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ОглавлениеAn Introduction to Indian Ingredients
The following is a description of some of the most commonly used Indian ingredients. Many of the ingredients and spices used in this book are found in well-stocked supermarkets. These include cumin, coriander, turmeric, mace, black pepper, ginger, paprika, cayenne pepper, cloves, cinnamon, and cardamom. Some others are carried in South Asian or Indian food markets or are available by mail and on the internet (see Shopping Guide, page 140).
Indian cuisine has always been very receptive to spices and ingredients from other cuisines and cultures. For example, in India and in Indian homes around the world, it is very common to use Sriracha chili sauce or soy sauce to jazz up Indian stir-fry dishes or dipping sauces that are inspired by other Asian cuisines. (See Spiced Crab Cakes, page 82, and Dried Bombay Beef, page 106.)
In this book I use some ingredients that are not used in a traditional Indian kitchen. Olive oil is one of them. Even though in most cases Indian recipes call for any neutral-flavored vegetable oil (for example, canola, safflower, or corn oil), olive oil is a healthier alternative. I use it often to drizzle over salads (Sweet Potato and Sprout Salad, page 44) and sometimes for lighter cooking and simple vegetable dishes.
Traditionally whole-milk yogurt is hung in a muslin cloth to drain out all the whey to create the creamy, thick yogurt known as “hung curd” that is ideal for many authentic Indian recipes—particularly to marinate chicken or meats and make creamy sauces and dips. Rather than take the time to hang plain yogurt at home, I use either sour cream or the increasingly available thick, Greek-style plain yogurt. Both are perfect alternatives for the Indian thick, creamy yogurt.
Storage Tips for Spices and Herbs
Ideally, it is best to buy all dry spices in their whole form. Whole spices will stay fresh generally five to six months longer than pre-ground spices. It’s a good habit to smell ground spices before using them; if their smell is very faint, it’s time to replace them or grind a fresh batch. Both whole and ground spices should be stored in a cool, dry, dark place in tightly covered jars. Freshly ground spices are not the same as pre-ground, store-bought spices. Freshly ground spices are far superior in flavor and aroma to pre-ground spices. Another difference is volume: Freshly ground spices have less density tablespoon for tablespoon and less volume ounce for ounce than pre-ground spices, which settle over time. You might think you would need to use more of the freshly ground spice to compensate for the greater weight of the settled, and therefore denser, pre-ground bottled spice. But because pre-ground spices are so much less potent than freshly ground, the difference in volume is not of consequence. If anything, you might need to add more of the pre-ground spice.
To prolong the life span of fresh herbs, such as fresh coriander (cilantro) and mint, wash the leaves and dry with a paper towel until the leaves are mostly, but not completely, dry. Store refrigerated, wrapped in a paper towel, inside a zip-lock bag.
Asafetida The dried, gum-like resin from the rhizome of a giant fennel-like plant is sold in both lump and ground forms. It is used in very small quantities because of its strong and pungent flavor, which is somewhat like garlic. I use and recommend the ground version because it comes mixed with rice flour and turmeric powder to mellow the flavor.
Asian Red Chili Powder or Cayenne Pepper This is a red powder made from grinding the dried, red skins of several types of chili peppers. In India, it is simply called “chili powder.” You can substitute cayenne pepper, which is commonly available in supermarkets. The Indian chili powder, which is darker in color than cayenne pepper, is available in Indian grocery stores. It adds a spicy flavor to dishes.
Bay Leaves These are long, oval, pointed and smooth leaves of a hardy evergreen shrub. The leaves are dark green when fresh and turn olive green when dry. The fresh leaves are very mild and do not develop their full flavor until several weeks after being picked and dried. They are often used whole or sometimes ground in curries and rice dishes. They are an important ingredient in the Indian spice blend, garam masala. Bay leaves are also a common fixture in the cooking of many European cuisines (particularly those of the Mediterranean), as well as North and South American cuisines. The bay leaf that is commonly available in North America is similar in appearance to the Indian bay leaf, but its flavor and fragrance are milder than the Indian one. If you cannot find Indian bay leaves, which are often found only in Indian grocery stores, you may substitute regular bay leaves. The difference is very subtle and will not be apparent in the final result.
Cardamom The cardamom plant is native to India and Sri Lanka and is also cultivated in Guatemala, Mexico, Indonesia, and other areas of southern Asia. Cardamom pods are harvested just before they are ripe and are allowed to dry in the sun or sometimes in drying machines. There are two distinct types of cardamom pods used in Indian cooking—the small, green pod and large, black pod. The green pods are the most common and have an exceptional flavor. I use the green pods in all the recipes in this book. Black cardamom pods are used in Indian rice and meat dishes, but they are not as commonly available. Cardamom pods are used in almost every part of the cuisine, from savory dishes to curries and desserts. When using cardamom for desserts, the seeds are extracted from the pods and ground to a powder. For curries, stews, or rice dishes, the whole pod can be added directly to the food. The sharp and bitter taste of cardamom mellows to a warming, sweet taste as it cooks. In the West, ground cardamom is more readily available than the pods, whereas in India, it is more typical to find whole pods. The quality of pre-ground cardamom is not as good as from seeds freshly ground at home. Once the pods are opened or the seeds ground, the flavor and aroma of the cardamom are lost very quickly. I especially recommend freshly grinding the seeds for the dessert and beverage recipes, where the spice often plays a key role.
Chili Peppers, Fresh, Green There are more than 150 varieties of chili peppers in the world. That’s a lot to keep track of, but as a general rule, the smaller ones are hotter than the larger ones. The two most common chilies used in Indian cooking are the cayenne and Thai. Cayenne pepper is green when fresh and red when dried. The Thai variety, sometimes known as “bird’s eye,” is smaller and hotter. The serrano chili is more widely available in the United States and is a good alternative to the cayenne and Thai, though it is milder. If you cannot find fresh cayenne, Thai, or serrano chili peppers, simply use what’s available. Fresh chilies are one of the most important ingredients for providing pungency in Indian cuisine. In many regions in India, fresh, green chilies are served raw with the food. Often I like to reduce the heat by removing the inner membrane and seeds and use only the skin. Chopping a fresh chili releases capsaicin, and the finer you chop it, the hotter the taste. Sometimes I slit the chilies open, but leave the seeds intact to release a gentler heat.
Chili Peppers, Dried, Red These are whole, dried red hot chilies, about 1½–2 in (4–5 cm) long that are usually added to hot oil to infuse it with their strong flavor. A quick contact with hot oil enhances and intensifies the flavor of the skins. Most chilies start off green and turn red as they age. The Indian dried red chilies are similar to most common types such as the cayenne and chile de arbol.
Cinnamon This highly fragrant spice is the dried inner bark of the laurel tree. An important ingredient in Indian cooking, it imparts a pleasant aroma to foods. It is sold in powder and stick forms. The whole sticks are used to flavor meats, curry dishes, and rice dishes as well as teas.
Cloves These are the dried, unopened buds of a tropical tree. Deep reddish-brown cloves add a strong fragrance to rice and grain recipes and are an important ingredient in garam masala. They are lightly fried in hot oil, which perfumes the food cooked in it.
Coconut Milk, Coconut Meat, Shredded Coconut In my recipes I use coconut milk, coconut meat, and shredded coconut. Coconut milk is produced by crushing the thick, white coconut meat and mixing it with water. The result is then drained, and the soaked coconut meat squeezed to extract the liquid. As the milk sits, the fat rises to the surface. This fat is skimmed off and sold separately as coconut cream. The cream is much richer and thicker than the milk. Coconut milk and coconut cream are both sold in cans. When using coconut milk for savory recipes, make sure it is not sweetened. Sweetened milk or cream is used in making pastries and cocktails. I prefer to use full-fat coconut milk rather than the “lite” version that is not as flavorful or creamy. Before opening a can of coconut milk, make sure to shake it well as the cream will have risen to the top; shaking the can incorporates the cream into the thinner milk-like liquid to create a smooth, even consistency. Once the can is opened make sure you store it in the refrigerator, covered, and use it within 2–3 days since it spoils quickly.
Packaged, shredded coconut (sometimes labeled “grated”) is available frozen, which is the next best option to freshly grated and dried or “desiccated.” For the recipes in this book, be sure to purchase unsweetened shredded coconut. While dried unsweetened coconut is easy to find in most supermarkets or health food stores, frozen shredded coconut is available only in Southeast Asian or Indian grocery stores. The dried shredded coconut, however, has significantly less flavor than the frozen or fresh forms and does not give the creamy texture that is desired in Indian curries and stews. If you only have access to dried unsweetened shredded coconut, soak ½ cup (50 g) of the dried coconut in ½ cup (125 ml) of boiling water for about 15 minutes. Drain the excess water before use. Note that ½ cup of dried coconut is comparable to 1 cup of freshly shredded or frozen shredded coconut.
Freshly shredded or grated coconut will provide the best flavor and texture in Indian dishes. This requires purchasing a coconut and cracking it apart at home. Here is how to grate fresh coconut at home: Start with a clean looking coconut without cracks or any overpowering or rancid smell. It should feel heavy and full of water. You can shake the coconut to hear the water swish. Place the coconut on a clean, heavy wooden cutting board or a clean concrete block. Holding the coconut in one hand, tap the coconut lightly on all sides with a hammer to dislodge the insides from the hard brown shell. Then carefully but forcefully hit the shell with the hammer to break it open. Now most of the hard shell should separate from the coconut. Carefully pry off the meat from the brown outer shell with the tip of a well-rounded, blunt knife. Grate the coconut meat using a handheld grater.
Coriander Leaves, Fresh Also known as cilantro, this annual in the parsley family is one of the most commonly used herbs in Indian cuisine. It is generally used uncooked for garnishes, marinades, and chutneys. Many dishes also incorporate fresh coriander leaves at various stages of cooking, a process that softens the sharp flavor and aroma of the herb. Fresh coriander leaves are highly perishable and prone to wilting. See “Storage Tips for Spices and Herbs,” page 12.
Coriander Seeds are ribbed peppercorn-sized and-shaped, pale green to light brown–colored seeds of the coriander (cilantro) plant. They are extremely aromatic, with a spicy hint. Their taste and aroma, however, are in no way similar to the leaves of the coriander plant. I always keep them in small quantities in airtight containers, as they lose their flavor with exposure and age. Coriander seeds are also available in a ground form.
Cucumbers Used widely in Indian kitchens, cucumbers can be served with any Indian meal. They can always be found in my refrigerator and are a summertime favorite. The cooling, clean flavor matches well with foods like chilies, cilantro, cream, garlic, lemon, lime, mint, olive oil, onions, sour cream, tomatoes, vinegar, and yogurt. I like to cut them into little finger-sized wedges and serve with a sprinkle of salt, black pepper, Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper, and a heavy dose of fresh squeezed lemon juice.
When purchasing cucumbers, look for a smooth, brightly colored skin. Cucumbers keep well in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to ten days. I prefer to use the long, seedless variety called “English cucumbers,” and though called seedless, they actually have very small seeds. They are usually sold shrink-wrapped. Unlike the common garden-variety salad cucumber, these cucumbers can be eaten without peeling or seeding.
Cumin Seeds These seeds are the best-known and most widely used spice in Indian cuisine. They are either fried whole in hot oil or dry roasted and then used whole or finely ground, depending on the recipe. Cumin is warm and intense and has an almost nutty aroma.
Curry Leaves Curry leaves originate from the kari tree, a sub-tropical tree native to India. They are used similarly to bay leaves—mainly as an aromatic and flavoring for most curries and soups. They are widely used in dishes along the southern coastal regions of India. When starting a curry or soup dish, curry leaves are placed in hot oil and fried until crisp, which makes the oil and the leaves intensely flavorful. In India, it is more common to use fresh curry leaves rather than dried ones. You can purchase fresh curry leaves in Indian grocery stores. Dried curry leaves can be purchased from specialty gourmet stores or online (see Shopping Guide, page 140). I recommend always buying fresh instead of dried leaves. The best way to store fresh curry leaves is to wash them and pat them mostly dry with a paper towel. Store refrigerated, wrapped in a paper towel inside a zip-lock bag. They will stay fresh for up to a month. For extended use, air dry them completely and store in an airtight container.
Dried Legumes (Lentils, Dried Beans, and Peas) In India, all types of dried legumes—be they lentils, peas or beans—are known as dals. They are an integral part of Indian meals, being economical; highly nutritious; very low in fat; and a good source of carbohydrates, proteins, fibers, minerals, and vitamins. Dals are a good substitute for meat, which has more fat and cholesterol. Many common varieties of dals, such as chickpeas (kabuli chana), kidney beans (rajmah), whole green lentils (sabut moong), and cow peas (black-eyed peas) are available in conventional supermarkets. Some not-so-common varieties used in Indian cooking include pigeon peas (toor dal), split black gram, aka “black lentils” (urad dal), split green lentils (moong dal), split red lentils (masoor dal), and split yellow peas (chana dal). For these, a trip to an Indian grocery store or an online purchase is necessary (see Shopping Guide, page 140).
Dal dishes come in various forms—thin and soupy (South Indian Lentils and Vegetables, page 56), thick and creamy (Homestyle Dal with Pumpkin, page 60), and hearty and comforting (Chickpea Curry with Sweet Potato, page 54)—and may be the basis of a salad (Chickpea, Mango and Watercress Salad, page 45).
There is nothing more comforting and soulful than a bowl of dal topped with some steamed rice. I incorporate dals into my everyday meals—both Indian and non-Indian. I cook my dried legumes the old fashioned way in my kitchen, using a pressure cooker. Though this technique is not so popular in North American and Europe, I urge you to give pressure cooking a try: It uses less liquid, has faster cooking times, and the food retains more vitamins and minerals. I can assure you that once you get used to a pressure cooker, you will be eating more dals as part of your daily meals, especially the longer-cooking types. Anticipating that not everyone will have a pressure cooker or be inclined to use one, the recipes in this book call for common kitchenware, such as saucepans or pots. If you want to experiment with a pressure cooker, simply follow the instructions provided with it; you will find that cooking time is reduced by more than 50 percent!
I often stock my pantry with canned legumes, which I find to be an acceptable substitute for dried, and very convenient when I’m in a rush. For the dal recipes in this book, I include the option of using commonly available canned peas or beans. Make sure to drain and rinse them thoroughly before using them.
Fennel Seeds These are the oval, pale greenish-yellow seeds of the common fennel plant, a member of parsley family. They are sweetly aromatic and have an anise-like flavor. In Indian cooking, they are used whole and ground in both sweet and savory dishes. Roasted fennel seeds are sometimes sugarcoated and chewed as a digestive and mouth freshener after Indian meals. They are readily available in most grocery stores.
Fenugreek Leaves Known as methi when fresh and kasoori methi when dried, these leaves are extensively used in Indian cuisine. The slightly perfumed and bitter flavor of the leaves goes very well with curries. The leaves are sold fresh when in season or dried in packets year round in Indian markets. The dried leaves can also be purchased online (see Shopping Guide, page 140). Frozen chopped fenugreek greens are also now available at some Indian grocery stores. I use the dried version—kasoori methi—in the recipes in this book because of its unique flavor and strong taste. In comparison, fresh methi (young leaves and sprouts of fenugreek) has a very mild flavor. When fresh, the leaves are eaten as greens and are commonly cooked with potatoes, spinach, and paneer and eaten with roti or naan (breads). The dried leaves have a bitter taste and strong aroma and are used in small amounts to flavor dishes. There is no real substitute for this ingredient in Indian recipes, and so I have made its use optional throughout the book.
Fenugreek Seeds The fenugreek seeds are bitter, yellowish-brown, tiny seeds that provide commercial curry powders their distinctive aroma. They are used in small quantities because of their strong flavor. In the southern part of India, the seeds are often oil-roasted and then ground to create a bitter balance in curries; in eastern India, the seeds are stir-fried whole. They are available only in Southeast Asian or Indian grocery stores.
Garlic A close relative to onions, shallots, and leeks, garlic has been used throughout recorded history for both culinary and medicinal purposes. It has a characteristic pungent, spicy flavor that mellows and sweetens considerably with cooking. Garlic powder is not a substitute for fresh garlic in traditional Indian cooking. Whole bulbs of garlic will keep for several months or more when stored at room temperature in a dry, dark place that has ample air circulation. Keep in mind, however, that garlic’s shelf life decreases once you start removing cloves from the bulb. Storing garlic uncovered, such as in a wire-mesh basket inside your cupboard is ideal. You can also store garlic in a paper or mesh bag. Just be sure there is plenty of dry air and little light to inhibit sprouting. To avoid mold, do not refrigerate or store garlic in plastic bags.
Ginger A knobby, pale-brown rhizome of a perennial tropical plant, ginger is available fresh, dried, ground into a powder and as a preserved stem. Ground ginger or preserved ginger is almost never used in Indian cooking. Fresh ginger root has no aroma, but once you peel or cut it, it emits a warm, woody aroma with citrus undertones. When used fresh, it has a peppery hot bite to it. Fresh ginger is used throughout India and is a very common ingredient in Indian cooking. It is often ground into a paste, finely chopped, or made into juice. We use chopped ginger to stir-fry vegetables, crushed ginger or ginger paste in meat stews and legumes, and thinly sliced slivers of raw ginger to sprinkle over curries just before serving. While shopping for fresh ginger, look for a hard and heavy root that snaps easily into pieces. Avoid dry, shriveled roots that feel light for their size. Keep fresh ginger in the refrigerator crisper in a plastic bag with a paper towel to absorb moisture (to prevent mold, change the towel occasionally). The root will last for two or three weeks. To extend its life, you can freeze ginger. You don’t even need to defrost it, and ginger is much easier to grate when frozen.
Ghee This is the Indian version of clarified butter—that is, butter from which milk solids are removed. Ghee is one of the primary cooking fats used in India. Unlike regular clarified butter, the process of making ghee involves melting the butter over a low heat and then simmering it until all the moisture has evaporated, and the milk solids have separated from the fat. The milk solids are then removed, leaving a pure fat that is excellent for deep-frying because of its high smoke point. I just love the way ghee infuses food with a delicious flavor and aroma. It has a buttery and a nutty flavor. I often add a few drops to hot rice dishes, dals, and curries as finishing oil. Ghee has a very long shelf life and at room temperature will keep for 4–6 months. Store it in a clean, airtight plastic or glass jar. Ghee is commonly available in Indian grocery stores and is typically sold in glass or plastic jars as a solid, butter-like fat. In many recipes in this book, I have called for ghee, which I feel brings out the best flavor of those dishes. If you do not have ghee, substitute a mixture of equal parts of unsalted butter and neutral-flavored oil.
To Make Ghee at Home: Melt 1 lb (450 g) of unsalted butter in a heavy-bottomed, medium-size saucepan over medium-low heat. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the milk solids turn a rich golden color and settle to the bottom of the pan, about 15–20 minutes. Initially, the butter will foam and as it simmers the foam will subside. Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth or muslin into a sterilized jar. This recipe makes about 2 cups (500 ml) of ghee. Note: Use either one 12-in (30-cm) square piece of fine muslin or four layers of cheesecloth.
Lentils see Dried Legumes
Mangoes This fruit is native to the Indian sub-continent, where it has been grown for more than 4,000 years. Because the mango seed can’t be dispersed naturally by wind or water, owing to its large size and weight, it is believed that people who moved from one region to another transported the fruit to new areas. Though mango cultivation has now spread to many parts of the tropical and sub-tropical world, including Brazil, Mexico, the West Indies, and parts of Florida, nearly half of the world’s mangoes are cultivated in India alone.
Mangoes are widely used in Indian cuisine. The green, unripe mangoes are sour and are used to make chutneys, pickles, and sometimes side dishes such as Chickpea, Mango, and Watercress Salad (page 45). As a chef’s tip, I say when you make salads calling for a crunchy vegetable like carrots or radishes, replace them with green, unripe mangoes for a unique tangy twist. Green, unripe mangoes are also eaten raw with a sprinkle of salt and Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper, which is my favorite way to eat them. Chilled Mango Cooler (page 132), a very popular and refreshing summer drink, is made with green, unripe mangoes blended with water, mint, sugar, salt, cumin, and ice.
Ripe mangoes are typically eaten fresh. Mango Lassi (page 133), made by adding mango pulp to yogurt, is the most popular drink in India and Indian restaurants worldwide. Ripe mangoes are used to make desserts as well as savory curries. Aamras—sweetened, thick, ripe mango pulp with the flavor of cardamom—is a popular dish in western India that is served along with Fried Puffed Bread (page 125). The Alfonso mango is considered the sweetest and best of all the eating mangoes. For some recipes, I use canned Alfonso mango purée (available in Indian grocery stores) when fresh ones are not in season.
When shopping for ripe mangoes, look for fruit with unblemished yellow skin with a red tinge or blush. You should avoid mangoes that have bruises or soft spots. You can buy green mangoes and ripen them at home by placing them in a brown paper bag on your counter for a week. Ripe mangoes will last 2–3 days at room temperature or for up to 5 days in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.
You can find green mangoes in most Indian, Southeast Asian, or South American markets. When shopping for green mangoes, make sure they are firm and their skins are dark green in color and unblemished. Store them at room temperature uncovered. They will last about 2 weeks.
Mint An aromatic, almost exclusively perennial herb with a very refreshing taste, fresh mint is used in Indian marinades, chutneys, drinks, and desserts and in curries and rice dishes. I also use dried mint for making breads in my kitchen. Chopped fresh mint leaves steeped in a cup of hot water with tea and honey is one of my favorite after-dinner beverages. The spearmint variety is most commonly used in Indian cooking. When purchasing mint, make sure the leaves are fresh and green in color without black spots or cracks. See “Storage Tips for Spices and Herbs,” page 12.
Mustard Seeds These tiny, round, hot and pungent seeds are from an annual plant in the cabbage family. They are available in white, yellow, brown, or black colors. The white seeds, the largest type, are used to make commercial mustards in the United States; the yellow and brown seeds are used for European mustards and for pickling. In India, the black seeds are used in cooking and are the source of commonly used oil. Black mustard seeds are used whole and in powdered form. The whole seeds are used in vegetables dishes, curries, appetizers, salads, and dried legumes, while the powder is used to flavor steamed fish, pickles, and, again, curries. Mustard seeds are available at Indian grocery stores and online (see Shopping Guide, page 140).
Oils and Fats In Indian kitchens, oil is used alone or in combination with ghee (clarified butter) to fry flavorings at the start of cooking or to deep-fry foods. The oil used depends on the culture and region. When I call for oil, you may use any neutral-flavored vegetable oil (for example, canola, safflower, or corn oil). In addition to using unflavored oils, Indians use toasted sesame oil, coconut oil, and peanut and mustard oils to impart distinct flavors to dishes. I have not used these oils in my recipes because some are hard to find and they give a very distinct flavor to the food, which, though popular in India, can be an acquired taste for non-Indians. When I call for oil for deep-frying, it’s important to use an oil that is relatively stable at high temperatures, such as peanut or safflower oil. Olive oil, which is a very healthy oil, can also be used to cook Indian food.
Paprika Known as kashmiri mirch in India, paprika is a red powder made from dried, mild, non-pungent chili peppers. It is mainly used for the rich red hue it adds to curries. When added to hot oil, it immediately releases a deep red color. Most Indian paprika comes from Kashmir, hence the name. Kashmiri mirch is available at Indian grocery stores or online (see Shopping Guide, page 140). The easily available, mild Hungarian paprika is a good substitute.
Peppercorns These are one of the oldest-known spices and are often referred to as the king of spices. Peppercorns are the berries of the pepper plant, a branching evergreen creeper that grows mainly in the hot and humid monsoon forests of southwest India. The plant is indigenous to India and dates back to 4,000 BCE. The very tangy, slightly hot berries grow like clusters of grapes on the pepper plant. Peppercorns range in color from white to green to black. White peppercorns are picked ripe, and their outer skin is removed. Green peppercorns are underripe berries that are cured in brine. Black peppercorns are picked underripe and allowed to dry until dark black. Black peppercorns are most commonly used and impart an incredible flavor to all curries. The world’s top quality black pepper is grown in Indian in the southwest coastal state of Kerala and is known as Tellicherry pepper. The recipes in this book call for dry and oil-roasted, ground and crushed black peppercorns.
Pulses see Dried Legumes
Rice is an indispensable part of Indian meals. It is served as a staple alongside curries and dals and is eaten at least twice a day in India. There are many distinctive kinds of rice grown and sold in the Indian subcontinent. For everyday meals, the type of rice used varies from region to region. While people in southern regions prefer the locally available red rice or long-grain variety, northerners prefer aromatic Basmati rice, which grows in the foothills of the Himalayas.
One of my favorite varieties of rice, which I grew up eating, is medium-grain parboiled rice known as “red boiled rice” or “rosematta rice.” It is made by parboiling the rice before husking. After parboiling, the grain is separated from the husk, thereby leaving a part of the bran on the grain and giving the rice its red or reddish-brown color. It can then be boiled like any other form of rice, though it takes twice as long to cook and often requires more water. I have not used it in this book because it is only available at Indian grocery stores or online. If you do run across it and would like to try it, I recommend serving it with dishes from the southwest of India, and in particular with Kerala-Style Chicken Stew (page 94) and Goan-Style Mackerel (page 89).
Basmati, which means “queen of fragrance” in Hindi, is the most popular and the best-known rice of India, and the most expensive. It has a wonderful fragrance when cooked with whole spices and is a good match for all Indian dishes. Basmati rice is always used for puloas and biriyanis—two types of rice dishes—for it absorbs flavors beautifully and yet keeps its shape during cooking. Basmati rice, though preferred, is not absolutely necessary for simpler rice preparations, such as Lemon Rice with Peanuts (page 114) or Coconut Rice (page 112). Whereas Basmati rice needs to be soaked prior to being rinsed and drained, ordinary long-grain rice only needs to be rinsed and drained.
Rosewater or rose syrup is the leftover liquid remaining when rose petals and water are distilled together. It imparts an intoxicating fragrance of roses to rice dishes, desserts, and drinks. Considered very auspicious for its aroma, it is also diluted with water and sprinkled at various religious and cultural ceremonies in India. A teaspoonful may be added to desserts like Milk Dumplings in Saffron Syrup (page 129), and drinks like Mango Lassi (page 133), meat dishes like Lamb Shank Korma (page 104), or to rice dishes to create a unique taste and aroma. It is available in Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores.
Saffron These intense yellow-orange threads are the dried, orange to deep-red stigmas of the small, purple saffron crocus flower, a member of the iris family. It is the world’s most expensive spice as it takes almost 75,000 handpicked blossoms to make one pound of saffron. Use saffron sparingly as it just takes four to five strands to flavor a dish that feeds four. It has a distinctly warm, rich, powerful, and intense flavor. It is available in strands or ground. I recommend the strands for the sake of more assured quality. Gently heat saffron on a dry skillet before using, as heat brings out its aroma. There is no acceptable substitute for saffron. It is available in Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores, gourmet stores, and online (see Shopping Guide, page 140).
Salt The most common salt in North America is table salt. It is very fine in texture and is often supplemented with iodine. Table salt, when compared to kosher or sea salt, is much “saltier.” Sea salt is the most popular salt in Indian cooking. Measurements used in the recipes in this book are for common table salt. If you prefer kosher or sea salt, you will most likely need to increase the amount by 10 to 15 percent. However, it is always a good idea to taste and check for seasoning before adding more.
Black Salt kala namak Contrary to its name, powdered black salt is purplish pink. It is an unrefined sea salt with a very strong and sulfurous taste. It is available in rock or powder form and is very traditional to India. Its distinctive, earthy flavor and aroma help to bring out the flavor in relishes, salads, raitas, and snacks. It is an essential ingredient in making Chaat Masala (page 22). Black salt is a better choice for those on a low-sodium diet because of its lower sodium content. It is available in Indian grocery stores. Feel adventurous? Try sprinkling ¼ teaspoon of black salt, a pinch of black pepper, and squeeze of fresh lime to a chilled glass of Pepsi or Coke to enjoy a masala cola, a popular Indian street-style summer drink.
Star Anise This dried, star-shaped, dark-brown pod contains licorice-flavored seeds. The pods grow on an evergreen tree that is a member of the magnolia family. Star anise is used to flavor and add an enticing aroma to both sweet and savory dishes. It is often used on its own or ground with different spices to make blends. This spice is available at Indian and Asian grocery stores, online (see Shopping Guide, page 140), and at many conventional supermarkets.
Sesame Seeds These tiny seeds are harvested from a flowering plant that grows widely in tropical regions around the world and is cultivated for its edible seeds. Whole or ground white sesame seeds are used in savory Indian dishes, breads, and many sweets. Sometimes the seeds are toasted to heighten their nutty flavor. They come in a host of different colors, depending on the variety, including white, yellow, black, and red. In general, the paler varieties of sesame are used in the West and Middle East, while the black varieties are more common in the East. They are available in most grocery stores.
Tamarind This is the curved, brown bean pod of the tamarind tree. The pod contains a sticky pulp enclosing one to twelve shiny black seeds. It is the pulp that is used as a flavoring for its sweet-and-sour fruity aroma and taste. It is used in chutneys, preserves, and curries. Tamarind is available in South Asian grocery stores, natural foods stores, and some conventional supermarkets in one or more of the following three ways: in pod form; pressed into a fibrous dried slab; and in jars of tamarind “paste” or “concentrate,” which has a jam-like consistency. I use the tamarind paste in the recipes in this book simply because it is the most convenient form to use and is fairly easy to find.
Alternatively, to create tamarind juice from the dried slab, soak a walnut-size chunk of the dried pulp (this is equivalent to 1 teaspoon tamarind paste) in ½ cup (125 ml) of warm water for 15 minutes. After soaking the pulp in water, break it up with your fingers and then mash it with a fork until the liquid is muddy brown in appearance. Strain this mixture before use through a fine-mesh strainer. Using the back of spoon, mash and push the pulp through the fine-mesh strainer to extract any remaining juice.
Turmeric It is a rhizome of a tropical plant in the ginger family. The fresh root is boiled, peeled, sun-dried, and ground into a bright yellow-orange powder. Ground turmeric has a warm, peppery aroma—reminiscent of ginger—and a strong, bitter taste that mellows with cooking. It is used to color many curries or as a “poor man’s substitute” for saffron since it imparts a similar color; the taste, however, is quite different.
Yogurt Thick and creamy yogurt is made every day in homes across the Indian subcontinent and it is an important part of every meal. It is most commonly enjoyed plain as a mild contrast to spicy foods. Raitas—cooling salads made with yogurt and crunchy vegetables—are very popular. Yogurt is often churned into cooling drinks with spices and is the base for many desserts. In savory cooking, its main role is as a souring agent, though it also aids digestion. In India it is customary to end a meal with either plain yogurt mixed with rice or a glass of Indian spiced “buttermilk” (thinned yogurt with salt, green chilies, ginger, and salt) common in south India. The best yogurt for the recipes in this book is a thick, plain, natural yogurt made from whole milk. Look for organic, whole-milk yogurt for the best consistency and flavor.
