animals in Corsica, nor does the widespread hunting! Quiet walkers in the mountainous regions can hope for at least a glimpse of the ‘king of the island’, the stocky goat-like mouflon recognisable by its showy curling horns. With a history stretching back 8000 years, this native of Corsica and neighbouring Sardinia has reportedly become shy in the extreme in the face of species-threatening poaching. Protected herds of several hundred mouflon survive in reserves in the Asco and Bavella areas and small groups have been reported in the seafront Scandola promontory.

Foraging pigs

Much more successful is the introduced well-adapted boar (sanglier), their numbers around the 30,000 mark. Along with pigs normally left free by their owners, they roam medium-altitude woodland in search of edible roots, leaving a trail of devastation in their wake. Not even the avid hunters seem able to dent the population. Again these are timid creatures, and the closest most visitors ever get to an actual boar is a hide left by hunters to dry on a fence. Both boar and pig are part and parcel of Corsican life – and cooking. In the legendary past they even organised a revolution, led by the talking specimen Porcafonu from Calenzana, who conducted discussions with the Almighty for more humane treatment for the hoofers.

Another ‘success’ story concerns small red deer. After they were shot to extinction in the 1960s, park authorities combined forces with hunters’ groups to reintroduce eight deer from Sardinia in 1985. This number rose to 103 in a mere three years, and they have since been released to fend for themselves near Quenza in the Bavella region.

In terms of reptiles Corsica does not have any life-endangering snakes, vipers being totally absent. On the other hand walkers have a good chance of encountering harmless green-grey and black snakes which will not hesitate to hiss fiercely, a strategy to give them time to slither away to safety. Other notables on the ground are the ubiquitous darting lizards.

Last but not least, the enterprising dung beetles are entitled to a mention. Key creatures on an island where livestock is an essential part of the economy, they are encountered on pathways in bands industriously dispatching cow pats, often engaged in clown-like bickering.

The best news relates to birdlife. Magnificent birds of prey such as splendid rust-red kites with marked forked tails can be seen gliding in couples surveying open mountainsides for small animals. The woods are alive with myriad finches, woodpeckers and the dainty tree creeper spiralling its way up tree trunks in search of burrowing insects to feed its offspring concealed in a crack in the bark. The curious hoopoe swoops and dips over light shrub emitting its characteristic ‘hoo hoo’ call (hence the name), its distinctive black–white wings contrasting with its warm orange-nut-coloured body.

Eight couples of lammergeier (bearded vulture) are known to breed on Corsica in high spots such as the Bavella massif. Known locally as the Altore (‘dweller of high places’), the imposing bird has a wing span up to 2.7m. It lives on carrion and is famous for its original practice of dropping bones from a great height to crack them on rocks. Despite local hearsay and shepherd’s tales, it does not prey on lambs, in contrast to the golden eagle, only a little smaller in size. Thirty couples of eagles thrive along the central mountain chain as well as the easternmost Castagniccia. The eagle has a wedge-shaped tail whereas the lammergeier can be distinguished by its more slender elongated tail.

Acrobatic swifts and martins swooping and screeching overhead are a distinctive sight in the mountainous villages during the warm summer months. As the typical stone houses have unusually narrow eaves with no overhang suitable for nests, the birds often make do with cracks in the masonry walls.