Читать книгу Jewellery - H. Clifford Smith - Страница 3

Оглавление

I.	Sixteenth-Century Pendent Jewels of Enamelled Gold	Frontispiece
	1. Pendant in the form of a Triton. Italian. (Marquess of Clanricarde.) p. 249.
	2. Pendant in form of a winged dragon. Spanish. (Louvre.) p. 249.
II.	Phœnician Jewellery	To face p. 8.
	1-8. From Cyprus and Sardinia. (B. M.)
	1-4. Four gold earrings. p. 9. 1. Chrysalis form. 2-3. A pair: birds perched above a bushel of grain. 4. Long oval ring terminating with a cross.
	5-6. Two necklaces with pendent heads in the Egyptian style, from Tharros in Sardinia. p. 10. 5. Beads of glass and gold. 6. Carnelian bugles.
	7-8. Two seal pendants of silver, set with sard scarabs.
	9. Ibero-Phœnician stone bust, known as the "Lady of Elché." p. 9. (Louvre.) (Photo, Giraudon.)
III.	Early Greek Jewellery	To face p. 12.
	1. Three gold plates or discs from Mycenæ. p. 11. (National Museum, Athens.)
	2-7. Gold ornaments of the Mycenæan period. p. 12. (B. M.)
	2. Pendant from Ægina: figure in Egyptian costume grasping geese.
	3. Plaque from Kameiros: winged goddess, with two lions in the round, and owls at the top.
	4. Diadem of spiral ornament, from Enkomi (Salamis), Cyprus.
	5-6. Pair of leech-shaped earrings, from Enkomi.
	7. Pendent pomegranate of granulated gold, from Enkomi.
IV.	Greek Jewellery (Earrings, Necklace and Hair-pin). (B. M.)	To face p. 16.
	1-3. Three earrings. p. 15. 1. Head of a goat with garnet eye. 2. Pendent Cupids and Victories (Kyme, in Æolis). 3. Eros with a jug (Crete).
	4. Gold necklace with pendent tassels in form of pomegranates (Kyme).
	5. Pair of gold earrings set with garnets and emeralds, connected by a plaited chain. (Tyszkiewicz Collection.)
	6. Gold pin from Paphos, Cyprus. p. 17.
V.	Greek Jewellery (Crown, Necklaces, Bracelet, Rings). (B. M.)	To face p. 18.
	1. Gold crown from Magna Græcia, second century b.c. (Tyszkiewicz Collection.) p. 17.
	2. Necklace with enamelled rosettes and filigree. (Blacas Collection.)
	3. Enamelled gold necklace from Melos. p. 17.
	4. Gold bracelet with bulls' heads. (Blacas Collection.)
	5. Four rings. 1. Gold, demon with Sphynx and panther (early Ionic). 2. Silver, surmounted by gold fly (Cyprus). p. 10. 3. Gold, engraved with figures of Aphrodite and Eros. 4. Gold, with busts of Serapis and Isis (Græco-Roman).
VI.	Etruscan Jewellery (Pins, Necklaces, Earrings). (B. M.)	To face p. 22.
	1. Hair pins and balls of granulated gold, from Etruria.
	2. Primitive necklace of amber, gold, and electrum, from Præneste. p. 24.
	3. Necklace hung with pendent vases and heads of Io.
	4. Necklace with pendent head of a faun. p. 24.
	5. Chain with pendent head of a negro. p. 24.
	6. Necklace of plasma and gold beads, with basalt amulet pendant. p. 25.
	7-8. Earrings. p. 23. 7. Saddle-shaped, with fine granulation. 8. Pendent cock in white enamel.
VII.	Etruscan Jewellery (Brooches, Diadem, Bracelet, Rings). (B. M.)	To face p. 24.
	1. Early fibula from Cervetri, surmounted with figures of lions. p. 25.
	2. Gold diadem of ivy leaves and berries. p. 23.
	3. Fibula from Tuscana, with meander pattern in fine granulation.
	4. Early bracelet from Cervetri, with minute granular work. p. 25.
	5-8. Four rings. 1. Bezel mounted with intaglio, gold border with tendril pattern (Chiusi). 2. Cartouche with figures of shepherd and dog (Chiusi). 3. Intaglio bezel supported by lions. p. 25. 4. Large oval bezel bordered with dolphins and waves (Bolsena). p. 26.
VIII.	Roman Jewellery	To face p. 30.
	1-6. (B. M.)
	1. Gold necklace set with garnets, and a pendant in form of a butterfly.
	2. Gold necklace, with a pendent aureus of Domitian. p. 30.
	3. Gold hair-pin from Tarentum surmounted by a figure of Aphrodite. p. 28.
	4-6. Three gold rings. pp. 31-32. 4. Serpent form. 5. Open-worked, set with a nicolo intaglio—a mask of a Satyr. 6. Eye-shaped, with open-work shoulders, set with a nicolo.
	7-15. (V. and A. M.)
	7-10. Earrings. pp. 28-29. 7. Porphyry drop. 8. Two pearls (crotalia) suspended from yoke. 9. Basket of fruit set with garnet, a carnelian bead, and an emerald pendant. 10. Large hook set with sapphire, an emerald below, and three pearl drops.
	11. Gold bracelet in form of a serpent. p. 30.
	12-15. Four rings. 12. Gold: tragic mask in high relief. 13. Gold: quintuple, set with two sapphires and three garnets. 14. Gold: raised open-work bezel set with a sapphire and a chrysoprase. 15. Gilt bronze: bust of Serapis in relief. p. 32.
IX.	Byzantine Jewellery, and Enamelled Jewellery in the Byzantine Style	To face p. 36.
	1-7 and 9-11. (B. M.) 8. (V. and A. M.)
	1-2. Pair of gold loop earrings: a cross patée between two peacocks confronted. About seventh century. p. 35.
	3. Gold pectoral cross with a text from Galatians vi. 14. Eleventh century. p. 36.
	4-5. Pair of gold and enamelled loop earrings. Twelfth century. p. 35.
	6. Nielloed gold wedding ring: Christ and the Virgin blessing a bride and bridegroom. About tenth century.
	7. Engraved gold signet ring. About fifth century.
	8. Beresford-Hope cross: cloisonné enamel. About eighth century. p. 36.
	9. The Castellani brooch: portrait in cloisonné enamel. North Italian, seventh century. p. 70.
	10. Gold inscribed key ring. Fourth century. p. 37.
	11. Townley brooch. Probably Rhenish work, with Byzantine cloisonné enamels. Tenth or eleventh century. p. 70.
X.	Prehistoric Gold Ornaments of the British Isles (B. M.)	To face p. 40.
	1. Ring, found at Bormer, near Falmer, Sussex.
	2. Plaited ring, found near Waterford, Ireland.
	3. "Ring Money" of gold and silver, found at Rustington, Sussex.
	4. Torque fastened by a ring, found at Boyton, Suffolk.
	5. Disc, found at Castle Treasure, near Douglas, Co. Cork.
	6. Dress fastener, found at Crif Keran Castle, Co. Armagh.
	7. Bracelet, found at Bexley, Kent.
XI.	Anglo-Saxon and Romano-British Brooches, etc. (B. M.)	To face p. 60.
	1-5. Anglo-Saxon inlaid jewellery.
	1. Gold brooch, from Sarre, Kent. p. 61.
	2. Silver brooch, from Faversham, Kent. p. 60.
	3. Gold pendant, from Faversham. p. 58.
	4. Bronze brooch, from Wingham, Kent. p. 60.
	5. Gold brooch, from Abingdon, Berks. p. 61, note.
	6-7. Romano-British brooches.
	6. Bronze brooch set with slices of Roman millefiori glass, from Pont-y-Saison, near Chepstow, Mon. p. 46.
	7. Enamelled bronze brooch, found in London. (Hastings Collection.) p. 46.
XII.	Anglo-Saxon and Frankish Jewellery (Fifth to Seventh Centuries)	To face p. 62.
	1-6. (B. M.)
	1. Gold necklace with garnets, from Desborough, Northants. p. 74.
	2. Gold bracteate, from Ash, near Sandwich, Kent. p. 59.
	3. Saucer-shaped brooch, bronze gilt, from East Shefford, Berks. p. 61.
	4 Square-headed brooch, from Chessell Down, Isle of Wight. p. 62.
	5. Cruciform brooch, bronze gilt, from Sleaford, Lincs. p. 61.
	6. Inlaid and jewelled gold buckle, from Taplow, Bucks. p. 63.
	7. "Radiated" brooch of silver, enriched with gold and inlay of garnets. The back inscribed with the name Uffila. Seventh century. From Wittislingen on the Danube. 6½ inches long. p. 62. (Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)
XIII.	Late Anglo-Saxon Jewellery (Seventh to Ninth Centuries)	To face p. 68.
	1-2. The Alfred Jewel. pp. 68-69. (Ashmolean Museum, Oxford.)
	3. St. Cuthbert's cross. p. 68. (Durham Cathedral.)
	4. Dowgate Hill brooch: cloisonné enamel and pearls. p. 69. (B. M.)
	5. Ethelwulf's ring. p. 72. (B. M.)
	6. Nielloed gold ring with two bezels, found in the Nene, near Peterborough. p. 72. (B. M.)
	7. Ethelswith's ring. p. 72. (B. M.)
	8. Gold ring, found in Garrick Street, London. (B. M.)
	9. Alhstan's ring. p. 71. (V. and A. M.)
	10. Nielloed gold ring. p. 73. (Lord Fitzhardinge.)
	11. Silver ring found in the Thames at Chelsea. p. 73. (V. and A. M.)
XIV.	The Tara Brooch. p. 78. (Collection of the Royal Irish Academy, National Museum, Dublin.)	To face p. 78.
XV.	The Jewels of William of Wykeham. New College, Oxford.	To face p. 96.
	1. Monogram of the Virgin: gold, enamelled, and set with rubies, emeralds and pearls.
	2. Silver-gilt decorations of the mitre: comprising two quatrefoils set with turquoises, two rosettes set with pastes, and hinged bands of brasse-taille enamel set with pearls and crystals. English, late fourteenth century. pp. 96-98.
XVI.	Antique Cameos in Mediæval Settings.	To face p. 102.
	1. The Jewel of St. Hilary. p. 103. (Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.)
	2. The Schaffhausen onyx. p. 104.
	3. The cameo of Charles V of France. p. 103. (Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.) (Photo, Giraudon.)
XVII.	Mediæval Head-Ornaments.	To face p. 110.
	1-4. Pilgrims' signs of lead. p. 110. (B. M.)
	1. Head of St. Thomas with swords, within a cusped border.
	2. Ampulla for blood of St. Thomas.
	3. St. George within a border.
	4. Head of St. John the Baptist.
	5-8. Retainers' badges of lead. p. 110. (B. M.)
	5. Hart lodged (Richard II).
	6. Crowned ostrich feather (Duke of Norfolk).
	7. Rose and fetterlock (Edward IV).
	8. Collared hound (Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury).
	9. Silver-gilt crown or circlet, set with pearls and coloured pastes. French, fourteenth century. p. 106. (Musée du Cinquantenaire, Brussels.)
	10-12. Three fifteenth-century gold enseignes.
	10. Antique onyx cameo, outer frame set with rubies. Spanish. p. 111. (V. and A. M.)
	11. "Pelican in her Piety," set with a ruby and diamond. Flemish (found in the Meuse). p. 111. (B. M.)
	12. Figure of a dromedary in white enamel in frame set with pearls. Flemish. p. 146. (Museo Nazionale, Florence.) (Photo, Alinari.)
XVIII.	Mediæval Pendants (Reliquaries, etc.)	To face p. 120.
	1. Silver reliquary set with crystal. German, fifteenth century. p. 121. (Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)
	2 Silver-gilt reliquary, from the treasury of Enger, near Herford, in Westphalia. Fifteenth century. (Kunstgewerbe Museum, Berlin.)
	3. Silver-gilt pomander opening into four sections. German, about 1480. p. 126. (Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)
	4. Gold Reliquary of Charlemagne, containing a fragment of the True Cross. German, ninth (?) century p. 118.
	5. "Reliquary of St. Louis," gold, enriched with translucent enamels, containing a thorn from the Crown of Thorns. French, fourteenth century. p. 119. (B. M.)
	6. Gold bracelet. German, twelfth century. p. 157. (Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)
XIX.	Mediæval Pendants	To face p. 124.
	1. Silver-gilt pendant containing figures of saints and angels, surmounted by the Virgin and Child. German, fifteenth century. p. 120. (Bavarian National Museum, Munich).
	2-3, 5-8, and 10. German fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. (V. and A. M.)
	2. Coronation of the Virgin, silver gilt.
	3. Agnus Dei, silver gilt. Inscribed: Iecuc (Jesus) Maria Johannes Annus (agnus). On the back: Jesus Maira (Maria) Johannes Maria hilf. p. 122.
	4. Nielloed pendant, silver gilt: with the Annunciation on one side, and the sacred monogram on the other. Italian, fifteenth century. p. 173. (V. and A. M.)
	5. St. Sebastian, silver gilt.
	6. The Crucifixion, silver gilt.
	7. Figures of four saints, silver gilt.
	8. Gold cross, set with rubies and pearls. Fifteenth century.
	9. The Devil of Temptation, silver gilt. Flemish or German, fifteenth century. p. 120. (Mrs. Percy Macquoid.)
	10. Rosary of boxwood, with emblems of the Passion in silver. p. 124.
XX.	Mediæval Brooches (Ring-Brooches, etc.)	To face p. 130.
	1-6. Gold ring-brooches (fermails).
	1. Set with pearls and precious stones, and with four bosses of animals. Fourteenth century. p. 129. (B. M.)
	2. Enamelled blue and white, and inscribed with a text from St. Luke iv. 30. French, fourteenth century. p. 130. (Museo Nazionale, Florence.) (Photo, Alinari.)
	3. Set with rubies and sapphires, the back nielloed. French, thirteenth century. p. 130. (V. and A. M.)
	4. Heart-shaped, inscribed. French, fifteenth century. p. 139. (V. and A. M.)
	5. Circular: inscribed, and set with two rubies and four small emeralds. English (from Enniscorthy Abbey), fourteenth century. (B. M.)
	6. Set with rubies and emeralds. French, thirteenth century. p. 130. (Museo Nazionale, Florence.) (Photo, Alinari.)
	7. Silver-gilt brooch in form of St. Christopher. English (from Kingston-on-Thames), fifteenth century. p. 142. (B. M.)
	8-12. Flemish-Burgundian gold brooches (nouches). Fifteenth century.
	8. Two standing figures, enamelled, and set with a ruby, diamond, and pearls. p. 146. (Imperial Art Collections, Vienna.)
	9. Seated female figure with golden rays behind: enamelled and set with pearls. p. 144. (Essen Treasury.)
	10-12. Brooches found in the Meuse. p. 143. (B. M.)
	10. Enamelled and set with a ruby and diamond.
	11. A female figure, set with a sapphire, diamond, and three rubies.
	12. Set with a ruby amidst foliage, with traces of enamel.
XXI.	Mediæval Scottish Brooches. The Glenlyon and Loch Buy Brooches. (B. M.)	To face p. 132.
	1. The Glenlyon brooch. Silver gilt, set with amethysts, pearls, and rock crystal: the back inscribed. Fifteenth century. p. 132.
	2. The Loch Buy brooch. Silver, set with rock crystal and pearls. About 1500. p. 133.
XXII.	Mediæval Brooches (Pectorals and Morse)	To face p. 136.
	1. The "Eagle Fibula"; gold and cloisonné enamel. Early twelfth century. p. 135. (Mainz Museum.)
	2. Gold brooch in form of an eagle, set with emeralds, lapis-lazuli, a sapphire, and a ruby. Thirteenth century. p. 136. (Baron von Heyl.) From an etching in Kunstgewerbe-Blatt, III. (By permission of the artist, Prof. P. Halm, of Munich.)
	3. Silver-gilt morse, made in 1484 for Albert von Letelin, Canon of Minden, by the goldsmith Reinecke van Dressche of Minden. p. 139. (Kunstgewerbe Museum, Berlin.)
XXIII.	Mediæval and later Rings	To face p. 148.
	1-2. Episcopal rings of William of Wykeham. Fourteenth century. (New College, Oxford.) 1. Gold set with a ruby. p. 149. 2. Silver gilt, with representation of the crucifixion, set with a crystal.
	3. Gold, episcopal, set with a sapphire. English, fourteenth century. (V. and A. M.)
	4-5. The Coventry ring (two views). Gold, engraved with the five wounds of Christ and their names. English, about 1457. p. 150. (B. M.)
	6. The Godstow Priory ring: a gold love-ring, with legends and forget-me-nots. English, fifteenth century. p. 150.
	7. Gold, episcopal, projecting bezel set with a sapphire. French, fourteenth century. (V. and A. M.)
	8. Gold, episcopal, of complex design, set with a sapphire. Italian, fifteenth century. (V. and A. M.)
	9. Silver, set with a toadstone. German, sixteenth century. p. 151. (V. and A. M.)
	10. "Papal" ring. Gilt metal with cardinal's hat and crossed keys. On shoulders Virgin and Child and Saint. Inscription on hoop: episc. lugdun—Cardinal de Bourbon (?), Archbishop of Lyons, 1466-1488. Italian, fifteenth century. p. 148. (V. and A. M.)
	11. Antique gem in red jasper, set in gold Italian mount of the fourteenth century, inscribed: S. FR. de Columpna. p. 154. (V. and A. M.)
	12. Gold, set with a wolf's tooth, and inscribed with the charm motto: +buro+berto+berneto+consummatum est. English, fourteenth century. p. 152. (V. and A. M.)
	13. Gold ornamental ring, chased, enamelled, and set with emeralds. Italian, sixteenth century. (B. M.)
	14. Gold signet ring with the arms of Mortimer. English, seventeenth century. (V. and A. M.)
	15. Silver-gilt wedding ring, set with two teeth. North German, seventeenth century. p. 262. (V. and A. M.)
	16. Fede ring, nielloed silver. Italian, fifteenth century. p. 173 (V. and A. M.)
	17. Ornamental ring of silver gilt, set with a foiled crystal. German, sixteenth century. p. 356. (V. and A. M.)
	18. The Percy signet. Gold. Inscribed: "now ys thus." From Towton Field, W. R., Yorks. English, fifteenth century. p. 153. (B. M.)
	19. Ornamental ring of silver gilt, with stag and foliage in open-work. German, late fifteenth century. (V. and A. M.)
	20. Gimmel rings, enamelled gold. German, sixteenth century. p. 261. (B. M.)
XXIV.	Picture, known as the "Legend of St. Eloy and St. Godeberta," representing the interior of a goldsmith's shop in the fifteenth century. By Petrus Christus, of Bruges. p. 155. (Baron A. Oppenheim, of Cologne)	To face p. 156.
XXV.	Fifteenth-Century Pendants, etc. (Italian and Flemish)	To face p. 170.
	1. The "Felicini" jewel, by Francia. Reproduced from a picture in the Bologna Gallery. p. 170.
	2. Enamelled gold pendant, figured with the Annunciation. Italian, fifteenth century. p. 173. (Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.)
	3. Pendent jewel of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, set with three rubies ("the Brethren"), a diamond, and four pearls. p. 209.
	4. Two silver-gilt girdle-plates, with figures of Samson and St. Michael. Flemish, fifteenth century. p. 163. (Herr James Simon, of Berlin.)
XXVI.	Designs for Jewellery by Dürer and Holbein. (B. M.)	To face p. 190.
	1. Drawings for two ring-shaped pendent whistles by Dürer. p. 190.
	2-3. Etchings for (2) a buckle and buckle-plate and (3) a girdle-end, by Hollar, from lost originals by Dürer. p. 191.
	4-9. Drawings by Holbein. p. 212.
	4. Jewelled pendant: a monogram of the letters R and E.
	5. A pendant of open goldwork with ribbon ornament; a diamond in the centre, surrounded by six pearls, and a pearl below.
	6. Pendant formed in a monogram of the letters H and I.
	7-8. Two pendants each formed of two stones, one above the other, set in goldwork, with three pearls below.
	9. Pendant: a bust of a woman holding before her a large stone, on which are the words Well Laydi Well.
XXVII.	Designs for Jewellery by Solis, Woeiriot, Hornic, and Brosamer	To face p. 194.
	1-2. Engravings for pendants by Virgil Solis. p. 194. (B. M.)
	3. Engraving for a pendant by Pierre Woeiriot, dated 1555. p. 201 (B. M.)
	4-6. Engravings for pendants by Erasmus Hornick: Neptune and Amphitrite, and St. George and the Dragon. p. 194. (B. M.)
	7. Drawing for pendent whistle by Han Brosamer, fitted with toothpick, etc. pp. 193, 250. (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)
XXVIII.	Renaissance Jewellery of Enamelled Gold. (His Majesty the King)	To face p. 218.
	1. Painted enamel back of a "lesser George" of the Garter, belonging to Charles II. English, seventeenth century. p. 292.
	2. Enamelled gold enseigne, with figures of St. George and the Dragon. Venetian, sixteenth century. p. 224.
	3. Enamelled gold pendant, with figures of Apollo and Daphne: inscribed: Daphnem Phebvs Amat, etc. Italian, sixteenth century.
	4. The Lennox or Darnley Jewel. Scottish, sixteenth century. pp. 217 and 257.
	5. Miniature case of enamelled gold, open-worked and set with diamonds and rubies. English, late sixteenth or early seventeenth century. It contains a lock of hair of Charles I taken from his coffin. p. 257. From the Connoisseur (1903). By permission of Mr. J. T. Herbert Baily.
XXIX.	Renaissance Enseignes of Enamelled Gold	To face p. 226.
	1. Head of John the Baptist on a charger. Italian, sixteenth century. p. 226. (V. and A. M.)
	2. Bust of Helen. Italian, sixteenth century. (Poldi-Pezzoli Museum, Milan.)
	3. Battle scene. Italian, sixteenth century. p. 225. (Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.)
	4. Head of a negro in agate. German, sixteenth century. p. 228. (Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.)
	5. Leda and the Swan. By Cellini. p. 228. (Antiken Kabinet, Vienna.)
	6. Cameo bust of Nero on sardonyx, in enamelled mount set with diamonds and rubies. French, sixteenth century. (Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.) (Photo, Giraudon.)
	7. Cameo of Diana on sardonyx in enamelled setting. French, sixteenth century. (B. M.)
	8. Onyx cameo, winged female head in enamelled setting. French, sixteenth century. (B. M.)
XXX.	Hat-Ornaments (Aigrettes, etc.). Late sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries	To face p. 230.
	1. Two coloured drawings for jewelled aigrettes. By Arnold Lulls, jeweller to James I. pp. 231 and 302-3. (V. and A. M.)
	2. Gold enseigne of Sir Francis Drake: enamelled and set with diamonds, rubies, and opals. p. 230. See also Plate XXXIV, 3. (Sir F. Fuller-Eliott-Drake.)
	3. Socket for an aigrette, enamelled gold set with rubies: initials D. M.—Dorothea Maria, wife of Otto Henry, Count Palatine of Neuburg. pp. 230-1. (Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)
	4. Enamelled gold aigrette set with emeralds, pearls, etc. S. German, early seventeenth century. (Formerly the property of Sir T. D. Gibson Carmichael.)
XXXI.	German and French Renaissance Pendents	To face p. 244.
	1. Necklace and pendant of enamelled gold set with diamonds, rubies, and pearls. German, late sixteenth century. (Lady Rothschild.)
	2. Pendant of enamelled gold. In the centre a table-cut emerald with a triangular emerald above. French, sixteenth century. (Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.)
	3. Gold pendant: on the front two raised shields of arms; on the back the initials D. A. German, about 1530. p. 248. (V. and A. M.)
	4. Cameo bust of a woman, the head carnelian, with amethyst drapery, jewelled gold crown; gold background and black enamelled frame. German, sixteenth century. (His Majesty the King.)
	5. Pendant in the shape of a Sphynx. The body formed of a large baroque pearl. Head, breast, and arms are flesh-coloured enamel; the claw opaque white with gold scales; the tail green, set with diamonds. On the breast is a ruby. The base mounted with a row of diamonds on white enamel, the creatures at each end being green. The chains, of white enamel set with diamonds, hang from a ruby, from which is suspended a heart-shaped pearl. German, late sixteenth century. (Lady Rothschild.)
	6. Portrait cameo in agate. Gold mount enamelled black and white and set with four rubies and two diamonds, with a pendent pearl. The portrait (unidentified) is represented on a contemporary medal by a north Italian artist. The mount, French, sixteenth century. (Bibliothèque Nationale Paris.)
	7. Gold pomander case: enriched with brilliant blue, red, and translucent green enamel, and opaque white. Set with rubies and pendent pearls, German, late sixteenth century. (Lady Rothschild.)
XXXII.	Three Pendent Jewels	To face p. 246.
	Gold, enriched with polychrome enamels, set with precious stones and hung with pearls. German, about 1600. (Lady Rothschild.)
XXXIII.	Pendent Jewels by Hans Collaert, etc.	To face p. 248.
	1. Enamelled gold pendant: in centre a figure of Charity with three children, on each side a pilaster set with diamonds and rubies alternately, with a cupid above, and beyond each pilaster a figure of Faith on one side and Fortitude on the other. German, sixteenth century. (B. M., Waddesdon Bequest.)
	2. Design for a pendant by Hans Collaert (1581). p. 196. (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)
	3. Pendant in the style of Collaert: enamelled gold, in the form of a ship, with figures of Antony and Cleopatra. pp. 197, 247. (Mr. Charles Wertheimer.)
XXXIV.	Renaissance Pendants, etc., of Gold, Enamelled and Jewelled. Spanish (1-2) and English (3-6).	To face p. 254.
	1-2. Spanish Pendants, late sixteenth century. From the Treasury of the Virgen del Pilar, Saragossa. 1. Jewel in form of a parrot: translucent green enamel, the breast set with a hyacinth. p. 249. 2. Jewel of enamelled gold: a dog standing on a scroll, set with diamonds, rubies, and an emerald. (V. and A. M.)
	3-4. The Drake Jewels: presented to Sir Francis Drake by Queen Elizabeth. 3. Enseigne of enamelled gold set with diamonds, rubies, and opals; the centre ruby engraved with the Queen's orb and cross. p. 230. 4. Enamelled gold pendant, containing a miniature of Elizabeth by Hilliard. p. 253. (Sir F. Fuller-Eliott-Drake.)
	5-6. The Armada Jewel. Believed to have been presented by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Francis Walsingham. Possibly the work of Nicholas Hilliard. 5. Front: Gold bust of the Queen. 6. Back: Ark resting peacefully on troubled waves. Inside: Miniature of Elizabeth by Hilliard. p. 255. (Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.)
XXXV.	Elizabethan Jewellery	To face p. 256.
	1. The Phœnix Jewel. p. 255. (B. M.)
	2. Drake pendant in the form of a ship. p. 253. (Lord Fitzhardinge.)
	3. Pendent miniature case, with carved medallion in mother-of-pearl. p. 256. (Poldi-Pezzoli Museum, Milan.)
	4. The Barbor Jewel. p. 254. (V. and A. M.)
	5. The Hunsdon Armlet. p. 265-6. (Lord Fitzhardinge.)
	6. Onyx cameo in gold mount, presented to Queen Elizabeth by Archbishop Parker. (Described in Arch. Journ. Vol. XIX.) (Mr. G. E. Lloyd Baker.)
	7. Edward VI's Prayer Book. p. 274. (Lord Fitzhardinge.)
XXXVI.	Renaissance and later Rings. (V. and A. M.)	To face p. 262.
	1. Gold wedding ring: open-work hands (fede), inscribed within: Qvod Devs conivnvit homo non separet. Florentine, sixteenth century. p. 262.
	2. Jewish wedding ring of enamelled gold. Italian, sixteenth century. p. 262.
	3. Gold wedding ring, set with rose diamond between enamelled hands. English, dated 1706. p. 321.
	4. Gold, set with a pointed diamond. English, seventeenth century. p. 260.
	5. Jewish wedding ring of enamelled gold in form of a temple. German, sixteenth century. p. 262.
	6. Enamelled gold, set with a diamond. Italian, sixteenth century.
	7. Enamelled gold, figure of Cupid with a garnet on the breast. Seventeenth century.
	8. Gold, set with a miniature portrait of James Stuart, the Old Chevalier.
	9. Giardinetti ring: a basket of flowers composed of diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. English, eighteenth century. p. 295.
	10. Giardinetti: set with diamonds and rubies in the form of a vase of flowers. English, late seventeenth century. p. 295.
	11. Memorial: chased with death's head in white enamel, and having diamond eyes. English, seventeenth century. p. 367.
	12. Memorial: with enamelled skull. Inscribed: Behold the ende. (Said to have belonged to Charles I.) p. 366.
	13. Memorial: bezel enclosing painted female figure, bearing inscription: Not lost but gone before. English, dated 1788. p. 369.
	14. Memorial: bezel enclosing funereal urn in hair and gold. English, dated 1781. p. 369.
XXXVII.	Renaissance Bracelets	To face p. 266.
	1. Gold bracelet of circular fluted links with enamelled clasp. German, late sixteenth century. p. 266. (V. and A. M.)
	2. Bracelet of enamelled gold. French, seventeenth century. (V. and A. M.) p. 294.
	3-4. Bracelet of Diana of Poitiers, enamelled gold, set with cameos. p. 266. (Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris.) (Photo, Giraudon.)
	5. Gold bracelet of Otto Henry, Count Palatine of Neuburg (d. 1604), with his wife's initials—D M P B R G H Z W V T (Dorothea Maria Pfalzgräfin bei Rhein geborne Herzogin zu Wirtemberg und Tek.) Compare p. 230. (Bavarian National Museum, Munich.)
XXXVIII.	Renaissance Girdles	To face p. 272.
	1. Italian, fifteenth-century girdle of gold tissue with gilt metal mounts. p. 163. (V. and A. M.)
	2. Silver gilt chain girdle. German, late sixteenth century. (Mrs. Percy Macquoid.)
	3. Nuremberg girdle of leather, with silver-gilt mounts. Seventeenth century. p. 272. (V. and A. M.)
XXXIX.	Engraved Designs for Jewellery by Daniel Mignot. p. 280. (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)	To face p. 280.
XL.	Engraved Designs for Jewellery by Gilles Légaré and Paul Birckenhultz	To face p. 282.
	1-2. Designs for pendants, seals, and rings; from Gilles Légaré's Livre des Ouvrages d'Orfévrerie. p. 282. (B. M.)
	3. Seal in the style of Légaré. The upper part gold with painted enamel; below, engraved on steel, the Royal Arms of the Stuarts, with bâton sinister, of Anne Fitz Roy (b. 1661, d. 1721, married 1674, Lord Dacre, created Earl of Sussex), daughter of Barbara Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland, and Charles II. (Col. Croft Lyons.)
	4. Design for a pendant by Paul Birckenhultz. pp. 280-1. (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)
XLI.	Engraved Patterns for Jewellery, and Enamelled Jewels executed from similar Designs. Late sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries	To face p. 284.
	1. Design for enamelled jewellery by Hans Hensel, of Sagan (1599). p. 284. (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)
	2. Gold ring set with flat heart-shaped garnet: design on shoulders reserved in gold on white enamel. Early seventeenth century. p. 295. (B. M.)
	3. Design for jewellery in champlevé enamel, by Guillaume de la Quewellerie, of Amsterdam (1611). p. 284. (V. and A. M.)
	4. Gold ring: the shoulders enamelled in the champlevé manner with design in black and white. Late sixteenth century. (V. and A. M.)
	5. Design for an enamelled ring by Hans van Ghemert (1585). p. 284. (V. and A. M.)
	6. Design for enamel-work by Jean Toutin (1619). p. 285. (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)
	7. The Lyte Jewel, containing a portrait of James I by Isaac Oliver. Reverse side, with "silhouette" pattern in gold and ruby champlevé enamel on white ground. English, about 1610. pp. 303-4. (B. M., Waddesdon Bequest.) (Enamel-work of identical design occurs on the back of a miniature-case, containing a portrait of Charles I by Peter Oliver, dated 1626, in the collection of Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.)
	8. Design for enamel-work in the "niello" or "silhouette" manner, by Stephanus Carteron (1615). p. 285. (Mr. Max Rosenheim.)
XLII.	Seventeenth-Century Enamelled Pendants, etc.	To face p. 290.
	1. Gold pendant, containing an onyx cameo surrounded by ribbon-work and flowers of coloured enamel, set with rose diamonds. French. (Mr. Jeffery Whitehead.)
	2-3. Pair of earrings en suite formed of a hand holding a bow and bunch of flowers.
	4. Pendant: an interlaced monogram of turquoise enamel suspended from a crown-shaped ornament, enamelled and set with diamonds. French. (Mr. Jeffery Whitehead.)
	5. Gold pendant of variegated enamel (translucent and opaque) in form of a basket filled with fruit, with flowers above, and a bird on the top. (H. C. S.)
	6. Small aigrette of silver in form of a bunch of flowers springing from a vase, set with rose diamonds, and bearing traces of enamel. (H. C. S.)
XLIII.	Seventeenth-Century Enamelled Miniature-Cases, Lockets, etc.	To face p. 292.

Подняться наверх