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INTRODUCTION

Those seeking alpine superlatives in the Bavarian Alps will search in vain. There are no peaks that can compete with the Matterhorn or Mont Blanc in terms of height, no glaciers of considerable extent, and even the ski slopes have a rather provincial aspect when compared to such famous resorts as Zermatt or St Moritz. Nevertheless, even without superlatives the Bavarian Alps still have their fair share of dramatic scenery. Their position between the lowlands to the north and the higher alpine regions further south offers a dramatic contrast in landscapes, and the proximity of Austria adds further to the region’s charms.

For the walker the advantages of this location are many. For example, it is never far from the valley bottom to the top of a rugged mountain peak, from a picturesque village nestling in the lush green foothills to a lonely alpine tarn. A day in the mountains could be followed by an outing to historic Salzburg (especially if you are based in either Bad Reichenhall or Berchtesgaden) or Munich from where, on a clear autumn day, the mountains seem only a stone’s throw away. One need not even go that far to enjoy a lazy day, for strung along the edge of the Alps is a succession of beautiful lakes (many of which are suitable for bathing), fairy-tale castles (around Füssen), ancient monasteries and opulent baroque churches. Folklore traditions are particularly strong in this part of Bavaria, evident in the numerous Heimatabende (evenings of folk dancing and songs) and the not-uncommon aspect of gnarled old men sporting flowing white beards and wearing lederhosen.

Tradition runs strong in Bavaria: alpenhorn concert at the Kanzelwandbahn (Walk 9)

Of the many hundreds of excellent walking trails to be explored in the Bavarian Alps only a small selection are described in detail in this book. They vary in length from a half-day to four or five days and many are circular (convenient if you have to get back to your car). Where possible, suggestions have been made for longer tours, but with the help of the recommended maps it should be possible to work out your own variations and additional routes.

History

Much of the history of what we now know as Germany is characterised by the fluctuating borders of independent and often warring duchies, princedoms and kingdoms. Bavaria’s history reflects this from the time Germanic tribes coalesced with other groups left after the retreat of the Romans in the late fifth century. This amalgam of peoples came to be known as the Baiuvarii or Bavarians.

In the sixth century Bavaria became a duchy and remained so until 1806. During this span of time its borders repeatedly changed; at one point large parts of Austria and part of northern Italy belonged to Bavaria. With the advent of the 10th century the duchy joined the Holy Roman Empire. In 1180 the Emperor awarded the duchy to the Wittelsbachs who were to rule first as dukes and later kings for over 700 years.

When Napoleon I abolished the Holy Roman Empire in 1806 Bavaria became a constitutional monarchy. With the rise of Prussia, and the unification of Germany under the German Empire in 1871, the kingdom became a state within the empire. After World War I the monarchy and the empire came to an end. A short-lived socialist republic followed and then Bavaria joined the Weimar Republic. The instability of this republic enabled the emergence of the Nazis, and Hitler helped stage the Beer Hall Putsch in Munich in 1923. After the end of Nazi rule (1933–1945) Bavaria became a part of the Federal Republic of Germany. Today it is the largest and one of the wealthiest of Germany’s 16 states.

Culture

Art and architecture

In few areas of Germany did the opulent baroque and rococo styles (17th–18th centuries) achieve the pre-eminence that they have in Upper Bavaria. Baroque churches with their onion domes seem to rise above every village and are seen perched on hills throughout the region. The even brighter colours and more joyful forms of the rococo (which developed from the baroque) can be admired in many village churches, but it is above all the Pilgrimage Church of Wies (Wieskirche) near Steingaden where it can be seen at its most stunning.

Ceiling detail in the former baroque Monastery Church of St Martin at Fischbachau, near Birkenstein (Walk 43)

However, the baroque influence was not restricted to just the church, it also filtered down to the world of the ordinary folk. This is mainly seen in the 18th-century frescoed house-fronts (Lüftlmalerei) of Oberammergau and Mittenwald and in folk-art such as the painted farmhouse furniture that can be admired in numerous museums of local history.

LUDWIG II, KING OF BAVARIA

Ludwig II (1845–86), King of Bavaria, was both a romantic and tragic figure. He was deposed in 1886 on grounds of supposed insanity and soon after found drowned under mysterious circumstances. A patron of the arts and friend of Wagner, his passion for building castles brought him to the verge of ruin. Yet it is Ludwig who is today the most popular of Bavarian monarchs. His castles Neuschwanstein, Linderhof and Herrenchiemsee now attract visitors from all over the world. They also earned him the title of ‘fairy-tale’ king.

King Ludwig II

Large, picturesque wooden farmhouses are also typical of the region. A feature is the large balcony decorated with flowers on the house front. It is occasionally possible to see a traditional roof with wooden tiles and stones on top to protect it from strong winds.

That the stunning alpine scenery attracted artists is hardly surprising. The 19th-century Romantic painter Carl Rottmann was among the many who tried to capture alpine grandeur on canvas. In the 20th century artists of the Blue Rider school pioneered a move to abstraction. A museum devoted to leading member Franz Marc can be visited at Kochel am See (Walchensee). Lovis Corinth, one of the most important exponents of German Expressionism, was also fascinated by the area around Walchensee.

Traditional culture

Bavarians can be characterised as a conservative, devoutly religious people (mainly Catholic) and nowhere is this truer than in the alpine regions described in this guide.

Tracht, or folklore costume, plays an important role. Lederhosen (leather pants) and dirndl dresses can be seen as an integral part of the Bavarian identity. Not only is it worn on special occasions but simplified versions are often worn to work. It is important to note, however, that the costumes differ according to region and for the most part they are based on what the 19th-century Tracht movement considered traditional. It was initiated by Maximilian II, the first Bavarian king to wear Tracht himself.

The many religious and folk festivals in the region are a great way to see traditional costumes and hear Bavarian folk music. One of the most interesting, and evidence of a still-strong rural culture, is the Almabtrieb or Viehscheid (cattle round-up). This is when the cattle are herded down from their alpine pastures to winter quarters in the valley. Depending on local weather conditions it takes place throughout the alpine region between mid September and mid October. Good places to see it include Oberstdorf and Königssee near Berchtesgaden. (For exact dates contact the local tourist offices.)

Festivals like the Bauernwochen (Farmer’s Weeks) in Mittenwald in September are great for an experience of local tradition

Plants and wildlife

In all mountain regions different plant communities grow at different altitudes. A walk from the valley floor to the top of an alpine peak will take you through several vegetation zones: cultivated fields and woodland lower down, shrublands and alpine meadows as you ascend. Due to the extreme climatic conditions the higher alpine regions are only relatively sparsely vegetated. In the Bavarian Alps the Latsche or dwarf pine (Pinus mugo) is the most characteristic plant above the treeline (1700–1900m). Related to the pine (Pinus sylvestris), it grows at altitudes up to 2700m and has the appearance of a bush rather than a tree.

Below 1700m the forests are characterised by conifers such as spruce and fir, but large stands of beech are still found in those areas which have not been over-exploited by the forestry industry. Relatively untouched mountain forests are dominated by a mixture of pine and beech (800–1400m), and in recent years efforts have been made to establish healthier mixed forests (less susceptible to disease and insect pests) by planting more deciduous species along with the quick-growing conifers. In autumn the sycamore and European larch are especially noticeable as their leaves turn to a striking golden-yellow.

Human influence on the local plant communities is most evident on the lower mountain slopes and in the valleys. Fields of wildflowers – that many may think represent a natural, undisturbed environment – in fact result from the grazing of alpine pastures over many centuries. Without this grazing, or the mowing of grass for hay, the mountain pastures would soon be overgrown by weeds and eventually forest would take over. Various species of orchid, gentian and globeflower are just a few of the many that can be seen in the course of a walk through alm pastures. Probably the best known and most characteristic of the flowering plants at higher altitudes (up to 2800m) is the alpenrose with its pink-red flowers. Among the rarest plants found in the region are the famous edelweiss and the beautiful lady’s slipper orchid.

Alpine flowers: (clockwise from top left) stemless gentian, hellebore and alpenrose

The last brown bears were exterminated in the Bavarian Alps in the 19th century and the wolf and lynx fared no better – small populations have managed to survive, however, in a few isolated regions elsewhere in the Alps. In the absence of predators the herbivores have managed to do quite well, although even here a few species have been reintroduced after over-hunting and loss of habitat decimated local populations. Among the larger animals you are most likely to encounter are red deer (in the lower forested regions), chamois and ibex. Large birds such as the capercaillie and black grouse are very rare, while the golden eagle and bearded vulture are still struggling to re-establish themselves after being brought to the verge of extinction.

If the above sounds like a rather depressing litany of ecological disaster it might be a relief to know that the alpine chough is quite common and continues to amuse mountain walkers with its acrobatic flight techniques and the undivided interest it shows in the contents of one’s lunch box. Ptarmigan are found in high alpine regions where their plumage blends in perfectly with the light grey rocks. In winter they turn snow-white (like the snow hare) so it takes a bit of luck, and a keen eye, to see them at any time of the year. Marmots usually leave you in no doubt as to their existence by emitting a shrill warning cry as soon as you approach. In some places they have grown so used to the presence of people that they are content to just stare back at you from the vicinity of their holes. The burrows which these small, furry rodents dig are quite impressive: up to 10m long and 3m deep.

Among the smaller representatives of the animal kingdom worth special mention are two species of salamander. The spotted or fire salamander (Salamandra salamandra) is found at lower altitudes on forested slopes, whereas the black alpine salamander (Salamandra atra) may be found at altitudes of up to 3000m (see also Walk 48). Both species are best observed in the early morning when dew still lies on the ground, or just after it has rained. Less common (in spite of the name) is the common viper or adder (Vipera berus), a poisonous snake which inhabits upland moors. However, as it is very shy you are unlikely to see one.

This brief survey of alpine plant and wildlife is of course by no means complete, and space precludes listing all the colourful butterflies and other insects that you may encounter during a sojourn in the mountains. See Appendix B for some useful book titles.

Getting there

By rail

Many of the base towns in this book can be reached by train, and for those travelling from the UK this can be a very relaxing way of reaching their destination. Using the Eurostar from London’s Waterloo station to Brussels, and onward via German ICE high-speed trains, it would take about 10hr to reach Munich. The overall cost might be higher than flying with a low-cost airline, however.

For more information on tickets visit the Rail Europe website www.raileurope.com. For details on train routes through Germany visit www.bahn.de.

By road

If travelling by car the excellent German motorways (Autobahn) are the quickest way south. From Frankfurt the A3, A7 and A8 take you via Munich from where the western, central and eastern regions of the Bavarian Alps are only a relatively short drive away. From Karlsruhe (near the French border and southeast of Luxemburg) the A8 and A7 provide a speedy connection to the Allgäu Alps. As an example of the distances involved, Dunkirk to Munich is 969km, Munich to Garmisch-Partenkirchen 90km.

Bavaria’s scenic roads make driving a pleasure (Berchtesgadener Land, baroque church Maria Gern in the background)

By air

The closest international airports are Munich (www.munich-airport.de) in Germany, together with those at Salzburg (www.salzburg-airport.com) or Innsbruck (www.innsbruck-airport.com) in Austria. From Munich all destinations in the Bavarian Alps are quickly reached by either train, bus or car. For international travellers the main point of entry into Germany is Frankfurt International Airport (www.frankfurt-airport.com). A railway station at the airport allows comfortable train connections to Bavaria.

Budget flights to Germany

Note that budget airlines come and go, routes change and that even large national carriers offer budget fares that may compare to those of the ‘cheap’ airlines (from the UK and Ireland). Check with your local travel agent or search the Internet for current bargains. For bargain fares from the UK, Ireland, North America and elsewhere in the world, visit (among others) www.cheapflights.co.uk, www.expedia.com, www.travelocity.com and www.statravel.com (for student travel).

Ryanair’s main port of call in Germany is presently Frankfurt-Hahn Airport (www.hahn-airport.de). There are also flights to Salzburg in Austria from Dublin and London Stansted. For more information visit www.ryanair.com.

EasyJet offers flights from London Stansted to Munich (www.easyjet.com). Eurowings (www.eurowings.com) offers flights from Dublin and various UK airports to Munich and Salzburg.

Getting around

Mittenwald is one of the prettiest towns in the Bavarian Alps

All the base towns and mountain groups in this guidebook can be easily reached via bus or train, or a combination of both. The transport system is efficient and reliable and will get you to the smallest village and the start of many routes. The bus system in Oberstdorf is especially well organised, and makes dispensing with the car a real pleasure! The ‘Alex’ trains from here to Munich also provide a comfortable connection for a day in the big city.

Details on transport to the start of a route, or from the end of a track, are given at the start of each route description. However, some routes may begin in town (for example, in Füssen, Mittenwald and Oberammergau). Oberammergau is especially interesting if you are without a car as the starting points of most of the walks described can be reached on foot.

Whether you travel around by car or bus depends on how you want to spend your holiday. Those who want to do a lot of travelling will find a car the most comfortable option. If you are content to stay in one place, or intend to spend a lot of time in mountain huts, then you can probably do without a car.

Information on timetables (Fahrpläne) and discounts for trains and buses can be obtained from the German Federal Railway’s website at www.bahn.de (also in English), and for the local bus network in Oberbayern from www.rvo-bus.de (German). See also the English-language site www.bayern.by for travel discounts.

As discounts on transport services are subject to change, it pays to enquire at the local tourist offices about current offers (or visit one of the above websites). They can also help you with timetables and so forth.

The free Kurkarte or Gästekarte (visitor’s card – see below) that you receive from your host usually allows free or discounted travel on the town and, quite often, regional buses.

Bavaria’s bus network is excellent

Accommodation

Campsites, rustic farmhouses, simple bed and breakfasts or luxury hotels combined with stunning alpine views; the Bavarian Alps offers the whole gamut of possibilities to satisfy the varied budgets of tired mountain walkers seeking shelter for the night. For those who cannot bear to leave the tops, well-equipped mountain huts ensure a measure of comfort, some even with hot showers and double rooms.

All the base towns in this guidebook, along with many other towns along the alpine fringe, are Kurorte (spa or health resorts). All visitors staying in such towns are required to pay a visitor’s tax. This daily surcharge is paid to your host on top of your accommodation costs, and is used to provide and maintain the various amenities offered by the resorts. All guests receive a Kurkarte or Gästekarte (visitor’s card) which entitles them to various reductions on local attractions and free use of town buses.

Local tourist offices (contact details are given at the start of base town descriptions) are the best bet for information on accommodation in a specific area. It is often possible to book accommodation via their websites or by phone. For Bavaria as a whole, try www.tiscover.com. Refer also to the comments under the categories listed below.

Campsites

There are numerous campsites scattered throughout the region. Standards are high and you can usually expect facilities for camper vans (mobile homes) or caravans, an attached restaurant and small shop for daily necessities. The local tourist office in your base town will be able to provide addresses of those in the vicinity. Try also www.eurocampings.co.uk. Note Wild camping is forbidden in Germany.

Youth hostels

German youth hostels (Jugendherberge) are open to anyone holding a current membership card. The German network is affiliated with Youth Hostelling International. For more information and a listing of sites in Bavaria and Germany, visit www.jugendherberge.de or contact DJH Service GmbH, Leonardo-da-Vinci-Weg 1, D-32760 Detmold, Germany. Information is also available from the international site www.hihostels.com.

Bed and breakfast, guesthouses

Known in Germany as Gasthöfe, Gästehäuser, Pensionen or Privatzimmer, the range and quality of the accommodation is as varied as the terminology. The common denominator, however, is that breakfast is usually included in the price of a room.

Generally speaking, a Gasthof or Gasthaus is a small, privately run hotel or inn and is usually more expensive than a Pension or Privatzimmer. The Privatzimmer are always just that: a room in a private home. They are the cheapest alternative and the local tourist offices provide lists on their websites, along with other forms of accommodation. For addresses in Munich and other towns in Germany try www.bed-and-breakfast.de or www.wimdu.co.uk.

Many German B&Bs offer reductions for stays of three days or more; some also offer reductions for children. These usually apply to children up to 12 years of age, but it is best to enquire beforehand. At some establishments there will be a surcharge for a stay of only one night.

Holiday flats

Self-catering holiday flats (Ferienwohnung) are excellent value for those who want to stay in a place for three days or longer; many landlords require a minimum of one week. This is an especially good option for families or if you are travelling in a group. Facilities vary according to price but may include a fully equipped kitchen, a lounge and separate bedrooms. Once again, the websites of local tourist offices are the best place to search for this kind of accommodation. Other websites for holiday flats in Bavaria and elsewhere in Germany include www.novasol.co.uk, www.interhome.co.uk and www.interhomeusa.com.

Holiday flats are often available in beautiful old farmhouses

Hotels and mountain inns

There is a wide range of hotel accommodation within the area. They are usually rated from one to five stars in line with international standards. Especially attractive for hikers are mountain inns, some of which are only accessible by cable car or on foot. These are mentioned (see Appendix C) if they occur on or near a route. Hotels can often be booked directly via the tourist office website of the relevant base town. Other useful websites for hotel reservations and addresses include www.hotel.de, www.hotellerie.de, www.hotelguide.de and www.booking.com.

Mountain huts

Mountain huts often have stunning locations (Rotwand Haus, Walk 44)

Mountain huts belonging to the German (DAV) or Austrian (OeAV) Alpine Clubs are open to everybody, but those who are members of either organisation are entitled to discounts of up to 50 per cent at both DAV and OeAV huts. Accommodation is also available in huts run by other organisations such as the Naturfreunde (Naturefriends) or in some privately run alm huts. These huts have similar requirements to those mentioned below, but please check with the relevant hut beforehand.

Near the start or towards the end of the walking season (June to late October) it is advisable to ring the huts in advance to see if they are open (see Appendix C).

Most Alpine Club (AV) huts provide simple meals and snacks which makes it unnecessary to carry large amounts of food. However, if you are a member it is a good idea to carry teabags or instant coffee and so on as you are entitled to Teewasser (tea-water). This is usually about a litre of hot water and the price is much more modest than that for a Haferl (mug) of tea with which non-members have to content themselves. Those with a thermos can always refill it at the hut. Another ‘privilege’ for members is the Bergsteigeressen (mountaineer’s food), which might include meat, but it is always a simple and normally warm dish. It is somewhat cheaper than the others on the menu, but is not always the best buy. Beer and other alcoholic drinks are also available.

At AV huts you can sleep in either a Matrazenlager or smaller bunkroom. The Matrazenlager is the cheapest and generally consists of a large room with mattresses placed side by side. A pillow and blanket is provided. To get a smaller bunkroom you need to ask for Betten (beds). Pillow, blankets and perhaps a warm eiderdown are provided. As these rooms usually accommodate a maximum of four people they are the better option for a good night’s sleep. Some huts even offer double rooms, the ultimate in luxury! At all AV huts, beds or mattresses may only be used with a Hüttenschlafsack (cloth sleeping bag or bag liner with a pillow envelope) which can be bought at most huts. Please note: if you do not specify Betten or Zimmerlager you will invariably end up in the Matrazenlager.

Most huts have washing facilities, even if that amounts to no more than a basin with cold running water – remember to bring your own towel. Some huts provide hot showers, but you will have to pay extra.

Other requirements: bring sufficient cash (credit/debit cards are seldom accepted) and Hüttenschuhe (slippers with a proper sole) as boots are never permitted in the sleeping areas. A head-lamp and ear-plugs can also be useful. And do not forget to sign the hut book with your name, address and telephone/mobile number. Your tour goal should also be mentioned.

Alpine Club huts are divided into three categories: Cat I – usually at least an hour’s walk away from any mechanised transport (chairlifts and so on). Cat II – can be reached by mechanical means and generally offer better facilities. The huts are usually open all year and not just in summer (as is the case with many Category I huts). Cat III – accessible by car or cable railway, catering mainly for day visitors. Facilities for an overnight stay are usually limited. Bergsteigeressen and Teewasser are not available.

Appendix C lists those huts mentioned in the route descriptions. On the Internet a complete database of AV huts (in German) is available at www.dav-huettensuche.de or www.alpenverein.at/huetten (English).

There is a full listing of NaturFreunde (Naturefriends) huts at the German-language site www.naturfreunde.de. For more information visit the UK website www.thefriendsofnature.org.uk.

The Austrian Alpine Club is affiliated with the German Alpine Club, and its members are entitled to all the privileges mentioned above. Postal address: Unit 43, Glenmore Business Park, Holton Heath, Blackhill Rd, Poole, Dorset BH16 6NL; tel (01929) 556 870, aac.office@aacuk.org.uk, www.aacuk.org.uk.

TRAVELLING WITH A DOG

Coming from the UK you will need to make sure your dog is inoculated against rabies, which is prevalent in many parts of Europe including the Bavarian Alps. Information on other necessary inoculations (and formalities) can be obtained from your veterinarian.

Depending on the discretion of the hut warden or the rules of the alpine section to which the hut belongs, dogs are not usually welcome in mountain huts belonging to the Alpine Clubs. Your best chance will be in those with rooms for two or a Winterlager (winter quarters separate from main hut), but check beforehand. If you come when demand is relatively low (spring or autumn) your chances will increase. Those huts only offering Matrazenlager (large dormitories) do not permit dogs.

You will usually be able to find a place to stay in the valleys, and most establishments charge a small extra daily fee.

With a bit of planning, nothing stands in the way of taking your dog on a walking holiday

In Naturschutzgebiete (nature reserves) or the Nationalpark Berchtesgaden, dogs should be kept on a leash. The same applies to areas where sheep or cows are grazed. Avoid cows with calves; they will react aggressively if they feel their young is threatened. If attacked (rare), drop the leash!

Note that public transport in Austria requires the dog wear a muzzle, as do some large gondola lifts in Germany.

Climate

The climate in the Bavarian Alps is characterised by relatively cool summers (although temperatures can go past 30˚C) with high rainfall and mild winters which usually bring plenty of snow. This is largely due to the influence of the prevailing westerly winds which deposit moist oceanic air masses in the form of clouds on the northern fringes of the Alps. Precipitation in the valleys can be as high as 1500mm per annum and in the alpine regions as high as 2500mm. In other words, waterproof gear is essential.

A guarantee for fine weather, however, is the Föhn (known as Chinook in the American Rockies). This dry, warm wind brings crystal-clear air and blue skies to the mountains when the lowlands to the north are hidden below a thick blanket of cloud. It makes its presence felt especially in autumn, one of the best times to go walking.

Note When walking in the Alps remember that with every 100m of altitude the temperature drops by up to 1°C.

Walking season

The walking season starts in the valleys in April, and with a bit of luck peaks up to 1500m are free of snow by the end of May. The mountain walking season proper begins in June and finishes in September/October. However, the summer months can be hot and afternoon thunderstorms are common. September usually offers cooler, more stable weather and although October is also often pleasant, shorter days and the danger of snow at higher altitudes must be taken into account. Most lifts stop operating by, at the latest, mid October.

Clothing and equipment

When walking in the mountains, always carry wet weather gear and warm clothes as an insurance against sudden changes in the weather. Good walking boots are essential, although trainers are sufficient for some valley walks.

Despite the fact that there are usually huts en route where you can buy refreshments it is nevertheless important to carry some kind of light snack (chocolate, dried fruit, nuts, and so on) and plenty to drink. Small alm huts serving food have irregular hours and are only open for a few months in summer. They may also be closed if the alpine herdsman or shepherd has work elsewhere.

A passport should always be carried where routes run close to or cross national borders. You will probably never be asked to show it, but if you are you’d better have it!

For most walks in this book a small, light inner-frame rucksack is all that is required. For longer tours a narrow inner-frame rucksack with a volume of up to 40 litres should be sufficient. Wide packs with external frames can be very cumbersome, and even dangerous on narrow alpine paths.

Those staying in huts need slippers of some kind as boots are not permitted in the sleeping areas. If staying in a Matrazenlager it is wise to bring ear-plugs. There is always somebody who snores! A light cloth sleeping bag liner is normally required in all AV huts.

As most alpine trails in the Bavarian Alps are usually very well waymarked, many people do not bother with a compass. It is, however, a wise precaution to carry one and to know how to use it in conjunction with a topographical map. Also useful is a GPS device, although as they require batteries it is sensible to carry an ordinary compass as a back-up.

Other useful pieces of equipment are sunglasses, suncream, a hat (the sun’s UV rays should not be underestimated in the mountains), a whistle for emergencies and perhaps gaiters if you are expecting to encounter snow on the trail. A pair of spiked walking poles (known in German as Wanderstöcke and available at any local sports shop) aid balance and help ease the strain on the knees when going downhill. On longer excursions a head torch can be very handy.

Safety in the mountains

The trail above Knorr Hut, near the Zugspitzplatt (Walk 27)

There are mountain rescue (Bergwacht) teams based near all the main resorts in the Bavarian Alps.

 Emergency telephone number: 112

 Weather report: tel 089 295070 (German), or see www.bergfex.com (English)

Mobile phone coverage can be patchy in alpine regions, so do not rely on your mobile phone alone.

Safety checklist

 Inform somebody of your intentions before departure

 Do not walk alone, especially in remote alpine regions

 Check the current weather forecast (your host, hut wardens or the local tourist office can help here)

 Make sure you are properly equipped (see ‘Clothing and equipment’, above)

 Ensure that your abilities match the difficulty of the proposed route. Be prepared to turn back in the event of adverse conditions.

International distress signal

To be used in an emergency only: Six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one minute, followed by a minute’s pause. Repeat until located by a rescuer. Response: three signals per minute followed by a minute’s pause.

Food and drink

Although the locals have a predilection for heavy meat dishes, there are always salads and at least a few other vegetarian meals offered at Bavarian restaurants. Menus are often in English and international standards such as omelette and steak are available. Greek, Asian and especially Italian restaurants and ice-cream parlours are also common.

At a typical Bavarian restaurant you can expect dishes like Schweinshaxe (roasted pork knuckle), pork schnitzel, Knödel (dumplings of various kinds) and Leberkäse (liver meatloaf, but in Bavaria without liver). Weißwurst (boiled white sausage) is customarily only eaten up until noon and is served with sweet mustard (Süßer Senf). A typical beer-garden snack is Obazda, a spiced cheese dish based on camembert. At the huts, cold platters (Brotzeitbrett) with smoked ham, various types of sausage and mountain cheeses are well worth trying. Typical desserts include huge plates of Kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancake) and Germknödel (dumplings filled with plum jam).

Platters of smoked ham and cheese at Wimbachgrieß Hut (Walk 60)

The Oktoberfest in Munich is of world renown but beer can be enjoyed much more cheaply and in a more relaxing way in a local beer garden. Here, lager beer (either dark or pale) can be ordered in a Maß (litre mug) and guests are served by waitresses in Tracht (folk costume). Weizenbier (wheat beer) is also popular and there are various kinds of Starkbier (strong beer). Besides beer, restaurants serve German wine and various types of local schnapps. At both beer gardens and traditional restaurants the meal is often accompanied by live folk music.

Language

German is spoken in Bavaria and Austria, although it is often flavoured by the various local dialects which can make it difficult to understand even for those who are otherwise fluent. However, English is widely spoken and visitors will usually have no trouble finding someone who speaks at least a little English at ticket offices, hotels, restaurants and so forth. The staff at tourist information offices are generally quite fluent and can help with advice on English-speaking doctors, timetables, accommodation and other matters. Nevertheless, a good phrase book will help clarify any communication problems that might arise (see also Appendix E).

Expenses

Holiday costs in the Bavarian Alps are noticeably lower than in other regions in the European Alps, in particular Switzerland. This differential soon becomes obvious in terms of restaurants, shopping and accommodation.

For those on a walking holiday, camping is the cheapest and most flexible form of accommodation. There are plenty of campsites spread along the fringes of the Bavarian Alps, and it is often possible to leave your car at the campsite, and to just pay for your empty tent (leeres Zelt) if you are walking from hut to hut. Pensions or bed and breakfasts are also quite reasonably priced and ideal if you intend to base yourself in an area for several days (most offer discounts for a stay of a week or more) and are not planning to stay in the mountain huts. Every tourist office has a Gästeverzeichnis (accommodation list), and it pays to get hold of a copy.

Using this guide

In this book the Bavarian Alps are divided into six mountain groups, described from west to east. The divisions are more or less in accordance with those stipulated by the Alpine Club (AV).

The routes have been grouped around base towns in order to make planning a walking holiday as easy as possible. A brief portrait of each town has been included to help walkers choose the most suitable place to stay. Apart from the mountain routes, which are described in detail, the authors have also included some shorter valley walks. These walks are generally no longer than 3hr in length and suitable for all ages.

At the start of each route is a box with information to help you plan your route, including the distance, total ascent and descent, grade of difficulty, recommended map, accommodation in huts and so forth. Contact details of the huts are given in Appendix C under the mountain group where the route is located.

Details of transport to the starting point of each route (by bus, cable car and so on) are given, with information on how to return to the start at the end of the day. Where a route starts in the base town and can be reached on foot or by local bus from, say, a nearby village where you may be staying, ‘local bus’ is noted. Parking details are also given.

To aid orientation, places and features shown in bold in route descriptions correspond with those included on the route maps.

The German and Austrian Alpine Clubs have initiated a long-term plan to implement uniform signposting throughout the Eastern Alps. The new signs now indicate the degree of difficulty to be expected along the various mountain trails. A blue dot indicates an easy trail. A red dot indicates a moderately difficult trail and a black dot a difficult trail – here ‘difficult’ means that dangerous passages may occur quite frequently and sections of the track might require some ‘easy’ scrambling. This new grading roughly corresponds to the 1–3 grading in this book and should be taken into account. A fourth category, ‘Alpine Route’, goes beyond the scope of ordinary mountain walkers.

Grading of routes

The following grades are only intended as a rough guide to the difficulty of the individual routes. How hard or difficult a route is for any given person at any given time depends on such variables as the weather, track conditions and personal fitness. None of the walks described requires climbing skills or experience in snow or ice conditions – although snow may sometimes be encountered on the higher routes, especially in early spring or late autumn.

 Grade 1 Clearly waymarked, involve no dangerous passages and suitable for anybody who is reasonably fit.

 Grade 2 Clearly waymarked, but either longer or cross more difficult terrain. This may involve some shorter (moderately) exposed sections requiring greater care. A higher standard of fitness and at least sure-footedness is required.

 Grade 3 Suitable only for those who are fit and have sufficient experience in high alpine regions. Terrain is often more difficult and may involve longer exposed passages which may also be more frequent. A good head for heights is essential and in some (very few) cases, pathfinding ability.

The walking times given are only approximate and do not take into account refreshment stops and so forth. Bad weather or track conditions can also prolong a walk and these factors should always be taken into consideration. As a rough guideline you could add 1–2hr for ‘enjoying the scenery’.

Clear signposting on most routes makes pathfinding easy

GPX tracks

GPX tracks for the routes in this guidebook are available to download free at www.cicerone.co.uk/929/GPX. A GPS device is an excellent aid to navigation, but you should also carry a map and compass and know how to use them.

Maps

The route maps are only intended to serve as an initial means of orientation. They should not be used in place of a proper walking map.

Beautiful baroque churches are a typical feature of the landscape

The relevant maps are listed at the start of each route description to enable walkers to quickly locate the map they need. The maps listed are all to the scale 1:50,000. In researching this guidebook the Kompass maps were used as a basis for describing routes, although it should be possible to follow them using maps from other publishers. All the maps mentioned are readily available at bookshops in Germany or from:

 Edward Stanford Ltd 12–14 Long Acre, London WC2E 9LP www.stanfords.co.uk

 The Map Shop 15 High Street, Upton-upon-Severn, Worcs WR8 OHJ www.themapshop.co.uk

 Mapsworldwide (UK online map shop) www.mapsworldwide.com

 Omni Resources 1004 South Mebane Street, PO Box 2096, Burlington, NC 27216–2096, USA; inquiries@omnimap.com, www.omnimap.com

Apart from the two main series listed below there are also maps produced by smaller, locally based publishers, often in conjunction with local tourist offices. These maps are usually of a high standard and are often available at a scale of 1:25,000.

Kompass-Wanderkarten 1:50,000 (for certain areas also 1:30,000 or 1:25,000). A useful feature of the Kompass series is the fact that the map legend is in both German and English. All the trails are very clearly marked, and the maps frequently updated.

Kompass has also brought out some digital maps that are relevant to the area covered. Particularly useful is Über die Alpen, which covers the entire region described in this guide. The digital maps can be used in conjunction with a GPS device, and with suitable software the maps can be transferred to a smartphone (Android/iOS) or tablet.

Umgebungskarten (UK) Bayern (Area Maps Bavaria) 1:50,000. The Bavarian State Survey Office (Landesamt für Vermessung) puts out excellent maps. The topographical detail exceeds that of the Kompass maps, but there are not as many tracks shown with numbering. Maps published together with the German Alpine Club (Alpenvereinskarte Bayerische Alpen) are available at 1:25,000. For an overview of the areas covered, visit www.ldbv.bayern.de.

In the Hölltobel (Walk 7)

FAST FACTS

Currency Germany belongs to the Euro (€) zone, as does most of Central Europe including Austria. €1 = 100 cents.

Formalities Members of EU countries with either a valid passport or national identity card do not require a visa to enter Germany. Citizens of the USA, Canada, Republic of Ireland, New Zealand and Australia do not require a visa for stays of up to three months. South African nationals do require a visa.

Language German or dialects of German are spoken in Bavaria and Austria. English is widely spoken.

Health No special health precautions are necessary for travel in Germany. UK residents are covered by reciprocal health schemes while in the country – although Brexit might cause changes. In order to receive coverage a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) is required, available via your local post office. For more information visit www.nhs.uk. Not all expenses are covered by these schemes and so it is wise to take out extra insurance in case of accidents.

International dialling code The international dialling code for calls to Germany from abroad is 0049 and to Austria 0043. When dialling the UK from Germany the code is 0044, then drop the first zero of the following area code. Most public phones in Germany are card-operated. Telephone cards (Telefonkarten) can be bought at post offices, newspaper kiosks and some bookshops.

Location The Bavarian Alps are located in Germany along the border with Austria. More specifically they are situated in Oberbayern (Upper Bavaria), the southernmost region of the state of Bavaria. The Allgäu, at the western extreme of the region, is treated as a separate entity. From the Bavarian capital, Munich, all destinations are quickly reached.