Читать книгу Frommer’s EasyGuide to the Grand Canyon & Northern Arizona - Gregory McNamee - Страница 5

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The Grand Canyon & Northern Arizona

The Grand Canyon—the name is at once both apt and inadequate. How can words sum up the grandeur of 2 billion years of the earth’s history sliced open by the power of a single river? Once an impassable barrier to explorers and settlers, the Grand Canyon today is a magnet attracting millions of visitors from all over the world. The pastel layers of rock weaving through the canyon’s rugged ramparts, the interplay of shadows and light, the wind in the pines, California condors soaring overhead—these sights and sounds never fail to transfix hordes of visitors gazing awestruck into the canyon’s seemingly infinite depths.

While the Grand Canyon is undeniably the most awe-inspiring natural attraction in the state, northern Arizona contains other worthwhile (and less crowded) attractions. Only 60 miles south of the great chasm stand the San Francisco Peaks, ancient volcanoes sacred to the Hopi and Navajo as the home of spirits that bring rain to the parched desert below. Amid expansive ponderosa pine forests stands the city of Flagstaff, one of the highest cities in the U.S., with its well-preserved downtown historic district.

The Grand Canyon South Rim

60 miles N of Williams; 80 miles NE of Flagstaff; 230 miles N of Phoenix; 340 miles N of Tucson

A trip to the Grand Canyon is an unforgettable experience, whether you spend days hiking deep in the canyon, ride the roller-coaster rapids of the Colorado River, or merely stand on the rim peering down in amazement. A mile deep, 277 miles long, and up to 18 miles wide, the canyon is absolutely overwhelming in its grandeur, truly one of the great natural wonders of the world. Clarence Dutton, a 19th-century geologist who published one of the earliest studies of Grand Canyon geology and who named many of its features, held it in such reverence that he named land formations for the gods and sages of the ancient world: Solomon, Apollo, Venus, Thor, Zoroaster, Horus, Buddha, Vishnu, Krishna, Shiva, Confucius.

Something of this reverence infects nearly every first-time visitor. Nothing in the approach to the Grand Canyon prepares you for what awaits. You hardly notice the gradual elevation gain or the subtle change from windswept sagebrush scrubland to juniper woodlands to ponderosa pine forest. Suddenly, it’s there. No preliminaries, no warnings. Stark, quiet, a maze of cathedrals and castles sculpted by nature.

Layers of sandstone, limestone, shale, and schist give the canyon its colors, and from dawn to dusk, the interplay of shadows and light creates an ever-changing palette of hues and textures. In this landscape layer cake of stone, we can read 2 billion years of geologic history.

In the more recent past, the Grand Canyon has been home to several Native American cultures, including the Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi), best known for their cliff dwellings in the Four Corners region (see chapter 7). About 150 years after 13th-century Ancestral Puebloans and Coconino peoples abandoned the canyon, nomadic people from the west moved into the area. Today, the Hualapai and Havasupai tribes, descendants of the ancient Patayan people, still live in and near the Grand Canyon on the south side of the Colorado River.

Creating the Grand Canyon

Some geologists believe the erosive action of the Colorado River carved the Grand Canyon in a 17-million-year span; others think it took much less time. Either way, it’s clear that the canyon has a complex geologic history—it’s written all over the landscape.

The story of the Grand Canyon begins eons ago, when vast seas covered this region. Sediments carried by seawater were deposited and, over millions of years, those sediments were turned into limestone and sandstone. According to the most widely accepted theory, the Colorado River began its work of cutting through the plateau when the ancient seabed was thrust upward to form the Kaibab Plateau. Today, 21 sedimentary layers, the oldest of which is more than a billion years old, can be seen in the canyon. Beneath all these layers, at the very bottom, is a stratum of rock so old that it has metamorphosed, under great pressure and heat, from soft shale to a much harder stone. Called Vishnu Schist, this layer is the oldest rock in the Grand Canyon, dating from 2 billion years ago.

In 1540, Spanish explorer Garcia Lopez de Cárdenas became the first European to set eyes on the Grand Canyon, but it would be another 329 years before the first expedition traveled through the entire canyon. John Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War veteran, was deemed crazy when he set off to navigate the Colorado River in wooden boats. His small band of men spent 98 days traveling 1,000 miles down the Green and Colorado rivers. So difficult was the endeavor that when some of the expedition’s boats were wrecked by powerful rapids, part of the group abandoned the journey and set out on foot, never to be seen again.

Miners, ranchers, loggers, and farmers followed, but they soon found that the Grand Canyon was worth more as a landmark than as land to be worked. The Grand Canyon has become one of the most-visited natural wonders on the planet. By raft, by mule, on foot, and in helicopters and small planes—approximately four million people each year come to gaze into this great chasm.

In the recent past, however, there were those who regarded the canyon as mere wasted space, suitable only for filling with water. Upstream of the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River stands Glen Canyon Dam, which forms Lake Powell (p. 323); downstream lies Lake Mead (p. 478), created by Hoover Dam. The Grand Canyon might have suffered the same fate, but luckily the forces for preservation prevailed. Today, the Grand Canyon is the last major undammed stretch of the Colorado River.

The Colorado—named by early Spanish explorers for the reddish-brown color of its muddy waters—once carried immense loads of silt, much of which now gets deposited on the bottom of Lake Powell. As a result, the water in the Grand Canyon is much clearer (and colder) than it once was. Today, only when rainstorms and snowmelt feed the side canyons of the Grand Canyon does the river still flow murky and red from heavy loads of eroding sandstone.

While the waters of the Colorado are usually clearer than before, the same cannot be said for the air in the canyon. Yes, you’ll find smog here, smog that has been blamed on both Las Vegas and Los Angeles to the west and a coal-fired power plant to the east, near Page. Scrubbers have been installed on the power plant’s smokestacks, but there isn’t much to be done about smog drifting from the west.

Far more visible and frustrating is the traffic congestion at the South Rim during the spring-to-fall busy season. Some five million people visit the park each year, and South Rim traffic in summer has become almost as bad as it is during rush hour in any major city. Finding a parking space can be the biggest challenge of a visit to Grand Canyon National Park. But don’t let these inconveniences dissuade you. Despite the crowds, the Grand Canyon more than lives up to its name. It’s simply one of the most memorable sights on planet Earth.

Essentials

Arriving

In summer you can expect at least a 20- to 30-minute wait at the South Rim entrance gate just to get into the park. If at all possible, travel to the park by some means other than car. Alternatives include taking the Grand Canyon Railway from Williams, flying into Grand Canyon Airport and then taking a taxi, taking the Arizona Shuttle from Flagstaff, or joining a guided tour to the park. You can walk to plenty of scenic overlooks, hiking trails, restaurants, and lodges in the Grand Canyon Village area, and free shuttle buses operate along both Hermit Road and Desert View Drive.

Over eons, the Colorado River carved through layers of richly colored stone to create the ever-changing spectacle called the Grand Canyon.

By Car The South Rim of the Grand Canyon is 60 miles north of Williams (and I-40) via Ariz. 64 and U.S. 180. Flagstaff, the nearest city of any size, is 80 miles southeast. From Flagstaff, you can take either U.S. 180 directly to the South Rim or U.S. 89 to Ariz. 64 and the park’s east entrance (the second route has much less traffic). Be sure you have plenty of gasoline in your car before setting out for the canyon; there are few service stations in this remote part of the state, and what gas stations there are charge exorbitant prices. There are no gas stations in the national park itself. You’ll find service stations outside the park’s south entrance in Tusayan, at Desert View near the east entrance (no cash sales in winter), and east of the park at Cameron.

Extended waits at the entrance gates, parking problems, and traffic congestion have long been the norm at the canyon during the popular summer months, and even in spring and fall there can be backups at the gates and limited parking space. However, extra ticketing lanes and additional parking lots built in recent years have somewhat alleviated the congestion at the south entrance.

By Plane The closest airport with commercial service is in Flagstaff (p. 257). From there, you’ll need to arrange other transportation the rest of the way to the national park. At the Grand Canyon Airport in Tusayan, 6 miles south of Grand Canyon Village, the only regularly scheduled flights are day-tours from Las Vegas on Scenic Airlines (www.scenic.com; 800/634-6801), Grand Canyon Airlines (www.grandcanyonairlines.com; 866/235-9422 or 702/835-8484), and Maverick Airlines (www.maverickairlines.com; 800/962-3869 or 702/405-4300). Tours of an hour or two cost $140–$160, while longer ones can last from 6½ to 8 hours and cost up to $400.

By Train The Grand Canyon Railway (p. 240) operates excursion trains between Williams and the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.

For long-distance connections, Amtrak (www.amtrak.com; 800/872-7245) provides service to Flagstaff and Williams. From Flagstaff, bus service goes directly to Grand Canyon Village. From Williams, you can transfer to the Grand Canyon Railway excursion train. Note: The Amtrak stop in Williams is on the outskirts of town—from there, you’ll need to catch a shuttle to the Grand Canyon Railway.

By Bus Arizona Shuttle (www.arizonashuttle.com; 877/226-8060 or 928/226-8060) buses connect Phoenix, Sedona, and Williams with Flagstaff, where passengers can board shuttles to Grand Canyon Village. One-way adult fares to Flagstaff are $49 from Phoenix, $45 from Sedona, $24 from Williams; the fare from Flagstaff on to the Grand Canyon is $34.

Visitor Information

You can get advance information on the Grand Canyon by contacting Grand Canyon National Park (www.nps.gov/grca).

When you arrive at the park, stop by the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, 4½ miles from the south entrance. Here you’ll find an information desk, exhibits, a theater, and a shop selling maps, books, and videos. The center is open daily 8am to 6pm (9am–5pm in winter). Within Grand Canyon Village, Verkamp’s Visitor Center, near the El Tovar Hotel, is an even more convenient place to get park information; it’s open daily 8am to 8pm in summer (until 6pm other months). Displays here focus on the history of development in Grand Canyon Village. Both South Rim entrances hand out a South Rim pocket map and services guides as you enter the park.

Tip: Parks Passes Save Time

You can cut your waiting time at the park entrances by acquiring an America the Beautiful National Parks Pass before arriving. The standard pass costs $80 and is good for 1 year. Given the price, this pass is a good value only if you plan to visit several other major national parks or lots of smaller parks and monuments. The America the Beautiful Senior Pass ($20, or $80 for a lifetime pass) and Access Pass (free of charge) are, on the other hand, exceptional bargains. With any of the three America the Beautiful passes in hand, you can use the express lane. See p. 517 for info.

Fees

The entry fee for Grand Canyon National Park is $35 per car (or $20 per person if coming in on foot or by bicycle). Your admission ticket is good for 7 days. Don’t lose it, or you’ll have to pay again to reenter the park.

Orientation: Grand Canyon Village

The South Rim’s Grand Canyon Village is divided roughly into two sections. At the east end are the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, Yavapai Lodge, Trailer Village, and Mather Campground. At the west end are El Tovar Hotel and Bright Angel, Kachina, Thunderbird, and Maswik lodges; as well as several restaurants, the train depot, and the trail head for the Bright Angel Trail.

Parking

Three large parking lots adjacent to the information plaza are the best places to leave your car; you can easily access the park’s free shuttle buses from here. There’s also a lot at Market Plaza (the general store), up a side road near Yavapai Lodge. From these parking areas, a paved walking trail leads to the historic section of the village in less than 1.5 miles; most of the route runs right along the rim. You can also park at the Maswik Transportation Center lot. Wherever you park in Grand Canyon Village, you can catch the Village Route bus to the visitor center and other parts of the village. If you park at Yaki Point, you can take the Kaibab Trail Route bus.

Getting Around

If possible, use one of these transportation options to avoid South Rim traffic jams and parking problems.

By Bus Free shuttle buses operate on three routes within the park. The Village (Blue) Route bus circles through Grand Canyon Village throughout the day, with frequent stops at the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, hotels, campgrounds, restaurants, Market Plaza (site of a general store, bank, laundry, and showers), and other facilities. The Hermit Road (Red) Route bus takes visitors to eight canyon overlooks west of Bright Angel Lodge (this bus does not operate December–February). The Kaibab Rim (Orange) Route bus stops at the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, Mather Point, Yavapai Geology Museum, Pipe Creek Vista, the South Kaibab trail head, and Yaki Point. An early-morning Hikers’ Express bus to the South Kaibab trail head runs from Bright Angel Lodge, with stops at the Back Country Information Office and the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, to the trail head; it operates 4am to 6am in summer, but as late as 7am to 9am in winter (for the full schedule, see park website). From March through September, the Tusayan (Purple) Route operates between the town of Tusayan, outside the park, and Grand Canyon Village, inside the park. To use this shuttle, you must have a valid park entrance pass.

Between mid-May and mid-October, Trans Canyon (www.trans-canyonshuttle.com; 928/638-2820) offers shuttle-bus service between the South Rim and the North Rim. The vans leave the South Rim at 8am and 1:30pm and arrive at the North Rim at 1:30pm and 6pm. The return trip leaves the North Rim at 7am and 2pm, arriving at the South Rim at 11:30am and 6:30pm. The fare is $90 each way; reservations are required.

By Taxi Taxi service is available to and from Grand Canyon Airport, trail heads, and other destinations ( 928/638-2631, ext. 6563). The fare from the airport to Grand Canyon Village is $10 for up to two adults, $5 for each additional person.

Festivals & Special Events

The Grand Canyon Music Festival (www.grandcanyonmusicfest.org; 800/997-8285 or 928/638-9215), which primarily features chamber music and musicals, takes place in late August and early September. Performances ($15 adults, $10 children) are held indoors at the Shrine of the Ages in Grand Canyon Village. Season tickets for all six performances ($90) are available online.

The Grand Canyon

Accessibility Check The Guide for park programs, services, and facilities that are partially or fully accessible. You can also get the Grand Canyon National Park Accessibility Guide at park visitor centers or on the park website. You can pick up an accessibility parking permit at park entrances, visitor centers, and transportation desks. The national park has wheelchairs available at no charge for temporary use inside the park; inquire at the Grand Canyon Visitor Center. All park shuttle buses are wheelchair-accessible. Accessible tours can be arranged at any lodge transportation desk or by calling Grand Canyon National Park Lodges ( 928/638-2631).

ATMs There’s an ATM at the Chase bank ( 928/638-2437) at Market Plaza, near Yavapai Lodge.

Hospitals & Clinics The North Country Grand Canyon Clinic ( 928/638-2551) is on Clinic Dr., off Center Rd. (the road that runs past the National Park Service ranger office). The clinic is open daily 8am–6pm (shorter hours Oct–May). It provides 24-hour emergency service as well.

Laundry A coin-operated laundry is located near Mather Campground in the Camper Services building.

Lost & Found Report lost items or turn in found items at the Grand Canyon Visitor Center; 928/638-7798. For items lost or found at a hotel, restaurant, or lounge, call 928/638-2631.

Police In an emergency, dial 911. Ticketing speeders is one of the main occupations of the park’s police force, so obey posted speed limits.

Post Office The post office ( 928/638-2512) is at Market Plaza near Yavapai Lodge. It’s open Monday through Friday 9am–3:30pm.

Road Conditions For information on road conditions in the Grand Canyon area, call 888/411-7623 or 511.

Safety The most important safety tip to remember is to be careful near the edge of the canyon. Footing can be unstable and may give way. Keep your distance from wild animals, no matter how friendly they may appear. Avoid hiking alone if at all possible, and keep in mind that the canyon rim is more than a mile above sea level (it’s harder to breathe up here). Do not leave valuables in your car or tent.

Wi-Fi & Internet Access Wi-Fi access is limited in the park. Free Wi-Fi is available at the Visitor Center 8am–5pm, with some computers available for public use; at the Canyon Village Market Deli 8am–6pm; and at the Community Library 11:30am–5pm Monday through Saturday.

What to Expect Weather-Wise

The climate at the Grand Canyon is dramatically different from that of Phoenix; there’s even a pronounced difference between the rim and the canyon floor. The South Rim’s altitude is 7,000 feet, and it gets very cold in winter—you can expect snow anytime between November and May, and winter temperatures can be below 0°F (–18°C) at night, with daytime highs in the 20s or 30s (minus single digits to single digits Celsius). Summer temperatures at the rim range from highs in the 80s (20s Celsius) to lows in the 50s (teens Celsius). The North Rim of the canyon is 1,200 to 1,400 feet higher than the South Rim, and it’s much cooler throughout the year; in fact, it’s not open to visitors November through April, because the access road is not kept cleared of snow in winter.

On the canyon floor, temperatures are considerably higher. In summer, the mercury can reach 120°F (49°C) with lows in the 70s (20s Celsius), while in winter, temperatures are quite pleasant with highs in the 50s (teens Celsius) and lows in the 30s (single digits Celsius). July, August, and September are the wettest months because of frequent afternoon thunderstorms. April, May, and June are the driest months, but it still might rain or even snow. Down on the canyon floor, there is much less rain year-round.

Exploring the South Rim

Grand Canyon Village & Vicinity

Grand Canyon Village is the first stop for the vast majority of the more than five million people who visit the Grand Canyon every year. It’s by far the most crowded area in the park, but it also has the most visitor services, overlooks, and historic buildings. As you enter the park through the south entrance, your first unforgettable gasp-inducing glimpse of the canyon is usually at Mather Point, down a short paved path from the Grand Canyon Visitor Center.

Continuing west toward the village proper, you next come to Yavapai Point, which has the best view in the Grand Canyon Village vicinity. (If you can bring yourself to drive past Mather Point and delay your initial glimpse for a few minutes, Yavapai Point actually makes a better first view of the canyon, although parking spaces here are limited.) From Yavapai you can see the Bright Angel Trail, Indian Gardens, Phantom Ranch, the Colorado River, and even the suspension bridge that hikers and mule riders use to cross the river to Phantom Ranch. This is the only bridge across the Colorado for 340 miles, between Hoover Dam downstream and the Navajo Bridge upstream near Lees Ferry. At Yavapai you’ll also find the historic Yavapai Museum of Geology (open daily 8am–8pm in summer, shorter hours other months), which has big glass walls to take in the extraordinary vistas. Don’t miss the geology displays here; they’re the park’s best introduction to the forces that created the Grand Canyon. Yavapai Point is a particularly good spot for sunrise and sunset photos. From here, the paved Grand Canyon Greenway extends 3.5 miles east to the South Kaibab trail head and 3 miles west through Grand Canyon Village.

Leave the Driving to Them

We think it’s a mistake to give just 1 day to the park. But if that’s all you have, and you’re coming from Flagstaff, you might be better served by taking a tour. That way, someone else will drive, so that you can enjoy the views. Canyon Dave offers knowledgeable geology-focused tours of the South Rim and East Rim (www.grand-canyon-tours-1.com; 877/845-3283). Tours begin at $149.

Continuing west from Yavapai Point, you’ll come to Grand Canyon Village proper, with its parking lots and park headquarters (a side road leads to the Market Plaza). The paved pathway along the rim here provides lots of good (though crowded) spots for taking pictures. Step inside the historic El Tovar Hotel and Bright Angel Lodge to take in the wilderness-lodge ambience of their lobbies. Inside Bright Angel Lodge, the Bright Angel History Room has displays on architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, who is responsible for much of the park’s historic architecture, and the Harvey Girls (see box, p. 291). Notice this room’s fireplace—it’s designed to replicate all the geologic layers that appear in the canyon. Adjacent to El Tovar, the Hopi House, an historic souvenir-and-curio shop resembling a Hopi pueblo, was built in 1905 as a place for Hopi artisans to work and sell their crafts; this was the first shop inside the park. Today, it’s full of Native American arts and crafts, including expensive kachina dolls, rugs, jewelry, and pottery. This shop is open daily; hours vary seasonally.

To the west of Bright Angel Lodge, two buildings cling precariously to the rim of the canyon. These are the Kolb and Lookout studios, both of which are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Kolb Studio is named for Ellsworth and Emory Kolb, two brothers who set up a photographic studio here on the rim in 1904. The construction of this studio generated one of the Grand Canyon’s first controversies—over whether buildings should be allowed on the canyon rim. The Kolbs had friends in high places, however, and their sprawling studio and movie theater remained. Emory Kolb lived here until his death in 1976. It now serves as a bookstore, while the auditorium houses special exhibits. Lookout Studio, built in 1914 from a design by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, was the Fred Harvey Company’s answer to the Kolb brothers’ studio. Note how it incorporates architectural styles of the Hopi and the Ancestral Puebloans, using native limestone and an uneven roofline to blend in with the canyon walls. It now houses a souvenir store and two lookout points. Both the Kolb and Lookout studios are open daily; hours vary seasonally.

Hermit Road

Leading 8 miles west from Grand Canyon Village to Hermit’s Rest, Hermit Road has, mile for mile, the greatest concentration of breathtaking viewpoints in the park. Closed to private vehicles March through November, it’s one of the most pleasant places for canyon viewing or easy hiking during the busiest times of year: no traffic jams, no parking problems, and plenty of free shuttle buses along the route. Westbound Red buses stop at eight overlooks (Trailview, Maricopa Point, Powell Point, Hopi Point, Mohave Point, the Abyss, Pima Point, and Hermit’s Rest); eastbound buses stop at only Pima, Mohave, and Powell points. December through February, you can drive your own vehicle here, but keep in mind that winters usually mean ice and snow; the road is sometimes closed due to hazardous driving conditions.

You probably won’t want to stop at every viewpoint, so here are some tips to maximize your excursion. First: The earlier you catch a shuttle bus, the more likely you’ll avoid crowds (buses start 1 hour before sunrise, so photographers can get good shots of the canyon in dawn light). Second: The closer you are to Grand Canyon Village, the larger the crowds will be. It’s best to head out early and get a couple of miles between you and the village before getting off the shuttle bus.

Return of the Condor

With wingspans approaching 10 feet and weighing as much as 25 pounds, California condors are the largest flying land birds in North America (both mute and trumpeter swans are heavier). In the 1980s, there were only 22 California condors left in the wild; the last few condors were captured and a captive-breeding program was launched in hopes of bringing the species back from the brink of extinction.

Between 1924 and 1996, if you had seen a California condor in Arizona, you would most likely have been in a zoo; none of these giant birds still lived free in a state where once they had been plentiful. In 1996, however, six captive-raised condors were released atop the Vermilion Cliffs (north of Grand Canyon National Park). Since then, between 6 and 10 birds have been released annually, and there are now more than 50 condors flying free over northern Arizona. In 2003, for the first time in more than a century, a pair of condors hatched and raised a chick, and since then, several more condor pairs have successfully raised offspring.

Condors are curious birds, and they are often attracted to human activity. Consequently, they are often seen in or near Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim. Look closely at their wings: if there’s a large number on the wing, it’s a captive-raised condor, but if there isn’t, it’s one of the handful of birds hatched in the wild in recent years.

One of the best places to spot condors is en route to the North Rim on House Rock Valley Rd., north of U.S. 98A between Lees Ferry and Jacob Lake. A few miles up this road, you’ll find interpretive plaques and a viewpoint from which you can see the condor release site, high atop the cliffs to the east. There’s also a small population in the West Canyon that sometimes fly out onto the grasslands near Grand Canyon Caverns (p. 281). For more information on the condor-release program, visit the Peregrine Fund website (www.peregrinefund.org), which is the organization that administers the program.

The first two stops are Trailview Overlook and Maricopa Point, both on the paved section of the Rim Trail, within 1½ miles of the village. If you just want a short, easy walk on pavement, get out at Maricopa Point and walk back to the village. From either overlook, you can see Bright Angel Trail winding down into the canyon from Grand Canyon Village. As the trail heads for the bottom of the canyon, it crosses the Tonto Plateau, about 3,000 feet below the rim. This is the site of Indian Garden, where there’s a campground in a grove of cottonwood trees. The views from these two overlooks are not significantly different from those in the village, so if you’ve already had a look from that vantage point, you can safely skip them.

Powell Point, the third stop, is the site of a memorial to John Wesley Powell, who, in 1869 with a party of nine men, became the first person to navigate the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. There’s a spectacular view here of Point Imperial and other North Rim landmarks. Also visible at Powell Point are the fenced-off remains of the Orphan Mine, a copper mine that began operation in 1893. For a while it went out of business (it was too expensive to transport the copper to a city to sell it), though it re-opened after uranium was discovered in 1951. The mine was shut down in 1969; the area is still closed for ongoing testing for residual contamination.

The next stop, Hopi Point, is one of the three best stops along this route. From here you can see a long section of the Colorado River far, far below, looking like a tiny, quiet stream; in reality the section you see is more than 100 yards wide and races through Granite Rapids. Hopi Point juts into the canyon, making it one of the best spots in the park for sunrise and sunset photos (shuttle buses run from 1 hour before sunrise to 1 hour after sunset).

The view is even more spectacular at the next stop, Mohave Point. Here you can see the river in two directions. Three rapids are visible; on a quiet day, you can sometimes even hear Hermit Rapids. Like almost all rapids in the Canyon, Hermit Rapids are at the mouth of a side canyon where boulders, loosened by storms and tumbled along flooded streams, get piled up. Don’t miss this stop; it’s got the best view on Hermit Road.

Next you come to the Abyss, the aptly named 3,000-foot drop created by the Great Mojave Wall. This vertiginous view is one of the park’s most dramatic. The Abyss’ walls are red sandstone, which resists erosion more than the soft shale does in the layer below. You can also see some free-standing sandstone pillars (the largest of them is called the Monument). For a good road hike, get out here and walk westward to either Pima Point (3 miles) or Hermit’s Rest (4 miles).

The Pima Point overlook, set back from the road, is another good place to get off the bus. From here, the Greenway Trail leads through the forest near the canyon rim, providing good views undisturbed by Hermit Road traffic. From Pima Point, you can see the remains of Hermit Camp, which the Santa Fe Railroad built down on the Tonto Plateau. Open from 1911 to 1930, this was developed as a luxury destination, where guests slept in canvas-sided cabins, an early version of today’s “glamping.”

The final stop on Hermit Road is Hermit’s Rest, named for Louis Boucher, a prospector who came to the canyon in the 1890s and was known as the Hermit. Built in 1914 as a stagecoach stop, the log-and-stone Hermit’s Rest building, designed by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, is on the National Register of Historic Places; it’s one of the most fascinating structures in the park. There’s a snack bar here, making it a great place to linger while you soak up a bit of park history. The steep Hermit Trail, which leads down into the canyon, begins just past Hermit’s Rest.

Pack a Lunch

Lunch options are limited inside Grand Canyon National Park, so if you are driving up from Flagstaff, either pack a picnic lunch or stop at someplace in Flagstaff like the Aspen Deli (20 N. Beaver St.; 928/556-8629) or Wildflower Bread Company (530 Piccadilly Dr #10; 928/233-5010) for sandwiches to bring along. The newish Whole Foods outlet (320 S. Cambridge Lane; 928/774-5747) is a good place to snag picnic supplies. Your time is better spent studying the innards of the Earth at some magnificent rimtop vista than waiting in line for a burger and tater tots.

Desert View Drive

While the vast majority of visitors to the Grand Canyon enter through the south entrance and head straight for crowded, congested Grand Canyon Village, you can have a much more enjoyable experience if you take the east entrance instead. From Flagstaff, take U.S. 89 north to Ariz. 64 in Cameron (be sure to stop at the Cameron Trading Post, p. 243) and then head west. Following this route, you’ll get great canyon views sooner—even before you enter the park, you can stop at viewpoints on the Navajo Reservation for vistas of the canyon of the Little Colorado River. At every stop you can also shop for Native American crafts and souvenirs at numerous vendors’ stalls.

Desert View Drive, the park’s only scenic road open to cars year-round, extends for 25 miles between Desert View, just inside the park’s east entrance, and Grand Canyon Village. Along Desert View Drive, you’ll find not only good viewpoints, but also several picnic areas. Much of this drive is through forests, and canyon views are limited; but where there are viewpoints, they are among the best and least crowded in the park.

Desert View is the first stop on this scenic drive, and with its historic watchtower, general store, snack bar, service station, information center, bookstore, and big parking lot, it is better designed for handling large numbers of tourists than Grand Canyon Village. There’s never a wait here, unlike at the south entrance to the park. From anywhere at Desert View, the scenery is breathtaking, but the very best perspective here is from atop the Desert View Watchtower. Although the watchtower looks as though it was built centuries ago, it actually dates from 1932, designed by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter to resemble the prehistoric towers that dot the southwestern landscape. Built as an observation tower and tourist rest stop, the watchtower incorporates Native American designs. The curio shop on the ground floor is a replica of a kiva (sacred ceremonial chamber); the second floor features work by Hopi artist Fred Kabotie and carvings by another Hopi artist, Chester Dennis, with pictographs on the walls that incorporate traditional designs; and the upper two floors’ walls and ceiling feature images by artist Fred Geary, reproductions of petroglyphs from throughout the Southwest. From the roof—at 7,522 feet above sea level, it’s the highest point on the South Rim—you can see the Colorado River, the Painted Desert to the northeast, the San Francisco Peaks to the south, and Marble Canyon to the north. Several black-mirror “reflectoscopes” provide interesting darkened views of some of the most spectacular sections of the canyon.

Native American art decorates the interior of the Desert View Watchtower, designed by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter.

A few minutes’ drive west, at Navajo Point, the Colorado River and Escalante Butte are both visible; there’s also a good view of the Desert View Watchtower. Lipan Point , the next stop, offers the South Rim’s best views of the Colorado River. You can see several stretches of the river from here, including a couple of major rapids. You can also view the Grand Canyon supergroup: several strata of rock tilted at an angle to the other layers of rock in the canyon, indicating an earlier period of mountain building. Its red, white, and black rocks, composed of sedimentary rock and layers of lava, pre-date the canyon’s main layers of sandstone, limestone, and shale. One of the park’s best-kept secrets, a little-known though very rugged trail, begins here at Lipan Point (p. 237).

The next stop along Desert View Drive is the small Tusayan Museum (daily 9am–5pm), dedicated to the Hopi tribe and the Ancestral Puebloan people who inhabited the region 800 years ago. Outside the museum, there are ruins of an Ancestral Puebloan village, and inside the museum, artfully displayed exhibits explain various aspects of life in the village. A short self-guided trail leads through the ruins. Free guided tours are available.

Next along the drive is Moran Point, where you can see a layer of red shale in the canyon walls and the ancient Vishnu Schist formation at the bottom. This point is named for 19th-century landscape painter Thomas Moran, known for his Grand Canyon works.

The next stop, Grandview Point, affords a view of Horseshoe Mesa, another interesting feature of the canyon landscape. In the early 1890s, the mesa was the site of the Last Chance Copper Mine; later that same decade, the Grandview Hotel was built here and served canyon visitors until it closed in 1908. The steep, unmaintained Grandview Trail, which leads down to Horseshoe Mesa, makes a good less-traveled alternative to the South Kaibab Trail, although it is considerably more challenging.

The last stop along Desert View Drive is Yaki Point. It’s not open to private vehicles—the park service would prefer you park your car in Grand Canyon Village and take the Kaibab Trail Route (Orange) shuttle bus from the Grand Canyon Visitor Center to Yaki Point. The reality is that people passing by in cars want to see what this viewpoint is all about, and now park their cars along the main road and walk up the Yaki Point access road. The spectacular view from here encompasses a wide section of the central canyon. The large, flat-topped butte to the northeast is Wotan’s Throne, one of the canyon’s most recognizable features. You’ll see a lot of hikers at Yaki Point, since it’s also the trail head for the South Kaibab Trail, the preferred downhill hiking route to Phantom Ranch. It’s a more scenic route than the Bright Angel Trail—if you’re planning a day hike into the canyon, this should be your number-one choice. Be sure to bring plenty of water.

Hiking the Grand Canyon

No visit to the canyon is complete without journeying below the rim on one of the park’s hiking trails. While the views don’t necessarily get any better than they are from the top, they do change considerably. Gazing up at all those thousands of feet of vertical rock walls provides a very different perspective from that atop the rim. Below the rim, you may also see fossils, old mines, petroglyphs, wildflowers, and wildlife. The one thing you won’t find on the park’s main hiking trails is solitude.

That said, there is no better way to see the canyon than on foot (my apologies to the mules). If you’re in good physical condition and have strong legs and knees, you can simply head down the Bright Angel or South Kaibab trail. Keep in mind, though, that these are the two busiest trails, with hundreds of hikers per day. If you want to see fewer other hikers and are in good shape, consider the Grandview Trail or the Hermit Trail instead. If you just want an easy, relatively level walk, take the Rim Trail/Greenway Trail.

Hiking Precautions

The Grand Canyon offers some of the most rugged and strenuous hiking in the United States; anyone attempting even a short walk should be well prepared. Each year, injuries and fatalities are suffered by day hikers who set out without sturdy footgear, or without food and adequate amounts of water. Even a 30-minute hike in summer can dehydrate you, and a long hike in the heat can require drinking more than a gallon of water.

If you go for a day hike in the summer, carry and drink at least 2 quarts of water and a couple quarts of Gatorade or other electrolyte-supplement drink. And do not even think about hiking from the rim to the Colorado River and back in the same day. Although a few very fit individuals have managed this grueling feat, there are also plenty who have tried and died. Finally, remember that mules have the right of way.

Day Hikes

Hikers tend to gravitate to loop trails, but here on the South Rim, there are no such trails—all hikes are out-and-back. The good news is that the vastly different scenery in every direction makes the route back look entirely different from the route out. The bad news is that most of these out-and-back trails are the reverse of what you usually find: Instead of starting out by toiling up a steep mountain, gravity assists you in hiking down into the canyon. There are few natural turnarounds, and it’s easy to hike farther than you realize, only to face an arduous slog coming back, when you’re already tired. Here’s a rule of thumb: Expect to take 2 hours climbing back for every hour spent going down. Know your limits and turn around before you become tired.

For an easy, flat hike, your main option is the Rim Trail , which stretches for 13 miles from the South Kaibab trail head east of Grand Canyon Village to Hermit’s Rest, 8 miles west of the village. Most of this trail is paved; the portion that passes through Grand Canyon Village is always the most crowded stretch of trail in the park. From Powell Point west, it becomes a dirt path for about 3 miles; most of this stretch follows Hermit Road, which means you’ll have traffic noise (although only from shuttle buses for most of the year). The last 2.8 miles is part of the paved Greenway Trail. To avoid crowds and get the most enjoyment out of a Rim Trail hike, head out as early in the morning as you can, taking the shuttle to the Abyss. From here it’s a 4-mile hike to Hermit’s Rest; for more than half of this distance, the trail isn’t as close to the road as it is around Grand Canyon Village. Hermit’s Rest makes a great place to rest, and from here you can catch a shuttle back to the village. Alternatively, take the shuttle all the way to Hermit’s Rest and then hike east, catching a shuttle back whenever you start to feel tired.

The Bright Angel Trail , which starts just west of Bright Angel Lodge in Grand Canyon Village, is the most popular trail into the canyon, mostly because it starts right where the greatest number of park visitors tend to congregate (near the ice-cream parlor and the hotels). It’s also the route traditionally used for mule rides into the canyon. Bear in mind that this trail follows a narrow side canyon for several miles, and thus has somewhat limited views. On the other hand, it’s the only maintained South Rim trail into the canyon that has potable water, and it has some good turnaround points. 1½ Mile Resthouse (1,131 ft. below the rim) and 3 Mile Resthouse (2,112 ft. below the rim) have water except in winter, when the water is turned off. These rest houses are named for their distance from the rim; if you hike to 3 Mile Resthouse, you will have a 3-mile hike back up. Destinations for longer day hikes include Indian Garden (9 miles round-trip) and Plateau Point (12 miles round-trip), which are both slightly more than 3,000 feet below the rim. There is year-round water at Indian Garden.

Beginning near Yaki Point, east of Grand Canyon Village, the South Kaibab Trail is the preferred route down to Phantom Ranch. This trail offers the best views of any of the trails into the canyon; if you have time for only one day hike, make it the South Kaibab Trail. From the trail head, it’s 3 miles round-trip to Cedar Ridge and 6 miles round-trip to Skeleton Point. The hike is strenuous, and there’s no water available along the trail.

If you’re an experienced mountain or desert hiker with good, sturdy boots, consider the unmaintained Hermit Trail , which begins at Hermit’s Rest, 8 miles west of Grand Canyon Village at the end of Hermit Road. It’s a 5-mile round-trip hike to Santa Maria Spring (the trail plunges 1,600–1,700 ft. in the first 1.5 miles) and a 7-mile round-trip hike to Dripping Springs. Water from these two springs must be treated with a water filter, iodine, or purification tablets, or by boiled for at least 10 minutes, so you’re better off just carrying sufficient water for your hike. Beyond Santa Maria Spring, the Hermit Trail descends to the Colorado River, a 17-mile hike from the trail head. Note that Hermit Road is closed to private vehicles March through November; during these months, you’ll need to take the shuttle bus to the trail head. If you take the first bus of the day, you’ll likely have the trail almost all to yourself.

The Grandview Trail , which begins at Grandview Point 12 miles east of Grand Canyon Village, is another steep, unmaintained trail that’s only for the most physically fit hikers. A strenuous 6-mile round-trip hike leads to Horseshoe Mesa, 2,600 feet below the trail head. No water is available, so carry at least a gallon. Just to give you an idea of how steep this trail is, you’ll lose more than 2,000 feet of elevation in the first .8 mile down to Coconino Saddle.

Even more challenging is the Tanner Trail , which starts just downhill from the parking lot at Lipan Point, near the east end of Desert View Drive. It’s so rarely used that the National Park Service doesn’t even mark it on the maps it hands out to park visitors (probably for good reason—the park service doesn’t want to have to rescue folks who might collapse from dehydration hiking back up). Once a trail used by horse thieves to move stolen horses between Utah and Arizona, it’s one of the shortest, steepest, and most challenging trails into the canyon. Passing through the hottest part of the canyon, it’s exposed to the sun most of the day; the trail is badly eroded, with a loose, slippery gravel section along the Redwall Limestone formation, raising the imminent risk of a serious, potentially deadly fall. You must be in excellent shape, with good knees and strong quadriceps, and don’t even think of setting foot on this trail unless you’re wearing very sturdy boots with excellent ankle support. Take lots of water and drink it. How far can you hike on this trail? Well, that’s up to you. It’s 3 miles and a 1,700-foot elevation drop to Escalante Butte, where there’s a good view of Marble Canyon, Hance Rapids, and the bottom of the canyon.

Backpacking

Backpacking the Grand Canyon is an unforgettable experience. Although most people simply hike down to Phantom Ranch and back, there are many miles of trails deep in the canyon. Keep in mind, however, that to backpack the canyon, you’ll need to do a lot of planning. A Backcountry Use Permit is required of all hikers planning to overnight in the canyon, unless you’ll be staying at Phantom Ranch in a cabin or dormitory. Only a limited number of overnight hikers are allowed into the canyon on any given day, so it’s important to make permit requests as soon as possible. You can submit permit requests in person, by mail, or by fax. Contact the Backcountry Information Center, Grand Canyon National Park, P.O. Box 129, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023 (www.nps.gov/grca; 928/638-7875 for information Monday–Friday 1–5pm MST; fax 928/638-2125). The office accepts written permit requests 5 months ahead, starting the first of every month. In person, verbal permit requests can be made only 4 months in advance. Holiday periods are the most popular—if you want to hike over the Labor Day weekend, be sure to make your reservation on May 1. If you show up without a hiking permit, go to the Backcountry Information Center adjacent to Maswik Lodge (daily 8am–noon and 1–5pm) and put your name on the waiting list. When applying for a permit, you must specify your exact itinerary, and once in the canyon you must stick to that itinerary. Backpacking fees include a nonrefundable $10 backcountry permit fee and a $8 per-person per-night backcountry camping fee, on top of the park entry fee you’ll pay when you arrive at the Grand Canyon.

There are campgrounds at Indian Garden, Bright Angel Campground (near Phantom Ranch), and Cottonwood; hikers are limited to 2 nights per trip at each of these campgrounds (except November 15–February 28, when 4 nights are allowed at each campground). Other nights can be spent camping at undesignated sites in certain regions of the park.

Maps are available through the Grand Canyon Association (www.grandcanyon.org; 800/858-2808 or 928/638-2481) and at bookstores and gift shops within the national park.

The best times of year to backpack are spring and fall. In summer, temperatures at the bottom of the canyon are frequently above 100°F (38°C), while in winter, ice and snow at higher elevations make footing on trails precarious (crampons are recommended). Plan to carry at least 2 quarts, preferably 1 gallon, of water whenever backpacking in the canyon.

The Grand Canyon is a rugged, unforgiving landscape, and many people might prefer to backpack with a professional guide. To arrange a guided backpacking trip into the canyon, contact Discovery Treks (www.discoverytreks.com; 480/247-9266), which offers 3- to 5-day all-inclusive hikes with rates starting at $975 per person.

Organized Tours & Excursions

Bus Tours

Rather leave the driving to someone else so you can enjoy the scenery? Opt for a bus or van tour of the Grand Canyon with Xanterra South Rim (www.grandcanyonlodges.com; 888/297-2757, 303/297-2757 outside the U.S., 928/638-2631 for same-day reservations). To book these, call the numbers listed, or stop by the transportation desks at Bright Angel, Maswik, or Yavapai lodges in Grand Canyon Village. You’ll pay $27.50 for a 1½-hour sunrise or sunset tour, $36 for a Hermit’s Rest tour, $65 for a Desert View tour, or $80 for a combination of any two tours.

Excursions into the canyon’s depths on muleback are very popular—make reservations months in advance.

Trail Rides by Mule & Horse

Mule rides into the canyon have been popular since the beginning of the 20th century, when the Bright Angel Trail was a toll road. After looking at the steep drop-offs and narrow path of the Bright Angel Trail, you might decide this isn’t exactly the place to trust your life to a mule. Never fear: Wranglers will quickly reassure that you they haven’t lost a rider yet. Three-hour mule rides meander along the Rim through the forest to eventually arrive at the Abyss, a spectacular viewpoint along Hermit Road. Overnight mule trips go all the way down to the canyon floor at Phantom Ranch, where cabins and dormitories are available. From November to March, a 2-night Phantom Ranch trip is offered; other times of year, you’ll ride down one day and back up the next. Mule trips range from $143 for the 3-hour ride, to $600 for an overnight ride, to $863 for the 2-night ride. Couples get discounts on overnight rides. Riders must be at least 9 years old; weigh less than 200 pounds fully dressed; be at least 4 feet, 7 inches tall; and speak and understand English fluently. Pregnant women are not allowed. Especially in summer, these rides often book up 6 months or more in advance (you can make reservations up to 13 months ahead). For more information or to make a reservation, contact Xanterra Parks & Resorts (www.grandcanyonlodges.com; 888/297-2757 or 303/297-2757). For last-minute bookings (up to 5 days ahead of your desired date), contact Xanterra South Rim at its Arizona phone number ( 928/638-2631) on the remote chance that there’s space available. If you arrive at the canyon without a reservation, stop by the Bright Angel Transportation Desk and put your name on the next day’s waiting list. Hey, you never know.

For more casual horseback riding outside of the Canyon, head to Apache Stables (www.apachestables.com; 928/638-2891), located outside the park a mile north of Tusayan on Moqui Drive. A 1-hour ride costs $52.50, a 2-hour ride is $92.50. There are also wagon rides and campfire rides (be sure to bring something to cook over the fire). The stables are closed in winter.

The Grand Canyon Railway

In the early 20th century, most visitors to the Grand Canyon arrived by train, and it’s still possible to travel to the canyon along the steel rails. The Grand Canyon Railway (www.thetrain.com; 800/843-8724 or 303/843-8724) runs from Williams to Grand Canyon Village, using either diesel engines or, occasionally, early-20th-century steam engines (they now run on waste vegetable oil). Trains depart from the Williams Depot, housed in the historic 1908 Fray Marcos Hotel, which also has a railroad museum, gift shop, and cafe. (Grand Canyon Railway also operates the adjacent Grand Canyon Railway Hotel.) At Grand Canyon Village, trains stop at the 1910 log railway terminal in front of El Tovar Hotel.

There are four classes of service to choose from: coach, first class, observation dome (upstairs in the dome car), and luxury parlor class. Actors posing as cowboys provide entertainment aboard the train. It’s 8-hours round-trip, including a 3¼- to 3¾-hour layover at the canyon. Round-trip fares (not including tax or the national park entrance fee) range from $67 to $219 for adults, $25.50 to $120 for children 2 to 12.

Not only is this a fun, scenic trip, it also avoids the traffic congestion and parking problems in Grand Canyon Village. When booking your train trip, you can also book a bus tour in the park, which will help you make the most of your limited time on the Rim. Or, if you want, book a room/train package so you can stay overnight in the park.

Tip for families: In November, December, and January, the railway runs a Polar Express service to “the North Pole,” complete with a visit from Santa.

Interpretive Programs

Any number of interpretive programs are scheduled throughout the year at various South Rim locations. Ranger-led walks explore different aspects of the canyon, from nature hikes to fossil trips to guided tours of the Tusayan Ruin; rangers also give geology talks, lecture on the cultural and natural resources of the canyon, and hold stargazing gatherings. Many programs are held at Mather Point Amphitheater and the Shrine of the Ages. Consult your copy of The Guide for information on times and meeting points.

A Bird’s-Eye View

Despite controversies over noise and safety (there have been a few crashes over the years), airplane and helicopter flights over the Grand Canyon remain one of the most popular ways to see this natural wonder. If you want to join the crowds buzzing above the canyon, you’ll find several companies operating out of Grand Canyon Airport in Tusayan. Air tours last anywhere from 30 minutes to about 2 hours. Companies offering tours by small plane include Air Grand Canyon (www.airgrandcanyon.com; 800/247-4726 or 928/638-2686) and Grand Canyon Airlines (www.grandcanyonairlines.com; 866/235-9422 or 928/638-2359), which has been offering air tours since 1927. Fifty-minute plane flights cost $108 to $159. Helicopter tours are available from Maverick Helicopters (www.maverickhelicopter.com; 888/261-4414 or 702/261-0007), Grand Canyon Helicopters (www.grandcanyonhelicoptersaz.com; 855/326-9617 or 702/835-8477), and Papillon Grand Canyon Helicopters (www.papillon.com; 888/635-7272 or 702/736-7243). Helicopter rates range from $149 to $209 for a 25- to 40-minute flight and $299 for a 45- to 55-minute flight. Children sometimes receive a discount (usually around $20).

The Grand Canyon Field Institute

If you’re the active type or want more of an educational experience, consider a trip with the Grand Canyon Field Institute (www.grandcanyon.org/classes-tours; 866/471-4435 or 928/638-2485). Co-sponsored by Grand Canyon National Park and the Grand Canyon Association, the Field Institute schedules a wide variety of guided educational trips, such as challenging backpacking trips through the canyon (some for women only) and programs lasting anywhere from a day to more than a week. Subjects covered include wilderness studies, geology, natural history, human history, photography, and art.

Jeep Tours

To explore parts of Grand Canyon National Park that most visitors never see, contact Grand Canyon Jeep Tours & Safaris (www.grandcanyonjeeptours.com; 800/320-5337 or 928/638-5337), which offers three different tours visiting the park and the adjacent Kaibab National Forest. Prices range from $79 to $95 for adults and $69 to $80 for children.

Rafting the Colorado River

Ever since John Wesley Powell proved it was possible to travel by boat down the tumultuous Colorado, running the big river has beckoned adventurers. Today, anyone from grade-schoolers to grandmothers can join the ranks of those who’ve made the run. However, be prepared for some of the most furious white water in the world.

Numerous companies offer trips through various sections of the canyon. You can spend as little as half a day on the Colorado (downstream from Glen Canyon Dam; p. 325) or more than 2 weeks. You can go down the river in a huge motorized rubber raft (the quickest and noisiest way to see the entire canyon), a paddle- or oar-powered raft (more thrills and, if you have to help paddle, more of a workout), or a wooden dory (the biggest thrill of all). In a motorized raft, you can travel from Lees Ferry to Lake Mead in 8 days; if you opt for a dory or an oar- or paddle-powered raft, expect to spend 5 to 6 days getting from Lees Ferry to Phantom Ranch, or 7 to 9 days from Phantom Ranch to Diamond Creek, just above Lake Mead. You can also hike in or out of Phantom Ranch for a combination rafting-and-hiking adventure. Aside from the half-day trips near Glen Canyon Dam, any Grand Canyon rafting trip will involve lots of monster rapids.

Most trips start from Lees Ferry near Page and Lake Powell. The main rafting season is April through October, but some companies operate year-round. Rafting trips tend to book up more than a year in advance; some companies begin taking reservations as early as January for the following year’s trips. A few rafting trips charge as little as $250 per day, but most fall in the $300 to $350 per day range; rates depend on the length of the trip and the type of boat used.

The following companies are well established in guiding visitors down the Colorado River to the Grand Canyon:

Arizona Raft Adventures, 4050 E. Huntington Rd., Flagstaff (www.azraft.com; 800/786-7238 or 928/526-8200); 6- to 16-day motor, oar, and paddle trips. Although this is not one of the larger companies operating on the river, it offers lots of different trips, including some focusing on natural history and others that double as yoga workshops. They also do trips in paddle rafts that allow you to help navigate and provide the power while shooting the canyon’s rapids.

Canyoneers, P.O. Box 2997, Flagstaff (www.canyoneers.com; 800/525-0924 or 928/526-0924); 3- to 10-day motorized-raft trips and 6- to 14-day oar-powered trips. Way back in 1938, this was the first company to take paying customers down the Colorado, and Canyoneers is still one of the top companies on the river.

Grand Canyon Expeditions Company, P.O. Box O, Kanab, Utah (www.gcex.com; 800/544-2691 or 435/644-2691); 8- and 9-day motorized trips and 14- and 16-day dory trips. If you’ve got the time, these dory trips are a fine homage to John Wesley Powell’s expedition 150 years ago; they’re among the most thrilling adventures in the world.

Grand Canyon Whitewater, 1000 N. Humphreys St. Suite 202, Flagstaff (www.grandcanyonwhitewater.com; 800/343-3121 or 928/779-2979); 4- to 8-day motorized-raft trips and 5- to 13-day oar trips.

Hatch River Expeditions, 5348 E. Burris Lane, Flagstaff (www.hatchriverexpeditions.com; 800/856-8966 or 928/526-4700); 4- to 8-day motorized trips and 6-, 7-, and 12-day oar trips. All of this company’s trips, except their upper-canyon expedition, end with a helicopter flight out of the canyon. In business since 1929, Hatch River claims to be the oldest commercial rafting company in the U.S. With so much experience, you can count on Hatch to provide a great trip.

Outdoors Unlimited, 6900 Townsend Winona Rd., Flagstaff (www.outdoorsunlimited.com; 800/637-7238); 5- to 15-day oar and paddle trips. This company has been taking people through the canyon for more than 40 years and usually sends them home very happy.

Wilderness River Adventures, P.O. Box 717, Page (www.riveradventures.com; 800/992-8022); 3- to 8-day motorized-raft trips and 5- to 14-day oar trips. The 4-day trips (actually 3½ days) involve hiking out from Phantom Ranch. This is one of the bigger companies operating on the canyon, offering a wide variety of trips—it’s a good place to start if you’re not sure what type of trip you want to do.

For information on 1-day rafting trips at the west end of the Grand Canyon, see p. 280. For information on half-day trips near Page, see p. 330.

Attractions Outside the Canyon

In Tusayan, outside the south entrance to the park, the National Geographic Visitor Center, 450 Ariz. 64 (www.explorethecanyon.com; 928/638-2468) shows a 34-minute IMAX film covering the history and geology of the canyon throughout the day on a six-story screen. Admission is $13.59, $12.50 seniors and military, and $10.33 for children. March to October, there are shows daily 8:30am to 8:30pm; November to February, shows are daily between 10:30am and 6:30pm. The visitor center also has interactive exhibits and a cafe.