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INTRODUCTION

The Chamonix Valley seen from the Cosmiques Arête (Alpine Mountaineering, Route 1)

Chamonix, the place of dreams, the home of huge glaciated mountains, including western Europe’s highest peak, Mont Blanc; the playground of serious mountaineers … in summer alpinists frequent the sheer rocky faces and steep icy couloirs, in winter extreme skiers launch themselves down audacious slopes and aspirant North Face climbers tackle the cold dark ice faces.

There is another Chamonix, one that offers a plethora of different mountain activities for those who are searching for a mountain holiday not confined to one sport. There are walks both on and off glaciers for all levels; easily accessed climbs for beginners as well as experts; bike rides both on and off road for those just learning how to pedal as well as those looking for daredevil jumps and long hard ascents; miles of trails perfect for runners; and, if you know where to look, there are some very adventurous walks and via ferrata which venture onto terrain normally off limits for non-climbers. Add to this a practical and reliable infrastructure of public transport and lift systems, which make Chamonix an easily accessible and user-friendly resort. Put succinctly, Chamonix is a playground for anyone looking for adventure in whatever form, against one of the most splendid and inspiring mountain backdrops you could dream of.

This guide aims to open up this world of multi-activity to anyone who wants to explore it. Classic hikes and challenging adventurous expeditions are described, along with walks that will suit all the family, from dog to granny. Regular valley mountain bike routes are included here as well as the very latest in dedicated descents using cable cars and the fabulously spectacular ‘Dirt Zones’ and bike parks – strictly for those under 30 with shock-absorbing bodies as well as bikes. The most popular and accessible rock-climbing venues are also briefly outlined, with some of the favourite moderate routes described as well as the increasingly popular bouldering sites.

Approaching the Chéserys Slabs (Rock Climbing, Area 4)

Walks up to mountain huts will appeal to those who fancy a night far from the madness of town, where you can watch the sun set while enjoying true mountain hospitality. Meanwhile, those who like their adventure sprinkled with a frisson of verticality will savour the two via ferratas that are not too far from Chamonix to be feasible in a day.

Finally, other activities are noted and there is a full list of guidebooks for each activity where these exist, in addition to information on resources and valley facilities.

This is a book designed to inspire, to motivate and to inform but it doesn’t stand alone: for the walks you’ll require a proper map; for climbing, via ferrata and for glacier travel you’ll need appropriate experience and equipment, topos and maybe even a Mountain Guide.

This is your starting point – the rest of your adventure is up to you!

The region

Chamonix is in the Haute Savoie region of France and is situated about an hour’s drive from Geneva airport. The valley runs south-west to north-east, with the Vallorcine valley continuing to the Swiss frontier. However, although known as ‘Chamonix Mont Blanc’, the actual summit of that mountain falls squarely within the territory of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, which is a source of contention between the two towns and means that Saint-Gervais can claim the distinction of being the highest municipality in western Europe.

Sunset on the Chamonix Aiguilles

Chamonix is at an altitude of 1050m and the valley in which it lies is formed by the Mont Blanc massif to the east and the Aiguilles Rouges to the west. Originally gouged out by the huge forces of the glaciers, the continuing slow erosion of the valley is now just due to the Arve, the main river.

The Mont Blanc massif itself straddles the frontiers of France, Italy and Switzerland, and travel from Chamonix into Italy and Switzerland is very easy. It is said that Chamonix is the third most visited natural site in the world and certainly on a busy day in high season you could easily believe that all the world is strolling down Chamonix main street!

It’s important to get a fix on the two sides of the valley as they provide very different terrain for mountain adventures. Generally, people refer to the north-facing (Mont Blanc massif) and south-facing (Aiguilles Rouges) sides of the valley, although really they are more north-west and south-east facing. The important thing is that the glaciers have to all intents and purposes died away on the north side (Aiguilles Rouges) so this is where you can hike, bike and climb in non-glaciated terrain, while the south side forms the slopes of the massif and that’s where you go for snow and ice.

Glaciers

The Mer de Glace may be shrinking but the scenery is nonetheless fabulous. Near the Lacs Noirs (Classic Walks, Route 5)

Chamonix is dominated by its glaciers and glaciated peaks and they will form the backdrop for almost any hike, ride or climb in the region. The valleys have been carved by ice and what remains of these huge frozen rivers is what many people now come to see.

Chamonix has about 40 glaciers – it’s said that from La Flégère cable car top station you can see 14 of them all at once. There are two very striking ones, the Bossons Glacier and the Mer de Glace Glacier. These are each quite different, the Bossons Glacier being very steep and moving at around 250m a year, while the Mer de Glace is relatively flat for much of its length and moves at a leisurely 50m a year. But what they and all other glaciers in the region have in common is that they are very much smaller and shorter than they were 150 years ago.

Previously the glaciers snaked all the way down to the main Chamonix valley, and 15,000 years ago ice filled the Chamonix valley and onwards all the way to Lyon. The glaciers have been retreating, with small exceptions, for the last 150 years. While this is not the first time that the temperatures have warmed up, it’s certainly the fastest change known about and threatens to have consequences far more wide-ranging than just shortening the ski season.

Nevertheless, the glaciated scenery still adds immensely to any mountain adventures in the Chamonix region. The glaciers look their best after a light dusting of snow, giving them a fresh coat of paint. On sunny days the ice picks up the rays and throws them back, glinting and sparkling; on cloudy days the glaciers reflect the grey. So pick your activities carefully – save those especially picturesque hikes, climbs and rides for a perfect day.

Flowers and animals

Whether you’re hiking, climbing, running or biking, there’s lots to see in the Alps. Throughout the summer there will be flowers to spot, from abundant valley flowers in the meadows early in the season, to tiny alpine rarities at high altitude as the season progresses.

Some easy ones to identify are:

 Alpenrose A rhododendron bush present from the valley floor up to about 2500m. The pink alpenrose flowers carpet the slopes throughout July.

Alpenrose

 Trumpet gentians These are the first gentians to appear and are bright blue and trumpet shaped.

 Alpine gentians Tiny blue stars above about 2000m.

 Edelweiss Usually found on limestone terrain so they are few and far between in the Chamonix valley but could well be spotted in the limestone foothills, and in people’s gardens.

 Houseleek Commonly grows on rocks or house roofs. This succulent plant can grow in very little earth and is to be found low down in the valleys in early summer, where it grows quite tall (around 30cm is not unusual). A different variant is also found way up, on the highest slopes, around 2500–3000m and is tiny with striking deep pink flowers.

 Martagon lily You might spot one of these exotic pink flowers during July, usually around 1200–1800m, often among vegetation. They are protected and very special.

Martagon Lily

The forest is also interesting. The main trees in the Chamonix forests are:

 Larch Providing the best wood for building, this tree has enough resin in its trunk to not need any treatment when used for construction. All the old reddish-coloured wooden chalets in the valley are made from larch. It’s also used for ship’s masts as it grows tall and straight. This deciduous conifer loses its needles in winter, which means it turns a nice golden tinge in the autumn giving some colour to the slopes.

Larch

 Spruce These are the classic Christmas trees, green all year round. Most Chamonix forest largely consists of larch and spruce.

 Silver birch These light grey trees are common at valley level. They are often bent over from the winter snow but are generally supple enough to bear it.

 Arolla pine Often seen at the upper edge of the treeline, these long needled pines have very heavy seeds, much favoured by birds, which tend to store them in rocky crevices where the seeds then set roots. Very slow to grow, these sturdy trees can reach several hundred years old.

 Alder More of a bush than a tree, the alder is often found on forested hillsides, where there are gullies bare of any other trees. These are slopes that avalanche routinely in the winter and the alder is the only tree that likes such wet and mobile conditions.

There are also lots of wild animals and birds inhabiting the valley and slopes. A quiet approach is more likely to give you a sighting, but sometimes the animal will either be unaware of your presence or just not care. During your stay you’ll probably catch at least fleeting glimpses of alpine animals. Here’s the list of the main ones to watch out for.

 Marmots Usually heard rather than seen at first as their high-pitched warning whistle gives away their presence. Keep your eyes open on rocky slopes or grassy meadows.

Marmot

 Chamois Often spotted early morning or late evening in the higher forests. This goat–deer hybrid has small horns that hook backwards and long legs.

 Ibex This mountain goat prefers rocky terrain and will be found high up on shaly rocky slopes. It’s a sturdy creature, often seen in groups, but if you’re lucky enough to come across an old male he’ll most likely be alone.

Ibex are seen quite often but not always this close

 Stoats These energetic little creatures will sometimes be spotted scurrying around boulders. They look sweet but can be vicious to anyone outside of family. In winter they are white with a black tip to their tails and called ermine.

 Deer Small deer (chevreuil) are quite commonly seen in the forests, usually from behind as they make a fast getaway. Larger deer are less commonly spotted although at night they often cross the roads and care should be taken when driving around the Chamonix valley after dark. Whether you see them or not, the deer are there in the forest and their droppings are often seen. You’re most likely to encounter them at dusk.

 Foxes These are numerous in the Chamonix region but luckily haven’t yet adopted the habits of the town fox, which is seen as a pest. Foxes here live wild and so far don’t seem to be too interested in the McDustbin ready meal … long may it stay like this.

 Vipers These snakes are commonly found on hot tracks in the afternoon – there’s a fair chance of coming across one slumbering on the trail if you’re at reasonably low altitude (below 1000m). Getting bitten hurts and you’ll need medical attention, so be careful where you put your feet and don’t wear sandals when hiking.

 Butterflies On southern slopes expect to see lots of butterflies in the height of the summer. The large white Apollo is easy to spot as it flits around slowly from flower to flower.

Apollo butterfly

 Golden eagle If you look up and see a big bird circling over Vallorcine or Chamonix, the chances are it’s a golden eagle. They have a huge wingspan – well over 2m – and so they don’t need to flap much. The immature adults have white marks on the underside of their wings, which makes for easier identification.

 Alpine chough These black birds have a yellow beak and red feet and they will almost certainly join you at some point in the mountains for a picnic. They make a characteristic cheeping sound and are usually found at frequented passes and huts.

 Bearded vulture There are a few of these around, since they have been reintroduced in the Aravis range, just down the valley. These wonderful birds have a wingspan of almost 3m and an orange underbelly. If you see one, count yourself lucky. And don’t panic – they only eat bones.

There are lots more flowers, trees and animals to look out for, of course – this is just a very small selection. Basic flora and fauna books are available in English from the bookstores in Chamonix. Armed with these you’ll add another dimension to your walks, climbs and bike rides.

How it all started

The first ascensionists of Mont Blanc

The history of Chamonix is first documented in 1091, when an order of monks settled on the right bank of the Arve and the Priory was formed. No doubt people inhabited the valley for centuries before this; but living tucked away among the high mountains, cut off from the lower valleys for a good six months of the year and the rest of the time struggling to scrape some sort of existence, the inhabitants of the Chamonix valley didn’t attract any attention for many centuries.

Traditionally the peaks and glaciers struck fear into the hearts of the locals; the source of violent storms, avalanches, mud slides, often wreathed in clouds and battered by winds, such places could only be the cursed home of dragons and evil spirits.

The glaciers themselves gave cause for great concern in the 18th century when what is now referred to as the ‘Little Ice Age’ occurred. This caused the glaciers to increase in size at an alarming rate, pushing these frozen rivers down into the valleys where they threatened to destroy homes and farmland.

The Mer de Glace seen from the air

However, not everyone shared this fear of the glaciers and the destiny of Chamonix changed in 1741 when two English chaps, Wyndham and Pococke, set off from Geneva to visit Chamonix and discovered this rural mountain village, where people struggled to survive on what they could cultivate during the short summer season. Wyndham and Pococke were mesmerised and enchanted by the glaciers and having visited the Mer de Glace they left and spread the word. Soon, well-heeled visitors were flocking to Chamonix from all over Europe and it became a sought-after feature on any European Tour. By the 1770s, it is estimated that 1500 people a year were visiting Chamonix. The locals were quick to seize the opportunity and soon teams of ‘guides’ and porters were ready to lead these tourists onto the glaciers. Summit ascents soon followed, with Mont Blanc itself first climbed in 1786.

This growth in tourism equally lead to the construction of hotels and the formation of the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix in the early 19th century. In 1860 a road was built from Geneva to Chamonix, via Sallanches. This was also the year that Chamonix became French, having previously been attached to the mountain Kingdom of Savoy.

In 1901 the railway arrived in Chamonix, which enabled travel in winter, and by the middle of the 20th century not only did Chamonix boast a mountain railway and numerous cable cars but the town had also hosted the first Winter Olympics in 1924.

Today, Chamonix sees its permanent population grow from around 10,000 to 60,000 in the summer season, and on a sunny summer’s day more than 200 people may stand on the summit of Mont Blanc.

Mountain adventures

The valley base itself provides the full range of activities at a lower level. Whatever activity you decide on, it will be done against a jaw-dropping backdrop of glaciated peaks, soaring rocky spires, and deep rivers and gorges.

Walks

The beautiful Tré-les-Eaux valley (Adventure Walks, Route 5)

First and foremost, Chamonix is a region where people walk in the hills and it makes sense that this guide features lots of walks. Any walk can be an adventure, a discovery of a new path, a surprising view, a summit or a hamlet. One person’s stroll is another person’s challenge, so the walks are divided into different categories:

Classic Walks

These are the walks people come to Chamonix to do, the real classics, although obviously the choice is somewhat subjective. They vary in length but they almost all require hiking fitness and, apart from one hike, they involve significant ascent.

Family Walks

These are walks that can be done by most people, committed hikers or not. Children, dogs, the elderly – everyone can come along. However, check the details for each walk – there are some places where dogs have to be kept on a lead or not even taken at all. These walks all take you to scenic vistas and on pleasant trails, but without the relentless climbs so often a feature of alpine ascents, and without any dodgy bits for those who are not steady on their feet or who are totally unaware of danger.

Hut Walks

A hut provides a marvellous objective for a walk, maybe just for lunch or to spend the night. Huts are always interesting and are often an opportunity to meet local people and sample some regional specialities. Most huts enjoy fine views and a night spent in a mountain hut will almost always be an unforgettable experience –for various reasons. Even if you’re not keen on sleeping in close proximity to lots of other people, the evening spent watching the sunset from the terrace while sipping a home-made digestif and the morning with breakfast taken in the early sunshine while the rest of Chamonix is still in deep shade, should make it all worthwhile. If in doubt, just go for lunch.

Adventure Walks

These are the hikes that require lots of energy and a steady footing, and often a desire for an exposed ridge, a scramble or just a really challenging day out. These are not for children or dogs, and the times and distances should be taken into account.

THE EMOSSON LAKES REGION

Emosson Lake

The Lac d’Emosson and the Lac du Vieux Emosson are located to the north of Chamonix, just over the border in Switzerland. They form the northern edge of the area covered in this guide, and several walks are described there.

At the time of writing, this area is somewhat compromised aesthetically, and also from the point of view of access, by works which are currently underway and expected to last until at least 2018. These works revolve around the construction of a pump storage system, which requires the building of a tunnel from Le Châtelard down in the valley up to the Vieux Emosson Lake.

The main change for walkers is that access across the Emosson Lake dam is restricted and there is now a series of walkways and bridges to allow passage from one side of the dam to the other. There is also a shuttle bus service across the dam. There are trucks moving around the area between the two lakes, with associated buildings and debris but once you’re away from the immediate building site, the trails and the views are not affected.

However, there are plans to raise the height of the Vieux Emosson Lake dam in the next few years, which will undoubtedly impact on the east end of that lake.

All this said, the walks around Emosson are some of the best, so don’t let these works put you off – just go to the Emosson website for updated info (www.emosson-lac.ch) or contact the company in charge of the works on info@nant-de-drance.ch, tel +41 27 720 47 30.

Alpine mountaineering

Abseiling on the Cosmiques Arête (Alpine Mountaineering, Route 7)

While this book does not aim to describe hard climbs and ascents in the high mountains, there are glacier hikes and climbs that can be seen as entry-level routes to take hill-walkers onto glaciers, up to summits and onto rocky scrambles, but at a reasonably accessible standard.

Venturing onto the glaciers was once considered suicidal, which is why it took so long for anyone to find a route up Mont Blanc. These days, glacier travel is pretty routine for many mountaineers, but the attendant dangers haven’t really changed, except that it has been established that dragons probably don’t inhabit the peaks, or if they do they’re fairly innocuous.

The routes in this guide can be planned for a first alpine season, but it must be stressed that mountaineering in the Alps is potentially a deadly activity and each alpine summer sees many accidents on the peaks and glaciers, some of them fatal. Appropriate knowledge and training must be undertaken to climb safely in the high mountains and for this reason these walks and climbs are very often done with professional guides.

Mountain biking

Mountain biking near Le Tour (photo: Marc Volorio)

Chamonix has embraced the evolution of mountain biking over the last 20 years or so and now has several dedicated venues for descent and aerobatics. These places are briefly described in this book, but there are also lots of trails that lend themselves to knobbly tyres and low gears and the best of these rides are described.

However, the relationship between hikers and bikers remains fragile, so restrictions have been set and some trails are off limits, especially in the peak holiday season, July and August. Nevertheless, bikers and hikers can live in harmony and, thanks to these clear regulations, there are some really good rides where any mountain biker, from beginner to expert, can have a great time and not be shouted at or risk killing anyone in the process. A series of rides are detailed in this book, and reference is made to other resources for those who decide riding the trails is for them.

Road biking

Cycling on the road in the Alps has its roots in deep-seated tradition, with the annual Tour de France always passing through the alpine chain within view of Mont Blanc. However, until fairly recently it seemed to be the preserve of the bronzed and honed Lance Armstrong look-alikes. The last few years have seen an explosion in the popularity of the sport and now, as soon as the roads are snow-free, cyclists of all abilities are to be seen powering and puffing their way up the local passes. And there’s certainly plenty to go at, from the major passes of the Haute Savoie to minor roads that give a more varied and less relentless ride. There are also options to make life easier by riding from one place to another and taking the train back.

Trail running

Trail running is another activity that has massively increased in popularity in the last few years. Time was, when the odd lightly clad runner smoking past overburdened hikers on the trail was a fairly rare occurrence. Now it’s quite normal, especially when one of the local races is coming up. These days, people run year round in Chamonix, taking to the hard-packed snowy valley trails in the depth of winter. The prestigious Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc has ensured that Chamonix is fast becoming the Holy Grail of mountain running – and with good cause, given the vast array of trails available.

Rock climbing and bouldering

Sunny climbing on perfect rock at the central sector of Les Chéserys

Chamonix has a whole collection of crags in the valley, with approaches of just a few minutes. These crags all offer bolted climbing, with lots of routes in the more moderate grade range. Many crags are suitable for children too (as long as they’re well-behaved!). Just a few routes on each of the selected crags are described, but if sampling these climbs makes you want more, the local guidebooks will ensure a lifetime of climbing adventures.

In addition to the roped brigade, more and more climbers seem to have decided to forego the time, expense and weight of ropes and gear, and have taken to walking around with big pads. Several bouldering sites in and around the Chamonix valley cater to the needs of the Pad People.

Via ferratas

It’s perhaps surprising, but there are no real via ferratas in the Chamonix and Vallorcine valleys. There are lots of cabled sections of path (which often feature on the Adventure Walks) and some mountain hut approaches are enabled by ladders and chains. But there are no via ferratas where you need to use proper gear and where the cabled way is purely an entity in itself. However, if this is what you want to do, do not despair. An hour or so’s drive from Chamonix gives access to several via ferratas in the Haute Savoie region, all of which are listed here and two of which are described.

Other activities

There are lots of other sporty activities to occupy you in and around Chamonix. Here are some of them:

 Golf Chamonix boasts a fine course, the big attraction being the backdrop of prestigious peaks – Mont Blanc, the Drus, the Aiguille Verte, the Chamonix Needles … it doesn’t come much more scenic than this! Open every day from late April to early November.

 Tennis The courts are just off the Place Mont Blanc near the river and are open from early May to the end of September.

 Swimming The swimming centre has had a recent makeover and features various pools, indoors and out, with lots of exciting slides and other aquatic joys. Also near the Place Mont Blanc.

 Skating rink There’s an indoor Olympic rink and outdoor rink in winter, next to the swimming pool.

Planpraz is one of the main take-off zones for paragliders

 Paragliding Known as parapente in French, there are several take-off points from the Chamonix lifts. There is a special lift pass for paragliders. There are also several companies offering tandem rides. The world championships are regularly held at the Planpraz lift and this is a good place to go any hot summer’s day to watch people taking off. During July and August take-off is forbidden from the Aiguille du Midi.

 Rafting The River Arve seems to give a great rafting experience and there are several companies offering this in Chamonix.

 Canyoning Various good canyoning sites exist in and around Chamonix. The Compagnie de Guides in Chamonix offer guided descents.

Canyoning at Barberine, near Vallorcine

 Summer luge This thrilling toboggan ride is accessed by a chairlift at Les Planards, near the centre of town, just after the road crossing of the Montenvers railway.

 Indoor climbing There is a climbing wall at Les Houches for you to hone your skills.

Rainy day activities

Just occasionally it rains in Chamonix. Of course, hiking and biking are perfectly feasible in the rain but once the attraction of this wears off you might be looking for drier activities.

 The cinema often has films in English.

 The Alpine Museum is a good way to while away an afternoon.

 The Espace Tairraz has a fascinating crystals museum, the Musée des Cristaux. There is also an interactive alpine exhibition. An entrance ticket here also gets you entry to the Alpine Museum.

 The Petit Train Touristique offers a tour of town with guided commentary and would more or less keep you dry in the rain.

 The train journey to Martigny is worth doing and, once there, the St Bernard Dogs Museum is fun if you like dogs. The museum also contains an excellent historical overview of the region. The Fondation Pierre Gianadda exhibition centre, just across the road from the museum, is renowned among art lovers.

 The thermal baths in Saint-Gervais-les-Bains (www.thermes-saint-gervais.com) are not far away. Offering all sorts of cures and treatments, they provide a very relaxing way to spend a day during a mountain holiday.

And, finally, if it’s pouring with rain on the French side of Mont Blanc, it’s just possible it will be sunny on the Italian side. A bus service runs from Chamonix to Courmayeur, through the Mont Blanc Tunnel.

When to go

Hiking in the rain generally loses its appeal eventually

This partly depends on the activities you’re intending to do, but everything in this guide requires at least semi-summer conditions – in other words, the winter snow should have melted off most slopes. July and August are high season in Chamonix and at that time everything is open – hotels, cafés, huts and lifts. The latter are important for some walks and for certain types of mountain biking. However, June and September are also lovely months in the Alps, but be aware that if you’re depending on lifts or want to have the full choice of life in town, then this is not the time to come. On the other hand, for those who like peace and quiet the busy season from mid-July to mid-August is probably to be avoided.

As for the weather, this can be anything, anytime. The mountains create their own weather system so it’s impossible to say that one month will be better than another. There are a few pointers, though:

 If the weather becomes hot, it’s likely that storms will build up during the day. In this case it’s important to get going early in the morning so as to be finished before any storm activity. This is especially important if you’re going into the high mountains, on ridges, or on via ferratas or any cabled way.

 Bad weather, if it comes, usually doesn’t last very long. It’s far more likely to be really bad for a day or so then clear up than to be moderately rainy for a whole week.

 Rain in the valley is more than likely to fall as snow above 3000m or sometimes lower.

 If it’s pouring with rain in Chamonix, it might well be bright and sunny on the Italian side of the massif, in Courmayeur.

 Finally, these are the Alps – they are snowy at the top and green lower down. There is a reason for this beauty: it rains sometimes. Otherwise it would be desert.

Getting there and getting around

Chamonix is only an hour from Geneva airport, which is served by many airlines including some ‘low-cost’ ones. Various companies offer competitively priced transfers from the airport to Chamonix itself, but beware, some may require a full bus to guarantee the price.

Arrival by train is fairly simple. The Eurostar runs from the UK to Paris, where the TGV service will beam you to Saint-Gervais–Le Fayet in just a few hours. From there the train to Chamonix runs hourly.

The Mont Blanc Express makes it easy to get about

Chamonix is well served by public transport. The Mont Blanc Express train runs from Saint-Gervais–Le Fayet to Martigny every hour. This train can take bikes – five bikes per train is the official limit. The Chamonix Bus runs up and down the valley, as far as the Col des Montets in the summer. There is also a dedicated Chamonix Bus for bikes, with four services a day between Chamonix–Col des Montets and Chamonix–Le Tour.

If you’re using Chamonix accommodation then you can get a Carte d’Hôte card on arrival. This allows free travel on the train between Servoz and Vallorcine and on the Chamonix Bus.

Accommodation

There is a host of possibilities in and around Chamonix of all standards, from hotels (ranging from basic to luxurious) to gîtes to self-catering apartments to huts to campsites. But beware, many hotels are closed after the winter until mid-June, and during the French holidays (July and August) many hotels will be full, especially during the period 14 July–15 August. Reservation in advance at whatever type accommodation during this time is highly recommended.

Hotels

These range from five-star luxury to no-star basic. Chamonix itself has many hotels covering the full range, while the smaller places in the valley generally offer a more limited choice. Chamonix Tourist Office (www.chamonix.com) offers a reservation service and will also search for rooms available for a particular date.

Gîtes

There are two types of gîte: a regular gîte is a house available for rent for self-catering accommodation – these will often be big enough for several families; the other version is the gîte d’étape which offers basic accommodation in rooms or dormitories, with dinner and breakfast. These can be very good value and an excellent way to sample local food and culture.

Campsites

There are several sites in Chamonix itself and along the valley. Camping is generally not allowed outside of campsites.

Huts or refuges

The Cabane du Trient (photo: Nigel Jones)

It can be very pleasant to spend a night or two in a mountain hut when exploring the area. These vary greatly in the facilities they offer, from quite luxurious with showers and rooms to the most basic with just a dormitory and dining room. There are always toilets in or near the huts and usually in summer there is running cold water, but in high huts this can freeze overnight, meaning there is no water in the morning. Water in the huts is not always potable so you may need to buy bottled water.

Most huts are open from mid to late June to mid-September and there will be a guardian in residence. The guardian will cook the evening meal and breakfast, and many huts also offer picnic lunches too. They serve drinks, both soft and alcoholic. In some huts you can prepare your own food but this isn’t common in the huts described in this guide.

All huts described here have bedding and usually hut slippers are available, although this is not always the case.

Hut etiquette

You should always reserve at a hut before going, even if it’s just a phone call the night before. And it goes without saying that if you can’t get there for some reason you should call to cancel. If you have special dietary requirements then you should tell the guardian when you make your reservation. Equally, if you prefer to be in a room (if they exist) you should ask for that beforehand. There are no single-sex dormitories in European huts.

You should also ask about payment – some huts take credit cards but more often than not you pay in cash.

On arrival at a hut for the night you should greet the guardian and tell them who you are. At most huts you’re expected to remove your boots before going into the living area. The hut guardian will tell you what the procedures are for things like eating and rooms. Each hut is different, but the common factor is that the hut is the guardian’s home for the season and so you should treat the hut like someone else’s house.

On the Office de la Haute Montagne website (www.ohm-chamonix.com) you can find a list of all huts in the Mont Blanc massif with the dates they are open as well as contact numbers (see also Appendix A).

Tourist information

Starting up the chains in the Tré-les-Eaux valley (Adventure Walks, Route 5)

The Chamonix valley is served by several tourist offices, the main one of which, in Chamonix itself, has information for the whole valley. If you are looking for information about the smaller villages, you can go straight to their respective tourist offices. (See Appendix A for contact information.)

Much information can be gleaned from the Office de la Haute Montagne (OHM, www.ohm-chamonix.com, tel 04 50 53 22 08) in Chamonix and this is definitely a place to get to know. Situated next to the church, in the same building as the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, the OHM is open to all. Guidebooks and maps are available for consultation, and there is always someone on hand who will be able to update you on current conditions in the mountains. The weather forecast is also displayed in French and English on the wall outside.

Language

The language officially spoken in Chamonix is, of course, French. Chamonix itself is now so international that English (or a version thereof) is heard almost as much as French. However, having a smattering of French vocabulary is advisable and will endear you to the locals. At least greet people with ‘Bonjour’ and offer an ‘Au revoir’ when you leave. Add in a ‘Bonne journée’ and you’ll be doing well. ‘S’il vous plaît’ and ‘Merci’ tend to get you a smile too.

It is normal practice in France to say a greeting even in shops and Anglophones can appear quite rude if they don’t follow this custom. In the mountains ‘Bonjour’ is also expected, whether on foot, on a bike or at a belay on a climb.

A list of useful words and phrases is included in the glossary (Appendix B).

Health and safety

There are risks attached to all mountain activities, however safe the environment may seem. Accidents in the non-glaciated mountains range from sprained ankles to broken bones to much worse – some of the delightful trails described here traverse mountain sides where a fall off the path would probably have terrible consequences. Equally, mountain biking can be dangerous if you’re on a narrow trail or doing a fast descent. The glaciated hikes have their own associated risks, as do rock climbing and via ferratas.

Having taken all sensible precautions then these activities are there to be enjoyed, but it is crucial to do what you can to avoid accidents and then be prepared if they do happen.

Weather forecasts

Before you go out, it’s important to check the weather forecast. For an up-to-date weather forecast in French, tel 08 99 71 02 74 or go to: http://france.meteofrance.com. The following websites also have forecasts in English: www.chamonix-meteo.com and www.chamonix.com.

First aid

All walkers and climbers should carry a small basic first aid kit in their rucksacks. This should contain:

 Plasters

 Painkillers

 Antiseptic cream

 Crêpe bandage

 Penknife with scissors

 Latex gloves

 Antiseptic wipes

Emergencies

As a last resort for serious injuries you may need to contact the emergency services. The number to call is 112. This works throughout Europe.

In Chamonix the rescue service is run by the PGHM and they can be contacted directly on tel 04 50 53 16 89. It is also possible to send an SMS, which can be helpful if your mobile battery is low or the reception is very poor. You need to be able to tell them:

 Where – your exact location

 What – the precise nature of the problem

 Who – how many people and in what condition

 When – exactly when the accident happened

Rescue

Any rescue in the Alps is likely to be carried out by helicopter. Make your position visible for the helicopter and keep everyone and everything together, out of the way.

When the helicopter approaches, signal that you are the person who called by raising both arms diagonally. This tells the pilot, ‘Yes, I need help’ and ‘Yes, land here’.

If you do not need help raise one arm up diagonally and one arm down diagonally. This tells the pilot, ‘No, I do not need help’ or ‘No, do not land here’.

Insurance

Rescue and medical costs are charged in Europe so you do need insurance. The following companies provide good insurance schemes:

 The British Mountaineering Council www.thebmc.co.uk

 Snowcard www.snowcard.co.uk

 Access America www.accessamerica.com

 Austrian Alpine Club www.aacuk.org.uk

 Club Alpin Français www.ffcam.fr

How to hire a mountain guide

At the top of the Cosmiques Arête (Alpine Mountaineering, Route 3)

As mentioned, all the activities in this guide have associated guides or instructors and hiring such a person to take you on your chosen route, whatever it may be, should enhance your experience in many ways, while reducing or eliminating some of the potential for either failing on the route for one reason or another or having rather more of an ‘adventure’ than expected or desired.

Sometimes taking a guide is not just to provide a better day or a longer route; it’s actually a question of safety and in some situations may save you from disaster. The mountaineering routes in this book are inherently dangerous, so if you want to hike on the glaciers or climb the high peaks you either need to know what you’re doing or take along someone who does.

Chamonix has several guiding companies, the most well known and established being the town’s own group of guides, the Compagnie des Guides (www.chamonix-guides.com), which works out of the same building as the Office de Haute Montagne next to the church. Alternatively there are lots of independent guides of all nationalities, including the author’s own company Trekking in the Alps (www.trekkinginthealps.com), some of whom are resident full-time in Chamonix while others just spend the season in the area.

If you decide to hire a guide, it’s best to contact the company or person in advance and find out whether they are willing to guide your chosen route, what prior training they require of you, how many days they expect you to hire them for and what is their policy in case of bad weather.

Some routes, such as the glacier hikes, can usually be done without training days with the guide, whereas for Mont Blanc the guide will usually require that you do some acclimatisation routes beforehand, usually guided. It should be noted that Mont Blanc is subject to certain norms of guiding: a guide can take only one or two clients at a time and there is an established tariff.

When hiring a guide you should ask for their credentials. Here are the certifications required to guide in France:

 Hiking on non-glaciated terrain Accompagnateur en Montagne/International Mountain Leader; Guide de Haute Montagne/High Mountain Guide (IFMGA certified)

 Hiking and climbing on glaciers Guide de Haute Montagne/High Mountain Guide (IFMGA certified)

 Via ferrata Moniteur d’escalade; Guide de Haute Montagne/High Mountain Guide (IFMGA certified)

 Rock climbing Moniteur d’escalade; Guide de Haute Montagne/High Mountain Guide (IFMGA certified)

 Mountain biking Accompagnateur en Montagne with VTT qualification; Moniteur de VTT

 Road biking Moniteur Cycliste

Using this guide

Nearing the end of the Crochues traverse (Alpine Mountaineering, Route 5)

This is intended to be a guide to introduce you to lots of different activities, sending you in the right direction, giving you the basics but not a comprehensive guide to each activity. It is weighted towards hill walking at many different levels, but there is also plenty of information regarding travel on two wheels and for those who want to scale the cliffs of the region by whatever means. Local guidebooks for each activity are mentioned, where available.

If you’re coming to Chamonix with your family or a group of friends with different interests, or if you yourself fancy branching out and trying lots of adventures in the mountains rather than concentrating on one, then this is the book to buy.

Grades and timings

The walks are graded as Alpine Mountaineering, Adventure, Classic, Hut and Family. No further grades are given (apart from for Alpine Mountaineering routes); but each walk has distance (except Alpine Mountaineering) and altitude gain and you’ll get a good idea of what’s involved from the category a walk falls into and from information given in the text.

Timings are given for walks, but these are a guideline only. Do not treat the timings as a challenge. They are generally based on an ascent of 300m per hour or around 4km an hour.

For mountain biking the timings are based on those given in local information. For climbing timings are not appropriate, as the routes in this guide are generally one pitch or very short multi-pitch. The times given for via ferrata come from local information.

Road biking is so variable in speed that timings are not really possible. I know from personal experience that cyclists have very different speeds, not only for ascents but also for descents, so any attempt to give a timing seems to be of no real use. Distances and altitudes are given and this should be enough to calculate whether you’ll be back for lunch or should take a picnic.

Maps

The French Institut Géographique National Top 25 series maps are the best for the activities described here. The ones needed are:

 3630 OT Chamonix Mont Blanc

 3531 ET Saint-Gervais-les-Bains

 3530 ET Samoëns

 3531 OT Megève

 3530 OT Cluses Sallanches

A 1:50,000 map is useful to get an overview of the region, and for the road biking routes. The whole area is covered by the IGN Rando Editions map A1 Alpes Pays du Mont Blanc.

If you use a GPS, programme it to datum WGS84 and grid system UTM/UPS otherwise all grid references will be inaccurate.

Referred to as cable cars, chairlifts or gondolas, lifts are written in French as téléphérique, télésiège and télécabine and shown with a symbol on the maps.

Equipment

A well-equipped hiker is a happy one. Descending from the Grands Montets (Alpine Mountaineering, Route 2)

While some activities require more gear than others, and the knowledge of how to use it, certain essentials are common to all mountain activities. A map and compass are recommended unless you already know where you’re going. Even then, you’ll be out in the hills where the weather can change and fog can make it difficult to find your way back, so it would seem prudent to always go equipped with navigation tools. The other gear that is common for all activities is appropriate warm clothing, drink and some food, as well as the first aid kit mentioned above.

Other gear is particular to different activities, as outlined below.

Walking

First and foremost, whichever walks you go for, this guide alone will not suffice; you need to buy the local 1:25,000 maps. This book includes sketch maps for each route, but these do not stand alone – they are for location and guidance before you set out.

Other requirements are basic, but essentials shouldn’t be overlooked – the weather can change very quickly in the Alps and a hail storm at 2500m can have serious consequences if you don’t have any warm gear. Shoes or boots should have good soles, as a slip can be fatal even on the simplest alpine path. Trekking poles are optional but make life easier, faster and less arduous.

Alpine mountaineering

As well as regular walking equipment, glacier travel requires gear – crampons, harness, rope and associated hardware. You need to know how to travel safely on a glacier and these skills can only be learnt in practice. (See Appendix D.) If in doubt take a High Mountain Guide.

Trail running

The trails in Chamonix are often rocky and a slip can have bad consequences. Running shoes with a really good sole are essential. Many people use very lightweight poles for ultra-long runs. A hydration sac is better than a bottle in hot conditions as more fluid can be carried on your back, whereas a hand-held bottle can be cumbersome when running on trails.

Mountain biking

Sometimes you have to wonder why you bothered taking the bike …

Again, a map is essential otherwise you can quickly get quite confused if not lost.

Depending on the type of riding you plan to do, the bike needs to have some degree of suspension. You can rent all types of bikes in Chamonix and the shop assistants are experts in their sport. It goes without saying that a helmet is essential and you will probably want some sort of padded body armour for the wild descent rides.

Road biking

Besides a helmet and a water bottle you will need a windproof jacket – while the ascents can be very hot, those fast descents will soon chill your body. Gloves are also a good idea, both for protection and warmth on the descents.

Rock climbing and bouldering

Harness, rock boots and chalk bag are the obvious requirements for rock climbing. All the routes described in this guide (except those on the Index) are fully bolted so there’s no need for nuts and friends, just a rack of quickdraws. Rope lengths, single or double, are noted for each crag. A helmet is strongly recommended. Bouldering is the simplest of sports (just rock boots and chalk required) but a pad seems de rigueur nowadays. A good spotter is also useful.

Via ferrata

In addition to a harness, it is essential to have a special via ferrata lanyard – a climbing sling is not adequate as a fall onto a regular sling is likely to break your back. A helmet is essential.

Taking your dog

Skip, Rifugio du Bonatti 1998–2013

Many people will come to Chamonix on a low-cost flight and therefore it’s likely Doggy will stay at home. However, now that pets can travel in Europe more easily, some people do drive to Chamonix for a long holiday and their furry friends come too.

There are important regulations on where you can take your dog and in the Family Walks descriptions I have noted whether dogs are welcome on the trails.

Dogs are not allowed at all in the following reserves:

 Aiguille Rouges Reserve

 Merlet Reserve

 Platé Reserve

 Carlaveyron Reserve

They are tolerated on a lead in the Bérard Reserve and at Loriaz.

However, you should be aware that if you take your dog and you see cattle or sheep grazing you should keep it on a lead. And if Fido is in tow, you’re far less likely to see any wildlife – not only his presence but also his odour will see to that.

On the other hand, you can take your cat anywhere you like.

My intrepid mountain cat, Zig