Читать книгу Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics - Группа авторов - Страница 4

1 Chapter 1Figure 1.1 Structure of the MQ resin used to enhance formulation adhesion [2].Figure 1.2 Commercially available examples of long-wear lipsticks.Figure 1.3 (a) The anatomical landmarks of the lips [15] (b) Histological sectio...Figure 1.4 Keratin assembly in the different layers of keratinized vs. non-kerat...Figure 1.5 Lip roughness score [40].Figure 1.6 Wear assay results indicating satisfactory (left) and unsatisfactory ...Figure 1.7 Lipstick stretch test results indicating no cracking (left) and sever...Figure 1.8 DSC profiles of lipstick formulation samples A-D [61].Figure 1.9 Comparison of 3 lipsticks demonstrating high formulation transfer (A)...

2 Chapter 2Figure 2.1 Order of crystallization and melting temperatures (T_c and T_m) of natu...Figure 2.2 Dependence of melting enthalpy on esters component for natural waxes ...Figure 2.3 DSC thermogram of an oil-wax gel system.Figure 2.4 Lipstick sample preparation for SEM investigation.Figure 2.5 Hardness of lipstick structure (containing 15% PE wax) as a function ...Figure 2.6 DSC thermograms of 15% PE wax in low viscosity (LV) HPIB and high vis...Figure 2.7 Effect of oil viscosity on the initial crystallization temperature Tc...Figure 2.8 Effect of HPIB oil viscosity on the relative crystallinity X_c during ...Figure 2.9 Effect of HPIB oil viscosity on the melting peak temperature Tm of 15...Figure 2.10 Effect of the % relative crystallinity X_c (from wax melting) on the ...Figure 2.11 SEM micrographs of PE wax-oil lipsticks at fixed 15% PE wax in hydro...Figure 2.12 Effect of oil relative permittivity on the hardness of wax-oil lipst...Figure 2.13 DSC thermograms of 15% PE wax in polar oils (esters) during (a) cool...Figure 2.14 Effect of relative permittivity (polarity) on the relative crystalli...Figure 2.15 Effect of relative permittivity (polarity) on the wax melting peak T...Figure 2.16 Effect of oil viscosity on the melting temperature Tm of PE wax crys...Figure 2.17 Effect of oil viscosity on the hardness of lipstick structure contai...Figure 2.18 Effect of the relative crystallinity X_c (%) obtained from crystal me...Figure 2.19 SEM micrographs of PE wax-oil lipsticks at fixed 15% PE wax in ester...Figure 2.20 Effect of PE wax amount on hardness of the HPIB-wax system (HPIB vis...Figure 2.21 Effect of PE wax amount on the (a) cooling and (b) heating curves of...Figure 2.22 Effect of PE wax amount on the melting temperature Tm in HPIB oil wi...Figure 2.23 Effect of PE wax amount in selective viscosity oils on the hardness ...Figure 2.24 Effect of the thickness of deposit on lipstick hardness on Bioskin.Figure 2.25 Effect of oil polarity and oil viscosity on sensorial perception (S+...

3 Chapter 3Figure 3.1 Free radical polymerization: photoinitiators absorb light energy that...Figure 3.2 Photoinitiation: UV light hits the 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-1-phenyl-propan...Figure 3.3 Electromagnetic spectrum. UV-C (shortwave) starts at 254 nm, UV-B (mi...Figure 3.4 Absorption/transmission spectrum of rutile ((TiO₂)) that is important...Figure 3.5 Emission spectrum of gallium-doped (Phillips-60 W TL03) low-wattage l...Figure 3.6 Absorption curves for photoinitiators used. a=Benzoinether absorbs in...Figure 3.7 UV through-cure of various rutile ((TiO₂)) formulations; Pendulum Har...Figure 3.8 Depth of penetration by ambient oxygen in a UV cure coating. This oxy...Figure 3.9 Gallium-doped low-wattage long wavelength fluorescent bulb (GA-FL).Figure 3.10 UV Cure Light Emitting Diode (LED) nail gel Unit.Figure 3.11 Chain termination of the free radical initiator (see PI in Figure 3....Figure 3.12 High throughput primary screening results based on the evaluation of...Figure 3.13 Chemical structures of methacrylates and acrylates that could be con...Figure 3.14 BAPO (bis-acylphosphine oxide) as a two-photon photo-bleachable PI. ...Figure 3.15 Pigment selection. The through-cure window is important for UV nail ...Figure 3.16 Typical UV Curable Polyurethane Dispersion Synthesis [12].Figure 3.17 Elastic modulus (E)and (%) elongation at break (ɛ_B) values for the c...Figure 3.18 Correlation of gel fraction data (after 72 hours of soak-off) of the...Figure 3.19 UV nail gel construction: Human nail, UV nail gel base coat which is...

4 Chapter 4Figure 4.1 Anatomy of nail polish: Typical polymer additives like nitrocellulose...Figure 4.2 Optimal rheological response of nail polish formulations. (a) Shear r...Figure 4.3 Schematic for Dripping-onto-Substrate (DoS) rheometry. The set-up inv...Figure 4.4 Nail polishes with different brands and colors. (a) OPI Infinite Shin...Figure 4.5 Apparent shear viscosity as a function of shear rate for different co...Figure 4.6 Flow curves for CND nail polishes. A fixed time of 10 s is used betwe...Figure 4.7 Shear viscosity vs. shear rate for Essie Nail Polishes. Shearing time...Figure 4.8 Apparent shear viscosity as a function of shear stress, and shear str...Figure 4.9 Visualizing volume entrained by brush loading and patterns formed dur...Figure 4.10 Image sequences showing application of nail paint onto a fingernail ...Figure 4.11 Image sequences showing application of nail paint onto a fingernail ...Figure 4.12 Tack test of nail lacquers. (a) Stress as a function of strain at co...Figure 4.13 Dripping, following brush loading via withdrawl of brush at a consta...Figure 4.14 Characterization of capillary-driven and pinching dynamics of nail l...Figure 4.15 Extensional rheology characterization of nail lacquers using DoS rhe...Figure 4.16 Radius evolution and neck shapes obtained using DoS rheometry protoc...Figure 4.17 Radius evolution data for Essie and CND nail lacquer formulations. (...Figure 4.18 (a) Shear rate ranges associated with diverse processes that nail po...

5 Chapter 5Figure 5.1 (a) Skin structure, and (b) schematic of outermost layer stratum corn...Figure 5.2 Different MQ resin structures. (a) M₄Q (M:Q = 4:1), (b) M₆Q₂ (M:Q = 3...Figure 5.3 The model presented by Wengrovius et al. [69] postulating the molecul...Figure 5.4 MQ resin dispersed in thermoplastic PDMS/polyamide copolymer. Adapted...Figure 5.5 Schematic structure of (a) Bisethylhydroxycyclohexyl Methacrylate Dim...Figure 5.6 (a) Molecular structure of Bis-Carboxydecyl Dimethicone, (b) Hypothes...

6 Chapter 6Figure 6.1 Diagram illustrating the model structure of the lipid layer of 18-MEA...Figure 6.2 Left. Example forces measured between two bleached hair fibers in 1mM...

7 Chapter 7Figure 7.1 Hair architecture (a) and cuticle lamellar structure (b).Figure 7.2 Schematic of a typical AFM instrument (redrawn after [12]).Figure 7.3 Two possible usages of AFM for investigating surfaces.Figure 7.4 Surface of a keratin fibre (human hair) imaged with AFM (a) and with ...Figure 7.5 Schematic showing an idealised force versus distance curve. Regions A...Figure 7.6 Longitudinal AFM imaging. (a) 20 µm by 40 µm tapping mode image of a ...Figure 7.7 Striations observed with AFM on the surface of human hair [43].Figure 7.8 Micropores on hair surface (picture kindly provided by Roger McMullen...Figure 7.9 Lateral force image obtained with AFM [47]. The image is created by s...Figure 7.10 Friction coefficients corresponding to various substructures of the ...Figure 7.11 Experimental set-up for examining hair-to-hair interaction (redrawn ...Figure 7.12 AFM images of Brown Caucasian hair before and after bleaching (topog...

8 Chapter 8Figure 8.1 AFM elastic modulus maps for the all tested formulations on hair and ...Figure 8.2 Mean elastic moduli derived from the hair and glass slide elastic mod...Figure 8.3 Ratio of the measured elastic modulus of the formulation-treated hair...Figure 8.4 Selected AFM topography and elastic modulus maps. Number of “Shp.” re...Figure 8.5 Average elastic modulus for each tested hair sample type with the err...Figure 8.6 Collected enhanced topography, elastic modulus, and adhesion force im...Figure 8.7 Root mean square (RMS) surface roughness, elastic modulus, and adhesi...Figure 8.8 Acquired enhanced topography and elastic modulus images of formulatio...Figure 8.9 Average elastic modulus and adhesion force as well as root-mean-squar...Figure 8.10 Topography and non-contact mode (NCM) phase images of the various co...

9 Chapter 9Figure 9.1 Interaction between the incoming primary ion and immediate vicinity o...Figure 9.2 Illustration of two depth resolution parameters.Figure 9.3 TOF-SIMS depth-profile of a dried aqueous system with a surfactant on...Figure 9.4 TOF-SIMS depth-profile of a dried aqueous system without a surfactant...Figure 9.5 TOF-SIMS depth-profile of a dried non-aqueous system without a surfac...Figure 9.6 TOF-SIMS depth-profile of a dried thin film deposited on a polystyren...Figure 9.7 TOF-SIMS depth-profile of a dried thin film deposited on a polystyren...Figure 9.8 Analysis of lastingness of the crosslinked two-layer Si-X material ag...

10 Chapter 10Figure 10.1 Main facial cosmetic treatments.Figure 10.2 Evaluation scheme for the interfacial compatibility between peel and...Figure 10.3 Contact angles on a rubber plate of (a) acacia honey, (b) rice syrup...Figure 10.4 Relationship between CA and WVP with increasing concentration of MMT...Figure 10.5 GC/FID spectrum of a sample of lavander oil (Adapted from [18]).Figure 10.6 Typical acne inflammation.Figure 10.7 Face skin edema.Figure 10.8 Facial eczema (a) and psoriasis (b).Figure 10.9 Contact angles for some modified clays where (a) Contact angle image...Figure 10.10 Contact angle results for zwitterionic, nonionic and anionic surfac...Figure 10.11 Characterization of the surface free energy (SFE: mJ/m²) of face ma...Figure 10.12 Proposed experimental method for (a) characterization of the surfac...Figure 10.13 Proposed experimental method for (a) characterization of the surfac...Figure 10.14 Scheme of mascara preparation method proposed by Atis et al. [30].Figure 10.15 TGA analysis of a sample of mascara with degradation temperatrures ...Figure 10.16 Proposed experimental method for (a) characterization of the surfac...Figure 10.17 Proposed experimental procedure for optimization of the production ...Figure 10.18 Proposed experimental approach for (a) determination of the apparen...Figure 10.19 Determination of the quality of lipstick layers, indicated with S1 ...Figure 10.20 Proposed experimental approach for (a) characterization of the surf...Figure 10.21 Tocopherol (T) and tocopherol acetate (TA) peaks using Agilent RP–C...Figure 10.22 Typical liquid chromatography/tandem mass spectrometry (LC–MS/MS) c...Figure 10.23 Characterization of oleuropein by High Performance Thin-Layer Chrom...Figure 10.24 Contact angles of non-ionic surfactants on glass and Teflon solid s...Figure 10.25 Correlation degrees between Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) an...Figure 10.26 Correlation degrees between Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) an...

11 Chapter 11Figure 11.1 Instability of a thick liquid film on a fiber surface. P_D is the dis...Figure 11.2 An axially symmetric unduloid of a liquid (hexadecane, Θ = 0°) on a ...Figure 11.3 Quadrant profile of the droplet from Figure 11.2. Droplet informatio...Figure 11.4 Clamshell type of unduloids formed on a fiber by a poorly wetting li...Figure 11.5 Hexadecane droplets (1µl) on stainless steel wires of (top-bottom) 5...Figure 11.6 Schematic diagram of the PC-based imaging system.Figure 11.7 (a) Liquid film on a synthetic fiber that undergoes Rayleigh instabi...Figure 11.8 Holding spray on one hair with a load of 1 g showing two droplets co...Figure 11.9 Spray on two parallel hairs with a load of 10 g showing droplet coal...Figure 11.10 Spray on two crossing hairs at a low (a) and 90° (b) angle with a l...Figure 11.11 Spray on three crossing hairs with a load of 10 g. Fibers remain fi...Figure 11.12 Holding spray on a bleached hair. Load = 10 g. We can see droplet c...Figure 11.13 Holding spray on two bleached hair fibers running parallel to each ...Figure 11.14 Holding spray on two bleached hair fibers crossing at an 8° angle. ...Figure 11.15 Holding spray on two bleached hair fibers crossing at a 35° angle. ...Figure 11.16 Shine spray on a bleached hair. Load = 20 g. The surface free energ...

12 Chapter 12Figure 12.1 Contact angle of water droplet on polyester application substrate. A...Figure 12.2 Example of foundation transfer on white fabric (Left) and correspond...Figure 12.3 (Top) Mean water contact angle values for polyester substrate and fo...Figure 12.4 Mean water contact angle values for bio skin substrate and foundatio...Figure 12.5 (Top) Transfer values for foundations films on polyester substrate w...Figure 12.6 (Top) Transfer values for foundations films on polyester substrate w...Figure 12.7 Comparison of the effect of transfer medium on transfer of the four ...Figure 12.8 Transfer values for foundations films on bio skin substrate with art...Figure 12.9 Transfer values for foundations films on bio skin substrate with art...Figure 12.10 Comparison of the effect of medium on the transfer of foundation pr...Figure 12.11 Analysis of shade effect (light and dark shade) for FD1 and FD3 on ...Figure 12.12 Foundation swatches applied to forearm. Image taken after transfer ...Figure 12.13 In vivo transfer values after 4 hr. wear period.Figure 12.14 Comparison for application to polyester substrate with sweat and se...

13 Chapter 13Figure 13.1 Typical Scanning Electron Microscopy images of a dyed hair fiber nea...Figure 13.2 (a) Schematic representation of the capillary fiber. (b) Schematic r...Figure 13.3 FT-IR spectra for black hair fibers after oxidation with H₂O₂ for di...Figure 13.4 Loss of lipid layer during damaging process of hair surface.Figure 13.5 AFM images of the standard white hair: (a) virgin fiber and the corr...Figure 13.6 Denaturation temperature of natural and oxidized black hair. N0 and ...Figure 13.7 ζ-Potential of SDS-polyquaternium 6 (PDAC) mixtures as a function of...Figure 13.8 Binding isotherms for surfactants on Polyquaternium 6 as a function ...Figure 13.9 SLES concentration dependence of μe for Polyquaternium 6 – SLMT mixt...Figure 13.10 Schematic representation of the phase diagram of an arbitrary polye...Figure 13.11 Schematic representation of the aggregation of polyelectrolyte-surf...Figure 13.12 Dependences of the thickness and adsorbed amount on the surfactant ...Figure 13.13 AFM images and their corresponding height profiles for Polyquaterni...Figure 13.14 (a) Acoustical thickness dependence on the dilution factor for the ...Figure 13.15 Illustration of the computational strategy. (a) The adsorption syst...Figure 13.16 Aggregation numbers of the surfactant g_p (left ordinate) and polym...Figure 13.17 Radial volume fraction profiles for PQ₆-surfactant composite system...Figure 13.18 Left: Binding isotherms for PQ₆-mRL(C₁₀ and C₁₄) as PQ₆ amount is i...Figure 13.19 Ratio of adsorbed amount of surfactants and polymers for (a) PQ₆-AP...Figure 13.20 Volume fraction profiles of PQ6 and, inset, surfactants for the dif...Figure 13.21 Average height 〈H〉 of each species in the deposits and for all bina...

14 Chapter 14Figure 14.1 Chromatogram for the molecular weight distribution of NAD – 1.Figure 14.2 Particle size distribution for NAD – 1.Figure 14.3 DMA Thermal scan showing storage modulus E’, loss modulus E’’ and da...Figure 14.4 Tan(δ) as function of temperature for the 3 non-aqueous dispersions.Figure 14.5 Tensile stress as a function of elongation for 3 NADs of poly(acryla...Figure 14.6 TEM images of particle deposition on EM grids from NAD – 3 sample. M...Figure 14.7 TEM image of NAD - 3 particles. Automatic thresholding of particle c...Figure 14.8 TEM images of NAD – 2 sample without acrylic acid at two magnificati...Figure 14.9 TEM images of NAD – 1 sample (without acrylic acid) at two magnifica...Figure 14.10 Top: 5 µm × 5 µm surface topography images acquired with atomic for...Figure 14.11 Top: 5 µm × 5 µm surface elastic modulus images acquired with atomi...Figure 14.12 Top: 5 µm × 5 µm surface adhesion force images acquired with atomic...Figure 14.13 Water Contact Angles of NAD films at 10 s (left) and 120 s (right).Figure 14.14 Contact angles of artificial sebum droplets on 3 NAD films deposite...Figure 14.15 (a) Evaluation of olive oil (left) and water (right) resistances on...Figure 14.16 In-vivo evaluation of formulations containing NAD - 1 and NAD - 2.Figure 14.17 (a) Monomers and (b) Reaction Scheme for non-aqueous dispersion, NA...

15 Chapter 15Figure 15.1 (a) Visual appearance and (b) TEM picture of iron oxides (red) C.I.:...Figure 15.2 (a) Visual appearance and (b) TEM picture of iron oxides (yellow).Figure 15.3 (a) Visual appearance and (b) TEM picture of iron oxides (black).Figure 15.4 Chemical structures (top panel) and photographs (bottom panel) ofFigure 15.5 The 3 fundamental steps of pigment dispersion.Figure 15.6 Generic metal oxide or organic pigment.Figure 15.7 Use of dispersants and steric or charge repulsions to stabilize pigm...Figure 15.8 Effect of glyceryl caprylate on dispersions of iron oxides in a lips...Figure 15.9 Compatibility studies of surface treated yellow iron oxides with mul...Figure 15.10 (a) Hegman gauge test on yellow iron oxides dispersion, (b) drawdow...Figure 15.11 SEM images of (a) Agglomerates of Aerosil 200 particles, (b) Aggreg...Figure 15.12 Functionalization/surface treatment of pyrogenated silica.Figure 15.13 SEM images of (a) Nylon 12 and (b) PMMA particles.Figure 15.14 (a) Thermal expansion scheme, (b) SEM image of Acrylonitrile/Methyl...Figure 15.15 (a) Synthetic amorphous silica from AGC Si Tech (Solesphere series)...Figure 15.16 (a) Lauroyl lysine and (b) aluminum starch octenylsuccinate particl...Figure 15.17 Compact powder made with perfluorooctyltriethoxy caprylylsilane (Ex...Figure 15.18 Examples of Kobo’s liquid dispersions of ITT surface treated Lake p...Figure 15.19 Example of long-wear formulations made with a polyhydrogenated poly...Figure 15.20 Pictures of lips of panelists wearing formulations containing ASG p...Figure 15.21 Conventional nail polish manufacturing schematic.Figure 15.22 Nitrocellulose based dispersions drawdowns of (a) 2 forms of titani...Figure 15.23 Staining phenomenon observed on nails (a) Stained nail with Blue 1 ...Figure 15.24 TEM pictures of (a) Sensient Black 2 particles and (b) Daito Black ...Figure 15.25 SEM picture of an eyelash onto which carbon black containing long-w...

16 Chapter 16Figure 16.1 Structure of human skin.Figure 16.2 A survey of formulation types of 149 recently launched foundations i...Figure 16.3 Pigmented solutions (20 wt% MQ resin, 1 wt% Red 7 pigment, and 79 wt...Figure 16.4 Images of water and oil droplets on substrates of titanium dioxide. ...Figure 16.5 Viscosity of dispersions of untreated and treated titanium dioxides....Figure 16.6 Water contact angles (top images) and micrographs (bottom images) of...Figure 16.7 Structure illustration of an MQ resin.Figure 16.8 T-Propyl silsequioxane resin with loose cage structures such as in (...Figure 16.9 Illustration of two types of silicone acrylates. Left: acrylate poly...Figure 16.10 Chemistry of preparing trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol crosspo...Figure 16.11 Chemical structures of four silicone emulsifiers. Top Left: PEG/PPG...Figure 16.12 SEM images showing filler morphology. Left: Nylon-12 particles from...Figure 16.13 Film tackiness of MQ resin and PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone (Silicone ...Figure 16.14 Sebum and water contact angles on MQ resin and PEG/PPG-18/18 dimeth...Figure 16.15 Film hardness and tack. a): Pendulum film hardness measurement on b...

17 Chapter 17Figure 17.1 Timeline of the evolution of mascara from Ancient Egypt (3500 BC) to...Figure 17.2 Mascara compositions.Figure 17.3 Ranking of the mascara attributes which were preferred by consumers ...Figure 17.4 Mapping the needs of long-wear mascara.Figure 17.5 (a) Mascara coated on false eyelash immersed in artificial sebum (le...Figure 17.6 Rub test results for various mascaras [29].Figure 17.7 SEM image of semi-permanent mascara deposited on the false eyelash.Figure 17.8 In-vivo evaluation of a semi-permanent mascara prototype.Figure 17.9 Structure of MQ resin.Figure 17.10 Structures of rosin derivatives (a) Pentaerythrityl rosinate and (b...Figure 17.11 Latex as a coating for eyelash.Figure 17.12 Hybrid latex system using a blend of polyurethane (PU) and acrylic ...Figure 17.13 Comparison of sebum and water resistance for long-wear mascaras con...Figure 17.14 (a) Styrene/ Acrylate copolymer, (b) hyperbranched copolymer of C30...Figure 17.15 SEM images of latex film coated on hair substrate without and with ...Figure 17.16 SEM images of (a) CoverGirl Lash Exact waterproof, (b) semi-permane...Figure 17.17 Complex modulus G* and δ for commercial long-wear mascaras from 1-d...Figure 17.18 Complex modulus G* and δ for semi-permanent mascaras (3-day wear).Figure 17.19 Complex modulus G* and δ for semi-permanent mascaras (3 & 4-day wea...Figure 17.20 Shear viscosity of long-wear and semi-permanent mascaras.Figure 17.21 (a) Thixotropic area (loop) of long-wear (Revlon Colorstay) and sem...Figure 17.22 Images of commercial long-wear mascaras from 1-day wear to 4-day we...Figure 17.23 Sebum transfer test on blotting paper from 5 commercial mascaras af...Figure 17.24 No color transfer was observed from latex mascara after immersing i...Figure 17.25 Effect of polyacid on the storage (elastic) modulus E’ of the masca...Figure 17.26 Dependence of removability on the mascara type.Figure 17.27 Structure of acrylate copolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl methacry...Figure 17.28 The removability of long-wear and semi-permanent mascaras by Biphas...Figure 17.29 Optical Microscopy images of beeswax dispersions with various parti...Figure 17.30 Mascara removability with warm water decreases with increasing wax ...

18 Chapter 18Figure 18.1 Top lips colors in the world [5].Figure 18.2 Example of claim for one of the first long-lasting iconic lipstick (...Figure 18.3 Test of lipstick by a consumer (right) and observation by an experim...Figure 18.4 Examination of the coated lips with camera and lights [19].Figure 18.5 Adhesion of the three lipsticks tested after four prints on a paper ...Figure 18.6 Practice for application of a layer of lipstick. Left column: detail...Figure 18.7 Structure of the human lip (a) – Cross section of the lips (b) [8].Figure 18.8 Ball on silicone elastomeric strip: principle of the delamination te...Figure 18.9 Doctor Blade machine (a) – Uniform lipstick layer on silicone strip ...Figure 18.10 Stribeck curves for lipsticks and balms [21].Figure 18.11 (a and b) Different views of the application of the lipstick with a...Figure 18.12 (a) Cream film thickness effect on the coefficient of friction and ...Figure 18.13 Principle of the scratch test [38].Figure 18.14 Principle of LASAT (a) – Example of result of the test with a lipst...Figure 18.15 Example of PCA (Principal Component Analysis) highlighting the corr...