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03

Rum Trader

WILMERSDORF

At first glance, Rum Trader’s appearance may deceive: the protruding and heavy-rimmed oblong windows shout ‘futuristic submarine’, as if it’s some kind of groovy hippy hangout. But ring the bell and a pleasing contradiction awaits: a bespectacled man appears at the door sporting the dandy’s uniform of bowtie, waistcoat and a blazer inscribed with the bar’s logo. He gently extends his hand in greeting and bids his visitors take their seats.

The man in question is the owner, Herr Scholl; and his diminutive establishment, which can only host around 20 patrons at a time, is more than just a bar – it’s a time machine. One of the oldest cocktail bars in the city, Rum Trader effortlessly transcends the general trendiness of such establishments. Music tinkles softly from a gramophone, dusty rum bottles line the shelves, and bubbles of conversation float up and down from a mixed crowd of young romantic couples, well-dressed clusters of middle-aged West Berliners and the occasional curious tourist.

As you might expect from such a venue, the cocktails are flawless. From the Hemingway to the Mint Julep or Rum Sour, it’s not just the ardour that goes into each one, but the complementary whiff of arrogance. No bumbling amateur, Herr Scholl settles for nothing less than true connoisseurship. Make the mistake of ordering a Caipirinha, say, and prepare to be scrutinised: ‘We don’t serve such drinks here’, he might retort, sharing a look of disdain with his assistant. Herr Scholl can be similarly irritated when patrons ask for his recommendations: ‘You should know what you like to drink,’ he has been heard to sigh.

While this doesn’t happen all the time, such characteristic cockiness, which might seem a turnoff at a lesser establishment, adds to the inherent charm and drama of the place. Indeed, it’s part of what lends the bar its air of timeless authenticity. Order well, and not only will you become acquainted with some of the best rum drinks in town, you’ll also make a new friend. GG

Fasanenstr. 40, 10719; U Spichernstr.

Map: West D4