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ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Described by Ruskin as the ‘most noble cliff in Europe’, at 4478m the Matterhorn is neither the highest Alpine summit, nor the most difficult, but worldwide this peak represents the classic mountain. Even if people don't know its name, they've seen its shape replicated on anything from chocolate boxes to corporate adverts. Ask a child to draw a mountain and that's what they'll draw – a pointed pyramid reaching to the sky. The Matterhorn – or Monte Cervino as the Italians call it – represents what is inaccessible, beautiful, the spirit of the summit, the ultimate goal.
Many people aspire to climb it, and some succeed. However, the best views of the Matterhorn and its surrounding summits are to be had not from the flanks of the mountain but from the hillsides that face it. The Tour of the Matterhorn will take you to the most stunning viewpoints from which to marvel at this most unique summit.
To circumnavigate the peak involves quite a long route through the Swiss and Italian Alps. Three cultures will be visited: German-speaking Wallis Switzerland, French-speaking Valais Switzerland, and the Italian Valle d'Aosta. This is not simply a trek to view the Matterhorn; there are many more treats in store. Six valleys are crossed and more than 25 peaks surpassing 4000m will be seen, summits whose soaring buttresses and steep, brooding faces have inspired climbers and trekkers from all over the world.
It is worth taking the time to enjoy the unique aspects of the region, exploring the villages, the local specialities, the differences in architecture and farming. Each area has its own peculiarities, and these deserve to be discovered. The Tour of the Matterhorn enables the walker to immerse himself in the region in a way that is impossible for anyone who just passes through by car. This is a region of stark visual contrasts: high peaks, ice and snow buttresses glinting in the sun, their glaciers formed by unfathomable depths of ice; lush green meadows where cattle graze as they did centuries ago; deep wooded valleys dotted with small villages and towns, ranging from the most old-fashioned to the most modern Alpine resorts.
The Tour of the Matterhorn
The Tour of the Matterhorn was originally the idea of the Swiss organisation Valrando (Association Valaisanne de la Randonnée Pédestre). Following the 50th anniversary of the Tour du Mont Blanc (set up in 1952), the president of Valrando, Willy Felay, envisaged the Matterhorn Tour. This tour was seen as providing a liaison between the two neighbouring mountain regions of Valais and the Valle d'Aosta. The route was worked out with the help of Palmira Orsières, director of La Traccia, an organisation that – amongst other things – is responsible for walking in the Aosta Valley region.
The first view of the Matterhorn in Italy, on the trail leading to Breuil-Cervinia (Stage 6)
The communes encountered on the tour have committed to the waymarking and upkeep of the paths and to welcoming walkers who pass through. This tour is envisaged as bringing life to the villages on both sides of the mountains.
The Tour of the Matterhorn is regarded as a relatively ‘new’ tour, as it has been documented only in the last few years. However, the trek takes in many ancient trails which have linked the Swiss and Italian valleys together for centuries. On this trek the walker becomes a traveller again, crossing cols and frontiers that were used in the old days by porters, soldiers, peasants, traders, pilgrims and bandits. The trek is quite rigorous and weather conditions have a strong influence. The crossing of some passes requires glacier-travel techniques, and the high altitude traversed requires a good level of fitness.
This tour is considerably more demanding than the Tour du Mont Blanc but forms a good progression for those who have already done some Alpine hiking of this type. At 145km the Tour of the Matterhorn is long and should not be rushed. Those with limited time would do better to reduce their trek rather than try to complete the whole thing in a hurry. Ideas for shorter versions are given in the Short Walks section.
Here the tour is divided into seven stages. These are not daily stages, but logical stages, normally from one valley to another. There are usually several accommodation possibilities and hence various ways in which the stages can be divided up. If you choose to do the whole route you can expect to take about 10 days; if you have time you can always take longer. It is difficult to avoid a couple of half days, but in a trek this long that's probably no bad thing. If you choose to use all lift possibilities, do long days and to take the shortest options, the trek can be completed in seven days – but it seems a shame to rush it.
The Tour of the Matterhorn coincides with two other long-distance treks. From Zermatt to Arolla it follows the Walker's Haute Route Trail, and from Breuil-Cervinia to Grächen it takes the Tour of Monte Rosa. Those wishing to do these treks at some future date may wish to miss out these sections, but there are variations for some parts so doing the stages twice may give a chance to cover all options.
Whilst the treks in this region are becoming more popular they have not achieved the fame of the Tour du Mont Blanc, and are unlikely to do so, being rather more arduous and involving more complicated terrain. On many parts of the tour you will experience relative solitude and can expect to see plenty of wildlife.
So, where to start? Since it's a circular tour, theoretically it can be started anywhere along its length, but clearly some places are easier to get to. It is usually nice to start and finish somewhere accessible transport-wise, where you can leave excess gear, buy picnic food and celebrate at the end. To my mind it's good to do this tour with views of the Matterhorn at the start and finish, so the route is described from Zermatt. The French information recommends starting from St Niklaus or Gruben-Meiden, but do you really want to start and finish a trek when the main feature is out of sight?
Next decision – which direction to go in? It's generally done anticlockwise, and since I can't think of any reason not to go this way that's what I've described. It seems to work that way, and also means that the highest altitude comes at the end when you're fully acclimatised.
The Region
The Matterhorn is situated near to the Mischabel and Monte Rosa massifs in the Pennine Alps, bordering southern Switzerland and northern Italy. Extending eastwards from the Col Ferret to the Simplon Pass this huge range contains the largest concentration of peaks over 4000m in Europe. The Swiss–Italian frontier forms the Alpine watershed and the most grandiose summits are to be found here, their huge glaciers snaking down into the valleys, on the Swiss side flowing down to the Rhône, on the Italian side draining to the Po.
The enormous barrier of the Pennine Alps represents the pressure zone created when the African tectonic plate collided with the Continental plate. Mountains were forced up and consequent erosion has produced the incredibly spectacular scenery that exists today. Peaks such as Liskamm, the 10 summits of Monte Rosa, the Täschhorn, Dom and Weisshorn (to mention just a few), whilst slightly less lofty than their famous neighbour Mont Blanc, are at least equal in grandeur and splendour.
The Tour of the Matterhorn owes much of its variety and interest to the fact that it visits two distinct regions: the Swiss region of Valais/Wallis and the Italian Valle d'Aosta. Although these two regions are physically close and have a shared history of trade, agriculture and simple survival in this harsh mountain environment, there are many contrasts of culture, architecture, food, language and traditions. Passing from one country to the other you will be struck immediately by the differences in landscape, architecture and farming methods before you even hear any language spoken.
Taking a break before descending to Zinal (Stage 3)
Walking through the mountains and the valleys, and passing through the villages, will give you a chance to discover what makes each valley unique, as well as experiencing the common cultures that unite the region.
Ancient Passes
Many of the trails used by the Tour of the Matterhorn have been used for centuries for many different purposes. Before motorised transport it was often easier to go over the high mountain passes than to descend to the main valleys such as the Rhône and Aosta. Frequently the mountain valleys were rendered impassable by deep gorges, or were prone to rockfall or landslides. Whilst the high passes carried their own risks – such as bad weather, cold, exhaustion, and attack from marauders – they were usually more direct and less tortuous.
There were abundant reasons for wanting to travel from one valley to the next:
Trade: in times past people bartered goods rather than dealing in money. Goods that were needed in the Alps included salt and spices, so the mountain people would take their own goods to trade. The wines from the Aosta Valley were sent over to the Valais and Tarentaise by the so-called Route des Vins (which went from Chambave to the Rhône Valley, probably across the Theodul and Collon passes).Male ibex jostle for dominance on rocks near Trift
The farmers would take their cattle over into neighbouring valleys to graze as part of the transhumance method of farming.
People travelled surprisingly long distances for work; for example, much of the Alpine architecture in Switzerland is based on the work of Italian builders from the Valsesia region, near Alagna.
Sometimes people needed to migrate because they had too many enemies in their native valley, or conditions had made survival there untenable.
One very interesting fact that has emerged from the passage of populations over high passes is that in the Middle Ages the Alpine climate was certainly warmer by degrees than it is today. The Theodulpass, for example, would seem to have been a major route in Roman times, and given the artefacts found there must have been less glaciated than it is today. There have certainly been periods of warmer climate in the past.
Despite these warmer phases, other periods saw mini ice ages; and the vagaries of Alpine weather meant that any excursion into the hills brought with it a risk of bad weather, not to mention illness or even attack. These people really had to want to make the journey, and often not from choice; their lives depended on it.
History tantalises us with fascinating stories about these travels – fortunes lost, treasures found, lives risked. Now as we trek through these mountains, generally comfortable in our high-tech gear and with well-filled stomachs, it's interesting to try to imagine the trepidation that travellers hundreds of years ago would have felt before setting out on these highly risky ventures. The frequent presence of chapels and crosses en route attests to the need to put their lives in God's hands. Hence on several cols in the Alps – such as the Grand St Bernard, Petit St Bernard and Simplon – we find hospices, erected by religious people to provide safe haven for those poor souls in need of food, shelter or security whilst trying to get to the next valley.
Glaciers
Heading up the Haut Glacier d'Arolla en route to the Col Collon (Stage 5)
Glaciers and glaciated mountains are a major feature of the Tour of the Matterhorn, both in terms of the views enjoyed and the terrain encountered. The valleys have been carved out by the ice, and many people now come to the Alps to marvel at what remains of these huge frozen rivers.
THE THEODULPASS (3301m)
This pass is one of the most famous in the western Alps. In Roman times it was called ‘Silvius’, and it is documented as early as AD3.
In 1895, 54 coins dating from 2BC to AD4 were found just below the col, and these are now in an archaeological museum in Zermatt. It must certainly have been hotter and drier in those days, since artefacts attest to the passage of the col on foot and on horseback. There was a small settlement on the col providing provisions and guided passage. From the 5th century onwards winters became more rigorous and the glaciers began to expand. Commercial caravans abandoned the route, but from the 9th century the glaciers regressed and there was a return of activity, with several monastic orders settling on both sides of the massif. The Little Ice Age from the 16th century onwards led to colder conditions and the glaciers grew accordingly. Cols such as the Theodulpass became more and more difficult to cross.
The chapel en route to the Theodulpass, now dedicated to Italian Alpinist Franco Bontadini
The col's title dates from this time; it was named after Saint Theodul, who was present in the region around 1688. Would-be travellers regularly fell victim to severe weather whilst attempting this passage, be it from the cold, avalanches, or crevasses. In 1825 a merchant fell in a crevasse with his horse, allegedly taking 10,000 francs with him – an incentive for bounty hunters for years to come.
Horace Benedict de Saussure (famed as the main instigator of the first ascent of Mont Blanc) came this way, and at the col apparently found the remains of an old fort built in 1688 by the Comte de Savoie.
The 20th century saw conditions become easier on the col – in 1910 a herd of 34 cows successfully made the passage – but, nevertheless, care must be taken here.
Glaciers respond to climatic change. In cold periods with heavy snowfall, glaciers expand downwards, only to retreat in warm dry periods. In the course of the centuries the climate has changed more than once, influencing the life of the Alpine populations.
The Middle Ages were a time of relative warmth which favoured the colonisation of the Alps at increasingly high altitudes. Glaciers retreated considerably and artefacts found at now glaciated passes attest to the fact that much of this terrain was ice-free for many centuries. The 17th century saw the beginning of the Little Ice Age, a cold period of heavy snowfall which lasted three centuries and saw an impressive regain of territory by the glaciers. Little is known about the consequences, but they were certainly negative for the inhabitants of the Alps. The most significant phenomenon was the advance of the glaciers which buried many of the high pastures and caused panic among the local people. The ice was literally pushing up against their front doors, and they were moved to call the priests to exorcise these demonic forces.
The mid 19th century saw the start of the warm period that has continued, with occasional colder intervals, to this day. Whether we are now in a natural cycle, or whether the recent fast melting of the glaciers is due to the effects of modern civilisation, is still a moot point.
How to Use This Guide
This guide has resulted from several trips around the tour, plus years of walking in the region. However, no doubt some things along the route will have changed already; if you come across anything please let me know by sending an email or letter to Cicerone. Use this book as a tool to plan your trip. Once on the tour a map, compass and willingness to adapt to conditions are all essential; the book is not enough on its own.
For this guide the Tour of the Matterhorn has been divided into seven stages. These are not necessarily one-day stages, and may need two days or more. I have chosen to describe the route this way so as to give each individual the choice of how to plan the trek.
Each stage has an introduction, followed by the details for that stage:
starting and finishing points
altitudes, highpoint, distance in kilometres
time
maps needed
transport options
accommodation
extra information that may be pertinent.
Variants are also noted, and each stage also has escape routes briefly described along with transport options to regain the start point. The accommodation is noted by name, but details (phone numbers, fax numbers and Internet sites) are given in Appendix II.
Walking down to Arolla (Stage 4 link route)
Time for each stage is calculated roughly on the basis of climbing 300m every hour; the ascent time is halved for descent; where there are long flat sections these are calculated on a rate of 4km per hour. These times are given as a rough guide but should not be taken as anything other than that – this is not a challenge! Times are often noted on signposts in Switzerland, and may vary from those given in this guide. Equally you may find your own times do not match those given – after a day or so you'll have figured out your own rate of progress, so if there is a wild difference between your times and the times in this book, adjust your planning accordingly.
The distance of a stage is difficult to calculate as there are often many zigzags on the ground that are not shown on the map. The kilometre distance noted is the nearest I can get, but will not be exact.
Sketch maps accompany each stage. These are designed as a planning aid, and to show where the route goes. Relevant details have been noted on the maps but these are not a substitute for the real thing. When walking this route you need to take the relevant maps, and a compass, and know how to use them.
Route profiles are provided to give a rough idea of the ups and downs encountered along the way.
The section Short Walks suggests short variations of the trek, as well as some good walks from the main bases of Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia. You will find local guidebooks to local walks, and the tourist offices are always good sources for information on pleasant rest-day strolls or interesting explorations.
This book contains a fair amount of information that is not strictly relevant to the trek, but which provides background detail about the history and nature of the region. You may only choose to read these sections when stuck in a hut on a wet afternoon with no reading material other than dog-eared out-of-date Alpine Club magazines printed in a language you don't understand!
Safety and rescue and glacier travel are all covered in the guide; see Appendix V for information on the latter. The glaciers encountered on this trek are, however, relatively innocuous. You do need to rope up, and you do need crampons, but this is not major mountaineering.
The Appendices contain additional information: further reading, accommodation details, glossary of phrases and terms, tourist office and guides' office information. Do please appreciate that these numbers and Internet details were correct at the time of writing, but that details do change. If a number doesn't work, or an email comes flying back ‘undeliverable’ from cyber space, get on Google and do a search.
Haymaking at Jungu (Stage 2)
When to Go
The Tour of the Matterhorn crosses cols of over 3000m, where snow is likely to remain until well into June. The huts used on the trek generally do not open until late June or early July, so it is not advisable to set out before the summer Alpine season begins. However, later is not necessarily better as certain areas benefit from a coating of snow to disguise the horrors of denuded ski resorts, which are far more acceptable in their winter garb.
You have to decide if you plan to walk every part of the route, or whether you intend to take the occasional lift, for example from Breuil-Cervinia to Testa Grigia. This section of the trek is quite ugly when there is no snow, but such conditions do allow you to walk up to the slopes. When névé remains walking may be more difficult – either because the snow is hard and slippery, or because it's a hot, late afternoon, the snow has partially melted, and therefore doesn't hold your weight.
If you're planning to take lifts be sure to check their open season.
The best time to do this trek is therefore during this brief summer holiday season. The earlier you go the more flowers will be in bloom on the hillsides; the middle of the season sees the most holidaymakers in the Alps; the end is generally noted for beautiful autumn light, but can be prone to fresh snowfall above 3000m.
If in doubt call local tourist offices or the huts for up-to-date information on conditions.
How to Get There
Zermatt
By air
The nearest airports to the Tour of the Matterhorn are Zurich and Geneva.
From Britain Zurich is served by:
British Airways www.ba.com tel: 0844 4930787
Easyjet www.easyjet.com tel: 0870 600 0000
Swiss International www.swiss.com tel: 0845 601 0956
Swiss International also operates from the USA and most other airports worldwide.
Zurich airport is found on www.zurich-airport.com
Many airlines fly into Geneva from Britain:
British Airways www.ba.com tel: 0844 4930787
Easyjet www.easyjet.com tel: 0870 600 0000
jet2 www.jet2.com tel: 0870 737 8282
Swiss International www.swiss.com tel: 0845 601 0956
BmiBaby www.bmibaby.com tel: 0870 264 0224
From America: Swiss International (sharing with American Airlines), Continental and Lufthansa (sharing with United Airlines).
From Ireland: Aer Lingus www.aerlingus.com tel: +353 1 886 8844.
Geneva airport can be found on www.gva.ch tel: +41 22 717 71 11 info@gva.ch
Onward travel to Zermatt is best by train. The Swiss railway network is incredibly efficient; timetables and online ticket sales can be found at www.sbb.ch
By train
If you choose to travel out to Switzerland by train then you will not be disappointed by the service once there. It may be worth buying a Swiss rail pass; the Swiss Tourist Office in your home country will be able to advise (UK tel: 0207 734 1921). All the different passes are described in detail on www.myswissalps.com/swissrailpasses
The preferred mode of transport in Zermatt
A lovely grassy trail leads down to Rifugio Prarayer at the end of Stage 5
By car
If you drive to Switzerland you'll need to buy a motorway ‘vignette’ on entry to the country, which currently costs 40chf for the year. You cannot take the car to Zermatt, but must park at Täsch and take the train up to the town.
Bus
Eurolines offer a regular service from Britain and Ireland to Switzerland, serving both Geneva and Zurich. Whilst the journey is long the price is competitive: www.eurolines.com tel: 020 7730 8235.
Breuil-Cervinia
By air
The nearest airport is Turin, tel: +39.011.5676361/2 www.aeroportoditorino.it
Turin airport is served by:
Ryanair www.ryanair.com tel: 0871 246 0000
Easyjet www.easyjet.com tel: 0870 600 0000
British Airways www.ba.com tel: 0844 4930787
Coming to Italy from outside Europe the nearest airport is Milan.
By train
Turin is served by train and is on the railway route to Aosta. From there good bus services run up the valley to Breuil-Cervinia. There is no direct connection from Turin or Milan to Cervinia. To reach Cervinia you have to change bus at Chatillon. The bus stations are in the city and not at the airports.
By car
Driving in Italy is generally good fun so long as you have an adventurous spirit. The motorways usually charge tolls.
Bus
Eurolines offer a regular service from Britain and Ireland to Italy with stops at Turin and Aosta and Chatillon, which is at the bottom of the valley up to Cervinia. Whilst the journey is long the price is competitive: www.eurolines.com tel: 020 7730 8235.
From Zurich, Geneva or Turin airports you can reach any of the other towns encountered during the trek. In Switzerland the train is the best option for getting along the main valleys, then the yellow PTT buses give access to all but the remotest villages. These tend to meet up with the trains, so travel is exceptionally easy. Italy is a different story; here the bus seems to be the best option.
Accommodation
There are a host of possibilities for your stay in the region, ranging from hotels of all standards to gîtes to huts to campsites. In the summer season – July and August – there is a huge demand for accommodation, so advance booking is highly recommended (see Appendix II). Note that on a trek such as this it is important to get your provisions for the day before you set out in the morning; on some stages there is no guarantee that you will be able to buy food during the day.
Hotels
These range from 4-star luxury to no-star basic. Major towns such as Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia have many to choose from, whereas the small villages will just have a handful, usually in the 2-star or below category. In addition to rooms, some hotels also have a dormitory; this is particularly common in Switzerland. There may even be a kitchen where you can cook your own meals, but this is less usual. The local tourist offices will provide a list of hotels and may even make bookings for you.
Campsites
There are sites in most Alpine towns. Camping is generally not allowed in the valley outside of campsites. Ask the tourist office for details.
The rather grand Hotel Schwarzhorn (Stage 2)
Huts or refuges
Mountain huts vary greatly in the facilities they offer, from quite luxurious with showers and even rooms to the most basic with just a dormitory and a dining room. There are always toilets, and running cold water is almost guaranteed (although the exceptionally hot summer of 2003 did see a few isolated cases of dried-up water supplies). Huts high in the mountains may not have running water early in the morning when the source could be frozen, so it's wise to fill water bottles the previous evening. Most huts are open from late June to early September, and there will be a guardian in residence, who usually cooks an evening meal and provides breakfast. At a few huts you can take your own food, but you must make sure the guardian is happy with this. Quite frankly it is hardly worth the effort of carrying up food when a very good meal will be on offer for a reasonable price. Drinks – alcoholic and otherwise – are also sold.
In Italy there are strict laws about public water supplies and in some huts you may be told the tap water is not controlled – this means they cannot guarantee that it is clean.
Hut etiquette
We are privileged in the Alps to have a system of huts that enables us to walk just carrying small packs, knowing that at the end of each day we'll have somewhere to sleep and a good hot meal. It's really important that we treat the huts and their guardians with the respect that they deserve. I highly recommend that you book accommodation in advance, even if you just phone the night before; and if you are not going to show up do call to cancel. When you arrive at a hut make yourself known to the guardian and let him show you what to do. Each hut has its own system; some are very relaxed, others less so. The guardian will tell you where to leave your sac: sometimes you can take it to your room, sometimes not. He will ask you to take off your boots and show you where to put them, as well as where to leave crampons and trekking poles. You are expected to vacate your room by a certain time in the morning and to leave it as you found it; this generally means folding up blankets or quilts.
If you have particular dietary requirements tell the guardian when you arrive so he can prepare a suitable meal. Most huts do not have a huge variety of food available, so unless you really are a vegetarian it's best to eat whatever you are given. Huts do sell drinks, and sometimes you can run up a tab and pay for everything at the end of your stay. Many huts prefer that you settle the bill before going to bed. Remember that credit cards are not usually accepted, so take cash.
Although sometimes the guardian and friends may party til the small hours it's generally accepted that from 10pm everyone is in bed.
Most huts do not have road access, so everything has to be transported up by helicopter or on foot. Bear this in mind and take your own rubbish down.
Languages
The Matterhorn and associated peaks lie on the Swiss–Italian border. Whilst you will find that in the main centres of Breuil-Cervinia – and especially Zermatt – English is widely understood it is nevertheless worth making an effort to speak the local languages. Shopkeepers and hoteliers have realised that it serves them well to speak English, and most do to some extent. Not withstanding this, it is worth making the effort to learn a few basic words; there is a lot of pleasure to be gained by having a go at communicating in the local language. Generally people will meet you halfway and will respect your endeavours in the realm of international relations!
Viewed from the Höhbalmen trail above Zermatt the Matterhorn looks especially fine
Pleasant walking on dry glacier (Stage 5)
In the Swiss part of the walk you will hike in both German- and French-speaking Switzerland, and the languages do not really overlap. From Zermatt to the Meidpass or Forcletta (Stage 3) German (or more precisely Swiss-German) is spoken, then it changes to French. From the Col Collon onwards Italian is used, all the way back to the Theodulpass.
Some useful words are noted in the Glossary and Useful Terms (Appendix IV), and those relating to the weather can be especially useful if you do not manage to find a forecast in English.
Currencies
With the introduction of the Euro it has become very easy to travel around Europe, although some consider it to be a bit dull – gone are the heady days when you had to go armed with millions of Italian lire to buy a loaf of bread! In Switzerland, however, the Swiss franc remains the currency, but some cafés and supermarkets will accept Euros if that's all you have with you. The same applies to Swiss mountain huts, but don't expect to get a good rate of exchange. Change will generally be given in francs.
In the big towns credit cards are generally accepted and travellers' cheques can be cashed. There are also ATMs. However, bear in mind that there are really only two centres that fit these criteria on the trek: Breuil-Cervinia and Zermatt. In addition there are banks, as well as all other facilities, at Evolène, 3km off the route at Les Haudères, and at Grimentz in the Val d'Anniviers (Stage 4). Valpelline is probably too far from Prarayer to serve a similar purpose – you'd have to make a long detour to get there – unless bad weather has closed in.
Difficulty of the Trail
The Tour of the Matterhorn takes in non-glaciated and glaciated terrain. As glaciers go, the ones crossed on this trek are relatively gentle slopes, and the gear and experience needed is covered elsewhere in the book (see also Appendix V). The rest of the trek is generally waymarked. The trails are quite rough and rocky in places, and occasionally the steeper sections have been equipped with metal rungs and/or cables. These sections are short and not difficult, although in rain or snow they would be a bit slippery.
Maps
There is now a dedicated Tour of the Matterhorn map: Tour of the Matterhorn 1:50,000 Edition IG IVRN available at Wega bookshop in Zermatt. Other 1:50,000 maps: Carte Nationale de la Suisse 5006 Matterhorn Mischabel; Istituto Geografico Centrale 5 Cervino-Matterhorn e Monte Rosa.
1:25,000 maps: Carte Nationale de la Suisse 1328 Randa; 1308 St Niklaus; 1307 Vissoie; 1327 Evolène; 1347 Matterhorn; 1348 Zermatt; Istituto Geografico Centrale 108 Cervino Matterhorn, Breuil-Cervinia, Champoluc.
1:30,000 map: Istituto Geografico Centrale 115 La Valpelline, Valle di Ollomont, Valle di St Barthelemy. Note Although this map is 1:30,000 I have used it as a 1:25,000 map as there is no alternative.
Maps are available locally, or from:
The Map Shop
Freephone: 0800 085 40 80;
tel: 01684 593146 Fax: 01684 594559
e-mail: themapshop@btinternet.com
Stanfords
Tel: 0207 836 1321
Fax: O207 836 0189
e-mail:
customer.services@stanfords.co.uk
Footpaths and Waymarks
The Tour of the Matterhorn has been very well signed and publicised since its inauguration in 2002. To my horror, for a few months during its setting up large signs appeared along some paths, announcing that you were indeed on the Tour of the Matterhorn. Thankfully these have now disappeared and the trail has settled down. In Switzerland the paths are generally waymarked in red and white paint flashes, indicating that this is a long-distance trek. In Italy the waymarks are yellow.
You're unlikely to miss this turn-off en route to Perrucca-Vuillermoz (Stage 6)
However, do not expect simply to step onto the path and follow the paint flashes until the end of the tour. This would be reckless and, surely, part of the fun of hiking is to use the map and decide which route to take. There are quite often route options, or you may decide you'd like to include a nearby summit or visit an interesting village. Equally some path junctions are not signed – thank goodness. Having said that, if you plan to follow the main trail and the path you're on is very indistinct you should check to see it you haven't missed a turning. Although most of the trails for the Tour of the Matterhorn are well used, you do need to use a map. Fog and snow can occur at any time in the Alps, and at such times those friendly little paint flashes tend to disappear. It is important to try to stay on the path as the terrain ‘off piste’ can be very rough and difficult. In snow or bad visibility you will need to use map and compass (and maybe GPS if that's what you're used to).
Swiss signposts are always very precise
The Italian maps often number footpaths, and whilst these may correspond to numbers painted on the trail signs, do not bank on it. It's far better to use the map to see which direction a path should take rather than trying to blindly follow unreliable numbers on the ground.
Lifts and Buses
There are several possibilities for using a variety of lifts during the Tour of the Matterhorn. These can be very useful for several reasons:
If you are pressed for time using a lift could cut off several hours of walking and enable you to cover more ground that day.
If knees are hurting, taking a lift down could make all the difference to the rest of the trip.
Lifts are inevitably in ski areas, some of which look a lot better in winter when covered in snow. It's a bit like removing clothes from a body that is best left dressed – inadvisable to say the least! So to avoid walking up bulldozed pistes it may be a good idea to take the lift – the ascent from Plan Maison to the Theodulpass springs to mind.
However, it is important to bear in mind that the lifts have a very limited open season in the summer. Typically this may be from the first week of July to the first week of September, so if these are an integral part of your trek planning you need to be absolutely sure they will be running. If they are just an option this is less crucial. Nevertheless, do bear in mind that once you've decided to take a lift, finding it closed can be a very traumatic experience! It's worth knowing that some lifts have a timetable in the summer (rather than running continuously), and they tend to close for lunch.
Buses are a useful means of escape if you have to abandon the trek for some reason, or if you only plan to do part of it. Most of the bus services mentioned here are year-round regular services, but the frequency can change radically outside the high summer season. Tourist offices will have details.
This flat rock below Forcletta provides a pleasant resting place (Stage 3 variant)
Emergencies and Rescue
Rescue telephone numbers: Europe 112; Switzerland 144; Italy 118
Whilst trekking should not be a high-risk activity there are increasing numbers of accidents, even on non-glaciated terrain. This is partly because more and more people walk in the Alps, but it is also a factor of the adventurous terrain that is being accessed by footpaths. Glaciated terrain brings its own objective hazards, but these are minimal on the gentle slopes encountered on the Tour of the Matterhorn. Nevertheless, for all Alpine walking you need to consider emergencies that could arise. If you are well equipped and prepared you will hopefully avoid, or at least know how to deal with, most situations.
Note There are no pharmacy facilities between Zermatt and Cervinia (at least seven days' walking).
First aid
All walkers should carry a basic first aid kit in their rucksacks. However, although the trek described here is multi-day, there are opportunities to get medical supplies if needed or to abandon the route for a few days. In addition there are good and reliable rescue services in the Swiss and Italian regions covered, so the first aid kit can be kept to the essentials:
plasters
painkillers
aspirin
treatment for diarrhoea
antiseptic cream
crêpe bandage
fly repellent
antihistamine cream
scissors
tweezers
antiseptic wipes
wound dressing
blister kit
latex gloves
triangular bandage (or use a scarf or bandana)
bivvy bag or space blanket (shiny foil)
This kit allows treatment of most emergencies that could be encountered during this walk. Resourcefulness is most useful: for example, a trekking pole can be used to splint an injured arm or leg. However, if a problem becomes serious then you should be prepared to leave the trek. It is not recommended to continue if, for example, you have an upset stomach which prevents you eating properly or risks leading to dehydration, or some form of infection, such as a blister that has become ulcerated. Continuing to hike day after day with an ongoing condition could cause long-term damage.
Potential problems on the hill
As well as carrying the gear it's also crucial to know what to do in the event of incidents that can happen during mountain walks:
Heart attack Everyone should have basic first aid knowledge. Treatment of a heart attack victim goes beyond the scope of this guide but should be learnt at a first aid centre. This is knowledge that hopefully is never used, hence the need for regular refresher courses.
Hypothermia If you are walking in the summer months you would not expect to be at risk of hypothermia, which is generally associated with winter expeditions and high-altitude mountaineering. However, there are a surprising number of incidences of hypothermia each summer in the non-glaciated Alps. In addition, on the Tour of the Matterhorn you are flirting with the high mountains and attaining altitudes of nearly 3500m. In classic summer hypothermia cases the victim becomes very hot and consequently sweaty whilst walking uphill, then cools very quickly, exacerbated by wind chill and tiredness. The same situation can arise during bad weather, when snow is frequent above 2000m even in the summer. The victim's core body temperature drops slightly, and the body's response is to cut off circulation to the outer extremities. Hands and feet become very cold; the victim starts to shiver and to become irrational, unable to make basic decisions such as stopping to eat and put on warm clothes. Eventually a comatose state is reached, and death will follow quickly.
The best action to take against hypothermia is to avoid it in the first place. When the summit is reached or the wind gets up, put on an extra layer straight away; don't hesitate to change your planned route if necessary. The symptoms of impending hypothermia (sometimes referred to as exposure in the early stages) should be recognised and dealt with as soon as possible: give the victim warm drinks and food and put on clothing; a hat will prevent considerable heat loss. If feasible the walk should be cut short to get the victim down to the valley for warmth and rest. If the situation has already become more serious, with the victim displaying irrational and aggressive behaviour, it is imperative to act quickly. Once the stage of coma is reached the rescue service must be called as the group cannot move the victim themselves. At this stage the victim must be kept warm, insulated from the ground as well as from the elements, and not moved.
Altitude sickness It is unlikely that true altitude sickness will be encountered on the Tour of the Matterhorn as mostly the trail remains around and below 3000m. Whilst people may sometimes think they are feeling the effects of the high altitude, altitude sickness is really only encountered above 3000m. However, those coming from sea level will certainly feel breathless the first day or so hiking in the Alps. To what extent this is due to the thinner air and to what extent to the inclines is a moot issue. Were you to start immediately with an ascent of the Breithorn it is very likely that you would feel bad, and serious sickness is a possibility. When going high be sure to drink plenty of water and, if necessary, take small doses of aspirin for headaches. Remember to keep to lower altitudes for the first days of a holiday.
Summit of the Breithorn (Stage 7 variant)
Falls The outcome of a fall can range from minor scrapes and grazes to sprained and broken limbs, or worse. The former are easily treated with dressings and antiseptic creams. Sprains can be strapped up effectively, and the victim can usually make his way down with help. Broken limbs can be splinted using a trekking pole, but whether the victim can walk down depends on where the break is and the severity of it: if in doubt call the rescue service. Anything worse requires help from professionals; back and head injuries are potentially very serious so the victim should not be moved (unless by staying where they are further injury is likely) and the rescue service should be called immediately.
Rescue
Should the unthinkable happen and you do have to call the rescue services, it's reassuring to know that compared to many mountain areas the Alps are relatively friendly in an accident situation. Given good weather you can expect the mountain rescue to arrive within a short time of your call. In Switzerland and Italy there are professional rescue services, using trained rescue personnel, doctors and Guides. They generally operate with helicopters from a base very near town. Only in bad weather will the helicopter be unable to fly, in which case a rescue party might be sent on foot; this could take a lot longer.
However, calling the rescue should be seen as a last resort. Since mobile phones have become part of the walker's kit list the rescue get called out for the most trivial of reasons, ranging from tiredness to being late for a restaurant reservation. It should be remembered that having the back-up of such a service is a privilege not to be abused.
In the case of a genuine need for rescue use the following procedure.
Call the rescue services on 112 or: Italy Aosta Valley 118 Switzerland Valais 144
Have the following information ready:Your name and mobile phone numberThe nature of the accidentThe number of victimsThe seriousness of the victim's injuries – is he conscious?Your position, itinerary, altitudeThe time of the accidentThe current weather conditions – wind and visibility
Prepare for the arrival of the helicopter team by putting the injured person somewhere accessible. This will not always be possible but, if feasible, find a flat place where the helicopter can land. Do not move an unconscious patient or one who may have back injuries. In all events secure the victim and also all equipment. Keep everyone else away from this area; the helicopter will generate a lot of wind when it arrives.
Make your position visible, using brightly coloured items such as bivvy bags or rucksacks.
When the helicopter appears raise your arms in the air to make a Y sign to indicate that you are the people who called for rescue.
Helicopter flying over the Matterhorn
Once the team have arrived they will take over. The rescue services in the Alps speak English, so this is probably not the time to try out those new German/French/Italian phrases unless you are reasonably proficient.
It is recommended that in the Alps walkers carry a mobile phone, but only to be used to call the rescue when it is genuinely necessary. There is telephone network cover in much of the Alps, but not everywhere. The telephone does not work over a large part of the Italian Tour of the Matterhorn.
It is vital to know your own number as the rescue service will ask for it.
Insurance
Rescue is not free in Switzerland and Italy, neither are hospital and medical costs. An accident could prove very costly so you need to be insured for rescue from the hill, medical costs and repatriation. You can get this in your own country before leaving to trek. Make sure the insurance company knows you will be trekking on terrain that is both glaciated and non-glaciated, and for the former you may use a rope. You will not be climbing. If you cannot get appropriate cover at home you can get insurance for the trek period from certain tourist offices – certainly from Zermatt.
Equipment
For the Tour of the Matterhorn you need to be equipped for regular summer Alpine trekking, but with additional gear for glacier crossings. This can add a significant amount of weight to your sac. If you feel this is too much to carry over the whole trek then consider taking a Guide for the two glaciated sections; the Guide will bring the rope and glacier-travel gear, and the most you will need is a pair of lightweight crampons (see Guided Treks, p44).
Clothing The weather can range from very hot to very cold with everything in between. Normal temperatures at 2000m are about 10–15°C in the day; 0°C is usually between 3000m and 3500m. However, during bad weather or storms the temperature can plummet, and snow can fall as low as 1500m at any time during the summer. Wind will make the conditions feel even colder, so you need to be prepared for all eventualities. Layers are better than padded or thick garments, and clothes next to the skin should be moisture-wicking and quick-drying – leave the cotton T-shirts at home. Life in the hills should be seen as a different experience to your normal home life so embrace the simplicity of it and accept that you may well be wearing the same clothes for days at a time. In this way you can keep your sac weight acceptable – nothing spoils a good walk more than having unwanted kilos piled on your back.
Waterproofs are essential, and a waterproof cover for your sac is a good idea. Ankle-high gaiters are the coolest for summer, and are just for use on the glaciers to keep the snow out of your boots. Gloves and fleece hat will complete the cold-weather ensemble.
The rucksack does not need to be huge, especially if you're planning on using huts. However, it does need to be comfortable, and for trekking it's best to have a sac with a padded hip-belt.
Boots can be lightweight so long as they take crampons. The sole is hugely important – it's amazing how a worn sole affects your grip on all sorts of terrain.
Instep crampons are a lightweight alternative for this type of trek
Assuming the weather will be mainly sunny you need to go prepared. At altitude those UV rays are that much stronger as you're higher up and there is less pollution to protect you. A sunhat, sunglasses and suncream are definitely called for.
Sheet sleeping bags are highly recommended for huts (and are a requirement in Italian huts).
Glacier gear Glacier travel involves being roped up and having the necessary gear to get you or someone else out of a crevasse. Crampons are generally needed to walk on glaciers, but it may not be deemed necessary to have an ice axe each – one in the group may suffice. If you do not plan to ascend any peaks a pair of instep crampons is usually adequate for the Tour of the Matterhorn. These are considerably smaller than normal crampons and can be attached to all footwear.
First aid kit
Trekking poles
Water bottle
Snacks/picnic for the day
Camera
Compass
Maps
Glacier Travel
Roped up near the top of the Haut Glacier d'Arolla (Stage 5).
Glaciers introduce a whole new dimension to walking, notably that of the dangers of crevasses and the need to use crampons and possibly an ice axe. With the right equipment and, far more importantly, the right knowledge, these dangers can be reduced to an acceptable level. This knowledge can be gained in part by reading textbooks, but really there is no substitute for the real thing, either by going with experienced friends or by paying for professional instruction by qualified Guides. It is essential that you are trained in glacier travel before venturing onto glaciers during this trek (see Appendix V).
Glacier-travel guidelines
There are two types of glacier conditions:
Dry glacier – when the glacier has no fresh snow cover and is purely ice; all crevasses can be seen
Wet glacier – when fresh snow lies on the ice and hides some or all of the crevasses.
