Читать книгу Walking in Italy's Stelvio National Park - Gillian Price - Страница 11

INTRODUCTION

The mountainous Stelvio National Park, established in 1935, lies due west of the Dolomites in northeast Italy. The most extensive Italian alpine park, it sprawls for 1300 square kilometres across the heart of the Central Alps, embracing a wilderness of rugged glaciated summits and ridges and culminating in the massive 3905m Ortler. In between run beautiful verdant valleys cloaked with dense forests, home to both traditional village settlements and welcoming well-equipped resorts. Visitors can choose from dozens of exciting walks, each with the guarantee of breathtaking landscapes, wildflowers and wildlife day after day after day.

This guide gives a selection of routes from each of the major valleys, presenting walks across the full range of difficulties and from a couple of hours to a full day in length. Also included are spectacular non-glacier summits that are accessible to walkers who want to go that bit further (Walks 11, 19, 23, 25, 32 and 37).

Vast panoramas towards the Forni glacier and Pizzo Tresero can be enjoyed (Walk 21)

Geography

The alpine landscape in the Stelvio National Park has been shaped by the massive glaciers which covered the area as long as 7000 years ago. In winter they are fed by snow, which compresses into ice, the accumulated weight dragging the glaciers downhill. When the rate of summer melting exceeds that of maintaining the status quo, the ice mass reduces in volume and retreats to higher ground where temperatures are lower, often leaving behind a typical U-shaped trough. Moreover, clumps of roches moutonnées are commonly found on vast rock surfaces that have been left exposed, smoothed by the passage of ice and grooved by stones trapped underneath the glacier and dragged along.

Other rock debris plucked off mountain flanks ends up on top of the slowly moving body of ice. Over time it rattles off to the sides in elongated rows known as moraine. When the glacier withdraws, these remain in place and are colonised by pioneer plants such as mountain avens, which consolidate the terrain, leading the way for cushion vegetation then shrubs.

As is happening across the whole of the Alps, the Stelvio’s glaciers are shrinking rapidly and over the last 50 years 40% of the total surface area – equivalent to 20 sq km – has been lost (21% alone over the period 1991–2003).

History

Before World War I, east of Switzerland the border between Italy and the Austro-Hungarian Empire extended as far south as Lake Garda and Trento. In 1915, after signing a secret treaty with the Triple Entente of the UK, France and Russia, Italy entered WWI, declaring war on its former ally and neighbour and opening a new, urgently needed front. The fledgling Kingdom (which came into existence in 1860) had been promised the extension of its border north to the Brenner Pass as well as Istria. Troops were sent to dig in along the northeastern Italian Alps, high-altitude mountains beset with glaciers and snowed in for five months of the year. Vast labyrinths of ice tunnels spelled protection – along with disconcerting creaking as the glacier moved and sub-zero temperatures prevailed. As things turned out, there was relatively little action; however, the harsh conditions and avalanches caused shocking loss of life. When the war ended with the 1918 Treaty of Versailles the Südtirol (South Tyrol) became Italy’s Alto Adige.

Italian WWI observatory on the Filone dei Möt ridge (Walk 25)

Many of the old mule tracks and military supply roads form the basis for today’s walking routes. In this guidebook Walks 11–14, 19, 20, 23–26 and 29 follow such routes or visit WWI sites, poignant places that testify to the folly of man. Nowadays the magnificent landscapes can be enjoyed in the peace of a united Europe.

Nomenclature

The Stelvio National Park stretches over the Italian regions of Südtirol, Trentino and Lombardia. In the first, the German language is dominant (spoken by 80% of the inhabitants) and although all the place names were translated into Italian after 1918, in this guide the original German names have been given preference, as they are generally more meaningful in situ (the Italian version is provided when mentioned the first time). Although all road and place signs are bilingual, it can be a bit confusing: for instance, the famous road pass known as Stilfser Joch (or Stilfserjoch) in German is the Passo dello Stelvio for the Italians. Refuges changed hands postwar, spawning a gallery of double names such as Düsseldorferhütte–Rifugio Serristori.

Plants and flowers

Thanks to the variety of terrains and habitats it encompasses – from low-lying meadows through woods and scrub to high-altitude rock and icescapes – the Stelvio offers an incredible range of alpine plant life and some interesting examples of adaptation to harsh environments.

The vast forests cloaking mid-altitude slopes are mostly conifer, dominated by the Arolla pine. This relies on the industrious nutcracker for its survival, as the voracious – and forgetful – bird hoards kernels in secluded rock crannies where the trees sprout and grow. Another coniferous tree seen throughout the park is the larch, which has lacy fronds; it is the only conifer to lose its needles in autumn. Its common companions are bushes of miniature rhododendrons or alpenrose with pink blooms, a delight in July. Scree slopes, on the other hand, are colonised by the hardy dwarf mountain pine, with springy branches that trap the snow.

1) Autumn gentian; 2) Gorgeous tiny gentians; 3) Leopard’s bane

Seemingly barren rock surfaces host myriad coloured lichen, which prepare the surface for hardy cushion plants such as the efficient ‘rock breaker’ saxifrage, with penetrating roots and tiny delicate blooms. Among the first flowers to appear on the edge of the snow line is the dainty fringed blue-violet alpine snowbell. The heat it releases as it breaks down carbohydrates actually melts the snow. Another early bloom is the perfumed sticky primrose, with petite clusters of deep purple. A lover of siliceous scree, the white or rarer pink glacier crowfoot grows close to glaciers, hence its name. The leaf cells contain a rich fluid that acts as an antifreeze.

Elsewhere, stony grasslands with calcareous soil (from limestone or dolomite) are ideal for delicate, sweet-scented yellow Rhaetian poppies. Often found growing nearby are white star-shaped edelweiss, their leaves equipped with fine felt-like hairs which trap heat. Rocky terrain is also the home of the gentian, which comes as a gorgeous blue trumpet or tiny iridescent stars; there is also a showy yellow-spotted type and delicate mauve varieties in autumn. Eye-catching alpine moon daisies are a common sight on rock-strewn slopes, which they share with clumps of golden leopard’s bane and spidery creeping avens. Common alongside marshy lakes is fluffy white cotton grass, while purple or white insectivorous butterwort is found in damp places, often near streams. Pasture slopes and alpine meadows straight out of The Sound of Music are dotted with exquisite wine-red martagon lilies, delicate columbines and the tiny triangular-headed black vanilla orchids, which smell of cocoa. Flower picking is of course strictly forbidden.

A valuable aid to identification is Alpine Flowers of Britain and Europe by C Grey-Wilson and M Blamey (Collins: 2nd edition, 2001); sadly, this is now out of print but is occasionally available second hand. The Rezia Alpine Botanical Garden in Bormio has labelled species and is open in summer.

Wildlife

Many birds and animals that live at high altitudes have developed thick furry coats and plumage which even cover their legs and the contours of their beaks. Small air bubbles captured between the hairs or feathers can generate a layer of insulation that helps reduce heat loss.

Majestic ibex dwell happily throughout the Stelvio

One of the easiest animals for walkers to see is the alpine marmot. These furry beaver-like creatures live in burrow colonies on grass-rock terrain and hibernate from October to April. In summer they forage for sugary wildflowers, dashing back to safety when warned of danger by the shrill cry of a sentry. The widespread conifer woods provide shelter for roe deer and stately red deer, shy creatures best seen at dusk. They often leave hoof prints in the mud. Less intimidated by human presence are the magnificent ibex, which sport sturdy grooved horns – in males these can grow as long as 1m. Their hooves have a fold in the skin which allows them to grip the rocks. Reintroduced back in the 1960s, they happily dwell throughout the Stelvio. The highest mountain dweller of the ruminants is the fleet-footed chamois. A mountain goat with short curved horns like crochet hooks, it can be seen in herds clambering nimbly on impossibly steep cliffs.

Alpine marmots colonise the grass-rock terrain

Sightings of the brown bear have increased significantly in the area over the last few years. They wander into the Stelvio from neighbouring alpine regions in search of food, often causing alarm in villages where people are no longer used to their presence. To date, however, there is no evidence they have actually taken up residence in the park.

The common viper has a distinct diamond pattern on its back

There is a fair chance you may encounter a viper on paths, as these cold-blooded reptiles need to sun themselves. With a light grey-brown body and triangular head, the snakes grow to around 70–80cm long and can be distinguished by the elegant markings on their back: diamond-patterned in the case of the common viper (Vipera berus) or dark streaks for the rarer asp viper (Vipera aspis). They live on small rodents, which they swallow whole and take time digesting. Timid creatures, they will flee if surprised and only attack out of self-defence, so give them time to slither away as they will probably be lethargic. While their bite does contain venom, this is rarely fatal to humans (small children and the elderly are most at risk). In the unlikely event that someone is bitten, seek help immediately and keep the victim still and calm. Learn to identify a viper and distinguish it from non-venomous snakes.

Birdwatchers will enjoy the sight of crag martins skimming alpine meadows and lakes in search of insects. Arolla pine forests, meanwhile, are the favourite habitat of the dappled, aptly named nutcracker, expert at cracking open pine nuts with its thick beak. From a perch at the top of the tree they also act as lookouts, their piercing squawk a clear warning for other inhabitants of the wood of potential danger. Higher up are alpine choughs, elegant crows with glossy black wings and yellow beaks; they perform entertaining aerial displays of acrobatics to the accompaniment of a noisy, chattering commentary. Choughs have the incredible knack of appearing out of nowhere at the mere rustle of a picnic bag, to beg for crumbs.

On a larger scale are birds of prey such as kites, buzzards and the superb golden eagle, which has a wingspan that can reach 2.2m. These prey on small mammals such as hares and young marmots, but will also take birds. In winter the eagle has been known to scavenge the carcasses of animals such as chamois which have fallen victim to avalanches. This puts it in direct competition with the recently returned bearded vulture or Lammergeier, which also keeps an eye out for migrating birds which drop from exhaustion as they fly through the lower alpine passes in springtime on their way north. With a wingspan up to 2.8m, a body over 1m long and weighing in at 5–7kg, the bearded vulture is easily recognised, especially as its eyesight is poor so it often flies close to the ground. Its diet is composed of 80% bones, which it cracks open by dropping them from a height onto rocks. Successfully reintroduced across the Alps, it has made its home in the park. Check out the webcam in a nest in Val Zebrù: www.gipetostelvio.it is reality TV like you have never seen before.

Wildlife lovers will especially enjoy Martelltal, Val Zebrù and Valle di Rabbi, where there are lots of animals that are relatively easy to spot. A final note: injured creatures are nursed back to recovery in the area faunistica (wildlife area) at Peio Fonti. Here visitors have better chances of seeing deer and other ruminants than out in the wild.

One excellent guidebook is the Birds of Britain and Europe by B Bruun, H Delin and L Svensson (Hamlyn, 1992).

Valleys and bases

We begin with the eastern section of the Stelvio National Park in Südtirol. A short way south of Meran/Merano is Lana, where Ultental/Val d’Ultimo breaks off southwest. A world apart – inhabited by descendants of migrants from a monastery in German Swabia – it is a rare traditional valley of great allure. The mountainsides are dotted with clusters of timber chalets and barns crafted with bulky tree trunks intricately notched together. Stained red with age, they stand witness to the valley’s agricultural heritage. All around extend manicured emerald meadows, on impossibly steep slopes where mowers must be fitted with spikes to enable farmers to harvest the hay without slipping. Pastoral activities have been key to the economy since as early as the 17th century, when 20,000 sheep were sent to graze from as far afield as Verona. Vast forests of larch and pine provide shelter to both red and roe deer, and feed the sawmills of the flourishing timber industry.

Traditional timber farms in Ultental

The tourist office, supermarket and ATM are located at St Walburg/Santa Valburga, about halfway up the valley. The highest village is St Gertraud/Santa Geltrude. Served all year round by SAD buses, it is the start of Walk 1. There is a grocery shop, café-restaurant, a scattering of hotels and a centuries-old Venetian-style sawmill driven by water. Fully operational until the 1980s, the Lahnersäge now doubles as a Park Information Point. A stroll away stand the Urlärchen, three ancient larch trees that have been there for over 2000 years. A trifle battered and damaged by lightning strikes, they are still the oldest conifers in the whole of Europe. The road ends further uphill at Weissbrunnsee/Lago Fontana Bianca (Walks 2 and 3), one of the many lakes dammed in the 1960s for hydroelectricity to capture the glacier melt.

Forming the southernmost edge of the Stelvio National Park, Val di Sole lies wholly within the Italian-speaking region of Trentino. Although sole means ‘sun’ in Italian, the name is derived from the Celtic goddess of waters, found in abundance here. It runs due west–east from Passo del Tonale beneath glaciated ranges and alongside apple orchards. Malè is the key railway station (FTM Ferrovia Trento Malè trains from Trento to Marilleva), while all the district’s bus services (Trentino Trasporti) fan out from here. Its charming historic centre hosts markets, a wealth of gourmet food shops, hotels, ATMs and a tourist office.

Two beautiful side valleys branch north off Val di Sole; both correspond to geological faults and are rich in mineral waters (a bottling plant operates at Peio). Mining was once widespread, and traces of the activity live on in place names such as Fucine, meaning ‘furnace’.

On the Saent waterfall route in Val di Rabbi (Walk 7)

Val di Rabbi forks north from Malè. San Bernardo is the first sizeable village with tourist information and an ATM, as well as hotels. Not far along is the low-key spa resort of Rabbi Fonti (with a Park Visitor Centre and hotels), the end of the bus line and the perfect base for Walks 4–9. The attractions of this lovely valley – free from ski infrastructure – include the fascinating Segheria Veneziana sawmill, the spectacular Saent waterfalls, the varied wildlife and the active dairy farms that play an important part in the economy. Summer shuttle buses organised by the National Park serve the side valleys.

Val di Peio, or Pejo, forks northwest off the Val di Sole at Cusiano. A string of old alpine communities that thrive on tourism and a mineral water bottling plant are centred around Cogolo (Park Visitor Centre, ATM). Here the valley forks – north leads up the narrowing thickly forested valley to Malga Mare, gateway to a refuge set opposite the Cevedale and cascading glaciers (Walk 10).

The other fork goes west to Peio Fonti, a renowned spa resort that makes a first-rate base for walkers, with a jumble of hotels, groceries, ATM and cable car. Walks 11–13 are accessed from here, including spectacular Monte Vioz. Buses from Malè serve Peio Fonti before continuing up to the pretty village of Peio Paese, a peaceful spot perched on the sunny hillside with lovely views, food shops and accommodation. Its 15th-century bell tower boasts a remarkable 7m tall fresco portraying St Christopher. A minor road proceeds west along Val del Monte (Walk 14) as far as Fontanino di Celentino (Walk 15).

Peio Fonti spa resort (Walks 11–13)

Located in Alta Valtellina, the bustling alpine township of Bormio is an excellent starting point for visiting the western Lombardia slice of the Stelvio National Park. It has a charming centre with medieval buildings that testify to the town’s strategic importance at an alpine crossroads, and in winter people flock here for the extensive ski domain. There is a decent range of accommodation and facilities (supermarkets, ATM, park and tourist information). Bormio is easily reached by public transport: Perego buses are plentiful from Tirano (on the rail line from Milano as well as St Moritz in Switzerland and the spectacular Bernina Express). At a sunny confluence of valleys, it is dominated by a striking limestone crest, Reit. Bormio is handy for Walk 23; moreover, the dramatic Stelvio Pass road strikes out north close to the Swiss border, providing access for Walks 24 and 25.

Branching east from Bormio is Valfurva; here the village of San Nicolò marks the opening of wild and wonderful Val Zebrù, explored in Walk 20. From there it is a very short trip to the resort village of Santa Caterina Valfurva (bus, hotels, groceries, ATM, tourist information) and Walks 16 and 21. A convenient base in itself, it acts as the gateway to Valle dei Forni and Val Cedèc, which offer high-altitude refuges and magnificent glaciers. At their confluence stands historic Rifugio Forni, a wonderful place to stay, especially if you plan on Walks 17, 18 and 21.

Entry to the northeast section of the National Park is via Südtirol’s Vinschgau/Val Venosta, home to the handy Meran–Mals train that runs through apple orchards. At Spondinig/Spondigna a road heads southwest to the junction of Gomagoi. Here Suldental/Val di Solda slices south to the sun-blessed resort of Sulden/Solda, which offers a host of hotels, a tourist office, ATM, supermarket, year-round SAD buses, chairlifts and a cable car. The spectacular presence of the glaciated giants Ortler and Königspitze make every outing here breathtaking – Walks 29–31.

The famous Stelvio road on the Südtirol side

From Gomagoi the road continues southwest up Trafoiertal/Valle di Trafoi, steep-sided, narrow and edged by a stunning line-up of glaciers and soaring peaks – the setting for Trafoi (Walks 27 and 28). This tiny village serves the great Stelvio Pass, and is the destination of the road and the summer SAD buses. In winter when the road is closed the village’s 80 residents enjoy peace and quiet with no through traffic. The name comes from the ancient Ladin language spoken by the original inhabitants. Sources link the meaning with ‘clover’ or ‘three springs’, in view of the much-visited Drei Brunnen sanctuary nearby (Walk 28). It is home to the 1970s Italian ski champion Gustav Thöni of ‘Valanga Azzurra’ (‘blue avalanche’) fame. It has an ATM, groceries, a fair sprinkling of hotels as well as a camping ground and well-run visitor information centre.

Martelltal/Val Martello turns south off Vinschgau and the train line at Goldrain/Coldrano, not far from Latsches/Laces (tourist office). This magnificent unspoilt alpine valley is a superb introduction to the nature and glacial environment of the Stelvio National Park and it has a good scattering of hotels and guesthouses. The lower–mid reaches are occupied by thriving settlements of shepherds and farmers who have branched out into growing strawberries, while further up the slopes are heavily wooded and home to deer and chamois. A great bonus is the absence of bulldozed ski slopes and lifts.

Year-round SAD buses run via Gand to the lively village of Martell Dorf/Martello (shops and ATM). Here a side road goes on to terminate at the renowned family-run Stallwieshof and start of Walk 37 to Orgelspitze.

From Gand a summer extension serves the upper valley via Waldheim (Walk 38) as far as Gasthof Enzian. This cosy establishment makes an excellent base for Walks 32–36, which wander up paths to natural belvederes taking in waterfalls and glaciers in the shadow of the majestic Cevedale.

Getting there

By plane

Handy airports are located at Milano (Linate and Malpensa www.sea-aeroportimilano.it), Bergamo (Orio Al Serio www.sacbo.it) and Brescia (www.aeroportobrescia.it) for the western valleys of Lombardia, while Verona (www.aeroportoverona.it) is better placed for accessing the Trentino and Südtirol sections. Innsbruck airport (www.innsbruck-airport.com) is useful if approaching from Austria and the north.

By train

From Milano Centrale, Trenitalia trains run via Lecco then along the Valtellina to Tirano, which doubles as the terminus for the Bernina Express from St Moritz in Switzerland. From Brescia, the Trenord railway via Iseo goes as far as Edolo. The main Verona–Brenner Pass line served by Trenitalia is good for Trento, where the FTM branch line heads off to Malè. Further north is Bozen/Bolzano where a line forks off for Meran/Merano and from there Vinschgau/Val Venosta and the terminal of Mals/Malles. Travellers arriving from Austria on the Brenner Pass line can use either Trenitalia or Austrian Rail.

By road

Via Europe’s extensive network of motorways, useful entry points to Italy for the Stelvio National Park are from Austria via the Brenner Pass and the A22 autostrada (motorway), or via Landeck through the Reschenpass. From Switzerland the Umbrail and Bernina passes will be open in summer, otherwise there is the A9 via Como to Milano.

Approaching the Torri di Fraele and Monte delle Scale (Walk 23)

Local transport

It is perfectly feasible to have a car-free holiday in the Stelvio National Park, and thus avoid contributing to air pollution and congestion. An excellent, extensive and reasonably priced network of trains and buses serves villages and valleys across the three regions and nearly all the walks in this guidebook start and finish at places accessible by public transport. This means that the driving is done by experts who know the roads and hairpin bends like the back of their hand, leaving passengers free to sit back and enjoy the magnificent scenery. Where there is no bus, a local taxi is usually available. Strategically placed cable cars and chairlifts are also used on several walks to facilitate ascents.

In Lombardia Perego buses start out from Tirano railway station and serve Bormio and the surroundings areas with Passo dello Stelvio (Stilfser Joch). The company also has a link from Edolo via Aprica to Tirano.

In Südtirol SAD trains link Meran with Mals, and from the intermediate stations buses run up the Ultental, Martelltal, Suldental and Trafoiertal, extending to the Stilfser Joch (Passo dello Stelvio).

The Trentino valleys are served by Trentino Trasporti trains from Trento to Malè with connecting buses to the Rabbi and Peio valleys.

Bus tickets should usually be purchased in advance, either at the bus station or at newsstands or tobacconists displaying the appropriate logo.

Useful expressions

The following expressions may come in useful when purchasing tickets.

Un biglietto/due biglietti per Malè per favore	One ticket/two tickets to Malè please
Andata	single
Andata e ritorno	return
Quanto costa?	How much is that?
Grazie	Thank you
Prego	You’re welcome

The following phrases may be helpful for understanding timetables.

Cambio a…/coincidenza	change at…/connection
Estivo/invernale	summer/winter
Feriale	working days (Monday to Saturday)
Festivo	holidays (Sundays and public holidays)
Giornaliero	daily
Lunedì a venerdì/sabato	Monday to Friday/Saturday
Navetta	shuttle service
Sciopero	strike
Scolastico	during school term

Generally speaking, summer timetables cover the June to September period, but this tends to vary from year to year and place to place. Local tourist offices are always in the know and timetables can be consulted on the websites listed in Appendix D. Several good deals are available for visitors – always enquire locally. Alta Valtellina has an excellent value ‘Welcome Card’ for the Perego bus networks. In Südtirol, ‘Mobilcard’ multi-day passes are recommended for the SAD lines; a multi-trip ticket ‘carta valori’ is also on sale.

Contact details for bus, train, local taxi, cable car and chairlift companies are listed in Appendix D.

The Ortler is seen beyond the chairlift (Walk 26)

Information

The Italian Tourist Board has offices all over the world and can help prospective travellers with general information (see www.enit.it).

UK: 1 Princes St, London W1B 2AY Tel 207 3993562.

USA: 630, Fifth Avenue – suite 1656, New York NY 10111 Tel 212 2455618.

Australia: Level 4, 46 Market St, Sydney, NSW 2000 Tel 02 92621666.

The many tourist offices in the Stelvio valleys can provide help with local accommodation and transport (see contact details in Appendix D). When making a phone call in Italy, remember to always include the initial zero of the landline number. Numbers beginning with ‘3’ are mobiles and need to be dialled as they stand (in other words without a zero). If calling from overseas preface all Italian telephone numbers with +39.

The Stelvio National Park websites are www.stelviopark.it and www.parks.it/parco.nazionale.stelvio. Visitor Centres are open throughout the midsummer months. All have a summer calendar of guided walks which visitors can join for a very modest fee. See Appendix D for contact details.

When to go

The best time to visit Stelvio is July, August and September when the walking days are long, conditions are good, and facilities such as refuges and local transport are readily available. However, as early as June, low to mid-altitude paths will often be snow-free, flowers will be starting to bloom and hotels offer off-season rates. October can mean crystal clear skies, perfect visibility and autumn colours, although there is a risk of early snow. Italy goes off summer daylight saving time at the end of October, giving shorter days for walking.

Accommodation

Villages and towns throughout the Stelvio National Park offer a good range of hotel (albergo), guesthouse (locanda, Gasthof), bed and breakfast (affittacamera, Garni, B&B) and farm stay (agriturismo) accommodation to suit all pockets. Suggestions are given in Appendix C. Families with small children will appreciate the freedom of a house (casa) or flat (appartamento); rentals are common, usually on a weekly basis – consult the relevant tourist office website.

Reservation – even in key resorts such as Sulden/Solda or Bormio – is not usually necessary outside the mid-August peak season, but it is always best to book ahead to avoid disappointment. If you are driving through, look out for signs saying camera libera (Italian) or Zimmer frei (German) signs.

Camping and overnight bivouacs are strictly forbidden within the Stelvio National Park, except in emergencies. A tent is still a good option for a low-budget holiday but be aware that campsites are few and far between – see Appendix C for listings.

Approaching Tabarettahütte (Walk 29)

Although all the walks described in this guidebook are designed to be completed in a single day to allow for a return to valley accommodation, an overnight stay in a high-altitude alpine rifugio (refuge) is always a memorable experience and can be the highlight of a walking holiday. With the odd exception at road level, these refuges are located in spectacular high-altitude positions accessible only on foot. They are generally open from late June to late September/October (although a handful open in spring for ski tourers).

Refuges offer reasonably priced meals and refreshments as well as sleeping facilities that range from spartan dormitories with bunk beds to cosy simple guest rooms. Pillows and blankets are always provided so sleeping bags are not needed. Sleeping sheets are, however, compulsory in club huts so carry your own. You will also need a small towel. Flip-flops or lightweight rubber sandals are a good idea as boots are not worn inside huts. Hut rules also include no smoking and lights out from 10pm–6am. Charges are around €18–25 for a bed and €40–50 for half board, which means a three-course dinner, overnight stay and breakfast. Some huts are privately owned, although the majority belong to the Italian Alpine Club CAI (Club Alpino Italiano), its Trentino branch SAT (Società Alpinisti Tridentini) and the Südtirol Club AVS (Alpenverein Südtirol).

Refuges – whether club or privately managed – are open to everyone. Members of affiliated alpine associations from other countries get discounted rates (approximately 50% off bed rates) in line with reciprocal agreements. Members of the British Mountaineering Council and Mountaineering Council of Scotland can buy a Reciprocal Rights Card from the BMC website (www.thebmc.co.uk), and it is also possible to join the UK branch of the Austrian Alpine Club (Tel 01929 556870; www.aacuk.org.uk) or CAI, the Italian Alpine Club (www.cai.it) – contact an individual branch directly.

Refuge accommodation must be booked in advance on July and August weekends, preferably by phone as few have email access during the summer. ‘Vorrei prenotare un posto letto/due posti letto’ means ‘I’d like to book one/two beds’. Be aware that if you book but do not turn up, you could set in motion costly (for you!) alpine search and rescue procedures, so remember to phone and cancel if you change your plans; but do give plenty of warning for courtesy. Some establishments accept credit cards but it is best to carry a supply of euros in cash to be on the safe side. See Appendix C for listings of all the refuges visited in this guide.

Lyfi Alm provides home-style meals and refreshments (Walk 35)

Food and drink

A holiday in the Stelvio National Park is also a guarantee of memorable gastronomical experiences thanks to the rich culinary traditions of the Lombardia, Trentino and Südtirol regions.

Hearty soups feature regularly on menus: minestrone with vegetables is unfailingly satisfying, as is substantial zuppa d’orzo with barley, while Gulaschsuppe, a rich tomatoey soup with chunks of beef and paprika, is another good bet. Pasta starts with pizzoccheri, a wholesome and filling dish of buckwheat pasta, cabbage and potatoes smothered with melted cheese. Gnocchi con ortiche are tiny potato and nettle dumplings, while Trentino versions are strangolapreti (priest stranglers!) incorporating spinach, and monchi made with polenta (cornmeal) and smothered with sage-flavoured butter. Do try capelazzi, over-sized ravioli stuffed with ricotta, and when in the Südtirol, if you can get your tongue around the name, seek out Kartoffelteigtaschen mit Bergkäse, pockets of fresh pasta filled with soft potato and served with melted local cheese.

A tagliere (‘cutting board’/platter) is always a good choice for lunch or a snack, especially at a mountain farm or eatery with local dairy products, and will hold a selection of local cheeses, cold meats and sausage served with bread. In the Trentino valleys Casolet is a guarantee of a smooth, tasty cow’s cheese made using a traditional technique. Poina is a sort of ricotta (a non-lumpy version of cottage cheese), a creamy fresh spread produced with whey and either smeared on bread with miele (honey), or melted over hot polenta (cornmeal). Another version is Asni, which has garlic, salt and pepper added before being enfumegada (smoked) to keep it longer. There are plenty of cold sausages similar to salami. Valtellina is renowned for its Bresaola, dried beef flavoured with juniper berries and herbs and eaten in transparent slices. The area’s cheese production is prodigious – scumid is a sharp type and goat’s cheese (formaggio di capra) is common, both fresh as well as compact, pungent and mature. Sciatt (literally ‘toad’ in dialect) are delicious cheese-filled fritters made with grappa-flavoured batter.

Of the vast choice of meats, spicy goulash stew and stinco or roast pork shank are dishes to look forward to.

Kaiserschmarrn, a Südtirol speciality

On the sweet front, in the Trentino valleys look out for carrot cakes (torta di carote) or the variously spelled torta di fregoloti, a delectable lumpy shortbread made with chopped almonds. In the Südtirol go for either Kaiserschmarrn, a concoction of sliced pancake with dried fruit and redcurrant jelly, or the ubiquitous Apfelstrudel (sliced apple enveloped in thin filo-like pastry) sold in every bakery, pastry shop and café.

As regards liquid refreshment, homemade cordials may be on offer such as Holunder (elderflower) or even alpenrose. There is a range of high-quality wines – all reds – from the valleys surrounding the Stelvio Park: Lagrein and Blauburgunder from the Bozen basin, Teroldego and Schiava from the Trentino valleys, and fragrant Sassella and Inferno from Valtellina.

Coffee comes in classical Italian style with short black espresso, milky frothy cappuccino or less concentrated caffé latte.

Most villages and farms still have their age-old drinking fountains. Tap water (acqua da rubinetto) is always safe to drink (potabile means drinkable) and can be requested in cafés and restaurants instead of the bottled mineral water that causes so much unnecessary pollution as it is transported back and forth across Europe.

What to take

 Good quality waterproof boots with ankle support and non-slip soles, preferably not brand new unless you plan to protect your feet with sticking plaster. Trainers are inadequate for alpine paths.

 A comfortable medium-sized rucksack (max 20 litres capacity), large enough to contain food, drink and necessities for a full day out.

 Rain gear – a waterproof jacket, trousers and rucksack cover are ideal, or a full-length poncho; a folding umbrella is handy for walkers who wear glasses.

 Binoculars for watching birds and animals, and a camera.

 A basic first aid kit including sticking plasters.

 Maps, compass and altimeter.

 A whistle and headlamp or torch for attracting attention in emergencies.

 Sun hat, glasses and high-factor suncream; remember that for every 1000m of ascent, the intensity of the sun’s UV rays increases by 10%, and many walks in this guidebook are above the tree line.

 A range of layered clothing to cater for conditions ranging from fiery sun through to lashing rain and storms, and occasionally snow.

 Lightweight telescopic trekking poles are handy for descending steep slopes and easing the weight of a rucksack off knees and back.

 A full day’s supply of water. At some huts the water may be labelled non potabile (undrinkable) if supplies come from snow-melt. Check with the staff if in doubt.

 Although food is available at huts on the majority of walks described here, it is best not to rely on them – always be self-sufficient and carry generous amounts of your own. Bad weather, minor accidents and all manner of unforeseen factors could hold you up on the track, and that extra biscuit or energy bar could become crucial.

 Mineral salt tablets are helpful in combating salt depletion and dehydration caused by profuse sweating; unexplained prolonged fatigue and symptoms similar to heatstroke indicate a problem.

Maps

The Stelvio National Park has an excellent network of paths, each marked with frequently placed red/white paint stripes on prominent fence posts, tree trunks and rocks, and complete with its own distinguishing number. Note that path numbers were recently changed across the park in line with a nationwide campaign to standardise waymarking. The old faded numbers are still visible on the ground in places, although new ones appear on signposts and updated editions of maps so there should be no cause for confusion.

Waymarking on a tree trunk

Sketch maps are provided in this guidebook showing the layout of the walk, with essential landmarks. Limitations of space make it impossible to include full details – essential in an emergency – so it is imperative that walkers obtain a commercial map. The Tabacco ‘carta topografica per escursionisti’ 1:25,000 scale series is one of the clearest on the market (www.tabaccoeditrice.com). These maps use a continuous red line for a wide track, while a broken red line indicates a marked path of average difficulty. Red dots denote routes that are exposed, difficult or faint, while red crosses denote aided sections such as cable or ladders as well as full-blooded via ferrata routes.

Signposts in Valfurva

The relevant sheets are:

 N.08 Ortles-Cevedale Ortlergebiet for Walks 16–22, 25–31

 N.045 Laces-Val Martello-Silandro for Walks 1–3, 32–38

 N.048 Val di Peio-Val di Rabbi-Val di Sole for Walks 4–15

The maps are sold in shops throughout the Stelvio National Park as well as leading outdoor suppliers and booksellers worldwide. In the UK consult The Map Shop (www.themapshop.co.uk) or Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk) if you prefer to purchase them beforehand.

All the walks are covered by Tabacco, with the exception of Walks 23 and 24, for which you need the new Ingenua 1:25,000 scale maps. Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio Sheet 2 covers Walks 16–25 and 27–31. Order from www.cartoguide.it or purchase at Bormio.

Lastly, www.altavaltellina.eu also do 1:25,000 maps at a cheap €1, although the graphics are not always clear and route difficulty is not shown.

Kompass also has a good range of walking maps that cover the Stelvio (www.kompass-italia.it).

A note on place names: in the Südtirol region of Italy they are bilingual – German and Italian – on maps, signposts and refuges. Both are used in this guidebook the first time they are mentioned, thereafter the German is given preference as that is the region’s dominant language.

There is an Italian–German–English glossary of topographic and other useful terms in Appendix B.

Dos and don’ts

It is better to arrive early and dry, than late and wet.

 Find time to get in good shape before setting out on your holiday, as it will maximise your enjoyment. You will appreciate the wonderful scenery more if you are not exhausted, and you will react better in an emergency.

 Do not be overly ambitious – choose itineraries suited to your capabilities. Read the walk description carefully before setting out.

 Always leave word at your hotel of your planned route, or sign the hut register if staying in a rifugio, as this may come in helpful for rescuers.

 Do not set out late and always have extra time up your sleeve to allow for detours due to missing bridges or signposts, and wrong turns. Plan on getting to your destination early in hot weather as afternoon storms are not uncommon. As a general rule, start out early morning to give yourself plenty of daylight.

 Stick with your companions and do not lose sight of them. Remember that the progress of groups matches that of the slowest member.

 Avoid walking in brand new footwear, or you will get blisters; but leave old worn-out boots in the shed as they may prove unsafe on slippery terrain. Choose your footwear carefully.

 Do not overload your rucksack.

 Carry extra protective clothing as well as energy foods for emergency situations. Remember that the temperature drops an average of 6°C for every 1000m you climb.

 Check the weather forecast if possible – tourist offices and hut guardians are always in the know. For the Südtirol see www.suedtirol.information, Trentino has www.meteotrentino.it and Lombardia http://ita.arpalombardia.it. Never set out on a long route in adverse conditions. Even a broad, level track can become treacherous in bad weather, and high-altitude terrain enveloped in thick mist makes orientation difficult. An altimeter is useful – when a known altitude (such as that of the refuge) goes up, this means the atmospheric pressure has dropped and the weather could change for the worse.

 Do carry your rubbish back to the valley where it can be disposed of correctly; do not expect hut or park staff to deal with it. Even organic waste such as apple cores and orange peel is best not left lying around as it upsets the diet of animals and birds.

 Be considerate when making a toilet stop. Keep away from watercourses, do not leave unsightly paper lying around and remember that abandoned huts and rock overhangs could serve as life-saving shelter for someone else.

 Collecting flowers, insects or minerals is strictly forbidden, as are fires.

 Learn the international call for help, described in the following section. DO NOT rely on your mobile phone as many alpine valleys have no signal. Refuges have landlines and experienced staff can always be relied on in an emergency. In electrical storms, do not shelter under trees or rock overhangs and keep away from metallic fixtures.

 Lastly, do not leave your common sense at home.

The path draws close to Lago di Pian Palù (Walk 15)

Emergencies

For medical matters EU residents need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Holders are entitled to free or subsidised emergency treatment in Italy, which has an excellent national health service. UK residents can apply online at www.dh.gov.uk. Australia similarly has a reciprocal agreement – see www.medicareaustralia.gov.au. Other nationalities should take out suitable insurance. In any case travel insurance for a walking holiday is strongly recommended as costs in the case of rescue and repatriation can be hefty. Members of alpine clubs are usually covered, but do check before you depart.

The following services may be of help should problems arise:

 Polizia (police) Tel 113

 Health-related urgencies including ambulanza (ambulance) and soccorso alpino (mountain rescue) Tel 118

 ‘Help!’ in Italian is Aiuto!, pronounced ‘eye-you-tow’, and Zu Hilfe! in German.

Should help be needed, use the following internationally recognised rescue signals: six signals per minute either visual (waving a handkerchief or flashing a torch) or audible (shouting or whistling), repeated after a pause of one minute. The answer is three visual or audible signals per minute, to be repeated after a one-minute pause. Anyone who sees or hears a call for help must contact the nearest mountain hut or police station, as quickly as possible.

The hand-signals in the following diagram could be useful for communicating at a distance or with a helicopter.

In Lombardia if you call out Mountain Rescue, let them know your location by referring to the numerical code found on the back of all path signposts.

The path above Zufallhütte (Walk 33)

Using this guide

The 38 walks in this guide have been selected for their suitability for a wide range of active holidaymakers. There is something for everyone, from easy strolls to strenuous climbs to panoramic peaks for experienced walkers. As each walk has been designed to fit into a single day this means carrying a small rucksack and being able to return to comfortable hotel accommodation at day’s end. That said, many walks become even more enjoyable if stretched out over two days, with an overnight stay in a rifugio.

Each walk description is preceded by an information box containing the following essential data:

 Start

 Finish

 Distance – given in both kilometres (km) and miles.

 Ascent/Descent – this is important information, as height loss and gain rather than distance indicate the effort required and an ascent/descent factor should be summed to difficulty when planning a day out. A walker of average fitness will usually cover 300m (about 1000ft) in ascent in one hour (100m=328ft).

 Difficulty

 Grade 1 – an easy route on clear tracks and paths, suitable for beginners.

 Grade 2 – paths across typical mountain terrain, often rocky and with significant ups and downs, where a reasonable level of fitness is preferable.

 Grade 3 – strenuous, often entailing narrow exposed stretches and drawn-out climbs. Experience and extra care are recommended.

It is extremely important to remember that adverse weather conditions will make any route more arduous. Even a level road can be treacherous if icy.