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ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Spain, with Portugal, occupies that mountainous square of south-west Europe known as the Iberian Peninsula. It is a country of variety and contrasts for which many claims are made, but one thing is certain: Spain offers some of the best cycling available in Europe.
Forget the non-stop coastal resorts built for packaged pleasure. The cyclist’s Spain is not that of the costas, those narrow coastal strips trapped between mountains and sea where millions head for their summer holidays, but of the country where Spaniards actually live, work and play. A world of villages, small towns and vibrant cities, wooded hills and snow-capped mountains, wide valleys and narrow gorges, immense plains, Moorish palaces, Roman ruins and Gothic cathedrals, cave paintings and the works of Picasso, El Greco and Dali, sunshine and warmth, orange and olive groves, small shops and family hotels, a place of history and constant reinvention where Europe and Africa meet; a country that, in short, rewards its visitors.
Roads
Spain is almost as large as France, considerably bigger than Germany, and more than twice the size of the United Kingdom. Spain would take third place in a league table of the American states, behind Texas but ahead of California. The population density is higher than that of the Scandinavian countries, but one-third that of the United Kingdom and Germany and one-sixth that of the Netherlands.
As a result Spanish roads are far quieter than those of most other European countries. A spate of recent and ongoing road building means that much of the heavy traffic keeps to the newer, more convenient roads, leaving cyclists to share the old ones with local traffic. Not that ‘heavy traffic’ in rural areas is a particular problem; on mountain roads no more than five cars per hour can be expected.
Road surfaces are generally very good. The vast majority of new and upgraded roads include a metre-wide lined strip suitable for cycling where traffic is heavy, but otherwise the main carriageways are fine. Regional dual carriageways have a wide hard shoulder for cycling and many have cycle lanes with a specially prepared surface.
The general standard of driving is very good. Motorists do tend to bide their time and wait for a safe place to pass, though a suitable spot can take an embarrassingly long time to materialise. Only mopeds and scooters tend to be a noisy annoyance. Police clampdowns have certainly improved the behaviour of moped and scooter riders and have encouraged the wearing of crash helmets. Having said that, 3642 people were killed on Spanish roads in 1999. A quarter of those deaths occurred during the peak holiday months of July and August when most Spaniards take holidays in the country areas. Annual cyclist fatalities ranged from 78 to 122 per year during the 1990s.
Spain is hilly. If it were levelled off it would leave an immense plateau some 600m high, the altitude of its capital Madrid. The highest mountain in peninsular Spain is Mulhacén (3482m) in the Sierra Nevada, and the Sierra de Gredos to the west of Madrid climbs to over 2500m. The mountain passes can also be very high: in the Sierra Nevada the Veleta road reaches 3200m, while in the Sierra de Guadarrama the Puerto de Navacerrada is at 1860m. The roads are generally well graded (particularly the new ones), using distance not gradient to gain height gradually, so do not expect to have to push very often except where climbs are long. Expect roads in the mountains to climb 50 or 60m/km. There are none of the very steep gradients found in England’s Pennines or North York Moors.
With long relentless climbs come long descents, and those lasting 15 or 20km are quite common. Often hard persistent pedalling uphill is amply rewarded with panoramic vistas at the col and scenic revelations during the freewheeling descents. By contrast once away from the mountains the plains can be very flat, and even when undulating allow good, fast travelling.
Climate
Spain can be divided into three main climatic regions: Atlantic Ocean; Mediterranean Sea; the mountains and the plains. See Appendix 1 for temperature and rainfall figures.
The north and north-west are influenced by the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean, particularly in autumn and winter with low-pressure systems sweeping in. Summers are cooler, cloudier and wetter than the rest of the country; rainfall decreases further east. The north-west is known as Green Spain for a good reason; look at the figures for Finisterre and Santander to understand why.
Central Spain has low rainfall, but winter snow can linger on the mountains. Spring is the wettest season, and by midsummer the country has turned from green to brown and feels dry and parched. Summers are hot (and longer the further south you go) and winters can be bitingly cold, particularly in the north. Average midday temperatures for the summer months in Seville reach over 35°C and in Madrid over 30°C. However, while Seville basks in mild winter temperatures Madrid suffers from the bitter cold.
The south and east coasts are influenced by the Mediterranean climate, with lots of sunshine all year round, hot summers and mild winters. The driest area is Almería. It is wetter further north, and also west towards Gibraltar. Barcelona has a wetter autumn than winter.
Cerro Pelado, Sierra de Guadarrama (Route 5)
Deva valley from Invernales de Igüedri (Route 8)
Average temperatures hide the substantial day-to-day variations that can occur. In addition to the air temperature the effect of the heat from the sun should be taken into account. When the average daily maximum exceeds 25°C the heat can become overpowering and cycling uncomfortable. But remember that compared to walking or running cycling creates its own cooling breeze. The cooling effect kicks in above 12km/hr but does not remove the need for protection against sunburn. Only on stopping does the importance of shade become clear. Cycling in the mountains can be cooler; expect a drop of 1°C for every 100m gain in altitude.
When planning a trip think carefully about the best time of year. Depending on how much heat you like consider Andalucía and the south in autumn, winter and spring, Madrid and the centre in spring and autumn, and the north in summer. By chasing the sun it is possible to enjoy pleasant warm cycling all year round. Appendix 1 will help you decide when to go, and every part of Spain has a window of suitability. However, if things do get a little too hot try the following tactics.
Keep out of the sun whenever possible.
Wear light clothing that allows the movement of air over the body.
Acclimatise to the heat in advance: try some rides when it is hot at home. If this proves to be insuffient preparation try overdressing slightly to help train the body’s cooling mechanisms. A body acclimatised to the heat will start sweating at a lower temperature and sweat in greater volume. See ‘Eating and Drinking en route’, below, for information on how to keep hydrated. Heat stroke and exposure are dealt with in ‘Coping with extreme weather’.
You can always avoid the worst of the heat by taking a siesta. Siestas developed in rural Spain when workers conformed to the rhythms of nature: work would start early when it was cool, and as temperatures rose workers would stop to take a hearty meal and a couple of hours’ rest. Work would be finished off in the late afternoon and early evening when temperatures had dropped and the heat was out of the sun. Although this habit has become less popular in big cities, in rural areas and small towns shops still tend to close for much of the afternoon. There is a noticeable quietening down between 2 and 5pm, so find a shady spot and have a kip.
Spain is one hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time in winter and two hours ahead in summer. The transition from day to night is surprisingly quick. Even with good-quality lights night-time cycling is not fun, and as the sun sets the warmth also disappears. Try to finish cycling before sunset or at worst within 30min of it. Appendix 2 gives sunrise and sunset times across Spain. Please note that the times are based on a flat horizon and so may vary locally depending on whether you are in a valley or on top of a hill.
Holidays and Public Holidays
The Spanish take their summer holidays in July and particularly August. It’s a good time to visit Spanish cities, which are quieter than usual, with many businesses shutting up shop, although temperatures will be at their highest. Conversely the countryside becomes busier. Booking accommodation in advance during this period is highly recommended.
There are 10 National Holidays in Spain (see below). Public holidays falling on a weekend are not moved. When they fall midweek extra days are often taken to bridge the gap; such holidays are known as puentes. Public Holidays and particularly puentes see an exodus to the country. Accommodation fills up, making booking in advance advisable.
In addition every Provincial Government and most cities have their own holidays, and these are detailed in each cycle tour.
Public holidays in Spain
| 1 January | New Year’s Day |
| 6 January | Epiphany or Reyes Magos |
| variable date | Good Friday |
| 1 May | May Day |
| 15 August | Assumption of the Virgin |
| 12 October | National Day |
| 1 November | All Saints |
| 6 December | Día de la Constitución |
| 8 December | Immaculate Conception |
| 25 December | Christmas Day |
A Short History
One of the great joys of touring in Spain is discovering and enjoying the architecture, art and cuisine that have resulted from a number of influences that have flowed across the Iberian Peninsula during its turbulent history. The earliest Iberian people were Palaeolithic cave-dwelling invaders from France to the north who left behind them the cave paintings found in the western Pyrenees and around the Bay of Biscay. It is believed that these hunter-gatherers stayed largely in the north of the peninsula.
In the south, Neolithic people from north Africa settled in Alméria between 4000 and 3000BC. They were farmers, living in villages, and by 1000BC these Iberians had spread out to become the dominant inhabitants of the peninsula to which they gave their name. Celts and Germanic peoples from France joined the Iberians to form the Celtiberians in north, west and central Spain.
Alhama de Granada, the old town built high on top of a cliff (Route 3)
The Phoenicians arrived by sea around 1100BC and founded Cádiz and Málaga. These coastal-dwelling people traded widely, particularly in metals, and were joined by Greeks who also established coastal trading colonies.
Around 250BC the Carthaginians came from Sicily to conquer parts of Spain, and founded Barcelona and Cartagena. This heralded the arrival of the Romans, who by 206BC had driven the Carthaginians out. Spain was very important economically and culturally to the Romans, who colonised the country over the next two centuries.
Three centuries later, as the Roman Empire crumbled from within, the barbarian tribes swept in from the north. They were followed by the Visigoths, allies of Rome, and by AD573 they had taken over.
However, in AD711 an army of Berbers invaded from north Africa, and by 718 the Moors had overrun Spain except for parts of the north-west. ‘Moor’ is a term applied to any Berber or Arab settler, while ‘Mozarabs’ were Jews and Christians who kept their faith under the Moors. Initially ruled from Baghdad, the Moors soon established Córdoba as their centre, but this unified rule only lasted until 1031 when the country split into a number of independent kingdoms.
Oseja de Sajambre (Route 8)
Just as the Moors were at their territorial greatest the Catholic Reconquest started from the north-west. It moved south in fits and starts, no doubt aided by antagonism between the independent Moorish states. Brief periods of unity under the Almoravids and then the Almohads stalled the Reconquest. It was completed when Los Reyes Católicos, Fernando and Isabella, captured Granada in 1492. In the same year Isabella sent Christopher Columbus to search for a westward route to the Indies, only to come across the Americas. It was Los Reyes Católicos who started the Inquisition and ordered the expulsion of nearly all the Spanish Jews.
In 1516 the Hapsburgs came to the throne through the marriage of Carlos V. When elected Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire he also acquired Flanders, Holland and the Americas. Felipe II centralised the Spanish Empire from the newly built palace of El Escorial near Madrid. It was his support of Mary Queen of Scots that led to the Armada in 1588. The War of Spanish Succession was caused when the Bourbon Felipe V came to the throne in 1700 in competition with Charles of Austria who was supported by the British. Spain lost its European territories and the British took possession of Gibraltar in 1714. Nearly a century later, under the influence of France, the Spanish Fleet was destroyed at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. This defeat created a power vacuum and Napoleon installed his brother Joseph as king; his reign ended shortly afterwards with the Peninsular War.
The remainder of the 19th and early 20th centuries saw a mixture of monarchy, dictatorship and republican governance. The Second Republic was declared in 1931 and in 1936 the Popular Front won power. Strikes and peasant uprisings led to turmoil, and in July of that year Franco and his garrison in Morocco rebelled. The bloody and bitter Civil War that subsequently took place lasted until 1939.
Franco’s fascist Falangist government ruled until his death in 1975 when he was succeeded by King Juan Carlos. Reforms were hesitant, but democracy was restored in the elections of June 1977, and cemented when Juan Carlos refused to support the attempted coup lead by Colonel Antonio Tejero in 1981. EU membership came in 1986 and adoption of the Euro in 1999.
Getting There
Getting to Spain with a bike is surprisingly simple. There are many long-established scheduled and charter airlines flying to Spain from all over the world. Since the mid-1990s various no-frills budget airlines have emerged in Europe, led by the likes of EasyJet and Ryanair, later joined by bmibaby and Jet2. These carriers concentrate on short-haul routes and continue to expand throughout Europe and beyond. As well as bringing more competition to the market they are more flexible than charter airlines and offer one-way tickets at no extra cost, making airport-to-airport routes feasible. From the USA the options are more limited, and for many scheduled airlines will often be the only way.
Noviales (Route 6)
Air travel is the quickest and can be the cheapest and most flexible way of getting to and from Spain. Flying direct is best in that bikes are more likely to arrive – and to arrive intact. Most airlines will carry a bike, but most have a policy of levying an additional fee, require advance booking and the signing of a waiver, and insist that it is packed in a bike bag or a box. Check at the time of booking what the conditions are as well as what is acceptable in terms of the bag or box. Often a telephone booking is required. A number of airlines will not guarantee that you will travel on the same flight as your bike. In addition a number of airports add their own requirements for the carriage of bikes. The situation is fluid so it is worth checking with the airports concerned or have a look at the various forums on cycling websites such as www.ctc.org.uk or www.bikeradar.com. If you have any doubts print off a copy of the airline’s instructions and also email the airport for their rules. Storage of bags or boxes in Spain can be a problem as only Madrid and Barcelona airports have left-luggage (consigna) facilities. Car hire depots and hotels used for first/last night stays are often helpful.
All bikes need to be prepared for a journey by air. Allow plenty of time for this at both ends. Packing is particular to each type of bike bag or box, but the following guidance should help particularly those using a bag. Remove the wheels and place in their pockets. Remove the pedals and re-insert them on the inside of the cranks; position the cranks so that one pedal is inside the frame triangle and the other protrudes below the chainring. This will protect the chainring teeth. Turn the handlebars through 90° to reduce width and lower them. Rotating the handlebars will give protection to brake levers and gear changers. Lower the seat. If possible remove the rear derailleur and tape it inside the rear pannier rack. Some carriers expect you to deflate the tyres. Secure pumps and other accessories. Packing tape can be very useful.
If camping, there are a number of items which must not be carried on an aircraft, all of which can be easily obtained in Spain. Complete lists are available from the airline. Aiport staff will check to see if you are carrying something forbidden. The list includes compressed gases (such as used in camping stoves), flammable liquids and solids (such as methylated spirits and solid fuel) and friction matches (but not safety matches). If taking a decent knife or any sharp or pointed objects put them in your hold luggage as they are likely to be confiscated during baggage checks and will not be allowed into the cabin. Bar locks too are best placed in hold luggage as airport staff can take exception to them as hand luggage. Take all valuables – expensive items and those that cannot be replaced – into the cabin as hand luggage. Tools must travel as hold luggage.
See Appendix 4 for further details on travelling to Spain by air.
Getting Around
This book has been written on the premise that entry into Spain will be via one of the main airports. A number of the routes start or finish some distance from any airport, and for these routes railway stations have been used instead. To get there from the airport one of the following options can be used; these are described in more detail within each tour.
Railways
Bicycles are accepted on regional and long distance trains if there is either sufficient space in the carriage or a specific area for them. At the time of writing there is no easy way to find out which train services will take bikes so it is a case of calling RNFE direct. Cercanías, urban and suburban trains will take bikes with few restrictions and these are detailed on the RENFE website. High speed intercity trains (AVE) do not carry bikes.
RENFE is the state-owned railway (tel: 0034 90 22 40 20 2 [Spain] or at www.renfe.com). FEVE runs trains from Bilbao along the northern coast to Ferrol and allows bikes on all its trains although sometimes with limits as to numbers (tel: 0034 94 42 50 61 5).
Another agent that can organise tickets and give advice is Rail Europe, tel: 08448 484 064 (UK) or 1 800 361 RAIL (Canada) or 1 888 622 8600 (US) or www.raileurope.com.
Inter-city coaches
Coaches will usually take bikes but may insist they are bagged or boxed. There is often a limit to the number per bus. A fee is usually charged. Be early for your connection and be prepared to do all your own loading. For many of the smaller companies the reservation will have to be made in person and ensure that it is clear that you are taking a bike. The coach network is extensive and often connects directly with airport terminals, ports and city centres. movelia (www.movelia.es) run an industry-wide information and booking service. Companies with known policies are:
Alsa (www.alsa.es) permit booking of tickets and reservations online. To access the bike booking facility passengers must be booked one at a time. Should the facility not appear then it is not available or the bus is full up. There is a limit of four bikes per bus.
Socibus (www.socibus.es) allow bikes subject to available space.
Avanza (www.avanzabus.com) allow bikes subject to available space.
Car hire
One-way car hire is probably the most convenient method of linking airports to tour starts and finishes. Expect to find all the major car hire companies at all the airports, but not necessarily at all the start and finish points, so check before making a reservation.
Making reservations in advance of travel often saves money. However, prices can vary by as much as 50%, so compare prices from several companies before booking. Check what is included in the prepaid price and what is charged locally. Look for mileage limits, insurance and the levels of any excess, Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), bail bond, theft waiver, airport levies, taxes and cost of extra drivers. Confirm age limits of drivers – sometimes they have to be over 25 – and cleanness and type of driving licence. Always check what is being signed for, and always check the condition of the car for dents, scratches and missing items. Any faults must be reported to the car hire company and recorded before setting off. Expect the fuel tank to be full at collection and hand it back full on return or pay heavily for the fuel used. Some operators include a full tank and expect it back empty.
Invernales de Igüedri on the approach to the Puertos de Aliva (Route 8)
The miners’ track traversing the Sierra de la Corta (Route 8)
A medium-size five-door hatchback such as a Ford Focus or Renault Megane with the rear seat folded down will easily take two bikes with the wheels removed. If the hire company can provide a bike carrier or roof bars then a smaller car could be used, or more people carried per car. See Appendix 6 for details of car hire companies operating widely in Spain.
Passports, Visas, Health Care and Insurance
A full passport valid for the period of stay is required for entry into Spain. For citizens of EU states that issue National ID cards (as well as Switzerland, Andorra, Monaco and Liechtenstein) the card will suffice. For stays of over 90 days a residence permit is required. For stays of up to a year a temporary permit will suffice; longer stays require a permanent permit. Applications can be made at the Aliens Office of the province in which the residence is to be or at the relevant provincial police station.
Citizens of EU states, Norway, Switzerland and Iceland do not require visas. Holders of passports issued by Canada, Australia, Japan and the USA do not require visas for stays of up to 90 days. For longer stays check with the nearest consulate. Other citizens should check visa requirements.
For emergency services ring 112: this is an EU-wide number that accesses emergency services with the operator speaking your language. The national number for the police is 091. Visitors from EU states receive free medical care from the Spanish Health Service. A European Health Insurance Card is required before travelling. Make applications in the UK at www.ehic.org.uk, tel: 0845 606 2030, or via a form from the post office. If you have a medical condition consider carrying a letter from your doctor, giving details and translated into Spanish. Pharmacies can be a great help if you fall ill and can usually find someone who can speak English fluently. They will also have up-to-date knowledge of local doctors.
Although health care may be free for some there can be considerable incidental expenses, and it is always advisable to get adequate holiday insurance. Prices vary considerably and buying it from your travel agent is rarely the cheapest way; try your bank or insurance broker. Depending on how often you travel annual insurance can be very good value. Family cover is often available to those who share the same address and substantial discounts if you opt out of luggage and possessions cover providing these are covered under household policy; it is far easier to claim on household than travel insurance. Check the cover and exclusions before signing up.
Campo de Zafarraya, a fertile plain surrounded by limestone hills (Route 3)
Mobile Phones
There is excellent mobile phone coverage of the whole of Spain, including the Balearic Islands and the Canaries, using the GSM standard (GSM900 and 1800, 3G 2100). It is advisable to check the roaming abilities of your phone with your service provider. Some prepay phones will not permit talk but will allow text messaging. Most service providers have reciprocal arrangements with Spanish-based providers that can significantly reduce call charges. This will usually entail a small service charge covering the period of use and will have to be set up in advance.
Use of your mobile phone in Spain replicates use at home. To call a land line the number starts with the area code; all area codes start with 9. All Spanish mobile numbers start with 6. For international numbers ring 00 or + followed by the country code, area code then telephone number.
Money and Banks
Spain is an excellent good-value destination, with very reasonable costs of living and accommodation. Expect to get by comfortably on around 50 Euros/£40/US$60 (if sharing rooms) to 65 Euros/£50/US$80 per person per day. Add more for wild partying and upmarket quality hotels!
The road between Ansó and Hecho climbs through the Sierra de Vedao (Route 7)
Ochagavía and the Río Anduña (Route 7)
The currency of Spain is the Euro, which fully replaced the peseta on 28 February 2002 (there were 166.386 pesetas to the Euro). One Euro = 100 cents; coins come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 cents and 1 and 2 Euros; notes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 Euro denominations. Euros are also used in Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Portugal, Slovakia and Slovenia. The exchange rate against sterling, the dollar and other currencies is variable.
Banking hours are typically 09:00 to 14:00 on weekdays and 09:00 to 13:00 on Saturdays. All towns and many of the larger villages have banks and most have cash point machines/autotellers that allow cash withdrawals by Visa, MasterCard and many debit cards. Your own bank will be able to advise which ones will work. Interest on cash withdrawals on a credit card is usually charged immediately. Banks and larger hotels will change sterling and dollars for Euros.
Credit cards are widely accepted in most (but not all) shops, hotels and restaurants, so take some ready cash. Getting Euros from a bank or travel agent in the UK or USA – or post office in the UK – should be straightforward; some offer a cash back service if you return with unspent currency. Do expect to provide evidence of identity as part of the transaction; a passport or driving licence will often suffice.
Staying There
Hotels
There are thousands of good-value places to stay in Spain. Many are family run with a bar on the ground floor and good home cooking in the restaurant. Prices compare very favourably with elsewhere in continental Europe, and extremely favourably in terms of price and quality with accommodation in the UK. Without exception all have provided secure locations for bicycles when asked. At the bottom end you can usually find bed, breakfast and three-course evening meal with drinks totalling a mere 25 Euros per person. The evening meals can be a real experience, sometimes with a bottle of wine thrown in and virtually as much food as you can eat. Breakfast is usually coffee and toast or bread and jam. Try and avoid croissants, as they have little substance; churros, on the other hand – deep-fried ‘ropes’ of dough – are excellent and will keep you going for ages. Churros are traditionally eaten with a hot chocolate drink. Small cakes, magdalenas, often make an appearance on Sunday mornings.
Hotels are tightly regulated and must display prices of rooms and meals at reception and in bedrooms. Always check whether meals are available. Complaints’ books must be kept and are inspected by the authorities.
Although most hotels have central heating there is a reluctance to switch it on except in extreme circumstances. This can be a problem during a cold snap, and in the mountains the nights can turn chilly. Often there is only one blanket on the bed with others stored away in wardrobes or available for the asking, so make sure you have enough before turning in for the night.
In many hotels marble and polished stone is used in rooms and corridors. While very attractive and easy to clean footsteps can echo and voices boom and, allied with street noise, hotels can be noisy. Take some earplugs if you are a light sleeper.
One of the most welcome recent developments has been the growth of rural accommodation, ranging from bed and breakfast to substantial stylish hotels. The buildings vary from timber-framed medieval town houses to fincas (country house/small farm) and estancias (large farm/ranch) and stylish modern properties. There is less than national consistency about names or standards expect to see them variously named such as ‘Casas Rurales’, ‘Alojamientos Rurales’ and ‘Posadas’. The latter in particular (found in Cantabria, and known as Casas Rurales/Alojamientos Rurales elsewhere) have high standards and offer excellent value. Details can be found at national and provincial tourist offices.
The official classification of hotel-type accommodation can be confusing and there is considerable overlap between classes. Outside each establishment you will find a blue plaque with white lettering identifying the type. The ones likely to be encountered, starting with the most expensive, are in the table.
Details of hotels and guide prices are given at the end of each cycle route description. It is always a good idea to book ahead to make sure you are not left stranded at the end of a hard day. Local telephone directories are a good source of hotel, hostals and pensions often not listed elsewhere. For those able to plan with certainty booking hotel rooms online through a consolidator such as www.laterooms.com may reduce costs.
H Hoteles: hotel graded one to five stars. Restaurant, bar etc and everything you would expect of a hotel. Includes the state-run chain of ‘Paradores’
HR Hoteles Residencia: as hoteles except no dining-room facilities, with the possible exception of breakfast
HS Hostales: good-value family-owned and run hotels usually with home cooking. Graded one to three stars. Most common in rural areas
HsR Hostal Residencia: as hostales except no meals, with the possible exception of breakfast
P Pensiónes: family-run guest houses. Common in rural areas
CH Casa de Huéspedes: similar to pensiónes. Not that common
F Fonda: rooms, often above a bar, can be excellent value, coupled with good home cooking. Becoming rare
The little-visited forested gorge of the Alto Tajo
Camping
There are some 1200 campsites dotted across the country offering another good-value accommodation option. Many are well equipped with their own bar/restaurant or even swimming pool, though grassy pitches may be hard to come by. However, camspites can be too far apart to make camping-only tours feasible, and some may close down out of season. Wild camping is illegal around built-up areas and forbidden by many landowners, so check before pitching. The difference in price between Hostales and campsites may not be that great, and for a little more money a decent night’s sleep in a bed and your own en suite shower at the end of a day in the saddle may be preferable.
Youth hostels
These are often run by the regional Youth and Sports Departments (Direcciones Generales de la Juventud y el Deporte) and can be very cheap. They tend to be concentrated in cities and tourist areas.
About the Bike
There are no hard-and-fast rules about which type of bike is best to tour on, unless you are following one of the Caminos de Santiago, in which case a mountain bike is recommended. Otherwise, they are best avoided. They are heavy, and the fat, knobbly tyres make for far harder work than road tyres. The routes described in this book are mostly on road, with some forest and mountain road sections. Consider using either a dedicated touring bike or a hybrid. A hybrid is a cross between a touring and a mountain bike. It has an upright sitting position, which is great for views but poor for aerodynamics. The routes in this book were ridden on a hybrid apart from those in the Serranía de Ronda and the Sierra de Grazalema. Except where noted in the text, either of the bikes will prove more than adequate.
Gears
Having the right gears is important for getting up those hills in a state to appreciate the challenge and enjoy the view. The right gears allow you to balance height gain and forward movement. The laws of mechanics have it that it takes the same amount of work to transport a bike and rider to the top of a given pass irrespective of gear ratio or forward speed. The length of the road is also irrelevant if there is no resistance from the road surface, wind or mechanical conversion. However, each human has a maximum sustainable work output and optimum pedalling rate or cadence. This is why we have gears.
A simple comparative measure of gears is to calculate how far each full rotation of the pedals moves the bike forward. This is known as ‘development’, and the development range indicates how suitable a bike is for terrain types and gradients. To calculate the development range, find out the diameter of your wheel in metres and the number of teeth on the largest and smallest cogs on the chainwheels and on the sprocket set.
Having got the gearing right it is important to use the gears properly. On a bike with 21 gears (three on the front chainwheel x seven on the rear sprocket) only 15 of those ratios should be used. Each chainwheel should only be used to access five of the seven rear sprockets otherwise the chain is flexing too much, resulting in excess wear and adding resistance to the system. The largest chainwheel is used with the five smallest sprockets, the middle chainwheel avoiding the largest and smallest, and the small chainwheel the five largest sprockets. The same principle applies more so to those with 24 and 27 gears.
Gearing ratios
Lower limit of development = pi x diameter of wheel x teeth on smallest chainwheel/teeth on largest sprocket
Upper limit of development = pi x diameter of wheel x teeth on largest chainwheel/teeth on smallest sprocket
For my bike
lower limit = 3.14 x 0.7m x 28/34 = 1.8m;
upper limit = 3.14 x 0.7m x 48/14 = 7.5m
(The chainwheel being the front set of cogs and the sprocket set the rear set of cogs.)
The development range is 1.8–7.5m. The upper limit is fine and is only used on the flat and downhill. The lower limit is important in the mountains. Spanish roads are mostly well graded and so most people, including occasional cyclists, can get away with a lower development of around 2.5m. If contemplating mountain and forest tracks think about a lower limit of around 1.8m as the tracks may be steeper and poor surfaces require lower gears. If the terrain is undulating or hilly a lower limit of 3.8m should suffice.
Maintenance
Your bike should be well maintained and physically sound. A well-maintained and correctly set-up bike is subject to less resistance and wear. A full service should be carried out prior to going. Cycle shops in rural Spain, although excellent, can be sparse.
Weight
Weight is important for several reasons. A loaded touring bike with rider would typically weigh around 100kg. Every extra kg increases the work required to get up a hill by 1%; conversely, a reduction of 1kg reduces the effort by 1%. In stop–start cycling the effort required to get moving depends on the mass of the body to be moved: the lower the mass the lower the effort. The rolling resistance of the tyres is dependent on the amount of tyre in contact with the road at any given time. This is dependent on the load divided by the tyre pressure; the smaller the load the smaller the rolling resistance. Therefore tyres should always be kept to the correct pressure. This is printed on the sidewall of the tyre.
Aisa (Route 7)
Lights – front and back
Although most cycling will be done during the day you may get caught out in the dark, and a number of the Vías Verdes have very dark tunnels with all-terrain floors. Make sure your lights work and replace existing batteries. Buying replacements in Spain will not be a problem. Position the lights so that when the bike is loaded they can be seen by passing traffic. (UK cyclists note that traffic will pass on your left.) At night cyclists must wear a reflective jacket that is visible at 150m.
Pannier rack and panniers
There is no need to carry more on your back than the clothes you wear. A loaded backpack can reduce cooling through perspiration, be uncomfortable, and raises the centre of gravity so decreasing stability. Put everything possible in the panniers. For most cycling a couple of rear panniers should suffice; if camping a handlebar bag can provide the extra space required. More kit can be strapped to the top of the pannier rack. If you need more volume think again. Lightweight aluminium racks are fairly cheap and sound. Front panniers tend to be smaller and while giving extra space (and weight) have the advantage of increasing stability by counterbalancing the rear ones. Take at least one elastic bungy cord for fastening things down. Some panniers claim to be waterproof, but line them with bin bags and have a couple of carrier bags to put dirty clothes in. Manufacturers to consider include Ortleib, Carradice and Vaude.
Water bottles
Most bikes have two sets of lugs for fitting water-bottle carriers. Use them both; cycling in warm weather is thirsty work. Plastic bottles can taint the water so fill them with water when new and allow to stand; empty, and repeat until the water tastes acceptable. Top up the bottles at the start of every day and at every opportunity. On long rides through empty country a large bottle of readily available still mineral water can be attached to the rack with a bungy cord.
Flavoured drinks in particular can encourage the growth of mould inside water bottles. Keeping them clean inside and out reduces the chances of contracting gastric disorders.
Tyres and wheels
Make sure they are in good condition at the start, and if in doubt replace them before going. Tyre type and choice is importance for comfort and ease of cycling. Fatter tyres contain more air and give a more comfortable ride, but their higher rolling resistance is more tiring. If travelling light, ie. two full panniers, then a good compromise is to use a 25mm tyre on the front wheel and a 28mm one on the back. If the load is heavier, such as when camping, then consider 28mm front and 32mm rear. This is assuming that the wheels are compatible. Correct tyre pressure will reduce the number of punctures caused by bumps on rough roads. Tyre tread depends on which type of cycling you intend to do – the more off-road riding is planned the deeper the tread should be.
What To Take
Air travellers are typically given a luggage allowance of 20kg (of which 5kg can be taken into the cabin). If the bike is charged for separately it will have its own additional allowance. 20kg should be more than enough. Unless you are camping, if your bike and baggage comes close to or exceeds 20kg in total, then you should seriously reconsider what you are taking as heavy loads can become an unwieldy and tiresome burden.
Bike
Any bike fitting the criteria described earlier will suffice.
Pump
You will certainly need one if going by air. A pump with a pressure gauge is recommended.
Helmet
The wearing of cycle helmets in Spain is compulsory. They must be CE marked and made to international standards such as EN1078. There are exceptions in cases of extreme heat, prolonged climbs or on medical grounds.
Lock
A good U-bolt or cable lock removes worries over security. The weight is worth it.
Tools and spares
A well-maintained sound bike should give very little trouble on a tour. However, do expect to adjust brakes and derailleurs and to repair punctures. The odd spoke may also give way. Tools can easily be shared within a group. If going by air remember to take the tools required to dissemble and assemble your bike before and after the flight.
Puncture repair kit
Spare inner tube (one for every two in the party)
Tyre levers (10cm-long plastics ones are sufficient)
Spanner to undo the wheel (multi-head is better than adjustable as it is less likely to damage the nut) – quick-release wheels are even better
Adjustments: flat blade and Phillips screwdrivers, Allen-keys for all Allen-bolts on bike (typically 4, 5, 6 and 7mm), chain riveter/extractor, oil (3 in 1 or similar in non-aerosol container)
Spoke replacement: see above for the tools to remove wheel from bike and tyre from wheel. Replace the broken spoke but don’t tighten too much; set the wheel back in the upturned bike. Use the bike frame and brake blocks as a jig to measure any buckle. Tighten and loosen the replacement spoke using a small adjustable spanner or a spoke-nipple tool until any buckle has gone. Normally adjusting only the replacement spoke will sort out any problem. The objective is to make your bike sufficiently roadworthy to continue. Small buckles can be sorted out later by someone who has had a bit more practice.
Spares: very few spares are required. Take a spare inner tube to swap for a punctured one; the repaired one then becomes the spare. Some spokes (taped to the pannier rack); a broken spoke can easily buckle a wheel. A replacement may not make the wheel perfectly true but will be tolerable. Spare nuts and bolts just in case pannier racks or mudguard lose their means of fixing. A small roll of tape and a length of stiff wire, no use yet – but maybe someday.
Cycling clothes
Wind resistance is reduced with tighter-fitting clothing. As the weather will be perfect clothing can be kept to a minimum.
Helmet
Sunglasses: to reduce glare and keep insects and dust out of eyes
T-shirt or cycling top: avoid mesh tops which do not provide sufficient protection from the sun, and avoid dark colours that absorb the heat
Cycling shorts: proper cycling shorts are recommended as the insert is seam free and provides additional padding. Seams in shorts can be very uncomfortable after a few hours.
Cycling gloves: to protect hands in case of a fall, and to reduce vibrations leading to sore hands and wrists
Shoes: trainers are fine. Cleated shoes and matching pedals are recommended, but look for cleats that are countersunk into the sole. These shoes are multi functional.
Suntan lotion: even if it leads to nothing more complex, simple sunburn can be very painful
Spare T-shirt: to swap for the riding one when stopped for any length of time
Warm windproof gear: to avoid getting a chill when stopped. At mountain passes it is worth putting such gear on otherwise the descent can be painfully cold. If the weather isn’t perfect then lots of additional thin layers built from a thermal top base are best at keeping out the cold. Running bottoms and thermal gloves are welcome additions.
Cycling in rain can be cold and unpleasant, and once cold it is hard to get warm again. Take the following gear with you:
Reasonably lightweight but fully waterproof top: essential. If cycling at night then make sure it has reflective features to comply with the lighting regulations. On its own it will be fine for showers.
Fibre-pile fleece jacket: to wear under your waterproof top in heavy or driving rain to keep out the cold. The fibre pile is also good for retaining warmth when wet and it dries quickly
Fibre-pile hat: to wear under your helmet
Gloves: waterproof well-insulated gloves are available but can be bulky
Trousers: it’s a choice of close-knit cycling trousers which retain the warmth, uncomfortable waterproof trousers, or just accepting the cold and wet.
Non-cycling clothes
Take what you are prepared to carry, but try and be presentable; the standard of dress in most bars and restaurants is fairly high. The smart casual look is usually acceptable.
Sundries
Camera and mobile phone: chargers need to work with the local supply. Mains voltage is 220V 50Hz; plugs are of the round two-pin variety
Earplugs: hotels can be noisy
Eating implements: daytime eating will often involve a picnic so take a tin and bottle opener, and knife (usually a Swiss Army knife). Remember to put knives and the like in your hold luggage
First aid kit: take a small first aid kit. These are readily available from pharmacists, bike and outdoor shops
Wash kit: soap, towel (can be kept small if staying in hotels), toothbrush etc
Camping
If camping the load will increase in terms of volume and weight. Tent, foam sleeping mat, sleeping bag, stove and cooking utensils can easily add 5 to 7kg, not to mention any long-term food items. Front panniers may now be essential. Tents can be broken into their component parts and shared amongst the group.
Tents
Most of the main manufacturers make suitable tents for cyclists: generally two-person, easy to erect and fairly lightweight, ranging from 1kg to just under 4kg. If travelling solo a backpacking/mountain marathon type is both smaller and lighter (1kg or less). Cycling tents tend to have a porch or extension for storage purposes. Manufacturers to consider include Hilleberg, Saunders, Terra Nova, Vango and Vaude.
Stoves
Methylated spirits-fuelled stoves such as those made by Trangia are well proven, pack neatly and come with a matching pan set, which avoids the separate cooking pans required with a gas burner. Fuel – methylated spirits or gas canisters – will have to be located on arrival. Even so the weight will be 1kg+ excluding cutlery and cleaning materials. If concerned about weight it is possible to get away with a Swiss Army knife and spoon along with a small pan and lightweight mountain stove.
Sleeping gear
A spring or autumn trip means a two- or three-season sleeping bag, but don’t forget that most of Spain is above 600m so while daytime temperatures may rise to 25°C in summer, nights (and early mornings) are very cool. If in doubt take a silk liner which is both light to carry and warm to sleep in. A good night’s sleep is essential to recovery, so it may be wise to take a Therm-a-rest which, though slightly heavier, is infinitely more comfortable than a basic foam sleeping mat.
Eating and Drinking en route
Eating
A good breakfast starts the day well, but cycling requires regular intakes of fuel and replenishment will soon be needed. Readily available and convenient foods are fruit, bread, cakes, biscuits and chocolate.
Bananas (plátanos), oranges (naranjas) and apples (manzanas) are widely available all year round. Other fruits tend to be seasonal.
Bread is the carbohydrate staple of Spain: even the smallest village will have a panadería, which you can expect to be open mornings (including Sunday) and evenings (rarely Sunday). Getting fresh bread should not be a problem, but many panaderías lack any external sign advertising their presence. Most bread uses refined flour, so if you want wholemeal or wholewheat ask for pan integral. Cheese and tuna make good fillings. Tuna packed in vegetable or olive oil can remove the need to use butter or margarine, which can be troublesome to carry.
Small cakes are cheap to buy and make excellent cycling food, but avoid the highly packaged confections that look better than they taste. Magdalenas, small cup cakes often flavoured with lemon, can be bought by the dozen and are highly recommended. Avoid the wholemeal variety which tends to be drier and less instantly gratifying. Also recommended are valencianas, similar but finger shaped.
Sotres and the Collado de Pandébano with their lush hay meadows (Route 8)
In many villages the shops are small and specialised: a bread shop only sells bread, the fruit shop only fruit and vegetables, and the grocer only packaged goods. Purchasing the day’s food is a good way of practising the language, especially numbers.
Drinking
Correct hydration is important for good health. Water is essential to biological function. Dehydration, loss of water, thickens the blood and reduces its oxygen-carrying capacity, so reducing performance. Sweating is the main way the body cools itself during hard work. Should sweating be insufficient the body will subconsciously reduce the work level to prevent the body’s core temperature from rising to dangerous levels. Conversely too much water, hyperhydration, dilutes the blood salt concentrations and can be life-threatening.
Even without exercise, in warm climates the body would normally lose 2.5kg a day through urination, skin evaporation and breathing. The water is replaced by drinking and metabolising food. Cycling on a hot day can generate one to two litres of sweat per hour going uphill. The body can absorb about 0.8 litres an hour, so the body is bound to endure some water loss during the day. At the very onset of dehydration the body reacts by shutting down urination and initiates a thirst reaction. The thirst reaction and the body’s mechanisms for coping with dehydration may diminish with age.
Drinking to maintain correct hydration should be considered a whole-day process. Drink freely to satisfy your thirst. Drinking in anticipation of sweat loss or to match rates of sweating can lead to hyperhydration and is best avoided. Coffee and tea are diuretics but one or two cups should have no effect on hydration status. Water is good for hydration and readily available. Many find a flavoured drink more palatable. Fruit juices diluted to between 30 and 50g of sugars per litre, with an optional small pinch of salt, are about the right strength for quenching that thirst. The sugars are a good source of energy. The quantity of sugars in a carton of fruit juice should be listed on the label. Making the drinks stronger reduces their absorption by the stomach, so keep them dilute. On the road keep your drinks bottles topped up. Drinking at meal times is recommended and generally plain water will be fine. An easy test of hydration is that urine should be clear and pale straw coloured. This test is most reliable just after getting up. Alcoholic drinks are diuretics and should in theory be avoided – but hey, you’re on holiday…!
The Vía Verde out of Andoain soon crosses the viaduct and continues between steep hills (Route 7)
Embalse de El Pintado in the Parque Natural Sierra Norte (Route 4)
Coping with Extreme Weather
Long days of exposed cycling in the mountains in wind and rain can, in extreme circumstances, lead to a severe chilling of the body resulting in exposure. Similarly long days in hot weather in the full glare of the sun can lead to excessive fluid loss, heat exhaustion or a breakdown in the body’s heat control mechanism, and heatstroke. Although heatstroke, heat exhaustion and exposure are most unlikely to occur it is worth being aware of their symptoms, prevention and treatment; if not dealt with properly all can be life threatening. The box below is not intended to alarm, but to highlight the appropriate precautions that can be taken to prevent problems.
Heatstroke (hyperpyrexia)
Heatstroke occurs when the body’s heat production becomes greater than its heat loss and the body’s temperature rises. A body temperature above 40°C can become life threatening.
Physical effort produces heat which is lost through radiation and convection from the body’s surface. When these mechanisms are insufficient the body starts to sweat and so loses heat through evaporation. Hot still air, hard physical work and heat absorbed from the sun bring on sweating and so body cooling. The inability to sweat properly may be due to lack of acclimatisation, existing illness, or wearing heat-retaining or waterproof clothes. Some common drugs used to treat motion sickness and diarrhoea, and antihistamines, can also suppress sweating.
Symptoms include:
Tiredness, feeling of weakness, dizziness, headache, possible vomiting and nausea, muscle cramps, loss of coordination, reduction in sweat production, hot skin, fast strong pulse, thirst, drying out and collapse.
Prevention:
Acclimatise for the likely high temperatures, or progressively build up distance once in Spain
Avoid cycling if you are running a temperature
Keep correctly hydrated to replace lost fluids
Wear light clothes that allow heat and moisture transfer, block the sun and reflect its radiation
Rest and keep in the shade wherever possible
Avoid drinking alcohol
Treatment:
Increase cooling by constantly wetting clothing or immersing patient in water, but be careful not to cause excessive cooling and hypothermia
Lie the patient down, with the feet raised (to maintain blood flow to the brain)
Seek medical help as effects can be delayed
Heat exhaustion
Rather than a failure of the heat control mechanisms this is caused by excessive fluid loss (usually through sweating) so thickening the blood.
Symptoms include:
Fatigue, weakness, excessive sweating followed by slow pulse, cold clammy skin, disorientation and possible collapse.
Prevention: same procedures as for heatstroke
Treatment: the objective is to get the blood back to its normal viscosity while keeping the brain fed with oxygen.
Lie the patient flat with the head slightly down (to maintain blood flow to the brain)
Get the patient to drink small quantities of sweetened water
Exposure (hypothermia)
Exposure occurs when the body surface is severely chilled, leading to a fall in the core body temperature; this can be fatal.
Either wind and rain alone can chill the body. When they combine they can cause severe heat loss, far more so than low external temperatures.
Symptoms include:
Palour and shivering, disinterest and listlessness, distorted vision, slurred speech, irrational behaviour and collapse.
Prevention:
Wear windproof and waterproof clothing with heat-retaining properties
Eat at regular intervals throughout the day
Treatment: this primarily involves stopping further heat loss, and if possible providing some heat.
Get out of the wind and rain
Get into warm dry clothing and lie down, remembering to insulate the patient from the ground. Use a sleeping bag if available
If possible share body warmth
If conscious take warm drinks and easily digestible foods such as sugar
Avoid tea, coffee or alcohol
Avoid increasing blood flow to the skin by rubbing or massaging
Seek medical help as effects can be delayed
How to Use this Guide
This guide details eight self-contained multi-day cycling routes. Each route is composed of a number of stages; each stage can be done in a day by cyclists of moderate fitness. However, accommodation possibilities along the whole of each route have been given to allow the reader to tailor the ride to his/her own preferences and abilities.
The eight routes described have been designed for maximum enjoyment. The cycling is excellent, passing through the most beautiful parts of the country and visiting many historic and interesting towns and cities. The routes are distributed throughout Spain so each one is distinct in character, geography and topography.
Newcomers to cycle touring or cycling in Spain may wish to consider Routes 1 and 2 which are relatively short but offer an excellent introduction to the country. Routes 4 and 6 pass through some of the less visited parts of Spain without encountering too much hard going. The other routes are more physically challenging, but not excessively so.
These routes are not part of any official network or itinerary, although these do exist. The Camino de Santiago is widely known and well documented for those travelling on foot, horseback or bicycle. The less well-known Ruta de la Plata from Sevilla to Astorga, where it joins the Camino de Frances, is another well-documented cyclable pilgrim route.
The distances of the stages are accurate, as is the amount of climb on the routes described. The cycling times are those recorded by the author and are a measure of the actual amount of time spent cycling and do not include rest breaks, view stops and the like. Riders should use them as a comparative measure when planning a day’s ride.
Many stages have alternatives that provide either easier or harder options to the main route. A number of optional loop routes are described that allow further exploration of some of the more interesting parts of Spain.
The maps are principally to locate and help describe the routes. The maps recommended in the text should be used for navigation purposes and to supply more information about the area.
The accommodation listed is not exhaustive, but finding somewhere to sleep is generally not a problem. However, when heading for towns with a single hotel, reserving a room in advance by telephone is strongly recommended. This is even more important on public holidays, Friday and Saturday nights throughout the year, and during the peak Spanish holiday months of July and August.
If this guide has done its job readers are now ready to head off on their bikes to discover something of Spain. However, some may wish to have like-minded company, a degree of support or to experience the lie of the land before doing their own thing. Appendix 7 lists some companies that organise cycle tours in Spain along with some questions as to the degree of support required.
Alhama de Granada overlooks the gorge of the Río Alhama, with several water mills (Route 3)
