Читать книгу The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Part IV - Centerfire Rifles - J B Wood - Страница 8

Tools

Countless firearms, old and new, bear the marks, burrs, and gouges that are the result of using the wrong tools for taking them apart. In the interest of preventing this sort of thing, I am including here a group of tools that are the best types for the disassembly of rifles. Except for the few shop-made tools for special purposes, all of those shown here are available from one of these sources.

Brownells Inc.200 S. Front St.Montezuma, Iowa 50171 B-Square CompanyP.O. Box 11281Fort Worth, Texas 76109

General Instructions:

Screwdrivers: Always be sure the blade of the screwdriver exactly fits the slot in the screw head, both in thickness and in width. If you don't have one that fits, grind or file the tip until it does. You may ruin a few screwdrivers, but better them than the screws on a fine rifle.

Slave pins: There are several references in this book to slave pins, and some non-gunsmith readers may not be familiar with the term. A slave pin is simply a short length of rod stock (in some cases, a section of a nail will do) which is used to keep two parts, or a part and a spring, together during reassembly. The slave pin must be slightly smaller in diameter than the hole in the part, so it will push out easily as the original pin is driven in to retain the part. When making a slave pin, its length should be slightly less than the width of the part in which it is being used, and the ends of the pin should be rounded or beveled.

Sights: Nearly all dovetail-mounted sights are drifted out toward the right, using a nylon, aluminum, or brass drift punch.

1. The tiniest of these fine German instrument screwdrivers from Brownells is too small for most gun work, but you'll see the rest of them used frequently throughout the book. There are many tight places where these will come in handy.

2. When a larger screwdriver is needed, this set from Brownells covers a wide range of blade sizes and also has Phillips- and Allen-type inserts. The tips are held in place by a strong magnet, yet are easily changed. These tips are very hard. W ith enough force you might manage to break one, but they'll never bend.

3. You should have at least one good pair of bent sharp-nosed pliers. These, from Brownells, have a box joint and smooth inner faces to help prevent marring.

4. For heavier gripping, these Bernard parallel-jaw pliers from Brownells have smooth-faced jaw-pieces of unhardened steel to prevent marring of parts.

5. For situations where a non-marring rap is needed, this hammer from Brownells is ideal. It is shown with nylon faces on the head, but other faces of plastic and brass are also available. All are easily replaceable.

6. For drifting out pins, these small all-metal hammers from B-Square are the best I've seen. Two sizes (weights) are available and they're well worth the modest cost.

7. For situations where reach and accessibility are beyond the capabilities of sharp-nosed pliers, a pair of large sharp-nosed forceps (tweezers) will be invaluable. From Brownells.

8. One of the most-used tools in my shop is this nylon-tipped drift punch, shown with an optional brass tip in place on the handle. It has a steel pin inside the nylon tip for strength. From Brownells, and absolutely essential.

9. A good set of drift punches will prevent a lot of marred pins. These, from Brownells, are made by Mayhew. The tapered punches at the right are for starting pins, the others for pushing them through. Two sizes are available—4 inches or 6 inches.

10. These punches by Mayhew are designed specifically for roll pins and have a projection at the center of the tip to fit the hollow center of a roll pin, driving it out without deformation of the ends. From Brownells.

11. Some of the necessary tools are easily made in the shop. These non-marring drift punches were made from three sizes of welder's brazing rod.

12. This heavy wrench from Brownells is designed specifically for removal of the barrel nut in Remington Model 742 and Model 760 rifles. It's a quality tool of 01 steel, hardened to Rockwell C 46–48.

13. Most Remington centerfire rifles have the extractor mounted inside the front of the bolt by a tiny rivet. This special tool from B-Square will set these rivets with a minimum of trouble.

14. These extractor pliers are used in both the removal and replacement of Mauser or Springfield-type extractors, making a difficult job much easier. From Brownells.

15. These wrenches are designed for removal of the piston nut in the .30 U.S. Carbine. The tool at the right is the original military type with three lugs, and the one at the left is a double-end type, to fit both the military guns and the two-slot nut found on some commercial civilian Carbines. These wrenches are available from several military surplus and commercial sources.

16. Without this tool, removal of the firing pin, ejector and extractor from the 30 U.S. Carbine is a tedious job. It is available from military surplus sources.

17. This combination tool for the U.S. M-1 rifle (Garand) has provisions for cleaning the chamber, installing the extractor and ejector in the bolt, a screwdriver, and other features. A completely-equipped Garand has one of these in the storage trap in the buttstock. They are available from military surplus sources.