Читать книгу Marijuana Daily Gardening - Henry Woodward - Страница 8
ОглавлениеCongratulations! Welcome to the “growing” community of home marijuana cultivators. The decision to start a home garden can be a difficult one. Well, actually, compared to what can be a bewildering number of considerations in setting up your daily grow for the first time, the decision itself can be comparatively easy. However, my new grower friends should have no fear: the path from complete newbie to experienced cannabis gardener is short, interesting, and definitely rewarding.
I am writing this book as a gardener of moderate experience, specifically for would-be growers with little or no experience. You might be asking why on Earth you should be trusting anyone who is less than a pro. Well, as much as I appreciate the advice of professional growers and have learned from some of their books, I think there are several reasons that a more grassroots book will help new growers. The first is that professional growers are engaged in a number of sophisticated processes (for instance, creating new strains through breeding) and techniques (such as using sophisticated control boards to manage advanced lighting, hydroponic systems and release carbon dioxide) that need not concern those just starting out, at least until their skills and knowledge are well established.
The second is that pro grows are very different animals: big, expensive, and potentially very risky (especially if pursued in jurisdictions where it is criminalized by high-minded but wrong-headed moralism). Your home garden likely cannot and surely need not be any of these things. Though a daily grow can be challenging at times, it is more simple than you might think while reading this introduction and weighing how to approach your own garden. The perspective of someone not too far removed from their own first-timer questions (and who from time-to-time still make mistakes, as you no doubt will) is invaluable for someone, like yourself, who will face just similar situations.
Finally, unlike many professionals, I don’t have a huge ego regarding my reputation as a grower. Many writers and even amateur bloggers can be reluctant to share their mistakes. Not so here. This grow will illustrate not only the successes but also the failures and even the completely embarrassing screw-ups that we all make. This grow journal will show the good, the bad and, yes, even the ugly (and there have been some real ugly mistakes, let me tell you). With any luck, it will help you to maximize your chances of achieving the first and avoiding the other two.
We’ll be kicking it old school in this grow: (high quality) soil, water, lights, and a nutritious diet for your little ladies. The rest are just details. You’ll get them here.
I began growing nearly five years ago. At the time, I was not even a regular cannabis smoker beyond the occasional toke at a party, let alone a daily vaporizer as I am today. I had never seen a cannabis plant first hand, let alone grown one myself. My personal knowledge of marijuana was limited to what I had picked up in popular culture and, as such, was fairly limited and marked by the stereotype of the slacker-stoner, head shops, and hydroponic supply ads. That is to say, I was a complete and total beginner.
Though I have pretty standard outdoor gardens on my home property, I didn’t by any stretch consider myself a green thumb – in fact, houseplants have not enjoyed a track record of success in my home. Since I have a day job as a university professor, I enjoy learning and teaching, and quickly found a passion for cannabis cultivation. Needless to say though, I didn’t fit the normal profile of a typical grower/user. That was the first part of my own education: in my view today, these stereotypes have been perpetuated by powerful voices in government, law enforcement, and the alcohol lobby to keep the general public ignorant of how benign, enjoyable, and healing marijuana can be. Today, I count myself as someone who strongly believes that the distinction between “medical” and “recreational” pot is an artificial distinction. Marijuana is a plant. It comes from nature. Used responsibly, it is safe, effective, and easy to enjoy.
So what motivated me to start growing? Equal parts chance and a health emergency experienced by a close family member. Several years ago, my partner was diagnosed with epilepsy. Marijuana was prescribed to mitigate the effect of seizures she experienced multiple times daily. She continues to use it daily in conjunction with pharmaceuticals to keep seizures at bay, which they thankfully have been for some time. Indeed, the anti-convulsive effects of cannabis are well if incompletely documented, and my partner has been advised by medical doctors to continue her daily prescribed use of marijuana to maintain her health. But confronted with a need to secure a regular supply of high quality cannabis, we needed to find a source.
At first, my partner sought out what is for many people the only source of marijuana: illegal drug dealers. Though the cost was high, supply was at least regular. But though I know many people maintain contacts to secure pot with people who are dependable and trustworthy, we worried that the handful of sources that we had were potentially dangerous, and not a little unsavory. As a woman walking into places without escort, often in the company of numerous unknown men, she (and I) began to worry about her safety. Here is a genuine danger associated with marijuana use, but to be clear, it is one created by the current legal regime in most places, not the plant itself. There had to be a better way. We began investigating.
From here, we quickly dismissed government-produced cannabis. I’m a believer in the idea that government can be a force for good in our society. But they sure do produce crappy pot. The sealed bags sent from the government were both expensive and of poor quality: it was clear that entire plants were ground up together, not just the bud that is high in THC or CBD, but also much lower impact stems and leaves. Strains were not advertised, it was just generic “pot,” and overly dry and poorly cured at that. This, coupled with the resistance and often outright refusal (until very recently) of either government or health care professionals to fund and conduct controlled experiments on the efficacy of marijuana consumption for different physical and psychological ailments, meant that we were powerless to identify strains that might best address the symptoms of the medical license holder. The pot bought from the government was a poor deal in terms of quality. It made illegally-sourced pot a superior option. Coupled with punitive laws for possession of marijuana, we had hit strike two in our search for a good source.
We then located several good sources of quality weed via compassion clubs that only accepted clients with valid government permits to possess cannabis for medical use. This made buying pot more (but not totally) safe and secure, and the price was similar: some strains were cheaper than what was available illegally; other more sought-after strains were more expensive. It also meant that we could purchase edibles in some cases, with a reasonable if not total safety guarantee. Still, these sources currently exist in a legal gray area. We worried about the continued potential for having to deal with law enforcement. The monthly purchase of pot continued to be a hassle, potentially at risk in terms of purchase and transport (who likes walking around with hundreds of dollars worth of cannabis or money to buy cannabis on their person between a store and home if they can avoid it?) and still very expensive.
It was at this point that we made the decision to start a home grow. By necessity, as a result of the severity of my partner’s medical condition at the time, responsibility for this start up fell to me.
I began documenting the work for this book in my garden’s first year, in large part because I knew so little and was committed to improving my grow techniques and the quantity and quality of the product in successive harvests. I took extensive notes, and experimented with what worked and what didn’t. I asked questions at my local hydroponics and head shops when people agreed to share their experiences. Failing this, I researched online and via existing grow books when I had questions I couldn’t answer. Slowly, my garden took shape and improved.
Though there is a wealth of knowledge out there to access once you know where to look, it struck me that there was no book that I could find that could speak explicitly to my experience as a newbie marijuana cultivator. Most books were written by pros, for pros. Others, even explicitly written for beginners, tended to show grows that were perfect or at least without major incidents. This makes sense: for most people in the industry, there is a fair amount of pride (and ego) that accompanies an established practice. What I needed was a book that wouldn’t hide the many errors and pitfalls of an initial grow. A book that would share simple, cost-effective solutions to common problems. A book that was written for a beginner, by a beginner. I decided that I would write that book. You’re holding the results of that effort. It follows one of my earliest grows, at a time when I was just learning my craft. I haven’t air-brushed mistakes I made. I wrote the book I wish I had had when I was starting. I hope it will help fill this need for you.
Before moving on, I must note that becoming an amateur home gardener has been a profoundly positive experience for my family and for me. We now have a source of cannabis that is secure. It costs literally pennies on the dollar compared to what we used to pay others, even after setup and annual expenses. We control the genetics. We control the grow conditions, which is important for the health conscious: we don’t have to worry about buying pot that has been sprayed with poisonous insecticides, or laced with anything else we wouldn’t choose to consume. We have the ability to manipulate relative THC/CBD levels based on when we harvest (this takes a lot of trial and error, but it is an unbelievably interesting and rewarding process). Moreover, we have been able to locate and produce a dependable source of strains that best impact the health needs of the primary user for whom I am growing. By taking control of our own medicine, we have taken control of our own health.
Finally, I would be remiss not to admit that I now enjoy marijuana on a daily basis. It has improved my mood, been a trusted pain reliever and anti-inflammatory, and a healthier option for altering my mental state than consuming mass units of alcohol (and yes, while the “munchies” are real for me as they are for many cannabis users, I have dropped twenty pounds as pot has largely replaced fattening beer as part of my daily routine). I hadn’t really intended to use cannabis much if at all, even when I had started growing. But it is a poor cook or vintner who doesn’t try his or her own product, no? There has also been an additional mental health benefit to growing that I have rarely seen mentioned: growing cannabis in your home with proper preparation is generally safe, easy, and inexpensive. But it is also deeply relaxing and even therapeutic. The time I spend in my garden most days is one of the most quiet and relaxing parts of my day. I genuinely derive a benefit from spending time with my plants, which I care for and about a great deal. You might be pleasantly surprised to find that this will happen to you as well.
But that isn’t to suggest that establishing and operating a home grow isn’t a significant amount of work. With that in mind, let’s turn our attention to the grow itself.
In terms of layout, I use a fairly compact grow space. The room is located in a small closet-like room in an unfinished basement. The basement itself is only about five feet high at its highest points which puts vertical height at a premium – I have to grow smartly and with good planning to ensure that my grow stays within the confines of my work space; particularly height-inclined sativas.
The entire grow room is lined by white polyethylene tarp to add to the reflectivity of the space. It is four feet wide and just over four feet high (though the ceiling is unfinished, so there is a bit of play there). It is ten feet long, divided into three roughly equally-sized chambers by polyethylene tarps secured by Velcro that allow each room to be easily accessed while remaining light-tight at all other times. The central area provides a small work area in the middle, which houses the power bars and other electrical equipment. The bud and vegetation rooms are accessed on each side via the tarps, and the whole set up is secured behind a locking door. It is as inconspicuous as possible from the outside and the area just outside of the grow rooms can be quickly tidied to remove most evidence that anything unusual is going on, in case someone such as a service worker must access the basement. In short, it is utilitarian: easy to clean, organized, and secure, with all necessary tools in easy reach.
Hang polyethylene tarps cut to fit your grow space. They are a snap to clean and can be quickly rolled up and secured with Bungee cords, and can be made flat with Velcro at the edges so that no light escapes.
Measure your grow space before purchasing an exhaust fan. Be sure to purchase one that will evacuate warm air frequently.
The walls and floor are concrete, which makes for a clean and cleanable workspace. However, it means that the plants must be raised ever so slightly off the floor so that roots won’t be too cold. Moreover, the room itself isn’t heated or cooled by the house’s forced-air system, basements tend to be cooler than the rest of the house in the summer. At times, this can make it difficult to keep the rooms in an optimum temperature range. This is one advantage of using T5 fluorescents: they don’t kick a lot of extra heat into an already hot space.
To keep plants from being placed directly on concrete, the rooms have a plywood floor in the veg room (painted and sealed to make for easier clean up) and rubber “play mats” (what kids in a kindergarten would use in a playroom to reduce fall injuries) in the bud room. These are superior to raised shelves because both the plywood and mats use less than an inch of the precious grow space on the vertical axis. Shelves to hold the plants would use up too much space to allow for a good grow with only four feet of play.
Simple tubing for a clothes dryer vent can double as an exhaust tube for your grow space.
Oscillating fans are set up in each grow room, also just off the floor to avoid issues in case of spills. An exhaust fan with a carbon filter sits on a shelf near the ceiling of the bud room – a must since it must filter and evacuate air that carries telltale odors when plants are near harvest. All wires are secured to walls using clips that are nailed into studs – it is literally impossible that wires will fall into water. Ventilation tubes have been constructed (out of standard exhaust tubes used for a clothes dryer) and placed behind the polyethylene on the walls to encourage airflow into and out of the room. These are curved to ensure that rooms remain light-tight: that is, no ambient light from outside the grow rooms can enter via vent access points.
For lighting, a band of T5 fluorescents, each a foot wide and four feet long that house four 54 watt T5 tubes apiece, are hung from chains to allow lights to be easily moved up and down as plants grow. The chains are in turn secured to ceiling studs – the lights are very secure and won’t fall or be easily disturbed. The work areas are also fitted with green incandescent bulbs. This allows work to be done in dark periods where the T5s are off and the plants are resting. The green bulbs access a part of the light spectrum that won’t disturb the plants. This is a must for any grower.
Lights should be hung from chains to allow fo r easy movement up and down. Secure chains to hooks that will safely bear the weight of your setup.
Outside of the grow rooms is a work area that doubles as a normal basement workshop. The tools and equipment help hide the true nature of this area’s primary use. All grow supplies are kept in secure shelves that can be cleaned up in less than five minutes. A separate closet nearby (measuring four square feet) is used for drying and curing bud, as well as storage of other supplies such as mason jars (for bottling bud), shelving (for raising seedlings closer to the T5s when other, larger plants must also be under the lights), additional nutrients (for feeding), and additional light bulbs as well as other miscellaneous gear.
Beyond this, I have also installed a good set of stereo speakers so that I can easily play music or listen to the ball game on the radio. This might seem like a small detail, but given that even a small grow can be a time consuming hobby, it is important to have such creature comforts ready to go when possible. Cold beer and a vaporizer are also steps away. As a result, I’m more than happy to spend hours each week in my secret garden.
Hot air rises! Raise your exhaust vent and be sure to make the exhaust tube light-tight so that no light from outside can disturb sleeping beauties.
The only real shortfall of this setup is the lack of easy access to water. There is no sink in the basement and consequently I must lug pails of water downstairs each day. This is something I want to address in the future. If you have a small work sink (as one would typically find in a laundry room) nearby for watering plants and cleaning up, that is a big plus.
Since I began this grow journal with some plants already partially matured, there are two Master Kush females in my home garden as of right now. They are confirmed females since they were grown from previously sexed clones taken from a mother plant. Master Kush is a pure indica strain. Typical of the Kush family, it really packs a punch in terms of effects, but I chose to grow it because it has a relatively “small nose” (i.e. it doesn’t stink like some more skunky strains), and has a clean taste when vaporized – just a hint of pine needles and maybe a bit of lemon but the weed itself really shines through.
The grow journal that follows documents the continuation of this strain: I start by taking several new Master Kush clones to propagate the next generation of plants. It also involves the germination of a new strain in my garden: Tangerine Dream, a sativa-dominant hybrid. I am growing these from seed that came billed as a good “daytime smoke” since Tangerine is supposed to taste of citrus and to cultivate a cerebral rather than body high. The idea here is to create a crop of plants that can be alternated for use during the day and at night.
Be sure to secure all wires to make your garden a safe workspace.
Timers and power bars should be kept off the floor. It is a good idea to label each wire with a nametag. This takes the guesswork out of unplugging lights or other appliances when needed.
Smaller, single tube T5s can be easily added to compact grow spaces.
Since this grow, I’ve graduated to more than a dozen different strains (and counting) as I continue to experiment with new growing methods and new strains. I also like to renew the genetics of each plant strain (starting over from seed) at least once a year, and this allows me to decommission particular strains when I have created an adequate supply and to then move on to new ones or to reintroduce strains of times gone past. With some preparation and a bit of hard work, you can be here too. Let’s take a look at how to get you there.
Detail number one is perhaps the most crucial consideration: where to grow? Your first task will be to survey and prepare the location of your grow room or rooms. There isn’t really a limit on the size of your grow space, apart from the amount of physical space you have to work with, and what you can easily manage. A grow can also be very compact, sometimes no larger than a moderately sized closet.
Above all, choose a location that is secure. Account for daily use of the space in your home or apartment. Will guests or visitors such as repair people need and be able to access this space? Ideally, the answer to this will be no. Choose a space that is inconspicuous. Your space will also be one that can quickly be swept clear if, for instance, a furnace repair or emergency visit from a plumber is required nearby. It should be a space that can be locked. This is also a consideration for would-be gardeners who have kids. You’ll probably want to avoid a conversation with the parents of your child’s friend about the strange, stinky garden they found while playing Hide and Go Seek at your house! You should definitely have the ability to lock it down, even if it is something that you rarely, if ever, have to do.
Basements are ideal, particularly those typical of old houses that may be little more than a glorified crawl space, unfinished and largely not subject to much traffic. Attics, which typically lack proper insulation let alone air conditioning, can be too hot in the summer and cold in the winter to use effectively. Spaces in close proximity to a washroom, laundry area or even water tank are also good, provided they can be hidden, because this makes watering your garden less time consuming. Watering plants will be the most time consuming part of your daily grow. You will also have a frequent need to clean up the room, the tools, and even yourself. Hauling water buckets up and down some stairs isn’t the end of the world, but it is also not ideal. Choose a space that you will be comfortable working in; you will spend hours over the life of your garden, or even a single grow, in this space. Ask yourself this: would you choose to hang out here, even if nobody else would? Even small touches make a big difference. In my case, I purchased of a good set of speakers to allow me to play music or listen to the radio from my iPhone while working. These things matter. If tending to your garden is a drag, you’re more likely to avoid it, give it insufficient attention or otherwise make avoidable mistakes. Make this space a room into your own little haven!
One final consideration: this book details the particulars of indoor grows only. You may have an outdoor space that is ideal for growing, a cottage or farm property with a quiet space or even a fenced and heavily shielded back yard in the city, one that for instance is lush with the growth of many plants that can hide one or more marijuana plants in its leafy confines, and you might understandably be very tempted to start a grow there. However, I strongly discourage such grows. They are definitely much less secure and the chance of discovery by a friend, a would-be thief or, worst of all, a law enforcement agent also grows exponentially in these situations. Outdoor growing of any type, and most especially “guerilla” style grows (ones where you plant one or more cannabis plants surreptitiously in a public space or on property belonging to another person) are definitely not for the faint of heart.
Green lights are a must. They allow cannabis to effectively remain in the dark cycle. This is important for when you need to work in the garden at these times.
Your chosen grow space will also need to be properly wired. Ensure that you have access to an adequate number of electrical outlets before you start building; my small rooms consistently use no less than seven plugs when lights, fans, vents and, occasionally, space heaters are considered. If you will be using extension cords, they should be secured to reduce the chances of tripping or immersing in spilled water.
Power bars and timers (or best, power bars with timer functionality) are a must to control different light schedules. Finally, do some rough and easy to figure calculations: does your home or apartment have sufficient wattage to meet your needs? Perhaps the only thing worse than an insecure room that is discovered is an improperly wired room that results in a fire. When it comes to safety, don’t skimp and don’t take chances.
An unnecessary mess: tie down loose wires and cords with Velcro straps or twist ties.
Once the space is selected, you will need to prepare the room (or rooms) properly. Soon, you’ll have new baby plants growing here. You definitely want to prep the babies’ room before they come home. Ideally, you will have sufficient space to create two dedicated rooms in which you will grow and maintain your garden: a “veg” room and a “bud” room. The veg room will house plants grown from seed or cloned cuttings and will expose them to a light cycle that is either 18/6 light to dark or even has the lights on 24/7. The other room will be the “bud” room, a space into which physically mature plants will be moved when vegging is complete. This room will be set up on a 12/12 light/dark cycle, meant to mimic the shorter days of the autumn harvest season. It is essential that each room is light-tight. Escaping light could arouse suspicion from passersby and light entering could actually harm your grow, particularly light bleeding into a sloppily assembled bud room. A larger room can even be split into two sections with relative ease. This book shows a grow conducted in a room smaller than a typical walk-in closet that has been split into two rooms; that is, less than four feet tall with each room measuring about four feet across and less than that deep, with a small antechamber of similar size in between the two grow rooms.
At least two timers are required to operate two rooms on different light cycles. Here a small timer is plugged into a power bar that also has a separate timer.
If you can dedicate one other small space of say four feet across by two deep and two high, you will also be able to create a dedicated space for hanging your harvested bud to dry. This room is the easiest to assemble: all it really requires is a space where you can string several lengths of string like clothes lines, tied securely and with sufficient clearance (a minimum of 18 inches to be safe) to hang stems while they dry. Finally, you will need space to work (a basement work bench is ideal) that is adequately lit and that allows for easy access to stored tools and supplies.
1. Avoid accumulation of dead vegetative matter, particularly in pots as it can breed mould and attract pests.
2. Clean up spills immediately whenever possible.
3. Use vinegar to disinfect all soiled surfaces between grows.
4. Sweep/vacuum regularly.
5. If rodents are present (e.g. if grow room is located in a basement), be sure to set ample traps in the vicinity of the grow.
6. Deal with spider webs. Never allow webs to be set on or near plants.
7. Clean tops of nutrient bottles to seal well after use. Otherwise, gummy remnants will accumulate.
8. Keep buckets used for watering clean. Rinsing should be sufficient day-to-day, but clean occasionally with soap and water (after each grow for instance).
9. Keep work area clean and free of household crap as much as possible so you have an organized work area.
Something way better than clothes will be drying on these lines!
If you are truly challenged in terms of the space you can dedicate to your garden and can only have one room, you will likely want to opt for autoflowering seeds. These will be described in the grow journal below. They are perhaps the best strategy for a daily grow in a truly tiny garden.
Once the space is selected, ensure that you clean the area thoroughly. Avoid the temptation to skip this important step. You want an environment that is as sterile as possible. Sweep and vacuum the area. Remove any dust or cobwebs. Clean all surfaces with vinegar or a diluted bleach solution. Your grow room can be compromised by pests before you even start growing if you neglect a good cleaning. This is something you will want to commit to from time to time in any case. I generally clean my rooms at the end of each grow cycle to stay on top of any problems developing. It might seem tedious, but this is far less work than getting rid of an infestation in the middle of a grow cycle!
Bungee cords are a cheap and effective way to keep polyurethane barriers secured while you work in your garden. Hang from hooks so they can be used to easily tie back tarps.
After cleaning, your grow space must be prepared by tacking up polyurethane that is white on one side and black on the other. Both rooms should be lined on all sides with this wrap. Ceilings and floors need not be wrapped (ceilings are beyond the lights and floors are too high traffic and will need frequent clean up from small spills of water, dirt and plant material). Polyurethane can be bought relatively inexpensively in rolls at a hydroponic store or even garden center. When purchasing materials, the persona of a home cook interested in cultivating their own herbs year-round is a nice, safe identity to assume to avoid arousing any suspicion.
You may have heard that silver Mylar is best for this lining your walls with, since it is highly reflective, but really, it isn’t necessary. The white polyurethane is an excellent light reflector and much sturdier. It is less prone to rip and can be wiped clean with ease, so skip the Mylar. The plastic on these rolls is thick enough that a portion cut to size can be hung as a “wall” in a grow space that has been bisected into two rooms, as mine has. In fact, using polyurethane as a barrier is highly efficient because it can easily be secured and made light-tight with Velcro bought in rolls or tabs. Also, it can easily be rolled, as one would a tarp or tent fly, and secured to the upper extent of a wall or the adjoining ceiling using bungee cords hung from hooks.
When lining your grow room, you will need a staple gun to secure the polyurethane to walls or, in the case of an unfinished space such as a basement, exposed studs. The latter is fine: finished walls are redundant after lining the grow area. One important tip you should consider: to reduce the likelihood of rips, cut up small squares of cardboard to place over the poly when stapling. By stapling through the cardboard, you will secure the plastic in a way that minimizes the chance of a rip if it is tugged or stretched. Replacing polyurethane that has been ripped mid-grow is a time consuming job that is definitely no fun.
1. Best to do this semi-frequently so that you minimize “burning” the nutrients onto the trays.
2. Always use disinfected pots and trays to avoid transferring problems like insects or infections from one generation of plants to the next.
3. It is best to clean outside or in a basement – it can be messy. Keep in mind privacy considerations: avoid conspicuous cleaning of numerous pots and tools that may tip off a nosy neighbour.
4. Dispose of used soil, roots, etc. before starting. Do not “recycle” soil, since soil that has been subjected to more than three months of heavy nutrient use can be depleted and can result in “soil-lock”. Always start with fresh soil in each grow.
5. Use gloves and work clothes as you will be using bleach.
6. Solution: 9 parts hot water, 1 part bleach (quarts).
7. Use scrub brushes and scouring pads.
8. Let stubborn stains soak. Scrub. Soak again. Repeat.
9. Air dry. Pots must, MUST be allowed to dry fully before use. Otherwise bleach residue could harm plants.
10. Once dry, rinse pots well. Ideally, use a hose to save time and effort when sterilizing many pots. Let them air dry again.
11. Sterilized pots and trays can be returned to the grow room to dry to minimize hassle and security concerns.
12. Remember to sterilize stakes also – they can carry infection too!
A cardboard box cut into little squares is an effective way to ensure that staples don't rip polyethylene sheeting. Use these when constructing your grow room and have extras on hand in case repairs are needed.
Next, you will need to make two trips: one to a local hardware store, and a second to a local grow or hydroponics shop; these can be found in most medium size cities these days. At the hardware store, you will need to purchase tools necessary for the installation of the lights and setup of timers. You will also need to pick up a number of tools (e.g. shears and at least one set of small, sharp scissors, hooks and chains for hanging lights, etc.) and other odds and ends such as buckets, a plastic measuring cup and spoons and more. If you are on a budget, many of these materials can be located in dollar stores. You definitely will not want to skimp on your hardware (such as lights) or “software” such as seed and nutrients, but you don’t exactly need a set of pewter measuring spoons. A bargain bin plastic set will do the job more than adequately. Refer to the photo essay below (“A Grow Room Shopping List”) for more details.
At your hydroponics store, you will be able to buy necessary products that won’t be available at either a hardware store or garden center. You might assume, wrongly, as I did when setting up my first garden, that the lighting section of the hardware store would have the bulbs and ballast equipment you need. Wrong. You need to go to the pros for this stuff. Come prepared and read online before going so that you know what you are looking for and can save time, or at least have a better idea of what questions to ask staff. Here, you can buy the nutrients needed for your grow. Go slowly: you don’t need to buy every advanced nutrient, additive or gadget. This trip can get expensive quickly, so keep it simple. Your “local” should also stock a variety of plastic pots, trays and the like. They will have dry soil mixes, which are much less likely to be infested with pests than bagged potting soil from the hardware store (another place you definitely don’t want to skimp to save a few bucks!).
1. Talk to NO ONE about your new hobby. You will anyway, but don’t. You can never take this back. It is normal to want to discuss, even brag about your new project. But resist the urge.
2. Even someone you trust may talk about your grow to others that are less trustworthy.
3. Consider the 24 Hour Rule: when tempted to talk about your garden to someone new, wait for a full day. If it still seems like a good idea at that time, okay. You might be surprised how often a second thought will result in a closed mouth!
4. Garbage disposal: to avoid risk of detection, dispose of anything that might cause suspicion in secured garbage bags. Avoid recycling materials (e.g. seed pods or empty nutrient bottles) if they might be discovered, for instance by someone searching for returnable alcohol bottles in your bins. Opt for the garbage instead.
5. Leaves culled from plants and trim from harvest can be kept in a green bin in your grow room work area. When disposing of vegetative material, be sure to hide this green garbage in food scraps, for instance.
6. Make a habit of conducting weekly checks for smell or any other sign that might advertise your garden. Take steps to address security “leaks” proactively.
7. Soil that has been spent can easily be spread in a home garden if you have access to one. You may want to spread it after dark or as part of regular home gardening (the non-cannabis variety) to avoid attracting suspicion.
• You can get a lot of stuff at your local hardware store (but not lights!). You should go to a hydroponic store for “dedicated” grow tools and nutrients, such as these from General Hydroponics:
• Demineralized water
• Spray bottle of water for clones
• Nutrients and nutrient guide
• Measuring cup, water bucket, and spoons
• Seed/clone pods, bubbles, trays, medium (1 gallon)
• Large pots (3 gallon) with holes in base for drainage
• Potting soil
• Newspaper for lining pots (keep in soil/roots)
• Stakes and green garden ties (for maximizing proximity to lights as they grow)
• Lights, such as the T5 fluorescents used in my garden
• Flashlight for checking the garden and electrics in the dark
• Fans for air circulation
• Exhaust fan and carbon air filter
• Dehumidifier
• Air fresheners (needed closer to harvest)
• Black/white tarp or Mylar
• Hooks and yarn, wire or fishing line (for dry room)
• Square pieces of lumber, to raise or lower plants under the lights
• Bungee cords, one foot long (for easy stowing of tarp covers when working)
• Power bars (safety concerns)
• Timers that can work simultaneously in different rooms
• Green light (for when you need to go in there during dark periods)
• Big cutter (for harvest) and “nimble” scissors (for everything else)
• Rooting gel
• Rubbing alcohol (for sterilization) and paper towel for cleaning your garden scissors
• Rags for clean up
• Green bin (for daily culling of dead leaves, etc.)
• Gloves for plant maintenance and harvest to prevent contact highs
• Tape and Sharpie for labeling
• Lock for security
• Tubing for passive air flow
• Mason jars for curing/storage
• Extension cords
• Cardboard for stapling up tarps
• Staple gun
• Vinegar/bleach for cleaning, plus scrub brush and scouring pads
• Small scale to measure harvests
• Tape measure to track growth
• Grow journal (hard copy or computer, whichever is more secure and convenient for your purposes)
• Thermometer for temperature/humidity. Some can record daily highs/lows which is very useful
Seeds ready for germination. Be sure to store unused seeds in a cool, dry, and dark place. An old coffee can with an airtight plastic lid is a great, nondescript container that won't warrant a second look.
Buy the Seed and Your Garden Will Grow
You may or may not be able to buy actual cannabis seeds at your local hydroponics outfit. Some stores stock all equipment needed to grow marijuana except for the actual marijuana itself. In many cities, it is possible to purchase seeds from a dedicated store. Depending on your personal connections, you might also be able to score seeds from a friend or compassion club if one is located nearby. These can be easily searched online or even through the many smartphone applications available for this and other purposes related to the cultivation and enjoyment of cannabis. You may also be able to buy seeds online. You will definitely want to grow from seed and avoid clones or even more mature plants unless you are dead positive that they are pest-free, and this is a difficult determination to make since few gardeners are going to invite you in for a peek, even if they are gracious enough to share some DNA.
It should go without saying, but you will want to buy a strain that is appropriate to both your grow situation and tastes. Some strains grow taller or wider than others. Some, like the appropriately named Skunk or Skunk crosses, are stinky, others almost without odor. Some are hardy and thus make good choice for beginners. Others are more fragile and even demanding in the requirements of their care. Then there is the matter of taste and effect. Even if you’ve been casually (or more seriously) enjoying marijuana for years, you may be unaware of the wide variety of “finishes” and effects available across strains. Appreciation of marijuana is not unlike sommeliers’ classifications of fine wine. Some provide a “head” high, an effect amusingly described as “a good daytime pot, for the workday” by someone at a seed store I frequent. Others provide a definite “body” stone – something that can induce “couch lock” (yes, just like it sounds) if enjoyed in even a moderate dosage. Some strains are better for pain relief or stress reduction, others for sleep, still others for the stimulation of appetite. You might be looking for a specific combination of these effects depending on whether your purposes are medical, recreational or some combination of the two.
This delicious Blueberry bud from OtherSide Farms showcases the strain’s gorgeous structure and ample trichome production.
One thing is for certain: before you buy any seeds, do your research. Many seed sites online detail all of the above characteristics and some even give percentages of THC content, the ingredient that causes the much desired high. As with alcohol content, higher THC loads mean either a more serious high and/or the necessity to consume less to gain the desired effect. It’s useful to consider the difference in kick between a beer (low content) to wine (mid content) to whisky (high content). THC levels in pot work on essentially the same principle. One truly excellent phone application is Leafly, or its online version, leafly.com. Both provide a strain guide with literally hundreds of different varieties, pictures, user reviews, assessments and described effects. It is a great place to start your search. This is a fun activity in itself, much like creating a wish list for Santa.
One other piece of advice I would offer when choosing a strain is that seeds will vary in price based upon several factors. These are availability, popularity and whether or not the seeds are “feminized.” The first two are out of your control, but you will pay more for rare seeds and definitely for seeds that are the “it” strain at any given time. If you want to find strains that offer great value at reduced price, do an online search for “Cannabis Cup winners.” The Cannabis Cup is an award given annually to the top strain or strains based on an internationally held competition within the marijuana cultivation community. Recent winners, like the Tangerine Dream that I will detail in this grow journal, will tend to be pricier. You can get good value however by searching for winners of previous years. Though their popularity will often have receded over time, they were good enough to be one-time winners. It doesn’t matter that they are old news with the pros: they’ll be new to you in any case. For instance, I really enjoy the Blueberry strain, but it is much cheaper than the newer Tangerine as it has been on the market for some time. Nonetheless, it is a fantastic smoke, grows beautifully and provides excellent value for money.
Feminization is a treatment that increases the chance that germinated seeds will produce female rather than male plants. Since females are the only gender that you will want to grow for now, feminized seeds are a plus. Males are necessary for strain development through generational genetic manipulation achieved by crossbreeding, but their presence at sexual maturity must be avoided when bringing cannabis plants to harvest. You will want to nuture the plump buds of unfertilized females without any male interference – and feminized seeds work! Though some will invariably produce male plants, as you will see from the grow I will profile, I had a 100% rate of female cultivation from seven seeds in three different (feminized) strains. This is much higher than the more typical 50-60% rate of female production that I have had in the past when growing from non-feminized seed, for instance, as in my trusted Master Kush. Whatever you purchase, be sure to buy at least four or five seeds of each strain so that you will definitely be able to produce multiple females.
One final consideration with respect to buying seeds and supplies: you may choose to pay in cash to reduce your “electronic footprint.” Bank statements and credit card bills may expose suspicious purchases, whereas cash leaves no trail, with no details about you. This may seem paranoid, but consider your own comfort level. If this is something that might keep you awake at night down the road, pay in cash. Growing marijuana should be relaxing and rewarding, not a source of stress.
Be sure to account for daylight savings time. Check timers occasionally to ensure that everything is actually running according to schedule.
If you follow the instructions in this book, you should be able to set up your room(s), buy all tools, supplies and seeds and start growing for under $1000, give or take. This initial investment can easily be recouped in the space of only a handful of grows. You will be saving money in no time, and having fun to boot.
After storing your supplies, you will need to install your lights and set up timers. Be sure to test all electronic devices so that they are working smoothly before you crack open a single seed packet. Test lights before hanging by plugging into an outlet. Ensure that light ballasts (the metal appliance the light bulbs or tubes sit in) and reflectors have been wiped clean of fingerprints and dust. Lights should be hung from cables or light chains suspended from hooks that are secured well in a ceiling stud. This allows for easy movement of the lights: upwards as the plants grow toward them and downwards when they are removed and replaced with the next, much smaller generation to be brought to harvest. Check and recheck to ensure that lights are firmly secured – a fallen light is a costly mistake in its own right. It would also mean certain death for any plants underneath.
The devil’s in the details: take the time to set up your grow room well and you will avoid headaches later.
Timers should be set and checked to ensure that they are working accurately. If you have dedicated veg and bud rooms, you will need dedicated timers for the lights in each room. If you live in a jurisdiction that has different charges for electricity depending on the time of day, you might want to set timers to light the rooms during the cheapest periods possible, generally at night. You can avoid snagging wires by securing them well before you begin your grow, particularly if they will hang down (for instance if you must run an extension cord across a ceiling). Spend as much time as possible perfecting your setup, anticipating even the smallest problem, and this will go a long way to reducing headlines down the road. It will also increase your chances of enjoying a successful grow.
Three cheers for green lights! A green spectrum LED flashlight is also a great tool to have on hand.
There is one other light, a non-specialized one, in which you will want to invest. A green spectrum light for the area just outside your grow room(s) is a must if at all possible. Cheap and widely available, a green bulb is necessary for those times that you must access your garden when one or both parts are in their dark cycle. This is something that all gardeners must do from time to time, for instance, if you need to water plants early when leaving for an overnight trip. Having this light and a couple of spare bulbs on hand is a great decision to make. When your green bulb burns out after the stores are closed and you desperately need to get into your grow room while it’s dark, you’ll be thankful that you thought ahead.
Small fans should be present in each grow room. If you have vented your room(s) (in a light-tight way, see diagram: venting your grow room) to allow for passive air exchange as you should have, fans aren’t necessary, strictly speaking. However, they provide important air circulation and promote growth of strong stems by forcing plants to strain against the air currents they create. Moreover, they will moderate temperatures if things get too hot in your grow rooms. They’re cheap, they’re quiet and they are easy. Use them.
The first question for the new grower is what type of lights to purchase. Whatever type you ultimately select, ensure that they are equipped with a reflective hood to maximize light absorption. White polyethylene sheeting to increase the overall reflectivity of the room is also a must.
There are four main considerations in choosing lighting apparatus:
1. Wattage or “lumens” of light produced. Generally, more is better and will increase your yield. However, more is not always better.
2. Cost of the light. You will want to purchase the best, most efficient light you can afford. The best light is likely the one that will best maximize the size of your grow room or closet. Important: never, never, never skimp on lights that may be unsafe. A burned down home is your worst grow result of all time!
3. The amount of energy required to operate your light. Remember that these lights will be on most of the time. You should calculate how much new lights will add to your energy bill on a monthly basis. Also, keep in mind that as a security consideration, increased energy use is more likely to raise suspicion from authorities. For this reason, growing with T5 fluorescent lights is more secure than HPS and other more powerful lighting systems - they are less likely to cause telltale energy spikes on 18/12 and 12/12 cycles that a utility company might be tracking.
4. Heat produced by the light. A high amount of heat energy released is inefficient in terms of energy use; though it can warm a cool grow room. However, too much heat may require you to use additional fans or air conditioners to reduce room temperatures. This can be a hassle, is costly, and may not be an option depending on your grow conditions. As a rule, I would suggest that it is easier to warm your rooms than to cool them.
Obviously, increased wattage/lumens produced increases your grow potential. However, the hotter the light, the further plants must be moved away from it, which of course reduces the amount of lumens received. This might seem like a Catch-22, so what is the solution?
I would suggest a good T5 light. Although a T5 is a fluorescent light, it is the highest efficiency fluorescent. This is decidedly not your typical industrial fluorescent. The advantages of the T5 make it an easy choice: it produces more than sufficient lumens to conduct a successful grow with impressive yields. It is both cheaper to purchase and (much) cheaper to operate than High Intensity Discharge (HID), High Pressure Sodium (HPS) or Metal Halide (MH) lamps. These ones are for the “pros” and are overkill for most home grows. Given how much heat these lights produce, they also present the potential of an increased fire risk when compared to T5s, a real consideration if you are growing in cramped conditions. Also, because the T5s are so much cooler (and don’t require a separate ballast system that adds to setup cost, energy use and heat generated), you can snuggle your plants very close underneath them. This maximizes light exposure and absorption, and makes up for being less powerful compared to their more traditionally used cousins.
What’s the downside? Keeping your plants close to the lights can cause burns if you don’t check your plants frequently. Checking them is a daily job and can be a bit of extra work jockeying lights around on chains and/or moving shelves around to most effectively situate the plants. Still, this is the safest, cheapest, easiest setup for most novices. Even the sales staff at my local hydroponics store advised I go this route when I got started, and they were giving up the possibility of me purchasing a more expensive light setup. I continue to appreciate their honesty and good advice!
You will also want to purchase both “warm” and “cool” bulbs. The former are in the red light spectrum and are meant for use in the bud room, the latter are in the blue spectrum, and are meant for vegetative growth. Though these will last for months at a time, it is a good idea to have several spares of each on hand, in case you lose a light to burn out when your local hydroponics store is closed or otherwise inaccessible.
With lights assembled and installed in the grow room(s), they must be put on timers. Marijuana will grow or “vegetate” without budding when in light for more than twelve hours per day. The exception to this are “auto-flowering” strains, which come with other pros and cons. We will consider these more fully elsewhere.
When the plants are reduced to a cycle of twelve hours of light, twelve hours of darkness, they will begin the process through full maturity to budding. Why? Because this light schedule approximates the end of a natural outdoor growing season, when the plants usually bud. This is where you’ll finally be able to see the bud you’re doing all this work to produce.
That’s it. You’re lit up and ready to grow.
This passive air vent is light-tight. It is curved behind the polyethylene tarp to ensure light gets neither in nor out, but allows for the intake of air to replace that which is vented outside.
Note the tube curving away from the hole. A snake behind the curtain is your goal here.
Plastic shelves with adjustable leg heights are an easy way to maintain short and taller plants under a single light source.
The final task is also one of the most potentially labor intensive: venting the grow room. The best way to ensure even, regular circulation of new air into your rooms is to install a venting fan. These fans can (and should) be attached to drums that contain carbon filters. When used in conjunction with one another, these two things will reduce the telltale odors associated with marijuana to nearly zero. Ideally, you will be able to vent your room to the outside. Most units are fairly quiet; mine can be heard only faintly in the next room and outside is inaudible from about five feet away. Close up, it sounds similar to the vent from a furnace or dryer. In fact, if you can place it in close proximity to one of these, this is a great cover. Carbon filters generally need to be replaced every 12 to 24 months. They are invaluable for keeping your daily grow as a secret garden. The only other consideration is that your vent fan should be placed in the bud room if at all possible. Plants in the veg room will produce little if any smell since they are sexually immature. It is only the valuable bud that will stink. If you will be placing budding plants in a veg room (for instance, in the case of growing autoflowering strains which benefit from a more continuous light cycle, even when flowering), you should create a vent between rooms and ensure that a small fan moves air out of the veg room and into the bud room for expulsion.
1. Check the maximum height that you’ll have for growth. At least four feet clearance is ideal. Remember that lights will hang down from the ceiling, reducing the amount of room plants have to grow vertically.
2. Locate studs and install hooks from which lights will be hung. Attach chains on which to hang/move lights. Check that chains will hang easily on hooks BEFORE you buy (i.e. that chain loops are wide enough to fit over the hooks).
3. In the case of concrete floors, cover with plywood or some other insulating material that can be cleaned easily when spills occur.
4. Install ventilation from the exterior grate into the grow room for passive air flow. Snake the ventilation tubing so that no light escapes from either end of the grate.
5. Staple polyethylene tightly onto the walls. Use cardboard pieces to avoid ripping.
6. Hang a thermometer so that temperatures can be monitored easily and a green light bulb for working during times when the lights must be kept off. If possible, buy a thermometer that measures relative humidity as well as temperature. Some units will record daily highs/lows: this is invaluable for seeing how hot/cold your rooms are running at times you aren't there.
7. Place fans in appropriate locations, out of the way.
8. Install exhaust fan and carbon filter in Bud Room. Follow manufacturer’s instructions. If possible, vent to the outdoors.
9. Secure all wires. Minimize risk of wires falling into water. Power bars and timers should sit well clear of your grow area.
10. Install a lock and/or camouflage your grow room. Trust no one!
11. Create a work area outside the grow room if possible. It’s a plus, as is a dedicated drying area.
12. Ensure that cleaning supplies are ready for use. Review how to “clean up” your area: can you sweep the area directly outside your grow rooms clean of all evidence of your hobby in five minutes or less? This should be your goal, in case of an emergency.
Happy cannabis, with buds starting to plump up under the warm embrace of T5 fluorescents.
The only other consideration in terms of room setup is ensuring that floors are warm, at least moderately so. Cold floors, such as concrete floors in a basement, can stunt plant growth. A thin layer of plywood or plastic shelves placed between plant trays and concrete is all that is required. Warming mats and the like are for the most part an unnecessary expense.
The room is built. The materials have been purchased. Setup is complete. Now, we’re ready to start our grow. Onward!
