Читать книгу The Motor Routes of England: Western Section - Gordon Home - Страница 17

Tamworth.—An ancient town; historic castle; Perpendicular church.

Lichfield.—Cathedral; statue of, and associations with, Samuel Johnson.

Shifnal.—Pretty town, with quaint timbered houses; church Norman, Early English, and Decorated.

Wroxeter.—The Roman Uriconium; Roman remains.

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(Trunk) No. 3. ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY. (Trunk) No. 3.

At Atherstone the railway is passed by a bridge, superseding a former level-crossing. Immediately to the left a road leads to the site of the almost demolished Merevale Abbey, the chapel of which is still used as a parish church, and contains recumbent effigies of the Ferrers family. The road to Fazeley is undulating and uninteresting. To the south of the town lies Drayton Manor, the seat of the great Sir Robert Peel. Here one is forcibly reminded by ocular evidence that this is a mining district. A turning to the right leads to

TAMWORTH,

one of the most ancient towns in Warwickshire and Staffordshire, for it stands in both counties. It was a royal residence in the time of the Heptarchy, and from that remote period to the present time the castle has been of more or less importance—in fact, it is one of the most ancient buildings in Central England. The mound upon which it stands is of British origin; Queen Ethelfleda (died 918) erected the castle which, with many alterations and additions, meets the view at the present day. It has recently been acquired by the Corporation, and is open to visitors. The ancient causeway leading to the entrance presents the finest example of Saxon 'herring-bone' masonry to be found in the kingdom. The circular keep is of picturesque red sandstone, which does much to mitigate the effect of the Perpendicular windows. The venerable building was the home of the Marmions, the Frevilles, and the Ferrers, and in 'Marmion' we find:

'They hailed him lord of Fontenaye,

Of Lutterward and Scrivelbaye,

Of Tamworth Tower and Town.'

The last of the Marmions died in 1291. The bases of the dungeon walls are four yards thick, and a visit to the castle interior gives the impression of massive solidity.

Tamworth Church, founded in the eighth century, was destroyed by the Danes in 874, and rebuilt by King Edgar. In 1345 it was burnt, but rebuilt. The crypt and two Norman transept arches remain of the early building. The late Perpendicular tower contains a curious double staircase, and is a prominent feature for many miles round.

LICHFIELD

The road to Lichfield lies by the side of the River Tame for some distance, but it passes through a colliery district; some finely wooded knolls, however, occur on either side of the road. About three miles before reaching the city the barracks are seen upon the right, with an extensive common for training purposes; at the same time the three Cathedral spires, 'The Ladies of the Vale,' form an attractive feature in the landscape. The road leads directly to the Cathedral, which is one of those exquisitely pretty ecclesiastical edifices which one wishes to put under a glass case for preservation from the elements. It has been the seat of a bishopric since the seventh century, and is connected with St. Chad. A Norman church succeeded the Saxon edifice, but has entirely disappeared. The earliest part of the present building, the west choir, dates from c. 1200; the south and north transepts followed, and the nave and west front date from about 1275. The eastern parts were finished in 1325. The central spire was destroyed during the Civil War, and rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren.

The Cathedral is open to the public from 9.30 to 5 on weekdays.

LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL.

It is one of the smaller cathedrals, but its workmanship is of an exquisite richness.

Upon entering the west front, which is one of the most beautiful in England in the Decorated style, the Early English nave with dog-tooth mouldings, the clustered pillars, and the fine vaulting, impress one by their beauty and gracefulness. In the north transept one finds five lancet windows, with Perpendicular examples on either side. In the south transept the vaulted roof, with its huge bosses, and the large Perpendicular window are special features, and here the rich stained glass and the warm appearance of the red sandstone produce an effect upon which the eye delights to dwell. The choir, with its side aisles, richly vaulted roof, and huge windows springing from the triforium, at once attract the visitor's attention. The early Decorated blank arcading of the aisles is interesting, as is also the peep afforded into a building upon the south side. In the south aisle of the retro-choir a celebrated monument, the 'Sleeping Children,' touches a chord that vibrates in the nature of all who possess the tenderness of human sympathy. The Lady Chapel has rich Decorated arcading upon its walls, from above which spring nine windows with trefoil tracery. In seven of these is the stained glass that once adorned the great Cistercian nunnery of Herckenrode, in the Bishopric of Liège. It dates from 1530, and was brought to England after the suppression of the nunnery in 1802. Although one of the smallest of English cathedrals, Lichfield is singularly impressive by reason of beautiful details and graceful proportions. Although actually situated in a valley, its site is the highest in England, with the exception of St. Albans.

In the Market Square stands the statue of Samuel Johnson, opposite the house in which the great lexicographer first saw the light.

In order to rejoin the Watling Street, the road marked 'To Cannock' should be taken, and about one and a half miles from the city a turning to the right leads to that place. Continue, however, in the same straight line for another one and a half miles, and the Watling Street will be struck, leading off to the right at Muckley Corner. The Roman station of Eteocetum lies about one mile to the south-east at Wall, where the Rycknield Street starts for the North. This is missed by the detour to Tamworth and Lichfield.

Near Brownhills Common a large piece of water—Cannock Chase reservoir—lies to the right, and farther on another reservoir is passed. Two miles beyond Gailey railway-bridge is the site of the Roman station of Pennocrucium, near a roadside inn, and immediately afterwards the Shropshire Union Canal crosses the road by an aqueduct. Boscobel House and Park lie about a mile towards the south, with the famous oak in which Charles hid himself after Worcester. A straight run of seven miles passes by Weston Park, renowned for its beauty, and brings one to a turning on the left, the main road to Shifnal. It is advisable to pass through Shifnal and regain the Watling Street farther on, and thus avoid the extremely bad road between Redhill and Oakengates.

Shifnal is an interesting little town, possessing many quaint old timbered houses, with overhanging upper stories, often enriched by carving. A turning to the right in the middle of the town leads to the Church. It possesses many curious remains of Norman architecture, among which are the chancel arch and a portion of the south transept. The main structure is Early English and Decorated, the tower arches being of the former period. The tomb and effigy of the Prior of Wombridge, 1526, and some Elizabethan monuments are in the chancel. Over the south porch is a parvise, which projects in a novel manner into the church, and is supported there upon two pillars.

From Shifnal to Oakengates, the reputed site of Uxaconium, is mainly downhill, and through a colliery district, with all the usual concomitants pertaining to it. After a run of about six miles, during which the Wrekin, 1,335 feet high, lies to the left, a turning at an inn is reached leading to

WROXETER

This is the ancient Uriconium, destroyed by fire in the fifth century, and the imposing Roman remains form one of the chief attractions for visitors in the immediate vicinity of Shrewsbury. To the archæologist it is of supreme interest, as an immense variety of Roman remains have come to light, including many parts of the massive walls, the basilica and public baths. There are also exposed to view well-preserved examples of the hypocausts of villas. Should a detour be made to the site of this important Roman town, the largest encountered since leaving Verulamium, a good road will be found leading back to the main route, and thence to Shrewsbury. Continuing on the main road, one crosses the Severn, and keeps it for some time upon the right hand. Entering Shrewsbury, the centre of the town is approached by a steep hill, 1 in 10, where caution must be exercised on account of the traffic.

(For town plan of Shrewsbury, see p. 77.)